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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Location for Magnum Inverter

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CA Traveler

The Western States

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Posted: 07/05/12 09:03am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wire it for the max amps and then you know there will never be a issue. Even more important to be close since this unit does not have a voltage sense capability. Yes it's heavy and a side wall or ceiling mount has to be adequate. Or floor mount with a heavy screen partition to isolate it from storage items in case they shift.

For your intended usage the 4 6's and the Magnum will serve you well. You'll like the built in ATS etc. Be advised that the Magnum requires 120V pure sine wave to charge at the 100A rate. You may/may not have that on either shore power on gen. My max charge rate is generally about 80A. The standard remote DC amp display is based on the AC input (this is not a typo) and mine is up to 20A off. These are a Magnum cost tradeoff.


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RoyB

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Posted: 07/05/12 09:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not hang it up side down - mount a 3/4-inch solid board to the vertical wall and bolt the magnum vertical on this board. If the Magnum has any visible heat sinks on its sides then make sure you have this side on top so that any heat that is generated in the Magnum cabinet heat sinks need to go out the top.. If it has heat sinks on both side then make sure the still goes up and not back inside the cabinet again.. Heat always rises - what you don't want is the generated heat to flow back through the cabinet electronics again if you have mounted with the heat sinks on the bottom...

The more I think about 300AMPs I definitely think #4AWG is out of the question and I almost think even #2AWG may not be big enough... 5-feet is usually what others try to get on distance but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do...

When I did my high current installs I purchased 25-foot spools of good quality ANCOR Marine Brand battery cable. $50 for 25-feet. Then I also got the ANCOR brand ring terminals and crimped on my cables where they was needed. I purchased one of those 8-ton hydraulic hand crimpers from Northern Tool or eaby..


I also used the Blue Sea Products for HD terminal blocks, fuse holder, and four position battery switches etc...


The idea here is everything has the correct size battery stubs and all your installed battery cables will have matching crimped on ring terminals. Makes for a good solid connections everywhere.

Also since you are going to be sort of out in the open in the pass-thru storage area you want to cover these connections so something metal doesn't slide into them. The BLUE SEA products most have plastic covers on them to make for a safe install...


My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me
Roy and Carolyn
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RoyB

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Posted: 07/05/12 09:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have never been around your magnum charger design but if it is NOT smart-mode technology I personally would not use it... You have to start out charging these batteries with 14.4VDC for a few hours then drop down to 13.6VDC for a hour or so and then also have some automated charges along the way for desulf and equalizing maintenace modes. Hopefully your magnum charger does all of these charge smart-modes. Otherwise I would be looking at a PD unit or a IOTA unit to be my CONVERTER/CHARGER unit. Just me talking here haha... I like my smart-mode converter/charger units... They do all the work for you and real quick too... They will re-charge your four each 6V batteries in as short as 2-3hours of generator run time when camping off the power grid.


***NOTE***: I just glanced thru the Magnum MS2012 specs and it does all of the smart-mode charging modes... I also noticed they recommend 4/0 battery cable size. Thats two or three sizes larger than the #2AWG cables.... 4/0 is some serious size battery cables ...

* This post was edited 07/05/12 09:41am by RoyB *

Corkey05

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Posted: 07/05/12 09:42am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RoyB wrote:

I have never been around your magnum charger design but if it is NOT smart-mode technology I personally would not use it... You have to start out charging these batteries with 14.4VDC for a few hours then drop down to 13.6VDC for a hour or so and then also have some automated charges along the way for desulf and equalizing maintenace modes. Hopefully your magnum charger does all of these charge smart-modes. Otherwise I would be looking at a PD unit or a IOTA unit to be my CONVERTER/CHARGER unit. Just me talking here haha... I like my smart-mode converter/charger units... They do all the work for you and real quick too... They will re-charge your four each 6V batteries in as short as 2-3hours of generator run time when camping off the power grid.
Roy, you might want to look at the Magnum manual, ... it is a very sophisticated smart charger.


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RoyB

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Posted: 07/05/12 09:50am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Corkey65 - I just did and it is hehe...

Ill get out of everyones hair here - you all "way out" of my league anyway... Me still trying to find a repacement battery bank on my OFF-ROAD POPUP for my four ea GP24 Interstate 85AH batteries on SS retirement pay scale... When I get some extra dollars and splurge I usually get two bags of coffee beans haha...

mena661

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Posted: 07/05/12 09:53am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Corkey05 wrote:

Roy, you might want to look at the Magnum manual, ... it is a very sophisticated smart charger.
X2, Magnum is considered one of the best on the market. An order of magnitude better than any crappy converter for sure.


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joraz

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Posted: 07/05/12 10:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mangler, I have a 2812 but it he charger is identical to yours. As some one else indicated, Magnum calls for 0000 cabling between the charger and the batteries. Also says it should not exceed 10 feet. In addition, they call for a 250 amp fuse. Good luck with your installation. I'm sure it will go well.
jor


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Posted: 07/05/12 10:24am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mena661 wrote:

Corkey05 wrote:

Roy, you might want to look at the Magnum manual, ... it is a very sophisticated smart charger.
X2, Magnum is considered one of the best on the market. An order of magnitude better than any crappy converter for sure.
Actually 5 stages: bulk, absorb, float, off all automatic. Equalize is manual perhaps to ensure that the user is aware of the higher voltage. And there are various settings available.

SCVJeff

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Posted: 07/05/12 10:42am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As mentioned, the manual spec's 4/0 cable for the length of your install. You bought the best inverter/ charger on the market, don't cheap yourself out because you don't think you will ever draw that kind of current, remember this is also a 100A charger, and those are significant losses with #2 cable. You can buy everything you need if you look around as cable $$ vary widely, even with the same brand. Arizona Wind and Sun sells lugs at a good price, and I bought a 12 Ton crimper from eBay when I did mine.

Once again I'm going to beat the ventilation drum! I have a 2012, and it REQUIRES LOTS OF FREE AIR, or it will start shutting itself down. At that point your only option will be to permanently back it off to a lower charge rate, then what's the point? Kinda like under-rating your DC cable..

As for mounting, read the book. It makes no difference what position the unit is mounted, sans one: on a wall, breakers pointing up. In my case that was the only option, so I called the factory and asked why? They said it really didn't matter, but in this position if it ever failed internally and caught fire that flaming debris could fall out. Makes no difference in my case because the compartment is all metal and nothing combustable below.


Jeff - WA6EQU
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Posted: 07/05/12 10:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RoyB wrote:

I would not hang it up side down - mount a 3/4-inch solid board to the vertical wall and bolt the magnum vertical on this board. If the Magnum has any visible heat sinks on its sides then make sure you have this side on top so that any heat that is generated in the Magnum cabinet heat sinks need to go out the top.. If it has heat sinks on both side then make sure the still goes up and not back inside the cabinet again.. Heat always rises - what you don't want is the generated heat to flow back through the cabinet electronics again if you have mounted with the heat sinks on the bottom...
The Magnum manual clearly indicated that it can be mounted on the ceiling. Details of the installation including adequate support, ventilation, etc are in the manual.

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