carjocky
Northwest Ohio
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Lady Fitzgerald wrote:If you decide to put on the Eternabond (personally, I would but it's your call), put it on before the 303.
That is what I was thinking. The 303 is some slick stuff when it is applied. But I think that I will wait until the warranty period is over. I do plan on storing indoors for the winter so I hope that when I take it out to clean it for the year I will inspect, Eternabond then 303.
Jon
Ohio
2012 Keystone Bullet Premier 29RTPR
2009 Dodge Ram Crew Cab 1500 5.7 Hemi
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Almot
Vancouver BC
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303 was probably waste of money. The rubber is painted, this is a pretty good UV barrier already, and 303 will wash off after the first rainy season anyway. Like people noted, this stuff does interfere with adhesives like Eterna or liquid rubber, and needs to be removed from those areas.
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JIMNLIN
out here
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Joined: 09/14/2003
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Eternabond dosn't mean you will never have a leak up there. Bad assumption. Better check with your trailers dealer and manufacturer about any warranty issues.
Another new trailer owner had the same question and as always he got the usual go ahead its the best stuff since ......
well anyway this was the outcome.
Quote:trailernovice
Mission TX
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Posted: 11/29/11 11:13am Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
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A while back, I opened a thread asking whether eterna-bonding the roof seams on an almost-new TT as a preventative measure was a good idea ...the virtually unanimous opinion was 'yes'....
Well, took the TT to the selling dealer today for some minor work...rep. sees the tape job, asks 'why on earth did you DO that'?, and tells me that: a.) it's not necessary b.) it'll trap water if any water ever gets beneath the tape, and c.) any claim under the roof warranty may get kicked on grounds that the roof has been 'modified'....
thought i did the right thing by sealing the seams, but now not so sure....
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 gvwr two slides
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Almot
Vancouver BC
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Quote:trailernovice
... tells me that: a.) it's not necessary b.) it'll trap water if any water ever gets beneath the tape, and c.) any claim under the roof warranty may get kicked on grounds that the roof has been 'modified'....
thought i did the right thing by sealing the seams, but now not so sure....
From many reports, roof warranty doesn't seem to work well even if it wasn't modified. OTH, I only saw one report of damage when a TT was Eterna-d after one year and had water damage after 6 years. That brand went out of business already. Don't remember the details, i.e. whether the damage was caused or facilitated by Eterna tape itself.
Eterna tape should be painted over with a 1-part "liquid rubber" or 2-part "liquid roof", for better results.
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mlts22
Austin, Texas
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In watching this forum, I've read people having lots of success with Eternabond tape, and not as much with the liquid rubber/roof products.
What I do see is that Eternabond does take some care in getting applied on right:
1: The surface needs properly cleaned. Not just dirt free, but oil free, usually requiring acetone or another cleaner.
2: Priming is a must in colder temperatures. EternaPrime essentially sticks a layer of the microsealant stuff down for the tape to adhere better.
3: The hardest part is laying the tape down. There are no second chances, and it requires work with putting it down, then squishing it with a roller or VERY hard pressure from a hand. This is what makes or breaks EB's usefulness.
4: After that, mainly for looks, people use a caulk around the edges of the tape. It purpose is to keep dirt from adhering, as opposed to protecting against water intrusion.
As for my rig, as soon as my warranty expires, I'm going to be either heading up there with the needed tools, or paying someone to EB all the seams.
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Johnworth914
USA!
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No need to. Why put a patch over a perfectly good seam? Check your caulk every few months and act immediately to reseal of there is a problem and you will be fine.
Alaska is next! Still trying to fit the pontoons to the RV so We can get to Hawaii!
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Lady Fitzgerald
Tempe, AZ, USA, Earth
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Johnworth914 wrote:No need to. Why put a patch over a perfectly good seam? Check your caulk every few months and act immediately to reseal of there is a problem and you will be fine.
To avoid having to check your caulk every few months and act immediately to reseal.
Jeannie
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Johnworth914
USA!
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Lady Fitzgerald wrote:Johnworth914 wrote:No need to. Why put a patch over a perfectly good seam? Check your caulk every few months and act immediately to reseal of there is a problem and you will be fine.
To avoid having to check your caulk every few months and act immediately to reseal.
I'd rather check the roof every few months and jump on a problem than put a bandaid on and not check.
Even if someone were to use the tape, they still better be checking the roof every few months. Seams are not the only place where leaks develop...
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JIMNLIN
out here
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Remember the lap sealent up there is the second line of defense against a possible leak. The butyl tape under the fixture/jack is the first line of defense.
I check my '97 28' 5er with a rubber roof twice a year. Its never leaked. The first hairline crack in a small area showed up in '05. I added a small thin 1/8" layer of Dicor in the crack. The next hairline crack showed up in '09 part way across the front cap/roof joint and one side of the skylite. Again a small amount of self leveling Dicor did the trick.
Always apply a sealent per manufactures instructions.
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Jerrybo66
AZ
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If I were buying a used trailer I would definitely check the roof. If I saw patches, no matter what the seller told me, no matter what the condition of the rest of the trailer, I would be "outta there." Just my thought.....
Support the Country you live in or live in the Country you support
2003 Sierra SP 26'Toy Hauler
1997 F-350, PSD, 4X4, red Crew Cab, long bed.
2007 Arctic Cat Prowler, Arctic Cat 500
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