My wifes Rav4 had the green caps on it when we bought it used in 2006 (it's a 2003) and I had to top it off with 78% nitrogen from then on... After a few times of topping off and then getting new tires not too long ago, I found I didn't have to "top off" as often..
To me, it seemed the "nitrogen" filled tires lost PSI faster than it does with just "air" in it...
Dunno what the deal is with paying extra for the green caps when regular compressed air works just as well and I don't seem to lose as much PSI a month either....
If it was me, I'd just use my compressor... ;)
I kinda had a feeling that it was your A/C unit... That's a small TT, so the fridge itself must just be a single door, under the counter unit?
I've got the bigger unit with 2 doors with the upper freezer..
Mine vents thru the roof and has the larger lower vent on the outside that you can pull off with just a couple of tabs.
I also run the roof 13.5k A/C when it's that hot out and I have electric hook up, so that keeps my inside temps in the low to mid 70's easily..
I don't mind using LP for the fridge 100% of the time when it keeps my beer cold! :) And yes, it keeps the rest of the food cold too... :)
Dunno, but my truck came with factory 20's with P275/55/20 Bridgestone tires, but the spare is an 18" with LT275/65/18 Goodyear Wranger tire on it..
Towing the same TT I towed with my old 97 F150 with 16" wheels on it with LT265/75/16 tires all I can say is the 20's perform better than those LT 16's...
I can corner better and it handles the trailer just fine and I don't see any reason to get LT 20" tires for it at all... :)
It's not the wheel diameter that determines the overall tire height size... It's the size of the tire on that wheel that makes the difference..
My 20's are the same height as my 18" wheel spare and basically the same height as what those 16" wheels were... It's the sidewall of the tire that makes all the difference..
What is the roof vent up front for? To me, that looks like a 'normal' fridge "out" vent?? The thing just below on the side of it up front has me baffled as well??
But, what you did with those in/out vents on the side is very "cool" indeed! :)
Were you running the fridge on gas or elect when it got that hot in the day?
I ask because I run my fridge 100% of the time on gas, just because it cools so much better and I'm able to keep it between 38-40* even of the hottest of days and opening it a lot to get my beer thru the day.. ;)
When I run it on electric in the same temps and such, it'll get to 45 and take forever to recover...
Oh, and even thou I'm in the NW, I camp a lot on the EAST side of the mountain and it gets very hot over there... ;)
Do you mean under 21' total length or 21' in camper length? My trailer is 22' from bumper to hitch, but only 19' of actual camper..
It has a queen bed up front, middle kitchen/dinette, rear bath.
No way to have quad bunks in this thing, unless you took out the rear bath and put the kitchen/dinette up front leaving you with a fold down bunk on the dinette.. Not sure where the bath would go??
Can't say I've seen one of those floorplans..
Back in the day when I was a kid, my folks had a 1976 Taurus that had quad bunks in the rear, middle kitchen/bath and the front was the dinette that folded down to a bed.. But, it was about 26' at least in total length..
I remember camping in a 1963 or so 12' Shasta trailer before we got the Taurus.. Had us 2 kids and Mom and Dad in that one! :)
Good luck with the search.. What I'm seeing out there now for "bunks" all seem to be over 26' to 33' in length now a days...
It's not the water pump that's loud... It's how it's mounted and/or the pipes that are making all the noise... ;)
It probably has little rubber mounted feet on it, but if it's screwed down too tight and compressing those rubber feet, it's not doing any good.
If the outlet pipe from it is mounted directly to the floor, then that will cause the pipe to rattle and that's what you are hearing..
Try running the pump "dry" for a few seconds.. (no, it will not damage the pump)... Notice how quiet it is... It's not until it's pumping water and banging on the mounts and the pipes that is causing all the noise.
What I did was make sure the mount was not too tight. Then, I put some foam insulating material on the pipe coming from the pump. Finally, I added about 2' of hose to make a "loop" between the pump and the pipe to help keep the vibration out of the pipe and that has made for a very quiet pump..
Almost too quiet.... A couple of times, I didn't get all the air out of the system and had the pump on and it just ran and ran for who knows how long before I caught it and opened up a faucet.... Oh, it's still the original pump from 2002, so running it 'dry' does not really kill it on the spot.. :)
Anyway, lots of other posts on this too..
Figure about $700 per axle if you have 4x4.
But, a change from 3.55 to 3.73 is not very much and I'm sure you are just looking at the difference in "tow ratings" between the 2 gear sets...
Yes, the 3.73's give a better 'tow rating', but you still have the same payload and other weight limits on the truck, so it's not going to be a proportional kind of thing all around.. ;)
The actual difference is only a couple hundred rpms in direct or even OD between the 2. I had 3.55's on my 97 F150 and thought about changing to 3.73's, and while it would have been 'better', I would have had to do 2 axles (4x4) and the cost just did not justify it for me..
If you are really looking to be able to use different trans gears while towing for example, being able to hold OD better, or being able to stay in 3rd instead of shifting to 2nd on the smallest of grades, going to 4.10 would be a bigger change that you'll actually be able to feel and use..
That's just my opinion on the deal, and there are some that have done the 3.55 to 3.73 change I'm sure that are happy too...
But, like I said, if it's just to get to that magical "tow rating" figure... I'd not waste the money.. ;)
If you stay on 101 to Olympia, you can hit I5 at that time. If you take 104 to Bremerton, you'll end up on 16 which takes you over the Tacoma Narrows bridge and it's a TOLL Bridge going East.. I don't recall all the prices for going thru the toll booths, as I have a pass and can just drive thru and it's $4.50 a pop now.. I think the booths are $5.00 and if you have over 2 axles, it costs more.. (including what you are towing too)
I'd just do the 101 route, as that will have more to see anyway..
Good luck and enjoy!
That's what I got... :) (not the HD payload however.. For that, you'll have to special order and they only come in specific cab/bed/trim configs)
So, they are out there... Mine stickered for $43k. I got it for $33k with 35 miles on it January of this year. Right off the lot too.. Just sitting there.. :)
Spray the heck out of the door latch mech with WD-40 and then lube it with something like 3-in-one oil..
It'll then close like "butter"... ;)
And if it doesn't.... It might need some adjustment...
When my trailer was brand new, the door would not close without pulling the handle when you closed it... Lived with that for about 3 years before I did the oil thing and it's been closing normally ever since! That was about 9 years ago too.. :)
Got my Max Tow F150 for $33k... :) I see you are using that funny looking money from up North.. ;) So, maybe that's the difference?
Gotta say I had the old P2 in my 97 F150 and it was a damn good controller..
Got the OEM controller in the 13 and set the gain to your liking and it's smooth as glass when you don't need much brake, but it'll haul you down when you do need a lot of brake!
Good luck with the new ride!
What has been your maintenance schedule for the rad/coolant/engine in general?
Sounds like you have either old coolant, old T-stat, plugged rad or other??
Could even have a blown head gasket by the sounds of it??
As to the other oil cooling going thru the rad, that's normally fine, but if you are heating up like you are on the coolant, it's also heating up those other fluids too... Not so much the other way around.
I don't have an answer for you, but I had a similar experience with MiFi's connecting to laptops in my office. Using Windows 7 as well.
2 laptops would not connect to any MiFi with any consistency. When it did connect, it was so slow, it wasn't even worth connecting.
Other WiFi sources, those same laptops would connect just fine.
Talked to Verizon Support and he had me change the security settings on the MiFi and that seemed to help, but I didn't want to lower the security settings just for those 2 laptops..
Since the MiFi's worked on the other laptops just fine, I just didn't use those laptops when they needed to connect to a MiFi..
I've since replaced those laptops, so it fixed itself... ;)
I think some computers just have a hard time with the various security setups out there.. Even changing them, didn't really 'solve' the issue, as it was still spotty connecting, but when it did connect, it was a tad faster speed, but still not usable faster..
Just remember that the "tow rating" is based on a vehicle that has no additional passengers or stuff loaded in it and also assumes you won't exceed the vehicles other weight limits either.. I imagine you will be taking a passenger and some stuff along..
So, you can't load the vehicle to the gills and still expect to tow something even close to it's "tow rating"... ;)
My 22' trailer had a 'dry weight' of around #3400.. It now weighs every bit of it's #5000 GVWR and then some..
My guess is the trailer you have in mind probably has a GVWR of over #6000 and while it's true you might not ever get it to that weight, but let me know how the wife feels about having a ton of storage space and NOT being able to use it.... ;)
Ever take a look at your home closet if you share it with your wife.... ;) After 12 years with the same trailer, every nook and cranny is stuffed with something! :) (I'm just as guilty of stuffing it with stuff too, so it's not all the wife.. :) )
I'd pull the grades in 2nd gear going around 50-55 mph pulling around 3500 rpms with my old 97 F150 with a 5.4 and 3.55 gears towing a #5000 TT.. Worked for me...
I could have gone 60-65-70 if I wanted to.... I just didn't want to.. ;)
My rpms would have risen for each speed increase...
Traded that 97 with over 255,000 miles on it too and still running fine... :)
Now I tow the same grades, towing the same TT at 60-65 mph pulling around 2500-2800 rpms in 4th gear with the new Eco... :) :)...
Love my Eco.. :)
You probably mean a "tow rating" of #9500... Look at the PAYLOAD sticker on the truck and that's really what you can handle payload wise.. This is probably in the #1200-#1400 range and means that's all the weight you can ADD to the truck which includes additional passengers, stuff in the bed and most important, the tongue weight of the TT you hitch to it...
Those trailers you mention will likely have at least #800 TW to as much as #1200 once you get it loaded up... "Dry weights" for TT's and comparing that to the "tow rating" of your truck is usually a recipe for being overloaded on the truck... How much that overloads it and what your towing experience is is up to you to determine...
Most of us "seasoned" RVer's have learned this over the years by experience and more than likely, towing overloaded before and knowing what that's like! ;)
All you can do is tear out to the next "joist" and 'box' it in as best you can..
Gotta be able to get all the "cancer" out and still be able to keep the support all around.
You might be able to add your own additional support with additional cross "joists" to help keep the hole from getting too large...