Turbo Diesel Dude wrote: Take up one more link on your WD chain. I have to do either the three link or two depending on how my TT is loaded in order to smooth it out. JMHO This should settle down your front end with some more weight on it.
Does this mean a tighter fit or looser fit? If I read correctly that would mean I would have two chains less, Wouldn't that put more weight on the front?
You could also tilt the hitch head back to put more pressure on the WD bars. Is the ball tilted at all now?
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H2oSprt wrote: Like the subject says my truck is rocking in the front like it needs new shocks. It's a fairly light trailer (Dry 4300 GVWR 7200) for my 2500hd truck so I'm not over weighted. I don't want to go out a just buy shocks as it only does this with the trailer in tow.
I this see in your signature: 04 K2500 HD, 4.1, CC, SB, 6.0
If you are using the OEM receiver then you have most likely found the culprit for the porpoising. I have the exact same truck (only 2WD) and experienced the same thing. I swapped my hitch for a Curt Magnum V receiver and eliminated 90% of the porpoising. There have been many discussions here over the years regarding the receiver on these GM trucks. The long and short is the receiver relies almost entirely on the bumper for vertical support. This introduces a lot of flex and results in the ride you're experiencing.
As to the shocks. Again, if you have OEM's go ahead and replace them because they are done. My truck only has 54,000 miles, but I replaced them with Monroe Reflex shocks and WOW what a difference. When I removed the OEM shocks I could compress them by hand and they never rebounded. They were completely toast.
So, in essence you most likely have 2 problems that are entirely related to OEM equipment. It is definitely possible you don't have your hitch properly adjusted, but I know from my experience I had my hitch setup perfectly and still had the porpoising. After replacing the receiver with the exact same WD hitch setup the porpoising was gone.
H2oSprt wrote: Does this mean a tighter fit or looser fit? If I read correctly that would mean I would have two chains less, Wouldn't that put more weight on the front?
Be careful with just yanking up the bars (fewer links under tension). As a general rule, round bar style WD hitches should be set with the bars parallel to the trailer frame. Trunion style bars should ride with the tips at a slightly downward angle. If you cannot get your weight properly adjust with the bars at the correct angle, then you need to look at tilting the head back. This is done using washers on older systems or newer systems have serrated washers on the bolts. Basically all this does is start the bars at a more downward angle, so when you pull them up into position that are transmitting more torque on the receiver.
Be sure to check my other post on your GM receiver.
Also, with your truck you will not be able to get equal drop between front and rear. The best you can do is to return the front fenders to unloaded ride height. The GM's have a bump stop that is always in contact with the lower control arm and are not easily compressed by a WD hitch.
Some porpoising is the nature of the beast. When a TT starts to rock back and forth - which it does easily since the axles are in the center - the only thing stopping it is the truck. However, the TT also has a lot of leverage on the truck (from the ball to the TV rear axle) so the truck porpoises too.
You'll never get rid of it, but you can make it better or worse.
First, get your tongue where it should be. We like 15% of actual loaded TT weight.
Second, adjust the W/D bars so both the front and rear axles of the truck carry the load of the hitch. This is incredibly easy to do with a Hensely/ProPride hitch where the adjustment is done with a simple turn of a screw. It's amazing how 1 turn of the W/D tension on the HA can turn a bucking bronc into a decent ride.
Hint: my experience is that I always needed to increase the tension on the W/D bars.
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On my 2500HD, I put bigger wheels and tires on the truck. I put the 2" leveling kit on the front end and the truck was perfectly balanced. I hooked up the trailer and I experienced porposing on the 101 fwy north of L.A. It's really SUCKED! I didn't have that problem before.
So, I adjusted the hitch and added the Firestone "Air Springs" on my truck. Made all the difference in the world. I really load up the bed of my truck and pull a heavy trailer. The "Air Springs" (aka: air bags) level out the truck and no porpoising at all. Really a nice ride.
As mentioned, you need more weight transferred to the front end. Either less links under load or tilting the hitch head toward the ground a couple ticks will do it. Just need to keep those bars parallel or pointing toward the ground.
Follow the set up instructions linked already.
Once the hitch is dial in and you still get the porpoising, I'd look at the factory receiver replacement as mentioned.
Your trailer isn't that heavy but you never know where the weak link until you start eliminating elements.
the less links between the bars and the frailer frame the highter the bars are, the more weight is sent forward to the front axle. fry to have at least 6 links, but never less then 5 or it can bent things when you turn (sharp turns like at a light).
Adam-12 wrote: On my 2500HD, I put bigger wheels and tires on the truck. I put the 2" leveling kit on the front end and the truck was perfectly balanced. I hooked up the trailer and I experienced porposing on the 101 fwy north of L.A. It's really SUCKED! I didn't have that problem before.
So, I adjusted the hitch and added the Firestone "Air Springs" on my truck. Made all the difference in the world. I really load up the bed of my truck and pull a heavy trailer. The "Air Springs" (aka: air bags) level out the truck and no porpoising at all. Really a nice ride.
We've got the same truck with the same air springs pulling a similar weight TT. Tweaking the air bags and W/D bar tension only goes so far.
When you get to the northern latitudes with frost heaves or way up north on the primitive (dirt & gravel) roads no amount of futzing will control the porpoising.
You need more tongue weight if your shocks are good!!
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