I don't know any dealers who will do warranty work unless the RV was purchased from that shop. The only exception is Camping World, which is a big plus in my book.
On the other hand, if the RV maker's factory is close by, it may be worth going that route.
X2... there are so many variables, that a photo of the sliding drawer would help immensely. Depending on how it is engineered, it might be possible to do as above, or perhaps replace/have a carpenter replace the slides with ones that can be detached in the future to allow lost item retrieval.
I'm back with another issue...what's new!! I've got the HWH hydraulic levelers on this Fleetwood RV, and the right rear doesn't swing down but does extend. Found the problem to be a broken cable and have called HWH to get the part but was told that they would have to call me back, and I haven't heard anything yet.
The part I need is RAP7194 Actuator Kit, which is the cable and the lock nuts. Does anyone know of another source for these parts? I know there are Dealers out there for HWH but not sure about who would stock replacement parts, or if there is an aftermarket replacement for the cable.
Thanks in advance
I'd just order it from HWH. $38.94 + shipping.
Bikes are just too easy to steal. If I'm not sitting on it or doing something with it, I lock it. It only takes seconds for someone to hop on and ride off, or grab it, stuff it in a car, and head for the hills... and even though the bike's frame may have the serial number registered with the local popo... most bikes past the department store junk can be disassembled and parted out for more than what the bike cost (especially wheels, forks, derailleurs, and brakes), so the bad guys know this and just break up the bikes to sell at a flea market a county or two over.
I worked in a previous life at a university in Austin, which used to be one of the top 10 cities for bike theft. It had gotten better, but there was a time when bike theft was so bad, that people would even steal forks, pedals, wheels, and other parts. From the university setting, it is an ingrained behavior of mine to lock things up, and use European "insurance locks" for the job.
This could be a problem that can go on, so pretty much the OP has two choices... let it drip and etch the counter, or toss it and be done with it. It isn't worth the hassle.
I'd pay the $419 and replace it.
As per above posts, it might be something different. It could even be possible that some chemical used in the TV's making was not completely cleaned out before the TV was assembled. If it is capacitor electrolyte, the TV has done more damage than what it costs to replace it to the countertop by etching it.
I'd go for the 6.8L V10 if possible. The MPG difference will be negligible between the two (in fact, on the old Pleasure-Way Excel which had either as an option, there was zero difference in MPG), and the extra two cylinders will help a lot when in the hills.
I do like GS, if only as a way to support this forum.
If I'm on the road more, PPA makes sense, maybe even KOA for long trips since there is a minimum standard of quality with that franchise. I've seen some pretty bad RV parks, and if I'm saying at one while exploring an area, at least KOA is a known quantity.
C2C and such are iffish... if the home park is really, really good and worth going back to, then maybe... but some of those memberships can cost so much that I would be better off buying parcels of unimproved land somewhere, having a trail to the center bulldozed, and use those as "home parks". The advantage of this is that the "park" is always open 24/7, no reservations needed.
If you use traps, put them where the mice/rats path, along the corner of the wall. That way, even if they don't stop for the bait, they will still set the trap off. I recommend "JAWZ" snap-traps.
I don't like seeing animals suffer either. However, it is self-defense, because they foul up foodstores and bring in diseases (hantavirus), so one has to do something. Spray foam and stainless steel wool (so it doesn't rust) do work, but once they decide to move in, you have to do something, otherwise they will destroy your rig with their filth and gnawing.
JMHO, the best way to get rid of mice is well stated in the first reply. Nothing like seeing a cat walk out from under your RV with a fat rat in its mouth.
I wonder what is exactly wrong with it. Carbs are a few C-notes but that is the first thing that fails. I can see a generator "totaled" if the copper windings are so corroded that they have snapped, but even then, it might just be a set of brushes. If it isn't giving electricity but the engine is running, it might need a "field flash", and there are plenty of instructions on YouTube to re-energize that.
Maybe this is just me, but I seem to notice that the generators with the higher hours on a used rig tend to mean that the genset will be in good working order, as opposed to a five year old rig with 10 hours logged.
What lab did you use for analysis? This is something I should look into not just once I change rigs, but for my current generator.
As for oil, wouldn't it be best to run full synthetic in modern small Onan generators? The latest models are splashed lubricated, so each small amount of oil does a lot more "work" than if the oil were pressurized and circulated around that way.
I'd include the genset, dead or no. There will be some shop that can give that thing a second life.
As for generator use, I've logged over 2500 hours (I should have put a meter on the genset, so am offering an estimate with time used) on mine, and it has done well with the usual maintenance (oil and filter changes.) Using Star-Tron and Chevron gas also has helped.
It's very dangerous if starter works in any transmission position but park or neutral. Once had our old Dodge van accidentally start fast idle in reverse, backed over my foot and went across the street, over a curb and hit a large fir tree in neighbors yard. Lucky no car was coming down the street.
When I was in high school, there was another student who was proud of the fact he could start his car in drive, and would use it to peel out on a daily basis.
I can see the need to stealth camp. For example, we used to have rest stops in the '70s. They are long gone, but the need is there. WMs are not a 100% solution, so it is understandable to park nearer a destination.
My only criticism is trying to stealth camp near any type of school. With all the fear about predators, it is the last place one would want to be near when overnighting. In my neck of the woods, any vehicle near a school that doesn't look like a soccer mom-mobile will get the police or sheriff called on it in seconds flat, especially with out of state plates, and definitely at night.
What I've found about the RV door handles is that one needs a special key that pushes down on the furthest wafer, and that will allow it to be pulled out and changed. However, finding a place to sell you that key (which won't open your rig -- it is only usable in the unlocked position) is almost impossible.
I wonder if you might be better off just buying some rural land in a destination area and using that as a "home base". Worst case, the land will sell to someone, unlike a timeshare where nobody buys those used.