We have had McKesh Mirrors for over 10 years and have not experienced the problems you are encountering. I would suggest you contact McKesh for the specific parts you need.
I've done just that. My 2nd and 3rd replacement mirror head are on their way from McKesh. However I'm slightly annoyed they haven't held up better. Perhaps moisture infiltrates the ball socket and makes it stiff? Perhaps we got a pair of mirrors from a bad MFG. run? Who knows.
I loosen the 3 screws on the ball mount enough that I can adjust the mirror with slight resistance. Once the mirror is where I want it I tighten the screws again. No further adjustment should be necessary.
Thank you for the suggestion, I'll give this a try.
So I've had a set of McKesh towing mirrors for about 7 years now, and I've just broken the second mirror head mount. The metal on the actual mirror head seems to be made from super cheap pot metal, and just doesn't hold up in my experience.
The trouble started about 2 years ago when I was trying to adjust the mirror, the ball socket in the bottom of the mirror had become so stiff that the metal just broke. When I bought a new mirror and installed it, I tried to prevent this from happening by oiling the new one. But now the wind blows it out of adjustment.
Then on my trip last week, the driver side mirror broke while attempting to adjust it. I guess I'm wondering if anyone else has ever had this pleasure, or if it's just me.
I guess I'm a bit surprised that mirrors could be considered a wear item, and it looks like I'll have to replace them every 2 years. At least the rest of the McKesh mirror parts have held up very well over these same 7 years.
Mostly Fords, a couple mercury's, and there was a Datsun as well. The only time we had to walk was When the clutch went out on that 1978 Datsun Station wagon.
I guess looking back my family has had a history of very reliable vehicles.
One more question - anyone know how many miles I can expect to get out of that twin turbo engine? My husband really wants the F-150.... not sure if it will work because of the seating issue, but I found one for sale for a good price, but it has 39,000 miles..... not sure how long that engine will hold out....
200K miles seems like a reasonable target. Most modern gasoline engines seem to be able to make it to 200K reliably, except for subaru for some reason....
If I had 3.55 gears, I would not spend 1,000 dollars to swap for 3.73 gears. I wouldn't pay 500 either. I would pay 500 bucks to go from 3.31 to 4.10 however. The reality is you need to make that kind of jump in gear ratios to make a noticeable difference.
I don't believe the 3.73 gears are available in the 2015's, unless you get the heavy duty payload package (typically available as order only). The V8 will come with 3.31 or 3.55 gears if you opt for the FX4 Off road package.
With the 6 speed transmissions, the significance of rear end gear ratios has been marginalized. With the 2015's I'd grab 3.55's and with a 2014 I'd grab a 3.73 or 3.55 and not give it another moments thought.
Oh, and sorry your Ram has been giving you so many troubles. Best of luck with whatever you decide.
When camped, I attach the hitch to the coupler and padlock it. That way both the trailer and the hitch is secured with a hardened padlock. Yes, it is still only a padlock, but better than nothing.
Couldn't a thief pull up, slide the hitch into his hitch receiver, and done?
I've never tried it, but someone who did said it wasn't as easy as he thought. You have to be perfectly lined up for the hitch to slid into the receiver, then be able to install the pin once the holes are lined up. I believe he ended up giving up and doing it the ol fashioned way.
Finally, a competition where the Ram fanboys won't complain about the unfair advantage their truck had with the 3.92 gears as opposed to the 3.55 gears in the F-150.
Love that the driver can't help but smile in the ecoboost about half way thru the run, while in the ecodiesel he seems... well... a bit bored. 11 seconds is pretty pedestrian, wonder if it would improve any at sea level vs. a mile high?
Thanks for the input. It sounds like most of you have the ecoboost in the F-150. Do you think it would be different in the explorer or the flex? The engine appears to be the same - 3.5L V6 ecoboost. Would it be any different in the different vehicles? I would really prefer to have a 3rd row of seating which is why I keep looking at the flex or explorer....
Yes, I will do a search through the posts too :)
The Flex requires AWD to get the Ecoboost.
The engine is in fact different between the F-150 and all other vehicles the ecoboost is put into. The F-150 version has several modifications to help it deal with the higher expected duty cycle in the F-150. All that being said, if the trailer you want to pull is all within the ratings of the Flex, I expect you will enjoy the towing experience.
Just keep in mind, the Flex has a tow rating of 4500 properly equipped, and the F-150 has a tow rating of 12,000 properly equipped. That is not accidental.
It comes down to if you want a truck built out of high strength rolled steel or aluminum.
What is built out of high strength rolled steel? Hulls of Submarines.
What is built out of aluminum? Beer cans.
:B :B :B :B
With respect you might want to be careful what you believe from commercials. I've seen that GM Commercial and laughed.
"Rolled" steel comes in two basic types HRS and CRS Hot Rolled and Cold rolled. The kind your car uses is generally CRS. It is the cheapest, weakest and most easily worked A36 CRS.
Submarines Hulls are made of a variety of steels depending on whether it's the inner pressure hull Usually titanium or other high strength steel or the outer hull (NON Pressure.)
All steel is initially "Rolled" into either sheets or plates at the mill. (differing thickness) Often times those plates are "Rolled again to form shapes.
Aluminum is, on a WEIGHT basis, STRONGER than Steel. Think for a minute about the wing spars of the 747. Not only do they hold up the aircraft and its load and fuel, they flex continually and have worked for many many years with NO problems. (there goes the beer can analogy)
I am afraid that you have been taken in by a knowingly misleading marketing campaign designed to play upon the fact that most American Truck buyers dont know A36 CRS from toilet paper.
The maximum takeoff weight of a 747 freighter is 875,000 lbs. Class 8 truck bodies and many other vehicles are made of Aluminum...It is plenty strong enough for a Pick up truck.
T&P prefers his trucks made out of spaghettio cans rather than beer cans. :W
I"m kinda liking the continuing story in new posts, without having to go thru all the prior days goings on that I've already read about... But, that's just me..
Anyway, I got $2,000 trade in for a 97 F150 that had over 255,000 miles on it. Plus, Ford chipped in another $1500 "trade in" allowance. :)
I felt it was a good deal.. The 97 was still running strong and actually had new tires on it, but I still let it go for the 13 F150..
I ended up $10k under sticker for a left over 13 in Jan 2014.
The place I went to has that "no dicker sticker" going on, and they pretty much deliver on that.
Good luck! I hate car sales too!
Im with you, after a while I get tired of clicking thru 16 pages to get the updates.
As for the trade in truck, I'd think any truck that looks pretty decent, runs well would be worth 2K ish, but if it's beat to hell and back, and everything is broken or needing serious attention, I wouldn't offer more than scrap value, which should be around 600-900 bucks. Hard to know which OP's truck fell under without more info and a pic.
I totaled my 1997 Ranger so now I'm in the hunt for a replacement grocery-getter beater.
While looking at a 2007 Mazda B3000 I came across a loaded 2003 Tribute ES. Nice little SUV. I know this is an RV forum so I'll make the connection by saying it is capable of towing a whopping 2000lbs and may be a suitable toad.
Can anybody tell me the good, bad or ugly on a 2003 Mazda Tribute before I drop $4K on it? I have read reviews. I gather they are prone to alternator failures and have had their share of safety recalls in the past.
Is it a toad candidate? My Ranger, with the manual 5 speed was and I have dreams of someday owning an A.
Thanks for your input.
My grandmother has a 2003 Escape XLT 4x4 V6 that has been perfectly reliable. Works great for her in northern colorado winters as well.
That is awesome. My first truck was the exact same truck, except 1991 so it had the 3.0 V6 and a 5 speed manual, and it was the color of your replacement hood. That truck cemented my appreciation for Ford vehicles, and I learned a lot about vehicles tinkering on it with my father (it had >150K miles when we purchased it).
As someone else said, what she learns thru this project will pay dividends in time. Glad to see there are still parents out there not afraid to teach their kids to get a lil dirty. No doubt a proud papa!
Thanks for sharing!
Anyone know why only on the half ton and not on the bigger trucks, like
the +8.5K GVWR's ? Because most MPG mandated goals are for vehicles
below that GVWR...because they are considered 'cars'...not 'trucks'
That's because back when the Govt. set the 8,500 GVWR threshold, people didn't buy 10,000 GVWR trucks as fashion statements. Hell, people didn't buy 1/2 tons as fashion statements either. Needless to say, times have changed, now Hummers and 3500's are commonplace in the valet parking.
I'm skeptical of new things. Engineers and marketing experts sometimes make mistakes. I suppose the Ford 6.0 diesel being such a problem makes me this way. It chased me away from Ford trucks when I required diesel power. It's obvious that by taking weight off you can go with smaller engines. The CAFE and EPA regulations require the automotive industry to make drastic design changes in their line.
Aluminum makes this possible. However I overheard a conversation yesterday that makes me wonder about this latest gamble by Ford. A guy was telling his friend that the present CEO of Ford is a previous CEO from ALCOA Aluminum and this accounts for the push to aluminum. Also I heard in the conversation about all the expense and proceedures that reputable body shops must go through to be endorsed by insurance companies. Has anyone purchased insurance yet on these new trucks?? Some of the guys I talk to are already looking at the 2014 models so they can get the "last of the good ones."
When these trucks have been around about 5 years and have a track record that I can verify then and only then will I laydown the cash.
Close, but no cigar. The previous CEO of Ford (Alan Mulally) was the previous CEO of Boeing, which used a bunch of aluminum to make their products, airplanes.
Neither Mulally nor Mark Fields has ever been closely aligned with Alcoa. Not that it would matter if either had been. Whomever you overheard was was wrong.
I have bought many vehicles through the years and I have never ever payed for fuel and advertising. There are better deals.
I disagree. But you may never have paid for a line item on an invoice called fuel/advertising.
I've finally ordered my new truck!!.. It's an F350 Diesel 6 3/4' bed, SRW, snow plot prep, big cab.
The specs fro the truck are in no small part due toy the input from you good people on this forum
This is an overkill for my current trailer. However I got the F350 because it's possible that we could get a 5th wheel toy hauler at some point.
For now my trailer is a 27' from the tip of the tong to the back of the bumper
I don't know what the tong weight is fully loaded because I've never put it on a scales.
However the brochure says this:
Axle Weight (lbs) 4,350
Hitch Weight (lbs) 550
Dry Weight (lbs) 4,900
Cargo Capacity (lbs) 2,650
So I guess the max GVWR is 4900+2650= 7550Ib (Is that correct?
Is it possible to approximate the tongue weight fully loaded from this data?
My question is:
When we get the F350 will we still need to use a Weight Distribution hitch?
Or another way of saying it is "What is the max tongue weight the F350 ca comfortably tow"
Currently with out 1500 suburban we use and equalizer WDH hitch and it's served us well. However it is a bit of a pain when doing tight turns and taking the darn thing on and off.
If my new behemoth of a truck can tow this 'easily' without a WDH then obviously my choice is to not use one.
Any advice from you experts?
Another reason is that IF I have to use the WDH then I would have to order another ball and adjustable hitch which are NOT cheap!.. I may still use the suburban to tow back and forth from home to storage so I don't want to have to keep taking it off and refitting and re-adjusting the hitch system between TV's
For what it's worth, when moving my TT around my property, or very short distances around town, I never install the WD bars. But when I'm loading up the family for a trip, I always do.
Darn. You guys put some serious doubts in my mind.
Better to have doubts before writing the check, rather than after.
With that being said, only you know how you are actually going to use the truck/trailer combo, and how you'll tend to load it.
If you don't want to do any homework, then you can go buy a 1 ton truck. But if you check all your #'s, buy an appropriately capable truck, and leave some room for 'worst case scenario' you'll be fine.
Of the list you provided, I'd lean towards the the Max Tow F-150, which likely has ~1700 to 1800 of payload, and is setup to tow. Only problem is you don't know what you're going to be towing, so a potential trailer may or may not be within the ratings of that truck.