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Heated supply water hose leak.
I bought a heated water hose to use when I camp in the winter. I use my travel trailer as much as I can. Anyway my hose is out of warranty 1 year and it is now leaking at the male end that connects to the water inlet of the trailer. I don't think I can install a clamp to stop it as it has the heater cord coming out. It is a Pirate brand and made in china of corse so I really can't send it back. I was thinking maybe I can cut the rubber back & move the heating cord out of the way and put a clamp on it then put cord and reseal with black tape? Anyone done this and did it work? This was kind of expensive a little over $100.00 as it is 50 feet long. The heater part still works good and I would like to keep using but the rv parks don't want leaking hoses. Any help is appreciated.
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gusco01
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12/24/12 02:13pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging golf cart batteries
Thats why I shut off the trailer with the disconnect so all I'm doing is charging the batteries with the portable charger. At the same time the trailer is plugged into the generator so I have 120 volts and 12 volts in the trailer as the converter supplies the 12 volts the refrigerator needs to run. It works for me, Dan
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gusco01
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12/19/12 01:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging golf cart batteries
Thats what I do. The power converter will run all my 12 volt stuff in the trailer and I'm never out of power plus I charge the batteries alone without trying to back feed into the converter with the other charger. The battery disconnect is a great tool plus you won't run the batteries dead with the gas detector running 24-7 in storage. I shut off the batteries it is a great tool. Dan
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gusco01
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12/19/12 10:02am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging golf cart batteries
I charge my golf cart batteries with my disconnect off and use a portable wheeled battery charger set for 50 amps. It usually takes about 4 hours to fully charge my batteries after a full night of using the tv, satalite and the furnace in the winter. Also remember the batteries don't have the same capacity when they are cold as they do at 70 degrees, about 1/2 so I'm very happy with my capacity of the new batteries. I don't have a amp meter on the power converter line so have no idea on the amps going to the batteries thats why I use the portable one when camping off my generator. It will raise the voltage to 15 volts. I haven't had any problems doing so. My last set of batteries lasted 9 years so it didn't hurt the batteries none charging this way. It takes several days to charge with the power converter so I probly do need a better one with a smart charge but it still works for now. I have to make things last, we are in a resession. My business is just getting by, things are tough in my part of the country. I'm lucky to still have a RV. Dan
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gusco01
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12/19/12 08:27am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging golf cart batteries
Hi all, I thought I would get back to you. The furnace has worked great every time after I changed the sail switch. The new golf cart batteries are great. They will last all night in the cold on top of a mountain with 3 inches of snow on the ground when I was out hunting. No more waking up in the morning very cold because the furnace was off. I'm a happy camper now! Thanks Dan
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gusco01
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12/18/12 05:04pm |
Tech Issues
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Duramax Intercooler tube hole
I don't know if any of the members have run into this problem but I will tell you abolut my truck. I have a 2002 GMC 2500HD 4x4 with the duramax diesel. I was changing the power stearing hoses and had to remove the turbo discharge tube going to the intercooler, Hot side, or drivers side. I found a hole rubbed in the aluminum tube from the power stearing return line that is steel. Has any of you had this happen and if so did you put on a after market one or go back with a GM one. I'm having trouble finding a after market one. I did find one for $225. That seems like allot to me but GM wants over $400.00 for the stock one. I was told by the parts guy that most of the duramaxes are wearing through that same tube even on the newer duramaxes. Thats new to me. I have read allot about them but never heard that before. I might get it welded up I will have to see if I can find a shop to repair it. But I don't know how to stop it from happening again? Thanks Dan
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gusco01
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12/17/12 01:48pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Charging golf cart batteries
Well what I found out what the problem was the fan sail switch. I installed a new one. Before I removed I checked with a ohms meter & found when it clicked it should have closed but it did not do it all the time as it was acting when the furnace should have light up. I kept thinking it was the batteries too discharged but it was not. Anyway the furnace works fine now and kept me warm all night on the new batteries. Thanks all for your input. I even learned some things I didn't know about batteries in series. Thanks Dan
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gusco01
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11/13/12 06:40am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging golf cart batteries
I looked up the specs of the batteries I bought. It says they are 208 amp hrs at 20 amps 6 volts, I have two hooked in series making 12 volts so don't I have 416 Amp hours now? I only had 200 amp hour before so it looks like double to me or am I missing something? Also in the upper 20s at night. I know that lowers the capacity of the batteries. I don't know the specs on the original equipment power converter but it is 55 amps I know that for sure. It has a bulk rate for so many hours then a maintenance rate I think that one is 13.2 volts? I know my large battery charger on wheels charges at 15.something volts. It really bubbles the batteries when charging. My old interstate batteries lasted 9 years on my rv using the wheeled charger for the bulk charging so it didn't seem to hurt them any. I did not know the furnace would run down to 10.5 volts thats encouraging. Thanks Dan, Sorry for the mispelling the spell checker doesn't work on the post area for some reason.
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gusco01
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11/08/12 04:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging golf cart batteries
Well I didn't make it all night. I woke up about 1:30 in the morning cold, the furnace had stopped. I tried to restart the furnace and it would run fan for about 1 minute then stop. When the fan was running I tested the battery terminals at my power converter, it was not plugged in the A/C, batteries only it was 12.3 volts with a light load on it. I don't think thats too bad but I could not get the furnace to fire so I plugged in thinking the higher voltage will spin the fan faster & sail switch will work & it will fire up. It did not same as before. Now I think the batteries are doing there job but I have a problem in the furnace. I removed this morning & blew out the dust & checked the sail switch. It did not close completely when I tested now & them even though the fan was in open air and at 13 volts with a jump start powering it. I ordered a new fan sail switch and will install in the morning. I also cleaned the flame sensor & checked both fan cadges and will install a stainless mud dobber screen over both the intake vent & the discharge vents to stop the nests. I had a wire screen over it but was told I needed a larger mesh so it won't make back pressue. I'm also going to check the floor vents in the rv to make sure insulation or something might be plugging the air flow. That also could cause a back pressure and make it hard to set the fan sail switch. Anyway the furnace is a surburban and its 9 years old so it was time to take apart & clean anyway. It wasn't that hard to remove. I figure 1 hour tomorrow morning and I will have it working again and hopefully that will take care of my cold nights. I have a hunting trip to take & I want to get with it and have a warm place to sleep. Thanks ALL I will let you know how it comes out. I'm also going to check the amp hours on the batteries. The furnace says 8 amps on the spec tag so thats not really a big load not 20 amps that some have mentioned and it stops & starts it doesn't run continually. But its probably the largest load. I don't know what the TV and satalite converter together draw when I'm watching the tv ? I did watch for 2 hours before I went to bed. The old batteries were rated 600 cold cranking amps I did not see a amp hour rating like the golf cart batteries use. Its hard to say but they were the smaller 24 series. Anyway this post is long enough for now Thanks Dan
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gusco01
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11/08/12 03:06pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging golf cart batteries
You know my older batteries were starting marine batteries not really deep cycle like the new golf cart batteries and I used to be able to watch the satalite tv for a few hours, run the refrigerator on gas & run the heater as needed. The night temp was about 27 degrees and I only had it set at 65 inside. I did not check the voltage the next morning but did put a 3 to four hour charge with a battery disconnect on off to the trailer so it did not back feed to the power converter with a large car battery charger set on 50 amps. Now it doesn't stay on 50 amps for long as the battery charges the amps goes down. After that time the amps are down to about 18 amps. No idea on battery temperature or even how to compensate for the temperature. I did check the charging voltage its up around 15.5 volts and does bubble allot. 2 hours used to be enough for the 2 12 volt batteries in same service. But these batteries are supposed to have higher capacity so maybe I did not charge long enough? I'm going to sleep in the camper in the driveway tonight to test it. I will take voltage readings in the morning. Maybe that will tell me how low I discharged them ? I never heard that you have to break in a battery? Thats new to me if its true? Thanks Dan
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gusco01
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11/07/12 06:51pm |
Tech Issues
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Charging golf cart batteries
I bought 2 new golf cart batteries and I can't get them to fully charge on my RV power converter. I check with a hydrometer and can get to middle of green but I can't get to top of green. I can't get a entire night of running the heater. I wake up cold in the morning. These batteries have twice the amp hours that I used to have in there. My stock power converter is 55 amps. I even tried to use a large portable car charger set on 50 amps for 2-3 hours and still can't get to full green. I threw away my old hydrometer & bought a new one still no differance . What am I doing wrong, or does it take longer then I have given it to recharge. I have had it on the power converter for 3.5 days now and it still doesn't have it completly in the top of the green. I know my charger has a bulk charge for x amount of hours then switches to a maintenance charge. Please don't tell me that this has been discussed allot in this forum, If thats all the input you can give me then don't even bother as thats no help at all. I'm looking for someone that has solved the problem they had and how they did it. Thanks I hope I wasn't rude. Dan
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gusco01
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11/07/12 03:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic refrigerator cooling coil leaked
Well the cooling unit showed up in good shape. They package it good. I had a friend help me and we installed. It took about 1/2 a day. I did have a problem getting it to work properly on gas but I found the insulation the factory installed had fallen over the coils so I had to remove the refrigerator again and staple the insulation back in place to help with the air flow over the coils in the back. I have been testing now. It now seems to work as well on propane as it does on electric. I really don't see much differance between the dometic coil and the amish one. Same number of coils. I can't tell if the thickness of the tubing is thicker or not, no way to tell, I hope it is. But it is working and still testing it. hopefully I will be able to trust it with expensive food again. Have you looked at the cost of our food these days? Anyway for everyone thats on the road this holiday have a great safe and fun holiday! Thanks Dan
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gusco01
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08/31/12 06:32am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic refrigerator cooling coil leaked
Good news my new cooling unit was shipped and should be here monday I should be able to get installed in time for labor day weekend if it works and or not damaged in the freight. The freight companys tear up allot of my freight, but for now I'm excited to be getting it in time. Thanks All, Dan
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gusco01
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08/24/12 11:13am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic refrigerator cooling coil leaked
I ordered a new one on friday but it says it is backordered. I did talk with David the owner two days before and he said he had in stock. He said he sold out already so now I have to wait. I guess we arn't going anywhere on labor day weekend unless I want to use a ice chest. Thats the way it is when the rv breaks down hurry up and wait. Anyway I'm looking forward to learning a new skill in fixing it myself. I just hope it will last this time as long as I'm going to own it. We will see. I'll let you know how the install goes when it comes in, Dan
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gusco01
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08/19/12 09:03am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic refrigerator cooling coil leaked
I'm thinking of the new one from the RV cooling wearhouse. Its the same price I can buy a new Dometic cooling coil for but is it the same design thats going to break and may burn down my rv? I have read good things about the new amish ones and have not read about any breaking yet. The amish ones are supposed to be twice the thickness in the tubing and more tubing then the Dometic ones which they claim cools better in hot temps. And it carries a 5 year warranty for leaks. The dometic unit only has 1 year warrranty so it seems pretty clear. Its about 1/2 price to change the cooling unit then buy another new refrigerator. I have read about changing them and saw a video I think I can do it. Thanks for all your replys. I will order & let you know how the replacement goes when I'm done. Thanks Dan.
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gusco01
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08/16/12 10:57am |
Tech Issues
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Dometic refrigerator cooling coil leaked
My Dometic RM 2852 refrigerator failed yesterday while on a out of town camping trip. We had to by some dry ice to save our just purchased costco meat to take home after the weekend. That worked OK. Now my refrigerator did have the kit installed for the recall and apparently worked as the frig was on gas when it happened and no fire (Thank God for that). I was not at the trailer when it happened so I could have returned to a burnt out frame when I came back from visiting with my new grandson. Today I called Dometic they said my unit is out of warranty and their is no financial help nor will they sell discounted replacement parts. My RV is 9 years old and one would think it would last longer then that. They cost as much as a large home refrigerator that can last 30 years without burning down your house. Now since I will have to pay for a new cooling unit or a new refrigerqator does anyone know if the replacement new cooling units from Dometic are they any better then what was installed originally? Can it be expected to last longer? They only put a 1 year warranty on the replacement coil, the original had a 3 year warranty. Anyone replaced theirs? Did it fail again or is it a better coil? I'm trying to figure out whats the best repair. Should a rebuilt one be considered or are they to be avoided? Thanks for your answers, Dan
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gusco01
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08/13/12 09:29pm |
Tech Issues
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bf goodrich commercial tires recalled
I was searching for BF Goodrich Commercial 16" tires and I found on the internet that 2 sizes have been recalled due to tire belt seperation. They want all those 2 sizes back to a goodrich dealer & they will replace with new ones free to the owners. Google the goodrich tire recall it came out in july of this year. I know allot of RVers went to this LT tire as a replacement for the ST tires. I will still buy some for my trailer when I get the 16" rims. I think its a great company and the new replacements will probably be even better. Ive read on this forum everyone that uses them on there trailer or 5th wheel have had very good luck with them over a ST tire. So if you have the effected tires get them exchanged and enjoy your rving. Just a heads up. Dan
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gusco01
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08/10/12 09:54am |
Travel Trailers
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