Like most of us, you probably have particle board under the carpet. As a result, I would suggest a "dry" carpet cleaning machine, which uses a sawdust material. They are available for rent here at supermarkets. The other option would be to use just a little water and quickly vacuum it up, using the least amount of shampoo or soap you possibly can.
I've used Simple Green, but only a tiny amount, to get stains to dissolve in the water to be vacuumed up. I've then had to re-moist and re-vacuum over and over again to get all the soap up. So, if you decide on this method, to save you a lot of work, try just using warm/hot water sprayed on the carpet, a small section at a time, and then vacuum it up. I do sections of about a foot or two foot square each time.
Just be careful not to use a lot of water. And, the less soap the better. Much less soap. No matter how much soap you use, it will be too much. Soap residue attracts dirt like a magnet.
10 at 45 mph, 8-9 at 55, and 7 at 65 in the East. Take 0.5 off in the western mountains.
Actual experience will depend on how you drive, the kind of roads you are on, and the weight of your coach. But, 8 to 10 is a reasonable estimate as mentioned above.
I agree with both Golden HVAC and wintersun.
Buy two 6 volt wet cell deep cycle batteries and an inverter/converter. Using a Honda generator for times of high amperage use is a very good suggestion. If the price of the Honda is not in your budget, then one of the cheap Chinese knock-offs at less than half the price might work. Keep in mind they are cheaper for a reason.
Solar panels are a more expensive and complicated solution, but are totally quiet and can charge the batteries up to 100%. (Your generator will charge wet cell batteries quickly up to 80%, but then it is very slow for the last 20%.)
My understand is the 2005 was the last year Honda gave towing instruction in the owner's manual. The 2006 and later years Owner's manuals indicate they can't be towed.
I understand the suspension system was changed, as well as possibly the transmission, which won't tolerate towing. Also, some owners of the 2005 and earlier models complained of frame weld failure problems, possibly due to the strain of being pulled around. A Honda dealer's salesman told me in 2006 that the 2006 model was towable, and they would just quote the 2005 manual. So, so much for salesmen. (I also didn't buy a Honda, but a Hummer, which can be towed.)
Wish I knew more and had specific facts to quote, but I don't.
It should have an inverter/converter, as almost all newer Class A rigs do. If not, wiring "should" be in place to have one installed.
As for the Flexsteel chairs, you may want to check out new chairs at a RV furniture business in Long Beach, California. They may be cheaper than having your existing chairs recovered. The new chairs should bolt right in on your existing brackets.
The macerator is for grinding up waste and pumping it to a dump site that may be uphill or some distance from your RV. It also makes it easier for a septic system to begin the conversion process. Otherwise, a macerator isn't really needed. I had one on my boat (to pump up to a sewer system while at the dock), but I've never had one on my coaches and never needed one. So, it is up to you to use it or not.
I don't know anything about "Tank Techs RX" or any other such product.
I'm assuming you want to clean out the tank due to a problem with the sensor. If that's the problem, fill about half full with warm water and some dishwashing soap, and pull your rig around several turns as well as several stop and go cycles. That might clean the sensor.
The other potential problem has to do with leaving the drain valve open while connected to the sewer system at a campground. Doing that allows a build up of tissue and solid material called a "pyramid". Dissolving a pile of debris requires leaving the tank nearly full for several days and then dumping. Obviously, one doesn't want to open the drain valve until the tank is nearly full, or you are leaving the campground.
Consumer's Reports did a report several years ago on the various qualities of TP, including how fast it dissolved.
But, who cares? Our RV's have HOLDING tanks, not septic systems. TP won't block your plumbing or cause a plug since the discharge pipes are three inches in diameter. All TP will dissolve in time, so use whatever you like.
We use Charmin or Cottonelle, just like our stick house. (It's what the girls like.)
Since your electric steps also won't work (from your previous post), I'm going to assume it is due to a failed relay. When you turn your key, a relay turns power on to some things (like your windshield wipers) and turns off power to other things (like your leveling jacks). I'm not familiar with your coach, but in my coach the relays look like tiny beer cans with a copper bolt on each side and two much smaller bolts near the bottom. You should have several, perhaps four or more. They eventually wear out, like a starter solenoid on a car. In fact, the look very similar.
Checking them is actually quite easy. Just have someone turn the key and listen. When you hear the clicking, you've found the relay responsible. If they are working, then you'll need to check to see if power is being passed thru or not.
You've come to the right place! Just start asking specific questions.
In the meantime, check out the questions and responses posted on the Snowbird topic, just as you did here. You may find many of your answers there.
I'm not familiar with Outdoor Travel or their program. But, why would these firms want you to buy the rig for them? To keep their investment costs down and maximize profits.
The basic concept of having you buy the RV and the firm renting it out, with them keeping their percentage of the rental fees, and you keeping the cost of maintenance and repairs, as well as paying off the loan, hasn't changed over the years. You are taking most of the risk and they are making most of the money. Further, renters are notoriously poor RV operators. After all, it isn't their rig.
So, in five years you'll have a five year old rig that has had 15 or 20 years of use and is worn out, but you still have most of the loan to pay off. Good luck.
About six years ago, some friends of ours had their Class A painted out in the open at the back of the RV park in Rocky Point. I don't know if this was the same park or group of painters you are referring to or not. The finished product was cheap and looked cheap. From a distance, it didn't look all that bad. But, from 15 feet or less, it was not very smooth or professional looking. As mentioned earlier, it was painted outside without drying lamps.
If you'd like a "better" job, try the paint shop in Alcodones, just across the border from Yuma. You go into town, turn right at the stop sign, and go about 6 blocks. He has a booth and a locked facility. One motorhome he painted looked almost as good as new, but the cost was $5K, and that was five years ago. A Jeep he painted four years ago looked like it was the original paint job, and the charge was $350 (if I remember correctly).
We've boondocked in an area set aside by the BLM for those staying less than two weeks. It is about two miles north of Quartzsite and on the east side. The area covers several square miles, so it isn't crowded. The areas on both side of the road for several miles south of Quartzsite is set up for long term boondocking, and you have to pay a modest fee to the BLM for the privilege of parking out in the middle of "no-where".
The vendors seem to reach their maximum sales efforts in January. Many of the vendors work out of tents or simple, portable shelters, but there are some permanent buildings. It may take two or three days to visit most of them.
One thing that will totally surprise you is the number of RVs out in the desert. The local Yuma paper indicates the population grows by over a million during the winter season, and I think many of them are there in Quartzsite for January. You just won't believe how many there are, much less all in one place.
About the only "bad" I've heard about was from a Deputy Sheriff who warned against generator theft. Even when a generator is chained to the truck or 5th wheel, crooks can cut the chain, grab the generator and drive off before the owner can get out of his RV.
My guess would be an overloaded automatic resetting circuit breaker that trips, resets, and then restores power. When it does, both A/C units are in start up mode which causes an excessive amperage drain and voltage drop resulting in the automatic shut off of one of the units.
What can you do? Not sure. It depends on where the automatic circuit breaker is at.
You could try by-passing the breaker by drawing power to your RV from two electrical posts, and devoting one post to each air conditioning unit.
Or, there are electrical devices that will correct for low voltage by increasing the output voltage to a full 120. That device would be installed between the power post and your RV, probably at the point where the power cord is plugged in to your RV.
Yuma is a great place to spend the winter, not only due to the favorable weather but the cost of living is modest due to the abundance of cheap labor. Other areas of Arizona can be just as enjoyable but cooler at night due to the higher elevation and cost of living is slightly higher.
I also have a 1993 coach, and replaced my Midland dryer with a new Bendix just for preventive reasons some 8 or 9 years ago. The old dryer was clean.
Loosing five pounds over 30 minutes isn't that bad. The purging is something I haven't noticed, although I assume it functions on a regular basis. Rather than repair your old dryer, I'd suggest just replacing it like I did.
This has been discussed here on the forum many times and the most common and accepted answer for a shotgun in the RV seems to be that; it can't be within reach of the driver, it can't be "sawed off" (or have a barrel of less than "x" inches), and it can't be loaded with a round in the chamber.
As for your RV being your "home" and exempt from illegal search and seizure, the courts have ruled that an RV on the road (or movable) is not protected and can be searched without a warrant by a LEO if he/she has probable cause. If the RV is on blocks and can't be moved, then the LEO has to get a warrant.
The GFI (ground fault interrupter) outlet in your RV is not dependent on the 120 volt power plug adapter's, unless you have disconnected the ground or crossed the wires somehow.
The adapter should allow 1/2 of your RV to be powered by the 15 amp source and the other half by the 30 amp source. Fifty amp power means the RV has two circuits that can draw 50 amps each, but they are not "combined" since that would give you 240 volts, and that would destroy your RV's electrical system. (That is, unless you have a VERY high end coach with a 240 volt system.)
As DSDP Don suggested, it may not have the Cummins but a Navistar. Navistar is owned by International Harvester, but the engines were of a new design and reliability could be an issue.
As for price, look it up on the NADA web site for some basic info. You could check PPL's web site for sold units to see what similar coaches have sold for recently.