That swamp cooler looks pretty neat, run on 12 volt, even from the solar panel! I wonder if it could be fitted in place of the AC on top of the camper, cause mine is almost useless when I need it in very warm wheather since my gene will not keep up. Or may be a small window unit could be available to install in the front pass through camper window.
The point is that the less extra you need to keep the RV comfi tells me on how well the RV is made, like insulation, air comming in from the slide, roof and wall isulation, air around the tanks, many or not too many windows, ect..
There is certainly different combination of RV set up that makes a difference. I was lookin to buy a Tiffin Allegro 32BA Diesel 2007, the slide pulls out with the storage area. I wonder if this set up is more prone to have air all around the storage area and makes it cooler in cold temps. I am also looking at a La Palma, but it is a 36 foot, kind of long to keep warm I would think but this one has dual pane windows, heated tanks,
I traveled quite a few times between 40 to 60 temps, but not much in the 95 to 100 degrees. Most of my travel have been like going to Alaska or going west from the north at the end of winter or going south in January february.
It is hard to find the right RV at the right price that will suit your mode of travel. Then maybe one day I will just do less "Motor" and more "Home" type of travel.
"And from what I've learned you dare not use tank heaters if the tanks aren't mostly full or the heater may damage the tanks."
I find this comment interesting becuase I have been wondering about that.
I have been thinking about putting a Tee in a hot water line with a normally off solenoid valve that operates off of 12volts then run the extra line to main tank vent lines. Pushing a mometary on switch would open the valve to let hot water return to the the main tank. If the hot water is not too hot for the main tank it would do a very good job of warming the water compartment. When boondocking it would also help conserve fresh and gray water capacity by reducing the need to run water down the drain waiting for the hot water to get there. If you wanted to automate it you could but a thermostate in water compartment to activate the return valve.
If I did this I would feel more comfortable using electric heat when available.
Sounds like a great idea, let us know if you progress in your plan
Here in the dry desert, I'd be fine with a swamp cooler instead of an A/C. I don't have A/C in my house, just swamp cooling, and the cooler does fine, even in August, which is the more humid 'monsoon' season here.
I always thought, when I had my camper and (very rarely) ran the A/C, that I could easily get away with a swamp cooler instead, which requires much less electricity to run and is lighter and not as tall on top of the roof.
Years ago, campers had small roof mounted swamp coolers, instead of roof A/C. Does anyone still make RV rooftop swamp coolers?
What is a swamp cooler?
What's the exterior temp where you are?
its about 55 but in order to get the ac to cycle on i had to warm up the interior of the tc
Try again when it's 95 degrees out. The higher ambient temp makes starting the compressor more difficult.
OK, now I get it, when it is near 100 degree outside, when I NEED the AC, my onan 2500 propane does not hold up for long, it shuts down after a while. I was reading somwhere that you could use some kind of a regulator to start the AC.
I think it is getting harder to find boonduck spot, this is sad, plublic land are also getting harder to get in, fence everywhere, road closed, I even saw manmade ditches in National Forest and the worst, having to buy an "Adventure pass" to get into California NF, cost around 130$. Town used to have Free overnight parking, most of them now charge you to stay, so I stay...away!
I've been through Phoenix this late summer. Wallmart is sure not the place, I was told by the Wally manager that someone would come and ask/tell me to go. I also asked for one night at Bass Pro shop and they said the parking is not their property. I don't personnaly like Bass Pro shop anyway because they are partner to Greenline Timeshare and I alsmost got hooked by their sell pitch.
I went to Oak Flats, this is a nice place, not very big camping but you could use the grass area, National Forest free camping, 3 to 4 miles from Superior on highway 60, that was the closest I could find, it is about 35 miles from Phoenix 202 outskirt, west of Phoenix. It is part of Tonto National Forest.
Keep on boonducking!
RV is for sure not an investment, but I guess I am just trying to find the "sweet spot" where my money will go the more miles possible. New, used, new but a year or two old with a warranty, hard to figure.
Of course there is allways the "surprise" breakdown, but that is part of owning any vehicle.
We use the roof air when necessary and the hydronic heating when necessary. Basically leave the thermostats set at 72, kick back and enjoy the drive. The temp takes care of itself. The heat is the easiest since no intervention is necessary but with the air I do need to push a button to start the genny.
If you will be driving in cold weather at all a hydronic system just can't be beat.
What is Hydronic system? How does it work?
Thanks, I do most of my own repair or maintenance, except muffler, alignement and big job that requires big tools. From what I read, I would buy used and make sure everything is in top shape, especially good tires since this seems to be the big hit in the wallet.
Hi, considering to buy a Class A, GAZ, I have to consider yearly cost of maintenance. This could help deciding on a new rig, an older one with a warranty or a used one that have at least new tires. Then comes the depreciation cost, which should come into play.
I would like to know your yearly cost of maintenance/repair, your average milleage per year and how old is your rig.
Show me your number please.
I am looking at buying a Class A. I was wondering if you have to run the RV roof Air conditionner when driving in warm weather or using the furnace when driving below freezing temp and is it enough to keep the RV comfie?
I guess different brand would make a difference, thermo windows, insulation, lenght, big or small window, ect.
What would be the lowest or highest temp to drive the RV and stay confortable.
I am also looking at a Gulfstream Independence 8295 2006 with the Workhorse, 3 slides with the one sun room slide out with 3 big windows table and chair, 5 windows when open plus 3 sky window. Would it be hard to keep warm on the road near freezing?
I am now leaning more toward an RV with slide, the no slides one was a Real Deal, but there are not many without slides.
I am looking at a DP since it seems to keep it's value, after it gets it's first big drop when it gets out of the dealer lot.
I look for a smaller version, like 32 to 35 foot, but they are rare.
Hi, I would like to know if it is worth to go to Kodiak Island with the Truck Camper for a week or so or if it would be better to just go there and take a tour, stay there a couple of days and come back. Is there much to see, can you see bears without spending a fortune, how long of road is there to travel.
I checked the price to go on Kodiak and it seems to be one way only.It would be around 250 for my rig plus 150 for tow people. I wonder if this price is "return" or only one way.
I never been asked for fuel for the past 40 years crossing the border. When I go to my mother home near the border, I go for fuel across the border in USA and I tell the officer "I am just going to fuel up" and on my way back "Just went for fuel".
ON top you are allowed to bring a fuel can of a few gallons and fill it up.