All I think of is those funny commercials where the bank is being robbed and the security guard is there and the customer asks "aren't you going to do anything?" Answer... "I'm only a security monitor"
So, you get a call on your cell phone... You can WATCH all your vid cams showing the bad guys robbing you.... What are you going to do? Sure, call 911 and get the police going, but the deed is done... They will be gone long before the police get there...
I've got security cams around my house, but not connected to the internet.. I've been broke into before.. Before I had the cams.. I've had bad guys come to my door when I was home, but that's the only time the vid cams came in handy.. I saw them, knew they were bad and got them to leave without incident.
I'm armed too, but that has never come into play to date..
Do what you need to do of course.. Just know that you can only do so much, but the bad guys might still get in..
When I bought my truck, it came with 6 month free Sirius... Think I used it for maybe an hour total...
Won't work in the garage.
Go under overpasses and it cuts out.
Plug in my usb ipod with around 1900 of my favorite songs on it and I'm good..
I add to the ipod song list all the time, so it's ever growing.:)
Anyway, I wish the truck had HD radio.. I'd give up the cd player and Sirius button for HD radio in a heartbeat..
Guess that's why I tow a little trailer with my F150.. ;)
Too much emphasis on this whole "tow rating" deal when newb's are looking at TT's and then they go by the "dry weight" of the TT and think it's all good... Well, they might get some 'bad' advice from the sales person.. But, that's another issue..
Anyway, good post OP and hope some newb's can take some real world experience to heart..
Good luck with the new rig!
All I can say is good luck with it... You already have the truck and the trailer, so hitch it up, take it to the scales and find out some real world weights...
I guess if you are only going to go some 27 miles with it, you'll get down the road with it..
Not sure where you got the #11000 tow rating with the 5.0, but it's the 3.5 Ecoboost that has the highest tow ratings, even in 2017.
Again, good luck with it..
buddy, the jacks are to stabilize. You put a little tension on them, but not enough to do all your leveling for you.
Before you unhitch, check the trailers side to side level. If it's within half a bubble, call it good. If more, lay the level blocks of your choice next to the low side tires and then pull forward. Push the blocks behind the tires and back up on them. Check the level again and if it's good, set your wheel chocks and unhitch.
Set your front to back level with the tongue jack. Once level, starting in the back, put down the stabilizer jacks, low side first, then do the fronts.
I only hook up the sewer hose when I'm ready to dump, but that's just me. Most folks hook up from day one. Leave the black tank closed until you want to dump.. There is not enough water to flow it out like at home. I like to leave the grey tank closed to fill up too, but that's optional.
The reason you want to leave the black tank until it's full is it will drain a lot better and get most of the solids out in just the drain. You may still need to fill it with water from a green hose and drain again to make sure you get the solids out. I like to finish up with dumping the grey tank, so it kinda rinses out the hose.. It's still nasty water, but not as nasty as the black tank!
Still lots to learn, but we all figured it out eventually!
gserv.. No one is going to be able to really tell YOU what you can and can't tow... Sure, according to the numbers, you "should" be within your ratings, but you still have not acknowledged the fact that you are aware of the OTHER ratings your truck has...
It's just not about the "tow rating".. The "tow rating" does not specify what kind of trailer you are towing.
A #9000 flat bed trailer with a couple pallets of bricks on it is going to tow and put different weight loads on your truck than a #9000 boat or a #9000 TT..
The TT will put the most weight on your truck and have the most wind resistance you will ever experience compared to towing the flat bed or the boat..
So, it all boils down to what YOU want to do..
Could my truck tow that #9000 GVWR TT?? Sure it could... It'll probably do it all day long, for days at a time..
Question is, do I WANT to do that? For me, no.. I've done that before.. Long before anyone even cared about "tow ratings" and all the other BS that goes on here...
Always found myself backing off the trailer weight or increasing the truck size depending on what I was towing.. Most of this overloaded towing was done back in the mid 80's when I worked for a construction company and hauled utility trailers with 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks from coast to coast, driving by myself..
All sorts of combo trucks and trailers... Found the best combo was when the trailer weighed about the same as the truck, or just a tad less..
Anyway, don't want to preach here.... Get what you want, tow it with what you want and decide from there.. :)
That thing probably has more SQFT than my first apartment when I first got married! :)
Nice rig, but looks to be riding a bit low in the back? Do you have a "level" kit on the front? Might want to consider some bags to at least level it out some??
Otherwise, nice rig... When I was a kid, we had a 1971 F250 reg cab "Custom" with a slide in camper shell (no cap over) and towed a 26' 1976 Taurus "Bunk House" TT and thought that was being spoiled! ha, ha!! My sister and I and the dog rode in the camper shell! It was AWESOME and those times made a lot of good child hood memories for me and my family.. Wouldn't trade that time for anything.
Best of luck to ya and make those memories now, because it's all you have!
Still have our 15 year old POS TT and as long as I keep it maintained and don't let anything go too long before fixing it, it's all good.. ;)
We are only long weekend campers, once a month between May and Sept and we only go to State Parks in WA state and OR..
We make reservations 9 months ahead of time and get the sites we want. In no way am I close to a six figure salary, but I enjoy the time away from my modest home and work. :)
We avoid all holiday weekends, so that helps a lot too... Although, this year, we will be camping the weekend just before the 4th, but are leaving the day before the 4th...
Anyway, I refuse to stay in any "rv resort" for just the reasons you give...
Good luck with it all.. There are other ways to 'camp' with your RV, so just have to find the style that suits you best.
No idea on the electric ones.. But, I have never used anchors for my manual awning. Been to lots of windy places and once the awning starts rattling and you can feel it in the trailer, it's time to put it up..
I have those clamp on 'flapper' things for the arms and I put those on anytime the awning is out (2 sets of them too).. But, once the arms start to rattling, it goes in..
I leave it out when we go away too.. But, I'll usually lower it and keep the main arms connected to the trailer.. I monitor the weather forecast for wind and so far so good..
I've seen awnings that where anchored, but all that happens is the frames stay put, but the fabric just rips away from the trailer anyway. Or the frame just pulls out the bolts attaching it to the trailer..
I can't sleep with my awning rattling the trailer at night, so if there is enough wind to do that, I just bring it in.. Been out in my boxers doing it several times over the years too.. :)
Anyway, good luck and do whatever lets you sleep at night!
Sounds like once you get the rig there, you are going to keep it there, so to initially setup, you'll need the sewer hose, white water hose, pressure regulator, maybe some boards to level with and for your stabilizer jacks. You should just be able to plug in your shore power cord to the pedestal with either your 50 or 30 amp plug no problem..
The rest just depends on how you wish to "camp" and what you wish to carry back and forth..
I've found that having a fully stocked TT with all the kitchen gear and utensils is essential.. Stock it so all you have to bring is food and clothes depending on what you decide to keep in the trailer.
We like to use "real" plates, bowls, glasses and utensils, so the trailer has it's own stock of these things. If you don't like doing dishes, then go for the disposable stuff. No big deal.
Since you own a good size boat, you should already know about the holding tanks.. Well, you comment about the "grey tank" means your boat probably only has a single waste tank, but the grey tank is for sink and shower water. The black tank is just the toilet.
Since you are going to take delivery and go straight to your seasonal site, I'd suggest bringing along whatever you feel you need and go from there...
Take a note pad and jot down the items you need or don't need for your next visit.. Continue this until you are comfortable.. Took us about 5 years to get our trailer fully stocked to where we like it!
Still always tweaking on it too... We've made mods to the trailer, which then adjusts the stocking of it... To this day, we do something new and say, "why didn't we do that earlier?" My one comment I always say as we are leaving, is "well, if we forgot anything, we can always buy it..."
This is our 15th year with our TT..
I wouldn't do it with that truck.. I wouldn't do it with MY truck...
And I've got a "tow rating" of #11,300!
I tow a #5000 GVWR TT with my truck and love it..
I'll go up to around #7500 GVWR TT if I ever get a new one.
I've been towing stuff since I was 16 years old and I'm 53 now.
I've just learned over the years that I don't like to tow at a truck "tow rating".. Sure, you can do it, and nothing wrong with doing it.. I've done it for YEARS in the past..
Just prefer to tow a tad less under now.. But, that's just what works for me now..
I doubt you will be able to stay UNDER any of your other trucks GVW ratings with that size trailer, so you just have to decide what "ratings" you want to go by..
That's the truck GVWR, Axle Ratings, Tire Ratings, Hitch Ratings.. Lot more than that nice "tow rating" you always see out there..
Well, if you are replacing the entire light fixture, you do need to seal it to the side of the trailer, and I have used that "Plas-T-Cote" puddy.. Similar to Plumber Puddy as best I can describe.
It's used for roof vents, but I used it on running lights and rear tail lights when I had to replace the entire thing over the years.. I am still using the same roll I bought 10 years ago.. It's still malleable and seals just fine.
If you are just replacing the lenses, then you don't want to seal that, as mentioned above.
Wa State Parks used to let you cancel with full refund, except for the original "online reservation fee", which is like $7 or something..
But, people started to abuse the system and make reservations TWO WEEKS ahead of time, to get the weekend they wanted. Then they would cancel the prior days after the 9 month time frame for that weekend.
They would get refunded all the fees for the prior days they canceled, yet still be able to keep the the days they really wanted..
Totally UNFAIR and WA State Parks realized that and put policies in that if you cancel your PRIOR dates after such a period of time (within days), you would NOT get your site fees back and have to eat that cost.. You can still cancel your ENTIRE block of days and get a full refund within 7 days of your arrival date.. But, you have to cancel the entire reservation block..
So, you can still do the TWO WEEK thing and then cancel if you want, but it's going to cost you now.
Thank you WA State Parks for doing this! I was getting blocked out of so many sites because of this and now I can get the sites I like in the time frame I want and all is good in the world again!
All I can say is I have a 2003 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 722F and bought it brand new in July of 2002 and still own it to this day and it's been a very good rig for the most part. To date, I have not had an appliance fail on me yet.. Knock on wood!
It did have some initial stuff that got fixed under warranty, but that was just a door fitment thing and a shower drain thing..
Also, some cabinet door fitting things, but I fixed those myself..
Other than that, after the first 2 years of owning it, I ended up fixing all those things AGAIN myself and I haven't had a problem with them since I fixed it myself.. I have also made a lot of "custom" changes to make it fit our camping style over the years as well..
So, how good of a DYI person are you?
Can you handle basic home repairs yourself?
Do you mind yearly maintenance routines or will you hire that kind of stuff out?
I fix a lot of stuff around the house too, but do know when to hire out a project if I can't or don't want to tackle it.. Just ask the wife! ha, ha..
Anyway, just about any "RV" out there that does not cost in the mid 6 figure range is gonna be your most cheaply built unit out there...
Been doing this "RV" thing for some time and they are all basically ****... But, I have had the best times of my life doing it and would not trade a second of any of that maintenance time, or repair time, or paying the invoice time for the time I have spent in my "RV".. :)
We camp in our State Parks during the summer and on weekends, so we have to reserve if we want to camp.. :)
Not everyone camps the same way, so gotta just do what works best for your situation..
Happy Camping everyone!
Never mind... Again... :)
MartinaB , Use YOUR trailer as you wish to use YOUR trailer.. What other's do with THEIR trailer is fine and dandy too. (BTW, I don't poo in mine and I don't fit in the shower, so there you go!)
But, to your question specifically, I dump after every trip. I'll just run the toilet to fill it up before dumping if it's not that full, but I'll still always dump..
I'm just a long weekend camper myself, and about 30 days between trips during the summer, so I use MY facilities as I see fit to suit my needs and use the parks facilities as needed as well..
Works for me.. Do what works for you as all the others and the main thing is to just ENJOY the time you spend in your rig and all will be good.
I am not worried about the money I am more worried about how much ga to put in the tank so it does not run out. Also I thought it would be a good way to make sure I run it once a month like they say you should.
If only 2 hours, just fill it up? Shut it down, fill up again and that's how much your gen uses.
I've run my Honda 3000 hooked to my house thru a gen switch for 18 hours before. Only used about 2.5 gallons.
Who cares what the fuel consumption is?? If you feel you need to run it, then run it... If you care that much how much fuel it consumes, maybe you shouldn't run it??
Nothing wrong with running it while driving. Just if you feel you need to.
Moisture is kinda the same as rust.. Once it starts in deep into the material, it'll keep going.. That's why they call it "cancer" when it gets to that point.
Surface rust or moisture that's just gotten to the surface can be stopped if you catch it in time (same deal with real "cancer" too)
Anyway, it sounds like you are going to have to do some serious surgery and cut out the rotted wood and replace.
That should stop the spread for the most part. It might stop on it's own, but you will still have the soft spots, so might as well fix that up anyway?