I must have 10 or so of these free Harbor Freight meters, with most still in their display packaging. (They were free without having to buy anything up until late last year.) I use them frequently. I don't depend on the meter to give me an exact readout, and most of the time an accurate reading isn't that important anyway. They come in handy to determine if a circuit is hot, or ground is functioning.
Besides, you can't beat the price. (Even if you have to buy something else now, it is still a good deal.)
We stayed at Shangrila in the past for several years and would recommend the park. The spaces are not that tight, or not as tight as I've seen in other parks. The spaces provide enough space to park your car next to your coach, even if you have the awning out.
Shangraila is out in the Foothills, about 15 minutes from downtown Yuma. Most of the newer parks are out in the Foothills.
No, I don't know of any A/C that turns the fan off.
When your A/C is running, the compressor causes the coils to get cold on one side, possibly causing a build up of frost, and heat on the other side. The fan not only circulates the air but defrosts the cold coils and cools the hot side. The fan needs to run all the time to avoid problems.
You could try turning the fan speed down, but keep in mind that you may then have problems with the coils freezing up, especially in humid weather.
First off, almost all solar panels will only produce enough electricity to keep a charged battery charged up, but not to re-charge a run down battery.
Second thing, solar panels are big and expensive. Unless you are willing to spend some serious money on panels that will set out on stands pointing at the sun and storing them when you are not there, forget that option.
Third. I'd suggest what most people who dry camp a lot do. Buy a Honda or Yamaha "quiet" generator and charge your battery(s) for an hour or so in the morning and evening.
Go9ing off topic here, but if you plan to do a lot of dry camping, consider switching to two 6 volt deep cycle batteries if your rig doesn't already have them. They work much better than 12 volt batteries, even if they are marked "deep cycle".
I would suggest looking for a tow bar that stays on the coach instead of the front of your CRV when not in use. Almost all of the newer, more expensive tow bars are the type that stay on the coach.
As others have posted, stick with the two well known brands (Roadmaster or Blue OX) and make it sure it is in good condition.
Without reservations, your best bet might be to drive along and check the private campgrounds along the coast. The state parks might be a better/cheaper choice, but most will be full from those who made reservations.
The national forests offer camping without a reservation system, using a "first come - first served" policy. Most of the sites are very primitive. I would assume you'd want something to keep your kids involved, such as a river or the ocean beaches.
Thanks tcooper and Brett. At this point I think I'll just let the local Freightliner dealer take a look at it and see what they think. I'll suggest adjusting the steering box, but I'll let them do any adjusting.
I originally thought all I had to do was loosen the lock net, turn the set screw down to the end of travel and then back off 1/2 turn or so. But, apparently, that is not a good option since, as randallb pointed out, that screw is for the setup of the box.
YC 1, that video from TRW was very helpful. Thanks. However, I don't think I have a TRW, although the adjustment screw looks identical.
However, like randallb suggested, adjusting the adjustment screw may not be a good idea. So, I think I'll error on the side of safety and avoid changing the settings.
Dakdave, thanks for the tip. I think I'll take my coach down to the local Freightliner dealer and have them check the bellcrank, as well as the rest of the steering components. I'm getting too old and tired to muscle parts off and on under the coach, so I'll let some young buck do the dirty work.
Prior to this last year or two, the Honda CRV was towable. It seems to be a very popular choice. We have a 2012 CRV, and although it is towable, our Hummer serves that need and we haven't had any reason to set the Honda up.
I have a 1993 HR Navigator on a Spartan Mountain Master chassis. My steering gear has an adjusting screw on the side, which I assume is to take out any looseness or slack in the steering. Does anyone know what the settings are? That is, how far do I back off the center screw after it makes contact? I'm assuming something like 1/2 turn would be enough, but I don't want to experiment only to have the steering lock up on me at a very inappropriate time.
I've had a frame shop check the front end and the alignment, and all is within specifications. I've even raised the front end up and checked for any worn or loose parts and everything seems tight and in good shape. (I do the lubrication myself, so I know all the zert fittings have been serviced.)
Before calling tech support, I'd suggest deleting your cookies. To do that, go to your internet browser, tools, Internet Options, browsing history.
If that didn't help much, use Task Manager to find out what is slowing things down. To do that, hold down Ctrl, Alt, and Delete. Click on Task Manager. You should look at Processes and see how much memory is being used. If you have a memory hog that you aren't using, you can temporarily turn it off by clicking on Startup and taking if off the menu. It will still be in your computer and usable, just not running all the time.
Finally, I'd update your 8.0. It's free. Just go to Microsoft's update site. You don't need to upgrade, just update.
I've bought replacements at NAPA. They were the two wire kind that didn't depend on the chassis for a ground. It has been a number of years, but I remember the cost was very modest and nothing to loose sleep over. The LED's are a little more expensive.
If you have a shop vacuum, try blowing air down the vent. The pressure shouldn't hurt anything and if the problem is in the vent to the roof, it might clear it out. (You have a vent to allow air to escape from the tank so water/waste will flow in.) A blocked vent from a bird's nest can cause your shower and kitchen sinks to drain very slow. Ditto with the toilet drain.
We tow a Hummer H3 since it has a strong frame, plenty of ground clearance, and easy to put into towing mode. (Just push a button to disconnect the drive train.) Further, it is a nice daily driver since it is comfortable and rides well. I would assume the Jeep would be similar.
Another choice would be the Honda CRV. You'll see a lot of those being towed. The CRV makes for a nice primary car. The Saturns use to be towable, but not all.
No, I'm not going away. I stand by my statement. I've been using PCs for 27 years, since DOS 3.1. I know a piece of******when I see one and Windows 8.1 is a piece of crap. It was written to try to force people into using tablets. It was written for touchscreen tablets. Tablets DO NOT have mice. This is not "bad gas". It's more like trying to use the engine from a Honda Civic in your TV. It MIGHT work, but you will never be happy with it. It is simply a bad operating system being forced on people who don't realize they have options.
No offense, but I just have to join in here. I've also been using PCs since 3.1, and have used most of the Windows OS since they were introduced, including 8.1. I don't have a touch screen and use a mouse, yet 8.1 works just fine. I have Windows 7 on my laptop, and it works almost the same as 8.1. I will admit 8.1 was designed for touch pads, but our touch pads are all Apple products, and smart phones are Android, so I don't have any experience with the 8.1 and touchpad technology.
So, it is a matter of getting current with the technology. I know it can be frustrating, but be patient.
Going back to the original post, I would suggest cleaning out your Internet History and Cookies. Those are common causes of overloaded RAM.
If that doesn't help, try the Task Manager. (Control, Alternate, Delete.) See what is running and how much of the resources are being used. Check the startup menu for a program that's hogging RAM. Good luck.
Forget the trailer with the SLS. The combination would just be too heavy. Consider a lightweight car that can be towed four down. Even then you'll have to have the frame reinforced. Those Class C coaches on 28' chassis were not designed for heavy duty towing.
Your tanks may have a combination of propane and butane. Propane is fine as it will "boil" at a very low temperature, but butane stops boiling at about 32 degrees F. In warm weather, using either fluid is fine and distributors mix the two. You may have burnt off all of the propane and all you have now in your tank is butane. The only solution now is to heat the tank up to about 40 degrees or better. Or, have a propane distributor drain and refill your tank.
You could have moisture in your tank and that could freeze your regulator. I don't know how to correct that problem except to empty the tank. A propane distributor may be able to do that for you.
Finally, don't insulate your tanks. They need to absorb heat from the air even at below freezing temperatures to boil the propane. If you're going to heat your tanks, then insulation may be needed to keep the heat in.
From your description, it appears your frig's cooler coils are overheating. I'd suggest installing several small computer type fans to the inside of the lower vent cover, using nylon ties. Connect the fans to a switch and to the 12 volt supply. You can turn the fans on during the day and off at night.
You could also install two of the larger fans on top of your cooling coils on the back of the frig and connect them to a thermal couple to automatically turn the fans on and off. This would require removing the frig into the coach to access the coils on the top. However, many newer coaches have these fans installed during assembly, and it probably would be the preferred method for you or others updating their coaches.