So, no freezer when boondocking. Definitely a no in my book, as I like having ice.
I'd rather just have the LP gas fridge/freezer, and buy an "ice chest" Dometic compressor fridge, so I have the best of all worlds, a place to chill drinks quickly, as well as keeping stuff cold when not plugged into electric.
My two centavos:
1: Take lots of pictures.
2: Call the police, get a report number.
3: Call your insurance company, get a claim in.
4: Get it repaired, call it done. Take the deductible off your taxes if there is one.
Another stop sign? Not sure if it will help. The Aussies have systems that spray fine water drops onto the air, then use a laser array to light up a big "STOP" sign, and even then, a lot of truck drivers do the "can opener" trying to drive into a tunnel.
That is a cool idea for using Aquatainers, but I worry that someone would get them confused with potable water, chug one, and expire messily. Maybe if someone could make some rotocast containers designed for non-potable water with obvious, "do not drink" markings, as well as a proper color container, so someone doesn't confuse it with gas cans or diesel cans either.
Here in Texas, from May to September, either one is using a generator to power an A/C (a swamp cooler won't do, because it is humid as well), one is parked with hookups, or one isn't going to try camping. It is just too hot, and fans just blow around the humid air, and offer little to no relief.
Without A/C, it -might- be possible with older rigs with large, vented windows (the louver design that was commonplace.) With new RVs that have small windows, only a part of it is openable... no way, just because there is no way to circulate air effectively.
I read a lot of people who are from Canada or northern areas which are surprised by the fact that people actually use A/Cs most of the day... but 100-110 degrees (38 degrees C) is not sustainable indoors for long periods of time, especially with a high humidity level.
(Knock on wood), I'm happy with my gas absorption fridge. It may not chill food as fast as a compressor fridge, but it works well on propane. I'm not planning to change anytime soon, and I definitely would buy a rig with the same model. Only quibble is that I don't like the slobber tube and the need for airing position cards to keep the doors ajar when not in use.
True, but the opinions people have on this forum tend to be a lot more useful than what one's search engine of choice can cough up.
For example, the generator I bought was influenced by what people mentioned here, and I am still quite happy with the purchase.
I love the clever use of connectors. I wound up using jumper cables and a "poop battery" whose sole job was to provide the 20 amps for the pump, and was kept trickle charged.
I would highly recommend the FloJet. A few items I found:
1: Get a stool or portable chair to sit on. kneeling to attach and man the pump is not fun for the back.
2: Get a transparent sleeve between the sewage port and the macerator pump. You want to shut off the macerator pump just as it empties, because it will burn out and destroy itself if run dry for more than a few seconds.
3: With the pump in place, you can empty the black tank, then open both valves, allow the gray tank to backflush the black, then empty that... saves a lot of water, and does the same job for clog prevention.
4: I personally use a black rubber hose with words on it plainly marked, "NOT FOR POTABLE WATER". The hose I use to flush out the macerator pump is green, and has vacuum breaker check valves on both ends. My white fresh water hoses are stashed in a separate compartment.
5: I used an extra-wide hose, especially when going distances of 50 to 100 feet.
6: The pump gets stored in its own plastic tub with a tight-fitting lid, and it, as well as the hoses get capped after use.
7: This isn't the OP's use, but if using a "blue boy" waste tank with a pickup truck, place it in the truck bed while it is empty, use the macerator pump to fill it up, drive to the dump station, hook up a slinky, and let gravity do the work. This is a lot easier than trying to heave a full tank into the truck bed.
If I were to recommend something... I'd buy a Big Buddy heater and a six pack of 16 ounce Coleman propane bottles. Make sure you have some ventilation in your rig, keep the Buddy heater away from anything flammable, and note that burning propane does add water into the air... but it can come in handy, because it may not be as nice as the RV's furnace... but it is nicer than getting sick due to cold.
Long term, you really need two batteries. One battery won't last the night, and if it does, it will be below 50% SoC and take damage. A few weekends of this, the battery will be completely trashed and only useful for a core charge refund.
After that, check your converter. If it is not a multi-stage converter, replace it for a good multi-stage unit (preferably a five-stage with a pendant, so you can equalize the batteries.)
From there, a generator. Two Honda eu2000i units and a parallel cable is a setup which offers the most flexibility. A 3000 watt unit is also an alternative, but requires to people to heave around.
After that, solar. Solar panels and a decent charger (I always recommend MPPT controllers, since they can feed the battery the charge it needs at the state of charge, be it float, bulk, absorption, or desulfation.) This will also ensure that while your rig is in storage, the batteries will be always topped off and ready to go.
After that, it really goes to personal preference.
The 2400 watt Yamaha is a good unit, but it is "neither fish, nor fowl". There are many threads on good/bad luck with getting it to start various sized A/Cs, and 13,500 is probably the breaking point.
As mentioned above, I wouldn't bother with the 2400 watt Yamaha. I'd either get a set of Honda eu2000i generators and run them in parallel or a 3000+ wattage inverter generator. The Honda twins give you a lot of flexibility, while the 3000+ watt generator can give you remote start.
Just what I've seen, unless one caulks a roof often (all it takes is a small crack or gap for a water leak), or uses something more permanent like Eternabond, eventually the roof will get a leak somewhere, likely imperceptible. This doesn't mean that fiberglass roofs are 100% leakproof, but they have far fewer seams to worry about.
The crazy thing: Two rigs with identical floor plans (Sunseeker 22SLEF and a Thor Freedom Elite 22FE), chassis (both E-450s), and amenities, the difference in price that they sell for at local dealerships is over $30,000. The biggest difference? The Sunseeker has a fiberglass roof. So, for that big a price difference, I'm sure there is some way I can make a TPO roof be able to keep from leaking for the long haul.
There are a few class "C" models that are nice... but my biggest complaint is that they have a TPO or EPDM roof, which pretty much stamps an expiration date on the rig in 4-5 years.
Any recommendations to shoring up the roof to help with leak prevention? Eternabond comes to mind (it actually can come in 48" widths, so two rolls of that could cover the entire roof), as well as finding a place that is similar to rvroof.com that can do an epoxy elastomer spray, which essentially makes the roof seamless, so there are no gaps that water can get past.
Even with beam torque wrenches, I still have encountered problems. I used a beam wrench to validate how tight I had a spare tire... found out it was off by 20 foot/pounds, and I wound up the proud owner of a new rotor because it warped it that badly.
These days, I just use clickers. Torque sticks look good to get things to the right range, but I wouldn't call the job done until I use a real torque wrench.
The days of "tighten it until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn" are behind us, especially with how relatively thin various parts are and how being off by just a few pounds can cause damage.
I have a nice set of keys as well:
1: Key to bedroom door.
2: Key to rear door.
3: Key to pass through compartments.
4: Key to generator.
5: Key to padlock on spare tire.
6: Key to padlocks on the BAL X-chocks.
7: Key to padlock for trailer wheel chain.
8: Key to hitch padlock.
9: Key to hitch lock.
10: Key to lock for one generator chain.
11: Key to lock for second generator chain.
12: Key to black storage chest.
13: Key to padlocks on the storage chest.
14: Key to strongbox.
15: Key to locking lug nuts.
At least I have a Bolt lock for the hitch receiver pin, so most stuff connected to my truck is just using a single key.
The trick is to have the snap traps (like the Jawz type) that have a wide trigger plate, and locate them where the rodents run by. Even using these with no bait was effective. Sticky pads do work as well, but they can make a big mess.
I would go with Fantastic Vent because they have an outstanding reputation.
My next rig, this is something almost a must have, especially with a vent cover. Come the Texas summer, with a vent cover (just in case a summer shower blows over), this would allow the rig to be ventilated so it doesn't get past 110-120 degrees inside.