I replaced my CH751 locks not due to security, but because the key is thin and can break in the lock. I went to an "automotive grade" cylinder set from Amazon (all the keys are the same, but the cylinder uses a shutter and is more dirt resistant. The key is thicker and is less likely to bend or break off as well.
If I wanted real security, I'd buy a set of Medeco or Abloy cylinders... but all that would happen is that the tweaker just would use a long screwdriver on the door and pry it open.
For the hitch receiver, I have tried a number of hitch pins, and the best I've found is a Bolt lock. It keys itself to the vehicle's key (means one less set of keys to keep track of), is extremely well made (automotive lock, same design as on doors), and is very easy to install and remove, almost easier than a hitch pin that uses a cotter pin.
The Bolt lock is one of the few things I really have found worth touting and worth the cash.
Downside is that it can't be rekeyed. It stays with the vehicle forever once the first key is inserted.
I use T/H mode when towing and in heavy traffic because the vehicle decelerates the second I let off the gas due to the torque converter being locked, which makes it easier to slow down without having to hit the brakes.
My F-150 has the ability to select 1-3, but 4-6 can't be manually selected (model year 2011 and newer remedy that.) So, T/H mode is a usable alternative.
My two centavos:
Need A/C? Look at a 3000 watt inverter, or two Honda eu2000i models paired up.
No A/C needed? For maximum versatility, I'd recommend a Honda eu2000i, because another can be added, or a high-draw appliance like a 1200 watt microwave or an electric space heater used.
No A/C needed, and one only needs basic charging? A Honda eu1000i or similar.
As for solar, it is more of a "why not use it" as opposed to "why use it" these days. It isn't too expensive, and the price/watt of panels is pretty good these days.
As a rule of thumb, I've found generators tend to be most efficient at half a load.
With my Yamaha iSE (similar to the SEB but sans battery): If I run just the 55 amp excuse for a converter, I can get 15-20 hours from one tank of gas on econ throttle. If I use my 15,000 watt A/C, I end up with about eight hours of generator life.
With more than a 1/2 load, econ mode is pointless, so I click it off.
So, those are two data points... 550 watts for 15-20 hours, 1500 watts for about 8 hours. Not perfectly linear, and not really that accurate, but just rough guesstimates of what I end up using. Were I to say what gives the best bang for the amount of fuel used, I'd go with the 1500 watts, which seems to be at the best performance point.
I know I may be late to this party, but with a center support, be it sawhorses, or the X-pieces, does one raise the jacks a couple inches off the ground to get the weight completely off them, or does one try to have 50/50 weight distribution on both the jacks and the center supports?
From what I've seen, hitch locks don't help much. Some thieves have methods to get around it (smaller hitch ball, just use the safety chains, etc.) That is why I use stout wheel locks.
On a different thread, I asked a similar question because I'm looking at buying an enclosed cargo trailer for additional storage when dry camping, and it would be stored in the city proper (thus issues about break-ins). The parking enforcement boots mentioned above are pretty sturdy, although anything will open to a cordless angle grinder.
My take is that I have insurance on the trailer. However, I'm going to make a thief fight for it so there is one less meth lab in central Texas. Brinks "J" locks were pointed out (as I mentioned earlier), with the included crappy disk lock tossed and a genuine Abus one put on. If I am concerned that isn't enough, I'll spend the 300 bones and go with the Sold Secure Gold "winter wheels". Any thief who manages to steal a trailer after getting those off is desperate enough that nothing will stop them anyway.
After emptying, I squirt a couple ounces of Dawn hand soap down the commode, flush a toilet bowl full of water, then call it done. The hand soap breaks up waste the same way it breaks up grease and food on dishes. It isn't perfect, but when I flush in the bathroom with the fan on, no stench comes out.
Water does evaporate in the black tank, so if one isn't using the rig in the summer, one might come back to a dry tank and "stone formations". The Dawn detergent helps with that, but it is wise to put enough water in to not risk chancing it.
I tried an electric broom and hand vac... was OK for getting the sand that piled up at the corners, but I ended up getting an upright vac with a telescoping handle. That made life easy because I was able to get the dirt out of the floor heater vents without issue. Of course, it means flipping the generator on when used, but c'est la vie.
Reese has a wide array of coupler locks. Some appear to me fairly easy to be picked. Others use a key similar to the Abloy/Abus type (which are impossible to pick without a specially designed tool), and still others use a round Ace lock. I think Reese even has a hitch pin where one supplies their own padlock.
If you can get the valve off (VERY difficult, as it is held in by Loctite Red), it doesn't hurt to fill it with water and empty it (which helps get the smell out). Until the valve is off and it has been rinsed and dried on the inside (steam from water can be very nasty as well), even an "empty" propane tank isn't.
After that, getting an experienced welder to slice it open with a cutting torch, this will get one a decent watering trough for animals, or if cut open around the top and holes punched in the bottom (without affecting the bottom ring), this will result in a smallish (but still usable) fireplace.
The best lock I've encountered so far is the Bolt hitch pin lock. It uses the key from your tow vehicle. I used to use a Reese hitch pin lock myself, but the Bolt is so much easier to work with (i.e. one fewer key to use) that I use that.
I know the OP isn't buying a lock, but I always buy one grade above the average. For example, if the average is a disk lock, I buy an Abus style with the dimple key or the Abloy style wafer tumbler, for bump resistance.
For a trailer, I've found that most trailer hitch locks are a deterrence at best. I use a long shackle padlock on my BAL X-Chocks, and due to a recommendation here, I have a Brinks "J" wheel lock set on my travel trailer with disc locks keyed alike. Yes, the trailer can be made to move, but it will take a cordless grinder and plenty of time. The only step up in security would be putting the TT on blocks or importing "locking winter wheels" from the UK, and storing the rims/tires elsewhere.
As for locks, one brand can have various qualities of locks. For example, Master has some locks which used to be shimmed by a piece of a Coke can. Other lock models by Master use ball bearings, and can't be shimmed.
My two cents:
Honda's part and dealer network is outstanding. I can get parts for one of their models almost anywhere.
Yamaha's is less, but there is at least one place I can mail order and get parts from.
Champion, I order parts from them. Their CS is excellent.
Other brands are random. You might find that no parts are available for that model, or the same model has a new generation with improvements that are not documented.
In general, 10 years from now, the Honda/Yamaha will still be fixable. The Champion likely will be fine as well. The no-name brands will long since have been sent to the scrapyard.
The gist of it: If money is an issue, buy a Champion 2000 watt model. They are a little bit more than the no-names, but will do the job well.
Comparing to a Honda, the Polaris 2000 watt model has 54 dB at 1/4 load, 62 dB at load. The eu2000i has 53 dB at 1/4 load, 59 at full tilt.
The Polaris generators are the same price as the Hondas, the same wattage rating (1600 watts), same run time. For the DC plug, the Polaris generators use a fuse rather than a circuit breaker.
Citations: here and here.
IMHO, they are louder, the parts availability is unknown (to me that is... a quick search engine run didn't turn up much), they have fuses than circuit breakers... and are the same price as Hondas, MSRP-wise.
My take: If a Geo priced the same as a Cadillac, why buy the Geo? Unless Polaris has big breaks on MSRP (on the order of 30-50%), I'd go for a Honda or a Champion.
I bet you could make those and sell them for a good price.
This is my novice mind wondering, but I wonder how difficult it would be to make one with bigger wheels, so it can be used to move the TC around, even if it is on gravel or rougher terrain that the smaller casters might not function well on. That would be quite useful for outside storage lots.
Customer demand drives what equipment is offered on RV's at what cost. If there was enough demand for so called "eco-mode" generators in RV's they would be offered, at least as an option. For me personally, I find it much more annoying to listen to a generator throttling up from idle every time the load changes than listening to the low rumble of my 7KW Onan's near constant 1800 RPM.
There is also the issue of being able to put the wattage out. If a generator is on Eco-Throttle and a compressor starts up, it won't be able to "spin up" enough to handle the load, thus causing low voltages and shortening the life of the compressor.
What would be interesting to see is a generator made similar to a Yamaha 3000iSEB, except with more "boost" potential. It would be a variable speed model, but with the ability to pull off a set of AGM batteries for a few seconds. That way, a genset running at 800 or so RPM would be able to "catch" the load of a microwave or A/C at full head pressure, while it spins up to a RPM that can handle the electrical load.
I do agree with you about a constant RPM. One can get used to the 1800-3600 RPM of a genset, but the engine spinning up and down can get distracting.
JMHO, the best engineering compromise would be going back to four pole generators. That way, it can run at a relatively low speed of 1800 RPM.