Mine runs better on LP over electric. Stays colder and recovers faster from opening the door multiple times especially when it's hot outside.
I use electric to run the air conditioner and that helps too.. ;)
It gets a little tougher on steep grades where the truck can slow down to 35 to 40 miles per hour @2500- 3000 rpm
ummm... Yes, that happens... Bring it up to around 4000 rpms and you'll be fine and probably pulling near 55 mph.... ;)
But, if you like it at the lower rpms, that's fine too... Just don't think the truck can't do anymore, when it can... :)
I think you just need to pump up those tires to 44 psi when towing and see how that changes things. If it's still giving you those same feelings, you can try to 'tweak' your WD setup some.. You'll need to know some weights first, so you'll have to run it over a scale and get some actual weights.
Your truck probably weighs more than #5500 when it's hitched up and you 2 in it.. ;)
Probably close to it's GVWR which is probably around #7200.
How was the trailer loaded up? Was this the ride home from the dealer?
If the fresh water tank is above and/or ahead of the trailer axles, try filling it up and giving it a tow. The thought is that should raise your trailers tongue weight and that usually helps with keeping the trailer from 'wandering' around..
I don't think anyone is able to adjust their WD hitch the first time out of the gate... I made my first adjust to my hitch after about 3-4 tows and it made a big difference.. All I did was lower the hitch head one more hole and that was enough to make the nose of the trailer just a tad low in front, but the towing was much better after that.
My guess is that it might be in 3rd gear and you may even have the gear shift set to "3", but the TC is running 'unlocked' to be able to hold your speed??
One way to tell is while you are climbing the grade, give it some throttle and if the rpms rise a bit (couple hundred rpms), but you don't gain any appreciable speed, the TC is unlocked. If you do that and the rpms don't move and it sounds like you are bogging the engine, then it's locked.
My old 97 F150 would do that at times in either 2nd or 3rd gear. If I was in 2nd and it was unlocked, if I put the pedal to the floor, it would lock the TC and I could see the trans temp go down as I drove the remainder of the grade. If it was in 3rd, it would simply downshift to 2nd because I don't have a "3" on the gear lever (it was D, 2, 1).
Yes, I do know that because when I get them filled after I empty them, they fill at around 4.5 gallons. They don't fill by weight around here.
When brand new tanks cost over $30 plus you still have to pay to fill it, why is $24 (including sales tax) for a new tank AND some gas in it a bad deal?? (yes, I know they probably only have 3 gallons in it) Takes all of 5 minutes for the deal and re-cert tanks are only good for another 5 years I think and I don't see as many places that re-cert as I do the exchange places or refill stations.
Anyway, it's what works for me and perfectly legal and environmentally responsible so that's my reasons.
REALLY you feel this is the right thing to do is stick someone else with YOUR problem. There are lots of other good ideas, or just pay the Darn fee.
Yes, I do because if you knew how the exchange process works, you'll know that if the tank is in good shape, they refurbish it and inspect/re-certify them. If the tanks do not pass, they simply scrape them and reinvest the scrap fee.
If they didn't want my old tank, then they should not take it in the first place. I'm not hiding anything about the fact that it's reached it's 12 year mark.. I'm not one that exchanges when the tank gets empty, so I want a tank with a good 10-11 years of date left on it.
My old tanks work perfectly well, it's just that they reached their 12 year mark and those exchange places are set to refurbish and re-certify.
I think it's a 'win/win' deal for all involved.
This is what I did with mine. I built the box first. Put the car stereo in and then mounted the box in the cabinet where the original radio was.
Wired to the original wiring and found out why the OEM sounded so bad... One of the speakers ground wire was a ground for the 12v system... Anyway, ran new ground to the speaker and it sounds pretty good.. Loud enough for a small trailer and not disturb your neighbors in a cramped camp site.
I got the same thing when I went to an RV lot.. The guy came out of the office as I was parking my truck (97 F150 at the time). I knew what I wanted and I knew what weights I wanted to stick with.
I told the guy that and he said, "oh heck, your truck can handle more trailer than that". I say, "well, not really and besides I don't want that big of a trailer anyway". I asked to see trailers with a queen bed, full width bath, no bunks, no slides and no more than #5500 GVWR..
He kept taking me to rigs with everything I didn't want... After the second one he tried to steer me to I went to the side where the weight sticker was and looked at the GVWR and would simply say, it's too heavy..
He tried all the tricks in the book. Like saying, "well your family is going to grow, so you need a trailer that will be able to handle that" and he again said "your truck can handle any of these trailers just fine".. I turned and said, "I don't have a growing family, it's just 2 of us and I can't afford those bigger trailers and I don't want to tow that much with my truck". I asked again if they had any trailers like I originally asked about and he said "no, we don't carry anything like that".. I said, "well, you should have said that when I got out of my truck and not wasted your time or mine" I said "thank you, have a nice day" and left.
Never went back to that dealer again. They went out of business a year or so later... ;)
The place I ended up buying from started out with the same speech and I simply said, I'm not interested in those.. I want to look at those ones over there, which was exactly the trailer I wanted... Still have that same trailer to this day and it's been great!
Good luck in your quest.. The best advice I can give is to just have fun with the salesperson if they get pushy or won't listen to what you want and if it comes down to it, simply walk.. :) There are lots of places to buy an RV from, so take advantage of that..
You could try to exchange it at one of those Amerigas or Blue Rhino places... They don't really 'look' too hard at the one you are turning in. I've never had one check the date on them.. I've turned in all my old tanks this way over the last year now.
Just make sure you check the expire date on the one you are getting... I exchanged my 12 year old tank at a 7-eleven and I had to pick though a couple of them before I found one that had at least a 2013 date on it... The first one he pulled out had a date of 2002! The same age as the one I was exchanging!
So, for $24, I got a 2013 tank with a fair amount of gas in it and got rid of my almost expired tank in the process..
I see new tanks in the stores for $30 and then you have to still fill it!
After an update to my Garmin awhile ago, it added an exclusion for "unpaved roads".. If you didn't check it to "exclude" them, it would take you on unpaved roads! Found this out while towing the trailer. We knew the way to go but the GPS kept telling us to go this other way... Well, got curious and decided to follow it.. It wasn't so bad initially.. Ended up on some wide gravel roads, but it kept telling us to "turn right". Well, "right" was just an open field?? After a couple of times, I noticed that there was a "road" between the fields where it was saying 'turn right', so again.. "what the heck, we've come this far"... :)
Got lucky and it was not too bad of a 'road', except for the 90* turn at one point and a huge rut running through the 'road'..
Finally got to the main hwy and determined that it saved about 5 miles, but going 10 mph through the fields, it cost us more in time...
When we got home, I went through the settings and found the new exclusion setting and also set it to calculate for shorter 'time' and not 'distance' and that way it tends to keep you on the hwy than the back roads...
I like the GPS, but also have paper maps and still watch out for signs and other clues as to the direction I'm going. I also have not been 'curious' about when it says to go a way I know is not exactly right... :)
I don't think the 'lemon law' applies to RV's, but it could be a 'state' thing too??
Also, isn't the definition of 'lemon' where the same repair has been done a number of times and there seems to be no lasting 'fix' for it?
If you are having many different things go wrong and they are repaired, but don't repeat with the same exact repair again, I don't think that's a 'lemon' as such.... Just a poor job of QC or a POS trailer to begin with... ;)
My trailer had some 'minor' things pop up on it, and I took it back to the dealer initially, but got tired of that as they were things I could just fix myself and do a better job of it!!
Now, if an appliance went bad during it's warranty period, I would have brought it in... But, I fixed most of my fit and finish stuff with a screwdriver and some additional screws in most cases...
I know it must suck to have issues with a brand new rig, but sometimes the cure (taking it back to the dealer each time) is worse than the original problem (fixing it with a screw driver).
So did anybody ANSWER the OP's question?
No.. He found the answer himself from another source, but there was one poster that did mention that it could be the computer raising the rpms to match the speed so when it's shifted back into gear, the engine speed would be better matched to the vehicle speed... I've never heard that before, but it got off topic to the whole 'snow' deal pretty early and wilber likes to put it in neutral and others don't... ;) That's the "topic" now... :)
An easy way to check, just to be sure, is to get a volt meter (the kind with the individual probs). Put the black lead in the neutral slot of the plug and the red lead in the hot slot and it should read zero volts. Fire up the generator and check again. It should read around 120v. It really does not matter which slot either lead goes.. If it's reversed, it'll just show -120v. Swap them and it'll show +120v and you'll then know which is which! :)
Plug in the male end and you should now have power to your 120v plugs and appliances in the RV.
I've never seen one wired up in a single box that way, but you can tell there are 2 separate wires going "in" and the single plug going "out".
Have fun finding out about the LP powered appliances next! They are probably pilot light operated and those take some extra, manual steps to lite! ;)
You know what you should do when going downhill when it's icy out??? Drop the trans to a LOWER GEAR and let the engine braking maintain your speed and you don't need to touch the brakes at all. Go figure. ;)
I have no idea how this works with DIESEL engines, since I understand they don't do that without an exhaust brake, but for GAS engines, this is the way I've always done with no ABS at all.
If you have a 4wd vehicle, doing this will allow both axles to aid in the engine braking, so even less chance of skidding.
Of course, if you are going too fast you'll still skid, regardless of what gear your trans is in, but to just say putting it in neutral going downhill in the snow won't lock up your brakes is just nuts IMO...
I know this has nothing to do with the OP original question and he found his answer SOMEWHERE ELSE... :) But, I just couldn't let the snow part go..
Do whatever works for you... I know what works for me and it ain't putting it in neutral going downhill in the freaking SNOW... ;)
My guess is that's where you plug in the short MALE plug so you are now powered by the motorhomes GENERATOR.. Older MH's don't have the transfer switches that the new ones have.. ;)
So, when you need to run off the gen, plug the short male plug into the female box. When you want to run off the camp grounds power, plug the short male into a 30 amp extension with a female on one end and a male on the other..
I think you have it covered.. I'm sure you have a full tool box with all the basic wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers and a roll or two of duct tape??
I like to bring along some extra fuses, hose clamps, fan belt, black electrical tape, etc... ;)
Sounds like a great trip plan and I wish you the best! I hope to do that at some point in my life!