I have a 1993 coach with the HWH levelers and all have their original springs. I can't help but think a slow retracting leveler is due to something else, such as dirty fluid, closed valve or dirty jack. I spray mine with silicone fluid just before retracting. The fluid seems to keep the seals lubricated, although I would assume MD3 fluid (automatic transmission fluid) would do the same, if not better.
I changed the fluid several years ago as a preventive measure. it takes about a gallon if I remember correctly. I also lubricate the zert fittings and spray the moving/pivoting parts with silicone spray. Remember to check the manual release valves on top of the pump to make sure they are closed.
One advantage this year is the price of gasoline is just under $2.00 and diesel is just over $2.00. At least that's the price in Western Washington. Typically, prices elsewhere are a little lower, but not always.
Good luck with whatever decision you make.
The easiest solution would be to install several of the computer type fans on the inside of the lower vent, using nylon ties. That's what I did. I used five fans and connected all of them to a switch. I had a twelve volt bar to draw power off along with a ground, so for me that was an easy choice. You may have a similar bar on the lower left. It is black with wires connected. Good luck.
Obviously, fans on top are more efficient and would be the first choice, but as you indicated access is the problem with that option. You could always have the frig pulled out later at a RV repair facility back in the states later.
Lacking any information about the tv, dvd, battery or inverter, my educated guess would be "a while".
Probably a few hours, but that would depend on the amperage draw combination of the TV, player and the inverter/converter.
Incidentally, you don't want to draw down the battery to less than 11.5 volts our you'll shorten its life considerably. Actually, two six volt batteries would last a lot longer as they tolerate deep discharge and recharging much better.
As long as the preventive maintenance was done, this sounds like a great buy. Good luck.
The Cummins 8.3 will outlast the coach. The engines can go 300,000 before Cummins recommends dropping the pan and checking the bearings, etc.
We have a 2013 Honda CRV, but haven't had a baseplate installed yet since our 2006 Hummer works so well as a toad. It is heavy at 4,600 lbs, but all I have to do is push one button for 10 seconds and that disconnects the drive train. No key needed in the ignition. The baseplate consists of changing the tow rings in front with brackets. Very easy.
However, if we get tired of the Hummer, we'll install a baseplate on the Honda. It is a very nice, comfortable car.
I replaced the relays in the control box several years ago as a precaution or preventive maintenance issue due to the age of my coach. It uses the same relays as those that are use everywhere else in my coach, but I can't recall the identifying number. I had bought a box of 24 on e-bay a few years earlier, so the cost was minimum to me. The box is black, about 5 inches square, and has Allison written on the cover. Mine was in the ceiling of my electrical bay, and right under the touch pad.
A second potential problem is one of the main relays could be sticking. The relays look just like those used for starters in cars in the 50's and early 60's, and look like a miniature beer can. They have copper posts in each side and two smaller electrical connections in front. They don't last forever but will generally fail intermittently, so there is some warning. If the relay doesn't work, your transmission won't be activated.
I've bought and sold thru Craig's list and haven't had any problems. However, I asked for and received a bunch of extra photos before traveling to another state to look and eventually buy a coach. I knew what to look for and accepted the premise that the seller wasn't going to tell me everything. He didn't, but that wasn't a problem. I fixed the minor problems (that he didn't have the ability or knowledge to do) and we're happy.
The most serious thing to watch for is roof leakage or any water damage. The other potential serious problem can be the drive train; engine and transmission, which can be expensive to replace. Brakes, suspension components, tires, etc. are all reasonably inexpensive to replace. The house components are supplied to the manufacturers by others and are normally reasonably easy to replace.
Two 6 volt batteries are a better choice for "house batteries".
Six volt batteries have three cells, which are larger with thicker plates than a 12 volt battery, which has six cells. So, the 6 volt battery will tolerate discharging and charging much better than the 12 volt.
Starting batteries should be 12 volt, even if you have two as most diesel pusher coaches have. They work better as they provide high amperage for a very short duration and then are recharged.
The sponsors of this forum, Camping World, sells water heaters and also offers installation.
You will need to know the size of the heater, which is expressed in gallons. Sometimes a larger heater will fit, and other times not. So, get the information off of the old heater and aim for an identical brand & model. That makes it easier to install. The make and model of your camper is almost useless since manufactures often change suppliers and offer different options.
No, a tankless model would involve a major remodel and significant expense. You don't want to go down that road. Stick with replacing what is already installed.
Unless the price is just too good to pass up, run away from this unit. There are just too many choices out there to take a chance on a leaking roof. Once the roof leaks, repairing the roof is reasonably easy, but repairing the leak damage is very difficult and expensive. It just isn't worth it. Keep looking.
If you call Monaco and give them your VIN, they may be able to find something. However, for a coach this old, it is unlikely they would have much.
One big advantage may be that your coach wasn't wired with wiring harnesses, but rather by running individual circuits, something like a house is wired. (That's the way my 1993 HR Navigator is wired.) That would apply to the house, not the engine or chassis, but Cummins (or Cat) might have some wiring diagrams. Call the engine maker with the engine serial number.
Spartan has been helpful in the past with specifics on components used on my chassis. I don't recall what identifying information they wanted to identify my chassis.
I have a Norcold portable freezer/refrigerator that was standard with the coach when new. It fits in the basement bay and runs off of either 120 volt (from the inverter/converter) or straight 12 volt from the house batteries. I built a "dog house" from 2 inch thick construction foam to improve the efficiency and I haven't noticed any significant power draw overnight while dry camping. We use it to store frozen food and ice. It uses a standard Freon refrigeration system, not a solid state or propane. It works great.
Aluminum will conduct heat much more efficiently then glass, so that's why the window frames have condensation and not the glass.
A dehumidifier would be the obvious solution. If you lower the amount of moisture in the air inside your RV, you'll have less condensation.
An alternate solution would be to improve ventilation by opening a roof vent, but this would cause some heat loss. Because of the high humidity already, ventilation alone may not be sufficient to solve all of your condensation problems.
Finally, replacing the windows with double pane (insulated) windows would normally not be cost effective due to the age of your rig and the cost of having the windows replaced. However, that would be one potential solution.
Good luck and stay dry.
Yes, you can be on shore power and getting 120v to run things but still be on battery for the 12v things if the converter is not "on"
BTW the fridge will not work on 120v if it does not have 12v to run the controls, so you will lose the fridge too fairly soon at this rate as the battery runs right down.
There are several reasons why that could be. EG, you might have accidentally reversed the battery wires the last time you installed the battery, which blows the two 30a fuses on the converter or its nearby Dc fuse panel.
Or the converter is not getting any 120v input if it has its own breaker and it has popped. Or it is not plugged in to its receptacle if it has a cord and is not hard wired. Or that receptacle is on a GFCI protected circuit and the GFCI has popped. Or...
All of the suggestions above are valid. You'll just have to do some looking and double checking until you find the cause.
Consider a tour bus. Most are leases with good maintenance records and were kept in great shape. Bus for sale .com has many prevost in the 250 to 300 range that sleep 12 have have 2 seating areas.
This appears to be the obvious solution. These tour buses are built to handle a large group and are frequently used by bands and entertainers. They don't have slideouts but they have sleeping quarters (bunks) with curtains, private lights and ventilation. They also have huge engines and can pull a heavy trailer.
Most tour buses are built on Prevost chassis, so they can get expensive, or at least more expensive than a top quality coach built for two people.
I'm in the "two six volt golf cart batteries" group.
A six volt and twelve volt batteries are about the same size, but the six volt has three cells and the twelve has six. Since the cells in the 6 volt are larger, they can tolerate the deep cycling much better than a twelve volt.
Costco and Sam's Club tend to have the best prices on batteries. Good luck.
(I have four 6 volt batteries wired to provide 12 volts, but my coach has more electrical stuff and I need that much amperage. As others have posted, don't use the 12 volt option on your frig. Use the propane or 120 volt when available.)
You've pretty much ruled out a defective regulator and a pinched line.
One possibility is your tank contains butane, not propane, which stops "boiling" at about 32 degrees. Butane works fine in the summer, but not so well in cold weather. LP gas has to turn from a liquid to a gas (boil) for it to be available at the appliance. Propane boils down to a way down below "0".
Several vendors in the south sell butane or a mixture of butane and propane. You may have used all of your propane up and now only butane is left.
We have State Farm, which is the second highest rated national company. That's worth something to me. The highest rated is USAA, but they act as general agents for a another company since they don't write policies on RVs themselves.
Read up on auto insurance in a recent issue of Consumer's Reports. You may or may not think the information is unbiased, but that's your choice.