I previously used extenders until one leaked and caused a tire to go flat while parked. It could have caused some major damage, but I caught it before driving off.
The commercial tire place recommended I not use the extenders saying they leak too frequently to be reliable. Apparently, the extenders rub on the outside tire wheel where they go thru the hole in the wheel and that's where they fail.
Instead, get a commercial type pressure gauge that allows you to reach in and check or fill a tire without using an extender. They are very inexpensive.
Do as donn0128 suggested. Tail lights and running lights are generic.
Not exactly true...My tail light lenses are from a Lincoln Navigator. However OEMs will NOT fit. The housings would have to be modified for the OEMs to work. My lenses are for a Navigator but are made by TYC. The back side of the lens housing is just different enough the OEM will not work. If you remove the housing, they have all the info stamped on the back side....Dennis
The poster has a 1994 HR, and I have a 1993 HR. When I went to replace my broken running/brake lights, I bought replacements at NAPA. I suspect HR didn't go to specialty suppliers until later, perhaps after they were bought by Monaco.
I have a 1993 HR Navigator, which is almost identical to this Imperial. (Navigator is at the top, Imperial is the next step down.) I previously owned a 1989 Imperial, and have owned our Navigator for over 10 years.
If it was taken care of, you may have found a real jewel that could serve you for many, many years. Spend the money with Cummins to check out the engine.
The Spartan chassis is strong as is the 3060 Allison transmission. If the afore mentioned roof leak didn't do any damage, you should be good to go. It is a very well built rig.
I assume you are asking about a 12 Volt, not amp (amperage) ground connection.
Electrical problems are frequently caused by a faulty ground which is generally caused by corrosion. Rust is the most obvious, but it can be lead oxide on a battery post, which is "lead rust" instead of iron rust.
If your instrument indicates a minimum of resistance at a ground, it is testing the ground at a very low amperage. So, yes, a higher amperage test might indicate a complete failure instead of a limited failure that a low amperage test would show.
Bottom line. Just take the connection apart, scrape and clean the surfaces, and reassemble. Ditto with the battery grounds.
Since you have no access to power at the storage site, you can either use a solar panel to keep the battery charged, or take the battery out and take it home. At home, put it on a trickle charger. A trickle charger is the preferred method.
While living in Yuma, friends of ours did a comparison between their propane furnace and portable electric space heaters, and found the electric heaters to be more efficient overall, but the cost (to them) was about the same as the cost of the electricity was high due to a sir-charge by the park's management. The propane would have been more expensive if it had been delivered, but instead they had portable tanks refilled and transported the tanks themselves. Eventually they found the frequent chore of refilling the tanks not worth the trouble. (They still used propane to cook and run the refrigerator, but weekly use was significantly less.)
Other friends who have their own lots, where they pay the basic electrical charge from the utility, have found electricity to be cheaper than propane for heating. The cost difference was a little more than half the cost of propane. I don't know how diligent they were in record keeping, or if it was for a whole winter season. Further, they had to pay a minimum fee each month, even when they used little or now power.
RW310, you would have had more credibility if you hadn't mentioned the name of the competitor. Your posting sounds more like an advertisement for the competitor, especially since you are a new member and this was your first post.
I don't want to discourage you from making postings and sharing your experiences. That is what this board is for. Just keep in mind some people won't follow the rules about advertising, so the monitors have to act accordingly.
I agree with you, and in the same order you gave. Good luck.
(The belt is the cheapest and easiest to replace. The tensioner is second in both cost and difficulty. Finally, the clutch is the most expensive and the most difficult.)
We liked Shangra La RV Resort in the Foothills, east of Yuma. They have a pool, activities, 50 amp power, full hookups, etc. However, there are perhaps 30 or more parks in the Foothills that are similar, plus another 20 or more parks in Yuma itself. Those in Yuma tend to be older and not quite as "nice". However, they are closer to the stores and Alcodonis, Mexico.
It is a solenoid. There are two kinds, one that is designed to operate intermittently, like for starting the engine, and one that is designed to stay on constantly, like that needed to power things like wipers, heater blower, etc., that you want on when the engine is running, but off when the key is off.
The are very, very common. I've bought some replacements at NAPA, but any good auto parts place will have what you need.
Consider Yuma, Arizona. There are many, perhaps 100+ RV parks in the immediate area around Yuma, and very, very few have fire pits. However, it isn't a place you would want to stay during the summer since temperatures can get unbearable. From November to March it is very pleasant.
Washington has one of the higher tax rates, but we don't have an income tax (yet). And, our state sales tax is about 9%, but the actual rate varies with local option taxes. Somehow, somebody has to pay for all these "benefits" our government provides, including the "free" roads.
Your eng should start easily down to -40 with grid heaters - about -30 without them so syn oil isn't really needed.
You also have an eng that will go 700,000 to well over 1 million miles with normal maint. So it isn't really needed for longevity either.
I tried in in two Cummins I owned but neither one got any better mileage or showed any kind of change.
But if your the type that just likes to use the very best to take care of his toys (and I sure repect that!) then go for it. It sure wont hurt.
X2 (Couldn't have said it any better.)
Absorption refrigerators are efficient users of electrical power, which powers the control unit, and propane (for cooling), but are slow to cool down from startup. Adding fans, both inside and outside, will improve efficiency and uniform cooling. Since RVs are frequently used where electricity is limited to batteries, household type (using a compressor and Freon) refrigerators are impractical. If an owner has a large enough coach with a large (six or eight 6 volt batteries), and is willing to recharge this battery bank frequently, then a residential type is preferred.
Costco and Sam's Club are both good resources for batteries.
If you can locate the Interstate Battery Distributor in your area, call them and ask about returned or blemished batteries. You can save up to half the retail price.
You'll have to change the setup. For some reason, the difference in voltage requires a different setting.
Call Fisher-Paykel. They are very customer friendly.
(I installed a FP "dishdrawer" 10 years ago and the wife LOVES it.)
Keeping the processor cool is the key. The heat sinks installed by the manufacturers are just enough to make it work briefly. I install after market cooling fans with bigger heat sinks. Also, make sure you vacuum out the case frequently. Dust is a great insulator.
Finally, I've had better luck with ASUS computers than HP, and all of my latest purchases have been of ASUS desktops and laptops.
(That having been said, I'm using an HP desktop right now but with the cover off and an Enermax cooling system installed. It's my machine of choice.)