You've certainly got all your figures mapped out and at least you are aware of them, so that's already miles ahead of most..
But, it never fails, no matter how much you try to compute these figures out, if you are figuring them out to the MAX ratings of the tow vehicle to the DRY weights of the trailer, the TV usually comes up short...
Go get just your Tahoe weighed and see how much of that yellow sticker "payload" is really left..
Still a lot more "ratings" to your truck than just the payload and tow rating...
Things like axle ratings usually get ignored and the "P" rated tires and the fact that it's still a relatively short wheel base vehicle..
Not saying you can't tow the trailer you quote.. Just saying, just going with published numbers, you can make just about anything work if you want it to..
Towing is more than just the weights.. Gotta be able to handle it too..
I only cover it for it's Winter storage. So, I'll cover around Oct and it stays on until May. In between time, I don't cover.
The cover in my pic on the previous page, at that time, was around 10 years old. I retired it this year (2 years later) and have a brand new ADCO AquaShed Designer Series cover waiting to go on come Oct.. Cost me $175 for the 20' size.. I don't have that big of a trailer.. :)
If it was physically possible to have a covered car port for mine, I'd have it.. But, the logistics of how I have to park it won't work, so this is my best solution.
"At least we don't have to pay yearly registration fees based on the vehicles "value" anymore. RV's would cost a grand or more to register and cars would be in the several hundred dollar range back then.."
Give the legislature time . . . . . They will figure out a way to increase it again! Remember the $30 tabs Tim Eyman's initiative was supposed to bring? The legislature has increased that more than double!!!
Actually, I think the $30 tab is still there... They just add a ton of other "fees" to it that brings the total bill up a bunch..
Here is my break down of the fees I paid for my 13 F150.
Service Fee: $5.00
GWT/Veh WT: $58.00
I'm actually registered with a #8000 GVW because I have a #7700 GVWR truck.. I also have Custom plates, so that adds $30.00 in there someplace..
My wifes Rav4 had this.
Service Fee: $5.00
GWT/Veh WT: $10.00
My TT and my little 8' utility trailer are about the same as the Rav4..
They'll add more "fees" along the way, for sure!
If your "sway bars" are like this, then go ahead and set them up for the new truck.. This is a "Weight Distribution" setup which puts weight back on the front axle and makes the whole rig tow much better..
If your "sway bar" is a thing that you attach to the little ball on the hitch and to the trailer and then crank down on the handle, you probably don't need it, but it won't hurt anything either..
Both systems help with towing, but once a trailer starts to really "sway", that's when the new F150's "sway control" will kick in and try to stop it. It does not prevent it.. That's what the bolt on and WD setups try to do.
My TT is #5000 soaking wet, but I use the WD setup in the pic because I have over #650 tongue weight and that does sag the rear end a tad.. Put the bars on and it's back to normal height and weight is put back to the front, so it tows just fine.
Well, there you go... I don't recall having to pay all that when I bought my RV in WA state. Except paying the sales tax on it.. But, you can at least claim that sales tax on your Fed Income Taxes!
At least we don't have to pay yearly registration fees based on the vehicles "value" anymore. RV's would cost a grand or more to register and cars would be in the several hundred dollar range back then..
My 14 year old trailer has none of those issues... :)
I've done some mods to it that might not help it's resale, but I don't plan on selling it anytime soon anyway, so no big deal..
Anyway, I started looking at used trailers back in 2002 and each and every one was a POS... Dug a little deeper into the budget and just bought new and never regretted it.
There are plenty of good used RV's out there, for sure.. But, they usually command a higher price too..
Lots of variables.. Have you checked out the WA DOL web page yet?
It might be able to answer your questions... Or cause more!
Good luck! It does seem they do things a bit different with RV's..
Friends don't let friends drive drunk.... Friends should not let friends buy POS diesel trucks... ha, ha!
As was said, there is a reason those trucks are priced the way they are...
I'm a Ford guy all the way, but you couldn't give me one of those trucks with those diesel engines in them..
Yeah, I'm only driving an F150... With a controversial EcoBoost in it.. So, there you go... :) I really don't know anything!
Humm.. the one I saw them test on that Fast Lane Truck youtube channel had a MSRP of around $80k... Sure, it was a Platinum.. I don't need or want a truck that big or fancy.. I'll never get a trailer that requires that kind of rig, nor want one.. I'm just a long weekend camper, so to me, what I have now is more than enough.. Each to their own of course. Everyone "camps" to their own tune..
Called "Feathering". Since your lugs are spread out more, it's more pronounced. Cause can be different things.. Worn shocks, worn ball joints, alignment..
Rotate them as soon as you can and check out the other things to at least eliminate them as the cause.
Sometimes it's just the nature of the beast when towing and driving a lot.
Only towing a #5000 TT with my 13 Eco and love it.. Not even close to it's limits and that's what makes it such a nice tow.
Max out any size rig, and it's gonna be a tougher tow than not maxing it out.. ;)
Sounds like you don't care for the new F150's and that's fine. I've not driven the new ones so no idea what the lighter weight feels like, but since they also lowered all the GVWR's on the 15+ trucks, It's all the same anyway, right?
My 13 has a #7700 GVWR and #1920 payload per the sticker. #4050 rear axle rating, etc... It's a Max Tow, but I think the 15+ Max Tows are lower weights than this, but they weigh less too, but is that a good thing in the end?
Dunno, because I've not driven one, much less towed with one.
Anyway, tow what you want with what you want and if it's good, it's good for you..
There is no standard list of things, other than the stuff needed to setup your trailer, which you mentioned a few already..
I take way more stuff than I ever need or use, but feel better having it than not..
I did the driveway thing to figure out what I needed inside the trailer and what I took out of the house to use, I set out to get the same things that just stay in the trailer.
That's the real trick.. Outfit the trailer so all the stuff in it just stays in it and you don't have to worry about it anymore.
Basically, the only thing that goes in/out of the trailer is food. It even has it's own set of clothes for both of us, so really the only thing we need to load in it for any long weekend trip is food.
I toss in my tools and other stuff into the bed of the truck and that's about it..
I do have a check list and my wife has her own check list that we go thru and check off to make sure we have everything and that's worked out pretty well.
Most of the stuff on it is personal stuff just to make sure it gets in the truck/trailer and that things are done to the house to secure it for our absence.
So, the real answer is, you just gotta figure it our for yourself! :)
You'd still put down your stabilizers, so that would/should take care of the boing, boing, boing deal right??
You'd also have to be able to adjust the bags/shocks independently from side to side to get any kind of lift to level it out from side to side.
Still doable, but not sure just sticking a 2x6 board under the low side doesn't do the same thing.. ;)
Grew up in TC as a kid in the early 70's.. Dad had a 1971 F250 Camper Special and we rented 8' cab over campers many times. They had an ice box fridge, hand pump sink, no bath, no hot water. I was stuck in the bunk above the dinette. My sister got the dinette. Mom and Dad in the cab over of course.
It was a "suite" compared to the tents we were used to in the past, so it was all a good experience and cherish the memories of it.
For me and my wife, our little 22' TT is just a much better fit and cost a lot less than the TC's I've looked at..
Besides, I never liked having to climb up a flight of stairs to get in the thing.. They are very top heavy on mountain roads compared to towing a TT, even with a 1/2 ton truck. Gas stations are never an issue.
We don't boondock enough to even come close to taking any advantage of a TC over a TT so again, it's just personal preference and to each their own.
We spend very little time inside our TT as well, so that's why our little 22' works fine.. I would not want a 30'+ TT at all.. But, that's a whole different conversation.. :)
Well, the skid bars are kinda like the old 'curb feelers' from the old days...
They are meant to WARN you that you are hitting something... They are not meant to support the whole rig once you hit them...
It won't do any good to strap on some rollers on those things, because they will only reduce your clearance even more, and they are still just 'curb feelers' anyway..
Now, if you want to remove the skid bars and put the wheels in their place, than you might okay, but now you are asking the trailers frame to support your rig on an angle with weight on it that it was never designed to handle..
Taking the driveway at more of an angle might help, but if the angle is just too much, it's just too much for your rig and I'd either try for another place, or try a different angle.
Tell my why the seller has to pay for the inspection?
If you want an inspection, the buyer pays for that as far as I know.. You pay for a home inspection.. Not the seller... You pay to have a mechanic look over a used car, not the seller..
If I was the seller, I'd tell you that it's fine if you want an inspection, but I'm not paying for it...
Once the inspection is done and there are issues, then it's up to the seller to either fix those or adjust the price or ??
I just pour some pink AF in the bowl. Not much at all. I've never found that it 'evaporates'. I check it about every other weekend during the winter. Always has the same amount in it.
During the summer, when I'm using it, I always make sure it has water in it. Always holds the water between trips.
It's the same seal from 2002 when I bought the rig brand new. I've never put anything on it other than the AF and water.