Figure about $700 per axle if you have 4x4.
But, a change from 3.55 to 3.73 is not very much and I'm sure you are just looking at the difference in "tow ratings" between the 2 gear sets...
Yes, the 3.73's give a better 'tow rating', but you still have the same payload and other weight limits on the truck, so it's not going to be a proportional kind of thing all around.. ;)
The actual difference is only a couple hundred rpms in direct or even OD between the 2. I had 3.55's on my 97 F150 and thought about changing to 3.73's, and while it would have been 'better', I would have had to do 2 axles (4x4) and the cost just did not justify it for me..
If you are really looking to be able to use different trans gears while towing for example, being able to hold OD better, or being able to stay in 3rd instead of shifting to 2nd on the smallest of grades, going to 4.10 would be a bigger change that you'll actually be able to feel and use..
That's just my opinion on the deal, and there are some that have done the 3.55 to 3.73 change I'm sure that are happy too...
But, like I said, if it's just to get to that magical "tow rating" figure... I'd not waste the money.. ;)
If you stay on 101 to Olympia, you can hit I5 at that time. If you take 104 to Bremerton, you'll end up on 16 which takes you over the Tacoma Narrows bridge and it's a TOLL Bridge going East.. I don't recall all the prices for going thru the toll booths, as I have a pass and can just drive thru and it's $4.50 a pop now.. I think the booths are $5.00 and if you have over 2 axles, it costs more.. (including what you are towing too)
I'd just do the 101 route, as that will have more to see anyway..
Good luck and enjoy!
That's what I got... :) (not the HD payload however.. For that, you'll have to special order and they only come in specific cab/bed/trim configs)
So, they are out there... Mine stickered for $43k. I got it for $33k with 35 miles on it January of this year. Right off the lot too.. Just sitting there.. :)
Spray the heck out of the door latch mech with WD-40 and then lube it with something like 3-in-one oil..
It'll then close like "butter"... ;)
And if it doesn't.... It might need some adjustment...
When my trailer was brand new, the door would not close without pulling the handle when you closed it... Lived with that for about 3 years before I did the oil thing and it's been closing normally ever since! That was about 9 years ago too.. :)
Got my Max Tow F150 for $33k... :) I see you are using that funny looking money from up North.. ;) So, maybe that's the difference?
Gotta say I had the old P2 in my 97 F150 and it was a damn good controller..
Got the OEM controller in the 13 and set the gain to your liking and it's smooth as glass when you don't need much brake, but it'll haul you down when you do need a lot of brake!
Good luck with the new ride!
What has been your maintenance schedule for the rad/coolant/engine in general?
Sounds like you have either old coolant, old T-stat, plugged rad or other??
Could even have a blown head gasket by the sounds of it??
As to the other oil cooling going thru the rad, that's normally fine, but if you are heating up like you are on the coolant, it's also heating up those other fluids too... Not so much the other way around.
I don't have an answer for you, but I had a similar experience with MiFi's connecting to laptops in my office. Using Windows 7 as well.
2 laptops would not connect to any MiFi with any consistency. When it did connect, it was so slow, it wasn't even worth connecting.
Other WiFi sources, those same laptops would connect just fine.
Talked to Verizon Support and he had me change the security settings on the MiFi and that seemed to help, but I didn't want to lower the security settings just for those 2 laptops..
Since the MiFi's worked on the other laptops just fine, I just didn't use those laptops when they needed to connect to a MiFi..
I've since replaced those laptops, so it fixed itself... ;)
I think some computers just have a hard time with the various security setups out there.. Even changing them, didn't really 'solve' the issue, as it was still spotty connecting, but when it did connect, it was a tad faster speed, but still not usable faster..
Just remember that the "tow rating" is based on a vehicle that has no additional passengers or stuff loaded in it and also assumes you won't exceed the vehicles other weight limits either.. I imagine you will be taking a passenger and some stuff along..
So, you can't load the vehicle to the gills and still expect to tow something even close to it's "tow rating"... ;)
My 22' trailer had a 'dry weight' of around #3400.. It now weighs every bit of it's #5000 GVWR and then some..
My guess is the trailer you have in mind probably has a GVWR of over #6000 and while it's true you might not ever get it to that weight, but let me know how the wife feels about having a ton of storage space and NOT being able to use it.... ;)
Ever take a look at your home closet if you share it with your wife.... ;) After 12 years with the same trailer, every nook and cranny is stuffed with something! :) (I'm just as guilty of stuffing it with stuff too, so it's not all the wife.. :) )
I'd pull the grades in 2nd gear going around 50-55 mph pulling around 3500 rpms with my old 97 F150 with a 5.4 and 3.55 gears towing a #5000 TT.. Worked for me...
I could have gone 60-65-70 if I wanted to.... I just didn't want to.. ;)
My rpms would have risen for each speed increase...
Traded that 97 with over 255,000 miles on it too and still running fine... :)
Now I tow the same grades, towing the same TT at 60-65 mph pulling around 2500-2800 rpms in 4th gear with the new Eco... :) :)...
Love my Eco.. :)
You probably mean a "tow rating" of #9500... Look at the PAYLOAD sticker on the truck and that's really what you can handle payload wise.. This is probably in the #1200-#1400 range and means that's all the weight you can ADD to the truck which includes additional passengers, stuff in the bed and most important, the tongue weight of the TT you hitch to it...
Those trailers you mention will likely have at least #800 TW to as much as #1200 once you get it loaded up... "Dry weights" for TT's and comparing that to the "tow rating" of your truck is usually a recipe for being overloaded on the truck... How much that overloads it and what your towing experience is is up to you to determine...
Most of us "seasoned" RVer's have learned this over the years by experience and more than likely, towing overloaded before and knowing what that's like! ;)
All you can do is tear out to the next "joist" and 'box' it in as best you can..
Gotta be able to get all the "cancer" out and still be able to keep the support all around.
You might be able to add your own additional support with additional cross "joists" to help keep the hole from getting too large...
I tried looking some 5 or so years ago and I couldn't find any.. Fleetwood has been out of the "Travel Trailer" manufacturing business for some time.
The front graphics on my 2003 Prowler died 5 years ago.. I just peeled them off and live with a blank front.
Once the sides go, I'll just do the same and eventually have a "white" trailer with no graphics at all.. ;)
Thanks Moss.. Yeah, I'm not gonna mess with it.. I have used 4x4 before when not towing in the rain when my tires were getting worn just to take off from wet inclines that I knew I'd just sit and spin on... Didn't spin a bit in those cases! Might need to remember that when I'm towing..
My trailer sits under trees and in the NW, so not much sun, but the front of the trailer has gotten enough sun to completely curl the front decals after about 10 years...
I cover it in the winter time when it sits for 7 months. Here is what the cover looks like after awhile..
I don't cover it when I'm using it once a month in the Spring/Summer because it is a PITA to cover/uncover...
I would not put a blue tarp on it no matter what... My tarp has zippers on the door side, so I just roll up a panel and it's accessible and what I use for an extra room even when it's covered.
I did that very thing to my trailer. It's 22' from hitch to bumper, so the camper part is only around 19' from end to end.
Here is what it looked like after removing the benches.
We also thought about adding chairs or a couch or something, but that wasn't going to work... Just not enough room.. So, I moved the existing benches end to end and that was the ticket for us.
After cutting out for the wheel well and finishing it up, it looks like this.
If we have to eat inside, we do this.
Works for us and gaining that extra foot of floor space makes a HUGE difference inside... We talked about doing this after the first year we owned it (2002), but didn't actually do it until 2010... DOH....
Best mod we've done so far, and I've done a LOT of mods! :)
Just what works for us.. No concern on 'resale' value, because it really would not take much to put it back to a dinette again (I still have the table and all hardware).
I turned my shower into a 'closet', so it's not an issue for me.. :)
I keep very clean with sponge baths, and having the wife do me and I her works out pretty good too.. ;)
Anyway............. Each to their own and whatever works for you is what you should do!
Thinking about it, the old 97 F150 spun the tires too on the wet too.. And it towed the trailer very stable too.
Lee, here in wa state the rural state weigh stations that are closed will turn the scale screen "out" so you can see it and the scales still work...
I did this on hwy 12 just as you are coming into Aberdeen on the way to Pacific Beach out of Olympia.
Yeah, the rig tows very well.. I'm using a standard EAZ-Lift WD setup and it tows straight and true. The tire spinning in the wet always made me think I had too much weight to the front, but it towed so well in the wind, passing semi's and being passed by semi's that I just left it.. I can't see changing it now with you guys comments.. And that's after towing this trailer for over 12 years and about 10 years of towing before that! :)
I've towed with my 13 F150 3 times now and it gets better with every tow!
This last trip I had the chance to stop by a closed weigh station and get my "hitched up" weights.. I thought about doing the whole series of weights, but decided after I got the hitched up ones, it really wasn't necessary... :)
Anyway, here they are
Truck Tot: #7040
Here is my sticker showing the various GWR's.
Since I'm not really close to any of the limits I didn't get the other weights... We were loaded for a long 4 day weekend trip, full 30 gallon water tank and truck bed with the usual camping stuff in it.
I think I might have too much weight going to the front however... There was some wet pavement and when I took off from a stop, the rear tires spun and I had to feather it to get traction..
This was after the weigh in, so now I probably should get it's unloaded and hitched, but no WD weights next time..
It tows great, but I guess with the extra power of the Eco, those rear tires don't have much of a chance! :)
I only use mine when it's being stored and not being used. It is a PITA to take off and put on between trips during the camping season. For me, that's only between May and Sept.
I don't have the time or $$ to camp year round, or else I would! :)
I do park mine under tress, so it's an essential thing to do when it's parked for 7 months out of the year...