I agree with you, and in the same order you gave. Good luck.
(The belt is the cheapest and easiest to replace. The tensioner is second in both cost and difficulty. Finally, the clutch is the most expensive and the most difficult.)
We liked Shangra La RV Resort in the Foothills, east of Yuma. They have a pool, activities, 50 amp power, full hookups, etc. However, there are perhaps 30 or more parks in the Foothills that are similar, plus another 20 or more parks in Yuma itself. Those in Yuma tend to be older and not quite as "nice". However, they are closer to the stores and Alcodonis, Mexico.
It is a solenoid. There are two kinds, one that is designed to operate intermittently, like for starting the engine, and one that is designed to stay on constantly, like that needed to power things like wipers, heater blower, etc., that you want on when the engine is running, but off when the key is off.
The are very, very common. I've bought some replacements at NAPA, but any good auto parts place will have what you need.
Consider Yuma, Arizona. There are many, perhaps 100+ RV parks in the immediate area around Yuma, and very, very few have fire pits. However, it isn't a place you would want to stay during the summer since temperatures can get unbearable. From November to March it is very pleasant.
Washington has one of the higher tax rates, but we don't have an income tax (yet). And, our state sales tax is about 9%, but the actual rate varies with local option taxes. Somehow, somebody has to pay for all these "benefits" our government provides, including the "free" roads.
Your eng should start easily down to -40 with grid heaters - about -30 without them so syn oil isn't really needed.
You also have an eng that will go 700,000 to well over 1 million miles with normal maint. So it isn't really needed for longevity either.
I tried in in two Cummins I owned but neither one got any better mileage or showed any kind of change.
But if your the type that just likes to use the very best to take care of his toys (and I sure repect that!) then go for it. It sure wont hurt.
X2 (Couldn't have said it any better.)
Absorption refrigerators are efficient users of electrical power, which powers the control unit, and propane (for cooling), but are slow to cool down from startup. Adding fans, both inside and outside, will improve efficiency and uniform cooling. Since RVs are frequently used where electricity is limited to batteries, household type (using a compressor and Freon) refrigerators are impractical. If an owner has a large enough coach with a large (six or eight 6 volt batteries), and is willing to recharge this battery bank frequently, then a residential type is preferred.
Costco and Sam's Club are both good resources for batteries.
If you can locate the Interstate Battery Distributor in your area, call them and ask about returned or blemished batteries. You can save up to half the retail price.
You'll have to change the setup. For some reason, the difference in voltage requires a different setting.
Call Fisher-Paykel. They are very customer friendly.
(I installed a FP "dishdrawer" 10 years ago and the wife LOVES it.)
Keeping the processor cool is the key. The heat sinks installed by the manufacturers are just enough to make it work briefly. I install after market cooling fans with bigger heat sinks. Also, make sure you vacuum out the case frequently. Dust is a great insulator.
Finally, I've had better luck with ASUS computers than HP, and all of my latest purchases have been of ASUS desktops and laptops.
(That having been said, I'm using an HP desktop right now but with the cover off and an Enermax cooling system installed. It's my machine of choice.)
Since you indicated you don't know much about carburetors, something that may interest you is filters will normally take out dirt that gets pumped up from the gas tank, as others have mentioned. However that is not normally the cause of a problem. The normal cause is old gas that has turned to varnish by being allowed to sit for some time. The volatile part of the gas evaporates leaving the varnish behind, and that gums up the little holes, called "jets", that allow gas to flow to the engine.
Another cause is water left over from the alcohol that is now added to gasoline to meet emission standards. Stuff grows in the water and that can block the jets. Also, water won't go thru the jets unless it is mixed with alcohol.
So, change the filter. It probably looks like a very short cigar and is right at where the fuel line connects to the carburetor. (It may be on the top right on the Holly if I remember correctly.)
I don't think your Holly has a drain plug at the bottom unless it is very old, but if it does, you could drain out the debris and water. Taking the top off of the carburetor is a job better left to someone familiar with rebuilding a carburetor, so removing and exchanging it with a rebuilt would be the better choice. Good luck.
My HWH jack sensor is the size of an upside down small saucer, about 4 inches in diameter, and located in my basement air conditioning bay. I understand HWH doesn't supply the sensor, but each manufacturer buys and installs whatever they want. My sensor has three screws on top that are adjusted to change the level settings. If the sensor is moved or bent by something (as happened to me), you'll have to reset the sensor to teach it what is level.
As DSDP Don suggested, it is probably a wet electrical connection and not the sensor.
You'll get spots on the door by using soap. Instead, try "body wash", which doesn't contain the product that produces the scum or film left on the door and walls. Sure makes cleaning easier.
We use the Kirkland brand from Costco, but I'm sure other brands will work just as well.
I didn't have them on our Class C, but do have them on our Class A. They are definitely worth it to me, but that's me.
I had thought of fabricating in some portable hydraulic jacks on our Class C, but decided it was easier to just blocks and jacks as needed. It was a pain but cheap. The automatic system on our Class A is fantastic.
Since your coach is 13 years old and you have two things that are inoperative when the rig is parked, I'd suspect you have a relay that has worn out. Most of the time they fail intermittently, but not always.
Relay (or solenoids) look like little beer cans with large copper posts on each side and two small connections near the bottom. You probably have several in your electrical bay. (The are identical to the solenoids that were used for starters in most cars in the 50's and 60's.)
The one that controls things that should be powered up when your coach is parked should "click" when you turn the key. Have someone listen for it when the key is turned. Just because it "clicks" doesn't mean it is working. You'll have to check it with a meter to see if power is being passed thru.
Attending some RV shows as suggested by gbopp is an excellent recommendation.
A common definition of the difference between Class C's and Class A's, is: A Class C sleeps 6, dinner for 4, drinks for 2. A Class A sleeps 2, dinner for 4, drinks for 6.
Since you're going to have two teenage girls with you, a Class C would be the more obvious choice. But, how often will they be with you and for how many more years?
Stick to Vanguard. Use any bank like Cap One that doesn't charge transaction fees. Transfer from Vanguard to banks works well.
Why persist with a company that doesn't want your business?
Again, they don't want your business so go elsewhere.
We previously towed a 2000 Mustang convertible that weighed about 3100 lbs. It had a V6 and a manual transmission. Even though the owner's manual said it could not be towed, we never had any problems and towed it many thousands of miles.