I can get the pilot light to stay lit, however it will not cool at all. it works when plugged in to electricity. am i doing something wrong? do i need to get something cleaned or replaced. it works great when plugged into power, i just can't figure out what the problem is. any help would be great.
Hmm,
Just some easy stuff first, What is the make and model of the fridge?
Is your propane supply low? or valve on the tank not turned up all the way?
Can you hear LP burner in the fridge kick on? Older appliances that have a pilot light they(pilot) must heat a thermal safety switch that will then allow gas going to the burner. This is to ensure that the pilot light is burning when the gas is turned on or flowing to the burner for explosive reasons.
It is good that the AC mode works because that means the main system is working(creating heat via AC power) you just have to get the LP burner to run.
Sometimes the air to fuel mixing area just before the burner can get dirty or maybe even some cobwebs or spider webs and the like. You can get a brush at rv supply places to clean this out.
1.) Check your propane supply? Pilot light can still work if low but a higher demand such as a stove and fride burner cannot.
2.) Clean fuel air carb area. You can search youtube for a video of this procedure.
3.) Check the thermal saftey lp switch for proper operation check youtube again ideas how to do this safely.
Please remember if you smell gas than means it is not getting combusted and the risk of explosion is large. Be safe don't smoke when doing this and let you nose be your guide with safety.
sorry, I don't have the model # off hand, just that it is a dometic. it's a new problem to me, just purchased coach last year and had not used fridge on LP, but electric works. i have not ever cleaned the burner or chimney, the pilot light lit so i assumed it was all good. when i went to troubleshoot yesterday, I turned the fridge to "gas" and the orange light did not blink, maybe an electrical issue as well. i have also, heard of disconnecting the gas line and blowing them out as spiders can clog up the line.
Hello,
How is the diagnostic going? I have searched on youtube and found this video for reference. Watch this video and take special note about a gas shut off valve in that compartment and make sure it is on all the way. This will has show you where the burner is and how to clean out that area.
Kpmacaz, thanks for the video it was really well done. the RV was put in storage the other day and i was unable to get my hands on the fridge unit. i think that could very well be the problem, to much rust and dirt is preventing the flame from burning larger/hotter to make the fridge cool. when i get the RV back i will update you. thanks again guys
Back in 2006 when I was returning from the Ogalalla truck camper show, somehow our fridge decided to not cool while running on LP as well.
Turned out to be a cracked ruby orifice. There is a man made precision laser spiral cut ruby in a brass fitting. This was detected by a Dometic tech in Portland.
Take a look at the Dometic Fridge Manual for diagnostics and trouble shooting. Your model may or may not be in the manual, but there might be enough info to steer you straight.
Dometic Service Manual wrote: 7.2 Orifice
The Dometic orifice is a brass alloy with a man-made ruby pressed in the center that has been laser-beam drilled in a spiral pattern. The orifice is cleaned by using an alcohol based solvent. Soak the orifice for approximately 1 hour and allow to air dry. Don’t insert anything in the center of the orfice it will harm the man-made ruby. Don’t use an air nozzle to blow thru the orifice as the ruby could be moved. Never over or under size the orifice on a Dometic refrigerator. The cooling unit is designed to work with a predetermined amount of heat and modifying the orifice size will decrease cooling. If there is a lack of cooling on gas operation, verify the orifice is the proper size per the chart.
* This post was
edited 08/14/12 12:31pm by INSAYN *
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