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RE: Batteries overcharging
so many things to learn and remember,, scares me to death!
JanTx,
Actually, learning about your coach is kind of fun. You simply start with the basics and go as deep into what you want to know as you want. For instance, The "house battery(ies)(if you have more than one)are what powers up about 98% of the inside of your coach. That is, just about everything with the exception of the TV, VCR-DVD player, and, the Microwave. Then, in order to power up those, you need 110VAC power. You'll get that power from one of three sourses. One, shore power, two, generator, or three, an "Inverter" that converts 12VDC battery power to, 110VAC power.
Now, this is where most people simply don't go any further in obtaining knowledge. If folks would simply take the time when they purchase a new coach, or new to them I should say, and learn about how their system works. That is, how are my 12V or, 6V golf cart batteries charged? How are my engine batteries charged? Do both the house and engine batteries charge together?
What you accomplish is, not only learning and knowing how your system(s) work but, also, a good possibility of how to analyze them, if something should be acting up or, not working at all. Most of this stuff is not all that hard on RVs to comprehend. All it takes is a little time and, sometimes some coaching for explanation in case you run up against a stumbling block.
Scott
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05/22/13 02:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Batteries overcharging
Well Bob,
if your rig is a diesel, about 99.9% of them have inverters, NOT CONVERTERS, and, many of them are Inverter/Chargers so, you could be having an issue with that system. Now, if your coach is a gas unit, about 99.9% of them, come with Converters, not Inverters!
Fire Up
I beg to differ!
I think that MANY,(MOST?), diesel coaches have a CONVERTER in their INVERTER/3 stage battery CHARGER.
My Freedom 20 INVERTER/CHARGER is also a CONVERTER.
Here's a link to my Freedom 20 manual:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CDEQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.xantrex.com%2Fdocuments%2FDiscontinued-Products%2FFreedom%2520series%25201.pdf&ei=8vOcUbfsMKTgyQGc_IGoAQ&usg=AFQjCNEpd-ghhONSAiIWxw8_5R9taIWcXw&sig2=xpe7W9EKXVRXcr1u7EUnvQ&bvm=bv.46751780,d.aWM
See page 4, "Introduction".
Mel
'96 Safari
Mel,
Well Sir, you are correct in the fact that there IS a converter "inside" your INVERTER. While both of us are correct, my statement simply states that the primary mechanism for other than battery operation is, either a CONVERTER, usually supplied with a gas coach or an INVERTER, usually supplied with a diesel coach. Now, I don't work on these coaches day in and day out and, do not see or learn about what's new as todays coaches are sent out from the factory. My experience is from owning (4) motor homes to date. We've had (2) Class Cs, and (2) Class As. Both the class Cs and one of the As were gas units and for primary electrical operations inside the them, was a CONVERTER and NO INVERTER.
But for our present coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon, 36GD with the 330 CAT, it comes with a Dimensions 2000 Watt INVERTER/CHARGER. Now, I've read up on mine a few times and, while I can't recall, it might state in it's specs that it too has a "Converter" built into it. I'll check into that so I know before I state anything I might regret. Thanks
Scott
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05/22/13 11:37am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Looking for suggestions on a Diesel Pusher
Supercub,
Our rig is probably right along the lines of what you're looking for. It's an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 C-7 CAT and, the Allison MH3000 trans. Itasca/Winne is a great coach to own, minimal problems, and great customer service with both Winne/Itasca and, Freightliner Customer Service. I've used them both a few times since we purchased this coach just over 2 years ago. They both have been more than helpful.
As stated, it's Freightliner chassis and, a good one at that. The Horizon was the top of the line for Itasca of that year. The Meridian was one model down from it. I'd recommend the Horizon due to many features that come with that model that you won't find on the next ones down. One very, very important one is the Horizon, for the most part, comes with a "slide out generator". That is substantially important if and when, any maintenance is needed and or repairs.
The interior lighting is more exquisite on the Horizons than the lower units. There's more user friendly equipment for driver info on the dash etc. Now, again, ours is the '04 year and we love it. It's a full body paint unit and it has a fiberglass roof. Both of those were seriously important to me as I do all the maintenance on, in, under, inside and around this coach. I suspect you can pickup one like ours with minimal mileage easily for the price range you're in. Good luck.
Scott
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05/22/13 10:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Batteries overcharging
Well Bob,
Let's start out with, what kind of motor home do you have? What kind of and, how many house batteries and, engine do you have? You see, if your rig is a diesel, about 99.9% of them have inverters, NOT CONVERTERS, and, many of them are Inverter/Chargers so, you could be having an issue with that system. Now, if your coach is a gas unit, about 99.9% of them, come with Converters, not Inverters!
So, we need more info on your system before we can give an accurate assessment of a possible solution to your issues.
Scott
P.S. On edit, I didn't know the question has already been asked, sorry.
Scott
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05/22/13 10:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cleaning Fiberglass Roof
Roybuck,
When we purchased our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT over two years ago, I could tell the roof had never been thoroughly cleaned. Well, I knew it was going to be a chore so, I dove into it with both feet. I first washed it with soap and water, and, "barkeepers friend". Now, it came out nice and clean but, what was left on the roof was, globs and globs of silicone and other sealants used by installers for various components on the roof.
It's a tough job to get all that stuff off. I had to actually scrape all of it off with a steel, stiff bladed putty knife. Then came the work. I got my Dewalt polishing machine (the kind that are used for rubbing out paint jobs) and, some cutting compound and went at it. Well, three days later, on and off of course in work time frames, it looks like the pictures below.
Now, most folks would not go through the effort involved to get their roof looking like mine. It's a preference thing. I don't mind. The water, dirt, and even dust just slides right off now. Flies come in for a landing and run right off the runway.;) Now, about once every couple of months, a little rinse, a brief wipe down and, it's spotless. Some might even think I'm a bit "eccentric" for doing that much work on just a "roof". Well, that's ok, it's my roof. I'm not asking anyone to do the same for theirs.
So, to answer your question, yep, some serious wash down with something like Barkeepers Friend, and, if you want good protection, a rub out and, some wax. I've used various auto waxes up there and so far, as I've known for years, most don't last so, it gets waxed about every three months. And no, I will not put any "floor wax" up there.
Scott
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05/21/13 10:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What do you DIY'ers use to jack and secure your rig?
Well,
Everyone's got their opinion on whether or not to climb under a rig that's only being supported by it's own leveling jacks. I've done it for years. Yep, I know, you're trusting all the hydraulics of the jack system. It's a personal preference thing for me. I do use two, 4" x 14" x 14" blocks under each jack though. I place the blocks under jack pads, which are only about an inch away, then I release the air in the bags. The rig will drop automatically down on to the blocks.
From that point on, there's enough extension in the jacks to raise all six tires off the ground. I can then do what whatever work's needed, brake inspections, wheel polishing, oil changing, trans oil changing (although since the introduction of Transynd, no need for another 95K miles, yahoo), and more. Someday I'll get some large Jack stands for use under there. But, until then, it's as stable as a rock and, level as possible.
Scott
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05/20/13 02:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: DIY oil change - questions
There are numerous types of drain pans available from the commercial vehicle parts houses. Most have built in pour spouts for transferring your used oil to smaller containers for disposal.
NAPA may be a good source, but you don't usually find them at Wal-Mart.
Roger that. I use what I think is a 6 gallon drain pan and while it does get kind of full, it does the trick just fine. I have a five gallon Home Depot pail with a lid on it that I transfer it into. Yep, it's a bit of work but, I don't mind changing it myself. I know it's done right, I don't strip the oil pan plugs like I've heard some places have done. And, when it comes time to put the CORRECT amount of oil back in, I know what it needs.
To the OP, I know and certainly understand the feelings of wanting to do this stuff yourself. I just finished doing some serious analyzing of wiring issues and, when that was done, I just finished removing the left rear tires and wheels and, replacing that hub wheel seal. So, while much of the work is cumbersome, heavy and at times, somewhat technical, it's still quite gratifying to accomplish as many tasks on these things as possible. You save a buck, (or a lot of bucks) and, you continue to learn about them.
Scott
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05/20/13 02:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Best place to buy replacement awning fabric
Try Sailrite. They have every kind possible.
Ken
Wow, not many people know about "Sailrite". I've got a Sailrite LSZ-1 Walking foot zig-zag machine of theirs. It's a fantastic machine. Now, as for them supplying material, Yes sir-ee bub, they got more material than Carter has Liver pills. They have kits for doing it yourself, or plain material and much, much more. Now, maybe this is not for the OP but, making one to me, would be kind of fun. But I can sure appreciate the ability to either take one out of the box and install it or, simply cruise on down to the local RV repair specialists and have one installed. Your choice.
Scott
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05/20/13 01:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Air Compressor Projects - Anyone?
Gents,
As has been noted, many Jeep owners, that use them anyway, have done just what's been suggested. We've owned 7 Jeep Wranglers. (1) CJ-5, (2) CJ-7s, (2)YJs, and (2)TJs. All of them I installed engine driven air compressors. On two, I installed air tanks. One of which, was the front bumper. It was a 2"x4" tubular bumper with sealed ends and fittings on the inside(toward radiator). It worked flawless.
As many of you know, having compressed air at the grab of a hat, is priceless sometimes. But, in setting something like that up, it takes ingenuity, and tenacity. About 99.9% of the Diesel owners out there already have an advantage. They've got an engine driven compressor already on board. Many have plumbed and valved systems for airing up tires etc. already done by the factory.
But, the gas owners, well, that's where the ingenuity comes in. While it is possible, on some of the gas engines out there to rig an engine driven compressor, it is for the most part, a serious effort. And, the problem is, unless your air system, tank, lines, valves etc. are seriously SEALED, you won't have available immediate air, unless you start up your rig. That's not the end of the world, unless it's in the wee hours of the morning or late at night.
Now, we come to alternate ways of "making compressed air". I've built home air compressors and, even jeep compressors out of "Tecumseh" A/C pumps, and, Sanden A/C pumps. One is a piston style pump and one is a rotary style pump. The Sandon one is by far easier to mount up and adapt to surroundings. Then, all one needs is a 110VAC motor, a pulley or two, some plumbing and a tank.
Now if you've got a regular air compressor (compressor head) then, you still need the rest of the parts to build your system.
Then, you could simply mount, an already made unit, and plumb it to a tank via some lines etc. and put a couple of outlets, maybe one at lateral ends of the coach. You could have setup for it to come on automatically as you use air, or, have to turn on a switch to energize it. If our Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT didn't already have an air system on it, I might have one built by now. As is, I still carry a Sears unit that's very popular on this forum.
Scott
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05/19/13 04:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
those are self resetting breakers. look on the side for the amperage rating, usually 20 amp or 30 amp. looks like they could use a little tender loving care, and while your at it might as well replace them, they don't cost that much.
Auto resetting breakers
here is a sample
Roger that big time! You see, (or can't I should say)you don't know what the connection is like under those nuts. So, not only replace those circuit breakers but, be ready to replace the wire ends too. A good inspection will reveal how bad they are when removed.
Scott
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05/17/13 10:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cruise Control
koda55,
There was also a recall on the F-53 Chassis with the cruise control. I don't have the model years but, it was an extensive recall. It had to do with a bad harness that involved the cruise control. Might be something to think about.
Scott
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05/17/13 09:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: leveling and slide out
yes we have hwh625 with air bags the reason iam asking is the right rear jack is real slow coming up and the springs have been replaced
Don't be too alarmed at that. About 95% of the jacks retract slow, especially the rear ones. Some will be a bit faster and some, well they take their time. You see, there's a ton of resistance that, that fluid encounters when traveling back to the reservoir, all the way from the rear of the coach. There's bends, kinks (sometimes), size of hose, and more that will restrict the flow of that fluid back to it's home. And, the temp has to do with it too. The colder it is outside, the thicker that hydraulic fluid is and, the slower it will travel in the line back to camp.
When the pump is running, that's a serious amount of pressure developed and, it has no choice but, to "scram" to the jack and do it's job of making the jack work. But, on the reverse side, all that's pushing that fluid back home are those springs. You could put FOUR return springs on each jack and it would only be marginally faster in retracting them. As long as they DO retract, you're pretty good to go. Some say that cleaning them and lubing them with things like ATF trans fluid etc. will aid in slow retraction. That's an experiment that I've not tried.
Now, it has been stated that, there is a "time table" of which those jacks are supposed to operate at. That is to say, they're suppose to fully retract in a certain amount of time. I'd have to do some digging to find it but, it's out there somewhere. But, again, as long as they do retract, you're go to go. It will just take some time.
Scott
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05/17/13 09:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: leveling and slide out
campingman55,
Your '05 Vectra is basically a sister ship to our '04 Horizon. I can only assume but, I won't take for granted that you have the HWH Auto leveling, 625 system. And, if it actually is the HWH 625 system, then it can be automatic or manual.
Let's say it's the 625 system and, you want to use it the automatic way. You can do it two different, but easy ways. One with the engine running and the other, without. In either case, the system will automatically "dump" the air in the bags and then, it will deploy the jacks, bringing down the appropriate ones in the order needed for accurate leveling.
Once that's done, the system will automatically shut down and, then, and only then, do you maneuver your slides out. You see, you need a stable platform that's well supported for the slides. And on the opposite end, when picking up and getting ready to depart, you retract the slides FIRST, and then, when you're all ready to head out, you start your engine, and then turn on the HWH panel and hit "Store". The bags will begin to inflate and, the jacks will all retract at the same time and, when all the "red" blinking lights are out on that panel, thats an indication that your jacks are up and ready for travel.
And, by the way, when that system is ready for travel, it turns on the "Travel" mode light. You're ready to head out.
One more thing and it's important. If your slide and jack system IS HWH, DO NOT EXTEND THE SLIDE(S) HALF WAY AND THEN RETRACT THEM!!!!! If you're going to extend any slide, extend it ALL THE WAY, then retract it. And, if you're going to retract any slide, retract it ALL THE WAY IN, then put it back out if that's your plan. Good luck. Happy Rving.
Scott
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05/17/13 08:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What did you do to your Class A MH today???
Well Gang,
Upon my last brake inspection of our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT, I found a slightly leaking left rear hub seal. It was not that bad so, we went on our pending trip. About 1500 miles later, I thought I'd take another look, not knowing how long it took it to get that way in the first 49,900 miles. Well, it's only a tad worse but, since I had it half way apart, I figured what the heck, might as well do it.
This kind of job is not all that hard. The hard part is, the heaviness of each of the wheels and tires, the drum and, even the hub. So, if you plan on taking on a project like this, be prepared for some heavy and awkward tire/wheel combos and that drum.
Anyway, with the correct tools, gear-reduced "Torque Multiplier", the 450 lb. torqued lug nuts came off very, very easily. Then the drum, which I used a motorcycle jack to remove, what a piece of cake with that jack. Then, the hub, I needed 4" hub nut socket for that.
Then, the removal of the seal. I used a Snap On "claw footed" crow bar for that and, it worked flawless. I cleaned all the parts and, ordered up the seal. Incidentally, that seal is right at $47.00, wow, for a seal?? Really!
So, in the pics you'll see that there is some migration of the diff oil on various edges and some parts but, not enough to contaminate the brake shoes etc. So, I finished cleaning all the brake area, return springs, S-cam etc. I had to make a seal installer tool because this seal is so large that you could damage it by trying to install it with the old hammer and flat punch way. Boy, that's the way to go. So, all back together and better than new. A fun but, laborious project.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1010212_zps6835f5f7.jpg
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05/17/13 07:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Roof renewal products
Geocritter,
Yes Sir, this topic's been around, on and off, for quite a while and, it's always a presidential debate. The long and short of it, some guys NEVER climb on their roof and never see the condition of it, some don't think anything has to be done to it, EVER! Some, do a yearly wash and that's it. Some, do more like wash, protect with many forms of products.
Long story short, our previous coach, a '99 Fleetwood Bounder 34V, had a deteriorating rubber roof, the EDPM version. Well, after about 6 years of ownership, and sitting directly in the hot, So CAL sun, that roof was almost completely BLACK, due to the fact that the white coating was just wearing away.
Well, after quite a bit of research, I finally decided on the Dicor product. It's a two part process. Here's the scoop. It was all done in one day!
1. Wash with good soap and water and good brush, let dry.
2. Apply "primer/prep" and scrub, then, "PRESSURE WASH OFF"!!!
3. After that's dry, apply first coat of new coating, let dry
4. Apply second coat of coating.
Now, that was about 5+ years ago an it looks as good today as it did the day we did it. No more black, no more streaks and, considerably cooler inside the coach due to a white roof, not solar black one. Now, that was way back then, there certainly could be more economical coatings out today.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/coatedroof.jpg
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05/17/13 02:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling
Heatmcalister,
First off, "What agent"? A salesman? In most coaches, if not all, leveling is handled on the "inside" of the coach. I've been around these things for a while now and have never seen where someone has to go "outside" the coach to handle leveling practices. Now, different year, model and makes setup the leveling practice in slightly different procedures. It depends on:
1. Who made the leveling system? HWH & Power Gear are the primary makers
2. What does the owners manual say?
3. Is the system Automatic or, manual or, both?
Now, I suppose there could be some sort of valve on the outside for some purpose of draining air etc. But, for leveling? Boy, that's a first for me.
A suggestion if I may here. If you live with a sloped drive way or the parking place for your coach is less than level, then a way more stable way of making it level while at your home is to "drive" onto blocks (tapered preferably) to get the coach PRIMARILY level, and then, use the leveling system (jacks) to do the fine tuning and, stabilization. You and, the coach will be much happier that way.
If you use the jacks only and, your situation is that unleveled, it creates undo stress on the frame/body/windshield/doors etc. due to the torqueing of the frame while it's trying to "tweak" that coach into being level. By driving up on some nice, heavy duty, solid wooden blocks, you're assuring the stability and sure footedness right off the bat. Just a suggestion.
Scott
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05/17/13 02:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Kelderman Air Ride
You know,
This is amazing to me. We had a '99 Fleetwood Bounder, 34V w/F-53 chassis and V-10. We really liked the coach and would have it today if we didn't travel with both a Honda Goldwing and a toad. We had to change motorhomes due to the way we load the rig up.
Now, that being said, that Bounder was a nice coach but, seriously wrongly designed. It has a 100 gallon water tank at the very rear of the coach, a 75 gallon fuel tank just behind the rear axle and, a 14 gallon propane tank behind the right rear duals. So, needless to say, the front end was seriously "unloaded" for the GAWF. The front axle weight rating was 7,000 lbs. The actual weight, with every thing loaded, was 5,500. It road like a rock. Now, I could see that the Kelderman system back then might, have been an improvement but, what I'm kind of wondering here is,
Has Ford, and the RV industry as a whole not done ANYTHING to alleviate the "so called" issues about Ford handling and weight loading problems that, a person who purchases a 2013 Motorhome and then has to turn right around and spend, what used to be back when we had the Bounder, about $3,000.00 to "try" and get it to ride correctly?
To spend that kind of money, right after spending the big money on the coach in the first place, sure seems like I'd have to maybe think about another chassie'd coach, depending on what else is available. Sure seems like Ford and the RV industry would get together on this but, maybe they just don't care 'cause people still buy the coaches equipped with the F-53 chassis.
Scott
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05/17/13 09:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Slideouts and jacks not working
Donpepe,
Yes, your complete HWH pump and reservoir are under your steps. I fail to see how Winnebago could not give you this information. If they have the last six of your vin, they can tell you where every nut and bolt is. They have for me, the last few times I've called them.
If you lay on your side, in front of the right front wheel, and look up, under the right front of the coach, towards the under side of the steps, you should see a clear, Plexiglas panel.
That is a cover panel for the circuit board that runs the entire HWH system. It looks like something out of a Star Trek movie. And yes, under your second step, the front lip, is the bolt that secures that step. Remove the bolt, and the step hinges towards the driver side of the coach. When you lift that step, you'll see the pump, manifold, all the solenoids, and the reservoir.
Now, I'm assuming that, when you were trying to operate all the slides and the jacks, that your emergency brake was set. Because if it wasn't (no one on a diesel parks without setting that brake because there is no "Park" in the trans on those), than your HWH system will not work. There is a e-brake interlock that must be activated prior to the HWH system to be operative.
If your e-brake was set, and you've still had issues, that interlock switch system could be on the fritz. I hope this helps some.
Scott
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05/16/13 09:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water leak from area behind Frig
augustpilot,
It's quite possible that it is your ice maker line. There is a heater line that usually accompanies that water line, inside the insulated tubing cover that runs up the back of the fridge.
The heater is for keeping that line from freezing in colder climates etc. It sometimes, heats right through that water line and, causes a leak that runs down and around the bottom of the fridge. It can be a pain to trace.
I pulled my fridge in our previous coach, a '99 Fleetwood Bounder 34V and, replaced that line with some new, 1/4" plastic line from the hardware store. I also separated it from that heater because I knew that, that rig would never see that kind of temps to warrant the heater line being placed next to the water line. Never had another leak. Just an idea.
Scott
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05/16/13 08:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: wheel polishing
How can you tell if the wheels are clear coated? Are most wheels not clear coated?
bgholson,
At a distance, you can't, at least not me. But, upon close inspection, some of the manufacturers, actually put a moniker or, label on their wheels that say so. One particular brand of wheels is Accuride wheels. They use and, stamp on their wheels the word: Accushield. That tells you right off the bat, that on those wheels is a coating.
Now, if you can't read that or, it's not a set of Accuride wheels, then, a very simple test will tell. Get some mothers or, Semi-Chrome or, any one of a zillion other metal polishes out there and put dab on the tip of a terry cloth of microfiber towel and rub a small spot, say around an inch square.
Now, with an uncoated wheel, the rag will immediately start to turn black. That's the aluminum oxidation coming off. And, the result, a shiny spot. But, if the wheel's got a coating on it, You can rub 'till your fingers fall off and it will NOT TURN BLACK.
And don't let anyone tell you 'DON'T DO IT, YOU'LL RUIN YOUR COATING IMMEDIATELY! BULL SH.. Todays coatings are seriously tough stuff. If you could ruin it with 10 seconds of some "Tooth paste" polish, then you'd darn near ruin it with washing it with soap and water and dirty chamois.
If you don't have any polish, even some wax, (with cleaners in the chemical mix) will do the trick. They're not nearly as strong as a polish but, if there's no coating on the wheels, the rag will turn black.
Scott
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05/16/13 10:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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