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Open Roads Forum  >  Class B - Camping Van Conversions

 > no dc power when camping

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NewsW

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Posted: 05/13/12 03:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Start with the coach battery and VOM.

Measure and verify voltage at battery.

Then go down to a point just past the first breaker (or fusible link or disconnect) and verify voltage each step of the way.

All the way to the converter.

What do you have?

Sometimes, fusible links are fitted that cannot be visibly seen to have "blown", and sometimes, resettable fuses do not reset or blow with no visible indication. Ditto for regular fuses.


Turn converter on... verify voltage at output... verify voltage at battery with converter on.

A bad battery can measure voltage OK with converter off, then converter trips off with insufficient voltage as soon as it is turned on.

If that pass, keep moving forward.


Off hand, my first guess is you have a bad battery.

* This post was edited 05/13/12 04:02pm by NewsW *

scarpi

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Posted: 05/13/12 04:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for your info, but at the end of your post you mentioned that it might be a bad battery. I mentined in my post that I tried a new battery and had the same problem. Thanks, Don

dreed

Mtm. View,Ca.

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Posted: 05/13/12 05:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The 2 red wires labeled converter go to a silver colored relay looking thing? There is a reset button on it. On mine it's on the right side. Did you try pushing that?
Dave

gerrym51

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Posted: 05/13/12 04:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bring it to a professional

cm

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Posted: 05/13/12 04:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you say you checked the breakers did you physically flip the breakers or did you just look at their position?

Sometimes a breaker will trip but still look like it is in the normal position. Flip each breaker two or three times to verify.

As someone mentioned check to see if you actually have current going into the breakers.

scarpi

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Posted: 05/13/12 05:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes I flipped the breakers on and off a couple of times. Thanks.

Well I'll probably take it in when I get home. With a class B, I did not tow a small vehicle so I would be stuck at an rv repair place all day with my wife and dog. Not the best scenario. I'll probably fill up the propane so that at least while we are visiting various places I can turn the gas on and have a cool frig. But for traveling, I'll just shut off the frig and hope it stays cool enough so no food spoils. It should all be fine. When I get home in a few days I'll take it in to my regular rv place. Thanks all, Don

NewsW

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Posted: 05/13/12 05:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

scarpi wrote:

Thanks for your info, but at the end of your post you mentioned that it might be a bad battery. I mentined in my post that I tried a new battery and had the same problem. Thanks, Don



Test the brand new battery.

I have seen "brand new" batteries fail the test.

Procedure:

Fully charge the battery first.

Load test it with a load tester.

It must produce sufficient current without a voltage drop to the converter cut off level.

If it pass the test, then retest with it under actual load from the converter, which may be more than the tester test.

Retest by measuring voltage and voltage drop when the converter is turned on.

qhor

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Posted: 05/13/12 06:56pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have a '97 LTV that not only has breakers inside the van, but also has in-line fuse links that in Canada are automatically reset in the case of an intermittent "trip". These fuse links can be installed in the most unusual places. I understand for vehicle standard differences the models that are manufactured for the USA have manual reset links. The may be the same for the Pleasureway models as well. The suggestion to use a voltmeter from the battery forward is your best advise or call Pleasureway; I understand they are very helpful.
Good luck.
Barry

dreed

Mtm. View,Ca.

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Posted: 05/13/12 07:08pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Previously I had a P/W 93 ltv. The "fuse links" as you called them were in a wierd place indeed. Like under a screw down panel behind the left rear wheel well. They made some improvements by installing them out in the open making it a lot easier to reset them.
Dave 04 p/w td

NewsW

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Posted: 05/13/12 07:37pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fusible links cannot be "reset".

They are replaced.

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/1106sr_aftermarket_wiring_kits/photo_17.html

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