Yes, you have a bent or overloaded axle. It is also possible that you have worn suspension components causing the problem on that axle.X2X3
Tires on both sides of the same axle wearing excessively on the outter edges is a sign of too much negative camber in the axle. This is most commonly caused by overloading the axle, which takes out the normal upward bow of the axle tube and instead bows it down, which changes the camber angle of the hubs.
Check the trailer for front/rear level when hooked up. Sounds to me like the hitch is too high and rear axle is taking too much load.
Other possibility is too much weight is loaded behind the axles, overloading the rear axle.
I've heard about the T/O ball hitch and the companion hitch, but it's $1000+ in funds I can't justify spending if it turns out this whole "RV delivery thing" turns out to not be my "cup of tea".
I'm sure everyone has seen the constant ads for CWRV Transport here. I looked in to doing RV deliveries with them, but it would require too much time away from my home base, and all the deliveries they do start in the Elkhart/Goshen, IN area.
Me being 1000+ miles away, it's not cost effective to do it with them. I can only do this part time right now, so being 2/3 the way across the US from where the factories haul from just isn't going to work.Perhaps delivering new cars to the dealerships would be a better way to do commercial towing with your truck. Many 'hot shotters' make their living delivering the cars.
You will have to invest in a gooseneck hitch and 3-car gooseneck car hauler trailer. I'm guessing that's about a $15,000 investment. It will keep you much closer to home though.
As others have said, one gallon and one coat is not going to do it right with the Herculiner. I did 2 very thick coats on my utility body. I would do 3 thick coats if I was using it in a truck that hauls a lot of rocks, etc.
Remember, you asked.
Ok, let me get this straight. And take this with the spirit intended...You spent a wheelbarrow full of money on a great truck. And now you want to slap some cheap $44 a gallon liner in the bed thats basically just thick paint in hopes it'll pass for a great looking bed liner???:S Why don't you stick on some fake pointy fender vents too!!!
Please, please...don't do this thing you're considering. Save the cash for a Line-X and do the job right the first time. Spread that junk yourself that you're considering in the bed of that nice truck now and I can promise you that in 3 months you'll realize what a horrendous mistake it was to do so. And now Line-X won't spray over it so you're stuck with a bad bed job... in a gorgeous truck...just to save a lousy $500. Do without something, save the $500, and get a Line-X or Rhino. JMHO.
Happy camping!!! See y'all down the road!!!:)This is really a bunch of completely unfounded B.S. from someone who has never used the Herculiner product himself and has no true first hand experience with it. My experience with it is far different than what is described above.
None of my trucks are garage queens, kid taxis, office commuters, or grocery getters (though the Ranger does go to the supermarket sometimes and my kids do ride in my trucks sometimes as well). I have always used my trucks all as real trucks, for working, playing and getting stuff done, not as glorified station wagons, with a bed tacked on the rear.
Yes, I have used the Herculiner product. I put it in the bed of my utility body back in 2007. I also put it on the tailgate of one of my trucks back in maybe 2004 or so, as well as on the top surface of the rear bumper of the same truck, at the same time as I did the tailgate. I also have Rhino liner in the bed of the same truck.
Considering the above, this is what I have to say about bedliners, Herculiner in particular...
The Herculiner is a good product. It has held up very well in the bed of the utility body and has done ok on the tailgate. I will certainly use it again in the future. I have been planning to paint the top of my truck mounted and jobsite-use tool gang boxes with it for some time now, just haven't got around to it yet. Same with the bed of my Ranger truck. I will put Herculiner in that one too, at some point.
It did not stick well at all on the chrome bumper surface, but I would surmise that likely nothing else would have stuck very well to the chrome either. Typically, painting over chrome is a bad idea and whatever is painted on there, flakes off. This was true of the Herculiner as well.
The Herculiner is a harder surface than the Rhino liner. Rhino has better 'sticktion', whereas Herculiner allows a little better sliding. This can be good or bad, depending on what is being hauled in the bed. A harder surface is better for shoveling dirt/rocks/etc. A more sticky surface is better for hauling boxes of items, etc.
Pallets loaded by forklift do not like to be slide very well on the softer Rhino liner bed surface. I would not put Rhino on my flatbed truck's bed surface, or on my utility trailers (if the floors were steel plate), for that reason. The harder Herculiner and Line-X liners are better products, for that purpose.
I think my truck camper would certainly have slid around a lot more in the bed of the truck, if I'd had Herculiner instead of Rhino. The softer, stickier Rhino helped keep the camper in place, such that I did not need to use a rubber bed mat under the camper, as many do. With Herculiner or Line-X, I would likely have used a rubber bed mat to help keep the camper in place.
The soft Rhino liner is comfy to crawl around in the bed of the truck on my knees. Herculiner is not so comfy. For a camper shell application, where one hase to crawl into the bed to load/unload items, Rhino is the best choice.
So it really depends on how you intend to use it, which liner is best. That said, the Herculiner has proven to be just as durable a product, for me, as the Rhino has. I'm happy with both. Herculiner is certain much less expensive, for those who don't mind putting it on themselves. I don't mind, though it is very messy!
Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings are that. Ratings. Why do the manufacturers place GVWR, GAWR, GCWR tags on their vehicles?We don't find a trucks GCWR stickered any where on the truck nor is it required to be. A simple gear change/or a tranny change/or different engine will change a trucks GCWR.
GVWR and the GAWRs are a fed requirement and are placarded on the drivers side door.
Feds tell us the a trucks GVWR cannot be greater than the sum of the vehicles mfg axle ratings. In the case of the OP 2500 GM with a 4800 FAWR and a 6200 RAWR could have been 11000 lbs GVWR.
GM has certified the GAWRs which are on the placard and is one big reason trucking laws can use the sum of the GAWRs as the trucks GVWR. A RV person using the same truck may use the same numbers if needed however no where does trucking use the truck makers GVWR to determine a truck payload.
IMO there is no grey area other than on a RV website. Just black and white determined by the truck makers and our trucking weight regulations.
The newer gen trucks with their high GVWRs in many cases will over load the trucks RAWR if payloads are figured from GVWR. Especially the gas powered units.On the legality issue, I agree, for the most part. Although, California DMV code does state not to exceed the GVWR of the truck, even if Federal/DOT doesn't say anything about it. Other states are likely similar to California. RV's are not commercial-use vehicles, so most Federal/DOT commercial trucking statutes don't apply to private, non-commercially used RV's.
Most folks forget about the brakes, when we get into these discussions.
Even though it is legal for me to load up to the sum of the F/RGAWR's, and even beyond that, according to my registrations, my trucks likely do not perform up to the braking standards set by the manufacturer, when loaded to the sum of the axle ratings. At least I hope not, for the sake of the standard, because the brakes really suck when loaded that heavy, but they work just fine, and meet the performance standard, when loaded to the GVWR. I definitely feel the difference between the 2 load weight conditions.
If the performance standard is so low that my trucks can meet it when loaded to the sum of the axle ratings, then the standard is lacking and needs to be changed, because braking at that weight is no fun at all.
Purposely purchasing the wrong truck, with the intention of purposely exceeding the GVWR and/or GAWR's, is overall a very poor decision making process and generally not a very smart idea. The idea is even less good, when one considers that the next model up truck, assuming it is right the job, is easily available, usually for only a miniscule difference in purchase cost, when one considers the total amount of money being spent, and is usually sitting on the same lot, often right next to the wrong truck!
Folks just seem to have an unfounded mental block about that 3 instead of 2, or 2 instead of 1, in the first digit place of the model badge on the truck, or they're afraid of those extra 2 tires on the back of the truck....
Thanks for your extended reply, but my post was in reply to upping the axle rating, which on all the new 250,2500,350,3500 is much higher than the rear GAWR, which is just about all cases is set by or fairly close to the tires installed.
ChrisOn late model single rear wheel 3/4 and 1-tons, typically, yes. On duallies, typically, no.
The grey area is the difference between the sum of the axle ratings and the total vehicle rating(GVWR). Using the axle ratings alone, all the builder would have to do is put a heavier rated rear axle under their vehicles to raise their GVWR? I don't think it works that way. Otherwise, they could put a 7,000 pound rear axle under a F-150 and raise the rating to over 10,000 pounds? More goes into the gross vehicle rating than simply axle ratings.The rear tires are what sets the RGAWR. AAM units on the Dodge and GM are rate to over 10K(10800 to 11500 depending on where you look).
That was true even back in 2001 on my Dodge with a Dana 70 axle rated to 8580 pounds, those with Dana 80 have a rating of 10100.
My Rear GAWR is listed at 6084 or two times the standard LT245/75R16E tires rated to 3042 lbs. However the truck came with the factory optional LT265/75R16E rated to 3415 each!
Those with 3042 rated tires can push that limit with a mid size 5th wheel.
Only on RV forums do people get so rapped around the axle on these issues!
ChrisThe weakest link of the whole rear frame/chasiss/suspension/axle/wheel/tire unit is what sets the RGAWR number. The tires are not the weakest link on all trucks. On most 1/2-tons and below, the tires are rated greater than the axle and springs. On most 3/4 and 1-tons, it is the opposite. There are exceptions all over.
If one is going to play hometown engineer and load beyond the manufacturer stated RGAWR, then one must fully educate oneself as to the details of ALL of the parts that make up the rear end of a truck. This includes not only the tires, axle housing and springs, but also the wheels, brakes, hubs, lugs, spring hangers/shackles, shocks, sway bar and even the frame of the vehicle, as well as the cargo bed that is mounted to that frame.
Just because a Dana 80, for example, is rated by Dana as an 11,000 lb axle, does not, in any way, mean that the rear chassis assembly of a pickup using the Dana 80 axle, is also rated to 11,000 lbs, nor does it even mean that the whole axle assembly, as equipped by the vehicle manufacturer (which includes brakes, hubs, bearings and lugs), is rated to 11,000 lbs either.
Each vehicle manufacturer that uses that Dana 80 axle bare housing, specs their own brakes/hubs, calipers/wheel cylinders, pads/shoes, bearings, lugs, differential, axle shafts, etc, that are used to make up the completed axle assembly. These parts can be, and often are, rated less than the Dana bare housing!
This is equally true for other axle manufacturers, such as AAM, that provide axles for different vehicle manufacturers. The same is true for manufacturers such as Ford/Sterling, Nissan, Toyota, etc, that make axles in-house and use similar models in different vehicles, within their own product lines, or cross-sell to other manufacturers, that base their vehicles on common chassis (such as Ford and Mazda).
Even Dana's 11,000 lb rating for the housing, is nominal. A longer axle with the same housing tube diameter and thickness, will have lower carrying capacity than a shorter one, all other things being equal. Hub and bearing design and position of the load center over the spindle section of the housing, as well as the position of the springs along the housing tube, also create different stresses on the housing, and thus different max load capacities for different specific applications of the axle model.
The manufacturer takes into account the capacity of the springs and spring buckets (for coil springs) or hangers/shackles (for leaf springs), shocks and shock brackets, sway bar and brackets, and other suspension members (trailing arms, panhard arm, etc), if equipped, as well as the the frame of the vehicle that the axle is attached to.
Tires have to ride on wheels. Wheels have weight and pressure ratings, just as tires do. Many folks forget this and only consider the tires and just ASSUME the wheels are up to the ratings of bigger/stronger tires than the truck was equipped with by the manufacturer. Not so. One must investigate the actual ratings of the wheels.
ALL of these things make up the rear chassis/suspension system of a truck and ALL are considered in the manufacturer's GAWR number.
Can we change and upgrade weak links and make a stronger system? Sure we can :). BUT, we must do so in an educated fashion, not just assuming everything else is good to go, when in fact it may not be, if we expect to be sucessful for the long term.
Be wise, my friends, be wise, and educated.
My 2003 F250 SD has a slide in camper certification of only 750 lbs but my 1994 Chevy 1500 with P metric tires has a 1550 lb certification. Go figure....For some unkown reason, the camper certification weight is usually significantly less than actual payload capacity of the truck. It makes very little sense, but it is very common and has been for years.
Possibly they're accounting for the higher vertical center of gravity, and increased frontal area (height and width) of a truck camper load, versus a load of rocks, etc, of the same weight....
Why they make 3/4 ton diesels is hard to understand. They should label the SRW 1ton as a 2500 and when you go to a 3500 series you automatically get duals.While I agree, it's a marketing thing and as crazy as it may sound to the informed, they'd probably lose a few sales if they did away with 3/4ton diesels.
As silly as it is, some have a stigma about "one tons" while not having that same stigma about 250/2500 series trucks. Look no further than many insurance providers!
I think it's somewhat in the nature of the consumer to want options, so they give us the option of a diesel pickup that isn't a clearance-light-sporting one ton that conjures images of hauling backhoes on flatbed trailers.I agree. Very well said, by both of you!
My personal feeling, and I've been saying it for years, is that the manufacturers should just get rid of the whole 15/25/35/45/55/65/75 model series naming game and simply rate the trucks by their GVWR's!
Buy however much truck you need, to haul whatever it is you're intending to haul, going by the GVWR and unloaded scale weight numbers (actual payload capacity). It's really pretty simple! This is how true commercial trucks are purchased.
Typical of most dually pickups with factory stock or factory optional wheels, all years, all brands...
If your rims are painted steel, all 7 are the same.
If your rims are chromed steel, the fronts and outter rears are the same, while the inner rears and the spare are likely painted steel.
If your rims are aluminum, the fronts and outter rears are the same, but are likely only polished on one side. The inner rears and spare are likely painted steel.
Put an eyeball on them and check it out.
I know that all companies say you will eventually need a 5th wheel hitch, but the way I use my truck for my personal RV, I can't install a 5th wheel hitch, nor do I want one. (I haul a truck camper).
Has anyone come across a situation where a transport company will allow a driver to tow only bumper pull style trailers? (and waive the requirement of getting a 5th wheel hitch)
I'd prefer not to deal with a 5th wheel hitch right now (or ever) because what's the point of shelling out the money if after 6 months I decide this gig isn't my thing.You can install the B&W Turnoverball gooseneck hitch, which is all below the bed floor. Their Companion fifth wheel hitch unit installs into the gooseneck ball socket. The Companion hitch installs/removes easily, for use with the truck camper.
Good posts! I want to get rid of my slop. When snugging my WDH torsion bars, the top of my drawbar kisses my spare tire. I, too, have a bit too much slop.Slop, snuggling, kissing.... someone's having way too much fun with their hitch!
I had never considered the Nissan NV 3500 until now. A quick search in my area has about 20 available...May have to go luck just because I can.I hope you get to look at one and let us know what you think. I have yet to see one. They're off the lot faster than me in one of their 370z's :)
I do wish Nissan would publish all the detail chassis data so we could find out just what the weak points are... i.e. is the RAWR tire limited? Or are they using something smaller than a D60? And what's included in the "tow package" besides the receiver, since there's a big change in numbers w/out the package, and I suspect most dealers aren't stocking wagons with the tow package (just like the other 3 vans).Ditto. I'd like to know more about what's underneath. But from all the NV3500 vans in SL trim I've seen, they all have the tow package too. I guess since it's the "loaded" trim, they add the tow as well.
You obviously did not read the OP's post. Twice he mentioned that he was surprised that the Titan had a lower axle rating than the NV. My apologies. I did see that a few pages in. I don't know why anyone would be surprised at the Titan having a lower rating than the NV3500, the F150 has a lower rating than an E350.I should have clarified my "surprise" ... I was just expecting a badge game - not exactly taking a Titan and putting a van body on it, but something like that. It was nice to see a "real" axle rating but like others have said it would be best to know what axle really is under there. I hope someone can get a look at one in person and find out. I can't even get to that step, they keep selling before I get to the lot! :)Most likely a Nissan made axle and not likely to be recognized as something we know the ratings for.