Yep - my friend owns a quicklube and they drop the trans pan and the pan under the motor. As do I.
Honestly, it's not that bad. Just awkward laying on your back while doing it. The funnel thing under the oil filter, with two outlets, is the culprit. If it only dropped it out the front it would be great, but no, it has to drop it out the back too - right on top of the pan under the motor.
That's what the square rubber pieces are for - allowing the oil to finish draining out of there. It would almost be worth it to put an oil filter relocation kit on it so I didn't have to deal with it any more.
Anyone who has ever changed the oil on an EB should recognize this.
It's an access cover on the splash pan to drain the oil from the oil filter. Remove this cover before removing the oil filter.
You can twist it back on. The opening will be located on the driver side under the engine.
Bingo. It lets oil flow through the "skidplate" that sits below the motor/trans.
I take my entire plate off prior to draining oil, makes life much easier.
At that size, I would strongly recommend the Hensley or the PP.
If you watch your local craigslist, you will likely find one used for a fraction of the cost. I have found three local to me in the past 3 years. One for 800, one for 450, and one for 250. Guess which two I got and refurbished (basically painted them).
I forget to update: I checked the table out yesterday after I got home. No water puddled on top. Table was a bit dusty but I didn't see evidence of road grime/water spray. And that was with 150 miles of rain at 60mph.
As of right now, I won't be making any changes.
I guess, as I think about it - the underbelly itself doesn't get covered with road spray. And the rails are right beside the table itself, literally covering the entire edge of the table. I guess airflow under the TT is such that it never really sucks up on to the table.
I guess I would be the friend with uneven folding table. I hope your next site is uneven, your camping buddy :-)
It's not like a called you out by name. Once you attain your "bacon master" status, you'll be looking to upgrade your table. LOL
Not so far. I actually use them. I hang a trash bag off one and drape my power cord over another to keep it from sliding off the table.
And if they do get in the way, I simply pull them out. They are fully floating in the table, just like a garage door. They are just right enough to stay in, but loose enough to pull without any tools.
Great concept, as we are always looking to bring everything and the outside kitchen sink along!
It's not just the mud and dirt, but mechanical abuse; ie ground clearance. I do a lot of logging and industrial roads and old, overgrown retired roads. Would not work for our conditions.
I can definitely see that as an issue. Only way to work around that would be to skin the "chassis" of the table slide with some lightweight aluminum or sheetmetal to use like a skidplate on a truck. I think the entire assembly hangs down ~3", so there isn't much of a loss of clearance.
And if mounted close to the wheels on the camper, less chance of banging on stuff.
Very slick and clever!
Do you travel with the table upside down or right side up? I'd think the legs might be prone to flop out if it's right side up, which would obviously be a bad thing, but upside down it would seem likely to collect any water that splashes up.
I initially was going to do it right side up. Then realized I would have to fashion a way to keep the legs retained with a pin or such. Decided I would go the more simple route and go upside down.
The table fits VERY close to the underbelly, so I'm hoping that it won't be full of water when I go check it out today.
I considered the folding tables, but a few of my friends have them and they don't sit level enough for me.
JMO but wouldn't it be easier to haul two 2'x4' tables flat in your truck bed?
I've struggled with both and the two 2'x4' is easier to deal with.
Nice idea though.
I typically throw our chairs (4), loading blocks (4 stacks), sewer hose support (1), firepit and assorted firewood, 14" small round weber grill, and other assorted odds and ends in there. Gets a bit crowded.
Plus, my bed is the 5-1/2' bed, so the table won't fit in there with the tailgate up unless I leave it sticking out the top. And I really like only having one table to deal with.
Which means my bakflip bed cover has to be opened up at least one panel. Which gets my chairs wet if it's raining.
So, no, it wouldn't be easier. :-)
Good idea, nice write up.
Question: Does the table get filthy riding under there while on the road?
That is a great question. I will know today when I go check it out. We just got back from Myrtle Beach, and the last 150 miles were in the rain.
I can say that in non rain conditions, table seemed to stay pretty darn clean with very little dust. It is mounted three feet in front of the TT wheels.
If I feel it is getting too much filth on it while traveling, I'll put a wind deflector made of coreplast in front of it to shoot the air down. In fact, I could fully box it in with coreplast if I wanted, as I work for a printing company and I can get 4x8 sheets of black coreplast at cost.
As I'm sure a lot of you do, I travel with a cooking table to do most of our cooking outside. However, having a travel trailer, storage of a six foot long cooking table is a bit of an issue. I got tired of carting the table in and out of the camper, as I had to store it on top of the bed when traveling.
I considered getting a folding table that folds to three feet. After looking at them, I realized I would never be happy with how they don't open up perfectly level. After all, how are you supposed to cook a killer batch of bacon if all the grease won't pool up where you need it to on the griddle?
So, I started brainstorming on a way to carry the table. Really, the only place that would work was under the frame of the TT. The trick: how to do it with a minimum of weight but strong enough to not give any problem?
I searched the internet over for ideas. Found a few that stored their spare tire, and other odds and ends under frame. However, my TT has an enclosed underbelly, so I wasn't going to be able to use any of that space.
I decided that slotted angle would be the best bet. I would make some drop brackets and bolt them to outside lip of the ibeam frame. Then run a six foot piece of angle to the other side of the TT. I even considered using the angle to make a sort of underbelly box that I could store other things in, such as chairs, etc.
As I started sketching it up, I began to realize that it might be more cumbersome than I first thought. My plan was to let the edges of the table rest on the angle and basically slide it in and out kind of like a drawer.
As I was brainstorming with a friend, he remarked how neat it would be if it could be on rollers, kind of like a garage door. Just so happened, I have rollers, and garage door rails!
Now, I was cooking. New plan.
Drill into the side of the table, and stick garage door rollers right in to the table. I drilled through the soft plastic and then into the metal frame of the table, like so:
image by 93Cobra#2771, on Flickr
Mount garage door rail instead of angle. Much lighter weight. Plus, if it can hold up a 300# garage door, I imagine it will be OK with a ten pound table. I drilled four holes per rail. I had to mount to the outside lip only, as the inside lip wasn't accessible without cutting into the underbelly, as well as notching a piece of channel that the underbelly is retained by. *Note, in this photo, the angle and the rail are temp mounted for mock up purposes.
image by 93Cobra#2771, on Flickr
Once I got the rails spaced correctly, and mounted (I used grade 8 hardware on all of it), I then fashioned a removable piece of slotted flat, with pins and clips, to retain the table in place while traveling FYI, the table is 6'. The distance from the outside edge of my driverside ibeam to the outside edge of my passenger side ibeam is exactly 6'. Happy accident. The below picture isn't great, but you get the idea. And, even though it looks like it is crooked, it is actually perfectly straight - curvature of the lens on the camera makes it look bent.
image by 93Cobra#2771, on Flickr
I have close to 1000 miles on this mod, and everything looks as good as the day it was installed.
I was originally going to paint it black, and my do that in the future. However, I'm so dang proud of it that I'm leaving it as is so people will see it and ask about it. :-)
Hope this helps someone in their quest on how to transport their cooking table.
Interesting picture and story. It appears that only one side was torn in a tension incident.
The strut normally forces the head forward (and the ball into the TT coupler pocket) when properly adjusted, and the threaded strut rod just falls out of its tube when pulled straight ahead in mock tension by these pin holes. It is hard to imagine how this occurred.
Perhaps the head was somehow allowed to suddenly rotate by the rear strut pin coming out, and the strut rod, trapped by the tongue frame, twisted out of its pin mounting when the head rotated. One would think the strut pin boss would break off first, but the forward threaded strut rod end is solid steel otherwise.
My HA I picked up second hand had elongated holes in the same position on both sides. The HA people said it was caused by improperly adjusted strut bars, allowing the head to flop back and forth.
They all have problems. It is certainly an inconvenience, but it happens. The fridge was a supplied product from the manufacturer, so it's hard to blame starcraft other than saying their chosen vendor has an issue. There are only a couple of vendors of fridges, so either you got very unlucky or a lot of them have the same issue.
As far as the couch, sometimes they make running changes when they realize they are having issues. Hopefully that will be the case.
I have heard of a few guys w/ over heating issues over on an F150 forum I frequent, but it does not seem to be widespread. The ones who complain (and I don't use that in a derogatory sense) about it say it happens on long slow climbs up dirt roads and so forth.
I have also heard some problems with the fan relay. Apparently there are 3 fan speeds, with a couple relays that make the highest speed kick in. A problem with the relay won't manifest itself until you really need the extra cooling. I know when my max fan kicks on, it sounds like an airplane taking off.
FWIW, I haven't had any overheating issues with mine.
You are correct, I remember the same fan issue cropping up on a few. I've never actually heard mine like you guys are describing while pulling. Mine is an early production 11'.
Honestly, you are the first person I've heard with head gasket issues. I imagine the truck has overheated a time or two since you are replacing radiators?
The few failures I've heard of are usually windowed blocks where something let loose. And believe me, there are VERY few of them out there.
Crush and Run is what it's called in my area. Basically a mixture of rock, rock dust, and water. Sets up nice and solid.
I did crush and run, and a 20x40 carport. The carport was one of the best investments I've made. Camper stays clean year round. Love it!
Some WDH manufacturer's still are using the same "equal-squat" approach which was applied to the family sedans commonly used for tow vehicles 40-50 years ago.
Its not about equal squat. Its about getting the front axle back to original weight..
Actually, it's not. As mentioned and pointed about above - getting the front axle to original weight is going against what Ford recommends. Ford wants the front end rise to be half when the WDH is applied.
Most of the other truck manufactures have followed suit and changed their specs as well. It has to do with better handling in emergency situations, IIRC.
With that being said, my front end rise is 1/3, as it rides and handles better, IMO.