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 > Your search for posts made by '93Cobra2771' found 187 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Under Chassis Storage Boxes

You also have to be careful about overall width of the, IRRC. Some are wider than travel trailers and cause issue bolting into position.
93Cobra2771 02/27/15 10:30am Travel Trailers
RE: New garage for TT

Should have made it 60' deep, that way truck and TT can be parked at same time. :-D I wanted to, but simply didn't want to move so much dirt. :-(
93Cobra2771 02/26/15 10:55am Travel Trailers
RE: Ikk smell after traveling

One other thought - sometimes when traveling, the P traps under the sinks slosh out the water. This lets odors come right up through the sink. I've had this happen a time or two. Solved it by traveling with one of the roof vents open slightly. Works like a champ.
93Cobra2771 02/25/15 11:01am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

Great find! And yes, he will love the bags on the F150. They are awesome. Love mine.
93Cobra2771 02/23/15 07:32am Travel Trailers
RE: ReiccoTitan Power leveling System $1800 ebay

And here I can't seem to part with the 80 bucks for the Anderson Levelers.:B Boy, ain't that the truth. LOL
93Cobra2771 02/23/15 07:31am Travel Trailers
RE: ReiccoTitan Power leveling System $1800 ebay

Very nice setup, and the price is looking pretty good.
93Cobra2771 02/18/15 08:33am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

Trim that cover to fit. Basically it will take a rectangular cut. I used tin snips on mine and it worked perfectly. Excellent news on the batter box.
93Cobra2771 02/09/15 07:02am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

But the battery box won't be on the front. So it won't be exactly apples to apples. :-) BTW, make sure the air in the TT tires is up to the max. Cold weather affects air pressure.
93Cobra2771 02/06/15 08:29am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

Excellent to hear your experience. As far as using your current snap up brackets, disregard me - I'm nuts. As far as bending struts, there are a couple of ways: 1. Turning too sharp. 2. Allowing one or both of the strut bars to get loose. If they get loose, the head can start wobbling, That's bad. It can be a combination of both: Make too tight a turn, bend a strut. Then, since the strut is bent, it's a bit shorter, so the head is now loose. So you get increased wobbling on the head, which can bend the strut further, and even oval out the mounting ears for the strut bars on the head. My used Hensley had ovaled out holes. Doesn't affect it, though. Why? Because the struts are under compression. As long as I have the struts adjusted correctly, they never touch the backside of the mounting ears. I couldn't be happier with your report on your HA experience. One thing to keep in mind - part of your increased steering feel is because you pulled a BUNCH of weight off the tongue. Your front axle isn't as light now as it was. You definitely need to play with your screw jacks and get the weight transfer where you want it. The swiveling/bump you feel backing up and changing directions is perfectly normal. It isn't really the "Hensley bump" but it does illustrate what happens during the bump. If you are going down a hill, usually low speed, and the TV is slowing faster than the TT, the TT will push forward on the linkage and settle to one side or the other. The way to avoid this is to grab your brake controller and keep just a bit of brake on the trailer. And most people set the gain up enough so that the trailer is braking a bit harder than the truck. This keeps tension on the HA. When you go in reverse, the same thing happens. And if you turn opposite the side that it's settled on, it will jump over to the other side. So you'll feel it when it happens. When you are expecting it, it's not a problem. If not expecting it, it can startle you a bit. Anyhow, I highly suggest you get it all loaded up and then get some weights. Or at the very least, get it adjusted so you don't have too much front axle rise. I'm going to ballpark it and say that your front end rise, when hitch, shouldn't be more than an inch or so. You won't know until you grab a tape and get some measurements.
93Cobra2771 02/06/15 07:01am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

I agree with Barney - forgot to mention your battery box. Pretty confident it will hit. Valid point on using your own snap up brackets. Hensley does sell the same setup. That would save cost on new screw jack and mount.
93Cobra2771 02/05/15 06:16am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

Yes, I noticed the same thing. Looks like a replacement they had laying around or something.
93Cobra2771 02/04/15 11:42am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

I would discuss my findings with Hensley on the phone. They are very helpful. I'm no metal expert, so I can't comment on the quality of the weld on the screw jack. I believe I would go ahead and replace that screw jack, and keep the old one as a spare. ~$125 I believe. The mount doesn't bother me too much, but if I recall correctly they aren't too bad expensive. I'd definitely ask Hensley about it. As far as the cracked head, you need to get that fixed. There have been a few units that failed at that point. A good welding shop should be able to fix that up just fine. They should also add a few extra gussets for extra support. That part isn't a section that has to be in there perfect, as the spring bar bushing does the work. I'd take the bushing and the head and have them look it all over and add any reinforcement they deem necessary. I imagine the welding work would be in the $100 range, give or take. Hopefully they can get to everything without having to disassemble the head, but if not, it is what it is. As it sits right now, DO NOT USE IT. It appears the previous owners didn't exactly take care of it. The screw jack wear is from lack of lubrication. The crack in the head is likely from allowing the strut bars to get loose. When that happens, bad stuff goes on.
93Cobra2771 02/04/15 06:46am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

So the new parts should be coming within the next few days, and I will start the tare down process, and then get ready for reassembly. I have been looking at the way the HA works and I wonder if the jacks will be swinging into my battery box and my propane tanks. I will post some pictures, and most likely will be taking them all off for the test, with just a battery for the emergency break system. We'll see. This will be my weekend plans. Thanks, Joe Zeppe Joe, You MAY have to relocate your tanks slightly forward from their current position. Very easily done, as the base the tanks sit on is simply located with self tapping screws. This is only if the mounting points for the screw jacks interfere with the base the tanks sit on. The jacks WILL not hit either, assuming you can mount them to the frame without any interference. They are on an angle and pushed out from the frame slightly. Basically, if you can mount them correctly, there is no chance of contact unless you have a very non standard setup. Same for the battery box, unless you have a non standard setup on it. You'll be surprised how much clearance you have. Most I've seen was to notch the propane tank covers slightly to clear the jack mount. Other than that, golden.
93Cobra2771 02/03/15 08:47am Travel Trailers
RE: Max height of ProPride 3P WD towers

X2
93Cobra2771 01/29/15 06:52am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

I remember that post, and added a length of chain for just that purpose should it happen on the road. :-) Oh, and once you get it painted up all pretty and such, a medium sized grill cover works great to keep it looking pretty...
93Cobra2771 01/28/15 10:21am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

Very common issues. The bushings are a wear item. I have also seen them broken. Carefully inspect all welds, especially around the heard area for any cracking or distorting. Good score on having two stingers. The 4" will likely be the one you'll need. The spring bars are Reese round bars, IIRC. You can likely source some 1400# versions via craigslist locally. The bearings are supposed to be lifetime. Some break them down and repack, some don't. I popped the caps and inspected for any water intrusion, and then replaced caps. There is an "emergency kit" or something like that from Hensley that has all the consumables of grease fittings, pins, etc. I would also suggest a replacement ubolt kit for one side (just in case). Also, plan on an extra set of grease fittings. They are a wear item as well. Check the strut bars and screw jacks for straightness. The manual is available online if you didn't get one with the hitch. The PP vs HA functionality is pretty much identical. Biggest advantage for the PP is the adjustable stinger, IMO. Out of curiosity, how much did you score the HA for?
93Cobra2771 01/28/15 06:52am Travel Trailers
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

You say you had to raise the rear of the truck about 3 inches to set the bars. It is normal to lift the rear to relieve enough weight/pressure to snap up the brackets. If doing that did bring the front of the truck back to unhitched height and the rear down 3/4 inch it sounds like you are close. 3 links loose sounds like 5 or 6 under load which is good too. Correct, the rig sits level, and handles well, but it rides rougher this way though. I was wondering if I should have 1400lb bars...? Joe Zeppe I'll add this point as well with regards to HA and the PP vs Reese Dual Cam. Not only does light tongue weight not affect them, but CHANGING tongue weight doesn't matter compared to the dual cam. The dual cam is dependent on a consistant tongue weight. The cams sit in saddles, and more or less tongue or bed weight affects the setup on the DC. To me, dry camping would be the most difficult situation for a DC, as you are shifting water around from fresh to black/grey tanks. That and generator/wood hanging off back of trailer makes a difference too. Conceivably, you would need to adjust the DC for going to the CG, and then before you leave. Not a huge deal, but a PITA to do that every single time. After looking at what you learned about tongue weight, there are one or two options for you, IMO. 1. Load everything, and I mean everything you can in the front of the trailer. 2. Put generator in bed of truck instead of rack. 3. Or put wood in bed instead of rack. 4. Remove rack completely. 5. Crank the sway bars down tighter. Basically, you've got to get some of the weight from behind your tt axle to on or in front of. My trailer has the fresh water tank directly over axles, so it doesn't affect tongue weight as much. I suppose as you use freshwater your wastewater tanks are further forward, so it helps your tongue weight. So, it looks like you have some decisions to make. FYI, if you search craigslist, you WILL find a used PP or HA. I have found no less than three in my local area in the past three years. They may look crusty on the outside, but they are well known for crappy paint jobs. Don't pay any more than $800 range for used. I have paid $250 for one, and $450 for another used. Friend of mine paid $800 for one with lots of extras. They are very easy to recondition, as it basically takes a coat of paint. Biggest thing to watch for is bent screw jacks or bent struts. Either of those are basically $100 each. At this point, after hearing how your camper is used, I recommend going with the HA or PP. Your worry about sway will be solved after your first drive. You will be amazed at the difference.
93Cobra2771 01/26/15 06:50am Travel Trailers
RE: Metal valve stems TST tire pressure

To avoid rubbing, take some vacuum line or fuel line. Split it and put over the valve stem. Keeps the stem from flexing while going down the road. Has worked great for over 2000 miles. Metal stems wouldn't work on mine due to the diameter of the nut for the stems. They didn't machine the relief big enough on the rims. I got metal core stems, but pull in place like a standard valve stem. They don't bolt in place. I've seen that mod done and it seems to work. Stopping the flex is the key; my sensors would actually leave marks on the wheels with the rubber stems from the back and forth motion. Some folks get away with the rubber stems for a long time, some don't. I'm reasonably sure I was the one who posted the mod up, with pics. Have around 3000 miles/two years on them so far with no issues.
93Cobra2771 01/23/15 07:22am Travel Trailers
RE: Metal valve stems TST tire pressure

Metal stems wouldn't work on mine due to the diameter of the nut for the stems. They didn't machine the relief big enough on the rims. Did you look at the stems with the nuts on the inside? Stems At the time, I didn't know there was such an animal. It was a small local tire shop and they didn't have anything like that either.
93Cobra2771 01/23/15 07:21am Travel Trailers
RE: What size carport cover do you have?

We planning a 24x50, maybe 28x56. It will fit on the end of our house. I want to be able to park my pickup with it (hooked up or not). On the house side, we are planning a narrow deck along the end of the house so we can load/unload easily. We already have 30A power connection there. If I only wanted to cover just the TT, I would go alittle longer than the trailer and wide enough for doors to open and slide to be out. I would have done the full length to fit truck and trailer hooked up - however, the lay of the land would have caused me to have to move a WHOLE bunch of dirt to make that happen. As it was, I had to cut down 3' in one corner for my 20x40 to fit.
93Cobra2771 01/23/15 07:18am Travel Trailers
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