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 > Your search for posts made by 'YC 1' found 305 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: New owner electrical problem/question

hwh hot water heater Yes your battery charger could be enough to trip a small breaker. You did not mentions the size of the breaker. Your panel may allow you to set the charging level from 10% to 100% for example. At 100% it could easily overload a normal outlet if the batteries are being charged from a low state. Or if the breaker is a gfci it may not like the setup as well.
YC 1 07/31/14 10:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wifi antenna ideas

scroll to #40 for setup procedure for the Nano.
YC 1 07/31/14 11:45am Technology Corner
RE: Wifi antenna ideas

Check this out Before you buy a DDWRT device give this a look. I just bought two of these. One to install at the RV park that had an old G model that was about useless and one for the RV that has a DDWRT repeater unit,. This router is also a repeater and is the easiest thing I have ever found to set up. It has removable antennas so connecting an outside antenna is easy,. Just buy a pre-made cable and nice Omni gain outside antenna. Setup takes less than ten minutes. You can even get it in a dual band model to make it more versatile. Amazingly inexpensive. As a techno geek I was stunned at how well it works for the price. If you order a coax and antenna be sure your connectors are compatible. Those sma connectors on the router can surprise you.
YC 1 07/28/14 07:49pm Technology Corner
RE: Good Cell Phone external Antennas????

"My question is has any one used a window mount antenna with an amplifier successfully?" Those amplifiers are very susceptible to rf feedback. Much like a podium microphone with howling speakers. The issue is transmit energy getting back into the receiver and often shutting them down. Using a glass mount antenna may be asking for problems. Even though you spent a lot of money these things can be more problems than they are worth for the average Rvers tech level,. A roof mount antenna is far preferred with a decent ground plane which helps tremendously. The fiberglass/wood roofs do not provide good isolation. I have used metal duct tape on the outside of the roof and mounted the antenna through that with good success. In a car using the magnetic outside antenna on the roof (without a sun roof) can provide excellent service. For the average weekender and as a telecommunications tech that owns a company that specializes in vehicle installations I can personally recommend the Wilson setup. Use a blue tooth to have hands free and you don’t need to remove the phone. Heck, even my aftermarket dash radio has blue tooth and it works well muting the radio and switching the audio to the speakers. The gain specs for the Wilson are a bit lower but from first hand experience and using some very expensive test equipment it really has the best bang for the buck. If you want to get fancy you can run directional antennas mounted to your crank up antenna mast. I have several amps you are using and they have all been retired. The Wilson is also useful to grab and put in your car if traveling about in poor coverage areas. Back to the window antenna. It will be a******shoot and may work fine, however if I had a customer asking me about it there would be as pays your money and takes your chance lecture. Most heed my advice since I have been doing this for 40 years.
YC 1 07/27/14 10:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Any downside to a domestic fridge in a Class A?

Our stainless side by side with water in the door has worked extremely well since 2008. The fires referred to are another mfgr product. Set the switch for automatic and it goes to propane when shoreline or generator is off. Twelve volt would be a bit costly and really not necessary. The ice makers can be a bit finiky but still worth the occasional hassle. The residential refers have more room inside so when ours dies it will be replaced by one. Full timing can cause the door to be opened a lot and these do not cool quickly. For major drink supplies we have a Dometic 12/110 volt ice chest in the storage compartment on a slide out. It is extremely efficient and fast. It can be used as a freezer as well.
YC 1 07/27/14 10:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How's your A/C working?

Someone just asked me about my AC modifications. Here is my response that may inspire someone to invent a better mouse trap. Yes, I am a bit of an inventor. You too have discovered that the major noise is the intake. The wife just gritted her teeth while I tinkered for several weeks building an intake muffler just as you describe it. Experimenting with having the intake towards the driver on the forward AC for example really reduced the noise in the living area. Cutting up some foam sheets from Home Depot and using some thin metal duct tape many variations were developed. Since we had just become full timers with no access to my old shop and tools it was a crude affair but quite effective. As a compromise to the looks and sound I bought a square AC register that holds a 12x12 paper filter. It looks good and does reduce the noise a bit and the filters are easy to change versus the simple plastic foam pad that was inside. The air flow from the registers was very low compared to sliding the louver open on the AC cover. With that open there is a hurricane of air. Finding the round registers stuck up inside the long ducts it seems they were blocking the flow. Trimming their length that was inside helped a bit but nothing compared to the open AC output register. The current setup for the AC output is a plastic air deflector that has an adjustable width and a strong magnet on each side. Removing the AC output register and trimming it a bit larger allows the deflector to attach to the metal that was behind the plastic. It now blows that hurricane into the room at a remarkable level. Using a simple 12 volt van near the kitchen really mixes it well. The AC fan can be set on low versus the auto or high mode and the noise is much lower overall. The plastic register does allow a bit more noise versus the ducts but they just cannot keep up with 105 degree temps. A variation of the output duct in the bedroom is using a 3 inch pvc pipe that was inserted close to the fan inside the AC and then surrounded with metal tape to hold in place and then insulation foam was filled in. Using an elbow on the end of the pvc without gluing it allows me to direct it. The plastic deflector worked to cool things well but the thermostat for that bedroom would cool to quickly and cycle the AC of and on too much. When you take the AC covers down for the first time you may see wires dangling in the air path as well as many things for the air to run into. The metal tape or duct tape can be used to hold wires out of the way and to actually cover the ducts that are so inefficient. I covered the ones in the bedroom but left the ones in the living area alone. With a simple pop in plastic cover the AC plastic deflector can be replaced and reactivates the old registers which is useful while driving to distribute air to that compartment. Before the modifications it was impossible to get this 40 footer with dark paint down to a very comfortable level when parked in the hot sun. When things are really cooking, putting the fans on high versus automatic helps a bit. Even if the compressors shut off the remaining cool left in the condensers are not wasted.
YC 1 07/27/14 10:13am General RVing Issues
RE: Blown Engine, 8.1l

Sorry for you troubles. Another vote for a crate engine. I have replaced several this way in service vans. Around 6K here in Kalifornia. Probably less in other states. Never had any issues with one. I would have the radiator rebuilt at the same time since it will be out.
YC 1 07/26/14 10:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Heater inop when on battery

After reading the original post again something is a bit fuzzy. Are you referring to a solenoid that controls all of the propane? If that is the case the stove would not fire off either. IF, you mean the heater fan is running and the gas does not ignite then then that is basically the same issue except the fan is not spinning fast enough to pull the sail switch in. This is a safety device. The same troubleshooting applies. Start the heater and let the fan run. The motor is a rather large load which will help chase the thing down. Use an extension cord plugged into one of the outlets. UNPLUG the RV from shoreline. Use the ground lug on the extension cord for your voltmeter while you begin measuring voltage at the battery. Then to the converter/fuse panel, and on to the heater. Somewhere along the line there is likely a poor connection causing a voltage drop.
YC 1 07/24/14 01:46pm Travel Trailers
RE: Heater inop when on battery

Take a meter reading on the ground side of the solenoid as well. If you see any voltage there you have a ground problem. When using generator power the battery charger is engaged and supplies more voltage at the batteries so overcomes the loss in the line. You could have a sticky solenoid because it seems that voltage would most likely engage it. A bad crimp in a splice can cause low voltage as well. Give the solenoid a light tap from the handle of a screwdriver to see if it engages. I would follow every inch of the control wire. Have found splices in the dumbest places.
YC 1 07/24/14 07:47am Travel Trailers
RE: Winegard Antenna Booster

What is broken on the part? Very simple device. You may be able to scavage parts from a new one if there is an actual broken item. Have you used a voltmeter to check it?
YC 1 07/22/14 08:09am Tech Issues
RE: Setup/Takedown Checklist

Sat Dish and Antenna down Bird Disabled Bunjie TV Bunjie Couch Ice maker Disable Roll Rug Inverter On Wash windows Lock Cabinets Shoreline Disconnect Water Disconnect Sewer Disconnect Tire Pressure Tighten Awnings Pots and Pans secure Refer stored Jacks Up Pads Stored Seats clear of slides Slides in Fuel Propane Water Closet Rods Vents closed Dump dog dish Walk dog safety chains lights Neutral Brake off and pumped
YC 1 07/21/14 10:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electrical Switches

If it is the inch wide by about 1.5 inch switch get a flashlight and magnifying glass to get the part number off the side. In a pinch you may be able to swap it with one of the others on the panel.
YC 1 07/20/14 08:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Possible Over Heating Allison Tranny (UPDATE)

Normal. If you are stuck idling due to a serious jam just shift into neutral and the temps will come down.
YC 1 07/20/14 08:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electrical Switches

Probably a carling switch and available at a local rv store. IF the outside part you push on is not physically broken it can be snapped off and installed on a new switch. Are you positive it is broken? The switch controls a relay in the front run bay which is the large control panel below the driver in the outside compartment. The relay is a common failure component. It can be bypassed easily to get you going.
YC 1 07/20/14 08:05am Tech Issues
RE: deeded rv property

IF, you buy a piece of property with the idea of living in your rv on I,t even though it may be out in the sticks be sure to check codes first. Some places do not allow you to live in an RV. Not fun finding out after you have bought the land.
YC 1 07/16/14 11:42am Full-time RVing
RE: Diesel Pusher with Bunks?

OK, here is you "other suggestion". If the kids are in their teens they may travel less often with you now. An rv can be a long term purchase so think to the future use a bit. If the kids are big enough to make their own beds then set some rules for them. They make it down and when you get up they do too. Our grandson lives with us full timers and he gets the bed made often before I am up. The precious space bunks would take up is better used for our purposes.
YC 1 07/16/14 11:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: battery question

Since you have it solved maybe this analysis will help you wrap your head around the issue. A water hose is connected to a faucet that has 50 lbs of pressure. On the end of the long hose is your sprinkler working just fine until someone steps on the hose and the water spray diminishes. The resistance causes the pressure (voltage), to be much lower at the sprinkler. The pressure at the faucet (battery), has not changed. That switch probably will come apart and can be cleaned and lubed.
YC 1 07/16/14 11:28am Tech Issues
RE: Ceiling AC -- any mods to direct the cold air?

Go to Lowes or Home Depot, and go to the area that stocks ac registers, the grills that fit into the floor for the ducts. Look for an item called a "diverter". These go over the register and devert's the air flow. Ususlly held on by magnets, but you can probably modify one to attach to the ac unit. Their usually made of clear plastic, and are adjustable. Use some velcro on the deverter and the ac unit to attach it so it's removable during the day. Grumpy I did this to both of our AC's and it works great. Removing the front AC cover I actually cut an area out that allows one of the plastic arched diverters to hit the metal frame and is held in place with the magnets and a small strip of clear duct tape on the rear which makes a hinge so I can actually pull it gently till the magnets let loose and the register then directs air a bit lower. The rear AC register was changed even more dramatically when the register just did not work as well because it blows air on the temp sensor and would not run long before cycling off. We live in our rv so comfort is important. Using duct tape, expanding foam, and the largest pvc pipe that would fit inside the register hole that had been previously removed for the plastic thing to fit in, I inserted the pipe and held it in place with tape. Then filled the hole with expanding foam. Once dry a simple elbow piece you can get in various angles is simply pressed on the end. You can redirect the air in any direction now.
YC 1 07/16/14 11:21am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: temp patch on a cracked gray water pipe ??

Goop Every rver should have a tube of this stuff. It comes in lots of verities such as marine, plumbers, shoe goop, etc. It will stick to just about anything. I think this is how they get Teflon to stick to the pans. :B Use a stick to spread it. It dries in a few hours. It is NOT silicon like so will stick to just about anything it touches. Guaranteed to stick to pvc. It is available at most hardware stores or automotive stores. Don't worry about not finding "plumbers" goop. I think it all comes out of the same batch and they just label them differently.
YC 1 07/16/14 11:09am Tech Issues
RE: How to replace an awning strap for a Carefree awning.

Outstanding idea using a ratchet strap, except I stole the strap from my ratchet strap to use as the pull strap. Perfect width and was easily hand sewn.
YC 1 07/15/14 05:03am Class A Motorhomes
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