I installed four computer fans on the inside of the lower vent to force cooling air past the coils and up and out the top vent. It seems to have helped quite a bit. The second thing I did was install a computer fan inside, wired to the light switch (before the switch so it stays on all the time). That has reduced the frost building up in the frig to near "0". Of course, the freezer still needs defrosting.
Some newer coaches have two larger fans at the top of the frig at the back on top of the top cooling coils and connected to thermal switches so they only run when the frig coils are quite warm. They appear to be a common feature as I've noticed these on new frig units for sale at RV stores.
Finally, I'm amazed a 1979 frig is still working. You're lucky.
I've never bought or considered an ex-rental RV, but judging how people use/mistreat rental anything, I'd have some serious reservations. The price would have to be very, very competitive.
A gas rig with over 100K, would be well used. At one time, gas engines wouldn't last more than about 100K, but they are better built now. (The same is not true for diesels as they can go 300K plus before needing an overhaul.) The same holds true for transmissions. On the other hand, if the price is right, the cost of a new (to you) engine/transmission from a salvaged RV might be a logical option.
If the rig has over 100K, the interior furnishings and appliances would also be well used. Keep that in mind.
We took a similar 40 day trip in 1995 with our two children, then 11 & 16, in a 28 ft Class C. It went perfectly. We stayed in campgrounds with pools each night so the kids could get some exercise. They especially enjoyed the theme parks, so don't pass those up.
Since we started from Washington State, we drove across the US to Niagara Falls, then New York, Philadelphia, Gettysburg, Washington, Kentucky (Grand Ole Opry), then back west across the US to Los Vegas, Grand Canyon, and up the coast back to Washington State. We stopped at every tourist trap and scenic outlook we saw, as well as National Monuments, Parks, etc. We didn't see "everything", but we didn't miss a whole lot either.
That is what I've been told as well.
Both of my windshields were replaced before I bought my coach, and they don't quite fit perfectly. They also don't leak. Friends that have had their windshield's replaced have mentioned gaps of 1/4 inch or more at the curves where they could seen thru the gaps between the new glass and the fiberglass front cap. It is just something we have to live with.
The alternator on your engine is designed to bring the battery back up to 80% faster than the generator and converter. That said, the alternator on the engine can overheat if you don't run the engine at 1200 rpm or so. It just wasn't designed to recharge an almost dead battery at low rpm.
The suggestion to use your generator for two hours in the morning and two hours in the evening is a good one. That's what we've done. It won't bring your battery up to a full charge, but good enough. Adding a second battery is also a good suggestion.
Yes, basic physics (impossible to overcome with hope or even good advertising) dictates that the worse the WB/OL (Wheelbase/Overall length) ratio, the more likely that there will be handling issues, particularly under adverse conditions such as cross winds.
BUT, handling, ride, etc are all SUBJECTIVE. So, many with both good WB/OL and those with poor WB/OL can honestly post that their handling is "fine".
So, given that everything else is the same (suspension, weight distribution, etc) WB/OL IS, repeat IS important.
Can a poor WB/OL be overcome with expensive suspensions-- sure. I know Foretravel made a 34' DP that did reasonably well. But 8 outboard air bags, 8 shocks, etc made for a pretty costly upgrade.
Best advice is to drive any on your short list UNDER LESS THAN IDEAL CONDITIONS-- on smooth roads and no cross winds, they all do just fine. Same thing we did in shopping for sailboats-- scheduled sea trials when the weather forecast was poor.
We have a 35 ft that we've owned for 11 years. It's worked out fine for us, but a longer coach (with a longer wheel base) would be better. I've also owned boats, and the advice to do sea trials in foul weather is excellent.
I previously used extenders until one leaked and caused a tire to go flat while parked. It could have caused some major damage, but I caught it before driving off.
The commercial tire place recommended I not use the extenders saying they leak too frequently to be reliable. Apparently, the extenders rub on the outside tire wheel where they go thru the hole in the wheel and that's where they fail.
Instead, get a commercial type pressure gauge that allows you to reach in and check or fill a tire without using an extender. They are very inexpensive.
Do as donn0128 suggested. Tail lights and running lights are generic.
Not exactly true...My tail light lenses are from a Lincoln Navigator. However OEMs will NOT fit. The housings would have to be modified for the OEMs to work. My lenses are for a Navigator but are made by TYC. The back side of the lens housing is just different enough the OEM will not work. If you remove the housing, they have all the info stamped on the back side....Dennis
The poster has a 1994 HR, and I have a 1993 HR. When I went to replace my broken running/brake lights, I bought replacements at NAPA. I suspect HR didn't go to specialty suppliers until later, perhaps after they were bought by Monaco.
I have a 1993 HR Navigator, which is almost identical to this Imperial. (Navigator is at the top, Imperial is the next step down.) I previously owned a 1989 Imperial, and have owned our Navigator for over 10 years.
If it was taken care of, you may have found a real jewel that could serve you for many, many years. Spend the money with Cummins to check out the engine.
The Spartan chassis is strong as is the 3060 Allison transmission. If the afore mentioned roof leak didn't do any damage, you should be good to go. It is a very well built rig.
I assume you are asking about a 12 Volt, not amp (amperage) ground connection.
Electrical problems are frequently caused by a faulty ground which is generally caused by corrosion. Rust is the most obvious, but it can be lead oxide on a battery post, which is "lead rust" instead of iron rust.
If your instrument indicates a minimum of resistance at a ground, it is testing the ground at a very low amperage. So, yes, a higher amperage test might indicate a complete failure instead of a limited failure that a low amperage test would show.
Bottom line. Just take the connection apart, scrape and clean the surfaces, and reassemble. Ditto with the battery grounds.
Since you have no access to power at the storage site, you can either use a solar panel to keep the battery charged, or take the battery out and take it home. At home, put it on a trickle charger. A trickle charger is the preferred method.
While living in Yuma, friends of ours did a comparison between their propane furnace and portable electric space heaters, and found the electric heaters to be more efficient overall, but the cost (to them) was about the same as the cost of the electricity was high due to a sir-charge by the park's management. The propane would have been more expensive if it had been delivered, but instead they had portable tanks refilled and transported the tanks themselves. Eventually they found the frequent chore of refilling the tanks not worth the trouble. (They still used propane to cook and run the refrigerator, but weekly use was significantly less.)
Other friends who have their own lots, where they pay the basic electrical charge from the utility, have found electricity to be cheaper than propane for heating. The cost difference was a little more than half the cost of propane. I don't know how diligent they were in record keeping, or if it was for a whole winter season. Further, they had to pay a minimum fee each month, even when they used little or now power.
RW310, you would have had more credibility if you hadn't mentioned the name of the competitor. Your posting sounds more like an advertisement for the competitor, especially since you are a new member and this was your first post.
I don't want to discourage you from making postings and sharing your experiences. That is what this board is for. Just keep in mind some people won't follow the rules about advertising, so the monitors have to act accordingly.
I agree with you, and in the same order you gave. Good luck.
(The belt is the cheapest and easiest to replace. The tensioner is second in both cost and difficulty. Finally, the clutch is the most expensive and the most difficult.)
We liked Shangra La RV Resort in the Foothills, east of Yuma. They have a pool, activities, 50 amp power, full hookups, etc. However, there are perhaps 30 or more parks in the Foothills that are similar, plus another 20 or more parks in Yuma itself. Those in Yuma tend to be older and not quite as "nice". However, they are closer to the stores and Alcodonis, Mexico.
It is a solenoid. There are two kinds, one that is designed to operate intermittently, like for starting the engine, and one that is designed to stay on constantly, like that needed to power things like wipers, heater blower, etc., that you want on when the engine is running, but off when the key is off.
The are very, very common. I've bought some replacements at NAPA, but any good auto parts place will have what you need.
Consider Yuma, Arizona. There are many, perhaps 100+ RV parks in the immediate area around Yuma, and very, very few have fire pits. However, it isn't a place you would want to stay during the summer since temperatures can get unbearable. From November to March it is very pleasant.
Washington has one of the higher tax rates, but we don't have an income tax (yet). And, our state sales tax is about 9%, but the actual rate varies with local option taxes. Somehow, somebody has to pay for all these "benefits" our government provides, including the "free" roads.