Enclosed cargo trailers are nice to have. I definitely am getting one, once I make the jump to a new rig (am biding my time because I don't have much vacation time right now until next year.)
I'm also not sure on size. I'd like something big enough to toss some solar panels, maybe go with 6-7 feet at the widest so there is room for adding panels on the sides that can fold out.
One thing I would consider with a trailer -- two doors. The usual one that opens from the back (be it a ramp or lockable double doors), and a side door that has a RV handle lock, as well as some barrel locks on the inside. That way, no matter what, one can get out, but a would-be thief would have issues getting in even if they broke open the RV handle. It also allows the trailer to function as additional sleeping space in a pinch.
The earlier Doubleback only seated two, so this is a bit of an improvement.
I've seen some Schwintek slide arrangements which were fairly creative. I like telescoping slides (a wall slide, then a dinette slide in that), but these add a lot of weight to a rig.
If you are in Dallas, I'd also consider looking at PPL. They can not just consign, but buy rigs outright if the price is right. Of course, this will be less than what you can get with CL, but it is an option.
Personal opinion as well:
There are some high quality class C makers out there. Lazy Daze is awesome. I read a lot of very happy people with Phoenix Cruisers. Born Free and Coach House are quite leak resistant due to the one piece fiberglass construction.
In general, if one compares the average "B" to a "C", the "B" is far less likely to have water intrusion problems, while a "C" has a good chance of having cabover rot (almost 100% if there is a front facing window.)
Fundamentally, when you buy a "B", you are buying a van with upfits. The walls are up to automotive crash standards, including airbags. The roof is aluminum or steel, and the doors are automotive grade.
When you buy a "C", you are buying a cutaway van with the box added by the RV maker. The standards of car safety it has to adhere to are far lower (which is why in a serious wreck, a "B" will be in one piece, most likely, while a "C" will be in small chunks across the roadway.)
All this aside, what matters is how well you like the rig, both parked/camping and on the road. A "B" is too small for some people and can feel cramped/unpleasant. For others, a "C" can be too big and awkward to park. I'd look at what fits best, then look at respective models.
A friend of mine had a similar issue with a cabin on his property that is mainly a glorified shed. It wasn't too expensive to slap up a set of panels, a PWM controller, and some LED lamps to light the cabin and the outside.
If things got too low (around 50-60% SOC), he had an el cheapo Harbor Freight ET800 clone generator that he would fill up and let clatter away on the porch of the outbuilding to charge the batteries using a cast-off car battery charger. After a few hours, it runs out of gas and shuts off... but the 800 watts is good enough to get the batteries to 90% or so SoC, where the panels can go from there. Of course, the generator isn't quiet... but the only things that will hear it are some deer and an armadillo or two.
To me it comes downtown how much you intend to travel. If you intend to move a lot and put a lot of miles on it, then MH. If you are more likely to stay a long time at each destination and only travel a relatively few miles each year, then 5er.
The only exception is the fact that with a MH, one can get a high MPG toad, so when the "A" is parked, running around an area isn't as bad.
However, there is always that rule of thumb -- if moving around often, a class "A" + toad. If staying in one place, the fiver and a one ton.
The reason is that it is a lot easier to go from camped to on the road with a class "A". Pretty much disconnect cables, pull slides in, lift jacks, hitch the toad, and be off. On the road, one can pull in a parking lot with an "A", and take a quick nap, harder to do than with a 5-er. Hitching and unhitching a trailer can take 30-45 minutes, and it is a process that cannot be hurried (lest one forget some doodad sticking out and cause thousands to tens of thousands in damage.)
If camping more than on the road, a trailer is better, because it is one less motor and drivetrain to keep maintained, fluids topped off, and registered.
Ron above nailed it.
Used motorhomes have different issues. The first is how the previous owner cared (or neglected) it. If the rig has sat out for years, the generator's carb is going to be shot, the tires likely will need to be replaced due to rot, the fridge is going to have entire civilizations of mold/mildew growing in it, and so on. A rig can be a top tier model, but if a window was left open and the floor is rotted, it might be worth scrap, if that.
Used can be pretty tough. First water leaks. If there is delam, bad smells, rotted/soft floors, or discolored/warped walls, run. Fixing cabover rot will be more expensive than pulling and replacing a dead V-10 and transmission.
If used is affordable, go with it... but be very careful, and buyer beware... RVs are not used cars, and there is no such thing as lemon laws. In fact, assume all used rigs are lemons until proven otherwise.
This is the only downside about a class "B" RV -- the slide/slam sound of the main entrance door. Most other rigs, I can hold the handle partway open so there is no noise opening/closing it.
As for alarms, the one nice thing about Ford factory installed alarms... no beeps unless you press the lock button on the remote while the vehicle it is locked, then it will honk the horn once. I usually lock my vehicle by hitting the "7/8" and "9/0" buttons on the door keypad. No noise except the moving of the door lock actuator mechanisms.
I saw a pretty cool setup that used Reflectix glued to Coroplast (the corrugated plastic normally used for signs.) On the other side of the Reflectix was tacked on an inexpensive blanket, mainly for looks and sound deadening ability.
For a class "C", this, coupled with some Velcro spots would separate the cab from the rest of the rig.
For keeping critters and bugs out, since my rig is quite out of warranty, I went with screens on the inlets and outlets on my furnace. Same with my refrigerator and water heater. Small spiders are one thing... Hornets or mud dauber wasps can plug a flue and cause major problems.
If I wanted to listen to a newer diesel loud and clear, I'd be breaking the law and EPA guidelines. All three pickup brands making one tons have decently quiet diesels, and Sprinters are no louder than a gasser. To boot, here in Texas, the DPS (similar organization to California's CHP) actively will pull, smog test on the spot, and scrape off inspection stickers of any modified, smoking diesels. (One can thank the coal rollers for that.)
Older diesels could be idled indefinitely, but a newer one will end up having the DPF plug up unless a high idle circuit is put in, and those particulate filters can get pricy. Plus, new diesels, when they break or wear out, it costs a lot of cash. The high pressure fuel rails give excellent MPG... but it takes a lot of engineering to do those right, and injectors are not cheap.
A local RT dealership has had a NV upfit on their lot for at least a year, if now more... no takers.
The Transit has one nice advantage... it is offered in a high top version, about 10 inches higher than the Sprinter in the US. I've thought of using this with a false floor (although it would take another step to get fully in the van) for adding a hydronic system and extra water tank space. Or use the extra ceiling room for a drop-down bed and more overhead space.
What I do for ice tea, and it works for coffee as well, is boil some water in a pan using the propane stove, then pour it over a one cup coffee brewer with a coffee filter that has loose tea leaves in it. No electricity needed in the process. It works exactly the same as a coffee maker (pour hot water over grounds), and doesn't require the generator to be on.
Around this time last year when I inquired with a would-be "B" maker that never got their product into the market, they pointed to a company called Nature's Head for a RV composting toilet. It was designed to split up #1 and #2. #1 ended up in a bottle that one was expected to go and dump somewhere, and #2 ended up in a bucket, and had to be "seeded" with a peat moss bag after being emptied.
For a true boondocker, someone who would be able to find a place to dump the urine, and then take the time to spread out the compost and "reload" with another bag of peat moss, not having to worry about black tank dumping might be what they want. However, this type of RV use wouldn't be that common because having to scoop poop in various stages of fermentation would only appeal to the most die-hard boondockers... and even then, the boondocking trips would be limited to the amount of fresh water.
I think it is a decent option for the relatively few who want a "B" for long term off-road use, but for me, I rather have a conventional black/gray tank setup, as almost all "B"s except Sportsmobile Ford Econoline upfits are more designed for touring and trips, not long dry camping stays.
Tiny houses can be well insulated. I am following a YouTube channel of one person building his own tiny house, and he has multiple layers of insulation, from the wood siding, to the tar paper, to the rockwool insulation, to a sheet of Reflectix, finally to some paper and the inside wood slats, with proper air gaps between the rockwool and the Reflectix. Since he built his house on a travel trailer frame, he did similar with insulation for the floor, as well as added skirting and flashing on the bottom as a barrier to insects and rodents. I'm sure that his place in the northeast is going to handle the upcoming winter quite well, especially with his wood stove.
For a computer, I think one of my eventual purchases will be a Macbook Pro or Air. I have one from 2008 (the aluminum Macbook before it was renamed the MBP), but even though it runs Yosemite, it definitely is time for a new computer. The touchscreen on those is definitely nice, especially once one gets used to the various multi finger gestures. My only issue with Macbooks is that Apple ditched the Kensington lock slot, and it would be nice to have even a slight theft deterrent while I'm away from the vehicle.
In general and in most states you will only be able to drop the comp part of the insurance. That will save you a considerable amount of money. And just add it back on come spring. But if a tree falls on your RV ort someone backs into it where it's parked you're screwed.
And it's a moot point if you have a loan on your RV. You lender will REQUIRE that you keep full comp insurance on the 'their' collateral.
I kept full insurance on my MH when I was parking it for the winter.
Of all my toys the MH is the least expensive insurance bill I have.
x2. Never know if a tree may fall, or some meth-head might try to trash a rig. There is always the specter of hail, especially in Texas.
There have been some Sportsmobile people who have even gone as far as having a fresh water recirculation line that came out of the water heater, followed the pipes, circled around the tanks, then emptied back in the FW tank. Of course, I would bet it would be a PITA to drain for winterization, but it is an innovative concept.
I also have seen European hydronic systems from Espar and Truma that can heat water, coolant (so one can have that circulate near the tanks and not worry about that closed loop freezing when the van isn't used), and air at the same time.
I use Boxcryptor and two factor authentication. That way, if a bad guy got my password, they will still have to figure out what the six digit code sent via SMS was. After that, they would have a directory full of encrypted files with random names and the .bc extension
I know that in south Texas, selling propane/butane mixes as propane isn't unheard of, as few people would find out, and butane is cheaper, and any problems with burning are attributed to bad regulators.
So, someone who bought that might end up with problems when going north.
The MHSRV place sells it for $68911.00. This model isn't really a "B", but a Winnebago Trend competitor, with one floor plan similar to the 23B, and the other floorplan mimicing the Winnebago ERA 70A, except a tad wider, and the sofa about a foot longer.