fla-gypsy wrote: Oh here we go again with the "inflate based on weight", "ST vs LT", "China Syndrome", "Always go bigger" etc, etc.... I like to keep it simple. No Chinese made tires, always inflate to max, do not exceed 65 mph. After switching to Maxxis I have had zero issues. Problem solved for me.
Party pooper
LOL, at least some of us still have a sense of humor and don't take all this stuff too serious. I hate it when people try to make fairly simple stuff into brain surgery.
fla-gypsy wrote: Oh here we go again with the "inflate based on weight", "ST vs LT", "China Syndrome", "Always go bigger" etc, etc.... I like to keep it simple. No Chinese made tires, always inflate to max, do not exceed 65 mph. After switching to Maxxis I have had zero issues. Problem solved for me.
Party pooper
LOL, at least some of us still have a sense of humor and don't take all this stuff too serious. I hate it when people try to make fairly simple stuff into brain surgery.
Some people do take this stuff WAY too serious...Weight tables are nice..IF one has time to find scales and weigh each tire everytime they load up differently to make sure the tire pressure is "just right"...
Like fla-gypsy stated or using another formula: The "KISS" factor...keep-it-simple,stupid..(the stupid is for me)...My sidewall max pressure is 110psi...trailer manufacturer recommends running at 110 psi...case closed....110 psi is what it is...When I had E rated tires, I ran them at 80...Never have had the time or patience to find a place to run around and weigh each wheel's weigh, and match pressure with a weight chart....those tires don't last any longer than someone running at max side wall pressure. Your covered at max sidewall pressure on your TT or 5er and that's that..
I also don't add "5 psi for luck"...I add 5 psi if my 5er is going to sit for a couple of months, but if it states 110 psi, 80, 65 whatever on the sidewall, you can't go wrong by running that...Call the manufacturer and see what they say...well, I know what Goodyear and Michelin will say, but again, it's not rocket science...When in doubt, fill trailer tires to max sidewall pressure...you haven't done anything wrong...the manufacturer planned for that... I even made this sound harder than what it is...remember "KISS"...and you'll save your self a lot of worry...also keeping speed limit around 55-62 mph can't hurt either....
Jim & Kathy
2013 Dodge 3500DRW Longhorn 4X4/CC/LB/Aisin tranny/4:10/Cummins: 385HP/850TQ
06 HR Presidential Suite 37RLQ/ 4 slide/ dual pane windows/Winegard SK3005 Satellite/Splendide XC2100 W/D
Boxers;Buddy& Sheba II
USAF 71-75 Nam Vet
Bingo. This is how I look at it. My ST205/75R15 LRC's have a 50psi max on the sidewall. My trailer has a placard that recommends 50psi. I inflate to 50psi and don't have to think about it any more.
I also figure if the tires are inflated to 50psi, and I'm 750# under GVWR, there is no harm done. However, if I have the tires inflated less to match the 750# under GVWR, but I later put an extra 500# in the trailer, then there is potential harm. I sure don't want to have to weight the trailer each and every time I take her out.
NC Hauler wrote:
fla-gypsy wrote:
goducks10 wrote:
fla-gypsy wrote: Oh here we go again with the "inflate based on weight", "ST vs LT", "China Syndrome", "Always go bigger" etc, etc.... I like to keep it simple. No Chinese made tires, always inflate to max, do not exceed 65 mph. After switching to Maxxis I have had zero issues. Problem solved for me.
Party pooper
LOL, at least some of us still have a sense of humor and don't take all this stuff too serious. I hate it when people try to make fairly simple stuff into brain surgery.
Some people do take this stuff WAY too serious...Weight tables are nice..IF one has time to find scales and weigh each tire everytime they load up differently to make sure the tire pressure is "just right"...
Like fla-gypsy stated or using another formula: The "KISS" factor...keep-it-simple,stupid..(the stupid is for me)...My sidewall max pressure is 110psi...trailer manufacturer recommends running at 110 psi...case closed....110 psi is what it is...When I had E rated tires, I ran them at 80...Never have had the time or patience to find a place to run around and weigh each wheel's weigh, and match pressure with a weight chart....those tires don't last any longer than someone running at max side wall pressure. Your covered at max sidewall pressure on your TT or 5er and that's that..
I also don't add "5 psi for luck"...I add 5 psi if my 5er is going to sit for a couple of months, but if it states 110 psi, 80, 65 whatever on the sidewall, you can't go wrong by running that...Call the manufacturer and see what they say...well, I know what Goodyear and Michelin will say, but again, it's not rocket science...When in doubt, fill trailer tires to max sidewall pressure...you haven't done anything wrong...the manufacturer planned for that... I even made this sound harder than what it is...remember "KISS"...and you'll save your self a lot of worry...also keeping speed limit around 55-62 mph can't hurt either....
Erroll, Mary, Duffy the Badger Dog plus "Ollie"
2009 HiLo Towlite 2209T
2005 F150 Supercab 4x4, w/ 5.4L
Tires are designed to handle the added pressure when the air inside heats up from the flexing of the tire as well as the higher pressure when the tire heats up from changes in the ambient air temp. A tire that is at 50 PSI in the morning when you start driving with an outside air temp of 60 degrees will gain 5 PSI from normal driving and another 3 PSI if during the day the outside air temp increases to 80 degrees. So the 50 PSI can become 60 PSI but the tire is designed to handle the added pressure.
Usually tires fail suddenly as a result of hidden damage to the tire from an impact or from a manufacturing defect. Sometimes it is age with very old vehicles with very old tires.
One thing that a highway patrol officer I knew recommended was to drive to the nearest exit and get off the highway before changing a tire. As a CHP officer he had seen too many people killed while changing a tire.
For my part if I destroy a tire and destroy a rim the cost is well worth it to stay alive. In most cases the tire is toast anyway and the three times I have driven to an exit with a flat tire my rims have survived unharmed.
When I had ST's, I ran the max psi even when I upgraded to higher load range than I needed. It didn't do any good. Every 4 years, like clockwork, they go POW in spite of storing off the ground and covered. I went to 16 LTs and the tire shop said to run the max psi (80) but they only put in 70. They looked great at that psi so I've been running them that way and they run cooler than the ST's ever did. Craig
Thanks for all the great information. I was just wondering if I was doing it right. Seems that I did... Just bad luck... Hopefully the new set of tires will hold up for a few years then I'll look into getting something other than the ST tires. While I do not think the TPMS will help with tread separating issues at least I'll know when when the tire goes and perhaps save the rim...
I'm trying to think of a way to mount a sensor that would pickup the bounce of the axle when a tire starts to come apart. Vibration sensor? Or perhaps mounting a proximity switch on the side of the axle, connect all 4 sensors to a relay, then a light on the front of the camper that can be seen in the rear view mirror?
Gary
* This post was
edited 06/24/12 10:02am by WisconsinCamper *