The second quietest non inverter generator I've encountered was some construction equipment. It was a 7000 watt Onan mounted on top the chassis. Was quieter than my 3000 watt Yamaha, and it wasn't covered by anything... just well shock mounted.
The absolute quietest I've encountered was a generator built into a local news channel's van. I had to almost put my ear against the coach to hear that thing purr.
One RV builder, Nexus RV, has the option for both a 5500 watt Onan, a 50 amp circuit, and two A/C units. If I went with them, I'd almost certainly go that route, and hopefully the A/C units are ducted in a way that either or both units can push air from all the ducts, so on a cooler day, just one would ne needed.
Congrats. There are two nice things about a class "C" over a TT. The first is the ability to just stop, walk back, use the bathroom, or just take a nap. The other is that it can sit in the driveway and be ready to go at a moment's notice.
One option might, if there is space, a portable A/C venting out a window. This won't happen on a 30A circuit... but with some rigs, you might be able to snake a high amperage 20A cord out to plug into the pedestal to keep the secondary A/C going.
Onan has a generator controller similar... The EC-30W.
When I was working on a Transit build (now cancelled, mainly since a family member feels too cramped in a "B"), one of the items I was considering doing was going with a 24 volt battery bank, and a Magnum Energy hybrid inverter that takes power from two 120VAC sources, either one by one, or both running. A nice bonus is that if there is a brownout, the inverter will boost voltage, using the batteries to compensate.
This is about a $3000 solution, factoring in the inverter, a generator controller, a control panel, and a battery monitor... but it will allow for seamless transitions of power between links.
I can understand carrying stuff that is dirty... but what I saw as the norm were not just gas cans, but oil cans, and other stuff that really belongs in a plastic tub in a storage bay, not coating the inside of a bathtub with industrial grease.
Sometimes you luck out buying used. A friend of mine bought a small travel trailer that was kept extremely well... and even had a decent battery bank, solar and an inverter... all for less than NADA low.
Guess I'll try local dealers, although they tend to be pricier than private sales.
I asked this question a few years back. I found that if you are getting proper voltage (like 120VAC), it is almost identical. However, if the CG's voltage is 110-115 volts, then there may be a performance difference.
I tend to leave mine on propane about 95% of the time. The 5% is when I have a generator running, so might as well have it set there. The propane use is about a quart (1 pound) a day.
As a performance helper, I would recommend some type of fan in the fridge and freezer. Valterra sells some small plastic fans that run for 4-6 weeks on a set of "D" batteries, and even though they move a small amount of air, it is good enough and helps noticeably.
I've seen very infrequent mention of bent hitch pins on various forums... and with all the people towing out there, this pretty much means that hitch pins are definitely not a weak link when towing for the most part.
I do know that I've had zero issues with the Bolt Lock I bought a few years back, and I've never read about a bent or damaged hitch pin, so even though the capacity may not be present or listed, it seems to be enough for most receivers.
Generally a propane tank only will fill up 3/4 of the way, because propane requires space for vapor pressure.
Of course, an Extend-A-Stay device does help, but then the problem moves to safely carrying propane cylinders.
Generally, restoring RVs are not worth it unless it has a brand name like Airstream, or there is something collectible about the motorhome, such as a specific type of design, like the six-wheel GMC chassis types.
If worried about it, and the rig isn't in warranty, hit a place like Five Star Tuning, and get a tuner, which will help with shift points and gear use. I've read good things about those devices, but personally have not used one.
When looking at a used "C", one thing I notice is that people use the bathroom to store stuff... and for some reason, it winds up being quite a smelly place, with some of the most noxious stuff stashed there.
Is this an exception, or is this the norm? I might use the tub for my soap bottles if I can't find a ZipLoc bag (so if there is a leak down the road, it is easily taken care of), but I don't toss anything and everything in there, especially things like leaky gasoline or diesel cans.
Before I bought my TT new, I looked at plenty of used rigs, and most were in such sorry shape that even though I would eat the depreciation cost on a new rig, it would be worth it... and it was. So far, I have had great luck with my existing TT, although it doesn't suit my needs at this time.
Wonder if it is the same with class "C"s, where buying new is more expensive... but is good overall for owning a rig for a number of years. I just can't figure out why people stash such nasty stuff in the shower.
I personally am keeping an eye on rvtrader.com, as well as what hits PPL.
Texas generally doesn't seem to have issues with rust... but water damaged rigs are fairly common, so look closely for stains, discolorations, or soft spots...
I do say "generally". I came across one rig that had a lot of rust damage... found it lived its life in another coastal state, then brought to Texas.
I found that draining the water heater completely, then letting it refill, so it has an air pocket, might cure any weeping issues. Or, if the valve is slightly leaky, it may not help, as the air goes out the valve, then water after it.
x2 on jwmII's advice:
I have owned expensive flashlights and the cheap ones. In my experience, the best thing to do is hit HF, Tractor Supply, or even Office Depot, buy a bunch of the el cheapo anodized aluminum flashlights. I toss one in every map pocket, cupholder, or container in my vehicle.
The most important thing is having a flashlight ready to go when you need one. The cheap ones may not throw 2000 lumens... but any lumens is better than none, and having quantity over quality is important.
Aluminum flashlights suffer a lot of fates. They get borrowed to never return. They wind up being placed somewhere and forgotten. The batteries leak rendering the device unusable. In any case, losing a $1 unit is a lot less sorrowful than a $100 light.
From what I see, Eternabond is the "permanent" way of fixing the problem, but with a few caveats:
1: As stated above, it needs to be applied to a clean surface. Acetone is a must, and if there is -any- silicon based stuff, it need to be removed.
2: To activate the microsealant, it takes heavy pressure with a metal roller. Don't try with a hand... it won't work, and you will just give yourself scrapes and blisters.
3: It needs done in warm weather. If it is cold, grab a can of EternaPrime which helps with dirty/uncleanable surfaces, and allows work to -20 degrees.
4: I'd caulk the edges of the EternaBond tape just for a better look. The downside of using EB is looks, so doing a neat job is important.
5: Once EB tape is down, it is a PITA to remove, so it is likely there to stay.