RE: Camping in sub-freezing weather
Thanks all for the suggestions. I have 2 of the ceramic heaters and will run at least one during the day to stave off any cold spells we might have. It is very unusual for day time temps to remain below freezing.
On adding the Reflectix, we will not likely open the bunks (unless there is a really warm period). So cocooning will likely produce extra condensation.
I had not thought of disconnecting the fresh hose during the night (especially if hard freeze expected). I think keeping the cabinets open will help with the interior pipes. We have an electric HW heater so it can go on and stay on, once we arrive.
There is both a KOA and a Flying J near where we will be camping. I think both offer year round dump facilities, but will confirm.
I looked at some of the tank heater add-ons. Just way too much to spend for the once every 2-3 years we might use it. What about a temporary add of some water pipe heaters? Any place in particular I would want to add one?
Thanks again.
Camping in sub-freezing weather
There is a fair chance we will need to take our camper to MIL's house for some extra beds at Christmas. In southern KY, the temps could range from 20's to 60s' for highs, so I have to plan for most anything. We plan to not open the bunks and just use the dinette and side bunk. With the furnace and ceramic heaters, I don't think keeping warm will be an issue.
I would like to be able to use the shower, toliet, and kitchen sink (for morning coffee). What problems should I anticpate? How cold would it need to before I start having problems? What precautions can I take to avoid them?
I've got some time to take some action. Thought I'd ask you guys that camp out a LOT further north than I venture.
Thanks.
Fairview Devil Step campground - Tim's Ford Lake
Has anyone stayed at this campground? It is located just outside of Winchester, TN.
Looks like it is right on the banks of the lake.
The daughter has a soccer tourney there next weekend, and would like to have a relaxing weekend vs. the long 2.5 hour drives (each way).
Thanks....
RE: Carpeting idea
Thanks.... a lot of good input. I am going to rethink this idea. I agree that the flooring is a lot easier to clean. I had not considered the 'dog factor'. I was just thinking about the warmer floor / feet as fall is coming on.
Carpeting idea
We spent the weekend at the lake with a couple. While boating with them, I noticed the carpeting in the boat. It was the standard short nap, durable, all weather carpeting in most boats. What caught my eye was, it was installed with a series of snaps spaced around the perimeter. He said he could just unsnap the carpet and take it out and clean it.
So...... why couldn't I do the same? Find a nice carpet, trim it to the interior floor size, hem the edges, install the snaps around the edge and then screw the "receivers" into the floor. It sounds like an excellent way to be able to enjoy the carpet with an installation that allows a through cleaning, by removing it.
Your thoughts?
RE: Removal of interior wall board for DTV upgrade
SJR - exact match. Looked at your profile and we have the same trailer.
Really like your work. Sent you a PM asking for bit more info. Would be obliged for a short response.
Thanks.....
Removal of interior wall board for DTV upgrade
I have my new DTV and mounting bracket ordered and on the way. I have selected the location for the install. I want to install it in the hollow plenum above the fridge. I know I need to install a backer board to support the bracket. I have looked for previous posts that showed that being done (but can't locate it now). Here is the area that I will install.
http://i28.tinypic.com/29eoilf.jpg
How do I remove the interior wall board without destroying it?
Also, when I get in there, is there going to be some "obvious" places for me to secure the backer board?
An alternative location (though much less desirable from a viewing standpoint) is the oak board that forms the end of overhead storage cabinet (visible just beyond the antenna crank). That only requires the bracket to be mounted right on it.
Thanks.
AC condensation pooling on roof
Last summer I had a strange leak during a July trip. Hot, humid - AC ran wide open whole trip. Sunday morning we woke up to water dripping from the power jack on the front bunk.
Long story short, I did find some caulking cracks and have applied EternaBond to both front and rear seams. I have not found any additional water (although the inside ceiling shows some bubbling of the wood layer between the rubber membrane and the "wallpaper", on the ceiling. It appears to be dry and has not gotten any larger.)
When we camp here in the south, it is always hot and humid, causing a "lot" of AC condensation. Even when I park the camper with the 'front to rear' level, a whole bubble off level, it pools up quite a bit before it begins to run off. I haven't put a level on it, but I don't see a sag or 'low place' in the roof. Should I be concerned about the water building up? I'm hesitant to tilt the trailer even more.
RE: Mice and Canvas Issue
Cajuns - the bigger issue is finding where they came in and get them stopped. Once in, they will be back.
I literally cried when I saw a 2nd round of holes after the 1st winter, in a PU years ago. That damage was minimal, so I patched, used it that summer and put it away again. The next spring was significantly worse with holes in sides, screens and the roof.
Find'em, stop'em, kill'em, if possible. "I hate meeces to peeces"
RE: Permanent Rope Lights on HTT
I too am sensitive to "light pollution". However.... coming back to the campsite after a long day on the river or golf course and it is dark, these sure would come in handy for cooking under the awning (sure would attact way fewer bugs than the porch light and offer full lighting under the awning). DW & DD always go to the shower house late and this option, would light up their return and allow them to hang out towels with some light. We are almost always in the camper with all exterior lights out before 9pm, playing games, reading, etc. NONE left on at night.
That being said... I actually attempted this. Bought the clear tracks at HD and attached them to the camper. Admired them on the trailer before I went to bed. Admired them on the driveway the next morning. The adhesive pulled loose from the back of the track and remained stuck to the trailer. I would really like to try this again, but am concerned about what adhesive to use. I've thought about clear silicon caulk, but not sure it has the holding power for the weight and the force of 65+ MPH down the road.
Any suggestions?
RE: Tornado install - oh cr*p ! --> RESOLVED
Well - several good suggestions. I went by Harbor Freight and they had some fairly large part retrieval magnets (on sale). I then went under the tank, located the bit, and determined that I could move it around inside the tank with the magnet. Then with the help of a "spotter", they watched through the toilet opening until I got it in position. Then with a long pair of old BBQ tongs, reached down and retrieved the bit (the magnet was too large to go down the chute).
Now off to the campground for a long weekend and then a test drive of the Tornado.
Thanks again to all that offered advice. Love this forum...!!
RE: Tornado install - oh cr*p ! --> RESOLVED
Well - I used the small magnet I have to move the bit near the edge of the tank (by the outlet) and then tried filling the john with water, opening it and pouring a large bucket full along with it. No luck, just lots of yuck (I now see the benefit of the Tornado and using it each trip).
I will be looking for a larger magnet to maneuver the bit either out the drain pipe, or to the center where the toilet empties and try and fish it out from there.
Stay tuned........
Tornado install - oh cr*p ! --> RESOLVED
First - excuse the obvious pun.....
Well after reading all the posts here and the instructions on the package - multiple times, I embarked on a project that made me a bit nervous. Took all the "known" appropriate precautions and started the project.
All went well, making some minor adjustments to installation location and pilot holes positions. When I drilled the 1 3/4" hole, as the hole saw popped through the tank, it snagged on the edge of the hole and the saw/bit popped off of my drill and now rests on the bottom of the tank.
So.... how do I get that thing out? Fishing it out of the hole is not an option. Can the tornado flush it down to the outlet valve? I'm thinking about filling the tank about 1/3 full driving it around and going to a dump station and seeing if it won't drain out. I am also thinking it might take me opening the toilet and shooting a high volume of water through there and seeing if it won't work down toward the valve.
I'm just hoping it doesn't get hung up in the valve mechanism somewhere.
