Perhaps I'm missing something, but what TT out there actually have a true clear cloat applied to them? Last I saw, it was gel coated fiberglass. Is the front cap actually painted and cleared or is is molded into the fiberglass? Yes, I am aware there are a few TT out there with full body paint, but I don't think the OP has one.
I'm betting that the spots were always there and you are just now finding them. My opinion, of course.
If it's rated to 65mph it's the same as almost every ST tire on the market... even if it is indeed 8". Propaganda? LOL. People need to calm down. You'd think they were curing cancer with how fired up they get about a product that they aren't even using. Swivel Wheel has been around for a long time. Lots of units sold. No reports of failure or jail time for the offending owners. RELAX everyone. If it's not for you, don't use it. If it works, then do. But really, this site is full of stroke victims waiting for it to happen with the high blood pressure you all get over other people's setups. The longer I'm on this site, the more I realize that people here have morphed from trying to help other RVers into taking great pleasure in shooting down other's setups. From the weight police to the swivel police to every other thing you all condemn as dangerous and illegal. Really. It's getting old.
You win for this post. SPOT ON!!!!
Would be very interesting to see how the landing gear would help trailer rocking. My steps are close to my wheels, and going in and out feels like the SS minnow no matter how tight the stabilizers are.
Thought about adding more stabilizers close to the wheels, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
After doing a bit of research, it appears Torklift International started off with the GlowStep in truck camper market.
I know a couple of things relating to it: The sensors are triggered on the motion of rolling along down the road and turns itself off when sitting still. Usually by the time I hit 25MPH or so the monitor is reading pressure of all sensors. So no battery life lost while parked.
Where are you getting this information?
When my car is sitting in the garage, I can turn on the TST monitor and within a few minutes I will get PSI and temp readings even if the car does not move.
It requires a bit of time for all the sensors to register with the monitor. Motion does not trigger them.
As far as I know, TST sensors do not "go to sleep".
I have read a manual for another brand that does have a sleep mode. TireTrakker, IIRC.
After reading my manual, it states that the sensors drop into "battery saving mode" when there is zero pressure. In other words, when you remove them from the valve stem.
It also says "automatic activation when vehicle is in motion". I'm not sure if that means they are "asleep" until motion is detected, or if it means there is nothing to do to check tire pressure, or what.
I'm sure TST would be happy to elaborate. They have, quite honestly, one of the best customer service departments I have dealt with in years.
I think if you have any questions about specific systems, then the customer service should be contacted for the respective company. There seems to be quite a bit of misinformation regarding TPMS systems and their functionality.
I don't quite understand the reluctance to use/rely on a TPMS. Yes, you should visually inspect tires at each stop. But you can't do that while physically driving. Even if the TPMS doesn't perform exactly like everyone thinks it should, why not have that extra bit of insurance while on the road?
And trust me, if it loses pressure like a blowout, it WILL alarm you pretty darn quick. Within seconds. I have tested it myself by removing the sensor from the stem while the monitor is in my hand. Or, as an alternative, just don't use a TPMS and run it down to the rim/blowout on the road as so many people have reported doing, while tearing off the side of their camper. There has been TWO cases where the TPMS has saved me. Once, I had a tire starting to delam, and temp went up. Other time, picked up a nail and had a slow leak.
Is it a perfect system? Nope. But I'm going to run one as insurance and a backup to normal vigilance.
Again, I encourage everyone to contact whichever TPMS system manufacturer they wish and ASK QUESTIONS. Don't rely on information you see on the web. Call and ask.
I've always, except on one occasion, used awning cleaner specifically designed for the purpose, and with great results. The one time I tried that "bleach / water mix and roll up the awning" trick it irreparably damaged the awning vinyl which I then had to replace ... and that which dripped off the awning also destroyed the shirt I was wearing at the time. :M
You used too much bleach. 1/2 cup to 2 gallons water, and 1/4 cup dishwashing detergent is what I use. Wet awning with the mixture, roll up for 15 minutes or so, and then unroll and rinse.
If that doesn't get it all, then do it again and leave the mixture on a bit longer. Works like a champ for me, and my shirt didn't have any holes to boot. :-D
Yes id check it there .when a bearing fails,the wheel could fall off, had it happen on a hay mower trailer yesterday.if its the bearing, easiest way to see if a bearing is worn in most cases, is to jack it up, grab top and bottom of the tire,then wiggle back and forth. Excess play usually means a bearing is going.physical and visual are always the best way to check though. But from whAt it sounds like i would guess pad and drum are rubbing a bit.
This. Grab sides and give a good shake and see if it feels loose. While up it would have been great time to remove wheel and do a visual inspection of bearings.
No way would I pull out of there till I figured out what was going on. Much easier to fix at a CG than on the side of the road.
You have one of two items:
Dragging brake drum
Bearing on way out
I would find a jack, get it up in the air and figure it out.
The most important thing of all - keep your speed reasonable. Especially since first time towing. I'm talking 55-60mph. Oh, and your trailer tires are only speed rated to 65mph.
Put the max tire pressure in your tires. Being an 09 model trailer, your tires are over 5 years old. Inspect them CAREFULLY for any signs of dry rot/cracking or damage. If you find any, then you need to put new tires on it before you hit the road. In fact, I'm not so sure I wouldn't put new tires on it anyway.
MAKE SURE you adjust the hitch correctly. You can't just slap it on and expect it to be right. There is a sticky in the travel trailer forum on how to set up a hitch properly. I can't stress enough how important it is for you to do it correctly.
Air your truck tires up to max pressure as well.
Plan on hearing that 5.0 sing all the way home, but it will be OK. Just take your time. And yes, you are likely maxed out on all your numbers.
In my TT the switch inside the TT turns on the gas function. If you want to run on electric, just turn the switch outside in the heater on and it will turn on the electric heating element. You don't need to do anything inside the trailer.
If you normally camp with hookups you probably never really need to turn on the switch inside the trailer ...
I'd disagree with this completely ... if you turn on the WH electric element and just leave it on for the duration of your stay it's quite easy to exceed the limits of 30 amp campsite service and pull a breaker. :M That electric element can easily pull 12.5 amps, during the hot summer months your A/C could pull another 14 amps, so if you forget and then try to also run your MW oven at the same time it could easily pull another 10 amps, the result being a total draw well in excess of your maximum 30 amp campsite supply. It's understandable that some may want to use their WH's electric heating option to save on propane or to use it along with gas in order to shorten the time it takes for water to heat up again BUT if you do so you want to manage just when that electric element is on and when it's not. That's why it's so much more advantageous to be able to control it from inside the camper rather than have to go outside each time and open the WH hatch in order to access that electric element on/off switch. This is exactly the reason I installed my own switch inside the camper - so I wouldn't have to go through this annoying routine. :S
I guess I'm an exception, as I was able to run with the electric switch on 98% of the time. Unless my wife tried to make coffee, dry her hair and run the AC at the same time.
And yes, a PITA to go out and flip the rocker switch to turn it on every time.
IIRC, there is a sensor that will keep you from burning out your element if you don't have water in it. Not all units have that, but I believe this particular one does. That would explain why it didn't burn out while drained and on shore power.
I considered the rain cap, but it doesn't address water intrusion behind the trim that it attaches to. You still have to rely on screws run through butyl tape to not leak. I ran 4" eternabond from the top of the roof into the gutter itself, covering the entire piece. No chance of water intrusion.
To the OP, you likely have a low spot in the gutter. Other than try to bend it up just a bit. Might be a good idea to get on the roof with a water hose and see if you can see what's actually going on.
Mine actually had a seam in the gutter that wasn't sealed very well. And of course, it was dripping right above the door and giving the exact same issue you are having.
Some people must have tall barns to keep them high horses in. No way does dumping tanks at a full hookup site cause the foul odor the OP claims. The standard equipment everyone uses does not emit odors. The sound of water going through a sewer pipe can not be heard much past a a radius of 12 inches. The sound of beating a dead (high) horse carries much further.
That's assuming people are using the standard equipment, or using it correctly. I have seen unbelievable setups for dumping. Stinky sleep just dropping straight into the connection (no donut or any true connection), all kinds of crazy stuff propping the slinky up (including, what appeared to be an old toaster oven). And that also assumes the sewer connection at the CG works correctly. I've seen some where the threaded end is simply slipped over the pipe, not glued.I'm sorry, but complaining about this is about as useful as complaining that the guy in the site next to me drives a red Ford truck.
Which is about as useful as you complaining about my post...