I just can't wrap my head around 2.7 liters...about 165 cubic inches...in a truck, pulling 1000's of pounds of trailer.
I know, it's turbocharged. I wonder how hard it would run, in the Rockies, with it's full tow rating...or maybe more (as some people are bound to do) weight.
After a full towing schedule, let's say for the first 5-10 years of it's life...what shape will it be in...for second hand buyers, down the road ?
I'm sure Ford engineers checked all these things out, beforehand.
It's just me....wondering about small engines...doing big work.
The "big blocks" of the day didn't fair too well in the long run either... But, it's all relative.. ;)
Dad's 1971 F250 with the 390 in it needed to be replaced at about 125,000 miles around 1983 or so, not because it blew up or anything, but it was just plain wore out.. He had to replace that engine recently because it had a cracked block, and it only had about 25,000 'easy' miles on it, not towing much of anything after it was "retired" from towing duties around 1989..
My 97 F150 with a 5.4 went over 255,000 miles and was still running strong when I got the 13 F150. Towed a lot of miles with it too.
My 13 3.5 Eco walks all over that old 5.4 and does it pulling a lot LESS rpms while going MORE mph pulling the same TT up the same 5-6% grades..
Would I get the 2.7 Eco over the 3.5 Eco? Probably not.. But, by the time the 13 gets as old as my 97 did before I traded it, it'll be around 2030, so they probably won't even be using internal combustion engines by then... :)
WOW, thanks for the responses. I really do appreciate the help. The trailer is for 2 people and my truck is equipped to handle mx trlr weight of 9500# and a GCWR of 15000#. The only thing I am really concerned about is the tongue weight of only 600# w/o getting a weight distributing hitch.
Again, thanks for the help!
You ain't getting anything over a #6000 TT without needing a WD hitch with a 1500 series truck... I use one for a #5000 TT..
Oh, and that #9500 "tow rating" does not necessary mean a tongue heavy RV either.. ;)
As far as slide out or not.. Totally personal choice.. I've only got a 22' trailer and don't have a slide and it's just fine for 2 of us.
Do I like the rigs with slides in them? Sure, they are great! But, I've got the rig I've got and it's paid for! :)
I'm outside under the awning, even when it's raining out. I come in when it's windy and cold out, but I've also wrapped the sides of the awning with tarps to keep with wind and rain at bay and my Mr Heater going to stay under the awning! ;)
I mis-read the first posts weight numbers... I thought the dry weight was #7500. Since that's the GVWR, you should be okay if you pack light...
Now, the reason that does not work for me is that i don't pack light... I pack as much stuff as a rig can hold! I also like to load up the bed of the truck with stuff that I "might need".. ;)
So, that's just me and the way I "camp".. Other's don't carry anything and that's fine too.
If getting the max size trailer is more important then being able to load it to the gills and not worry about it, that's fine..
I just know if I had a nice big trailer with lots of storage space and then I told my wife she can't pack anything in it, because it'll be too heavy, I'd get an ear full of something! :) Beside, like I said, I'd be packing so much stuff in it myself, that it just won't work for me to go 'light'.. :)
Towing a #7500 DRY TT with a #7200 GVWR 1/2 truck is not going to be fun, no matter what the numbers say.. ;)
Just cause the "tow rating" of that #7200 GVWR truck is over #8000 has no bearing on a travel trailer... That's NOT what the truck towing rating is considering.. ;)
I wouldn't tow that weight trailer with my #7700 GVWR MAX TOW equipped F150... My truck has a "tow rating" of over #11,000 too... ;)
I'd tow a #7500 "wet" trailer all day long with my truck.. :)
Right now, I'm towing a #5000 "wet" trailer and it's a dream to tow! :)
Towed the same trailer with a 97 F150, but it only had #6250 GVWR and I was over that, but it still did well..
But, I've been towing trailers of all sorts of configurations and combos for over 35 years (I'm only 51), so I have some "experience" to look back on... Some of those combos was maxed out on the truck and I was lucky to get to my destination! Other's I went coast to coast with and enjoyed the whole trip. (work related, so it was 14 hour days driving by myself!)
Now that I only tow a TT to "relax", I like towing a rig that does not stress me out and wish I was off the road... With my current combo, the road trip usually ends too soon! I love towing with a rig that I don't have to stress about... :)
Good luck with whatever you get!
My old 2003 Prowler 722F has been paid off for about 8 years... I've had folks walk up to my door and ask if I'd be willing to sell it.. I've never asked what they are offering, because I don't want to sell it! :)
I've got it fixed up the way I like it and it's still tight as a frogs A** :)
Sure, the new trailers out there are very nice and the floor plans are great, but parting with 20+ grand at this time is just not gonna happen!
I'll drop $$ for new appliances before I buy another trailer..
I've got a 3000 Honda and it ain't going with the trailer if I sell it.. I use it for my house when the power goes out..
It's supposed to be a "year round" reservation park, so if the dot is green, it's open. If it's red it's reserved already.
You can reserve up to 9 months ahead of time, so if you are trying now and it's all red... Well, there you go... :)
Early in the week you can probably get a site pretty easy (Mon-Thur). You will probably find that your site is reserved from Fri thru the weekend and you'll have to move sites.
That's pretty much how all the Wa State Parks go these days.
If you put 100 lbs in a wheelbarrow, it has 100 lbs in it (think of that as your tongue weight).
Now, lift up on the handles and what are you doing? You are distributing that 100 lbs between the front wheel (the vehicles front axle) and your legs (the trailer axles).
Has the original 100 lbs load in the wheelbarrow changed? No, it still weighs 100 lbs. (just as whatever your tongue weight is, it's still the same after applying a WD hitch)
You can reduce the amount of "payload" that is being applied to the vehicle because some of that payload is going to the trailer axles (your legs in the wheelbarrow example).
So, with your #700+ tongue weight trailer, lightening it up is only going to make for a lousy tow because it's now gonna sway on you...
My F150 has #7700 GVWR, but only #4050 rear GAWR.. Towed the same #5000 TT with a 97 F150 with only #6250 GVWR and #3200 rear GAWR...
Needless to say, I was over on both, but towed it for about 12 years and never a problem.
Right, wrong, whatever.. It was my choice to do it I felt comfortable and enjoyed the tow and never felt unsafe.
Current truck tows the trailer even better and I can tell a difference, but it's mostly the power of the new truck compared to the old one.. Not so much the handling. That's not much different at all.
Anyway, it's all up to you what you do.. Someone else on this site keeps posting questions asking what they should get and we've all posted our opinions, but it just keeps going round and round.. ;)
Good luck with whatever you decide! :)
The first thing to learn about backing up is to make sure you are a good backer with just the truck.. Try backing up the truck into a stall by just using your mirrors. Once you "master" that, adding the trailer part might be a bit easier..
The other trick I use is once you get the trailer going the direction you want it to go then straighten out the wheels and start "following" the trailer and turn the wheel to fine adjust where it's going. If it's not going where you want it, stop. Pull forward and start again. Don't keep trying to adjust as you backup and turning sharper and sharper... You'll just keep getting off more and more... ;)
Also, watch the inside trailer tires and that's also where the trailer is going to go.. Don't worry about the back end of the trailer, as that's many feet away from the tires where the trailer is going to pivot on anyway. Yes, you still need to be aware of where the back end is, so you don't hit anything... I'm just saying, don't rely on it for when to turn.
Other than that, it's just practice! :)
I still work 9-5 and will be for some time... I "RV" to get away from the house for a long weekend and forget the office and just relax for a bit.. :)
We kinda go to the same places now, sticking to our favorite state parks where we can reserve the site we like and not worry about getting in.
I also just like towing with my F150 and wish I could do more of it, but it does get kinda expensive to do year round, but for the times I get to do it, I love it! :)
Plus, no chores for a weekend!
Get your truck weighed and find out the individual f/r axle weights and that will tell you how much of that #6400 GVWR you have left.
If by what you ask about "tow safely" that you want to stay UNDER your trucks ratings, that's gonna be hard to do with a #6500 DRY weight trailer. There are more ratings than just the "tow rating".. ;)
Your actual HITCH ratings does not mean what your truck is rated to haul either.. That sounds like a pretty stout hitch, so that's not going to be your limiting factor.
I towed a #5000 GVWR TT that put my old 97 F150 over it's GVWR by a bit and it was only #150 less than yours.
For the 3.5 Eco, you don't get 420 torque at only 2500 rpms for nothing.. ;)
But, once you learn how to drive it, you CAN get decent mpg's and not having to drive like an 83 year old all the time... :)
That's just my experience with one that I bought off the lot and over the last 12,000 miles have learned what it likes and does not like to get decent mpg's when needed, and what it likes and does not like towing and what it likes and does not like when having FUN with it... :)
I've never felt the need for any additional "sway control" on my setup. I have decent TW % and the axles on my trailer are located on the rear 1/3 of the trailer, so with them being 2/3 of the way back from the hitch, I've never experienced "sway".. Even with high winds, being passed by semi's, a couple of emergency maneuvers, going down hill....
Folks swear by those add on friction sway devices that you add to your setup. Others swear by the WD hitches with "built-in" sway control, like the Equal-I-Zer's or Dual Cams or others and they are all fine depending on what your rig needs.
My EAZ-Lift only cost $250 back in 2002. Not sure what they cost now, but it's been a perfect setup for me.
I've been towing trailers for over 30 years, so I've found out that just loading them correctly makes most of the difference.. At least for those kinds of trailers that you can adjust the load..
TT's, you don't have that many options on how it's loaded because it all depends on how far back the axles are and where the storage is, or where the fresh water tank is and on and on..
Without really knowing more about the trailer you have in mind, it's hard to say one way or the other what you might need or not..
You will need WD for anything over #500 TW and #5000 trailer.
My 22' #5000 GVWR TT has around #650 TW and I use a #1000 EAZ-Lift WD hitch setup. Been using it for over 12 years and it works just fine for me.
Used it with my old 97 F150 and use the same setup with the 13 F150. The 13 has much more towing capacity than the 97, but I still need the WD setup..
The "installed towing system" you refer to is NOT a substitute for a basic WD hitch setup.. ;)
From just a quick tally of those that have responded to this thread only 2 actually OWN an F150 Ecoboost... There were about 8 that according to their signature didn't own one and there were about 4 that didn't have a signature...
I actually OWN one of these things and I do get the advertised mpg figures with it... :)
I've gotten 21 mpg on a 100% hwy run of about 160 miles and repeated on about a 200 mile trip.
On my daily commute to work of 18 miles, I'm getting 17 mpg. And that's with a lot of rush hour traffic both ways.
This is hand calculated figures too, but the computer has only been off by -.2 or -.3 on the actual pump gallons used, so the computers mpg figures are pretty close too.. ;)
I like to have fun with it too, so there are many freeway on ramp "boost" 0 to 60+ mph runs with it.. :)
All you haters just go on and hate and us folks that actually drive these things and actually have a good rig will just go about our way too... ;)
Sure, there is a lot of talk of those not getting great mpg's.. If I really wanted to, I can make this thing only get 12 mpg too!
Towing, I get 10-11 mpg and that's fine. The power is incredible and I'm saving a ton of $$ in gas compared to driving my old 97 F150 that used to avg 14 mpg on my commute and got a best of 17 mpg on the hwy...
The only thing I have found on the Eco I don't like is the Sync system... My microphone no longer works, but it's a warranty thing and I haven't taken it in yet. When it actually works, it's pretty cool... Mine just don't work too good at the moment.. :(
On edit, I see the article is about the 2.7 Eco... I've got the 3.5 so not the same thing... I would not want a 2.7 Eco... ;)
Sync also does not do well with the latest iOS update.. Ford says they are waiting for Apple to fix their own issues with it and not going to try to fix it on their end, as they say it works fine with the older iOS just fine.
The problem with mine is that the dang microphone won't work 90% of the time.. I can pair just fine, but when a call comes in, I can hear them, but they can't hear me. At the same time, I can't talk to Sync to control the phone or iPod...
I have the most current update for Sync and have reset and now I just have to take it in.. I still have 2 years of warranty left, so I'll do it eventually..