Yeah, they probably turned it off.. ;)
Just kidding.... :) If it's a standard RV type fridge, it runs on either LP or on 120v.
On my RV fridge, there is an on/off button. Then there is an auto/gas button.
When in the auto position, if you are plugged into 120v and you have the on/off button on, it'll run on electric (it'll take over 8+ hours for it to get cold BTW). If you unplug the 120v and the lp is turned on, it's supposed to switch to gas. (It'll still take over 8 hours for it to get cold if it's room temp when you start it)
If it's in gas mode only, it'll only run on gas, but if it does not lite, there is a red light that comes on that indicates you need to reset it. And that is turning it off and wait a few seconds and turn it on again.
But, it does sound like you've done that, so ?????
If you set it to gas only and turn it on, do you hear the sparker thing 'clicking' trying to lite the gas? It'll go for about 10-15 seconds before it shuts off and you have to start over again.
Other than that, it's anyone's guess until they can see it.
All those appliances run on propane for the main 'heating' element. But, they also need basic 12v power to run the circuit board that controls them.
In the case of the furnance, the fan or blower will use 12v power to run and that will drain the 12v system pretty fast if you don't have a way to recharge the batteries.
I didn't look at your U tube link, but I assume you are renting a class C or class A motorhome? If that's the case, they will usually have a built in gas powered generator that will provide 120v power. But, when renting, they charge EXTRA for generator hour use, so it's up to you how much you run them.. ;)
When you are camping with no hookups, you can't just use power, water and sewer like you were at home, so there has to be some changes made to your routine.
If you stay at full hook up sites, and know how your hookups work, you can waste all the resources you want! :)
You'll get a full lesson from the rental place on the utilities of the RV, but it'll still be a learning experience to go thru if you've never used them before and once you do, that's when you'll figure things out.. Maybe too late, but you'll figure it out one way or the other! ;)
I got the free 6 month trial with my new F150... Only listened to it a few times.. It won't work in the garage. It won't work when going under over-passes. How about being stuck in traffic and getting stopped under an over-pass.. SILENCE...
I had a cheap HD radio in my old F150 and I liked that more than the xm. Sure, you could only get the HD in populated areas, but at least it's free..
I just plug in my USB iPod and forget about it... Plays all the music I like and it plays wherever I'm at..
Oh, I took out that cheap HD radio from the old F150 and put the stock radio back in before I traded it, so I've got it setup in my garage, hooked up to my 1990's home stereo system and blast away on the "oldies" while I'm in my "Man Cave" and love it!
I'm still getting mail from xm to renew at these great rates, but I'm not interested..
ADCO Aqua-shed has been working for me over 10 years now... Looks like heck, with all the black streaks and MOSS all over it, but no tears and the zippers still work and still 'breaths' just fine... :)
It's parked under trees and I live in WA State, so that's why it has MOSS on it..
I've been saying I was going to get a new one for the last couple of years, but I just keep rolling it up and storing it and bring it out at the end of the season and go another year! :)
Good luck with whatever you get.
Hi Scott. I've got a 2003 Dometic that actually stated life in 2002 and I've turned it on/off between trips and then stored for the winter then turned on/off during the season again and repeated since the summer of 2002.
It always cools down and yes, it was part of that Dometic recall, but I never had the work done to it, since it didn't actually address the main issue of it having a too high watt electric burner and causing the tubes to crack, which could lead to the fluid leaking on the gas burner if that's what you happened to be running at the time it all leaked out...
Well, once I found out the fix only put in sheet metal to divert the leak and actually affected the cooling ability of the fridge, I choose not to do the 'recall fix'. So, I only run it on GAS whenever it's on (and have been doing that since I got the recall notices) and that's been a long time now...
At this point, if it goes out on me now, it just means I get a new one... ;)
I start mine about 2 days before I'm leaving for a long weekend trip, so I'll know if it's working or not before I leave. If it dies on me while I'm "camping", well, that's just bad luck and just buy a cooler and some ice and get thru the rest of the weekend! :)
At this point in my 13 year old RV's life, each year it comes out of winter storage and everything still works, is another year I don't worry about it! :)
A 2000 model year vehicle won't have any "official" payload rating for YOUR specific vehicle. That #3000 figure you see in the manual, is not YOUR rig. Unless it's a base model Burb? Do you have power 'everything', carpet, 3 rear seats, ect?? ;)
If so, you probably don't have #3000 of payload..
Best you can do is load up the family and get the Burb weighed. That will tell you where you are at now and subtract that from the trucks GVWR that should be listed on the drivers door jamb sticker.
That's gonna be your actual 'payload' left for the trailers tongue weight and whatever else you pack in it.
The other thing to consider is what is your actual towing performance expectations? Are you willing to put the pedal to the floor and pull 4000 rpms to go up the grades? If you have the 8.1L engine, you'll have power, but the mpg's might start to look a bit low... ;)
Are you ready for that?
Anyway, sounds like a great plan and wish I could do something like that! I don't have any kids, but that would be a great trip to be sure!
I am considering purchasing a 2003 ford f150 crew cab v8 4.7L 4x4 with a towing capacity of 6200 lbs. The TT I am interested in has a 5700 lb GVWR (I think dry is 4200). Is this too much weight for the truck?
Thanks in advance for your help,
IMO, yes and no.. :)
Yes, if you are one that has to heed to not exceeding your trucks GVWR/payload... No, if you don't mind being a 'tad' over those ratings and don't mind having to put the pedal to the floor when going up the grades and slowing down to around 50-55mph.
I towed a #5000 TT for over 12 years with a 97 F150 with the 5.4 and 3.55 gears and was a tad over it's GVWR/payload and traded it in for the 13 F150 in my sig with over 255,000 miles on it and never a problem... I only traded it because I owned it for 13 years and I wanted a new truck! :)
With my 13, it tows the same TT with ease, but that's only on the power end.. Handling, it's exactly the same as the 97 was. Very stable and no worries.
Essentially, it all boils down to what are YOU comfortable with towing? As was said before, the closer you get to any vehicles 'ratings', the closer to the edge you will be. At that point, it's just what you feel you are up to dealing with and your own comfort level..
It all boils down to what kind of camping works for you... If you need all the comforts of home and need to burn thru 60 gallons of water every other day, have at it!
When I'm at a FHU site, I use the water as I feel I need to. When I don't have a sewer hookup, I adjust the water usage so I don't have to dump until I leave.. I'm only a long weekend camper (Fri-Mon), so it's pretty easy to do..
But, I remember back in my teens and we didn't have FHU sites most of time and the rule was, you could use as much water as you wanted... YOU just have to haul it in and haul it out.. In other words, if you used 5 gallons of water to bathe, you hauled that 5 gallons in and hauled that 5 gallons out.. Then, it didn't really matter that you just took a shower when you sweated to haul it back out! :)
I was looking forward to continued posts as well, but as usual... Not gonna happen now.
From what I remember on one of them, he got jumped on pretty quick wanting to know what his credentials were and blah, blah, blah...
It could have been that the OP requested the post be deleted?? Why try to offer some information from years of experience, but get dumped on within a few posts before you even get out of the blocks..
If that's the case, I don't really blame him.. But, if it was just deleted because it was getting too "high school".. Well, I've removed posts I've made too because of that..
Be nice people.. Maybe, just maybe, someone else might learn something from another's experience.. Not just YOURS.. ;)
Hi camp-n. In my case (Ford), there is no tow rating reduction with getting the optional wheel/tire package. Actually, you get an additional #100 of rear GAWR by actually getting the 20" wheels for my 2013 F150. I've got a #4050 RGAWR and I've seen where the 17" and 18" wheel F150's of the same year only have #3950 RGAWR.
Back a few years, I did see where you got a #500 tow rating hit if you got the larger diameter wheel/tire package from Ford. That is not the case now since around 2010, or maybe a few years earlier??
Anyway, in my owners manual, there is no distinction between tow ratings based on the size of the wheels. It's all about gear ratio, drive train, cab config and if you have the Max Tow option and/or the HD payload option.
I figured I'd be getting some LT tires after my first tow! But, I found that since the overall height of the tire is still basically the same as the 17" and 18" OEM tires of ~ 32" it's all about the load rating of the wheel/tire combo that matters now. My 20" wheel/tire combo is basically the same height as the standard 17" wheel/tire combo.. The diffence is the sidewall height of the tire. My 20" tires have a shorter sidewall height than the 17" tire has.
I like that... :) Not as much room for the tire to squirm around with a shorter sidewall.
Anyway, good discussion and I've learned a lot since I had an old 97 F150 with 16" wheels that I had to get LT tires because it had such a tall sidewall to make the 32" overall height that seems to be the standard "stock" height of tires coming out of the OEM.. Well, the Ford Raptor has 35" tall tires, but that's a totally different truck, right? :)
So, camp-n, are you saying that if it's an available OEM option it's still not "stock" if you drive that vehicle off the lot? My little ol' F150 XLT has the optional 20" wheels from Ford, so isn't that still a 'stock' truck in sense of the term?
By what you are saying, anything over a white, vinyl floor covered truck with roll up windows and manual door locks is "stock"... Which is what I call a "base" truck.. All of my trucks ratings is based on how it left the assembly line, and that was with the optional 20" wheels.
Mine does something similar when it's cold outside and the fridge cycles off/on while on propane.
I think it's the metal flue/tubes expanding after the burner turns on after it's been off for a little while.
My fridge will maintain a set temp by cycling the flame off/on. This is really only noticeable in the middle of the night when there are no other sounds. I can even hear the igniter turn on and about 10 seconds later, the little popping sounds for about a minute or so.
That "tow rating" does not necessarily mean a tongue heavy toy hauling travel trailer.. ;)
Look at the sticker on the trucks hitch and see what it says it's max load is... Probably will come in at around #1150 if that's what your actual "tow rating" is. I guess they upped the "properly equipped" 2015 F150 to be over #12,000 now??
Anyway, you'll have plenty of power. Where you'll loose out is with the other weight limits on the truck, like the hitch, axles and payload.
I only tow a #5000 TT and I'm within #400 of the rear axle rating and #600 of the trucks GVWR. Which, in my case is #7700, but you have a 2015 that is made out of beer can material, so it's a lot lighter to begin with.. ;)
Depends on how much the camper weighs and how much payload your truck has..
What's the little sticker on your drivers side door jamb say how much you load in your truck? It'll look like this, but have a number on it for your specific truck.
"tow rating" means nothing when you are hauling something in the bed of the truck.. ;)
Remember the old Buick V6 Turbo Regal/Grand National from the mid 80's... That thing stomped all over any N/A V8 of the day... They command a pretty good price from the the more popular auctions today too.. ;)
I had my share of V8 powered vehicles and I can only say my current 2013 3.5L Ecoboost F150 would walk all over any of them... :)
I have to admit, that I would not get the 2.7l if the 3.5l is still available, but that was impressive... But, it was only towing a #7200 flat bed car hauler... ;)
But, he still had to hold back to keep at the speed limit, since that's what they were trying to control in all of their tow tests...
Anyway, it all boils down to if you want a V8 or a not... For me, I was a V8 guy all the way... But, this little 3.5 Eco really puts a smile on my face every time I drive it.. :) :)