If I had the budget for it, I'd definitely consider a toad, just because driving around in a small car is a lot better in the MPG department than using the mother ship. A used Jeep Wrangler is always a tempting choice.
If possible, I prefer electric brakes and a towing brake controller.
Another advantage is that you have two vehicles, and can hold down a site with something a lot more substantial than a sign when out for groceries. A sign can "blow away in the wind". Someone moves a toad... there are felony charges that will have to be answered.
Here is what I use:
This plus a 10,000 milliamp/hour (why they don't just use 20Ah, is beyond me) USB battery pack.
It will easily run the bulb for 8-12 hours, and the light is remarkably bright -- bright enough that I throw it into the back of an overhead compartment so it works as indirect lighting.
Bluecoat was in it's prime in 2012 or so. Today, forget it. Not current so leaves you with iffy filtering, etc. As for Open DNS... aok.
I've found that AdBlock Plus/AdBlock Edge, running the browser in a sandbox and/or VM, enabling "click to play", and when actually downloading an executable, running it past VirusTotal provides enough protection.
The only two AV utilities I've found worth the time of day is Malwarebytes, and the reason I mention that, is that it blocks by IP. The other utility is SpywareBlaster, and the nice thing about this utility is that it only runs to update blacklists, like Windows killbits, sites blocked from setting cookies, restricted sites in Internet Explorer, etc.
I like keeping things simple. By isolating the web browser in a sandbox of VM, if it gets infected, the damage is quite well contained. To prevent the browser from getting nailed in the first place, the bad sites get blocked.
As for security, NIST has some good guides and checklists for securing an OS. They are likely way past what a home user needs, but can be useful as a starting point.
I had that problem myself. I ended up deleting the .MSF files, which worked, and TB rebuilt these (MSF means message summary files, or indexes/caches.) This cured my issues. There is a utility called ThunderFix that does the same thing.
Another alternative is a utility called SeaMonkey, which is an all-in-one E-mail program, NNTP reader, HTML editor, and Web browser. It isn't as full featured as TB, but it is an alternative.
Finally, there is always Outlook.
I am with you -- I far prefer a local E-mail client over Web stuff because I don't have to flip between all my E-mail providers and deal with their web pages.
Personally, I use Thunderbird as my "read-'em-all" client that hits all my E-mail accounts via IMAP. However, for my formal home/business address, I also have Outlook, so I can send out proper S/MIME signed messages and have better Exchange integration.
Plus, Thunderbird stores E-mail in a fairly sane format that is readable by almost any mail agent, which is great for long term storage.
The Rev is like the Winnebago Trend/Itasca Viva.
Here in the US, the ProMaster chassis has the smallest weight capacity of the newer van chassis, and only offered in front wheel drive. However, the chassis is the cheapest of the new Euro-van offerings, so it tends to get picked for that reason. So, things wind up being skimped or left out.
Windows for one. There are not many windows on these ProMaster class "C"s, so if you want to see a sunset, you will need to face the vehicle to find a way to see it.
Slide-outs are another feature. You will not see a US maker offering those, although they are common in other rigs. Instead, the use of drop-down beds is more common for a denser sleeping arrangement.
At first, I liked the idea of the Euro-Van on the PM/Ducato platform... but it doesn't translate well to the US. People either pay for the tried and true (although relatively low MPG) of a Ford E-350/E-450 chassis, or pay the price premium for the Sprinter chassis. The PM chassis is wedged in that no-man's land between the two, with the fact that it has a weak payload rating compared to the competition.
Things will improve, but as of now, the PM based "C"s are sort of odd birds right now. Once FCA starts getting better payload ratings and rigs like the Trend start getting slide-outs, those will be a mainstream choice, but right now, they really only have the Euro-styling as their main sale point.
At least it is fixed. The $550 may seem like a lot, but assuming the other coils and spark plugs are OK, it is worth the peace of mind, especially if one isn't good at replacing coils, or has two part spark plugs and isn't well versed in using the Lisle tools.
It may sound like paranoia, but all European RVs have locking water inlet caps.
I think it is a good idea to have that protected, even if it is just behind a cheap plastic door like the outside shower. Keeps a drunk from deciding to use that as a urinal at the minimum.
The Coachmen Prism and the Solera are two I'm looking at as well. If the price difference on a Prism is good enough that it makes up for the TPO roof, I may spring for that and just have the rig seal tested every 3-6 months to ensure I don't have any surprises.
The one with the two twins isn't a bad idea. That was what I was going to wind up with on a "B" van. However, the reason I like the model with the side and rear bed slide is that it gives 26-27 feet of space in a 24 foot package. The corner queen is a standard floorplan and decent as well, although making that bed up is going to be interesting (although it might just be addressed by a Travasack.)
This is good news. I'm looking at most short B+ rigs, be it a Coachmen Prism, a Navion, a FR Solera, or similar. The FR and Coachmen may take some work for the rough edges, while the Winnebago is definitely a step ahead in build quality as well as documentation. What I want to find is a model with the Onan diesel genset as oppose to the LP gas ones. The reason for this is that I live in Texas, and the diesel would provide a lot more run time. I'm also hoping for a model with the 3.0 V6 since it has more oomph, especially if I hit hilly terrain.
I don't know how agile it is, but I plan to run toadless and deal with it. If I really have to, I'll rent a car in the destination town. For some festivals, I will be towing a cargo trailer meant for solar power and additional storage.
As for service, I live fairly near a very good M-B place in Georgetown, and a good Freightliner Sprinter place.
Towing, most rigs can do 5000 pounds, or more accurately 500 pounds on the hitch. Not awesome, but good enough.
One technique that helps is to use a dedicated E-mail program rather than a Web browser for fetching E-mail. A dedicated program like Thunderbird or Outlook is a lot harder to hack than a browser where anything goes. Plus, you can have all your mail in one place, rather than separate web browser table for each site.
There is also the security aspect. This is a moving target, so Windows 8.1 and machines certified for it are incrementally more secure than Windows 7. One item is the TPM chip and trusted UEFI... technical mumbo-jumbo... but it ensures that someone can't modify the hard disk to hack Windows without the user knowing.
One of my E-mail addresses used to get 20,000 to 100,000 spams a day, but it was around for a long time (since the 1990s.) I still have the domain, but since there is no way to deal with such a deluge, the domain is all but shut down due to that.
The latest generation of spammers are using links to websites which will infect/compromise a computer the second they visit the site, usually through older Flash, Java, Acrobat, or other add-on exploits. Some sites even will try to attack Android devices (by trying to get you to download a bogus "securityupdate.apk" file.) If the first round of exploits doesn't work, there is always phishing or asking someone to download a "PDF" which is actually a "pdf...exe" file, and is a Trojan horse.
The newest attacks are pretty nasty. Ransomware is quite profitable these days, as well as attacks that fry actual computer hardware.
As usual, my solution is to have the web browser in a sandbox, VM, or both. I have had malware try to get out of a sandbox by creating billions of small files and directories (which does a number on the filesystem), so I like using both solutions. This way, something that completely freezes the sandbox can be just rolled back to a safe snapshot.
As for the fence post... what keeps the fence post door latched on the highway? I can tell when camping season begins here in Texas when I see people's poop tubes tumble tumble out of bumpers and other receptacles.
I just leave my hose in a plastic tub inside a storage compartment, so barring a hatch flying open, I don't really worry about a slinky escaping to play in traffic.
One trick that I've seen done is to use a sound deadening material like Dynamat, Hushmat, or Fatmat used between the floor and the vinyl. This not just provides acoustic dampening, but also good insulation.
To the OP: I also live in Austin and go that route all the time. I'd place the blame on the driver ahead which forced the OP to take evasive action, and there isn't that much time to think when someone else fails to heed conditions.
Right now, Austin has the makings of Silent Hill going on, fog-wise, so I am sure this is going to repeat itself fairly often.
I would do 50. This effectively gives you two legs, each 50 amps, so really, 100 amps, or 12 kilowatts, while 30 amps only gives you 3.6 kw.
As for power inlets, I am wondering if going with Marinco cords and receptacles might be an idea. The reason for this is that their products have a secondary twist lock and an outer ring that helps further keep water and the elements out of the outlet. If this is a tiny house that may stay in a location for a time, might as well do the job right.
Oh, don't forget SWD rated breakers. Since you should be flipping power off at the breaker when connecting and disconnecting power, it is a must to have a switch rated circuit breaker.
After doing a lot of research for a Transit class "B", a relative who will come with me quite often on trips appears to find "B"s in general stifling. Since I don't want her to have claustrophobia and an unpleasant experience, I'm have to change gears, and look for a small "C". So far, in my area, there are some decent deals to be found on the Winnebago View/Navion, so I'm looking at going with one of those (namely the 24G floorplan, and if that isn't findable, anything but the 24M layout due to wanting permanent beds.)
I'm wondering if anyone has anything good/bad/ugly to say about this model.
From what I know, if the Marine Corps tells someone in training not to do something, there is good reason for that, and I'm not going to argue.
I take reasonable precautions. Rubber gloves and gel alcohol for cleanup.
As for this thread, it needs more pictures to explain these concepts...
On my "to do" sheet for a property I'm looking at is exactly this -- a carport that is not just rated for 100 year winds and snow, but the roof is designed (and rated for the extra physical weight) to point south so I can load it with PV panels. A decently sized carport will get me a good chunk of electricity... good enough to keep the RV's batteries topped off and provide a low-wattage circuit for computer stuff.
I'm guessing the OP means that there is twice as much wear per mile as expected.
However, if the vehicle is built to the vehicle maker's body standards, isn't over the weight limits... then I don't see that the vehicle will wear out any faster than a U-Haul truck or other item.