If you built a house then I think you`ve got what it takes to at least get the camper to the point where you can use it a few more years, one way or another. Just throwing your arms up in the air and totaling it would be hard to accept. Perhaps putting down a new layer of plywood and linoleum as others suggested would buy you a few years, after of course fixing the leak and getting everything as dry as possible. Good luck in your task.
The 2-part wood hardener mentioned above is dandy stuff - specifically made to "stop rot" (also think that may be the brand name of one of these products. You scrape out the worst of the rotten wood, mix this stuff up and use a putty knife. Basically an epoxy-type project. It's not pretty when it's done, but you're gonna cover it anyway. Sounds like you have a good size area to do, so plan on spending several $$$. It's not inexpensive, but will save you many hours of dismantling and may let you accomplish what you need to with less work and probably less $$ in the long run. Suggest you make a Lowe's or Home Depot run and check this out before you go any further. Good luck and let us know how the project progresses - don't give up.
2007 ROO 23SS
2003 F-150 Super Crew with stabilizers and Prodigy
Sam, World's Best Yellow Camping Lab
7 "stay-at-home" K-9s
I had a dealer tell me not to worry about it. He said "What if the wood gets wet and rots, the foam is the strength. The wood just gives you something to hold bolts and screws. Just move over and put another screw. It will dry out and be fine. I never seen foam rot." Gosh, I said what if there is no wood and you step on it there and go right through the floor, or the bolts pull through and the wall seperates? I left as fast as I could. I understand the reason for such construction, but gosh, can't they use something besides luan that doesn't melt when it gets wet.
We used to use stuff called "Git Rot" on wooden boats or for the wood forms in Fiberglas boats. Herr Weasel had listed a link for modern stuff doing the same thing.
-- Chuck
'06 Roo 23SS behind '07 Expedition out of Cleveland Our Photo pages
I completely removed and replaced all of the floor from the nose to the axles in our Trail Lite Bantam last winter. First thing that I did was contact the factory and talk to one of the engineers. He sent me a floor plan for the camper that I used to plan the repair. I welded 1 1/2" aluminum tubes on 13" centers to the factory alum tube that the walls sit on. Then I used a couple of jacks to get enought room to slip 4 x 8 sheets of fiberglass between the frame and the alum tubes that I had welded in. For insulation I used the pink styrofoam found at any Home Depot, Lowes etc. I covered it all with 3/8" plywood screwed down with stainless steel screws. Forgot to say that I also installed 2 x 4 blocking between the aluminum tubes wherever I thought that it was required.
The floor has almost no give in it when it is walked upon now.
Can't really say how long it took me to do as I worked on it whenever I had a little time. Mostly an hour here, then maybe 2 or 3 days later another hour. All together I spent roughly $500 for all the materials that I used, but I have been told that I tend to over-do things when I build them. It was not that bad of a job once I got started. The hardest part for me was getting the courage to start cutting into the floor.
We haven't given up YET! We have decided to check out the two part epoxy system. We did find that CPES will melt the Styrofoam under the luan. So we are discussing other options. Looking for a product that will not melt the Styrofoam and then we will put in a laminate floor. We believe this is our best option and we hope to get a few more years out of it. After more exploring, we have found that the back roof seam leaked above the bathroom. This too will also have to be repaired. Our ideas are if we can get a few years out of this camper, we will be able to buy a new one at a later date. Thanks for all your advice and keep them coming, you all have given us hope and we appreciate that immensely. HAVE A GREAT THANKSGIVING!
Roy and Sandra Crockett
2001 Jayco Kiwi 23b
? Tow Vehicle
Maybe you could use a slow drying epoxy on the floor. The slow dry would allow it to soak in to the rotted wood before it hardens. Epoxy does not melt foam, but I would do a test before a major application. It has to be warm enough for the epoxy to harden, and be sure to mix it correctly. Nothing worse than applying epoxy and having it not harden.
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