I do a two stage process:
1: After Dump a couple jugs of the cheap wino/frat rat vodka into the FW tank. Run it through all the lines until it comes out all faucets.
2: Attach compressed air hose, blow lines out. Any water remaining in the lines will be mixed with ethanol and the freezing point will be low enough to not have lines crack here in Texas.
A northern state, I wouldn't recommend this. However, the nice thing about doing this is that ethanol kills bacteria. I still sanitize the lines anyway, but this method means no foul taste after a rinse or two.
In the country, I see trucks and vehicles pulling over. I do it all the time with the two lane, full shoulder roads, since I'm usually going the speed limit (and would rather just let someone zoom by.) However, get near any city... that behavior completely disappears, replaced by the middle finger.
I changed out the ch751 locks not because of security, but because the keys are flimsy zinc/brass construction and tend to break. Amazon has "automotive grade camlocks" which are generic double-sided locks that have a shutter to keep out dirt. These have worked reasonably well.
I found a place, lsidepot.com, that has Medeco and Abloy cam locks for $20-$25 each. I might go this route, not because the locks will be more secure, but because they will still be working a long time from now, and they can come with dust caps.
Look at yachting equipment (Google "Scandvik faucet"). You will not find anything in an RV store that has even close to the quality of the cheapest Home Depot faucet. I replaced my cheap plastic shower mixer with a Scandvik single lever, I believe they also make diverter units.
Now you have me curious what marine shops can do for RVs. Prices are more expensive... but you do get what you pay for.
What would fix it would be adding a 1 penny charge per transaction. Would completely stop the HFT race.
As for stocks, I buy and hold, although even then I've gotten burned, as I had a lot of GM stock pre-bankruptcy (and no, the shares of GM right now are reissued shares... the shares pre-collapse are completely different and worth a cent or two at most.)
I also like stocks which pay dividends. Have those go back to reinvesting helps things. Even if the stock dips, the quarterly cash coming from it does help.
There are also pump and dump schemes. Those are becoming so common, even late night TV has ads for people to buy some new and unheard of tech company's stocks. Of course, 3-6 months later, if I get bored and pull the stock chart, it shows the big bump in trading and value, followed by the crash, so someone is making a mint on those.
Had that happen a couple years ago at a CG in east Texas. A neighbor had their toad's fuel filler door torn off and their tank punched on their "A". Ironically, my truck had three full five gallon gas cans in the bed (tied down with bungee cables) for my generator, and was untouched.
I wouldn't say thieves are smart. It is not uncommon to read about some meth-heads trying to cut down a live electric wire, only to get zapped, or find out that the wire is aluminum or CCA. A couple years back, I had the "output" of my bag toilet stolen in a heist where a truck pulled next to mine at a truck stop (I was inside buying a drink), a guy jumped from truck bed to truck bed, grabbed my garbage, then took off going the wrong way on the highway. The attendant offered to call the sheriff, but for $0 loss, why even bother.
Here in Texas, roof vent covers allow one to have a vent fan run for air circulation. Having a Fantastic Fan with a rain sensor is doable... but you are trusting a $1 piece of electronics from China to protect tens of thousands of dollars worth of stuff.
One idea I plan to do is see about a roof cover, but add a filter, then run the fan backwards (so it sucks air in, rather than blowing it out.) This would create a nice positive pressure to keep dust out.
I'd probably use two Battery Minders. If you have no parasitic loads, the one amp-hour model is good enough. If you do, get the eight amp model. That way, both sets of batteries are maintained and desulfated.
As an alternative to a two stage furnace, I wonder about a vented Platinum Cat system. The fan it uses is a lot smaller and takes less energy than the fans forcing air through the RV furnace's heat exchanger.
If I had to reduce my must-haves from my relatively long list to a few, it would be a fiberglass or metal roof, Azdel sides, E-450/V10 chassis, and an onboard genset.
One thing I'm curious about... are heat pumps that better than a conventional A/C unit with a heat strip? Below 40 degrees, heat pumps stop working, but a heat strip may not be as effective as a Vornado space heater (or similar), but would definitely help supplement the furnace.
I saw the crowdsourced fundraiser for that. Interesting ideas, and has a novel concept or two, such as the built in blender, but I wonder how long the battery would last on that, just as stated above.
I like the idea, but I don't see myself buying it, because I either need a cooler to take stuff to or from my TT's refrigerator, or as a place to stick drinks near my rig, and I don't want to spend more than I have to for that, unless it is a cooler with good insulation that can last a long time.
Rephrasing, to make sure I got this:
You have a 50 amp connector. On one leg, you will have the 30 amp shore power. On the other leg, you want to run a Honda generator? Or, do you want both the 30 amp power and the Honda generator on the same legs.
I don't know if this can be done safely, because either the Honda would get yanked into phase with shore power, the generator gets killed by the backfeed, or you get 240 volts where 120 is expected.
I'd check Amazon reviews. I've used one product (Ospho?) that was a decent primer, and used phosphoric acid to turn rust into a more stable compound. Then added a paint on top of that. All this after a good brushing, cleaning and letting the surface air-dry for a while.
A long list of mine that are essential (to me, that is), and are deal breakers if not present:
1: E-450 chassis, V-10 engine.
2: Rear view camera.
3: Auto-level jacks.
4: Azdel or aluminum sides.
5: Fiberglass or one piece metal roof, both crowned and folded around the top by a few inches.
6: The chassis having a remote for the door locks, and the keypad.
7: A 300 watt inverter, PSW. This would allow me to charge low-energy stuff like cellphones and tablets overnight.
8: A water heater bypass for winterizing.
9: Solar pre-wired.
10: A 5000 pound tow hitch.
11: Multi-stage converter, so I can keep the rig plugged in when at home.
12: An inbuilt generator that uses the fuel tank on the chassis.
13: An EMS, so low voltage won't burn out the A/C compressor, or plugging into 240 will give a display error code, and not a fried rig.
14: Fantastic Fan, 12 volt, with thermostat, ability to run forward/reverse, and rain sensor.
15: Tank heating pads and pipes wrapped with heating tape.
Not essential, but nice to have:
1: An electric awning.
2: Quigley 4x4 conversion.
3: Macerator pump with emergy outlet and gray water dump. I saw one used motorhome that actually had both a macerator pump and a regular gravity dump for emergencies. That way, you always have a way to empty the tanks out.
4: Full solar system, MPPT charger, with panels on top.
5: 300 amp-hours of battery life.
6: A full-time, "hybrid" PSW inverter. This way, no matter what the power is on the charging side, all appliances either get 120VAC or 0 VAC.
7: An audio head with Bluetooth hands free calling and playing music for when driving.
8: Full size spare tire.
9: Roof ladder.
10: Generator management system, so if the batteries get low, the genset fires up... assuming no quiet hours set.
11: A Cheap Heat system so if on hookups, no propane would be needed.
12: A water heater with both electric and propane.
13: A convection microwave/oven.
14: An accumulator tank so the water pump is quieter.
15: Mounts on the roof for RotoPax gasoline containers.
Pie in the sky wants:
1: A rear hitch that can tow more than 5000 pounds.
2: A 5500 watt generator, and 50 amp service (in reality, one leg for one A/C, the other for the second A/C and everything else.)
3: 1200 ampere-hours in the battery bank, so a residential fridge can be used when boondocking.
4: A hydronic system with a radiator in each storage compartment and near the tanks.
5: A Platinum Cat system, so I can minimize the use of the normal furnace when boondocking.
6: Fold-out solar panels on the sides.
7: A flexible solar panel on the awning as well.
8: A propane fuel cell like the Truma VeGA model. That would mean no worry about keeping batteries topped off, and would mean an efficient compressor refrigerator can be used while boondocking.
9: A clean-out, watertight hatch to all three tanks, 8-12 inches in diameter. This way, if there is a poop pyramid, it can be dealt with by a plastic scraper and a wet/dry vac, and clogs are easy to deal with.
A bedroom A/C can be noisy as well. Even my ducted A/C is loud enough to be distracting at times. Some of the portable A/Cs that vent out a window are surprisingly quiet.
I wish someone can make a portable A/C with one duct going to the outside, another duct going elsewhere. That way, the bedroom door can be closed, deadening the noise from the A/C, while it keeps the area cool.