First and foremost, I'd get the furnace fixed, or replace it with a vented Platinum Cat, as suggested previously. Combustion gases belong on the outside of your rig, and not where you breathe them.
Yes, a Buddy heater is a decent heat source. I used one when tent camping. It worked well, and because of the large rainfly, which made it fairly drafty, ventilation wasn't a problem, and it sat on an aluminum table, so a fire hazard was minimized.
There are four important caveats with a Buddy heater:
1: Even though the backside and bottom side are cool, the front and above it can get hot. In a RV, it really needs to be combined with a fan blowing above it (not directly on the heater, since it would blow the pilot out, but above it to circulate the warm air.) The Big Buddy heater has a fan built in, and that can use batteries or with an adapter, A/C power. At the front, it can easily catch bedding on fire if stuff comes in contact.
2: If you use the 1 pound propane bottles, you will wake up in the middle of the night freezing when they run out. Learned this firsthand. Low setting lasts about 4-6 hours, high, about 2-3, and the regular sized Buddy will need to be run on high to keep a typical RV warm.
You can hook the Buddy heater to a propane hose. Now comes the tough choice. Some people are able to tee off their RV's propane system safely and have the Buddy heater use that. However, this should be done by an expert, since it does require a fuel petcock (so one can disconnect the Buddy heater and still use the stove, fridge, water heater, etc.) You can also run a propane hose directly to a bigger propane cylinder. However, one has to find a way to locate the cylinder outside for safety's sake.
3: Burning propane makes a lot of water vapor. In a closed RV, this can cause problems over time, maybe even water damage.
4: There is the issue of ventilation. This is a tough one because too little ventilation is dangerous, too much can wind up venting the precious warm air outside.
There is nothing dangerous about a Buddy heater if basic guidelines (which are spelled out in its owner's manual) are followed. I keep one, but it is something used as a last resort, where my propane furnace, and a generator and electric heater are either broken or can't be used (out of fuel.)
As of ~2011, Generac generators were discontinued for RVs.
As far as I know, the only onboard gensets available now are Onans, or for diesel, the 3000 watt PowerTech. Yes, one could spend the ten grand and go for a marine grade 5000 watt Kohler... but if that breaks, you pay marine grade prices to fix it.
I think there is a market niche available. If someone could make a generator that used EFI, an inverter (so the genset could run at an idle), and perhaps a small battery to absorb load until the engine got up to speed, they would make a mint. Even a generator going with four poles instead of two would be nice (1800 RPM instead of 3600), or using oil pressure instead of splash lubricating.
There are similarities between audiophiles and pro audio installation. Both will spend time building a room to make for a good stereo image. However, the studio person is content with metal speaker stands, as opposed to spending thousands for specialized granite pillars or mahogany knobs for the pre-amp. There is a point of diminishing returns, and a point where no ear is good enough to tell differences, even for a master mixing tech (who knows the difference between making a mix for LP, CD, radio, and directly to iTunes.)
The ironic thing is that the pro stuff can be used for audiophile work, but usually not the other way around.
The funny thing is the difference between "audiophile" expensive stuff (specialized wood knobs, overpriced cables), versus studio/professional grade equipment.
For example, a set of pro grade monitor speakers are similar in price to midrange "audiophile" stuff, but the monitors will have a proven flat response which is necessary for an accurate mix (boomy bass can always be tossed in later), while the "audiophile" stuff... who knows.
Pro grade stuff is for people who spend money to do audio for a living, and it doesn't live up to the rigors of the studio and gigging, it is not worth having. "Audiophile" stuff doesn't really have to do much other than maybe look cool.
The Toylok looks like a good idea. I'm looking at buying an enclosed cargo trailer, and I might see about mounting 2-3 of those (one on each side, one on the back.) That way, I could set up solar panel frames, and they will have some resistance to walking off.
If I couldn't weld the ToyLok directly on the frame, I'd definitely use shear nuts from FastenRight that have a section for the wrench, and once it reaches a proper torque, it will shear off, leaving a conical-shaped section of bolt which only really can be removed via a cutting wheel. To ensure it doesn't come off, LocTite Red is also useful.
The entire chunk of Texas I'm at (Texas Hill Country) is now a disaster area. I have to thank God that I live on a hill, because it deluged constantly over the weekend... but all of that went into storm drains. Other people are not so lucky, because a lot of houses are now floatsam and jetsam in the Colorado River. My RV managed to survive (AFIAK) intact, although a twister did take out chicken coops nearby at the property my rig is stored on.
To boot, storms are predicted all this week for this area.
My recommendation: If you want to visit this part of Texas, visit sometime in June. It is a mess here with flooding actually worse than the 1981 Memorial Day flood which destroyed a chunk of downtown Austin.
I've gone a few years using shorts, underwear, towel, Crocs, and Bronner's liquid soap for the shower areas I've used. So far, so good. However, I've been lucky -- there has always been a dry place to hang up stuff.
If I'm on a public Wi-Fi, I like being on as short a time period as possible, even with the "no incoming traffic" checked on the firewall. Once I'm done, I disconnect.
For Windows updates, I've found it is faster to run "WSUS Offline", which does its business extremely quickly, and you can copy the updates to a USB flash drive and update other Windows boxes without needing to burn up one's bandwidth allotment.
I think there is a utility available for the Mac where you can throttle programs like mail.app so they only use a certain amount of bandwidth at most. I think Little Snitch might offer that functionality.
If there is no damage from a forced entry, it is a lot harder to get a claim through. Mike Wendland mentioned that.
If I have to store my rig in a high crime area, I'd leave things latched (but unlocked), notes stating that, and a dud TV or laptop in one of the bays. That way, the local tweakers get off with something, and don't trash the rig.
However, since I store my rig well out of the city limits, it stays locked. I lock the doors, storage compartment, and have locks (security chains + ABUS padlocks) for the wheels, as well as a "token" hitch lock just to show a would-be thief the rig isn't theirs. This helps with theft of the vehicle.
Now, burglary is a different story. I leave things locked and park my rig miles from a paved road just because I don't feel like surrendering and letting the meth-heads have their own "pick and pull" of their own choosing. Since cars and RVs are easy targets (just smash the glass), the only real method of defense is strongboxes that are well bolted down. For example, ConsoleVault for the middle compartment, and a Tuffy under rear seat lockbox for under the seat. Since it will take a good amount of time with hand tools to get past those, it helps keep the valuable stuff away from the smash/grabbers.
In general, if it is lockable, I lock it. Just old habit from growing up when Austin's economy was in the dumps, and if it wasn't not just bolted, but welded down, it was gone.
Don't buy a cheap one. I bought a model that was OK, but a generic Chinese one that had a good rep... only to find that even though it said it was recording... it hadn't touched the SD card in months.
I wish the microphone could be turned off with the Garmin.
The Costco around here has lines so long that it just isn't worth it to me. I'd rather just drive outside of Austin so I don't pay urban hipster prices, and it is about the same.
Ironically HEB grocery stores have gas stations that have just as good prices as Costco if not better.
Of course, shopping-wise, Costco is something worth hitting, so it might be worth checking out on an off hour.
I've lived in Texas all life as well, and I've seen threatening weather, but no twisters hitting the ground. In reality, the biggest hazard I face day to day are drivers on the road.
I'd make sure you have a functioning A/C and electricity (generator or electrical campsite), as well as a good supply of cool drinks. Generally after this time in May, the weather gets hot and stays hot until September or October.
I remember when Lake Travis used to get partially drained to kill the hydrilla... well due to the long drought and the sterile (I hope) carp, that plant is long gone. I just hope the lake fills up because all the people moving to Austin are sure doing their part in trying to drain it.
I wouldn't mind a rear-engined gasser, but if the price is too high, it might not be worth it compared to a real DP.
Love the fact that a generator (wonder if it is a true APU) is built into the chassis.
I have thought about that, especially buying some vacant land for cheap around the El Paso area which is a frequent place where one needs to find a place to sleep. It wouldn't take that much money to have a bulldozer level the entire site, add an entrance/exit, paint some rough parking lines, then put an "iron ranger" in place with envelopes.
Well, until insurance, zoning, and taxes came into the picture. Then, there is the security aspect. I'm guessing a security guard is $20 an hour, so there will need to be at least 24 people paying $10 a night, every night, to make up for that cost.
The more I research campgrounds, the more I am amazed they make any money at all, especially with all the regulations, codes, and other items needed, for such a relatively low density.