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 > Your search for posts made by '93Cobra2771' found 248 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Zep or Wax on new TT

Wax gets my vote. I worked for a chemical manufacturer for a number of years, and floor finishes were one of the things we actually made. And Zep products were some of our competition, along with Proctor and Gamble, etc. The zep product is a floor finish and designed to be applied to asphalt tile (like what you see in grocery stores. It has zero UV protection. It is not rated for use outdoors, period. With that being said, I understand how some people are trying to bring back faded materials. Zep may be the only way to do that. However, for a new TT, I would go wax all the way. I would use Collonite 845. It is amazingly easy to apply. It, however, is not a cleaner wax.
93Cobra2771 07/29/14 02:04pm Travel Trailers
RE: Rear rack / Bike rack

Still waiting for the picture of how it's attached to the frame. Good job!
93Cobra2771 07/29/14 01:59pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Starcraft Customer service

That is great to hear! Too often you hear horror stories and not the good stories. Thanks for sharing.
93Cobra2771 07/25/14 08:33pm Travel Trailers
RE: First Time with ProPride

Wes - I'm glad you remembered to check, as I 100% totally forgot to. And yes, it was the foot that was the issue. I too, had an issue where I was at a fairly extreme angle, and where I had backed up the hitch head had shifted to one side. I ended up pulling the pin on the foot, dropping the jack, then putting the foot back on. This was on my old manual tongue jack. The new jack has a round foot and doesn't go up as high as the old one. Just high enough to catch the WD bars. Regarding the bump - I have felt it. I think it is more easily felt with 1/2 ton trucks and heavier TT combos. I can also feel the hitch head swing from side to side in the case of a slow "S" turn. Part of the route on our regular campground is through the Smoky Mountains, and the road has quite a few low speed turns as well as off throttle coasting. If you aren't on your brakes, you will feel the bump as the HH head pivots to one side or the other. You can trail brake lightly with your controller and it won't happen. Am I missing something, I paid good money for my Hensley and I don't get a bump. I did manage to bend a strut bar once and that caused a lot more than a bump. I check my strut bars at every stop and if there is the least bit of wiggle, I give the adjuster a quarter turn and no wiggle. I have leaned the rear bumper right up against the A-frame and have never felt anything out of the ordinary. How did you bend a strut bar? Did you have to try real hard? ;) There are two ways to bend a strut bar: 1. Turn too sharply and put the linkage in a bind. 2. Allow one or both of the bars to get loose. Hitch head will start flopping around and something gives, eventually.
93Cobra2771 07/25/14 06:34am Travel Trailers
RE: Help! Ford (F150) has got me totally confused

It is limited slip but not electronic locking.
93Cobra2771 07/24/14 10:42am Tow Vehicles
RE: First Time with ProPride

Wes - I'm glad you remembered to check, as I 100% totally forgot to. And yes, it was the foot that was the issue. I too, had an issue where I was at a fairly extreme angle, and where I had backed up the hitch head had shifted to one side. I ended up pulling the pin on the foot, dropping the jack, then putting the foot back on. This was on my old manual tongue jack. The new jack has a round foot and doesn't go up as high as the old one. Just high enough to catch the WD bars. Regarding the bump - I have felt it. I think it is more easily felt with 1/2 ton trucks and heavier TT combos. I can also feel the hitch head swing from side to side in the case of a slow "S" turn. Part of the route on our regular campground is through the Smoky Mountains, and the road has quite a few low speed turns as well as off throttle coasting. If you aren't on your brakes, you will feel the bump as the HH head pivots to one side or the other. You can trail brake lightly with your controller and it won't happen.
93Cobra2771 07/24/14 07:01am Travel Trailers
RE: fridge exhaust fans added

31.21 cfm is what it looks like to me. 3121 cfm is comparable to cooling fans on cars at full speed...
93Cobra2771 07/23/14 12:25pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Help! Ford (F150) has got me totally confused

I guess the main question I have now is if we really want the 3.73 gears. I don't think we would ever get a trailer weighing more than ~7k lbs and less than 10% of our driving would be pulling a trailer. We do live in the northwest and most of our travel involves pulling through mountains, sometimes very large mountains but from the sounds of it the eb has ample power to handle just about anything. I would absolutely go no less than 3:55s. 3:73s are ideal, IMO. At 60mph, 3:55s put you around 1300rpm, give or take. 3:73s put you at 1700rpm, give or take. I pull at 55-60mph, so unless I lock out sixth, I'm lugging it. 3:73s would put around 1700rpm, which is making decent boost, enough to avoid downshifting as much. You will love the power of the EB, especially at altitude and around 2200-2800rpm. You will have power to spare with your current camper, and room to grow with a bigger one.
93Cobra2771 07/23/14 11:59am Tow Vehicles
RE: Advice needed: how to keep a rig cooler...

Do the free/easy stuff mentioned above, and see if that helps. If not, then the 50a conversion, or at the very least an additional 20a circuit with a small a/c running on it will be the way to go.
93Cobra2771 07/22/14 12:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Inside Bike Storage

Do what I did - use quick release skewers for the front tire on the bikes. Mount quick releases on the bottom of dinette seat. Flip dinette over when bicycles not on it. Works great. I just wheel the bikes through the door and mount them up.I already store a ton of stuff on the dinette seats. Currently, everything that we set-up outside like the chairs, screen house, folding table, carpet, etc. goes on the dinette seat area. They make trailers with large inside storage areas, I would like to check some out to see if I like them or not. Not that your idea wouldn't work, it's just not where I have my head at this time. No problem - just didn't want you to constrain yourself to just that floorplan, as that can really limit your choices. Carry on! :-)
93Cobra2771 07/22/14 12:47pm Travel Trailers
RE: Advice needed: how to keep a rig cooler...

You will be shocked when you see how poorly the ducts are sealed on the ducted a/c units. Not just the ducts, but the inlet and return air ducts. I found mine to be improperly sealed between the return and cool side. Fixed that issue with some foam and duct tape. Also sealed the ducts to the wood, since all they had done was cut some holes and stick the ducts in. I definitely picked up some cfm coming out of the ducts.
93Cobra2771 07/22/14 12:10pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Used Hensley Arrow

Its funny that people are saying these hitches are worth $1000.00 or more. My neighbor cant even sell his for $800.00. He is talking about selling it back to Hensley for $600.00. I guess these hitches are already a thing of the past or people have figured out there not worth that kind of money. I am curious what Hensley does with these when they buy them back? Maybe the West coast markets are a little different. $800 is probably an average price for a used one. I've seen three in the past three years in my area. I bought two of them. Third one a friend bought. First one was $450. Needed paint and a few parts. Second one was $200. Needed paint and a few more parts. Third one was $800. Needed nothing. Tell your friend to put it on Craigslist and it will eventually sell in the 600-800 range, give or take, according to condition.
93Cobra2771 07/22/14 11:59am Travel Trailers
RE: Inside Bike Storage

Do what I did - use quick release skewers for the front tire on the bikes. Mount quick releases on the bottom of dinette seat. Flip dinette over when bicycles not on it. Works great. I just wheel the bikes through the door and mount them up.
93Cobra2771 07/22/14 11:52am Travel Trailers
RE: Ecoboost out- 6.7L Powerstroke is in!

Out of curiosity, why didn't you go with a dually?
93Cobra2771 07/22/14 11:47am Tow Vehicles
RE: RV Wireless TPMS Systems - which one is preferred

The flow through sensors, in my case, stick out 1.5" past lip of rim. However, they are only .25 past edge of tire sidewall. Sensors are 2-3/8" in total length.
93Cobra2771 07/21/14 09:42am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: First Time with ProPride

... *snip I would recommend against leaving the jack foot down below the WD bars on a Hensley. The Hensley hitch is capable of turning so sharp (I'm not sure about the Pro-Pride), that under some tight-turn conditions a bar will side-swipe the jack shaft and cause a severe bind. Keeping the foot up and clear and, if necessary, straightening the hitch head by straightening out the rig angle is the preferred method to be able to lower the jack for parking. The Hensley can turn significantly sharper than standard hitches because the extra stinger length provides extra clearance so that the truck bumper does not strike the A-framed TT tongue so far back where it is still wide. A Hensley is about one foot longer than a standard hitch, and in my case as an advantage, allows my tailgate to drop fully down clear. I can't say that about the new Eaz-Lift I bought (The tailgate hits my power jack head just past half open). These ingenious 4-Link Hensley designed hitches do exactly as they state. They provide a sway-free, safe towing experience, even in extreme adverse conditions, and no other TT hitch type (other than a Pull-Rite) can perform as well. That is why I am keeping mine, even if I don't use it all the time. I do a lot of local camping where I don't need an anti-sway "highway" hitch. Wes ... In my case, I have no choice. My OEM hitch foot will not go high enough to clear the WD bars. The Foot was JUST high enough that it actually caught on the bar once while turning, which is how I discovered the issue. I have towed over 3000 miles with the current combo, and had no interference issue with the jack shaft. Doesn't mean it can't happen, I just know it hasn't so far. I'll try to remember this evening to pivot the head to it's max turning point and see if interference can, indeed, occur. If so, I'm not sure what I can do. I suspect that the top links on the hitch (strut bars) will bind before the head can rotate past that center point, but I won't know until I test at home. Should be easy enough to do while unhooked and tongue jack all the way down.
93Cobra2771 07/18/14 10:37am Travel Trailers
RE: First Time with ProPride

I wondered about this because from the pictures I've seen of the PP it looks as if the head is fairly rigid in regards to up and down movement because of the way it's attached to the yoke. We keep our camper on a seasonal site when we're not traveling. When I back in there's a dip at the edge of the road that causes both the nose of the camper and the back of the truck to dip down. The site also slopes gently upward towards the back and when unhooking the back of the camper is 8-10" (or maybe more, I haven't measured) above the receiver of the truck. If I'm understanding all of this, the way to make the stinger level with the unloaded height of the receiver so it slides out smoothly is to use the tongue jack and WD jacks? Not exactly. When you back in, and prior to putting the tongue jack down, you loosen the WD jacks until they are totally loose and not putting transferring any weight. Once that is done, THEN you use the tongue jack. I watch the receiver (where the stinger goes into the receiver on the truck) carefully as I'm jacking up. Once the stinger shifts up in the receiver, then the tongue is high enough and the truck is ready to pull out. In the scenario you mention, your WD bars will get even more loose as you raise the tongue. And that is a good thing. Once you pull the stinger out, don't touch the screw jacks and all will be good.
93Cobra2771 07/17/14 01:21pm Travel Trailers
RE: First Time with ProPride

Wayne, The whole hitch head assembly mounts into the ball receiver of the trailer tongue so the pivot/swivel that you mention is not an issue. In general The only thing I have found to be a slight pita after using our PP for the second season now is that when backing into a spot or even sometimes when pulling in and the truck is at sharp angle to the trailer the PP head will be swiveled to the side and the WD bar on one side can be in the way of letting the tongue jack down. Just a matter of jockeying back and forth until getting a little straighter line up. Tinbender I solved that issue by leaving the foot of my jack slightly below the WD bars, as opposed to cranking it all the way to the top. It will never be close to hitting the ground in my case.
93Cobra2771 07/17/14 07:56am Travel Trailers
RE: RV Wireless TPMS Systems - which one is preferred

These are far easier to take off than the non flow throughs were. Non flow throughs had a small wrench that accesses the back of the sensor. That must mean that they are easier to steal. :( I suspect that the cap-style with wrench would not "prevent" theft - just slow them down ...?? Not really - the set screw isn't very obvious, and it is allen head. With enough time, anything can be stolen. I've never worried about mine dissappearing, as they aren't well known by people.
93Cobra2771 07/17/14 07:53am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: RV Wireless TPMS Systems - which one is preferred

whats the battery life like on the flow thru's ? do the flow thrus use the same as the "cap" style (CR1632) ? I've had them on for one year without removal. So far so good. I'm not sure which batteries they use, but I'm sure TST would be happy to answer that question if it's not on their website. it sounds like most of you guys (w/ TT's) are only running the sensors on your TT & not on your puller too, i guess that stands to reason in that you've probably got OEM TPMS systems (some that may or may not report pressure i imagine). Correct, I have an OEM TPMS. our coach doesnt have a TPMS system and coaches / DP's don't have spares so the level of interest/awareness is a little different....i want to know the state of my Tire Pressure (before we leave) as well most coach owners want to monitor the status on the fly... including alerts or early warning of a potentially catastrophic problem. If I had one, I'd have TPMS on it. The difference between stopping and airing up every 100 miles vs a blowout would be worth it for me. I think the same apply to all TT, 5er & toad pullers....in that its potentially difficult to know if we have a flat on the item were pulling. Correct. I've had one tire have tread separation, and if it wasn't for the TPMS, I would never have know it was having an issue. Temp on that tire was 10 degrees higher than the rest of the tires.
93Cobra2771 07/17/14 07:51am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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