mlts22 did the frozen food taste of smelly jeanns? or did the jeans taste that good?
Inquiering minds want to know!
We use a laundromat and before that I had a paint bucket with a lid that I placed the cloths and some detergent, tied it to the roof rack in the morning, threw the used water out at lunch time placed clean water and final rinse at dinner hung on rack ladder overnight, clean cloths by morning.
I never got close enough to the neighbor's freezer to even know. Just some things are to be left unasked.
On a different subject, I do like your five gallon bucket method. With a hitch mounted cargo rack (perhaps a CarPod that has high sides and a locking top, to ensure nothing will fly out), it would help ensure clothes get well agitated on legs of a trip.
My two cents:
For short trips, the clothes go into a set of mesh laundry bags. One bag for undies and towels, one bag for light clothes, one for medium, one for darks. They come home, and get washed.
For medium trips, same as above, and I hit a laundromat. I first wash stuff I don't care about, then the undies and towels (twice with bleach), which cleans out the washer. Then, follow up with the medium and then the dark clothes. This helps mitigate things in case the previous user of the washer used it for their pets.
For boondocking trips, out comes the five gallon bucket, the Bronner's soap, and the plunger. The advantage of this method is that I can wash the clothes, and then toss the water from the bucket outside, as opposed to having it occupy space in the gray water tank. To dry the clothes, in colder weather, I put them over a floor vent and aim a Vornado fan on them. In warmer weather, I hang them in my truck, crack the windows and let the greenhouse effect dry them.
Of course, one technique I've seen used, is in scenarios where one doesn't have enough water or whatnot for doing laundry. Stick the clothes to be worn again in the freezer overnight. When I was in college, I had a foreign exchange student who was proud of the fact that he never washed his jeans throughout the entire college term, and when they started to smell, he would just stick them in the freezer.
I understand your point about RV construction, but I personally wouldn't want to get HUD or the NTSHA involved, and have them make standards for RVs. With regulatory capture, it might be that after HUD gets done with things, a bare bones class "C" costs $250,000, and existing rigs have to have building permits given in order to have it re-roofed, add an inverter, or change the water heater. It also might be that RVs would be placed under building laws, where if one doesn't keep their rig inspected, even if it sits on their property, it could be condemned and hauled off at the whim of the government.
I personally would avoid getting the government involved no matter what. Instead, I'd vote with your dollars, and go with a higher end unit like a Winnebago, Coach House, Phoenix Cruiser, Nexus RV, or other brand. Bringing HUD in would mean a lot of unforeseen consequences.
If I had the choice of a full cabover or a "B+" cabover (Think Winnebago View versus the View Profile), I'd go for the full cabover in a heartbeat. Yes, it looks less streamlined, but you get an extra sleeping surface, and you have a place to place blankets and winter clothing (anything lightweight and bulky), so it is out of the way, but accessible.
As a native Texan, PPL in the summertime is usually packed, especially the New Braunfels location. Especially in June. I would not even try going there on a weekend or a Friday. Instead, I'd look at hitting there on a Tuesday or Wednesday, to minimize the amount of people waiting.
Rigs sell so quickly around Central Texas, it is almost crazy. There is a Camping world near that PPL, and they can't even keep their Freedom Elites in stock because of the demand.
This was a few months ago, but Ford did a change for their 2017 model year E-350 and E-450 cutaways. There is no 5.4 engine anymore. You get a V-10 across all the Econoline line now.
All and all, this is a good thing, JMHO. One less engine variation, and I've seen some those engines take extreme abuse and neglect and still keep on going.
I've run my Yamaha generator while on the road, making sure it was strapped down with nylon webbing and that the exhaust side was clear. A generator is designed for vibrations... being in/on a vehicle isn't anything that will make it break down.
You can temper the hot water (coming out of your hot water faucet and shower/tub faucet) by slightly adjusting the winterizing by pass valve on your hot water heater. This will allow some cold water to mix with the hot water coming from the heater. You just play with the bypass valve until you get the temp you want and then leave it there.
Cheaper solution than purchasing a new thermostat. (OK, I'm cheap...I think there's a thread on this forum that can't understand us cheapos. We look for simple, inexpensive solutions to problems)
This. The advantage of tempering is that the water heater can be hot, which kills more germs, and there is less hot water that is needed, so the water inside lasts longer. Plus, it makes winterization easy, as the same few valves used for tempering can be used as a WH bypass.
Thanks. Looks like a Morningstar inverter and a dedicated 300 watt outlet is the way to go. It would have been nice to just go with 12 volts, but as stated, getting power from the power brick does keep the warranty hounds happy.
For an appliance that requires four amps at 12 volts, what do I need to have it work with the 12VDC system.
The catch is that the appliance needs 12 volts. Not 12.whatever, 13.x, or 11.x depending on the SoC of the battery... but true 12.0 volt power. What is the best way to ensure an appliance gets this? Of course, I can wire in a 300 watt Morning Star SureSine inverter, then have the appliance's wall wart plug into that, which guarentees me the correct voltage... but I would be losing a good chunk of electricity via heat this way, so want to find a way to ensure 12 volts, no more, no less, is coming out.
For me, on the Amazon special desktop I bought which I ended up just paying the 200 bones to get Windows 7 on it. The good:
No blue screens so far (knock on wood.) Very reliable, and other than for patches, tends to be ready to go when needed.
BitLocker is decently secure.
Windows 10 Enterprise actually runs a secondary VM with your user credentials in it, to further ensure security.
Not really liking the UI.
Not happy with telemetry data always Hoovered up 24/7.
I wind up just popping an admin prompt via Windows-X and running the commands there.
The good ol' wbadmin utility I used for years for image backups doesn't work with W10. So, I wound up using VEEAM. As further protection against ransomware, my documents are stuffed in a Git repository, so if they get destroyed, all it takes it a git clone command to get them back.
Looks like Onan killed the EC-30W generator controller. Right now, the alternatives are either the Onan EC-30, or the Magnum Energy generator controller, plus the control panel.
I wonder why Onan killed it. It seemed to have made life easy for a number of reasons.
There are a ton of class "C"s. From the Coach House models made out of a one piece fiberglass shell to low end Thor models which are entry level.
If I had the cash and the storage for space for any type of motorhome, it would be a toss-up between a Lazy Daze or a Phoenix Cruiser.
My ideal furnace would be a Kimberly stove, properly installed. That way, I could just bring a bunch of 2x4s cut to size with me (nobody will fuss about bugs if you buy cured lumber), and a wood stove is quite nice, as it is a dry heat, which is great for cold, wet days.