Great Sedona Trip, Great Service At Barlow Jeep Rental
I just got back from Sedona and have to put it a recommendation for Barlow Jeep Rentals. I had my own vehicle and was not a customer, but they spent a good 15 minutes with me sharing trail info and map hand outs. They even offered use of their facilities to air up my tires. Knowledgeable, likeable people who support the off-roading community (be they customers or just fellow off-roaders). Ask for Nena (owner) or Joey.
http://www.barlowjeeprentals.com/
We stayed in Cottonwood (Dead Horse Ranch State Park), which worked out well. The campground offered plenty to do (hiking & fishing), had great views over Cottonwood and up to Jerome, and was 20 minutes from Sedona. We spent two days running trails and hiking in Sedona and one day on Mingus Mountain (ending the day at Jerome).
View from campground
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2700.jpg
Another view from campground – Verde River basin
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2643.jpg
View from Schnebly Hills Road
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2621.jpg
Broken Arrow Road
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2653.jpg
Broken Arrow
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2664.jpg
Broken Arrow
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2674.jpg
Soldier Pass – Snoopy Rock & Apache Pools
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2699.jpg
Mingus Mtn
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2712.jpg
Mingus Mtns – looking north, toward Sedona
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/Sedona-Nov%202009/100_2740.jpg
RE: Can you use the leveling jacks for tire removal?
I carry a 20 ton bottle jack (was something like $50- at Sams Club). I've never changed my RV tires, but if I did, I'd raise it with the levelers and brace it with the bottle jack.
When Is Windshield Crack Too Large?
I’ve had a couple small “star” pits in each side of the windshield for several years. Each has been drilled & filled; and have not been a problem until my last trip. One of the pits grew two arms, one side 8” and the other about 12”. These two cracks did not grow after I first noticed them (i.e. several days and 500 miles). The cracks are in the upper passenger side, where it is tinted - not at all in my line of vision.
Assuming these cracks do not grow (I know, big assumption), is it reasonable to leave as is?
Edit - here is a picture. This shows the original pit and the longer arm. All in the upper tinted area. Is is safe to leave it like this?
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/cvd01x/100_2760.jpg
RE: Forest Service CG - Extra Charge for Toad?
In case anyone is interested…the forest supervisor for the San Bernardino National Forest replied to me. The current prospectus under which that concessionaire is operating (“Campground Concessionaire Prospectus of 1998”), allows an extra charge for a toad:
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We have reviewed the Campground Concessionaire Prospectus of 1998, upon which the concessionaire, Alpine Camping Services, bases their pricing. It states:
"The basic campsite fee established for each campsite unit will allow for one vehicle per single campsite, or two vehicles in double campsites. A "vehicle" is defined as any motorized conveyance, including anything that is towed (with the exception of motorcycles). For example, a motor home towing a boat trailer is considered one vehicle but a motor home towing a small car is considered two vehicles," and "A fee may be charged for additional vehicles at the site".
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The letter then explained that when this 1998 contract expires (end of 2010), the new 10 year prospectus will be worded as follows:
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"A single-family camping unit may accommodate one vehicle. A "vehicle" is defined as any motorized conveyance, except that for purposes of vehicular capacity, two motorcycles are considered one vehicle. Additional vehicles may be allowed at a camping unit, if the camping unit can safely accommodate them. When extra vehicles are allowed, an extra fee of up to 50 percent of the camping unit fee may be charged for each extra vehicle. If an extra vehicle exceeds the camping unit capacity (i.e., the extra vehicle causes a safety hazard or resource damage), the customer may be required to pay for an additional camping unit or park in an overflow parking area, if available. One towed vehicle per single camping unit will be allowed for no extra charge if it can be parked completely on the surfaced area and does not create a safety hazard. Examples of towed vehicles include a boat trailer or a car towed by a motor home."
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The letter also said some contractors across the country are already working under the new prospectus (which doesn’t allow charges for a toad), while some are working under the 1998 prospectus (which does allow charging for a toad). Bottom line is there is some inconsistency currently, but it should improve after 2010. The charge/no charge for the toad isn’t that big a deal when other expenses for our recreation are considered, I just wanted some sort of explanation for the inconsistency (which I was pleased to receive).
Cliff
RE: Camp High Sierra (In Mammoth California) any experiences?
I’ve stayed at the Lake Mary forest service CG many times over the years. It is across the lake from the place you’re thinking about. One of the things I like about the area is the proximity to true wilderness, yet you are a 15 minute drive from town if you want a restaurant meal. Great fishing, hiking, biking, etc.
We were last there in early July. I noticed a shuttle that went to/from town, I think on an every 30 minute schedule during daylight hours, through Labor Day. Assuming this shuttle will be running when you go, you might consider leaving the toad home and using public transportation when you get the urge for civilization.
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/recreation/camping/lake-mary.shtml
Edit - I'm 99% sure the shuttle I saw was this Trolley - http://www.cityconcierge.com/mammoth-lakes/community/transportion.asp
Sedona – Stay at Dead Horse CG or Forest Service Land?
I’m planning a trip to Sedona in early November, mostly to hike and off-road through the red rock scenery. I need to decide between staying at Dead Horse CG in Cottonwood vs. disbursed national forest dry camping closer to Sedona. I usually prefer boondocking to a developed campground, but only when I know what sort of terrain I’ll be going over. I called the Red Rock Ranger office and was told there is a nice spot off of 89, about 9 miles southwest of town (FS 525). She said the dirt road was well graded and I should have no problems with a class A. Anyone familiar with this spot, or other legal camping spots that are close to the red rock area?
An alternative would be to make reservations at Dead Horse CG, and make the 30 – 40 min drive to the Sedona area. It looks like a nice enough place, but it doesn’t look like Sedona.
So Calif to GTNP, Overnight Near Idaho Falls or Jackson?
So. Calif to Grand Tetons, Place to Overnight Near Idaho Falls or Jackson?
I’m planning a trip to Grand Tetons, moslty for moose viewing (wife) and fishing (me). The plan is to camp at Gros Venture campground. I’ve driven by there before. Looks like a great place for both activites. I’ll pick up a rental car at the Jackson Hole airport once we arrive.
The plan for the commute is to stop on day 1 at Cedar City or Payson, Ut Walmart, then stop somewhere around Idaho Falls or Jackson on day 2, then go into the campground on the morning of day 3. I see no Walmart in Idaho Falls or Jackson. Any suggestions for a place to spend the night on day 2? (all I need is a legal, flat place to stop and sleep)
RE: Forest Service CG - Extra Charge for Toad?
... The only correct answer will come from the Ranger district for that CG.
Several of you have said to do this. I've just mailed my question to the "Forest Supervisor" for this national forest (postal mail, I couldn't find an email adress). I'll respond here when/if I hear back.
Forest Service CG - Extra Charge for Toad?
Is the definition of “2’d vehicle” changing at forest service campgrounds? I was just notified I’d have to pay an extra $10-/day because I towed a jeep behind a class A. They said it was a 2’d vehicle. In the past, a towed vehicle was not considered a 2’d vehicle. This was a forest service campground (Heart Bar) in San Bernardino National Forest.
I later talked to another host who said the contractor who runs the campground has changed the rules and has the right to make any rule changes they want under terms of their campground lease. I thought the contractor running the CG was simply running the CG, per the forest service regulations – but not implementing new policies.
While I don’t like the extra $10/day, I realize fees of all sorts for government services will be increasing. I just don’t like the idea of a contractor arbitrarily changing policy at individual campgrounds. If this contractor really can run the CG anyway they want, then it should no longer be considered a USFS campground.
So, my question – are others finding an extra fee for a toad behind a class A at USFS campgrounds?
RE: ISB Exhaust Brake Air Cylinder?
I called Jacobs. The tech support # goes to voice mail for a regional sale person. I did just submit the question to their email address, but was hoping someone here would have a quicker answer for me.
ISB Exhaust Brake Air Cylinder?
My coach is at the local truck repair shop for an Jacobs exhaust brake that isn’t functioning. They’ve narrowed it down to a cracked/broken air cylinder. They’re telling me they can’t find a replacement air cylinder (part # 020751), and their suppliers are telling them I have to replace the entire E-Brake assembly (part # 026666, model ISB-F). This e-brake assembly runs $480-, and has a 4 week delivery time.
They seem surprised they can’t find just a replacement air cylinder. Does anyone have experience with these exhaust brake parts and know if I can find a replacement air cylinder?
Thx,
Exhaust Brake Not Working, Where Do I Start Looking?
My exhaust brake no longer seems to be working and I need some pointers on where to look. It’s a 1999 Freightliner, 23,600 LB GVWR chassis with a Cummins ISB. The toggle switch on the dash says “Jacobs Brake”, but I believe it’s really an exhaust brake, not a true Jake Brake.
I imagine the switch controls some sort of baffle in the exhaust system, but I really don’t know how it works. Is there something as simple as a fuse I should be looking at before taking it to a shop?
My most recent trip convinced me something was wrong. I was going down Sherwin Grade (from Mammoth to Bishop, CA on 395). I started down in 2’d which has been plenty low in the past, holding me at 30 – 35 MPH without touching the brakes and without over reving. It was now over reving the engine constantly, forcing me to brake every 10 – 15 seconds. I then went down to 1’st gear, which held me at 15 - 20 MPH. I made it down the grade safely, but with a large lineup of vehicles behind me (there were stages of the road that were single lane). Again, something is missing in the “Jacobs Brake” that used to function properly.
Intellitec PowerLine EMS – E1 code
I’ve got some sort of problem with my power control devise (or it is telling me I have an electrical problem). Here’s what happened:
I pulled the RV out of the storage lot two days ago (it was last used 4 weeks ago). I ran a house line AC it for those two days to charge the batteries (4, 6 volt batteries, PD9260 converter). Today, I ran the AC just go make sure all is well. The AC had been running for about an hour, when I noticed the E1 code on the “PowerLine” panel.
I turned off the AC, which seemed to be working fine. Then unplugged the AC line, waited a minute, and plugged it back in. The AC is now running and the display shows 11 amps. All seems back to normal, except the fridge was running on LP, even though AC was available. I forced the fridge to AC mode (had been on auto), now it is flashing Lo AC.
I can’t find any literature on the Powerline panel in the folder of stuff that came with the RV.
Three questions:
What does E1 mean on the panel?
What would cause Lo AC on the fridge?
Are these likely related?
Suggestions?
RE: My Battery Amp Hours
x5erman - I believe you are right, in that the battery is an 82 amp/hr battery. However, you should "run" your battery between 100% and 50%. This means from full charge (82 amp/hrs of capacity), you have 41 amp/hrs to use, which will get you down to 50%. Then it's time to recharge. You can go lower than the 50% level, but it hurts the battery in the long run.
Like the Holiday Inn Express commercials - I'm no expert, but I did just read "The 12 Volt Side of Life"
RE: Does anyone still use CB?
I have one in the jeep. They are commonly used by clubs to communicate when on off-road runs. I added one to the RV mostly to communicate with the group when getting close to a remote camping site. Helps us find each other.
RE: Recomenation for portable air compressor
Here’s what I have:
At home – the Porter-Cable 6 gal, 150 PSI pancake unit others mentioned.
On the RV – quick connect on the chassis air system & 25’ of hose. It just reaches all 6 tires. Works only when the engine is running. I also have a small $40- AC compressor from Target in one of the storage bins. It’s fine for occasional top off of a couple tires (say 75 PSI up to 85 PSI). It would probably burn up if I had to fill more than one tire from empty.
In the Jeep – a 10 lb CO2 tank. Used for airing up the tires at the end of an off-road trip. Could be used on the RV if the others failed (it has a 150 PSI regulator)
I’m mostly a weekend camper. I check the air before every trip. Don’t need to check while on the road.
RE: golf cart batteries
I bought 4 Sams Club 6v batteries a few months ago. I found one of the batteries had one dry cell. Took it back and got another. They are working fine now.
Check water level on a regular basis (it's the first thing I did with the new batteries).
Also, the 12.7v indicator of "fullnes" is only true after the battery has stablilized after a charge. Look up "12 volt side of life" for more details.
RE: Onan Oil Filter Removal
Thanks for the feedback. I went down to Pep Boys and found filter wrenches in different sizes, each for $5-. The problem was the NAPA filter I had in my hand (I bought it this morning) was completely smooth at the end. Nothing for the wrench to catch on. Pep Boys had a Purolator matching filter that had the notches on the end for the wrench to catch. Went with that one, plus a matching wrench. Will return the NAPA filter. Job now complete. Thanks,
Onan Oil Filter Removal
I feel silly asking how to remove an oil filter, but here goes. How do I get a grip on the filter to spin it off? Only the very top part of the filter is exposed. Do I need to start removing panels? Or is there a special tool that grabs the top of this very small filter? It’s a 1999 Onan Marquis 6500 LP.
