You could try to exchange it at one of those Amerigas or Blue Rhino places... They don't really 'look' too hard at the one you are turning in. I've never had one check the date on them.. I've turned in all my old tanks this way over the last year now.
Just make sure you check the expire date on the one you are getting... I exchanged my 12 year old tank at a 7-eleven and I had to pick though a couple of them before I found one that had at least a 2013 date on it... The first one he pulled out had a date of 2002! The same age as the one I was exchanging!
So, for $24, I got a 2013 tank with a fair amount of gas in it and got rid of my almost expired tank in the process..
I see new tanks in the stores for $30 and then you have to still fill it!
After an update to my Garmin awhile ago, it added an exclusion for "unpaved roads".. If you didn't check it to "exclude" them, it would take you on unpaved roads! Found this out while towing the trailer. We knew the way to go but the GPS kept telling us to go this other way... Well, got curious and decided to follow it.. It wasn't so bad initially.. Ended up on some wide gravel roads, but it kept telling us to "turn right". Well, "right" was just an open field?? After a couple of times, I noticed that there was a "road" between the fields where it was saying 'turn right', so again.. "what the heck, we've come this far"... :)
Got lucky and it was not too bad of a 'road', except for the 90* turn at one point and a huge rut running through the 'road'..
Finally got to the main hwy and determined that it saved about 5 miles, but going 10 mph through the fields, it cost us more in time...
When we got home, I went through the settings and found the new exclusion setting and also set it to calculate for shorter 'time' and not 'distance' and that way it tends to keep you on the hwy than the back roads...
I like the GPS, but also have paper maps and still watch out for signs and other clues as to the direction I'm going. I also have not been 'curious' about when it says to go a way I know is not exactly right... :)
I don't think the 'lemon law' applies to RV's, but it could be a 'state' thing too??
Also, isn't the definition of 'lemon' where the same repair has been done a number of times and there seems to be no lasting 'fix' for it?
If you are having many different things go wrong and they are repaired, but don't repeat with the same exact repair again, I don't think that's a 'lemon' as such.... Just a poor job of QC or a POS trailer to begin with... ;)
My trailer had some 'minor' things pop up on it, and I took it back to the dealer initially, but got tired of that as they were things I could just fix myself and do a better job of it!!
Now, if an appliance went bad during it's warranty period, I would have brought it in... But, I fixed most of my fit and finish stuff with a screwdriver and some additional screws in most cases...
I know it must suck to have issues with a brand new rig, but sometimes the cure (taking it back to the dealer each time) is worse than the original problem (fixing it with a screw driver).
So did anybody ANSWER the OP's question?
No.. He found the answer himself from another source, but there was one poster that did mention that it could be the computer raising the rpms to match the speed so when it's shifted back into gear, the engine speed would be better matched to the vehicle speed... I've never heard that before, but it got off topic to the whole 'snow' deal pretty early and wilber likes to put it in neutral and others don't... ;) That's the "topic" now... :)
An easy way to check, just to be sure, is to get a volt meter (the kind with the individual probs). Put the black lead in the neutral slot of the plug and the red lead in the hot slot and it should read zero volts. Fire up the generator and check again. It should read around 120v. It really does not matter which slot either lead goes.. If it's reversed, it'll just show -120v. Swap them and it'll show +120v and you'll then know which is which! :)
Plug in the male end and you should now have power to your 120v plugs and appliances in the RV.
I've never seen one wired up in a single box that way, but you can tell there are 2 separate wires going "in" and the single plug going "out".
Have fun finding out about the LP powered appliances next! They are probably pilot light operated and those take some extra, manual steps to lite! ;)
You know what you should do when going downhill when it's icy out??? Drop the trans to a LOWER GEAR and let the engine braking maintain your speed and you don't need to touch the brakes at all. Go figure. ;)
I have no idea how this works with DIESEL engines, since I understand they don't do that without an exhaust brake, but for GAS engines, this is the way I've always done with no ABS at all.
If you have a 4wd vehicle, doing this will allow both axles to aid in the engine braking, so even less chance of skidding.
Of course, if you are going too fast you'll still skid, regardless of what gear your trans is in, but to just say putting it in neutral going downhill in the snow won't lock up your brakes is just nuts IMO...
I know this has nothing to do with the OP original question and he found his answer SOMEWHERE ELSE... :) But, I just couldn't let the snow part go..
Do whatever works for you... I know what works for me and it ain't putting it in neutral going downhill in the freaking SNOW... ;)
My guess is that's where you plug in the short MALE plug so you are now powered by the motorhomes GENERATOR.. Older MH's don't have the transfer switches that the new ones have.. ;)
So, when you need to run off the gen, plug the short male plug into the female box. When you want to run off the camp grounds power, plug the short male into a 30 amp extension with a female on one end and a male on the other..
I think you have it covered.. I'm sure you have a full tool box with all the basic wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers and a roll or two of duct tape??
I like to bring along some extra fuses, hose clamps, fan belt, black electrical tape, etc... ;)
Sounds like a great trip plan and I wish you the best! I hope to do that at some point in my life!
Okay, this example is not for a trailer axle, but my old 97 F150 that had rear drum brakes that were self adjusting... ;)
I could turn the star wheel in either direction to set them.. You could feel and hear the clicking of the spring loaded cable that was set to turn the star wheel in the 'tighter' direction when backing up and applying the brakes..
They worked fine, but did require adjustment when replacing the shoes.. And then some fine tuning afterward.
I don't think there would be anyway of telling if that cable/adjusting lever are present by looking thru the adjusting hole?? I could barely see the start wheel on mine..
On my TT, it has the same exact star wheel as the truck had.. Just no cable or adjusting lever to spin it 'automatically'..
If you have the integrated brake controller, the computer will KNOW when you plug in and who knows what it stores after that?? You can program it for multiple trailers and the computer will keep track of the individual miles while that trailer is connected.. Seems to me, it'll also record what mileage the truck has when it's connected??
I'd just wait another week.. I'm sure the dealer can keep your trailer for you and you just take some 'scenic' roads trips and get to 1000 miles and hitch up and don't fret about anything after that... :)
If it's YOUR schedule that is the issue... Well, there you go.. ;)
I'm surprised you don't need any blinker fluid or muffler bearings.... ;)
Get a second opinion.. Of course if there is no oil on the dipstick, or it's leaking like a sieve, and the front wheel bearing is actually howling, I think it would be wise.. Don't mention anything about the previous "diagnosis" and see what they say..
Good luck and thank you for your service!
It's totally your call, but the 1000 mile deal IS for the rear gear set, so while you are basically half way there..... It's your call.... ;)
I've got a new 2013 F150 that I got just a couple of months ago and I'm at 2300 miles now.. I'll take my first tow in a week or so and the first big trip sometime in May.. It took me about a month to get 1000 miles and that was just my daily driving commute to work and some additional driving during lunch..
I don't know that I'd do it, even if only 30 miles??
Good luck with whatever you decide..
Do you absolutely "need" that stuff? No. Can you apply or get that stuff later on? Yes.
I bought my first brand new truck a couple of months ago and they gave me a check list that I had to initial that I was explained these add ons and that I was knowingly rejecting them...
There was at least 6 or 7 of them..
If I find that I want something later on, I'll look into it.. :)
Just what works for me.. If it makes you feel better, get 'em now.. The dealer will LOVE YOU! ;)
I'd do it now, since it's never been done since it came off the lot... I did mine after it's first year and found very little grease in the bearings.. Enough to not cause any damage, but not like how I like to see them packed..
I do my own and it gives me a chance to check and adjust the brakes too.
After the first couple of years doing it every year, I've now gone to every other year now because I saw that after MY packing of the bearings, they still have plenty of grease in them, even every other year.. But, the brakes still need adjusting, so that's my schedule.. ;)
My profession is accounting... Analyzing numbers is what I do.
I'm the system admin for a cpa firm, so I know the type! You've gotta love numbers to get to that degree and if that's what floats your boat, more power to ya! :)
This was my 16th year with the firm, so my 16th tax season and I'm ready for a break! :)
All my best and I hope you find the perfect rig!
'snotty' Mitch ;)
I respect all the research you are doing and trying to make an informed decision on buying an expensive RV and not biting off more than you can chew, but WOW....
In all the time I've been RVing... And this goes back to the early 70's when I was a kid and Mom and Dad got tired of taking us kids camping in tents, have we or I ever worried about the difference in the TW going out and coming back from a camping trip...
I base my weights on it's max ratings and if it's less, it's just a bonus.. :)
Sure, I might have been overweight in the past... The world did not end and I didn't kill anyone.. ;)
I know it's a different world than it was 45 years ago, but physics have always been the same since ancient times.. :)
Anyway, I think you are WAY over thinking this deal and just need to find something with around a GVWR of around #6000, load it up and ENJOY and HAVE FUN and not fret the little stuff..
Sure, you don't want to get a #10,000 TT with a Nissan Titan and a big and growing family.... We didn't do that 45 years ago...
It mostly comes down to common sense and knowing your own limits and comfort level.. That's what keeps you within your limits of everything in life, right??
I don't even come close to meeting the standard deduction for married filing jointly... I paid more for medical ins premiums than I did on my home mortgage interest! By almost double! And still didn't even come close.
RV's been paid off for about 7 years now anyway.. :)
Must really suck to have to pay for all that extra stuff just to get a few extra bucks off your tax bill.... :)
Wind and/or constant rain have been the only things that have made me leave a day early from my planned camping trip.. It's been one time for each instance in the 12 years of my planned camping trips..
Put them on the bed while in transit. Put them on the counter when not moving.
Why do they need to stay on the counter when you are traveling? It's not like anyone is in the trailer during that time... ;)