Don't care if I'm right or wrong with each particular states gun transporting law.. I rarely leave my state anyway, so I WAS wrong to post my common sense thoughts on the subject... :)
Any further comment from me will only get my post deleted and probably banned from the site, so before this whole thread gets deleted or closed, thanks for letting me know how screwed up we really are.. :)
It is amazing how sensitive this whole gun thing is these days.. I grew up around guns and knew how to respect them from a very young age (5)...
Anyway, it's not that way now, so I do understand that.. :)
It's just ashame how society has changed and common sense has "left the room".. ;)
Mitch--You might---If it in a locked gun box away from the driver's reach--unloaded magazine stored separately--ammunition stored in a separate place from the gun and magazine.
Thanks Tommy. I know my CWP has no meaning in IL, so I would treat the gun accordingly.. It would be in the TT, locked away and unloaded and ammo would not be near it.. :)
In that case, you can't even take a pistol into Canada at all... No matter where it is stored.
That is not true. see the Canadian fire arms centre's web page and read the rules.
Interesting... I thought I heard on the news not too long ago where a guy accidentally got into the wrong lane to the Canada boarder from WA state and just wanted to turn around and had no intention of entering Canada at all, but had a gun and told them about it and got hassled about it and detained and whatever and it was just a PITA for him...
Since I don't really leave the WEST coast and not in the least bit interested in going to Canada with a firearm, I don't really care either way.. :)
So just chalk up that statement as a dumb internet statement and find out the truth for yourself BEFORE you do something stupid.. :)
So, I can't even carry an unloaded firearm in my TT in the state of Illinois??
Guess I won't be going to Illinois.. But, so far I haven't had a need to, so it's really a moot point..:)
Nice flat tire on that tractor! :) When I was a kid, we used our little Kabota tractor (little 3 cylinder diesel) to move around our TT with a fabricated hitch setup on the rear of it.. It worked great.
In WA state, you can't keep a LOADED weapon in a motor vehicle without a CWP..
But, if it's in a TRAVEL TRAILER, I don't know that anyone would ever find out, unless you are crossing a boarder into Canada or Mexico??
In that case, you can't even take a pistol into Canada at all... No matter where it is stored..
I carry my .357 mag pistol LOADED in TT or my truck, but I have a CWP as does my wife... :)
If I wanted to cross the boarder, I can't take it anywhere.
If I want to go to the East Coast, I'd just leave it in the TT and "don't ask, don't tell"... I know there are only a few states that will actually "acknowledge" my CWP in their state, so I'd need to read up on that and unload my pistol while in transit accordingly..
An UNLOADED weapon in any unaccessable part of the vehicle from the driver is usually OKAY, just as long as you can LEGALLY own a firearm..
I remember in high school in the late 70's, we had kids with those rifle gun racks in the back of their pickup trucks with RIFLES in them!! But that was a long time ago in a land far away and you can't do that anymore, anywhere... :)
First off, you can't tow any TT with any Mazda.. ;) (yes, I'm being sarcastic!)
If you are planning on full timing, you are going to need something a bit more than a T@B too...
You say "26 foot" for a TT. Well, I have a 22' total length TT that only weighs #5000, but there is no way I'd "full time" in it..
It's just a long weekend/2 week vacation type of RV, but I guess you could "live" in it if you had too... ;)
My Folks have a #12,000 5th wheel that they could full time in if they had to and tow it with a 3500 Dodge Ram DRW diesel truck. But, they don't full time in it.. Just use it to get away with every now and then..
Since you've never driven a "truck" before, you've got a lot to learn on just how "trucks" drive... It ain't gonna be like that Mazda minivan!
So, that alone is gonna be a factor to consider IMO..
Towing a trailer is gonna make you press the GO PEDAL harder and to the floor at times and the engine is gonna scream at you and show over 3000-5000 rpms on the tach.. (if you get a gas engine)
Can you accept that??
I started driving trucks/tractors/towing stuff at a very young age, so I got schooled very early on in my life and by the time I got my own "stuff", I knew what would work and what wouldn't compared to what I wanted..
To be able to tell you what "truck" and what "trailer" would work for you is essentially impossible because what it all boils down to is what your past experience is and what your current expectations are..
Tow ratings and dry weight trailer weights mean a lot to some and mean nothing to others.. Lots of folks have wasted a lot of $$ learning the difference... ;)
I've known people that I won't even get into a vehicle with and other's that I'll easily fall asleep in the passenger seat with...
What category you fall into?? Dunno, so all I can say is be honest with yourself and know your driving skill and relate that from your Mazda that maybe weighs #4000 to towing a truck/trailer combo that can weigh over #15,000.... ;)
O.K., I bought two of the Dri-Z-Air buckets, and a 60 oz. jug of crystals. I plan to mount them to the wall like a planter, and partly fill the bottom bucket with some sort of absorbent, as well, to eliminate possible spillage when driving. I may buy a hanging DampRid for the closet, as well.
Thanks for all the input!
The liquid that comes from the stuff you put in the top is kinda thick... It's not like water... I don't think putting some "absorbent" is gonna do much...
I only use my Dri-z-Air for when it's being stored.
If you are looking to keep your windows from forming condensation when you are using the rig, you have to either crack the vents/crack open a window or use a full blown dehumidifier.
These things work slow and when there isn't human bodies in the rig producing all kinds of humidity... ;)
You could hang them on the wall if you want, but I wouldn't leave them there while in transit or expect them to eliminate the condensation you get on the windows when you are in the rig..
Even with my vents cracked open and a cold night, my windows will have dripping condensation on them in the morning.. But, that's why they have weep holes on them and if you either wipe them down, or they are able to dry out when it warms up, you don't have too worry too much.
I'm just a 4 day weekend camper, so it's not a big deal. In between trips, I put out my dri-z-air things and it does a good job without any humans in the rig... ;)
Are you willing to remodel in order to accommodate the desk?? I ripped out my bench dinette and this was the space left..
I put the benches end to end to get this because I didn't want the dinette anymore.
But, had I wanted to put a desk in it's place, that would have worked too.. ;)
This is only a 22' total length TT (19' actual camper size) and weighs #5000..
As has been already said.. You need to determine what other features you require for your "camping" experience.. :)
When it rains, I put out the awning and setup the propane fire pit and enjoy... If it's windy and cold and raining... Well, we get in the truck and go explore the local town or civilization.. We don't do much boondocking, so we are usually pretty close to some kind of small town.. :)
Good luck with the search.. As there is no answer WE can give you because we all have different needs and wants too..
Dan, you are asking a lot from a standard tow package F150 where you are giving up #500 of GVWR compared to a Max Tow package...
While you have a #9000 tow rating, that assumes you don't put anything in the truck besides yourself... So, right there, anything else you add to the truck takes away from that "tow rating"..
It's been a very heated discussion over the years on this site if you can run over or under your trucks GVW ratings and payload.... ;)
There are some that think if you go #100 over, you are a danger to your family and every other family out on the road..
There are some that think you can be over, but as long as you aren't over your axle/tire ratings you are fine..
Therein lies the rub to this whole "rving" thing.. ;)
What ratings do you believe?? Well, you just have to believe in what you believe and rely on your own experience and common sense and go from there.. :)
Reading posts from the "interweb" will only confuse you more if you don't have a clue either way, so not much to say there...
IMO, you are taking on a very tall challenge and not giving yourself much wiggle room to be essentially "full timing" for over a year and traveling all over the US, including Alaska!
The bike is going to be your biggest weight penalty. Sure, you can get a Toy Hauler trailer, but those are pretty heavy before you put anything in it, due to it needed to be a much HD setup to handle the "toys"..
With what I've towed and traveled with from coast to coast over the years in my younger days when none of this "weight" stuff came into play at all and all I was doing was moving equipment trailers from site to site using an E250 Van and overloaded trailers and getting paid $15/hour to do it I learned a lot with what you can get away with and what you can't! ;)
I never had an accident or anything, but there was some wild rides for sure!
Anyway, what you have in mind sounds good on paper, but is gonna be hard to make happen in this day and age...
I wish you the best and hope you are able to find a workable solution!
Nice graphic! :)
I've been to sites like that, but not where I couldn't level it.. The tongue was so low, I had to use a single 2x board for the jack. I normally use 2 4x boards stacked on top of each other!
About the only thing you could do is put enough boards under both sets of tires to get the thing up in the air higher so there is more room for the tongue to go lower.. Not very practical I know, but sites that are built to hold an RV "should" be made as level as possible when the pad is laid! ;)
Anyway, good luck next time!
Can you get the 150 with the mirrors that extend or you stuck using strap on. One of the big reason we bought our new to us 2009 F250 it had the power mirrors. Press the button and they extend out 6 inches. I just looked at the Ford website and didn't see them. That was one of the BIG reasons we got the F250. Yep that was a deal breaker to us.
Yes, you can get tow mirrors on an F150 with the MAX TOW package.
Mine are heated and power to move the main mirror, but you have to extend/fold them manually.
On the higher end trim models, you can get the power extend/fold option.
I've not driven a 5.0 or a 14 Eco, so I can't compare at all... But, my 13 Eco with 3.73 gears and taking off hard from the freeway on ramp lights is fun!!
When the light turns green, I'll give it about 3/4 throttle until it just gets rolling. Then mat it... It shifts around the 5000 rpm mark thru 1st, 2nd, 3rd.. By the time you are pulling hard in third, you are over 60 mph and merging with traffic.. :)
Even towing the trailer, on ramp merging is a breeze.. This thing will get up to speed really easy and towing the grades is even more of a blast! It really likes 4th gear and pulling an easy 2700 rpms or so holding a nice and easy 60 mph. If you want to go 65, just press the pedal a bit more. It'll easily do 70 if you just had to.. :)
Coming from an 97 F150 with the 5.4, I can certainly say the 3.5 Eco makes that engine feel like the little 2.0 in my wifes Rav4! :)
No idea on the damage, as that can only be determined with a visual inspection.. But, more than likely, it's going to be mostly the tongue jack that has suffered the most.
But, I'd check to make sure you have the right size ball for the coupler on the trailer. It could be 1-7/8", 2" or 2-5/16". The size ball you need is the size stamped on the trailers coupler.
It could be that it's a 2-5/16" coupler and you have a 2" ball??
Anyway, good luck with it and at least you got the first scratch out of the way..:)
Just curious how does going to a long box add 1000 pds of payload. That makes no sense to me at all. Can you explain that to me.
Because they only give you the HD Payload package with an ext cab/long bed (8'bed) or a crew cab/6.5' bed. You can't get the HD Payload package with a Reg cab/6.5' bed for example...
They also just up the trucks GVWR to #8200 and add more to the axle ratings and you get LT E rated 17" tires.
The package is specific to your cab/bed configuration first off.
MitchF150's stickers indicates passenger tires and 35 psi. How does that work with an HD claim? Certainly that would be an important factor in Ford rating the vehicle's carrying capacity, no? My truck's sticker wants 65 psi up front, 60 rear, for its booties.
Max PSI per the tire is 44 psi. The are also 20" tires, so the sidewalls are a lot shorter than even an 18" tire and really makes a difference IMO.
I wasn't sure how the tires would do because I've always run LT tires too. But after towing with them all summer, I don't see any reason to go to LT 20" tires.. I'm well under load on them and they handled fine.
Not all of us need or want a an HD truck.. Heck, I only tow about 5-6 times a year and even if it was a larger, heavier trailer, I'd still only want my F150..
Now, if I had to have a #9000+ GVWR travel trailer.. Sure, I'd have to reconsider my choice of truck.. Even thou my particular F150 has a stupid "tow rating" of over #11,000!!
I'd run out of payload, GVWR and rear axle weight long before I'd come close to that "tow rating".
I'd feel comfortable going up to a #7000 TT without blinking an eye with my F150..
Margaret, don't try to shop by what the web page ratings say.. Those are "at best" and "properly equipped" and NOT what you are going to necessarily find on a dealers lot, especially if looking for used.
Keep looking and that "gem" will find your way.. Until then, enjoy the ride you have and don't stress it! :) I know, easier said than done, but still.. ;)