Mine does something similar when it's cold outside and the fridge cycles off/on while on propane.
I think it's the metal flue/tubes expanding after the burner turns on after it's been off for a little while.
My fridge will maintain a set temp by cycling the flame off/on. This is really only noticeable in the middle of the night when there are no other sounds. I can even hear the igniter turn on and about 10 seconds later, the little popping sounds for about a minute or so.
That "tow rating" does not necessarily mean a tongue heavy toy hauling travel trailer.. ;)
Look at the sticker on the trucks hitch and see what it says it's max load is... Probably will come in at around #1150 if that's what your actual "tow rating" is. I guess they upped the "properly equipped" 2015 F150 to be over #12,000 now??
Anyway, you'll have plenty of power. Where you'll loose out is with the other weight limits on the truck, like the hitch, axles and payload.
I only tow a #5000 TT and I'm within #400 of the rear axle rating and #600 of the trucks GVWR. Which, in my case is #7700, but you have a 2015 that is made out of beer can material, so it's a lot lighter to begin with.. ;)
Depends on how much the camper weighs and how much payload your truck has..
What's the little sticker on your drivers side door jamb say how much you load in your truck? It'll look like this, but have a number on it for your specific truck.
"tow rating" means nothing when you are hauling something in the bed of the truck.. ;)
Remember the old Buick V6 Turbo Regal/Grand National from the mid 80's... That thing stomped all over any N/A V8 of the day... They command a pretty good price from the the more popular auctions today too.. ;)
I had my share of V8 powered vehicles and I can only say my current 2013 3.5L Ecoboost F150 would walk all over any of them... :)
I have to admit, that I would not get the 2.7l if the 3.5l is still available, but that was impressive... But, it was only towing a #7200 flat bed car hauler... ;)
But, he still had to hold back to keep at the speed limit, since that's what they were trying to control in all of their tow tests...
Anyway, it all boils down to if you want a V8 or a not... For me, I was a V8 guy all the way... But, this little 3.5 Eco really puts a smile on my face every time I drive it.. :) :)
Tow mirrors are here, just need to be put on
Ford wanted $650 for the factory ones, so got some off ebay.
My Max Tow option only cost $335 extra.. That gives me #7700 GVWR and the tow mirrors.. :)
Plus the 302A trim package gets the extra stuff with the XLT. I've seen other XLT's that don't have that package and it's just a step above an Xl..
But, glad you got your truck OP.. Been reading your "blog" of your search and it's been very entertaining and I think you'll be more than happy with your choice!
Does it really matter at this point? ;)
You got the truck, you got the #15k 5th wheel... Hook it up and tow it a couple hundred miles and calculate the mpg's... :)
When you get to your destination, ENJOY!
That's all I do when I'm getting 10 mpg towing a little #5000 TT with an F150..
Bought my 2003 Prowler in July of 2002 and it came with a factory 2 year warranty and I didn't buy any extended anything... ;)
Still own the same trailer today and I did take it in for a plumbing issue within months of owning it, but that fix failed too, so I ended up fixing it, and it's been fine since! :)
Since I have not owned a different RV since then, I can't say what they are like now, but I do the regular maintenance and inspection of the roof every year and haven't had any issues with it at all.. :)
If any appliance goes out on it now that it's over 13 years old, I'll simply replace the failed appliance.. No big deal since it's been paid for since around 2006 and I don't want to buy a new RV.. :)
When I first got the Honda 3000i, I used to take it with me when going to sites that I knew I had electric at. Pretty much all state parks.
After never needing it for the year I did that, and not taking it since and that's been about 8 years now and never losing power while I was camping, I'm glad to not haul that thing in and out out of the truck!
But, I will always fill the fresh water tank (only 30 gallons) when I know I've got water at a camp site.. Then I just use my tank water and don't even bother hooking up the hose.. I like my water much better than the water the parks provide anyway, so no big deal.
Anyway, if it's only a #54 2000w gen, take it along... My 3000 is over #150, so it stays in the garage, unless I know I won't have electric at the site I'm going to.
Just what works for me.. :)
Haven't been there since the late 90's, but been to the SP across the road about 2-3 times since then and never went back to the KOA... ;)
The SP has full hookup sites and is closer to the beach! But, probably harder to get into because of the limited number of sites and being able to make reservations 9 months ahead of time.
Good luck and it'll be fun no matter where you are staying!
I'm within #600 of my trucks GVWR and #400 of the rear axle rating towing a #5000 fully loaded TT. (actual weights, not on paper)
My sig gives the specs of my truck. My guess is that you'll be over some of those ratings a bit with your truck and that trailer.
My dad did that conversion on his 5th wheel years ago. He also did that air suspension kit. It still has the leaf springs, there is just an air bag in place of the center pivot bracket.
He says it works really well and glad he did it. He also got some load range "G" tires for it (110 max psi) and hasn't had a flat since.
He takes it off road at least once a year to get to a boondock place in Idaho to go fly fishing and he said those mods really helped the towing on the gravel roads and really smooth on the hwy.
My 2003 Prowler 722F has a big sticker on the inside of the lower cabinet door under the sink with all the "weight" info..
There should be a sticker on the drivers side of the trailer, up front, with the trailers GVWR and axle ratings.
My Prowler is #5000 GVWR and the sticker says #3500 UVW.. But, it weighs it's full #5000 GVWR and a few extra pounds now .. ;)
Grandpa had Fords for as long as I can remember. Mostly Galaxies from the early 60's thru the early 80's. He only kept them for about 5 years before getting the next new model. I ended up with his 71 LTD when I was 16 years old! :)
Other Grandpa was a Chevy guy. He owned a nursery in So Cal back in the day, so had Chevy/GMC trucks for as long as I can remember.. Wish I could have gotten his 57 Bel-Air.. He traded it for a 65 Impala and then got a 73 Caprice.
Dad had a lot of Fords too. 60 Falcon, 66 Fairlane, 71 F250, 89 Bronco, 09 F150, 09 Explorer, 14 Escape. He's had Chevy, Oldsmobile, Dodge, Jeep vehicles too.. He still has the 71 F250, but his main tow rig is the 05 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually.
I've had more Fords than any other make myself... :)
Brand loyalty is a very serious thing, so don't mess with it! :)
The dry TW exceeds your receiver limit and will likely increase from there. I recommend an upgraded truck, 3/4+ ton.
That right there is enough to void the whole thing, so worrying about payload and tires is moot... ;) Your receiver is rated at #1150 TW using a WD hitch setup, so if the dry TW is already #1180, you are pretty much done right there..
I guess you could load #2000 of toys in the back of the TH, but then that would likely make the tongue too lite and it won't tow very well..
I really don't think a full tank of gas or not is gonna make a difference if the OP is going to be overweight with a #8000 DRY weight TT.
I don't know, or care, if the payload sticker on my truck includes a full tank of fuel or not, or if I weigh #150 or not.. ;)
The end result is what the rig actually weighs when it's all hitched up and whether or not you choose to have a full tank of gas or not...
I like to leave on a destination with a full tank of gas, so that's what the rig is gonna weigh, so as long as it's within a couple hundred pounds either way, I'm good with it. But, that's just me.
I'd change the belt and the upper/lower rad hoses because they are pretty easy to do and why risk it when it's so easy to do?
Now, when I look at my 13 F150 Ecoboost... That's not so much the case! It ain't gonna be as easy to do as it was on my 97 F150, but I'll probably think about it after it's 5th birthday.. :)
If you have over #500 of tongue weight, you will want a WD hitch setup at the least.
From there, it's just up to how well it's adjusted and how far back the trailer axles are from the hitch. The farther back, the better the tow, but heavier the tongue weight.
I only have a basic WD hitch setup with my 22' trailer, but the trailer axles are 2/3's of the way back, so it tows very well with just a basic WD hitch setup.
The closer the trailer axles are to the tow vehicle, the less TW it's going to have and the more need for additional sway control IMO.
1191 Max passengers and load
I'd bet you'd be over GVWR/payload with my #5000 TT.. ;)
I know, because I was with my old 97 F150 by a good amount towing that same #5000 TT... :)
I wouldn't even tow that trailer with my 13 F150 MaxTow equipped rig.. Doubt I'd even do it with an HD payload version either..
Of course, that's just my opinion, and I towed with that 97 F150 and #5000 TT for over 12 years and had no problems...
But, that's just way too much trailer for any year F150 IMO..
I've never driven an Eco with the 3.55's. I've got 3.73's in a Max Tow and they pull my #5000 TT very well.
My old 97 F150 had 3.55's and the 5.4 and it towed the same trailer fine too. At least I thought so before towing with the Eco! :)
Handling is pretty much the same. Power wise, the Eco walks all over the 5.4 and the 6 speed trans is so much better than that E4OD.
Whatever you do, make sure you get the integrated brake controller and the select shift trans. They both work great!
Good luck in the search.