My HWH jack sensor is the size of an upside down small saucer, about 4 inches in diameter, and located in my basement air conditioning bay. I understand HWH doesn't supply the sensor, but each manufacturer buys and installs whatever they want. My sensor has three screws on top that are adjusted to change the level settings. If the sensor is moved or bent by something (as happened to me), you'll have to reset the sensor to teach it what is level.
As DSDP Don suggested, it is probably a wet electrical connection and not the sensor.
You'll get spots on the door by using soap. Instead, try "body wash", which doesn't contain the product that produces the scum or film left on the door and walls. Sure makes cleaning easier.
We use the Kirkland brand from Costco, but I'm sure other brands will work just as well.
I didn't have them on our Class C, but do have them on our Class A. They are definitely worth it to me, but that's me.
I had thought of fabricating in some portable hydraulic jacks on our Class C, but decided it was easier to just blocks and jacks as needed. It was a pain but cheap. The automatic system on our Class A is fantastic.
Since your coach is 13 years old and you have two things that are inoperative when the rig is parked, I'd suspect you have a relay that has worn out. Most of the time they fail intermittently, but not always.
Relay (or solenoids) look like little beer cans with large copper posts on each side and two small connections near the bottom. You probably have several in your electrical bay. (The are identical to the solenoids that were used for starters in most cars in the 50's and 60's.)
The one that controls things that should be powered up when your coach is parked should "click" when you turn the key. Have someone listen for it when the key is turned. Just because it "clicks" doesn't mean it is working. You'll have to check it with a meter to see if power is being passed thru.
Attending some RV shows as suggested by gbopp is an excellent recommendation.
A common definition of the difference between Class C's and Class A's, is: A Class C sleeps 6, dinner for 4, drinks for 2. A Class A sleeps 2, dinner for 4, drinks for 6.
Since you're going to have two teenage girls with you, a Class C would be the more obvious choice. But, how often will they be with you and for how many more years?
Stick to Vanguard. Use any bank like Cap One that doesn't charge transaction fees. Transfer from Vanguard to banks works well.
Why persist with a company that doesn't want your business?
Again, they don't want your business so go elsewhere.
We previously towed a 2000 Mustang convertible that weighed about 3100 lbs. It had a V6 and a manual transmission. Even though the owner's manual said it could not be towed, we never had any problems and towed it many thousands of miles.
I bought used aluminum "tool box" on Craig's List for $50 as a gift for my son's pickup. It cleaned up well and looked nice. Several years ago, I sold a similar box that I had bolted to a platform that attached to the trailer hitch on my previous coach. While the initial cost was something over $400, I sold it for $200 on Crag's List. You may be able to find something used like that.
I also had attached boat cleats to the top and sides of the box to tie down things that were too large to fit inside.
We have basement air in our 21 year old HR coach and it has always worked flawlessly. We had roof air on our previous rig and, although it worked satisfactorily, we prefer the basement air. Roof air is far more common since it is cheaper. With basement air, you do loose one compartment.
Our A/C is located up near the front, so it doesn't interfere with our sleeping. It is also quiet enough so it also doesn't bother us while visiting or watching TV.
You're right. Michelin makes tires in sizes that no one else uses, but other tire makers make tires in almost exactly the same sizes. The tire stores I've been to all seem to know what sizes are compatible with your rims and will give you the same diameter and footprint as your present tires. Don't worry about it. You should have a choice of several sizes that will work.
A potential cause could be the solenoid that powers up certain things only when the key is in the accessory position. Check your electrical bay for a small, beer can looking thing with copper posts sticking out on each side. (They look just like the starter solenoids used on cars when we were kids.) When someone else turns the key, it should click. Sometimes they fail intermittently, just due to age. Replacements are cheap. Just disconnect the power and unbolt.
You probably have several of these. Each one performs a different function, and if one is failing, I'd replace all of them.
I have three COPD machines, and all are 12 volt powered by a 120 volt transformer, much like laptop computers. I made a 12 volt power cord to bypass my inverter/converter in the event we ran down the batteries and I wanted to save what power I had left to run the COPD machine. I don't use oxygen or the humidifier, so my power needs are probably much less than most users. I also have four house batteries and two engine batteries, so we have a lot of capacity.
You can use the lime removal stuff (it goes by three initials, but I can't remember the name) by just pouring it into the bowel and letting it soak a few times. Many have used cooking oil to lubricate the seals once they are clean. Just pour a few teaspoons full into the toilet and let it sit. That normally keeps the seals working.
If the lime removal stuff doesn't work, removing the toilet and replacing the valve and seals is actually an easy job, even for a novice. (The first time is time consuming, but once you've done it, you'll find it not difficult at all.)
Stop. There are two very different questions here:
IF your question is: "I am changing coolant, what do you recommend", I agree, one of the new-generation OAT-based coolants is the way I would go. If Cummins, would go with their house brand which is Fleetguard ES Complet OAT. If Cat, Caterpillar ELC.
IF you question is what to I top off my present system with, you need to check with your chassis maker (Freightliner I suspect). BUT, if this is OE coolant, you are way over-due to change it, as you do not have one of the long-life coolants from the factory.
Do what Brett suggests. He really does know his "stuff".
If you want a coach with a bed over the front seats, you'll probably have to settle on a Class "C", as the last Class "A"s with those beds were made in the early 1980's.
Try PPL's web site. That's a consignment lot in Texas. They have a large number of RVs for sale, so you may be able to narrow down your search just by looking at their web site.
I second by-passing Yuma. While there are some rigs for sale during the winter season, and some may be competitively priced in February or March, the selection would be very limited. You could drive over to Quartzsite and look at the units for sale there during January. Again though, the selection would be limited.
Like most of us, you probably have particle board under the carpet. As a result, I would suggest a "dry" carpet cleaning machine, which uses a sawdust material. They are available for rent here at supermarkets. The other option would be to use just a little water and quickly vacuum it up, using the least amount of shampoo or soap you possibly can.
I've used Simple Green, but only a tiny amount, to get stains to dissolve in the water to be vacuumed up. I've then had to re-moist and re-vacuum over and over again to get all the soap up. So, if you decide on this method, to save you a lot of work, try just using warm/hot water sprayed on the carpet, a small section at a time, and then vacuum it up. I do sections of about a foot or two foot square each time.
Just be careful not to use a lot of water. And, the less soap the better. Much less soap. No matter how much soap you use, it will be too much. Soap residue attracts dirt like a magnet.
10 at 45 mph, 8-9 at 55, and 7 at 65 in the East. Take 0.5 off in the western mountains.
Actual experience will depend on how you drive, the kind of roads you are on, and the weight of your coach. But, 8 to 10 is a reasonable estimate as mentioned above.
I agree with both Golden HVAC and wintersun.
Buy two 6 volt wet cell deep cycle batteries and an inverter/converter. Using a Honda generator for times of high amperage use is a very good suggestion. If the price of the Honda is not in your budget, then one of the cheap Chinese knock-offs at less than half the price might work. Keep in mind they are cheaper for a reason.
Solar panels are a more expensive and complicated solution, but are totally quiet and can charge the batteries up to 100%. (Your generator will charge wet cell batteries quickly up to 80%, but then it is very slow for the last 20%.)
My understand is the 2005 was the last year Honda gave towing instruction in the owner's manual. The 2006 and later years Owner's manuals indicate they can't be towed.
I understand the suspension system was changed, as well as possibly the transmission, which won't tolerate towing. Also, some owners of the 2005 and earlier models complained of frame weld failure problems, possibly due to the strain of being pulled around. A Honda dealer's salesman told me in 2006 that the 2006 model was towable, and they would just quote the 2005 manual. So, so much for salesmen. (I also didn't buy a Honda, but a Hummer, which can be towed.)
Wish I knew more and had specific facts to quote, but I don't.