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 > Your search for posts made by '93Cobra2771' found 244 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Aerodynamics Matter !!

It has been shown that the Vnose trailers are actually WORSE than a flat nose camper for mpg. Why? Because of increased frontal area. They are also inherently less stable while towing due to the turbulance the vnose creates. And cross winds make it even worse, again due to increase frontal area. What a vnose does give you, though, is 3' of extra room over the tongue that a standard TT doesn't have. Which is nothing to sneeze at. Ideally, a TT with a nicely rounded front cap, some side skirts, moon disk hubcaps, and some type of boat tail would be my dream. A hard sided popup works really well due to low profile, but I'm not willing to give up all you have to give up to do that. :-) One study I read about V-nose was that it increased turbulence down the sides of the trailer, which slightly increased drag. That was part of their theory about it yielding worse fuel mileage. The other thing I have wondered about with a V-nose is that it seems I often have travel days where I am pushing a frontal quartering wind. I wondered if a V-nose would then be presenting a "straight on flat surface" because of it's angle relative to the wind of that day. Pure speculation on my part. Years ago, I bought a new Wells Cargo trailer that was our race trailer for the motorcycles. At the time, WC offered an optional fiberglass bubble nose they claimed was more aero. Their claim was "up to 10% better fuel mileage". It was something like $250 for it, and when I penciled it out, if it really would have got me the claimed 10%, it was going to be a fairly big number of miles just to pay back it's option cost. I passed on it. Yep, when you put pencil to paper, you generally have to travel a LOT of miles to make the expensive mods worth their while. The free or low cost mods are the ones that make more sense to do. As I mentioned earlier, the easiest way to save mpg is to learn to drive it. Case in point. I make a regular trip to myrtle beach once a year. If I really pay attention to my driving, and run 55-60mph, I can make that 500 mile trip with just over 11mpg. If I make the same trip staying right at 65mph, my mpg drops to just under 10mpg. It's all about how quickly I want to get the vacation started. That 5mph will get me there 30-45min earlier. :-)
93Cobra2771 02/05/16 08:50am Travel Trailers
RE: Aerodynamics Matter !!

It has been shown that the Vnose trailers are actually WORSE than a flat nose camper for mpg. Why? Because of increased frontal area. They are also inherently less stable while towing due to the turbulance the vnose creates. And cross winds make it even worse, again due to increase frontal area. What a vnose does give you, though, is 3' of extra room over the tongue that a standard TT doesn't have. Which is nothing to sneeze at. Ideally, a TT with a nicely rounded front cap, some side skirts, moon disk hubcaps, and some type of boat tail would be my dream. A hard sided popup works really well due to low profile, but I'm not willing to give up all you have to give up to do that. :-)
93Cobra2771 02/05/16 07:19am Travel Trailers
RE: Aerodynamics Matter !!

There's nothing wrong with trying to improve current MPG. Of course towing and MPG are polar opposites. Consider this: If you get 10mpg, and manage a 1 mpg improvement, you just increased your MPG by 10%. At $2.00/gallon you just saved yourself $10 over 500 miles. Oh, and one other thing - a saying on the ecomodder forum I linked earlier "the single biggest improvement to mpg is to fix the loose nut behind the wheel". In other words, learn how to maximize what you have with your driving style. I have personally picked up 1.5mpg by simply changing my driving habits while towing. And this is verified on a route I regularly take to our favorite campground. Improvements can be obtained. Just a matter of whether it is worth your time or money to do so. Gas at $2.00/gallon? May not be worth the work. Gas at $5.00/gallon? May well be worth it. It's all relative. YMMV. :D
93Cobra2771 02/04/16 10:43am Travel Trailers
RE: Aerodynamics Matter !!

The idea for the fairings underneath is to keep the air from the "dirty" aerodynamics of the undercarriage. A trailer with an enclosed underbelly is pretty darn clean, except for the axle area. And our axle area is a couple of tubes. However, from what I understand, the more air that can kept on top of the vehicle, the better. And crosswind aero is also very important, as crosswinds DO affect mpg. If I were to start with anything, it would be some type of rear fairing setup, similar to what the big rigs are running. At one point, I had grandiose plans of a rear boat tail/fairing setup that would also double as a "carport" for bicycle when camping. I think something like that could be designed with some good lightweight materials, much like the ecomodder thread. I bet one of the big rig boat tails could be adapted to a square backed TT pretty easily, as the heights are pretty similar. Then some skirting down the sides and such. Might net a couple miles per gallon. Payback would take a while, of course, but would be a fun experiment. And would likely be pretty ugly. But sure would be nice to pop it out and have some weather proof storage while camping.
93Cobra2771 02/04/16 08:39am Travel Trailers
RE: Aerodynamics Matter !!

To the OP: On www.ecomodder.com Check this thread out: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aero-rv-custom-boat-tail-95-ford-e-18151.html There is an an aerodynamics thread, with a person who started working on aero on a class C. Specifically, he was working on a boat tail, belly pans, etc. Haven't looked at the thread in quite a while, but it was a good read. It also included some good aero links, one in particular regarding having rounded lead edges vs 90° corners like most campers have now. Rounded was much better, which explains airstream's claims of better gas mileage and towing stability. This should hopefully help you out a bit in your quest.
93Cobra2771 02/04/16 06:36am Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for advice on length

Get the longer one now. Will save you from having to upgrade in the future. I do recommend a premium hitch. A standard hitch with friction sway bars isn't going to cut it. Hensley Arrow or Propride Reese Dual Cam Equalizer My preference is toward the HA or PP. Pulling performance with those two hitches is a world apart from others. Yes, it is pricey. However, if you watch your local craigslist carefully you might score a great deal (I've found three in the last three years within 50 miles of my middle of nowhere location). $800 is an average used price on them, and anything less is a great deal. I have $250 in one, and $450 in another. A friend has $800 in the third. With the amount of miles you are going to be traveling, I HIGHLY recommend a premium hitch. Especially on the longer trailer. You will be glad you did.
93Cobra2771 01/26/16 08:19am Travel Trailers
RE: Any other ideas while I have roof off?

Insulation would be my priority. Due to the small amount of area, paying someone to come in and spray foam would be ideal. The ductwork is horribly insulated as well, so it would be awesome to get it sealed up nicely. If you've ever considered any LED strip lighting inside, now would be the time to run the wires for it. And definitely run wiring for any outside LED under awning and such. Might even be a good time to sketch out a wiring diagram of what is in there, just so you will know if needed, in the future. Did I mention insulation? :-)
93Cobra2771 01/26/16 07:26am Travel Trailers
RE: Tips on replacing vial trim around doors and compartments

Good to know and thanks for the update.
93Cobra2771 01/26/16 06:35am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: replacing rubber roof with alum

At one time, there was a place local to me that did just that - aluminum roof on an rv. Never saw one done in person, though.
93Cobra2771 01/22/16 08:37am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: where to measure to determine if trailer is level

I would actually verify that fridge is level when floor is level. If you get that verified, then all you have to worry about is the floor level. I open the door and place small torpedo level just inside the door. Works pretty well. Just recently decided to start using my front storage compartment floor. Same floor, and works pretty well too. Except when I don't have a clear spot to put the level on. Which is pretty much always. I've been known to use the torpedo level on the tongue for front to back level, and seems pretty accurate. But side to side level I generally open the door to check. In other words, try a bunch of different methods and see what works for you.
93Cobra2771 01/19/16 10:41am Travel Trailers
RE: New trailer wheel bearings

Good choice. A couple of my factory bearing were WAY dryer than they should have been.
93Cobra2771 01/18/16 08:39am Travel Trailers
RE: 13.5 or 15 K BTU AC

15k would be my choice. My 13.5k in the unit in my signature (26' box) does OK (one 16' slide, enclosed underbelly) and will keep temps in the 75° range here in the south with normal in and outs from the kids and such. Would love to make use of the extra capacity of the the 15k unit.
93Cobra2771 01/05/16 10:20am Travel Trailers
RE: Best Design Trailer for Half-Ton

Show me one person who has had their insurance canceled due to overweight. Show me one person who has had their warranty terminated because of weight. And I don't mean someone who hooked up to a semi truck trailer. I have seen half tons that I KNOW are overweight pulling fivers. Plenty of them on the road. And I'd be willing to bet they still have their insurance. And yes, the OP is going to be limited by weight on his current truck. I have no personal experience with the ram, but do have experience with an f150 and a 30' TT. Over 8000 miles worth, to be exact. Although I do have a Hensley Arrow now, most of those miles were with a Reese Dual Cam. Upgraded to the HA due to finding a smoking deal on one. Is a 30' TT too big for a half ton? Not with the right hitch/receiver and proper setup. My suggestion is to find ram owners pulling weight that you are looking at pulling and see how they feel about their setup. One other thing - it will likely be a bit difficult to find a 30' TT with two slides. They are a bit on the rare side. Two slides will generally hit the 32' and up range. Which is a whole different ball game when it comes to pulling. Your results may vary, good luck with your search. Study up, be informed, and then make the best decision you can make for your application.
93Cobra2771 01/05/16 07:03am Travel Trailers
RE: Solar tube skylight

There are rv specific dome skylights (circular) out there now, several OEMs have been installing them for a few years. I'd go with RV specific version as it will have the inside trim and such and actually fit in pretty well with other decor. Hardest part will be determining what/where to cut, as there is likely a bunch of wiring run through the rafters. Might try pulling a vent out and seeing what you can see in the ceiling.
93Cobra2771 12/29/15 09:11am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: How I reseal our RV windows

What kind of little trim tool is that that you used to break the original seal? Looks kinda handy. Got a link?
93Cobra2771 12/22/15 12:14pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Worn hitch receiver/shank

Food for thought - when you have the spring bars engaged, the shank will be pushed UP in the receiver on the ball end, and DOWN on the shank on the truck end. You will have practically zero up and down movement of the shank in the receiver when your spring bars are engaged. However, the amount of pivot involved due to the slop does indeed affect your initial spring bar adjustment. If you can't add any more washers to the head to get more tilt, then weld a bead on top of the ball end of the shank, and on the bottom of the truck end of the shank. This will give you more initial downward tilt on the shank (same net effect of adding washers to the hitch head). I used some metal shims zip tied to my shank for a while, then finally had the weld beads added. Shouldn't cost more than $10 to have a shop throw weld beads on there. Or less if you have a buddy with a good 220v stick welder.
93Cobra2771 12/22/15 10:48am Travel Trailers
RE: Worn hitch receiver/shank

It isn't something that has worn in, they come like that new. There have been a few posts in the past that address the issue. My understanding is that the receiver is 54mm and the shank is 2". Provides for a loose fit. I fixed the issue by welding a bead across the shank at the front and back, then grinding down the welds till the fit was snug. You'll also find you'll need side welds as well. The hole being elongated is from using a pin with a bent shank on one end. If you use a pin with a straight shank on both sides (more expensive to make I'm sure) the hole won't elongate. Learned that lesson the hard way myself. :-(
93Cobra2771 12/22/15 09:11am Travel Trailers
RE: Pro Pride/Hensley, what do you do with the stinger

I have a crew cab, usually raise the back seat up and put it under there. Sometimes I will leave it in the receiver on the truck, but I have the truck backed up close enough to the TT that someone won't bust their shin on it.
93Cobra2771 12/11/15 06:09am Travel Trailers
RE: Taming a Noisy Coleman Mach 8 Heat Pump

Would have been neat to get before and after decibel readings. FYI, there are apps for smartphones that work decently for that. Cool project. Pun intended.
93Cobra2771 12/07/15 08:22am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Traveling w Bicycles

I have a dinette - mounted quick release skewers to a 2x4 which mounts to seat on dinette. Bikes stay inside camper and out of the weather while traveling. Has worked great for a number of years.
93Cobra2771 12/04/15 01:02pm Fifth-Wheels
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