Seems to me most people around this site think that 100,000 miles and 10 years is an old truck.
Just wanted to get a feel if that is correct or not?
My truck is going on 14 years old and I purchased new, my first new vehicle ever. I'm expecting it to stick around at least another 4 years or 50K miles before I sell. My uncle has the same truck as me (only a V6 model) and he's got 320K on it, so I'm sure mine will make it to 150/200K miles.
Actually, now that the Ecoboost has been out for 4+ years, the miles are starting to pile up on some of them. A quick filtered search on autotrader.com showed the entire first page filled with Ecoboosts each with over 100K miles. One had 226K miles, another had 196K miles, another with 172K. You get the idea.
150K miles shouldn't be an issue for ANY engine in ANY mass production vehicle these days. My wife's previous turbocharged volvo went well over 100K miles without any engine issues, but we had to sell because we started a family and needed baby seat room. I still see it occasionally in the area.
One last thought, if you buy an ecoboost, you'll be in good company: Ford produces 5 millionth car with EcoBoost engine
unless Ford is raising the tow ratings, I beleive the 4 cyl turbos were rated at 2000lbs?
Maybe I am mistaken?
The 2.0 Edge Ecoboost is limited to 1,500 lbs. We have one, and I'd be comfortable with 2K lbs. behind it. It has the same peak torque and hp numbers as my 4.6 V8 Explorer.
Ask around if the Ford Ecoboost is delivering fuel mileage as promised? The few people I know with Ecoboost are not getting anywhere near the promised mileage. The fun factor appears to be high, gas mileage low.
I guess it depends on your expectations. My wife drives our 2013 Edge with 2.0 ecoboost in town, exclusively in peak traffic times and it's about 1 mpg below EPA city. If I drive it in the same conditions, I get about 1 or 2 MPG above city MPG rating. She also went thru brake pads in 30K miles in her old volvo, she seems to struggle with the concept of coasting up to a red light.
We've taken it on several long distance trips, and we've been able to beat the Highway rating by two or 3 MPG. In general we are pleased. EPA ratings seem to be very accurate for what we get real life.
Can't speak for the other discount programs, but at least with x-plan it is almost always the best deal. Dealer profits on X-plan sales are razor thin,
If you know how to negotiate and have the time you can get a better deal. You do know that dealers get paid, typically about 2% to participate in these X-plan type programs. The price next to the X-plan price is the employee price. It is usually $1500-1700 cheaper and they are not such good guys they are selling the vehicle to the employee cheaper than they purchased it for. You do also understand the "invoice" price they are showing you is truly not the invoice price they paid for that vehicle. "Invoice pricing" is the best car buying scam since the internet came along.
The X-plan price is a nice price, but not the best price the dealer can do. Don't believe them when they tell you that you are stealing this vehicle from them. They are still laughing all the way to the bank.
Yes, I'm fully aware of holdback and how it works. I worked at a new car dealer and learned quickly enough to know that I didn't want to make a career out of it.
Ford doesn't pay dealers to participate in X-plan, you are thinking of the A-Z plan. That's the only time Ford sends the dealer a check, because the A-Z plan price is lower than what the dealer pays for the vehicle.
Dealers will quickly lose interest in a 'buyer' who is bound and determined to get their purchase price down to 200 above the dealers cost. The amount of time (which equals money) this requires in negotiation plus real costs to the dealer like prepping the vehicle, inspecting, detailing, filling the tank, and they are typically happy to walk away from the negotiation table. The typical exception to this rule is if they really want to get rid of a vehicle. Examples are the SVT contours, Pontiac Aztek, 2013 models still on the lot in 2015.
If a dealer sold every vehicle at a 200 dollar profit they'd go out of business. If you have been able to beat the X-plan price without falling into the trap of fees/surcharges game, then congratulations, you're a 1%er.
Quick and dirty is that I was pulled over by a Game Warden on a county lake. Turns out you have to have a PFD in the kayak. I got a ticket which is a class C misdemeanor in Texas.
Talk about victimless crime. I can be in an tube in the middle of the lake and not have gotten a ticket, but because I was in a Kayak, I get a ticket. Times like these that really make it hard for me to respect all Law Enforcement. Also the law only requires you have the PFD, not that you must be wearing it.
Looks like it's gonna be around 200 dollar ticket. :R
One thing to keep in mind is that X plan, Supplier(GM), Affiliate Rewards(Dodge), are not always the cheapest, especially if they are having a sale. Those plans only work with factory rebates and not dealer rebates/discounts. If there are no sales going on they can be a nice price.
For example, this weekend the local Ford dealer had a F350 4x4 Platinum for $13k off. It would actually be more expensive by about $3k to purchase by X plan because you would be losing out on the dealer discount. It pays to shop and know how these plans work because they are not always going to be in your favor.
When Ram has their $12-14k off sales it is always going to be cheaper than using the AFF price.
Can't speak for the other discount programs, but at least with x-plan it is almost always the best deal. Only exceptions are things like left over last years models that the dealer has been unable to sell, so the dealer has to take a loss. Or a single 'loss leader' that the dealer advertises to get people in the dealership, but only one lucky person is actually able to buy, if they are lucky. Dealer profits on X-plan sales are razor thin, and typically only fleet guys are happy to do them. Most general sales guys will try to talk you out of an X-plan purchase, with promises of a 'better deal', I don't know about you, but I completely believe everything a salesman says 100% right?
For instance, my Explorer was two years old when I bought it, but it was brand new as a demo (no demand for 4x4 explorer in Houston). Sticker was 32,000. X-plan would have been about 28K and I paid 17K with a full factory warranty. This beat the heck out of the X-plan pricing, but was a very unique vehicle buying opportunity. And the dealer took a huge loss on the truck.
Wife said: "Maybe we should look at trucks again." GAME ON :)
Looked at Ram 2500 and F250 gassers.
Naturally, the only one's left on lots are white, without some of the options we want.
Been onto both sites to "Build it Now" and come up with prices.
Just wondering what the "real" build it prices would be if you went into the dealership.
Assuming the online "Builds" are retail, whereas doing it at the dealer would be working off their invoice costs?
Total newbie in this regard.....so, school me :)
We ordered the wife's 2013 Ford and I have x-plan pricing through my employer so no haggling or extra fees tacked on. We got any incentives that were available @ delivery, which was 1000 more than were available when we ordered.
You're gonna want to negotiate price before committing to purchase, just like you would if it was sitting on the lot. The only difference to me between ordering and taking one off the lot is that there is a delay before taking delivery when you order.
Enjoy which ever truck you choose, I won't try and push you towards one brand or the other, but remember to come back and update us, I love to salivate at new trucks on RV.net
It seems like with everything they have done to engines the manufactures still can't get past the old adage that there is no replacement for displacement....The 6.8 and 8.1 are probably overkill and use more gas but will not even be close to their potential so will be more relaxing to drive.
I guess that just depends on your perspective. I have no problem revving an engine past 3K RPM. I wouldn't avoid buying a V10, but I wouldn't buy it because I'm afraid of seeing RPM's above idle.
This is music to my ears at 16,000 RPM.
The actual confusion comes in with the towing capacity of the TV. Ford was useless in answering my question. What is the actual towing capacity of this TV? It did not come from the factory with a tow package but does have a class 3 hitch from the factory. Is the towing capacity 8900 if we use the proper WD equipment? Does anyone own a 2006 Expedition EB (or comparable) with the same specs that can answer this question? The manual is confusing in this regard.
The 2006 Ford towing guide, available on the ford website in PDF is very clear about the towing capacity of your Expedition. It says all 2006 expeditions are 6000 lbs, unless you have the heavy duty towing package, which upgrades the rating to 8900 for 2wd and 8600 for 4wd. So your Expedition is rated for up to 6,000 lbs. You don't have the HD package, so you don't have a 8900 lbs. towing capacity.
The HD towing package includes things like an upgraded radiator and transmission cooler, along with proper 7 way wiring and upgraded springs.
Ford link here
That and they can stay with their grandmother from time to time and we'll fly away! I was thinking Expedition is the best bet. 5000# max on the Explorer including all our goods.
I'd probably stick to the Expedition. They are plentiful, and a lot of value for your used dollars. I'm personally pleased with our Explorer, but the Expedition will give you a bit more breathing room. My Explorer is rated for 7000 lbs.
OK, I'm going to go against the grain here and state that my preference is a manual transmission, which my last 3 trucks have been. They cost less, generate WAY less heat especially under load, are extremely reliable, and are a snap to drive for an experienced driver. I drive a 2012 F-150 for a work vehicle and as much as I will admit that the newer automatics are better than they used to be, they are still not as good as a manual. I also can't help but think that these transmissions will cost a fortune in the future to rebuild/repair when the time comes, which it will especially when towing heavy.
With all due respect to those who state that they are difficult to get a heavy load moving, back a trailer into a campsite, etc. I can't help but think that they have not driven a manual transmission mated to a modern diesel with plenty of low end torque. My Cummins/6 speed manual transmission has the zero throttle launch feature which means put the transmission in the PROPER gear (not too high, especially under heavy load), and easily let the clutch out. This is easily accomplished with any heavy load on any hill and the truck does not even snort. The Cummins/manual transmission combo was a match made in heaven!
In regards to driving in heavy traffic, as long as I am watching traffic ahead and using the exhaust brake in full on mode, I can easily drop down to 15 mph in 5th gear using the exhaust brake and pull out of it without downshifting. If you are a race to each light and hit the brakes kind of driver, this method will not work for you!
Yes, the Cummins is derated on paper with the manual transmission. I drove Cummins equipped trucks with both the manual and automatic transmissions and the manual transmission did not feel any more sluggish, perhaps because of the power absorbed by the automatic. In any case, I am not at all unhappy with the power of my truck and even if I was a programmer will easily fix that when my warranty is up.
And lastly, I'm not sure why some are saying the manual transmissions are gone when Ram still offers the Cummins with a manual.
Just my 2 cents worth.
I'm with you but for much different reasons. Nothing is more irritating to be off throttle mid corner for two seconds, have the automatic upshift, then I get back in the throttle while tracking out once I'm past the apex just to have the auto shift back down a gear. Too much shifting and ALWAYS at the wrong time. It can easily upset the balance of the car which is critically important when driving on the edge.
As long as my brain still functions and I have the option, I'll choose the Manual transmission, at least for my 'fun car'. I gave up on truck manuals in 2002, because it wasn't an option with the V8 in the Explorer.
Did the first two responses even read the whole post? I cannot think of any way in which the Explorer Sport would be a downgrade from a minivan except fuel consumption. Should be a great match for any single axle 3500GVWR trailer.
Her prior posts for backgroud.
Thanks for posting that. I've brought her quote over from another thread:
Hello - We have a small camper - the 16 foot Amerilite, which only weighs 2300 pounds. We are currently towing with our 2011 Nissan Quest minivan (which is a v6).
We have always felt that the minivan is really dragging when we are towing the camper. We only drive about 60 mph, but it still doesn't feel right. We do have a weight distribution hitch and sway bar too.
We are considering trading in the minivan on a smaller V8 SUV, like the Chevy Tahoe. Does anyone have any input on this? We chatted with another couple at a campground recently, and they said that upgrading to a V8 will make a big difference with towing. Anyone know if this is true? We are planning a cross country trip with summer, which would involve some mountain travel, and I'm worried that the minivan won't be able to handle it....
And with that information, the Mini van has felt underpowered ('dragging')
I would expect that a new Explorer Sport with the substantial increase in power and torque will provide a much more relaxed tow.
Claycomo is in Missouri, not Kansas. Kansas City is in Missouri, however there is a small community in Kansas that has the same name. Claycomo is a small community in the northeast side of Kansas City, Missouri.
Thanks for the correction, I was still waking up when I posted the story. I meant to say Kansas City, even though the plant is in claycomo, it's referred to by nearly everyone as the Kansas City plant.
The City of Kansas City... Seems rather redundant doesn't it?
We have a small trailer - an amerilite 16bh. It's light and has a low hitch weight. We just bought the trailer less than a year ago and don't plan to buy a new one anytime soon. We also have a small boat and could possibly see buying a new boat in the foreseeable future, but it would weight less than 4000 pounds. So we're not hauling heavy loads.... I basically want something that will do well towing the camper long distances. I have not been happy towing with the minivan, even though it is rated to tow the camper and then some.....
Thanks for the info guys!
What about the mini van's towing performance have you not been happy with? Reserve power?
I just traded my 3 yr old ram in. I got 4000 less than I paid new.
This is insanity to me. I would never pay 4 k less than it would cost me to buy brand new with a full warranty.
This reminds me of when my mother was vehicle shopping, I found a used Ford Escape at carmax with a no haggle price of ~250 dollars more than a brand new Escape at the Ford dealer down the street.
If not for the lugnuts, I would have guessed it was one of the prototype or mockup of the 2015 F-150's, the photo makes it look smaller/more trim than the current SD.
I prefer manuals in sports cars. As long as there is a manual transmission vehicle on the market, it's where my $$ will go.
Please post the payload capacity from the drivers door jamb sticker to get a definitive answer
The Tire and Loading sticker didn't become required by law until 2004 ish?, so it's a possibility neither the GM nor the Ford will have this sticker.
*Edit, just looked it up, rule was changed in 2002, but my late build 2002 doesn't have it, so must have started in 2003.
To OP, because of RV's heavy hitch weight, many tow vehicles tend to run out of available payload before exceeding max tow rating. This is because a 7000 lb. boat trailer might have <10% tongue weight, where an RV could have 12-15% tongue weight. Might not seem like much difference, but it can add up.
I prefer to use the BatteryMINDer to any other chargers I've found on the market. Battery MINDer is the only one I've found that desulfates the battery as it charges. It has even brought marginal batteries back to life for me. You can also check out the reviews on Amazon, and see why it gets 4.8 out of 5 stars.