This is the carrying capacity, right? In looking at brochures that give the GVWR and the GCWR, so you just subtract the latter from the former to get the CCC?
For example: 2007 Endeavor Class A:
GVWR: 33,000 lbs.
GCWR: 43,000 lbs.
Total CCC = 10,000 lbs? And, is that with, like, all water/propane/gas tank full? When looking to "make sure that there's enough CCC" for full timing, what's the basic formula?
GCVWR (Gross combined vehicle weight rating)is the maximum allowable weight of a trailer (or toad) plus the weight of the motorhome and has nothing to do with CCC. To get your CCC you subtract the ACTUAL weight of the RV from the GVWR of the RV.
2004 F-250 SCREW Long Bed (new)
OR 2004 F-150 HD (85,000 towing miles) Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
We have enough YOUTH...how about a fountain of SMART
CARGO CARRYING CAPACITY (CCC): the GVWR minus each of the following: UVW, full fresh (potable) water weight (including water heater), full LP-gas weight, and SCWR.
UNLOADED VEHICLE WEIGHT (UVW): the weight of a vehicle as built at the factory with full fuel, engine (and generator) oil and coolants.
SLEEPING CAPACITY WEIGHT RATING (SCWR): the manufacturer’s designated number of sleeping positions multiplied by 154 pounds
Up until 2008 CCC was the standard (cargo carrying capacity).
Take the Rv weight including full fuel , full water , full propane and 4 people at 154 lbs each (that is SCWR sleeping capacity weight rating) and suptract that from the GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating). That is CCC.
In 2008 NHTSA in their wisdom (or lack of) changed the standard so that it was the RV weight with full fuel and propane subtracted from the GVWR. The difference is that the passengers and water becomes part of the cargo making the rig APPEAR to have more capacity,. This shows in the new weight stickers that appear by law in the RV.
What ever you decide , new or used -- have it weighed with full fuel and potable water BEFORE you buy. Sometimes a CCC will be advertised that is all on the rear wheels. USELESS and dangerous. A tag axle does not necessarily guarantee a better CCC.
I've been reading thru posts and see folks talking about distribution... so, how do we figure that?
Also, just... is there any kind of "norm" for how much sane people pack onto MHs... or, like, a range even? What does "a lot" of cargo weigh when two people FT in a 40' Class A, let's just say? And what's a low cargo load? And then, what's a mid-range?
Just for a point of reference: My husband and I are not pack rats and don't have to have a lot of gadgets/toys to live comfortably. We will be carrying books and CDs to trade shows seasonally, but don't plan to bring much besides lawn chairs, a table, and maybe a couple of bikes, beyond daily necessities--food, clothing, tools, etc. that one packs inside the RV--for the rest of our journeys, at least initially. Like, we don't have a boat, or kayak, or motorcycle or anything. We are planning on a dinghy to tow though...
sigh. Confused. What can I read?
Hi, 20,000 lbs on a single axle is maximum allowed by DOT in almost all states. This is not enforced much but the OHIO turnpike and the PA. turnpikes will turn you back if you go over. That Endevor suggests 2700 CCC. I think that is optimistic but would be fine. I would suggest a minimal of 3000 true CCC with reasonable distribution. Towing a dinghy doesn't really effect CCC as there is no tongue weight. Need to watch GCWR.
Example:
A new Blue Bird has a 17000 front axle and a tag and they say about 2700 lbs CCC. Problem is that they are using 2 people, not 4 and 1/4 tank water so it is not a real CCC. Even with the 2 people , the weight distribution is ~ 600 lb forward of the drive axle and 2000 behind it. That includes the bays.Useless and will overload the front axle AND tires quickly. 2 crashes out of 58 units built and a recall.
Point is-- Weigh anything at all 4 corners BEFORE you buy
dentmac wrote: Hi, 20,000 lbs on a single axle is maximum allowed by DOT in almost all states. This is not enforced much but the OHIO turnpike and the PA. turnpikes will turn you back if you go over. That Endevor suggests 2700 CCC. I think that is optimistic but would be fine. I would suggest a minimal of 3000 true CCC with reasonable distribution. Towing a dinghy doesn't really effect CCC as there is no tongue weight. Need to watch GCWR.
Example:
A new Blue Bird has a 17000 front axle and a tag and they say about 2700 lbs CCC. Problem is that they are using 2 people, not 4 and 1/4 tank water so it is not a real CCC. Even with the 2 people , the weight distribution is ~ 600 lb forward of the drive axle and 2000 behind it. That includes the bays.Useless and will overload the front axle AND tires quickly. 2 crashes out of 58 units built and a recall.
Point is-- Weigh anything at all 4 corners BEFORE you buy
Your example of the Blue Bird leaves out some information - it would be helpful how you arrived at the weights on each axle when you didn't give the rating on the tags, nor the actual wheel weights, etc. Also, a Blue Bird only has 2700# of CCC?
We had about 5200 lbs of CCC with our coach - we've added about 3500 lbs (including a w/d) and carry more with us than we need. We keep weeding out. Interesting when I looked at our sheet, it had the propane listed as 42 gallons - - but with the new regulations, it can only be filled to 80% so only about 32 gallons. IIRC the weight distribution should be around 40% front and 60% back - someone correct me if I got this wrong.
One nice thing to do when traveling through Oregon is find a weight station that is closed - they leave the scales on and you can drive through and get axle weights as a good check - - not as good as each wheel, but better than nothing.
Barb
Barb
Barb & Dave - full-timing Traveling catpanion Shadow (age 12) Figment II (2002 Alpine 36 MDDS) Mischief (2004 Subaru Forester Toad) FMCA - F337834, SKP #90761 Our Blog
I've been reading thru posts and see folks talking about distribution... so, how do we figure that?
The total weight rating of your chassis 33,000 pounds; 13,000 on the front axle and 20,000 on the rear. That is your front-to-back distribution. What you need to do is get the thing weighted on a truck scale. You can find those at Interstate truck stops and at places like moving companies. Look in the Yellow Pages under Public Scales. Get the weights for the front and rear axles separately. It would be helpful to have separate weights for each wheel to see if the side-to-side weight distribution is ok but that is harder to do. If you can't don't worry about it for now.
Do not just ignore the whole thing and load everything you want into the RV. If you are over weight you are unsafe.
Tia.....My Diplomat, sister to the Endeavor, weighs in at 28500 pounds FULLY loaded......100 gallons each of water and fuel, propane and the fridge full of food, tools, chairs, spare parts and a spare tire. That leaves me 4500 lbs of additional CCC. The 40' Endeavor is 4 feet longer than mine and might eat up another 1000 pounds. It should be good for hauling what you want.
You say you may be boondocking often, make sure you don't get a coach with a residential refer or you'll have to start and run the generator everyday.
Don & Mary
2005 Monaco Diplomat 36SKT
400 Cummins
2007 Dodge Dakota 4WD
Blue Bird has 17,000 front, 23,000 drive and 13,000 tag. Weight distribution is a big problem and there is a recall underway in part moving the genset from the front to 1/2 way back. Advertised CCC was 3800. In fact was 1000 before the recall. The recall has increased the axle ratings and removed structural steel to lighten the rig.
4500 lbs of CCC in any 2 axle , 4 slide RV does not happen.
4 /6 separate wheel weights is the way to go. At least individual axles and realize that side to side can be 1000 lbs different which may overload the tires.
Tire pressure must be suitable for the heaviest side load (and equal pressure for both side
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