I also run Mobil 1 synth oil and premium, non-ethanol SeaFoam treated gas in my EU2000i and it starts first pull, every time. :B However, there is a trick I read on the forums some time ago by robert_at_honda ...
1) Open the full cap to verify the gas level
2) Close the gas cap and turn the vent lever to the closed position
3) Turn the choke on full, turn the main switch to ON, then let it sit like this for at least a minute
4) After an minute or so, open the fuel cap vent and start the engine
My understanding is this process allows fuel pressure to build so when you do start the engine it will start right away ... mine does. :B
Sounds like the same process we used to start old cars with carbs. Tap the gas a few times... wait... tap a few times... wait... then start.
Because it is "analog", where the wave comes from the crankshaft spinning at 3600 RPM (1800 RPM for older, four pole models), it is a pure analog sine wave in that sense.
Now, how clean it is, especially under load, is a different story. There have been youtube videos testing this, so I'd probably go look there, but Onans are decent, and produce clean power for pretty much anything.
Other than needing to use a DC-DC converter for the 12 volt system, what problems would there be in going with a 24 volt battery bank for a custom rig?
The reason for this is that Magnum Energy has a PSW hybrid inverter which can run up to 4000 watts, as well as take two 120VAC power sources at the same time (genset and shore power.) However, for this functionality, it requires 24 volts in the battery system.
From what I've read, the only thing that makes noise on the 59K is the chain on the rear doors, which is solved by putting a piece of flexible hose/tubing on it (in a pinch, hit Wally World, buy an el cheap bike chain lock, toss the chain, use the tubing around the rear door chain, problem solved.)
My approach to sizing is simple -- go with as many batteries and panels you can reasonably fit on the rig. Combine that with a MPPT charge controller (or controllers), and using proper gauge cable (take what the maker says, up it by one AWG), and that's the solar charging system in place.
My "heated tanks" on my TT consist of a duct that blasts warm air on them, and nothing else.
My next rig is going to at least have the tanks have heating pads, as well as some form of insulation, even if it is just a layer of Reflectix. This is definitely not -20 below weather... but it will keep the tanks operable if at a CG and the weather is in the 20s (as cold spells do get in Texas.)
I read the RV reviews. Especially for RV parks on I-10 near El Paso. If they say that you need to keep a .45 by your bed, pass the park by. If they say that you need an AR-15 with a 100 round double-drum magazine by your bed... definitely don't patronize that place.
Usually the fact that an area is in a bad neighborhood pops up on the reviews, and unless there is an absolute reason to go to the area, it is wise to steer clear.
To borrow a few graphics:
I would probably go ask a Ford mechanic who is familiar with this decades's transmissions and get an authorative answer. Heat kills transmissions quickly, and even with materials design, ATF is still ATF, and will cook/coke at high temperatures.
If you are continually seeing those temps, I wonder if a transmission cooler upgrade is in order. It might be wise to see about replacing it, if the factory cooler is the same tiny size as pictured on this link:
(Bottom cooler is for the trucks, top for Econoline models.)
The Onan in the "C" is not like a Yamaha or Honda... it will need to have a battery, fuel lines, and power lugs. You could do this, but dropping the genset, hooking it up to a gasoline tank, wiring it up, then undoing all that and sticking it back under the "C" is a lot of work.
I would consider a 3100 watt Champion inverter generator as another idea.
I wish VW would bring the Crafter to our shores. It is a Sprinter, so maybe they can offer a lower price than MB/FL. Software aside, here in Texas, unless someone is obviously rolling coal when the OBD II says the exhaust is clean (which means a custom tune), they are not going to do air quality tests on a vehicle.
As for the knock to rep, I don't see this affecting sales. I know in Austin, VWs are either the #1 seller or #2 behind the little Mazdas, and I doubt this is going to change anytime soon, just because of the trend to not buy US for style reasons (and then wonder where one's job went.)
Thanks for the info. I couldn't find any info on this (the Earthquake model is discontinued), that had actual people's use opinions (not just starting up, plugging in a light and saying it is OK, but actual use on the road.)
It is definitely better than the rattletrap $100 two stroke ET-800 clone, but if 35-55 amps from a converter is this close to having the genset at capacity, then this definitely isn't worth getting for something used constantly.
Link here and more details here.
This is definitely not a Honda eu2000i, but it is of a relatively small size, so it appears useful for two roles:
1: A relatively cheap emergency generator/charger if the starting battery and/or the chassis batteries wind up too low to start the generator or engine.
2: A relatively small generator to have for charging batteries. With a coach that has a 2800 watt Onan or a 4000 watt genset, having something that can run for 14 hours on a gallon of gasoline is more efficient for small loads like charging up the coach batteries.
Again, this isn't a Honda, but it is an inexpensive generator that puts out relatively clean power that is good enough for charging batteries or light electrical tasks, and at 0.07 gallons an hour, it is pretty thrifty on fuel. Sure beats those $100 Harbor Freight two stroke models.
As for the OP, I'd buy the eu2000.
However, I would highly recommend going with two batteries, just because few places allow 24/7 generator running. Just one battery will get damaged if drawn over 50%, and even with a smaller vehicle, you are near that 50% SoC barrier.
A while back, I was told by a dealer they viewed any rigs with Eternabond very negatively as customers see it and think there is water damage underneath, similar to if a section has a large blob of caulk covering it.
I personally think EB is one of the best products out there. Assuming proper prep, and proper application (as in extreme pressure with a metal roller), coupled with EternaCaulk, the only thing that even comes close is an epoxy elastomer spray like rvroof's product.
Agreed. The Dark Sky app has been a great help for me as well.
As for Apple lightning charging cables, I've encountered some badly made cheapies. One started constantly sparking, another shorted out and fried a USB port on my old desktop when I laid it down on a desk, and it happened to contact a metal surface. I stick to the ones certified by Apple not because I have Apple stock (I don't), but because it will work without sparking or shorting out.
They are not too expensive either. Amazon has various brands that are certified for $5-$10.
As for wall chargers, there was a study done, and Apple's was the best for providing consistent five volt power. However, I have been happy with Anker chargers which give at least 4+ USB ports per 120 VAC plug used.
I have a love/hate relationship with Apple. I can't stand the fact that RAM/HDD/etc. are not upgradable. However, I have fewer operation headaches with Apple products as a general rule.