This is all I would have done at 77k miles if you don't know if they have ever been done before.
REAR AXLE SERVICE $229.95
TRANSMISSION SERVICE $219.95
COOLANT FLUSH $179.95
BRAKE FLUSH $109.95
POWER STEERING FLUSH $109.95
And of course an oil/filter change for the engine..
The only one that seems high on this list is the rear axle service, but it's an important thing and if you don't want to get your hand dirty... Well, there you go..
Glad to know I am saving a lot of money when I do those services myself... :)
I've wrenched on cars my whole life, so no big deal for me.. Really glad my Dad let me help him in the garage as a kid ( I'm 52 years old now). I spent my money in TOOLS pretty early on, so I've got a nice set now... :) Specialty tools you can usually rent, but you still have to know how to use them..
Now that I'm up there in years, and can afford to pay someone to do some of the less "fun" things now, I'll do that instead of get my hands dirty.. Just depends on my "mood" at the time and if I really feel like doing it or not..
Glad you figured out the way the switch over works. I love mine and it works great and wouldn't do without it. It's saved my fridge from shutting off many times! (I only run my fridge on gas).
One off topic comment.. The tank in your pic is expired... ;)
Surprised you can find a place to refill it? 12 years is what the life is on them, but if the place you go don't check.. Well, there you go..
Here is the official wording from the manual...
"The generator is a potential source of electrical shock if misused. Do
not expose the generator to moisture, rain or snow. Do not let the
generator get wet, and do not operate it with wet hands."
I've run my Honda 3000i in a small drizzle a couple of times, but it's a different design than the 2000i... My manual says the same thing as above..
I would not run it in a steady rain or downpour that's for sure.
You could always put it under a canopy if it's raining too? If the wind picks up, well.... That's your call too.. :)
I've got 12" 5 lug steel spoke wheels for my little 8' utility trailer and the spare tire I have for it measures 10.25" at it's smallest inside diameter where the center section of the wheel is welded to the outer rim part.
So, if your brake drums are actually 10" dia at it's widest part, they should work..
But, I think the actual 10" is the inside dia of the brake lining isn't it?
I just checked the 13" wheels I have for my TT that has 10" brake drums on it and there is approx .5" space between the wheel and the drum..
So, it'll be close for sure! Maybe get a set of 13" wheels and the smallest tire they make for it?? My 175/80/13 tires are ~ 24" tall, so maybe not enough to clear, but let a little air out of them and you might get that extra inch?
My 14 year old Coleman AC is still ice cold and I've run it for 14 hours a day, 3 days straight.. Once it gets cold in the trailer, it'll cycle on and off for the temp you have set. Just like your home AC unit.
Then it'll sit for a month and not get used at all while at home during the summer. Then it will sit all winter too.
Use it as needed and that's all you can do.
If your trailer is level and it's 17" from the ground to the coupler, that's what it is??
I've got my hitch head set on the lowest hole on my drop shank and my trailer sits level at 18".
This is my old F150, but I used the same hitch setup with my new F150 and this is where it works the best for me.
If your truck is taller, then you need more drop on the hitch.
Or you need to lift the trailer axles to get closer to your lowest hitch setting.
I'd just replace all 4 with the same brand and same age and be done with it..
Check out etrailer for their wheel/tire combos. That's what I've used for the last 2 sets of tires I've got from them. Great price and free shipping.
Now, I've just got to figure out what to do with 8 wheel/tire combos that are no good for road use and just taking up space behind my shed...
If the dash shows the trailer connected message and when you manually slide the bar over and just the trailer brakes engage, that means it's working.. That's what I do each and every time I move the trailer as I'm driving out to make sure they are working.
If you are going less than say 20 mph and just hit the truck brakes, you will get little if any actual trailer brake engagement.. That's what makes the system so smooth.
Try getting up to 40 and above, then hit the brakes harder, and you will feel the trailer brakes working.
Are you going to be taking the trailer in to the dealer too? They won't be able to do much if you just bring in the truck.
After confirming they updated the computer with the IBC stuff, and maybe hook it up to a laptop and check that, not much else they are going to be able to do.
Have you read your owners manual on the operation of the IBC? It's spelled out pretty well how you determine your optimum gain settings and what to do to test it all out.
Mitch, what brand of cover is that?
Adco. I don't remember the "model", but I want to say Aqua Shed..
One of the zippers finally gave up the ghost and it's just plain used up! Like I said, I got 10-11 solid winters out of it, so I'll be getting another Adco.
Here was mine when it was pretty new.
Here it is after about 10 years... Yes, this has lasted me over 10 years! Bet my trailer wouldn't look as good as it does, even at 12 years old.
Getting a new cover for it for this winter.. I don't cover in the summer time either.
Check the PCV valve or just replace it if it hasn't been done for awhile. It should rattle pretty freely when you shake it.
But, 1/2 qt in 3k miles isn't/shouldn't be a concern anyway.. I had a 5.4 Triton and that's about what it used. More when towing a lot. 255,000 miles on it and was still running strong when I traded it.
1 qt every 1000 miles is time to start looking for mechanical issues.
Can't close my garage door with the hitch in, so it comes out and just sits on the floor against the wall in the garage. The bars go on the same wall above the hitch on some brackets and just hang there out of the way.
Camping, I put it in the trailer coupler with the hitch lock and the same locking pin I use for it in the receiver.
The bars just go under the trailer. If on dirt, I put the ends on a piece of wood. If on a paved pad, they just go on the paved pad.
I then use a pad lock to lock the chains and the loop on the break away cable to the safety chains just so they don't grow legs and walk away..
All of this takes about a minute to do and it's done..
When it's time to hitch up, all the stuff is right there.
I dont plan on packing it heavy at all. I have the 18" tires i am actually looking to replace them with the new setup anyway. Would 20" be the way to go?
No do not go to 20" tires you will be hurting ( not helping) the final drive ratio.
Not necessarily the case.. Depends on the size of tire you get with either size wheel.
My OEM spare tire is an 18" wheel (LT275/65/18) My OEM 20" wheels came with P275/55/20 tires. They work out to be the same overall height, so there would be no final drive ratio change.
I got new tires recently in size XL275/55/20. The XL is for Extra Load and are a bit more stiffer than the P rated tires, so even better than the originals..
Good tires and most folks like 'em from what I hear... I've never personally had a set, but I've only been scared away from their price.. ;)
And the local Les Schwab Tires store I get my tires at don't stock them anyway..
No on the 20" tires if you don't already have them...
Get some LT C or D rated 18" tires and you'll be a lot better than the P rated 18" tires you have now.
I only mention the 20" ones because that's what I have and they were okay, but I like the XL rated ones much better because I could only get LR E LT tires and they are much heavier and more expensive!
The .373 version of my truck can do 9300 lbs wish it had that option at this point.
Even with 3.73 gears, it doesn't raise the trucks payload or axle ratings... So, yes, it's "tow rating" is higher, but you'll still be saddled with the same payload numbers and that's where you are at now..
It's only a #7500 GVWR trailer for Pete's sake guys....
Will your truck be maxed out on it's ratings? Yes..
Will it implode the moment you go a few pounds over the trucks payload? No..
The stock tires will have more capacity than the rear axles GVWR, so you will want to pay attention to that more than anything.
If they are still the OEM ones, you might consider some new ones anyway, but look for some LT rated tires if they are 18" ones. If they are the 20" ones, you can get some XL rated tires that do really well IMO. (I know, I've got a set and they are great!)
The 5.0 will need to rev, but it'll have plenty of punch when called on.
If you don't pack the trailer to the gills and don't load a cord of wood in the bed, you should be fine. Yes, you might be a tad over the payload, but that's a call only you can make.. If it bothers you, then you need a truck with more payload.. If not, and don't go overboard, you will be fine.
I've got the Karrier Load Star tires from etrailer.com in the exact size as you in the D load range (65 max psi) and I've never had a failure with them in the last 5 years I had them.. One tire did start to show side cracking, but that was mostly my fault, since I never covered them....
I just bought 4 more of these tires (mounted on white steel wheels) for $109 each and FREE shipping..
Swapped out my old spare tire that was 14 years old (but never has touched the ground) with one of the better looking ones from 5 years ago and calling it good!
The OEM tires were only LR B tires (35 max PSI), so these D tires have much more capacity than the GVWR of the trailer and they are still 13" tires. I run them at 60 psi.
No, I don't have room for 14" tires.. :)
But, I see no need for them anyway.
#4600 "tow rating" means you also don't really carry anything in the 'truck' either, so you might need to consider that too...
Not necessarily true. For instance, my Sienna has 1100 lbs of additional cargo capacity on the GVWR AFTER taking the maximum tongue weight into consideration (and it's not even a "truck"). The GCWR is simply the sum of the total tow rating, weight of the vehicle, and cargo capacity (1650 lbs), so the same is true for that number too.
From what I've seen, this statement actually applies to trucks, not "trucks", for the most part. (e.g. Some pickup trucks only allow for a 150 lb driver.) Nearly all of the minivans, and similar-platform SUVs, have substantially higher cargo capacity left over after adding the tongue weight. The pickups seem to do this so that they can advertise greater towing capacity, a selling point for them.
Also, a #3000 full sided TT is gonna have a lot more wind drag to it then say a #3000 pop up trailer..
Might want to check the 'trucks' front sq/ft area rating too...
This hasn't been a published limitation for most minivans and similar-platform SUVs for a long time. (e.g. It hasn't been true, for instance, for the Honda Pilot or Ridgeline since 2008.) As far as I know, it's never been true for the Sienna. There are recommendations (not the same as limitations) for most vehicles along these lines, including pickup trucks.
Anyway, it's still a pretty small and "lite" trailer in the grand scheme of things and you'll get down the road.. Just be prepared for it to work a bit more than normal driving. (ie: lots more rpms and probably a lot of having to mat the gas pedal to the floor.)
In all of the years I've been towing trailers with this minivan and the Ford WindStar I used before it (this one was bought used in 2009, and this is the second trailer it's pulled) I've only found one hill, a several-miles-long 11% grade that one has to start up from a dead stop at a traffic light at the very bottom, that I had to push the pedal all the way to the floor. Generally speaking, modern engines, including the six bangers in minivans and similar-platform SUVs, have quite a lot of power.
I don't work harder while towing. (Having a good hitch helps a lot here.) My minivan definitely works harder. The same is true for an F-350 towing at 90% of capacity. *shrug* Stay within the published weight ratings of the vehicle, and it's fine. (My minivan has yet to need anything other than fluid changes, new tires, and new brakes after ~40K miles of towing, 75K miles total. BTW - I put 160K on the WindStar with only 1 major repair - new rack and pinion at 120K.)
Caveat: I tow at 60mph, and never carry water in my tanks. (Many people here recommend that limit on speed while towing, regardless of vehicle.)
That said: If the actual weight empty is 4000 lbs - it's really not a good choice. If it weighs 3500 lbs empty, it's marginal but workable if one packs carefully. Less than that (which is very likely for a 17' trailer) would be better.
Given the sellers unwillingness to weigh it, I'd not be inclined to work with that seller. Weighing your trailer is something everyone should just DO, and be willing to do if selling to help the buyer make a good choice.
All good points atreis.. Guess I'm turning into those 1 ton truck guys that respond to 1/2 ton posts as only being grocery getters and can't tow anything over #5000... ;)
It's a new age now, and not all vehicles are created equal as us old timers like to think they are..
In the end, no one can 'advise' someone on something they don't have very much info on and if they let "personal prejudice" come into play, it just makes it even worse. There will always be assumptions made and it usually only makes for slightly entertaining reading! :)