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 > Your search for posts made by 'Clay L' found 458 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Carpet replacement

This is long but it is what we did. The carpet under the slide info is several paragraphs down. We planned to cover the doghouse with a marine grade vinyl but didn't get it done. I called the factory about what would be needed if I installed laminate flooring and Winnebago advised me that I needed to replace the existing shoes under the slides. The existing ones are made of high density polyethylene. I made an appointment for a couple of months later and stopped by the factory on our way from NH to CO. When I got to the factory, they made up the new shoes with carpet on them. The cost for them was going to be about $150. The shoes were 1 X 6 s about 3 feet long with an angle cut on one side and covered (glued on) with the material that is used to cover the floors of the service bay. There were six of them as I recall. Then when they were supposed to install them they came out and said they were afraid that the material would create too much friction running on the existing carpet and the slides would not function properly. I did not want to remove the carpet until I got to my sister in law's place where I intended to install the Pergo, so I did not have them install the shoes and decided to rethink the whole thing. I ended up deciding that I was going to install the flooring and see what would happen. I really didn’t think the existing shoes would be any worse than the carpet type. It seemed to me that the carpet type could catch dust and small rocks as easily as the old smooth ones. We used Armstrong's best grade of laminate. We picked it based on some tests that Consumer Reports did that showed it had better wear and scratch resistance than Pergo. It's 3/8 inch thick. We were surprised to find that a Carpet Time store had much better prices on the best grade than Home Depot or Lowes had on the middle grade which is all Lowes and Home Depot carried. The best grades were special order. We did the installation of our flooring ourselves. We couldn't find an installer willing to do the job. It took us about ten day’s altogether (we only worked about 4 hours a day though). It wasn't terribly difficult but did require a lot of cutting and trimming because of all of the corners. There were some challenges involving the front of the slides, around the stairs, underneath the dinette, the transition piece between the driver’s area carpet and the laminate, and the trim piece along the back wall. Before we did the installation we did a test by removing a square of carpet and making sure the slides would ride over a piece of T molding, laminate and underlayment. Some people try to cut the carpet back under the slide, but we cut the carpet in front of the slides leaving enough carpet to be stapled down. I was afraid the slides would catch the carpet when the slide went back out. A Tee molding covers it so it doesn't show. Also on my rig there is a transition from plywood to steel flooring under the carpet in the front - behind the captains chairs where the steel cabin cage begins. We did not remove the carpet in the cabin area. It is best to not put the laminate in the steel floor area because there is a small difference in height and the transition could be rough to handle. If you do the job yourself I would recommend a few things to have: 1) Table saw, 2) Chop saw, 3) Good saber saw, 4) Rotozip tool, 5) Air brad nailer, 6) Air stapler, 7) Utility knife and sharp hook blades. 8 ) staple puller. There were two grades of the foam underlayment available. We used the best grade - more expensive but thicker and provides a moisture barrier. We also used a special waterproof joint glue in areas that are prone to getting wet - like in front of the sink, refrigerator, and around the stairwell. (This is used to glue the joints so spilled water can't get in the joints - not to glue the flooring to the subfloor). We also used silicon caulk to fill the 1/4 gap at the edges in those areas. The caulk and waterproof glue are both recommended in the instructions from Armstrong. The challenge areas mentioned above might deserve more explanation if you actually decide to go ahead with the project. Regarding the project; we are extremely happy with the results. It is very easy to clean and it looks good. As far as the slides coming in goes, we have had one problem. The first few times we operated the slides everything was fine. Then we had a scratch show up in front of the dinette. The next time we brought the slide in we put a thin piece of plastic (flexible cutting board) down at that point. When the slide went back out the plastic was badly scratched and it left two paper clips on the plastic. Apparently our cat who loves to steal and play with them had batted them under the slide before we got the quarter round fixed to the front of the slide in that area. Since then we have had no more scratches. We do vacuum carefully before we operate the slides. The good news is that the scratch is not noticeable and if you don’t know it’s there I don’t believe you will see it. We used oak 2 1/2 inch baseboard flat molding that I got at Home Depot. It can be attached on the edge of the bed and bradded to the bed. I also got self adhesive door sweep strips that are attached to the rear of the flat trim. It is a rubber strip with a stiff plastic strip along the top. I used the flat trim and door sweep on the slides and around the base of the bed.
Clay L 07/29/14 11:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Thermal cut off fuse

If it's really a diode it needs to be tested as a diode. Even if it's good it will read open circuit in one direction, and depending on the meter and setting, could read open circuit in both directions. Having said that, I've personally never heard before of a diode being used as a thermal fuse. It is not a diode. The case looks like a diode case though. Inside is a metal link that melts at a specified temperature.
Clay L 07/28/14 11:24am Tech Issues
RE: tire valve extension adventures

I had problems with them coming loose also, so I replaced all my extensions with solid one piece long valves from Borg. Our tire shop carries them, check yours. Stopped the leaking and extender coming loose problem completely. Dave Me too. Very easy to check and add air. Look for DuallyValves at the site above.
Clay L 07/28/14 11:16am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing my microwave....

I have replaced two microwaves with convection types, one in my last motor home and one in my present unit. Unless the one you get is designed for a built in installation and exhausts out of the front, or your current installation has a way of exhausting through the wall I would highly recommend getting the "build-in kit" for whatever brand microwave/convection you get. In convection mode, convection micros get much hotter than the standard ones. When it was first installed, the temp behind mine got up to 200 degrees F after 45 minutes in convection mode. I did not get the build-in kit for my first installation and went through a lot of hassle getting the temp behind the unit down to a reasonable level. I ended up adding a grill above the microwave and an exhaust fan blowing air through the side of the motor home. This involved a lot of work and cutting through the side of the motor home. The second time I got the kit and the job was much easier. There was additional sheet metal in the kit that formed ducts to move air in from the front and back out the front. It also came with decorative grills that make the installation look like it came from the factory with the unit already in place. Note that there are some minimum clearances in back and on the sides that must be met. You should make sure the convection micro you buy is small enough to allow for the proper clearances.
Clay L 07/27/14 10:27am Tech Issues
RE: coil-it for water hose

The product is "Coil N Wrap". See HERE
Clay L 07/27/14 10:10am General RVing Issues
RE: sewer hook ups

We are going to stay in a RV park in Colorado this fall. This will be our very first stay in a park. Our new camper came with a sewer hose. Im assuming all the conections are standard and it will fit. Would it be wise to get a longer one as I dont know how far I may need to go to hook up. Sorry for the stupid questions, but its our first time. Thanks for any help or pointers!!! Lee Where will you be in CO ?
Clay L 07/27/14 09:59am Beginning RVing
RE: deionized water versus distilled water

Deionized water is no better than distilled water for use in batteries. It can be produced by ion exchange resin cartridges or reverse osmosis according to Wikipedia. Tap water can shorten the life of batteries according to the battery manufacturers, so using distilled, DI or OR water in batteries is a good idea as far as I am concerned. I get distilled water for my CPAP humidifier and batteries at Walmart for less than $1 per gallon. RO/DI water has been higher when I looked at the prices.
Clay L 07/26/14 09:13am Tech Issues
RE: W22 or W24 chassis

You can also check the placard by the drivers seat. The W22 has a GVWR of 22,000 pounds. The W24 has a GVWR of 24,000 pounds.
Clay L 07/23/14 10:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2004 Workhorse R-Vision TrailLite Motorhome Dash LCD Display

Here is one place HERE
Clay L 07/23/14 10:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: No excuses, no backup, but would like to recover HD data

When I had a laptop drive that would not boot up I installed a new drive and operating system then put the old drive in an external housing. I was then able to get data from the drive. As I recall the external housing and circuit board was less than $50.
Clay L 07/21/14 10:15am Technology Corner
RE: Steps to full-time.

SD, TX, and FL are the most popular states for full timing. We chose SD and use Alternative Resources as our mail forwarding service. See HERE for their web site. There is some good info about SD there. Also see HERE for info on setting up your legal domicile. I don't see many people full timing in TT. Probably because of lack of storage. Most are in 5th wheels or Class A motor homes.
Clay L 07/20/14 09:17am Beginning RVing
RE: An estimate on the number of Full Time Rvers?

As of today, there is one less full-timer. My job was just eliminated and yesterday I was told I was done! I guess I will be living full-time in my RV for awhile while I try to pick up the pieces but I would no longer consider myself a full-timer. Just a guy living in an RV. Sorry to hear that Bill. Hope you come up with something quickly.
Clay L 07/18/14 01:17pm Full-time RVing
RE: Changing State of residence to Texas ???

We hear good things about South Dakota and are thinking about checking into it, anybody have experience with this? We chose SD. We use ALTERNATIVE RESOURCES HERE in Sioux Falls SD as our mail forwarding service. There is some good info on their web site at the link above.
Clay L 07/18/14 10:02am Snowbirds
RE: When Do You Leave Arizona in the Spring ?

We stayed through April one year and the last part was too hot for us. Through the end of March is what we settled on. We were about 25 miles from Quartzsite in Bouse.
Clay L 07/16/14 11:11am Full-time RVing
RE: Senior Moments

I don't want to insult seniors so I don't use that term anymore. I call them "liberal moments", I don't mind insulting them. :B
Clay L 07/16/14 10:54am General RVing Issues
RE: Cable TV

There are several ways to do it. Winegard recommends the diagram below. Making the connections the way Winegard recommends does not require adding any coax connectors to the wallplate. Note that this assumes your front TV is connected to the coax connector on the front of the wall plate. If yours isn't, there should be a splitter in the line labeled "To second TV" that will send the signal to both the front and rear TVs (if you have two TVs). What Winegard calls a "power supply" below is the wall plate with the antenna booster switch and LED showing when the amplifier is on. If you still want to be able to use the external cable in for both cable TV and the external dish just add an A/B switch to switch the incoming coax from the sat receiver "sat input" to the sat receiver "TV input". If your receiver doesn't have a coax output (and many new ones don't) and you still want to use the batwing antenna you will need to use an A/B switch to switch the signal between the receiver and the antenna out connection on the wall plate. One thing not shown in the diagram is using the RCA type connections or the better quality "component" type output or the HDMI (best) output between the sat receiver and the TV. That will yield a much better picture with no interference from any local channels. You have to select a "video in" with your TV menu instead of using channel 3 (for example). Some newer satellite receivers don't have a coax output so you may have to use HDMI or component connections. If you have a video distribution box that will have to be taken into account. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/ClayL/Winegardsathookup.jpg
Clay L 07/14/14 11:16am Tech Issues
RE: Sizing MOSFET Heat Sink

If you go to my dropbox you can download a small program that will calculate the heat sink thermal resistance needed. Heat Sink Calculator
Clay L 07/14/14 11:13am Tech Issues
RE: Tags

The 3 most popular states with full timers are SD, TX, FL. Take a look HERE for some good info on establishing a legal domicile. Also take a look at the full timing section of this forum. HERE
Clay L 07/13/14 08:21am Class A Motorhomes

It does mean they don't know if the lug nuts are properly torqued or not. That may not be important to some but it is to me. I don't know if all Walmart stores do it but our local Walmart sets the torque with a torque stick/air wrench and then the vehicle is driven around the block/lot and a different guy checks it with a torque wrench and initials that it is okay.
Clay L 07/12/14 01:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Awning gust lock

If we're driving in windy conditions, we use small bungie cords around the awning and slideout toppers. Works for us. How do you wrap the bungee cords around the fabric to keep the wind from unrolling it from the roller? Wrapping them around the arms does not work. SNIP For my slideout toppers, I hook the bungies to the little "sticky-up bit" you can see in the image below, and wrap it around the fabric. http://i61.tinypic.com/xemya0.jpg (PS: this is my first time uploading images in the forums, hope they're viewable) The little sticky up thing is an anti billow arm. If the wind tries to unfurl the slide topper it turns against a strike plate on the side of the RV and prevents it. If installed correctly it will make the bungee cord unnecessary. When the topper extends normally the arm just misses hitting the strike plate.
Clay L 07/10/14 03:02pm Class A Motorhomes
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