This is definitely one reason for a "B". Not as dramatic as the tunnel, but there are some two lane highways near the Texas Renaissance Faire which 102 inches is taking up the complete lane and some in the center. Come a semi, one or the other vehicle will be in the ditch (no shoulder), or there will be a meeting of the mirrors.
My sailboats gray tank is just a hole in the side of the hull. So it never fills up. Great idea.
On my last project, we couldn't get a permit for a septic tank for a building's bathroom. So we ended up with what we called a "turd burner". Essentially it was a tank with a flame-thrower inside it. Funny thing was people asked us if it was safe to give a courtesy flush while still sitting down. :D
An incinolet? You put a piece of paper on the metal plate, do your business, hit the lever, and the "output" plus the paper drop into the bottom and get barbecued in short order.
The ironic thing, I remember Dometic offering this for RVs way back in the past... it used the motorhome's exhaust to burn what normally goes in the black water tank.
I would like to see it up close. It is about $10,000 more than a Travato, but the floor plan isn't as oddball. I really like the PW dealer in my neck of the woods, so buying there would be decent.
To me, tank sizes are crucial, and engineering. I don't want to have to turn on a drain pump when in the shower, and I don't want to have to use another pump to move the gray water (which means I can't use a macerator pump for the black water.) The ideal would be a macerator pump like RTs which the hose stows in a bay, no need to carry a sewage hose inside, but a gravity dump works, and I can always clap a portable macerator pump onto that.
If the chassis is non-PATS and keys are not chipped.... Random thought.... Dealer installed alarm? All my Fords have come with one of those dealer installed KARR alarm type systems. If you don't want it, they just "deactivate" it, but it is still there, and can cause problems. I was doing some electrical repair to my 2001 focus, which had one installed way back when but never used, and after 12 years it activated. I could not start the car, and had no way to do anything with the system. I had to completely remove the KARR module and reconnect the start relay wire. Not too difficult but very anoying. There was one on my old 95 Ranger that did something similar. Now the one on our 07 Expy is malfunctioning. I hate these things. This is not likely your problem, but what the heck :)
I never thought of that, but some dealers will do exactly like the above, and slice wires almost willy nilly to install one of these type of systems, as a second method for theft prevention. For them, it works well, as it keeps the vehicles on the car lot. However, these can cause nasty problems if the wires are not soldered/crimped right. A bad alarm system install can make a vehicle undrivable, and take as much money to fix as a blown engine.
Even with blowing lines out, there are low points that might still have water in them. Since I live in a warmer climate, I just run vodka through the lines, then blow them out. Any water is then mixed with alcohol which doesn't bring the freezing point down that much... but enough for Texas winters.
Sounds like the dealer has some explaining to do, and they need to at least pay for the Ford dealer to reset the PATS system and give her two working keys.
Just one valet key is unacceptable. Even more so if the rig is new, because it means a key was stolen, as newer Ford PATS systems will not work unless they have at least two keys programmed in.
The generator is a 6000 watt Onan diesel model. It is more than enough for both A/Cs... but because both are starting at once, it is eating 120 locked rotor amps.
I wonder if there is a way to have one A/C just have the fan run while the other A/C starts up, then the second A/C would start its compressor. I also wonder if a hard start capacitor would help as well, as described above, but with both compressors firing up at once, I don't think even that would help.
Pianotuna is also right about generator exhaust... I'd consider a Gen-Turi kit since it gets the exhaust to disperse a lot better, and not around the coach.
Long term, I won't be surprised if Ford comes out with a T-450 or T-550 that uses an EcoBoost V8.
Here are my two cents:
There are a lot of people posting on the forums. If the Ford E-series chassis was sub-par, there would be post after post about the horror stories. Because of the lack of complaints, it shows the chassis is pretty good.
Does this mean a Chevy is bad? Not really. It has a smaller doghouse than the Fords, except has more hood space. Similar with Sprinters, as they have no doghouse.
To me, I like service availability. If I get stuck in the sticks, a Ford dealer is easy to find. A Chevy dealer may not have parts, but will get them in a day or so. A Mercedes or Freightliner dealer may not bother with Sprinters, so it may take a 300 mile tow to a place that does.
Of course, the V-10 is a thirsty engine, but the cost difference between the Ford platform and the Sprinter can pay for a lot of gas.
ePlastics has Lexan in shades of tint (gray, smoked, etc.) This might be an idea to help keep the vehicle from turning into a greenhouse.
For winter, it will condense... unless you can use 3M Indoor Window Insulator or some other film that tapes around the side of the window, then shrinks into place with a hair dryer. Maybe there is a way to add dessicant in that space to minimize the amount of humidity as well.
I saw an interesting way to handle battery lugs (the ones that are sealed:
1: Put heat shrink tubing on, move it well away from where the action is going to take place.
2: Pour molten solder into the lug, keep the lug heated.
3: Shove wires in, crimp. Let cool.
4: Move heat shrink tube back into place, heat that to seal the connection.
I've never tried this, but other than the fact that the lug has to be kept heated during the crimping process, would this be workable? The advantage of this is that the solder would help prevent oxidation.
I do a two stage process:
1: After Dump a couple jugs of the cheap wino/frat rat vodka into the FW tank. Run it through all the lines until it comes out all faucets.
2: Attach compressed air hose, blow lines out. Any water remaining in the lines will be mixed with ethanol and the freezing point will be low enough to not have lines crack here in Texas.
A northern state, I wouldn't recommend this. However, the nice thing about doing this is that ethanol kills bacteria. I still sanitize the lines anyway, but this method means no foul taste after a rinse or two.
In the country, I see trucks and vehicles pulling over. I do it all the time with the two lane, full shoulder roads, since I'm usually going the speed limit (and would rather just let someone zoom by.) However, get near any city... that behavior completely disappears, replaced by the middle finger.
I changed out the ch751 locks not because of security, but because the keys are flimsy zinc/brass construction and tend to break. Amazon has "automotive grade camlocks" which are generic double-sided locks that have a shutter to keep out dirt. These have worked reasonably well.
I found a place, lsidepot.com, that has Medeco and Abloy cam locks for $20-$25 each. I might go this route, not because the locks will be more secure, but because they will still be working a long time from now, and they can come with dust caps.
Look at yachting equipment (Google "Scandvik faucet"). You will not find anything in an RV store that has even close to the quality of the cheapest Home Depot faucet. I replaced my cheap plastic shower mixer with a Scandvik single lever, I believe they also make diverter units.
Now you have me curious what marine shops can do for RVs. Prices are more expensive... but you do get what you pay for.
What would fix it would be adding a 1 penny charge per transaction. Would completely stop the HFT race.
As for stocks, I buy and hold, although even then I've gotten burned, as I had a lot of GM stock pre-bankruptcy (and no, the shares of GM right now are reissued shares... the shares pre-collapse are completely different and worth a cent or two at most.)
I also like stocks which pay dividends. Have those go back to reinvesting helps things. Even if the stock dips, the quarterly cash coming from it does help.
There are also pump and dump schemes. Those are becoming so common, even late night TV has ads for people to buy some new and unheard of tech company's stocks. Of course, 3-6 months later, if I get bored and pull the stock chart, it shows the big bump in trading and value, followed by the crash, so someone is making a mint on those.
Had that happen a couple years ago at a CG in east Texas. A neighbor had their toad's fuel filler door torn off and their tank punched on their "A". Ironically, my truck had three full five gallon gas cans in the bed (tied down with bungee cables) for my generator, and was untouched.
I wouldn't say thieves are smart. It is not uncommon to read about some meth-heads trying to cut down a live electric wire, only to get zapped, or find out that the wire is aluminum or CCA. A couple years back, I had the "output" of my bag toilet stolen in a heist where a truck pulled next to mine at a truck stop (I was inside buying a drink), a guy jumped from truck bed to truck bed, grabbed my garbage, then took off going the wrong way on the highway. The attendant offered to call the sheriff, but for $0 loss, why even bother.