So does the state of PA take responsibility if there is a bearing failure on a bearing they took apart, inspected, put back together and signed off on??
That just seems a bit too invasive for me... I mean, I'm very capable of doing a simple bearing repack, but in the state of PA, I have to let some yahoo do this for me to allow me to pull my trailer in the state of PA??
Guess what state I'll never live in... ;) Might as well just tell me I can't wipe my own A.... ;)
Please educate me on this, since this is the first I've heard of this...
Check out etrailer.com. They have wheel/tire combos in your size, but load range D.. That's #2040 max load per tire.
I have 13" tires on my trailer and the OEM tires were only LR B tires... I moved up to D tires in the same size and love the extra capacity, so no real worries..
Yes, they are "Made in China" tires... But, the only flat I've had in 14 years was with the original B rated Goodyear Marathon tires when it was brand new..
Anyway, upping the load range does not raise your sticker ratings, but it does raise the reliability of the tires IMO..
I cover mine for the "winter", which for me is around Oct-May..
Between May-Oct, I use it about once a month and don't cover it.
My trailer is parked under trees, so a cover is a no brainer for me.
Here is my old ADCO cover that's just been retired this weekend.. Gonna have to get a new one before the end of the season! It lasted a solid 12 years and was about 10 years old in this pic.
My first camping trip was when I was around 6 months old. This would have been around 1964.. Mom and Dad didn't even have a tent... On the ground with lots of blankets and just the stars above.. :)
Graduated to sleeping bags, to an Army surplus tent to a 8' slide in camper on Dad's brand new 1971 F250 (that he still owns to this day) to a 12' Shasta trailer to a 26' Taurus trailer. By that time, I was out of HS and started my own camping adventures back to just sleeping bags under the stars.. :)
Continue to this day with the rig in my sig and love all the time I can spend in it with my wife. She loves getting out as much as I do, so it's all good.
Thanks for bringing up this topic, as I always like to reminisce about all the wonderful times camping has brought to my life.
Not sure how a bottle jack is gonna 'tip', unless you don't chock the other wheels, or if it's still attached to the TV and you actually use the parking brake... :)
I can't count how many people I see park their vehicle, and NOT apply the parking brake... But, that's not the point of this thread.. ;)
Scissor jacks work just as well too, so choose your poison and go with it..
I have #5000 scissor jacks on all 4 corners and can and have raised one side with the rear ones... No issue at all for me.. But, I've only got a 22' TT, so if you have a 30'+ one, might not want to do that.. :)
But, the factory tow vehicle scissor jack should work just as well.
It's usually not the pump that is "loud", it's the water lines attached to it that vibrate on the floor or where ever they are attached to..
Ever hear a pump run when it's empty? It's actually very quiet...
It's the water thumping thru the lines that make all the noise.
I insulated my lines coming from the pump, as well as adding a 2' length of looped hose before it goes to the main lines to also help insulate the noise.. Sure, it still makes some noise, but I kinda like that, just so I know when it's running and when it's not...
This is the same jack I've had in my truck for basically 'forever'.. I don't even remember how old it is, but I've had it for a loooong time..
For me, I find that focusing on just the trailer tires using the mirrors gets me backed up straight or making tight corners the easiest..
The trailer is only going to go where the tires go, so if you watch those and steer accordingly, it usually works out. You still have to watch where the front of the truck is of course, so it's a dance between looking forward, looking back in the mirrors.
Anyway, as for initiating the turn, I try to get the trailer going the direction I want, and that's usually not more than a full turn of the wheel. Then I start to "follow" it by straightening out the wheel and adjusting as needed depending on where the trailer tires are going and where I need it to go. Easy, peasy.. :) Ha, ha.. Lots of practice too... :)
I don't mind using my trailer that's parked on the side of my house as an extra guest room for family/friends that might visit us. We have a guest room in the house too, but sometimes, we get multiple visitors...
But, I know these people and they know me, so we all have a common understanding of each other.
If renting it out works for you, that's great. I see no reason to not do it if you don't see any reason to not do it..
Thanks SoCal.. I can see and touch the lower rad hose, but it's not like any hose I've worked on before.. No traditional hose clamp.. It has a plastic elbow and the hose part just attaches to it.. Then it splits off with 2 smaller hoses to the oil filter adapter (integrated oil cooler as such).. My 97 F150 had the same setup, but it used good ol' hose clamps on the ends!
I'm sure it's some quick connect type of deal and I do have a shop manual for it, so I should read up on it and that might just be what I have to do to drain it! :)
I'm in WA state and if I'm not near any kind of "large city", I don't get nothing on over the air TV.. Even on the coast, I get nothing..
I rely more on the radio or my cell phone for weather.. I can get far more cell phone connection than TV at almost anyplace I go.
I just did a quick 'drain and fill' on my 13 F150. I didn't want to mess with taking the pan off, so I used a vacuum pump that connects to an air compressor that has a one qt reservoir on it.
The new F150 does not have a trans dip stick in the traditional sense.. You have to crawl under it and remove the fill plug and that's where the dip stick is...
Anyway, I just sucked out what fluid I could. Only 4 qts, which seems a bit low, but that's all I could get out..
Put 4 qts of fluid back in. I used a 5 qt jug and I have a hand pump that screws to the top of the jug. Pretty easy really.
Only have 34,000 miles on the truck, but feel if I do this around every 30,000 miles, it can't hurt.. It's supposed to go to 100k miles per the manual, so that's my reasoning.
I do the same thing with the coolant too.. Try to drain and fill well before it's time, just to keep some fresh stuff in there..
Haven't done the coolant yet, since I haven't been able to get to the drain plug on the rad... (I can "see" it, but can't get enough of a grip on it to open it!)
Anyway, that's my routine and works for me.. :)
While a semi-floater is fine for it's rated capacity, I have never liked them.
I have made sure every 3/4 ton PU I have owned had them. Ford chose to cheap out and put them in many 3/4 ton PU and Vans.
So did Chevy and Dodge... ;)
So glad I can't lock my trailer without the keys to begin with..
I know that does not help you at all.. I also can't lock myself out of my truck since it has a keypad lock on the outside..
You took over #300 off the front end. Added #980 to the rear axle with the WD attached, so I'd think you need to move a bit more off the rear axle to the front and you can only do that by adding more tension to the WD bars.
Not sure what WD system you have, but if you are talking about moving brackets, I'd have to guess you have the Equal-I-Zer hitch setup.
You might be able to tilt the hitch head back by a few degrees. That will put more tension on the bars without having to move the brackets.
With a WD setup, you also move some of the weight to the trailer axles, so that's why it's hard to say what your actual "tongue weight" is..
It's heavier than #640, but without knowing how much it took off the front end and added to the rear end without the WD bars attached, it's only a guess..
It really only takes basic hand tools for the brackets, but might require larger size sockets for the hitch head adjustment..
Depending on your DIY skills and tool box collection will determine if you can/want to do this fine addjustment yourself.
No, not saying that at all.... It'll pull pretty much whatever you want to hitch up to it...
What I was trying to say is that you could make a ONE TIME TRIP with even the heaviest trailer on your list and get it to your site as long as you didn't take anything or anybody with you on that initial trip..
If you are looking to take your current truck and any one of those trailers on your list on family camping trips, then you might want to reconsider either the trailer or the tow vehicle.
Just cause you get a new TV with a "V8" in it, might still not be enough truck to make for a comfortable tow..
Grab your dogs tail and you can pretty much tug, pull, move side to side on it and what does the dog do? (well, hopefully, not BITE you.. ;) )
But, you get the general idea, right?
3 choices I think you have right now.. Buy the trailer you want now. You already know you want to take it to a seasonal site for at least a year. So, use your current truck and take it up there all by yourself, turn around and come home and start your seasonal camping adventure after that and enjoy.
Rent/borrow/steal a bigger truck to take the whole family and your stuff along for the first trip, enjoy your time, go home and use your current truck or car to enjoy the rest of the year.
Bottom line is, your current truck is not going to be up to towing either of those trailers on a regular basis loaded to the gills with your family on board..
No matter what the "tow rating" and "Dry" trailer weights say you can...
We have all been there and done that and are only telling you from our own experience.
If you wish to find that out on your own... Well, that's what you gotta do and then you'll know for sure. ;)
Personally, I'd probably take my option of getting the trailer of your dreams.. Tow it to your site totally empty, with no one else in the vehicle and use that learning experience to shop for your next truck so you can take all your stuff and the family along with the trailer of your dreams..