What do you consider "struggling"?? If you don't like hearing the engine working at over 4000 rpms, then you need to look for diesels.
If you want to be maxed out on weights, a 25 series truck will get you down the road, but might have you really feeling the trailer more.
Moving up to a 35 series truck will give you more capacity, weight wise, but if it's a single rear wheel rig, you might still be maxed out for the size RV you have once it's packed up.
Getting a dually diesel that's even 10 years old will still probably fit the bill for weights on that size 5th wheel... That's what my folks have for a smaller and lighter 5th wheel and Dad says it's a pleasure to tow and no "struggles" at all... His 5th wheel is 12.5K GVWR, but Mom has it loaded to that weight easily! :)
The only way to lower your rpms is to have more power/torque to be able to hold the higher gears of the transmission.
I towed my #5000 TT with my 5.4 F150 with a 4 speed trans and it was in second gear pulling around 3500 rpms to go 50-55 mph.
Same TT with a Ecoboost F150 with the 6 speed trans and it's going up the same grades in 4th pulling 2500 rpms going 60 mph..
The difference is the 5.4 only had 230 hp/330 tq while the Eco has 365 hp/420 tq...
Simply adding the 6 speed would not help my 5.4.. It would still need the higher rpms to pull the load, since it only had so much power..
Same deal for you even if you could find an ECU to control the 6 speed trans for your combo.
There is a lot more to towing a large, heavy trailer than just the "numbers"..
Just going by the number of different posts you've had concerning this and all the answers you have gotten, no wonder your head is spinning.. :) (you have information overload and it's all just blah, blah, blah at this point!)
What you need to do now that you have the tow vehicle and you have the travel trailer is to load it up, take it out and start learning how it's going to respond to each other... It's like introducing two new people together... Sure, their "profiles" and what you know about them make them seem like a good match, but until you sit them down and let them get to know each other, who knows how they are going to be with each other..
Same thing with your truck and trailer.. Now you also have to train YOURSELF in how to make the two get along..
That's knowing how long it takes to stop. How much pedal you have to give it to get up the hills. How to take turns a bit wider and always watching the mirrors and on and on... :)
Even thou I had been RV camping my whole childhood with my folks and have towed all sorts of trailers from coast to coast, when I got my first TT in 2002, it was a whole new world to me and I had to learn how my truck reacted to it and I also had to learn my trailer... I camped in the driveway for a whole weekend before I took it out for the first time! That really opened my eyes on what I needed to do and take, but being in my driveway, I was able to remedy it easily. I also took short trips initially to get the feel of it and was tweaking the hitch setup for the first several trips to get it "dialed in".
So, if you are still with me, notice I haven't given you any more 'numbers' to crunch... :) Just take what you got and see how YOU like it and adjust what you can and know it's NOT going to be the same driving as it is when you are not towing.. Your truck is going to work hard and you have to learn what it likes and does not like and adjust accordingly.
Good luck with it and be sure to tell us of your first adventure! :)
I bought my first TT from Poulsbo RV from their lot off of I5, which I think is their "Kent" location... I did this back in 2002, so no idea what their selling tactics are now..
But, I can tell you that they do want your money, so they will do whatever it takes to get it! :)
We found the rig we wanted and after saying "lets look at some numbers", they were all set on selling it to us for the sticker price... I said, "but we haven't even determined what the sales price is going to be??" We said "we already have our own financing, so we won't be going thru your finance department and we'll give you a call later with an offer".
I called them the next day and made my offer. They called back about an hour later with an offer that worked for me and was way less than the 'sticker price' they originally wanted to sell it to me and we made the deal.
They tried to sell me on the "extended warranty" deal as well as "giving" us a "trial" of their "Thousand Trails" camping club thing... Was not interested in either of those and told them NO on both of them. So the deal was made on our original agreement and I paid them cash and a check from my credit union for the price and that was the deal.
I've still got the same TT to this day and it's been great! :)
Good luck with your future shopping and I hope you can find the RV of your dreams too! :)
My brakes work good and strong when the bleeder valve is CLOSED.. I have no clue as to how the vehicle stops with the bleeder valve OPEN, so yes, you have me there on not knowing what happens in that case... :)
If you send out a vehicle with an open brake line and feel confident that the vehicles ability to stop is fine, that's great... :) I really do hope that is the case... But, that's NOT what I'm saying here, so I don't know what we are pissing about??? :)
If it's just the fact that I don't know if my vehicle will still stop when a bleeder valve is OPEN, yes, that's correct... I don't know that.... All that I do know is that the pedal goes to the floor board completely on all eras of vehicles I've worked on, so that's all I'm saying here.. :)
Fine, I can not argue with that, because I've never tested the theory out myself, but I just know what I've done and seen and there is no further pedal travel that I've ever seen (to the floor board), so I know I'm just a hack and not an ASE mechanic, but I have rebuilt engines and brakes and maintain my own families vehicles that are apparently death traps and don't know a flipping thing... :) Guess I've just been lucky over the years... ;)
Btw, turtle n peeps is 100% correct. Any "mechanic" that says any different, is the one that shouldn't be working on vehicles.
OMG.. Have you ever worked on a vehicle before yourself or bleed the brakes on a vehicle?? I just did this YESTERDAY on a 2003 RAV4 and the damn pedal went to the floor when I opened up the damn BLEEDER valve... That's how I've bleed brakes for the last 38 freaking years and that's with my own family's vehicles when I was 13 years old and Mom and Dad are still here.... ;) (Dad is the one who showed me how to do it, as well as all the other "mechanic" stuff I do on a regular basis.. ;) )
I don't give a flipping eff what the "law" says... All I know is if I open a bleeder valve on a single wheel, the damn brake pedal goes to the FLOOR BOARD and there is no other pressure to the rest of the system...
Peeps.. Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying.. :)
When I open a single bleeder valve, I can put the pedal to the floor and not have any resistance to the pedal what so ever. I can't push the pedal any farther. I know it's on the floor because I've bleed brakes by myself before and if you don't have a "single person bleeder" setup you have to hold the pedal to the floor and have to have another person CLOSE the bleeder fitting before you release the pedal, or you'll suck air back into the line and defeat the purpose of bleeding the line in the first place.
I used my "THE CLUB" steering wheel anti theft bar to hold the brake pedal and it's as far on the floor board as it can go when I've done it by myself.
So, yes,if I where to back the vehicle out of my garage with a bleeder valve open, it'll just go down the driveway and not have any brakes what so ever..
To me, that tells me that if you lose any part of the line, you won't have any brakes.. But, that's not what I'm completely positive on, since I've never had an on the road brake failure like the OP did... I still stand by my statements of saying that when a bleeder valve is open on a single wheel, the brake pedal goes to the floor..
So, if you wanted to disable someone's brakes, all you have to do is open up (or just snap off) a single bleeder valve on that vehicle and the first time the driver hits the brakes, the pedal will go to the floor and they will have no brakes, other than their emergency brake setup on the rear if they think of that in time..
Peeps, I don't have to look up anything and I'm not giving out ANY misinformation... All I know is when I open a bleeder valve on any vehicle I bleed the brakes on, the pedal goes to the floor.. PERIOD... I've never had a brake failure while on the road, so I can't say one way or the other on that..
If indeed the system will apply any pressure to the unaffected system that does not have a leak on it that's NOT what I'm saying... I'm just saying that when I open a single line, the pedal goes to the floor and that's how you BLEED your brakes.. ;)
Sorry I'm not getting what you are trying to say here, but you are not getting what I'm trying to say either, so there.. ;)
Peeps... That might be a simple explanation, and I get it, if that's the kind of master cylinder you have. But it's not how any of my brake system have worked on my 13 F150, or my 97 F150 or my 86 Mustang or my 03 Rav4 or any vehicle I've ever bleed the brakes on since I was a teenager... ;)
Open a single bleeder valve on a wheel and the pedal goes to the floor each and every time no matter how many times you do it and you will have to add brake fluid to the reservoir because it drains it all out of the bleeder..
I remember the dual reservoirs on my old 71 LTD and when I bleed the brakes on it, I'd have to fill up the individual reservoirs depending on which brakes I was bleeding (front or back), but each time I did that, the brake pedal went to the floor each time and more and more fluid was lost out of the open bleeder...
So, I don't know what to say, other than I just did this yesterday on the RAV4 and each time I opened a bleeder, the pedal went to the floor and I had to add brake fluid to the system to replace it and never did I have a situation where I had an open bleeder when the pedal didn't go to the floor.
Peeps.. When you bleed brakes, you open a single line (think of that as a failed brake line). When you press on the brake pedal, it'll go to the floor pushing out fluid. Let the pedal come back up and press again, it'll go to the floor again and push out more fluid..
Close that bleeder valve and it's all solid again.
Yes, there are two separate systems, but that's because the front brakes are set to apply MORE pressure than the rears when you slam on the brakes... They are both part of the same system that when one line fails, the entire system will have no pressure.
You would need 2 master cylinders to have the system you are thinking of... ;)
In the OP's case, we don't know what failed, so it's just 4 pages of speculation.. My guess is probably one of the rubber lines failed, but that's just a guess...
I remove mine because of the steep angle the trailer takes getting up the driveway and also the jack knife position I have to put the trailer in when it's parked. It's a lot easier to take them off on the street when it's straight and level.
Just what works for me and my parking situation.
Yeah, I would cover it if you are parking it under trees... ;)
This cover is over 9 years old, so it's done it's fair share of protecting the trailer! :)
When the needles and cones collect on the top, I don't worry too much about it.. If it stays dry for a few days, I can usually blow them off with the leaf blower, but usually, it's not a big deal..
If they are using the water pump, it's impossible to drain the hot water tank when the fresh water tank empties.. The pump needs water in order to pump it. Once it sucks air from the empty tank, no water pressure will be built and the hot water tank will remain full.
Tell them to take very short showers! It's not like the one in the house. If it's just a couple of days, a good hot sponge bath does wonders too..
Good luck and congrats for being such a good friend! :)
No idea, but I've never done that in 12 years of owning my TT.. Each Spring when I uncover it, I fire up the fridge and it has always worked. I shut it down between trips while I'm using it too.
I've heard folks leave them running 24/7/365.
The fridge in my house has been running for over 16 years. Not the same type of fridge as an RV fridge of course.. ;)
Good luck with whatever you do.
Saw this on one of our adventures.. Never did see the golf cart on the ground, or the semi leave, but the old guy that was always out front seemed content! :)