I made a sliding drawer/rack for my 6' folding table. Stores the table right under my TT frame, keeps it out of the way until I need it. The repurpose part is the rails and wheels are from an old garage door assembly. I've copied/pasted below:
As I'm sure a lot of you do, I travel with a cooking table to do most of our cooking outside. However, having a travel trailer, storage of a six foot long cooking table is a bit of an issue. I got tired of carting the table in and out of the camper, as I had to store it on top of the bed when traveling.
I considered getting a folding table that folds to three feet. After looking at them, I realized I would never be happy with how they don't open up perfectly level. After all, how are you supposed to cook a killer batch of bacon if all the grease won't pool up where you need it to on the griddle?
So, I started brainstorming on a way to carry the table. Really, the only place that would work was under the frame of the TT. The trick: how to do it with a minimum of weight but strong enough to not give any problem?
I searched the internet over for ideas. Found a few that stored their spare tire, and other odds and ends under frame. However, my TT has an enclosed underbelly, so I wasn't going to be able to use any of that space.
I decided that slotted angle would be the best bet. I would make some drop brackets and bolt them to outside lip of the ibeam frame. Then run a six foot piece of angle to the other side of the TT. I even considered using the angle to make a sort of underbelly box that I could store other things in, such as chairs, etc.
As I started sketching it up, I began to realize that it might be more cumbersome than I first thought. My plan was to let the edges of the table rest on the angle and basically slide it in and out kind of like a drawer.
As I was brainstorming with a friend, he remarked how neat it would be if it could be on rollers, kind of like a garage door. Just so happened, I have rollers, and garage door rails!
Now, I was cooking. New plan.
Drill into the side of the table, and stick garage door rollers right in to the table. I drilled through the soft plastic and then into the metal frame of the table, like so:
image by 93Cobra#2771, on Flickr
Mount garage door rail instead of angle. Much lighter weight. Plus, if it can hold up a 300# garage door, I imagine it will be OK with a ten pound table. I drilled four holes per rail. I had to mount to the outside lip only, as the inside lip wasn't accessible without cutting into the underbelly, as well as notching a piece of channel that the underbelly is retained by. *Note, in this photo, the angle and the rail are temp mounted for mock up purposes.
image by 93Cobra#2771, on Flickr
Once I got the rails spaced correctly, and mounted (I used grade 8 hardware on all of it), I then fashioned a removable piece of slotted flat, with pins and clips, to retain the table in place while traveling FYI, the table is 6'. The distance from the outside edge of my driverside ibeam to the outside edge of my passenger side ibeam is exactly 6'. Happy accident. The below picture isn't great, but you get the idea. And, even though it looks like it is crooked, it is actually perfectly straight - curvature of the lens on the camera makes it look bent.
image by 93Cobra#2771, on Flickr
I have over 4000 miles on this mod, and everything looks as good as the day it was installed.
I was originally going to paint it black, and my do that in the future. However, I'm so dang proud of it that I'm leaving it as is so people will see it and ask about it. :-)
Hope this helps someone in their quest on how to transport their cooking table.
It's been a while since I've had anything but a 5er so help me refresh my memory. Obviously having not enough spring to your WD bars is bad but can having too much be bad as well?
If I'm shooting for about a 800lbs tongue weight will 1200lb trunnion bars be too much?
I ask because I had a Reese Dual cam system with our first TT and LOVED it! I never have liked the friction type sway controls and would like to go back with the dual cam again but I don't see that they have them in anything under 1200lb spring bars.
It's usually suggested to go the next step up from what your tongue weight is. I think the 1200# will be perfect for your application.
FYI, heavier bars will take some of the "bounce" out. A stiffer bar will actually ride stiffer than a lighter bar. Think of the bar as a spring without a shock. Hit a dip with that softer bar and it can flex a lot and have several oscillations between the TV and the TT. A stiffer bar will be more resistant to this motion, just like a super duty truck rides stiffer than an F150.
Anyhow, that's my take on it. YMMV.
Not that I've heard. Being as how camping world basically owns this forum, I can't see them putting them back in. They had some a number of years ago, and they took them down. That's my understanding at least.
Craigslist is what I use. Most of the camping stuff is so cheap it would cost more to ship it. And anything that's worth anything is usually heavy so shipping isn't an option.
I got vented rotors and ceramic pads at Autoanything.com Your application seems to be priced at 183.19
This. Major improvement over stock braking with these on my 2011 F150. I actually got the Z36 heavy duty kit, and bought from rockauto.com. Best pricing by far.
If you have rubber (slightly floppy) valve stems, might want to have those replaced with all-metal type, because the caps do add a few grams of mass to the tip-end of the stem. (Discount Tire replaced mine quite cheaply, though I did bring them "loose" wheels a couple at a time - wasn't interested in trusting them to jack correctly, nor navigate their small parking area)
Yes, I highly recommend metal valve stems as well. Especially with the flow through sensors. Very likely to have a valve stem failure due to the weight of the sensor. I used metal stems with a 45° bend to them - keeps the sensors tucked in nice and tight. In the past, I used a piece of vacuum line over the valve stem to keep the stem from flexing. Made it nice and tight in the hole in the aluminum rim (a standard metal valve stem wouldn't work). Found a better type of stem later on that fit inside my aluminum rim.
All you folks that have the TST 507 system....is my system operating like yours?
At startup, it takes upwards of 45 minutes for the system to "find" all the tires (8 sensors) and start reporting. It will "find" two or three immediately, and then upwards of 45 minutes to find the rest.
One of my sensors eats batteries. Put in a new one and two days later it's not reporting again.
Definitely something wrong there. I would contact TST.
I knew my TN Volunteers would chime in to help a brother out, thanks and keep them coming if anyone else thinks of anything. Right now, Woodsmoke is looking pretty good, but will call and verify still in operation on Monday. No idea what other fields are going to be used besides ETSU, so figured I'd default to the west/south of Johnson City since it is closer to home.
Our son has a baseball camp and tournament there middle of next month. Hoping to find something fairly close by, preferably on the Knoxville side (will be coming via I40 to I81 to I26. So I guess something along I26 possibly?
Open to ideas, but would really prefer to be on the Knoxville side, as the tournament may be over late enough so that we will want to get home as quickly as possible afterwards (about a 150 miles from home).
Doesn't have to be fancy or anything like that, as we likely won't be spending very much time there.
Thanks in advance.
Just bought 4 Maxxis And went up from c to D rated. Havent put them on the road yet but we shall see how they hold up. My last set was 4 dealer knock offs and lasted 4 years without issue.
Good way to go. D gives you extra capacity and Maxxis are a reputable brand.
Hate to hear that. Honestly, with the sound of your health, it might be best in the long run. Some campgrounds (myrtle beach travel park is a good example) will actually rent you a camper that they will set up on site for you.
Or, Ocean Lakes Family Campground has hundreds of houses you can rent, some are downright reasonable.
Anyhow, good luck!
Yet pretty much every new car out there now has tpms built into them, as mandated by the government (I think it's mandated?).
Oh, and there are also warnings that inform you the car is running when you open your door.
PLENTY of folks out there that don't look at their tires till the tire warning pops up on the dash. Fact is, a lot of people simply don't do preventative maintenance, nor do they even inspect things and such...
How about leaving cold water faucet ON in the bathroom, the sink stopper in the drain.... hooking up water and turning it on full blast at the campsite...and then getting distracted visiting with neighbors for 10 minutes. Not a good beginning to a camping trip! Guess what else was added to "the list"!
My hard and fast rule is water DOES NOT get turned on until someone is in camper and is able to visually look at all faucets to confirm water isn't running.
They are likely determining if it was caused by lack of maintenance or damage from towing (wind).
If you have any maintenance receipts from inspections, recaulking, etc, now is the time to try and dig them out.
I would definitely go cheap if I were in that situation. Nice flat panel and easy to cover up.
First look would be a boat repair shop of some type. That's where I would start.
Earlier poster's idea about some type of overlay using sheet metal or aluminum would be very cost effective. Wouldn't look as good as fiberglass repair, but a WHOLE lot cheaper.
Measure the front wheel well height of your normally loaded truck before hitching up and then again hitched up with a WD system. Keep that front wheel well height as close as possible. Allow your trucks rear axle and the trailer axles carry the load.
Actually, current instructions for most trucks say to have the front fender height 1/2 the distance, as opposed to being back to stock.
In the event of a panic stop, this keeps the rear wheels loaded better and makes the rig less likely to jackknife...