LeBout - thanks for your precise answers to all my questions. Very refreshing.
My truck has a 7000# rating so I have less margin on an RV like yours, but on the other hand, as a daily driver it gets very decent mileage.
I notice you have air suspension. Must work well since the truck is nicely level when hitched up.
Hey everyone! We made it home yesterday from our trip covering 18 days and 3,700 miles. I've created an online album of pictures that you can access here. (This is a Facebook album that does NOT require you to have a Facebook account to view.)
Beautiful pictures of what clearly was a great trip. Thank for sharing!
I have to ask about the truck towing that trailer.
What is the rear end gear ratio on the truck and what are its towing capabilities? I assume you have a 4-speed automatic.
How did the tow go especially over all those mountains, with the RV loaded including water?
Do you know what the weighed weights of the RV was?
I ask these questions because I am thinking of a new RV and rather than go with another hybrid I might consider going with a conventional TT, and your truck's capabilities appear to be similar to mine on paper.
Many times I see RVs that are not level. That can affect the readings drastically, especially if the slope of the RV is towards the sensors - in my RV that should be forward end down. This problem is exacerbated by the typical RV grey water tank which is flat with large surface area.
Also assuming the RV is level, if the tank has 3 sensors (as mine does) then when the bottom sensor is in contact with the water the tank is 1/4 full, middle sensor means 1/2 full, third sensor means 3/4 full. There is no other sensor so it is hard to tell when it is full despite what the monitor says. For instance my monitor has LED for E,1/3, 2/3 and F. The LED for 1/3 is actually reading 1/4, 2/3 is actually 1/2, F is actually 3/4, so this allows for a little wiggle room before you dump grey.
Lastly, if you have stuff on the typical button sensor, it could cause false readings. Horst Miracle Probes are an improvement.
I probably shouldn't ask this question here, as im sure once I get experienced with all this I will get my own routine, but im just wondering how everyone loads there campers for the weekend? I have a small featherlite which only holds around 400 pounds ccc.. plus my 1500 ram is gonna be pushing the payload limit of 1500 pounds when I figure in people and 500 pound hitch weight so I don't want to load up too much in the bed of truck.
im just wondering where best spot is to put things like pillows or sleeping bags? also I have a bunch of those fold up type lawn chairs, if im pushing 500 pound tounge weight am I better off loading lawn chairs in camper towards rear, or is it ok to still load in the storage area in the front by the hitch? I also have a small outside grill that I will probably put in the front storage.... and I have my coolers, but coolers im thinking is easier to load in the rear of my truck.. I guess I can put everything in truck but like I said, with 5 passangers I don't want to overdue my payload..... how does everyone else load up? just looking for tips/ideas from experience...I will buy wood and drinks by the campground after I unload
This is the right place to ask but maybe you will find that the answers are not what you are looking to get.
Your specific question - with a low RV cargo carrying capacity, how best should you load the RV and truck so that nothing is overloaded - is likely not the same scenario that most here face, as evidenced by the answers so far. I have a very similar situation to yours - single axle RV with a 500# CCC and a half ton truck.
There is no magic bullet - you have to get the RV and truck loaded and weighed, and then you can make adjustments afterwards.
In the meanwhile you should be thinking along the lines of --
RV: food in the cupboards and fridge, bedding, pack light on everything else (water fittings, sewer fittings, extension cords, cutlery, appliances, etc.) - that is all assuming no mods to the RV since they have to be counted towards the payload.
Truck: everything else - barbecue, chairs, clothes, propane tank, grey water tank, etc.
Pack light overall - your rig is not meant to carry everything you own.
Once that is done get over to the scales and weigh the rig so that you can get the truck weights at both axles and also the RV weights at the axle and tongue. You can then work out the RV's longitudinal centre of gravity and from that point onwards, if you keep good records, you never have to weigh again and can shift cargo around to suit limitations.
It is very hard to keep to the 500# (400# in your case) CCC of the RV. That is why single axle RVs are not a very good idea. In my case my RV is weighed to be 300# over the 3500# GVWR, although my axle 200# - 300# under the axle rating. Most of the excess load is on the tongue which is about 600#, up from 350# spec unladen load.
In this condition the RV tracks true and there have been no problems with the rig in all the time and thousands of miles I have pulled it.
So good luck in finding your own sweet spot for loading this restrictive combination. Also, hopefully you will get precise answers to your question.
Just checking back in again. Thanks for your comments. The reason I had made this inquiry is because there are times when you do not have access to cell coverage. No WiFi, No Net flix, no cable hook ups. .... Correct me if I am wrong but shouldn't my DirectTV converter box (from home)work anywhere I go if hooked to a satelite dish. :)
I hear you on this. I use the Winegard Carryout MP-1 Portable SD dish with a DirecTV SD receiver from one of the bedrooms in my house. Works perfectly, and I am watching TV right now in a park that has very poor OTA reception.
I know your original question is about the possibility of renting an antenna to try out before you buy and I have never heard of such a rental. You can however rest assured that provided you can see clear sky where the DirecTV satellite is you will enjoy this unit. At $150 it is reasonable. I have been using mine for 2 years now without issue, except in Canada where the sat signal is blocked.
Dre, I hear you about camping but lets face it ... what we do is not camping. Dragging a trailer outfitted with the creature comforts that we have, hauling all our junk to a campground or wherever just so we can approximate living at home while being in the woods ...? That's not camping. To me camping is "showing up wherever with all your gear on your back or even in your vehicle, setting up a tent and living it rough".
So since we are not camping (but are RVing) and since we have our amenities, why not use them? Paid good money for it all not to be used. :)
I have tried to search this, couldn't really find anything. just wondering if its safe to wash dishes and pans on my camper sink and rinse down drain? for example, say I have BBQ sauce on my grill, can I clean that and rinse it down the drain? same with say bacon grease from the pan? is food residue safe in the gray tank, or should that be left to just soap and water? I go first time camping in two weeks and just want to know whats safe or not before I have a big OOPS..lol.. I did search around this board and couldn't find this info..thank you...
No grease as it will gum up sensors over time. Particles are okay but best to use a sink strainer and dump the particles in the garbage. Pour off grease and then wipe the pan with paper towels before washing in warm soapy water.
The only things cooked outside are on the BBQ and pie irons over the fire. The stove top and oven are used most of the time. Never had any issues with lingering scents in my RV any more than in my stick house.
Same here. That said I won't cook certain foods (e.g. curry) inside the RV. (BTW - we don't eat "camping food" when camping - we eat regular food)
We still love to go camping even though we're surrounded by woods. The HTT is actually parked in the front yard.....Can't get to the backyard with it.
Should I include a picture of the backyard?........Why not!!
Beautiful. Reminds me of when I used to live 'next door' in New Brunswick, Canada.
A week ago, there were no leaves on trees in Maine. I took a few pictures this morning, and what a difference.
It's really time to think of our first camping trip of the season !
Dre, nice pictures. Where is that ... your backyard? If so it is pretty - no need to go anywhere for camping!
Without any details behind your query, here are a few suggestions.
.... I already unloaded the DO.. Our 23SS is at 5000# on the nose ready to pull out, so I know we won't get to the GVWR, but need to know how to figure the tongue weight.
Based on the title of the thread and the above, you might find this post useful.
If you knew what your tongue weight was presently, you could get an idea of how the truck would behave with the new trailer. Note how the spec tongue weight means little. The spec tongue weight of my RV is 350# whereas the actual tongue weight is about 600#.
Normal garden hoses are not food rated. I just don't like the rubbery taste. Although, who as a kid hasn't drank from the garden hose.
I was wondering if anyone was going to make that point and am glad you did. I too drank from a garden hose (that was not new either) and also directly from the spigot. Water tasted okay and I am not dead yet. Even as a middle aged adult I still have a quick drink from the hose if I am outside working on a hot day.
To the OP -- if the hose is new and is not mixed up with a hose you use for other stuff then it is fine.
I say this because I have a standard garden hose I use for the long run to my sewer cleanout whenever my RV is home. That I would not drink from. ;)
If tanks on these trailers are mislabeled, I'd like to know who these manufacturers are since these would be brands I would want to avoid. They clearly have QC even lower than what is normal for this industry, and that is pretty low to start with. If they can screw up the labeling of tanks, one has to wonder what else do they screw up.
Someone made the excellent point about using clear fittings at the outlet pipe - I have 3 fittings I use, all clear. I am one that has to see what is coming out for obvious reasons.
2011 jayco featherlite. I believe its a two way fridge and not three way. its a norcold model N512(I believe that's 2way)I understand one function is off of propane, but if its a two way would it run off of battery or the shore power?
also, how cold do these get? cold enough to keep cans of soda or beer cold? or do I need an ice cooler for that?
I understand that it takes a good 8-10 hours too cool off.. so before I leave for a camping trip, do I plug in to shore power the day before and turn on? it has 10 cold cycles, I will have to figure out which one to use... and when im driving do is it ok to drive with it running on propane while im driving?
last but not least, is it a PITA to travel with stuff in the frige? for example, meat, milk, hot dogs, soda??? or do they bounce and go all over the place? I have never done this before and rather find out how others do it before I have a camper full of sprayed beer and soda..LOL.. thanks
I believe I have the same fridge. Mine is 2-way - propane and AC. Like all RV fridges of this class, it works better off propane but off AC power mine works pretty well.
The fridge section gets cold enough to keep everything cool / cold depending on your setting. Too cool and my tomatoes freeze. I have even seen ice forming on my bottled water surface. It will have no trouble keeping your beer cold, and I have no cooler for this purpose.
It does take a while to get cool from ambient, and if you are in Texas summer weather it will take even longer. The night before I leave I put it on propane at max cold setting. I then load cold stuff ffrom my house fridge on the morning of departure. At that time the fridge is cool-ish but not where it should be yet. Probably a full 24 hours - 48 hours depending on ambient. But the 14 hours pre-cool works for me regardless of ambient temperature. Nothing has spoiled and everything is as cool as it needs to be by the time I set up at my destination. Ice takes about 3 hours to make on AC.
I drive with it on propane, but when I stop for gas I turn it off just in case. I also drove with it off and not much coolness is lost.
Pack your fridge with travel in mind and use the spring bars as well and you won't have any issues. We travel with the same food we eat at home (including leftovers!) so our fridge is full of meat, veggies, yogurt, cheese, milk, OJ, etc. Beer is put in after we arrive. Matter of fact, I am off to put beer in the fridge right now. :)
My trusted tire guy - and friend - ordered the tires.
Should have known better than to try to contribute anything to this forum... You guys already know everything.
Manley - you have learnt something from this thread.
"Maxxis" tires are allegedly the Holy Grail of tires. So there is no need to mention anything about tires here. Just assume that within one or two posts the Maxxis worship will start, and somehow the discussion will slide downhill from there. I have this running bet with myself to see how quickly any tire thread will morph into Maxxis worship, otherwise I simply ignore these threads. ;)
As for the research on the Internet -- 2012coleman correctly pointed out that all roads more or less point back to these fora. Funny that.
Different years may be different. On my 2010 Jayco 17Z I don't have snaps or anything to hold the mattress down to the bunk door, but I still leave the mattress on when closing it.
Hmmmmm.... my 2010 17Z has the straps on both bunk ends.
My wife usually folds the mattress with the pole between the halves. At the same time I am outside tucking in the canvas and closing the door. Much easier with two people. If I were lone I'd have to close he door first, then come back inside to fold the mattress and strap them to the inside of the bunk end door.