Are you getting gas to the stove top?
When you turn the HW swtich off/on, do you hear a 'clicking' at the HW and is there at least a spark attempting to light the gas?
You should also hear the solenoid valve on the gas line open just before the igniter starts sparking.
Could still be the switch itself, so it won't hurt to start there either..
Going over the pass to Eastern WA with a #5000 TT and my old 97 F150 with the 5.4 was a good tow.. I was in second gear and pulling 3500 rpms and going 55 mph, so it was fine..
Towing the same TT with my 13 Ecoboost I'm in 4th gear, pulling around 2800 rpms going 60 mph.
You'll need more rpms with the 5.0 (it has more power than the old 5.4) compared to the Eco, but you'll get up the hills as long as you don't mind pulling in the higher rpm range while going up the grades.. You will probably be in 3rd gear and pulling around 3500 rpms to go 55-60 mph.
It's still all guesstimates of course, as no one can determine your towing comfort level and what you consider a "comfortable tow"..
Will you be under "ALL" of your trucks weight limits with that trailer? Who knows?? But my own opinion is you'll be maxed out on GVWR/payload for sure.. I'm within #600 of my trucks GVWR and only #400 from my trucks rear GAWR with just a #5000 LOADED TT and I've got the Max Tow F150 with an Ecoboost.. :)
So, until you get some actual truck weights to find out where you are and go from there, it's only guesstimates..
Sounds like the 'infamous' rear end clunk... It's generally the slip yoke in the trans and occurs when the rear end twists up slightly under load (Think of a mild case of axle wrap).
On the newer F150's with long wheelbase, it's a 2 piece drive shaft and it's occurring in the mid section of the drive line.
Don't have it with my 13 F150, but it did occur with my old 97 F150. It fixed itself after I got the aftermarket overload springs for it, as that helped the axle wrap issue it had as well as it's sagging when loading anything in the bed..
Did you miss the part where I said "ignore the tow ratng"?? ;)
You can't load up your truck to the gills and still tow a #9800 TT AND still remain under ALL of your trucks other ratings... :)
That tow rating assumes a single driver and an XL model truck without the tailgate, spare tire and some other things you have on your truck... ;)
It's called "Marketing" and not real world..
My truck has the #11,300 rating and my #5000 loaded TT makes it only #400 away from it's rear GAWR and #600 from it's GVWR... That's the math I go by.. :)
That's one great Son-in-Law to let you tow your #6400 dry weight TT with his Tundra! ;)
I'm sure it's towing it just fine, but I'm also sure it's over one or more of it's other weight ratings (either GVWR, GAWR or payload)...
My wife's only driven my new F150 once! ha, ha! :)
Anyway, I saw your posts on the other Ecoboost thread and can only say if you want to tow that kind of weight, get the 3.73 gears at least because you'll need the Max Tow package at the very least if you want any hope of staying under payload, GVWR ratings on the truck..
The Eco will have no problem towing the weight.. It's how much tongue weight you have and how much payload and rear axle weight you have left.
I tow a #5000 GVWR TT (#3400 DRY) and I'm within #400 of the rear axle rating and #600 of the GVWR of my Max Tow F150 with #7700 GVWR and #4050 rear GAWR..
I have a #11,300 "tow rating"... ha, ha!
Anyway, I have the 3.73 gears and get 17 mpg on my daily commute and have gotten 21 mpg on straight hwy runs going 65 mph.
There are many folks that tow 30+ foot, #8000+ lb travel trailers with their NON max tow Ecoboost F150's and are happy... I can certainly feel my #5000, 22' TT behind mine and it's a great tow to be sure... I'll tow it anyplace, anytime..
Can you tow your TT with an Ecoboost? Sure you can... Don't expect any better mpg's doing it than the Tundra, but you should be better mpg with the Eco not towing as long as you stay out of the turbos.. It's pretty hard to NOT enjoy the fun of the power of them, but it'll cost you in mpg's.. :)
Yes, you'll need a WD hitch setup for sure.. Any trailer you look at will have over #500 TW, but you can usually get that as a package deal with the new TT from the dealer or get one on your own.. That's going to be it's own tread, or you can search the site and read for WEEKS on the many different brands and types!
Along the lines of what you load in the truck, I pack HEAVY... ;) I take so much stuff that I don't even use, it's laughable... BUT, when I need that stuff, it certainly comes in handy..
I've helped out camping neighbors with tools and extra hands for things and I've needed my own tools and such to fix my own stuff.. I just had the gray tank DROP off it's mounts while in camp... Fixed it on the spot and it's actually better than it was before now! :)
Anyway, I've packed more than #1500 of stuff in my little 22' trailer.. That includes the extra "mods" I've done and I like cooking with cast iron pans too!
I carry a full load of water (30 gallon fresh water tank) and take along bottled water and whatever else I want to have while "camping".. :)
I've tent camped and bought a TT so I don't have to limit myself in what I can take, so I've paid my dues! :)
Just know that towing a full sided TT is different than a boat trailer and that "tow rating" does not specify what kind of trailer you are towing..
Yes, GVWR is fully loaded WITH all your stuff included.. Dry weight is before you put your first beer in the fridge and also filling the propane tanks, water tank, etc...
Bunk house is the way to go for own beds and you'll need at least 3 of them by the sound of it.. ;)
It can be done, but you'll have to give and take on either the trailer size/weight or the trucks payload and axle weight ratings. Going over GVWR or even the payload rating is not a deal breaker in my mind, but you don't want to go over the trucks rear AXLE weight rating if you can help it...
Jbird, you want to look at this sticker..
I think you already have if you say you have "#1637" payload??
Anyway, forget the "tow ratings"... They assume a bone stock truck (ie, not what your truck is) and that you don't carry any passengers or stuff in the bed..
With that said, look for trailers in the #6000-#6500 GVWR range and you will be okay for the most part and can load whatever you want in it..
If you look at trailers with #6000-#6500 DRY WEIGHTS, you will have to limit what you pack and it won't be an enjoyable tow IMO..
I'm towing a #5000 GVWR TT with my F150 and I can tell it's there... So, those that say they "don't even know it's there" is full of it! ;)
You are wise to do this checking first! :) Don't fall for the hype of the tow ratings and the trailers dry weights and "half ton towable" claims... You might get a great trailer, but it might not be that much fun to tow...
There are lots of trailers out there.. For a family of 5 "to have their own space" in an RV is asking a lot!! Not really gonna happen with anything less than a 30+ foot rig and even the lightest of them will push the limits on your truck.. Well, as long as if you want to stay UNDER the trucks weight limits... ;)
You can move just about any trailer you care to hitch up... It's what and how much over the trucks OTHER ratings you are willing to overlook.. ;)
Good luck and have fun in the search!
Not sure on the Trail Manor, but in my full sided TT I can't stand up full height in my trailers shower by a good amount, but I'm 6'3". The shower is raised about 2-3" above the floor in mine (it's tub as well). I can stand up with inches to spare in the trailer itself. I have to duck to get out the front door however..
I've never taken a shower in my trailer, as it's just not big enough and works much better for storage.. :)
The next thing to do is find a Trail Manor dealer and check them out in person.. ;)
I looked at them before buying our TT and didn't care for them one bit.. I didn't even get to the bathroom before I exited it... Just not what I wanted and the used ones I looked at cost more than the brand new full sided trailer I ended up with (and still own to this day).
Good luck with the search and I hope you find the trailer of your dreams! :)
If you haven't already changed out the OEM front rubber brake lines to the caliper, do that first... Even if they 'look' fine and don't leak, when you press on the brake, they actually expand and you don't get as much pressure to the calipers. I changed them on my old 97 F150 and it made a huge difference in the braking power.
As to how many miles you get out of a set, your running loaded most of the time is gonna wear them quicker for obvious reasons.. You might just have to try various pad materials and see what's going to work best for your application. I've heard good and bad things about the ceramic pads. I'd try a semi-metallic brand after the new brake lines and see how it goes..
I agree, seems all the V8 1/2 tons get around the same MPG.
So does the little 3.5L twin turbo V6 that puts out as much (or more) power as the gas V8's.. Once you get into those turbos, it's gonna suck the fuel, but it sure is nice only pulling 2800 rpms going 60 mph up a 6% grade with plenty of pedal to spare... :) :)
Mine gets used as an "extra room" all the time with the cover on it during the Winter... I can unzip and roll up a portion to expose the door and I just plug it in for electric and a space heater and that keeps it warm.. No water in it, so they can only use the toilet for "#1" and that is fine..
But whatever floats your boat... :) Cover or not is completely up to the individual and it works for some and not so much for others... ;)
There is no "one solution solves it for everyone" situation, so take the answers given and go from there for your own situation.. :)
Others that have them admit they have a lot less engine braking while descending grades. Of course we don't have any wind in WY so guess wind wouldn't be a problem. LOL. Last trip in Feb South Pass was closed so we went around through Rawlins and encountered 60 MPH cross winds.
Well, cross winds flip over SEMI's, so you just have to judge the road conditions and your rig at that time and go from there... There is no manufacture spec for 60 mph cross winds, except for your own common sense... ;)
Mine has so much downhill braking, I have to disengage T/H and then I select shift a gear that's appropriate for the grade (usually 4th or 5th) and then just tap the brakes as needed...
I'd rather do that and go a respectable speed then just the lowest gear it needs to go down the hill not touching the brakes at all... ;)
I know how to manage the brakes and between using the trucks brakes and just the trailer brakes, I can keep a nice downhill pace and not fade anything... :)
Just have to have some common sense about it and not ride the brakes and also slow down as needed by using the engine..
Whatever... :) Hate the "half ton/ecoboost" all you want and just don't get one.. Pretty simple.. You are obviously a 1 ton guy and nothing wrong with that... :) Those that have the Eco's and tow within the specs of the truck know the score and those that say it's not up to snuff, well, they need to re-evaluate their situation and go from there.. :)
It's all good.. Mitch
WyoTraveler, The Eco does pull grades with ease and will do it going 60 mph while pulling around 2800 rpms in 4th gear. If you want to go 65 mph, you'll be closer to 3000 rpms and not even close to the floor with the pedal.
The smallest size wheel that can go on the new F150's is a 17" wheel and the 4 wheel discs are huge.. Even with my 20" wheels, the brakes fill the hole..
With the Tow/Haul feature going down hill the trans will downshift to lower gears as you tap the brakes, so if you don't mind winding out over 3500 rpms, you won't have to hit the brakes much at all..
It's hard to believe a little 3.5L engine torque peaks at only 2500 rpms and that's over 400 lb/ft of torque too... :)
Bash it all you want.. Until you have driven one, you will never know the truth.. :)
Love mine, but I'm only towing a #5000, 22' TT... It's well under all of it's weight ratings and tows this trailer a lot easier than the 97 F150 with the 5.4 did and I thought it towed the same TT great! :)
The MaxTow gets you some additional GVWR (#7700) and the #1150 TW class 4 hitch (with WD) among other things like tow mirrors and 3.73 rear gears.
I'm getting better mpg all around with the Eco compared to the 5.4 and the power of the Eco is so much more than the 5.4, it's not even close...
I'm in WA State and it sits under trees at my house when it's not in use.. Here it is just before I uncovered it for the upcoming camping season a couple of years ago...
The cover was probably 7 years old at this point... I've still got the same cover and it's still just as dirty..
But the trailer is as clean as it was when covered 6 months before, so it works for me... :)
Note that all that green stuff on the cover is MOSS... And not to mention all the black streaks that would have been on the trailer if not for the cover..
Works for me.. :)
My F150 has the "gallons used" meter, and it's typically about .1 to .3 lower than the pumps on fillups. It's also been 'bang on' a couple of times compared to the pump gallons.
On my last camping trip of over 650 total miles and some 53 some odd gallons of gas (going by memory now, but I calculated it at home), the total amount the meter was off from the pumps was .3 less than the tickets.
Good enough for my books! I don't bother to keep record of it anymore and just go with the meter and just compare at fillups. As long as it remains constant I'm going with the meter.. If it starts getting more than 1 gallon off, then I'll re consider..
Your mileage may vary.. :)
Alfred, That's why I go to an exchange place where I can peek into the cage and look for the newest dates and when the exchange takes place, I request the one I want... I too was given an old one, but I looked at it before accepting and asked if I could get a newer one.. He didn't care and let me take the newer one..