Since you've cleaned out the burner area and the flame is now strong and blue, I think you may have solved the problem. As for the freezer being ok, the frig cools the freezer first, then the fridge. So, you may just have to give it some more time.
Another factor may be the temperature outside. If it is over 80 or 90 degrees, your frig is going to have some difficulty keeping the frig at the correct temperature. A solution would be to install a fan to the outside lower vent to blow air into the back compartment and help the natural chimney effect that would normally cause the warm air to escape and cooler air enter.
I have a 1993 HR Navigator with the mechanical 8.3 cubic inch 300 Hp Cummins and the 3060 Allison. The combination is bullet proof if it is properly maintained. We've only had one problem in the 12 years we've owned the coach, and that's when the computer control (which is under the touch pad) went bad about three years ago. The replacement was about $1,000. I've replaced all the transmission relays (in the black 6X6 box) with new relays just as a preventive measure. The relays were the same as all the others in my coach and I bought 24 in a box for about a $1 each on e-bay several years ago, so I had extras. I replace the transmission fluid about every 50K miles.
The Monaco you described has the 400 ISL, a slightly larger engine but just as reliable as the ISC, the newer version of my mechanical version. The Allison 3000 series (probably you'll have the 3060 which has an overdrive 6th gear) is the transmission of choice on almost all motorhomes and many, many medium duty trucks.
You'll love your Monaco. Since you do much of your own maintenance, it should last you as long as you'll want.
I understand the motor is a standard part to an electric window system on an American car, possibly one of the GM brands. I recall someone replacing the motor (and gear assembly) with one from an auto parts store, and it was a lot cheaper than ordering one from Kwikee.
As for lubricating the steps, I totally agree. Almost every time I've had a problem with the steps, it has been due to a bad ground or lack of lubrication. I just clean the ground and re-lube the friction points, and they then work fine.
We towed a Mustang convertible for some 6 years without a braking system and never had a problem. My understanding is a braking system is required if the car (trailer) weighs more than 3,000 lbs. The Mustang weighed about that much.
We replaced the Mustang with a Hummer, which weighs about 4,600 lbs, and we use a Roadmaster braking system connected to our air brakes on the coach. It works great.
I was warned by several friends not to use the box type that fits in front of the driver's seat and depends on changes in inertia to detect a braking action and press down on the brake pedal. Apparently, they frequently fail and apply the brakes when not required. Still, a lot of RV owners use these systems. They connect to the power outlet in the dash and can be moved to any towed vehicle, so they don't require any modifications to either vehicle.
If the distributor cap is arcing then spark would show but maybe at the wrong plug at the wrong time.
I would try new Distributor cap and rotor as the first thing.
When you do diagnose please post the cure to add to my knowledge base as I have the same motor
This would also be my recommendation. It's easy, cheap and there is a strong possibility the cause of your problem. If not, you've eliminated a possible contribution to the problem and you can focus on timing, stuck float level, failed fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, and so on. Good luck.
As soon as you disconnect the negative from the battery (1), all is dead....
Correct. Disconnect the negative wire to ground (vehicle chassis) first and that way if you should inadvertently touch a positive wire to the chassis, nothing will happen. So, negative wire off the post first.
You can call Fisher Paykel. I've called them in the past (well, several years ago) and they were most helpful. My dishdrawer also acts up occasionally, but I've found it is sometimes due to the water pressure setting (my pump has a lower pressure than city water) can cause it to quit after a few seconds. I have to set it for low pressure if the water is provided by the pump.
My coach is 22 years old (1993) and has an HWH system. It is all original, with the original cylinders and springs. But, I have maintained it properly. I've changed the fluid (it only takes a gallon of HD3) and lubricated all the pivot points. I've also sprayed the exposed shafts of the cylinders with silicone every time I've extended them. That keeps the seals lubricated.
I had to replace one of the relays (and have many, many relays -all the same) but I considered that to be just a minor maintenance item due to age. I bought a box of 24 relays on the internet and I must have used half of them by now.
No, not to my knowledge. The air dryer has a filter that normally would be replaced every "x" number of miles on a commercial truck, but the amount of use your coach gets, the filter will last a life time. The coach chassis has to be lubricated, including the braking components, but that is something the technician will do as part of your routine preventive maintenance.
(My coach is a 1993 and I replaced my MIdland air drier some 10 years ago just a preventive measure. When I took it apart, it was clean and didn't need to be replaced. I installed a new Bendix dryer. Since these dryers are used by garbage trucks that stop every 50 feet, they get a LOT of use. Even those trucks only replace the filter once a year.)
I must have 10 or so of these free Harbor Freight meters, with most still in their display packaging. (They were free without having to buy anything up until late last year.) I use them frequently. I don't depend on the meter to give me an exact readout, and most of the time an accurate reading isn't that important anyway. They come in handy to determine if a circuit is hot, or ground is functioning.
Besides, you can't beat the price. (Even if you have to buy something else now, it is still a good deal.)
We stayed at Shangrila in the past for several years and would recommend the park. The spaces are not that tight, or not as tight as I've seen in other parks. The spaces provide enough space to park your car next to your coach, even if you have the awning out.
Shangraila is out in the Foothills, about 15 minutes from downtown Yuma. Most of the newer parks are out in the Foothills.
No, I don't know of any A/C that turns the fan off.
When your A/C is running, the compressor causes the coils to get cold on one side, possibly causing a build up of frost, and heat on the other side. The fan not only circulates the air but defrosts the cold coils and cools the hot side. The fan needs to run all the time to avoid problems.
You could try turning the fan speed down, but keep in mind that you may then have problems with the coils freezing up, especially in humid weather.
First off, almost all solar panels will only produce enough electricity to keep a charged battery charged up, but not to re-charge a run down battery.
Second thing, solar panels are big and expensive. Unless you are willing to spend some serious money on panels that will set out on stands pointing at the sun and storing them when you are not there, forget that option.
Third. I'd suggest what most people who dry camp a lot do. Buy a Honda or Yamaha "quiet" generator and charge your battery(s) for an hour or so in the morning and evening.
Go9ing off topic here, but if you plan to do a lot of dry camping, consider switching to two 6 volt deep cycle batteries if your rig doesn't already have them. They work much better than 12 volt batteries, even if they are marked "deep cycle".
I would suggest looking for a tow bar that stays on the coach instead of the front of your CRV when not in use. Almost all of the newer, more expensive tow bars are the type that stay on the coach.
As others have posted, stick with the two well known brands (Roadmaster or Blue OX) and make it sure it is in good condition.
Without reservations, your best bet might be to drive along and check the private campgrounds along the coast. The state parks might be a better/cheaper choice, but most will be full from those who made reservations.
The national forests offer camping without a reservation system, using a "first come - first served" policy. Most of the sites are very primitive. I would assume you'd want something to keep your kids involved, such as a river or the ocean beaches.
Thanks tcooper and Brett. At this point I think I'll just let the local Freightliner dealer take a look at it and see what they think. I'll suggest adjusting the steering box, but I'll let them do any adjusting.
I originally thought all I had to do was loosen the lock net, turn the set screw down to the end of travel and then back off 1/2 turn or so. But, apparently, that is not a good option since, as randallb pointed out, that screw is for the setup of the box.
YC 1, that video from TRW was very helpful. Thanks. However, I don't think I have a TRW, although the adjustment screw looks identical.
However, like randallb suggested, adjusting the adjustment screw may not be a good idea. So, I think I'll error on the side of safety and avoid changing the settings.
Dakdave, thanks for the tip. I think I'll take my coach down to the local Freightliner dealer and have them check the bellcrank, as well as the rest of the steering components. I'm getting too old and tired to muscle parts off and on under the coach, so I'll let some young buck do the dirty work.
Prior to this last year or two, the Honda CRV was towable. It seems to be a very popular choice. We have a 2012 CRV, and although it is towable, our Hummer serves that need and we haven't had any reason to set the Honda up.
I have a 1993 HR Navigator on a Spartan Mountain Master chassis. My steering gear has an adjusting screw on the side, which I assume is to take out any looseness or slack in the steering. Does anyone know what the settings are? That is, how far do I back off the center screw after it makes contact? I'm assuming something like 1/2 turn would be enough, but I don't want to experiment only to have the steering lock up on me at a very inappropriate time.
I've had a frame shop check the front end and the alignment, and all is within specifications. I've even raised the front end up and checked for any worn or loose parts and everything seems tight and in good shape. (I do the lubrication myself, so I know all the zert fittings have been serviced.)