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 > Your search for posts made by 'crasster' found 278 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Gen oil filter

I just go with a Wix filter and a synthetic oil. It's been good thus far.
crasster 07/29/14 03:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Locked Up

Tell you what, I think you had a siezed engine. This is not a great fix, but may get you by for some time... I can't guarantee it. Put heavy Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas (the highest suggested amount). Change the genny oil, and put at least a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the genny oil (in exchange for a quart of regular oil). This stuff is super oil. If it continues to do the sounds, work your way the opposite. Drain the oil out completely. Use Non-Detergent 30 weight oil in the engine. The idea here is to get micro carbons filling in any possible scratched surfaces between the piston rings and cylinder wall. It's basically a "rig" to get more hours out of an engine. It actually can last a long time. IT's not a fix, but it works.
crasster 07/29/14 03:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Whats the best car to tow ??

My opinion is the Toyota Yaris standard shift. Extremely reliable car. Great gas mileage. Super easy to tow & light. You won't really know it is back there. It is a peppy car. Very fun to drive in the mountains. Simple to drive, easy to park. Simple when you go downtown somewhere to drive and find a parking place. I suggest the hatchback, as if you aquire some loot on your ventures out, you'll have plenty of room with the fold down seat. It tows 4 down, or super simply with a dolly.
crasster 07/28/14 10:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: ventless vs vented washer/dryer

Would you rather fresh "dry" air from your coach or outdoors being blown through your clothes or much of the same damp air blowing through them. Vented dries way quicker. Also look up spin dryers. They are really neat.
crasster 07/28/14 10:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow Dolly

http://t.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-accessories/heavy-duty-trailer-dolly-69898.html Also in their stores. Is that really a good option though? Since a dolly when lifted by the handle is on one set of tires, this device would add another set of tires and increase your rolling resistance as well as throw off the fulcrum point. You would either need a friend, or a motorized version of one of these. Not a cheap option on the latter. On level ground once you get a dolly rolling it's not too bad. I move mine around with my tractor, but if I am in hurry I just grunt it out by the handle. I have one of these. It takes away the lift, not the pull. Let me give an example. (we have 3 rv's a class c, class a, and a KZ 16ft travel trailer). The KZ weighs about 300-350 tongue weight. As manly as I'd love to be, lifting the tongue makes me feel like I'm going to blow a sprocket.... somewhere.... I feel my entire body is fully strained. If I pick it off the ground for 1cm, there is no way I can really pull it. The tow dolly what it does is takes all the tongue weight off the camper. Pulling, while not exactly easy, is way more manageable. I can basically move it around in the driveway pad area. There would be no way I could do this without the dolly. In the case of the OP, if it is the tongue weight that is holding them back from moving the tow dolly, then this would be great. If it is the pull, that's another story. HOWEVER, lifting the tongue AND pulling can sometimes make a person think there is more "pull power needed", than what exists in reality. Once you remove the tongue weight, it is pretty amazing how much you can move on greased axles and tires. I bet this could really help them if they think the tongue is heavy.
crasster 07/28/14 09:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Very Scary Tow Car Breakaway

Sometimes it is SCARY how much there is to "check on" when it comes to RV's. Done this for many years and think I have a "list".... But then my mind goes or I get distracted. It's usually good though to check a solid "once around" and any hitches before advancing to more adventures.
crasster 07/23/14 09:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water leak

How about A/C condensation, could it be leaking and traveling?
crasster 07/23/14 07:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: transmission was leaking but not now?

Play it by ear.... Look & observe. How big is the leak? If it's the occasional drip the seals may get wet again with use and "seal again". Sort of risky. You could always go under it and slightly tighten each bolt and examine further.
crasster 07/23/14 07:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: On-demand water pump?

One of two solutions. Either upgrade your pump for more GPM, or do it the cheap way (like me) and get a water saving shower head. This one is worth EVERY penny. Click Here This uses way less water and makes for a great shower. Keeps more hot water in your tank and/or you can take longer showers. Seriously I think that showerhead tripled how much I like my RV shower. I bought mine when they were $8 years ago. Still have them in both my RV and home. No regrets! :)
crasster 07/23/14 07:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gas tank leak, gas smell

I wonder if you fuel pump/outlet line is loose. Usually it is on a disk like ring that can be tightened. There is also a gasket there that could be bad. Probably any auto shop is capable of dropping a gas tank. Usually it is a couple of metal straps holding it on.
crasster 07/21/14 03:24pm Class A Motorhomes
Best state to register a Class A RV in?

I'd be curious to get some input on state some of you register your RV in (if not your homestead state) and why. I know there are some that have much better taxes, tag fees, etc. We were just hit with a $198 tag fee four our Class A gasser bounder... Not that it is horrible but it just got me curious.
crasster 07/20/14 09:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: inverter question

Almost all electronics work well on modified sine wave inverters. Especially things with adapters. Things such as a/c powered cordless drills, saws, and a/c motors - plus certain types of lights should be on pure sine.
crasster 07/20/14 09:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder with Bunks

YES, we enjoy our bounder w/bunks very much. It's a big relief over the Toyota Class C we also have for in state trips. Lot's of elbow and sleep room.
crasster 07/17/14 10:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash radio died

I have found that Sony radios in autos work very reliably. To each their own though. I would consider replacement if you have to pull it and find issues in the radio (some people fix). I believe that brand has a negative reputation (I can't testify personally).
crasster 07/17/14 09:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Washer drains to black tank

It de-nastifies the black tank (if that is really possible I don't know). But consider you are dumping very soapy water into the tank. You don't have to worry about the "pyramid" under the toilet. On the downside, of course, it could fill the black tank a little bit quicker. HOWEVER, the only way I could see this as a problem is if you were boondocking. But I simply can't imagine doing laundry boondocking (would have to run genny whole time). Otherwise, we usually have hookups. Full timers would most likely always try to be on sewer anyway.
crasster 07/17/14 09:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago Vista 35F

I'm not completely with bumpy but do agree that the roof is extremely important. Often it is due or die for an RV. Consider how many awesome airstream coaches (non fiberglass) still exist today. I saw one the other day from the 1960 that still looked fantastic (buffed out). It GLEAMED in the sun. Longevity is very important to me with an RV. Some people keep a coach a while and "trade up" (quotes emphasized), while others like to have the same coach nearly for the rest of their lives (coach includes travel trailer). Fiberglass roofs indeed are wonderful because somebody can buy one and let it be. Rubber roofs however, will last a good long while but do wear. It is not the only factor on buying a coach though, but the roof is a very important factor. The #1 factor of warning for anybody buying a used coach is "check for leaks". Fiber roofs are insane reliable to prevent this. But it should NOT be the only factor in buying a coach whatsoever. Everybody needs to consider their needs/wants when buying - and their situation. For me personally, since I budget RV a lot and don't have a tremendous bank roll, I go for the longevity. A fiber or solid stainless roof would be more appealing. Winnebago makes a great coach OP. I don't think you can go wrong.
crasster 07/17/14 09:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: CB Radio?

Cobra is a good brand, but remember the FCC regulates CB's to 5 watts maximum output. All of the radios (from $20 off ebay to $250 ones) are regulated at this wattage. Many truckers enhance their radios to be more. The antenna should be simple, and close to a good SWR if the coax is already installed and the antenna length already adjusted. It's the radios where you make the custom mounts and coax lengths that generally get "hairy" with SWR's. While pre-made antennas with coax CAN be adjusted to perfection, they are usually PRETTY close to good. If you are planning on a custom mount, you absolutely want an SWR meter. We have a $20 uniden CB and a $150 Cobra. Non-peaked or modified. They both get the same distance just about.
crasster 07/14/14 10:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roof top AC

You can add a port if you are comfortable using solder and a torch, but I prefer mapp gas and brazing it with a copper rod. Once you have a port, you can get a vacuum tool to create vac pressure in the line and recharge it yourself. (works for autos too).
crasster 07/10/14 09:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator issue - "termo fuse" keeps popping

Hmm, I wonder if the upper vent could be causing this on electric. I take it that the vent is on the roof? May be clooged with bugs/hornets nest, etc. Something is causing that thermo to pop.
crasster 07/07/14 08:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator issue - "termo fuse" keeps popping

Oh yes to add, the fins inside the fridge are not getting cold, didn't expect the fridge to get that cold that quick. :)
crasster 07/06/14 09:37pm Class A Motorhomes
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