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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
those are self resetting breakers. look on the side for the amperage rating, usually 20 amp or 30 amp. looks like they could use a little tender loving care, and while your at it might as well replace them, they don't cost that much.
Auto resetting breakers
here is a sample
Roger that big time! You see, (or can't I should say)you don't know what the connection is like under those nuts. So, not only replace those circuit breakers but, be ready to replace the wire ends too. A good inspection will reveal how bad they are when removed.
Scott
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05/17/13 10:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cruise Control
koda55,
There was also a recall on the F-53 Chassis with the cruise control. I don't have the model years but, it was an extensive recall. It had to do with a bad harness that involved the cruise control. Might be something to think about.
Scott
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05/17/13 09:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: leveling and slide out
yes we have hwh625 with air bags the reason iam asking is the right rear jack is real slow coming up and the springs have been replaced
Don't be too alarmed at that. About 95% of the jacks retract slow, especially the rear ones. Some will be a bit faster and some, well they take their time. You see, there's a ton of resistance that, that fluid encounters when traveling back to the reservoir, all the way from the rear of the coach. There's bends, kinks (sometimes), size of hose, and more that will restrict the flow of that fluid back to it's home. And, the temp has to do with it too. The colder it is outside, the thicker that hydraulic fluid is and, the slower it will travel in the line back to camp.
When the pump is running, that's a serious amount of pressure developed and, it has no choice but, to "scram" to the jack and do it's job of making the jack work. But, on the reverse side, all that's pushing that fluid back home are those springs. You could put FOUR return springs on each jack and it would only be marginally faster in retracting them. As long as they DO retract, you're pretty good to go. Some say that cleaning them and lubing them with things like ATF trans fluid etc. will aid in slow retraction. That's an experiment that I've not tried.
Now, it has been stated that, there is a "time table" of which those jacks are supposed to operate at. That is to say, they're suppose to fully retract in a certain amount of time. I'd have to do some digging to find it but, it's out there somewhere. But, again, as long as they do retract, you're go to go. It will just take some time.
Scott
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05/17/13 09:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: leveling and slide out
campingman55,
Your '05 Vectra is basically a sister ship to our '04 Horizon. I can only assume but, I won't take for granted that you have the HWH Auto leveling, 625 system. And, if it actually is the HWH 625 system, then it can be automatic or manual.
Let's say it's the 625 system and, you want to use it the automatic way. You can do it two different, but easy ways. One with the engine running and the other, without. In either case, the system will automatically "dump" the air in the bags and then, it will deploy the jacks, bringing down the appropriate ones in the order needed for accurate leveling.
Once that's done, the system will automatically shut down and, then, and only then, do you maneuver your slides out. You see, you need a stable platform that's well supported for the slides. And on the opposite end, when picking up and getting ready to depart, you retract the slides FIRST, and then, when you're all ready to head out, you start your engine, and then turn on the HWH panel and hit "Store". The bags will begin to inflate and, the jacks will all retract at the same time and, when all the "red" blinking lights are out on that panel, thats an indication that your jacks are up and ready for travel.
And, by the way, when that system is ready for travel, it turns on the "Travel" mode light. You're ready to head out.
One more thing and it's important. If your slide and jack system IS HWH, DO NOT EXTEND THE SLIDE(S) HALF WAY AND THEN RETRACT THEM!!!!! If you're going to extend any slide, extend it ALL THE WAY, then retract it. And, if you're going to retract any slide, retract it ALL THE WAY IN, then put it back out if that's your plan. Good luck. Happy Rving.
Scott
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05/17/13 08:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What did you do to your Class A MH today???
Well Gang,
Upon my last brake inspection of our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT, I found a slightly leaking left rear hub seal. It was not that bad so, we went on our pending trip. About 1500 miles later, I thought I'd take another look, not knowing how long it took it to get that way in the first 49,900 miles. Well, it's only a tad worse but, since I had it half way apart, I figured what the heck, might as well do it.
This kind of job is not all that hard. The hard part is, the heaviness of each of the wheels and tires, the drum and, even the hub. So, if you plan on taking on a project like this, be prepared for some heavy and awkward tire/wheel combos and that drum.
Anyway, with the correct tools, gear-reduced "Torque Multiplier", the 450 lb. torqued lug nuts came off very, very easily. Then the drum, which I used a motorcycle jack to remove, what a piece of cake with that jack. Then, the hub, I needed 4" hub nut socket for that.
Then, the removal of the seal. I used a Snap On "claw footed" crow bar for that and, it worked flawless. I cleaned all the parts and, ordered up the seal. Incidentally, that seal is right at $47.00, wow, for a seal?? Really!
So, in the pics you'll see that there is some migration of the diff oil on various edges and some parts but, not enough to contaminate the brake shoes etc. So, I finished cleaning all the brake area, return springs, S-cam etc. I had to make a seal installer tool because this seal is so large that you could damage it by trying to install it with the old hammer and flat punch way. Boy, that's the way to go. So, all back together and better than new. A fun but, laborious project.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1010212_zps6835f5f7.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1010213_zps5a26feb0.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1010215_zpsb288768b.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1010222_zps26532be5.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1010225_zps4be54925.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1010228_zps22271fa8.jpg
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05/17/13 07:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Roof renewal products
Geocritter,
Yes Sir, this topic's been around, on and off, for quite a while and, it's always a presidential debate. The long and short of it, some guys NEVER climb on their roof and never see the condition of it, some don't think anything has to be done to it, EVER! Some, do a yearly wash and that's it. Some, do more like wash, protect with many forms of products.
Long story short, our previous coach, a '99 Fleetwood Bounder 34V, had a deteriorating rubber roof, the EDPM version. Well, after about 6 years of ownership, and sitting directly in the hot, So CAL sun, that roof was almost completely BLACK, due to the fact that the white coating was just wearing away.
Well, after quite a bit of research, I finally decided on the Dicor product. It's a two part process. Here's the scoop. It was all done in one day!
1. Wash with good soap and water and good brush, let dry.
2. Apply "primer/prep" and scrub, then, "PRESSURE WASH OFF"!!!
3. After that's dry, apply first coat of new coating, let dry
4. Apply second coat of coating.
Now, that was about 5+ years ago an it looks as good today as it did the day we did it. No more black, no more streaks and, considerably cooler inside the coach due to a white roof, not solar black one. Now, that was way back then, there certainly could be more economical coatings out today.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/coatedroof.jpg
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05/17/13 02:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling
Heatmcalister,
First off, "What agent"? A salesman? In most coaches, if not all, leveling is handled on the "inside" of the coach. I've been around these things for a while now and have never seen where someone has to go "outside" the coach to handle leveling practices. Now, different year, model and makes setup the leveling practice in slightly different procedures. It depends on:
1. Who made the leveling system? HWH & Power Gear are the primary makers
2. What does the owners manual say?
3. Is the system Automatic or, manual or, both?
Now, I suppose there could be some sort of valve on the outside for some purpose of draining air etc. But, for leveling? Boy, that's a first for me.
A suggestion if I may here. If you live with a sloped drive way or the parking place for your coach is less than level, then a way more stable way of making it level while at your home is to "drive" onto blocks (tapered preferably) to get the coach PRIMARILY level, and then, use the leveling system (jacks) to do the fine tuning and, stabilization. You and, the coach will be much happier that way.
If you use the jacks only and, your situation is that unleveled, it creates undo stress on the frame/body/windshield/doors etc. due to the torqueing of the frame while it's trying to "tweak" that coach into being level. By driving up on some nice, heavy duty, solid wooden blocks, you're assuring the stability and sure footedness right off the bat. Just a suggestion.
Scott
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05/17/13 02:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Kelderman Air Ride
You know,
This is amazing to me. We had a '99 Fleetwood Bounder, 34V w/F-53 chassis and V-10. We really liked the coach and would have it today if we didn't travel with both a Honda Goldwing and a toad. We had to change motorhomes due to the way we load the rig up.
Now, that being said, that Bounder was a nice coach but, seriously wrongly designed. It has a 100 gallon water tank at the very rear of the coach, a 75 gallon fuel tank just behind the rear axle and, a 14 gallon propane tank behind the right rear duals. So, needless to say, the front end was seriously "unloaded" for the GAWF. The front axle weight rating was 7,000 lbs. The actual weight, with every thing loaded, was 5,500. It road like a rock. Now, I could see that the Kelderman system back then might, have been an improvement but, what I'm kind of wondering here is,
Has Ford, and the RV industry as a whole not done ANYTHING to alleviate the "so called" issues about Ford handling and weight loading problems that, a person who purchases a 2013 Motorhome and then has to turn right around and spend, what used to be back when we had the Bounder, about $3,000.00 to "try" and get it to ride correctly?
To spend that kind of money, right after spending the big money on the coach in the first place, sure seems like I'd have to maybe think about another chassie'd coach, depending on what else is available. Sure seems like Ford and the RV industry would get together on this but, maybe they just don't care 'cause people still buy the coaches equipped with the F-53 chassis.
Scott
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05/17/13 09:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Slideouts and jacks not working
Donpepe,
Yes, your complete HWH pump and reservoir are under your steps. I fail to see how Winnebago could not give you this information. If they have the last six of your vin, they can tell you where every nut and bolt is. They have for me, the last few times I've called them.
If you lay on your side, in front of the right front wheel, and look up, under the right front of the coach, towards the under side of the steps, you should see a clear, Plexiglas panel.
That is a cover panel for the circuit board that runs the entire HWH system. It looks like something out of a Star Trek movie. And yes, under your second step, the front lip, is the bolt that secures that step. Remove the bolt, and the step hinges towards the driver side of the coach. When you lift that step, you'll see the pump, manifold, all the solenoids, and the reservoir.
Now, I'm assuming that, when you were trying to operate all the slides and the jacks, that your emergency brake was set. Because if it wasn't (no one on a diesel parks without setting that brake because there is no "Park" in the trans on those), than your HWH system will not work. There is a e-brake interlock that must be activated prior to the HWH system to be operative.
If your e-brake was set, and you've still had issues, that interlock switch system could be on the fritz. I hope this helps some.
Scott
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05/16/13 09:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water leak from area behind Frig
augustpilot,
It's quite possible that it is your ice maker line. There is a heater line that usually accompanies that water line, inside the insulated tubing cover that runs up the back of the fridge.
The heater is for keeping that line from freezing in colder climates etc. It sometimes, heats right through that water line and, causes a leak that runs down and around the bottom of the fridge. It can be a pain to trace.
I pulled my fridge in our previous coach, a '99 Fleetwood Bounder 34V and, replaced that line with some new, 1/4" plastic line from the hardware store. I also separated it from that heater because I knew that, that rig would never see that kind of temps to warrant the heater line being placed next to the water line. Never had another leak. Just an idea.
Scott
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05/16/13 08:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: wheel polishing
How can you tell if the wheels are clear coated? Are most wheels not clear coated?
bgholson,
At a distance, you can't, at least not me. But, upon close inspection, some of the manufacturers, actually put a moniker or, label on their wheels that say so. One particular brand of wheels is Accuride wheels. They use and, stamp on their wheels the word: Accushield. That tells you right off the bat, that on those wheels is a coating.
Now, if you can't read that or, it's not a set of Accuride wheels, then, a very simple test will tell. Get some mothers or, Semi-Chrome or, any one of a zillion other metal polishes out there and put dab on the tip of a terry cloth of microfiber towel and rub a small spot, say around an inch square.
Now, with an uncoated wheel, the rag will immediately start to turn black. That's the aluminum oxidation coming off. And, the result, a shiny spot. But, if the wheel's got a coating on it, You can rub 'till your fingers fall off and it will NOT TURN BLACK.
And don't let anyone tell you 'DON'T DO IT, YOU'LL RUIN YOUR COATING IMMEDIATELY! BULL SH.. Todays coatings are seriously tough stuff. If you could ruin it with 10 seconds of some "Tooth paste" polish, then you'd darn near ruin it with washing it with soap and water and dirty chamois.
If you don't have any polish, even some wax, (with cleaners in the chemical mix) will do the trick. They're not nearly as strong as a polish but, if there's no coating on the wheels, the rag will turn black.
Scott
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05/16/13 10:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: wheel polishing
Coated wheels?
Schertz,
Are you asking what "Coated" wheels are? If so, many of the Manufacturers of Alloy wheels, (aluminum ones) go through a process of either machining their wheels or, polishing them to a high luster and, then applying a "Coating" to them, as in the term, "Clear coat". It used to be just a semi-UV resistant Lacquer but, formulas have improved over the years to the point that Urethanes are the coating of choice. And, when a wheel is coated, it cannot be polished any more than it is, under the coating.
That is, unless one feels the need to go about removing the coating which, is one serious PAIN IN THE A$$. Anyway, my personal choice are wheels that are NOT COATED. I don't mind the time it takes to put a high luster on my wheels. As you can see in my pictures above.
Scott
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05/15/13 11:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: who has done a complete renovation
koresample,
Sorry about that. Most of the time when I relay a link, I don't have too much trouble. I'll try it this way. 40 AD Vectra Remodel
Try that, if it still doesn't work, we'll go for plan z.
Scott
I might butt in here and just to say, that's one mean machine you have there and probably wouldn't know how to act around it as an owner.
Looks really good for sure!
tropical36,
I WISH that was mine! It's not, I just relayed the link of the gent who did all the work. Man, like I stated before, I love those ceiling "infinity" lights. If you look up "Infinity lights", you'll find a website for them and a company that has a specialty in lighting.
Scott
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05/15/13 08:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Detroit Diesel 671 fuel issues
Wow, a "671"! I've not heard those numbers in quite a while. Way back in '80 when I joined SDFD, we had (4)- 6V53s, (2)-671s about 3 dozen 8V71s and had just purchased (10) of the "92" series. I actually liked all those series Detroit's. I personally think the sound of a 92 series is the BEST sounding diesel engine ever. The 6-53 series were so incredibly loud they drove us all nuts.
The 8-V71 series were fun to drive and, the 92 series were seriously fast, for it's day.
Anyway, I hope you get that "bit of nostalgia" working. Has it done this same thing before, with the same level, more or less of fuel? Or, is this something new?
Scott
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05/15/13 07:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Lug Nut size
PeoriaKen,
May I ask, what "Type" of wheels do you have? Are they steel with Stainless steel wheel liners or, are they "Aluminum"? If, they're Aluminum, it's possible that, (like ours) there is a stamped number on the lug nut caps, (that is if you have caps). On mine there is a "33" on them. That is, mine are 33 mm lug nuts. The same, or very, very close in American sockets is a 1 5/16". This is assuming that because you have 22.5" wheels, your lugs will be the same as ours. Just guessing here.
Scott
P.S. Use a tape measure and measure across the stud, from a flat surface on one side to the exact opposite on the other side of the lug nut and see what you get.
Scott
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05/15/13 04:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: who has done a complete renovation
koresample,
Sorry about that. Most of the time when I relay a link, I don't have too much trouble. I'll try it this way. 40 AD Vectra Remodel
Try that, if it still doesn't work, we'll go for plan z.
Scott
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05/14/13 11:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Plastic leveling blocks
Hey SML,
This is entirely up to you Bud, but, I've seen many DP units sitting on those yellow plastic blocks "under the tires". I've seen them stair step them to a height 5 or 6 and, they appeared to be handling the weight just fine each time I saw them in that situation. I have various thickness wooden blocks for my application but, I also carry about 10 of those too.
Leveling is always a debate here and on other forums. How people go about it, the procedures, limits to which they'll let their vehicles "hang" and more are always argued, one way or another. Now you, knowing that your new rig is "potentially" limited in leveling capabilities, might think about keeping maybe at least half of them around. Again, it's entirely up to you for a decision like this. I don't even know what kind of limit those are suppose to have. I just know I've seen them under some mighty heavy rigs. Your choice pal.
Scott
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05/14/13 10:23pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: who has done a complete renovation
koresample,
I'm posting a link here from another RV forum. The gent just finished a serious internal, and some external modifications and changes. It's been around for short time but, I'm assuming it's ok to "relay" it to folks like yourself who have intensions attacking a refurb job. Keep in mind, some of it is extreme and not to everyone's taste. He did what "he" wanted to, not what anyone else might like.
He put some serious coin into it too. Wait 'till you see the ceiling lights. I really like those. Anyway, check it out and if there's anything you might want to think about.
Scott
https://picasaweb.google.com/1026441...ImD8K-Gs_nzqgE
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05/14/13 09:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Crazy steering wobble/shake
Well Gang,
In the OPs answer to me on the history of his ownership of the coach, he stated he's had it for quite a while, many, many miles and it: HAS NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE! So, I suspect that, he's driven with just about every combination of loaded tanks, unloaded tanks, loaded coach, unloaded coach, acceleration, deceleration, cornering, bumps, dips, hard stops, soft stops, towing, not towing, and much, much more and any combination thereof.
And, It's never done it before. So, is it possible that, for the very first time, after years of ownership, that, he's encountered a driving/coach condition that he's NEVER encountered before? I kind-a doubt it. I am not a front end expert, nor a physics professor so, trying to figure out what kind of weight transfer/shift that could cause his situation FOR THE VERY FIRST TIME, after owning the rig for that long, would be very tough.
Our rig, the sister ship to his, an 04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT, (only ours is 3' shorter) is an incredibly heavy rig. I could load those black, gray, fuel, and, 31 gallon propane tanks in any combination of full/empty and (and have had it at multiple levels of each) and never tell the difference in handling or, performance.
This is why I asked him how long he's owned it, and, has it EVER DONE THIS BEFORE. His answer was, a long time and, it's never done it before. So, what's changed in the last couple of weeks that might be the issue here? He's had supposed reputable companies analyze the front end, alignment and more. An unbalanced tire, enough to cause shaking, is going to manifest itself each and every time one reaches the speed at which it starts to cause issues. But, this problem is not consecutive. It happens, then, it doesn't happen with driving conditions duplicated. I hate when some things "malfunctioning" only part of the time.
Scott
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05/14/13 08:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH kevelers
My class A has an access panel just behind the coach batteries. There are 4 screws holding it in place.
Yes Sir, our old coach, a 99 Fleetwood Bounder 34V, w/F-53 Chassis, also had the reservoir behind the house batteries. That certainly doesn't mean the OPs will be there but, they have to be somewhere so, it might be worth a look.
Scott
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05/14/13 07:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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