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 > Your search for posts made by 'Clay L' found 139 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Losing fresh water on right turns

Ah, I should have said that the overflow hose is located INSIDE the tank, with just an inch or two exposed at the bottom of the tank. The RV shop said we could put a vent on top of the tank--except they can't get at the top without major surgery. That is surprising. All of the many gas Winnebago's I have seen and the ones being built on several factory tours have a fitting spin welded to the top of the tank. The overflow tube connects to that fitting and goes down below the bottom of the compartment so the overflow goes on the ground. Usually there is a plastic insert with small holes that keeps bugs out of the tube. Nothing protrudes into the tank. On mine when I complained about the water loss on turns, the factory added a loop that went about six inches above the top of the tank. That stopped the loss.
Clay L 08/05/17 10:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: House Batteries

LR gets its voltage from a wire connected to the RUN terminal on the ignition switch. I have the Workhorse chassis and the dash that raises up. There is a fuse panel in the far back drivers side under the dash. The top row far right fuse is labeled "Step Alarm" - LR and several other wires connect to that fuse. The back up camera and the signal lead that causes the step to retract are a couple of the other wires connected to that point.
Clay L 07/25/17 11:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Carpet Replacement in MH

Regarding winter, yes after we stopped snow birding it went through a CO winter with temps down to -20 and the summer before went through one summer with temps in the 100s. No problems.
Clay L 07/25/17 07:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Carpet Replacement in MH

Our flooring project: Sightseer 35N. I called the factory about what would be needed if I installed laminate flooring and Winnebago advised me that I needed to replace the existing shoes under the slides. The existing ones are made of high density polyethylene. I made an appointment for a couple of months later and stopped by the factory on our way from NH to CO. When I got to the factory, they made up the new shoes with carpet on them. The cost for them was going to be about $150. The shoes were 1 X 6 s about 3 feet long with an angle cut on one side and covered (glued on) with the material that is used to cover the floors of the service bay. There were six of them as I recall. Then when they were supposed to install them they came out and said they were afraid that the material would create too much friction running on the existing carpet and the slides would not function properly. I did not want to remove the carpet until I got to my sister in law's place where I intended to install the laminate flooring, so I did not have them install the shoes and decided to rethink the whole thing. I ended up deciding that I was going to install the flooring and see what would happen. I really didn’t think the existing shoes would be any worse than the carpet type. It seemed to me that the carpet type could catch dust and small rocks as easily as the old smooth ones. We used Armstrong's best grade of laminate. We picked it based on some tests that Consumer Reports did that showed it had better wear and scratch resistance than Pergo. It's 3/8 inch thick. We were surprised to find that a Carpet Time store had much better prices on the best grade than Home Depot or Lowes had on the middle grade which is all Lowes and Home Depot carried. The best grades were special order. We did the installation of our flooring ourselves. We couldn't find an installer willing to do the job. It took us about ten day’s altogether (we only worked about 4 hours a day though). It wasn't terribly difficult but did require a lot of cutting and trimming because of all of the corners. There were some challenges involving the front of the slides, around the stairs, underneath the dinette, the transition piece between the driver’s area carpet and the laminate, and the trim piece along the back wall. Before we did the installation we did a test by removing a square of carpet and making sure the slides would ride over a piece of T molding, laminate and underlayment. Some people try to cut the carpet back under the slide, but we cut the carpet in front of the slides leaving enough carpet to be stapled down. I was afraid the slides would catch the carpet when the slide went back out. Baseboard molding covers it so it doesn't show. If you do the job yourself I would recommend a few things to have: 1) Table saw, 2) Chop saw, 3) Good saber saw, 4) Rotozip tool, 5) Air brad nailer, 6) Air stapler, 7) Utility knife and sharp hook blades, 8) Screwdriver type staple puller There were two grades of the foam underlayment available. We used the best grade - more expensive but thicker and provides a moisture barrier. We also used a special waterproof joint glue in areas that are prone to getting wet - like in front of the sink, refrigerator, and around the stairwell. (This is used to glue the joints so spilled water can't get in the joints - not to glue the flooring to the subfloor). We also used silicon caulk to fill the 1/4 gap at the edges in those areas. The caulk and waterproof glue are both recommended in the instructions from Armstrong. Regarding the project; we are extremely happy with the results. It is very easy to clean and it looks good. As far as the slides coming in goes, we have had one problem. The first few times we operated the slides everything was fine. Then we had a scratch show up in front of the dinette. The next time we brought the slide in we put a thin piece of plastic (flexible cutting board) down at that point. When the slide went back out the plastic was badly scratched and it left two paper clips on the plastic. Apparently Damncat who loves to steal and play with them had batted them under the slide before we got the baseboard fixed to the front of the slide in that area. We added door sweep strips behind the baseboard trim in front of the slides to keep pebbles and paper clips from getting under the slide shoes. Since then we have had no more scratches. We do vacuum carefully before we operate the slides. The good news is that the scratch is not noticeable and if you don’t know it’s there I don’t believe you will see it.
Clay L 07/24/17 02:20pm General RVing Issues
RE: Stay-a-While cracked

I cut a piece from a 1X4 that was a slight press fit under the Stay a While T. I used some silicon adhesive underneath make sure it didn't vibrate out. Lasted about 11 years with no problem. http://i.imgur.com/LColY7hl.jpg
Clay L 07/23/17 11:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Installing linoleum in camper 04 Adventure

Clay L Sounds like a good idea. I'll look at doing this. Not sure how much it goes under the slide. Yes, this slid comes up as it starts in. I'm sure it was installed before the slide. How about under the table which extends past the slide edge. Also the couch. Don't know about that - my dinette/table and couch were on the slide. It Winnebago says the slide can be lifted up, they told me two men could lift it up enough to put blocks under it to hold it while they worked under it. They use airbags rather than blocks though.
Clay L 07/08/17 01:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Installing linoleum in camper 04 Adventure

I didn't remove it under the slide. I cut the carpet leaving just enough to staple it down securely and hid it with baseboard attached to the slide. If you don't want to do that, check with Winnebago. Some slides (Kwikee brand I know) can be extended part way and then lifted up a few inches.
Clay L 07/07/17 01:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A air conditioner

Because of the weight of the AC I would think some additional roof joists would be needed in the area. If the area around the vent was not intended for the weight you might have some real problems.
Clay L 07/06/17 11:43am Beginning RVing
RE: Water pump chattering

If it is an older Shurflo pump (2088 422 144) there is an adjustment screw that controls rapid cycling. I can send you the service manual with the adjustment proceedure. Please advise if you want it.
Clay L 07/05/17 01:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What brand of toilet paper can I use in my TT?

Any kind you want. It does not have to say septic safe. There are many posts showing the dissolving times and most brands dissolve in less than a minute or so. Many of us full timers use a quite a bit of water when we flush and don't use chemicals either. We full timed for 11 years, used whatever toilet paper we (actually wife) liked and never had a problem.
Clay L 07/04/17 11:20am Beginning RVing
RE: Did you ever love your home...but sold it to fulltime

We had a 4000 square foot home on 3 acres with a 20 X 40 in-ground pool in NH. Average of about 100 inches per year of snow and a 140 foot long driveway. Even with a 40 inch cut snowblower on a garden tractor and a 5 horsepower leaf vacuum/chopper that blew the chopped up leaves into a trailer, we knew there was no way we would be able to maintain the house and grounds as we got older. In addition the taxes on the house the last year we owned it were over $10,000. We sold it and never really looked back even though we loved the home.
Clay L 07/01/17 01:47pm Full-time RVing
RE: battery disconnect switch

There are many choices. Marine stores are good places to get one and maybe some advice on which one.
Clay L 06/24/17 11:20am Tech Issues
RE: A/C and Arizona Heat Wave

RV is at my house. I am not sure what gauge the wire is running to the outlet, or the the breaker on the outside wall from the house. It was already here and setup for an RV. There is a dedicated 30A cb for the RV outlet. I didn't feel like opening the panel to inspect the wire gauge. It is about 150' (min) from the house to the breaker box, and another 75' to the socket to plug into. I suspect a below minimum wire size as the conduit to the plug is 1/2" metallic. I have a 120 foot run and I used 8 gauge wire.It works well. Some people will say that smaller gauges are rated for higher currents, but they don't realize that the voltage drop is a factor. Not just the ability of the wire to carry a given current. Both have to be taken into account. My wire size calculator says for 150 feet of 8 Gauge wire with a 30 amp draw there will be a 3.5% volt drop and there will about 15 1/2 volts available at the RV. Since you have an additional 75 feet with an unknown wire size. 8 Gauge may not be adequate.
Clay L 06/21/17 02:15pm Tech Issues
RE: get satellite signal in

There are several ways to do it. In past years Winegard recommended the diagram below. Making the connections the way Winegard recommends does not require adding any coax connectors to the wall plate. Note that this assumes your front TV is connected to the coax connector on the front of the wall plate. If yours isn't, there should be a splitter in the line labeled "To second TV" that will send the signal to both the front and rear TVs (if you have two TVs). What Winegard calls a "power supply" below is the wall plate with the antenna booster switch and LED showing when the amplifier is on. If you still want to be able to use the external cable in for both cable TV and the external dish just add an A/B switch to switch the incoming coax from the sat receiver "sat input" to the sat receiver "TV input". If your receiver doesn't have a coax output (and most new ones don't) and you still want to use the batwing antenna you will need to use an A/B switch to switch the signal between the receiver and the antenna out connection on the wall plate. One thing not shown in the diagram is using the RCA type connections or the better quality "component" type output or the HDMI (best) output between the sat receiver and the TV. That will yield a much better picture with no interference from any local channels. You have to select a "video in" with your TV menu instead of using channel 3 (for example). Some newer satellite receivers don't have a coax output so you may have to use HDMI or component connections. If you have a video distribution box that will have to be taken into account. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/ClayL/Winegardsathookup.jpg
Clay L 06/19/17 02:12pm Technology Corner
RE: balanced shower

Delta makes temperature controlled shower faucets. I had them in my last house. Not cheap - $250 or so. See HERE This is what they say about them. "The long and short of it: This 17 Series Dual Temperature and Pressure Shower Control is a fully functioning Shower Faucet without the showerhead. It features a Large Handle to control the Shower (on/off) along with a smaller Handle used to set the temperature. You can set the temperature however you prefer and then just leave that smaller handle in place. Every time you take a shower you will simply turn it on with the large handle and the water come out exactly at your preferred level of warmth! This fixture also includes the required Rough-in Valve which installs in the wall. This item can work with any showerhead or handheld shower when plumbed correctly in the wall. It mixes the water from your hot and cold water lines in the wall and sends out a stream of warm water to whatever shower spray you choose."
Clay L 06/19/17 02:04pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: GREY WATER HOLDING TANK TREATMENT

A couple of people mentioned the air admittance valve. It is on a stub on the sewer side of the the sink trap. It unscrews - usually by hand. If the flap in the valve fails to seal it will allow tank odor to escape under the sink. Replacements can be found in most hardware stores. No amount or kind of tank chemicals will solve the problem.
Clay L 06/12/17 10:55am Tech Issues
RE: Which Sealant for Winnie Roof

Go HERE and you can download the proper adhesive/sealants info for your motor home plus a lot of other stuff like wiring and plumbing diagrams. You can even download a complete parts list for your rig. As I recall you need your Winnebago ID number for that. It can found on the placard on the wall next to the drivers seat.
Clay L 06/12/17 10:10am General RVing Issues
RE: Water shut-off issue

If it is a Shurflo pump it should have a adjustment screw on the end that can be turned no more than one turn CW to keep the pump from surging - they call it "cycling" when a faucet not opened much. Maybe as you close the faucet you getting the cycling. If that is the pump you have you can download the service manual with pictures and instructions HERE. Go to the bottom right of the 3rd page and look at "Switch Shut Off"
Clay L 06/10/17 11:29am Tech Issues
RE: Salelite Dish won't work in 5th wheel

Since it worked before maybe the wall plate with the button that switches the batwing roof antenna on has been pushed. Besides applying power to the antenna amplifier it also acts as an A/B switch between cable and on the air stations. Depending on how it is wired it could cause the problem with sat input.
Clay L 06/10/17 11:11am Technology Corner
RE: we are no longer full timers

We made it 11 years and one year of snowbirding. We bought a house in Western CO and are now settled in here. Like you we have absolutely no regrets and loved the lifestyle but age, health, and sort of having done it all caught up to us. Do we ever miss it? Sure, sometimes, but still we made the change at the right time for us.
Clay L 06/08/17 03:07pm Full-time RVing
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