That model, in the current version of the Jayco webpage, has limited outside storage. I liked the floorplan. Notice that with "29" in the Model designation, it's still a 31-ft+ motorhome. I'd estimate limited carrying capacity, weight-wise. That's common in larger Class C's. Beyond that, Melbourne is an upgraded model and has many nice features. One valuable build feature is fiberglass roof. Jayco didn't use them for a long time and recently started. That is a plus.
The Idle Air Compensator (IAC) valve sits on the intake to the throttle body. When it fails it makes a "whoooo" sound but usually not at idle. That would be under the hood, but your fan can carry the sound back.
I'm gathering parts and planning time to rebuild the front end in our E450 soon. What angles did you set the alignment at?
From what I gather 1. Here, 2. Alignment Shop, 3. Major RV Rental Service Manager, the Ford chassis has a lot of front end issues. As few as 20,000 miles and major components can be worn out.
I'd thought, till right now, that I could pad my extension ladder, lean it against the surface, and have somebody stand on the foot of the ladder to keep it from kicking out. Looking right now, that angle is worse than I thought. I need to polish ours. Luckily no window. Think I'll try standing on the radiator support and see how far I can reach.
I won't swear to this, but I think I heard the 3M will break the "bead" of silicone down and allow easy removal, but doesn't get the what I'll call the "poison" it leaves on the cleaned surface.
Would like verification that 3M leaves the surface ready for new sealant.
T'n'G, I looked at the Spirit brochure for 2003 and 29B has 190" WB. The 31T has 220". I really like the 29B layout, but the WB seems a little short.
OP calls the coach "30-ft" so we don't know yet which model it is.
I think if you get one that uses LP Gas with Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) AND an Electric Element, you will have the best compromise in RV water heaters.
Our first RV was delivered with a DSI unit but it failed and had it replaced on short notice with an Attwood "standing pilot" heater and it was a pain. Fortunately the replacement also had an electric element and we were able to use electricity most of the time.
Current RV has a Suburban DSI/Electric heater. It heats quickly and recovers well.
Awhile ago, Doug posted the "input" specs on Attwood and Suburban heaters and as I recall Suburban demanded more LPG BTU's (and I believe electric also) so they probably heat and recover a little faster.
It's possible to replace one of the major brands with the other, but I think it's best to stick with whatever brand you need to replace. The mounting scheme and dimensions are different.
You've gotten great advice. There's NO shortage of E-Series Handling threads here. Couple comments:
Donn - A Good Alignment Shop will check and adjust all the primary angles which are Caster, Camber, and Toe. That shop will understand that proper alignment could call for "offset" bushings at the Upper Ball Joints. This makes E-Series alignment trickier and more labor-intensive (and therefore more expensive) than on a big straight-axle dump truck or road tractor.
Harvard - He's self-taught in alignment and has figured out what works. Setting Caster to Mid-Range (which most shops will try to do) is NOT something that works. As he pointed out, you want Caster on the High-Positive end of its range. Caster and Camber are both set at those upper ball joints. Caster is more important to us, but you don't want a totally wacked out Camber either.
Myself - I found that both C's we've had (both on Ford) experienced vague steering and wandering on the road until I got the Toe from Out (negative) to slightly IN (positive). The spec is Zero or Straight Ahead.
Another factor - Weight and Tire Pressure. Take it to a truck scale. If you can, get a weight for each corner, but you can work with Front and Rear Axle weights. We all know that excess tire pressure makes for harder ride, but excess FRONT tire pressure makes for instability in steering and tracking. HINT: You shouldn't ever need more than 65PSI and possibly much less in the Front Tires.
Front Axle Loading vs Rear - Your truck scale ticket will help here. There are two common suggestions. 1. Front Axle should be at least 75% loaded. 2. At least 1/3 of the total scale weight should be on the front axle. They work out to about the same thing. If your coach's wheelbase isn't long enough, that can be hard to achieve. We had an OP with about 27% on the front axle and could never get it to track on the road. Traded it/Sold it, I forget which.
So - What is the Wheelbase of your RV?
While we're talking engine cooling,
NEVER - Like Friends Don't let Friends.... Put a Flex Fan on an RV or Tow Vehicle!!! - NEVER
Why? You gear down to climb a steep grade. Engine Revs go UP, Heat Load goes UP. But Flex Fan FLATTENS because of the RPM. That's how they work. You're trying to cool a revving engine at wide open throttle, with a Flat Fan.
The problem with the typical Fan/Fan Clutch setup is that once the OEM clutch fails, it's very hard to get a suitable aftermarket replacement, and the OEM may well have discontinued the original. Hayden is a great product line, yet RV results with their "severe duty" replacement have been spotty. Still, we gotta do it. If we can't get OEM there's not much choice.
From what I'm reading now,
1. Make sure there isn't a wire hiding behind the battery now, that you removed to clean and missed on re-assembly.
2. Do the "wiggle test" on the remaining wiring connected to the battery. Vibration and Corrosion can cause the connection to fail. Even though the wire is still in the connector.
Yeah, it's a Heat Shield. They turn up in various places. Catalytic Converters render the exhaust much hotter than it was in the old days. To look at the pic you posted, having one at the edge of what's essentially a Plastic Body is a great idea.
Is that SunSeeker gonna be yours? Looks good. For the record, although both of our C's have been on Ford, I'd be very glad to have a Chevy platform. More cab room, better ride, better tracking, youbetcha! Now with a Six-Speed, even better!
Please provide a link or clicky to where this story begins. I feel like I missed the first 30 mins of a movie.
If the pictured relay is part of the vehicle, it probably works with another one like it to electrically reverse the permanent magnet (two-wire) window motors. Imagine putting two wires onto battery terminals. Motor runs one way. Switch the wires. Motor runs the other way. It takes two relays to accomplish that and both have to be good for the motor to run.
Sounds like you had a good time and the door latch failure didn't discourage you. You probably have a TriMark latch, a certain model, that has a cheap pot-metal part which breaks and locks you in/out. Search function will reveal it.
Hopefully Sonny's knows where to drill it from the outside so it can be opened, then removed, replaced.
It's happened here before, and somebody'll probably have more details.
Our 2003 coach has an Attwood/Wedgewood stove and NO thermocouple on the Oven Pilot. It will flow propane as soon as set to Pilot, and will continue after the pilot blows out.
In addition to the gas leakage risk, this is part of why I haven't installed electronic ignition on our range. Scenario: Oven Pilot is Lit but goes Out unnoticed. Chef presses the electronic button to light a surface burner. Electronic sparks the three surface burners AND the oven, which is flooded with Propane. I don't want to have to write the final line in this process...
How long have you been in this coach?
Has it gotten worse?
Or are you just getting tired of it?
The OEM shocks ride pretty well, but don't last long, so
How many miles on the coach?
The advice to weigh it and adjust the tire pressures it spot on. Best place to start.
CAT Truck Scales and Locator
Michelin's Weight/Inflation Chart works for other tire brands, so long as you match the tire's specs including load range to the table. Note that Front and Rear are different AND that the Michelin table uses Corner Weights, not Axle Weights. So on most scales you have to double Michelin's numbers to match say a CAT scale weight since you can't get each corner onto their scales.
Hopefully you won't need full "sidewall" pressure of 80PSI per rear tire. That would mean the rear axle was at capacity. Compare GAWR REAR with twice the Michelin max and you'll see that.
Likewise, you should not have More Than 65PSI in the front tires. Why? Because the GAWR Front (label in driver's door jamb) is 5000LB and that's what the tires it should have come with work out to at 65PSI Single Application.
Best thing most of us can do for Ride and Tracking is to set Front Tire Pressure to what the Load calls for.
Personally, Mrs and I don't sweat the ride or the noise. Part of that, we don't drive luxury vehicles as daily drivers. Another part is that we pound around in boats a lot. Finally, as eloquently stated above (crude, boxy, rattly) we accept our coach for what it is. Like a person, it does many things well, and some not so well.
I've bought a lot of boat trailer brake parts from Eastern Marine and they have lots of RV trailer brake parts as well. That includes complete brakes (backing plate, shoes, coils, adjusters, etc etc as described above. The put out specials, and there's a Cyber Monday discount today.
1. Shipment: I looked at uship(dot)com and like many they wanted me to provide more info to "set up an account" before they would price my shipment. I contacted three sites that required little to no information and of those I chose Freight Management Logistics. They handled everything. Provided an accurate quote by looking up the exact ICC description of what I was shipping, Scheduled carrier pickup, Issued Bill of Lading, Tracked Shipment. Picked up noon Monday, available to me morning of Wednesday. Price was $50 less than second best, half what another online quoted me, and just a little over half what a carrier quoted direct. I wholeheartedly recommend FML. The Carrier (R+L) forklifted the shipment into the bed of my pickup, but I had to sign a waiver. They expect to load/unload from a dock.
2. SuperCoils: Our Jayco's front axle is at its full GAWR of 4600, so I wanted an axle and springs rated 5000 to provide a little reserve. Also sits nose low so I wanted the lift offered by SuperCoils. Our friends at SD Truck Springs had the be price. Phone call said they're "in stock" but that turned out to be the Special Order Springs are In Stock at the manufacturer in California. That made it an item not eligible for the free shipping SD offers on many items. But they had a coupon that gets most of the shipping back. From what I'm told, removing one end of the shock absorber should let the axle drop enough that the spring will tip out of its pockets. I believe the Hellwig sway bar might hold the axle back and have to be disconnected also.
3. 594 Bushings: Might not always have been this way, but adjustable offset bushings aren't recommended for RVs, commercial trucks, and modified chassis. I'll re-use the offset bushings I have and let the alignment shop provide new fixed ones if needed.
Hope y'all had a great Thanksgiving.
I wonder if it's a grounding issue. Something just loose enough that warming or vibration lowers the resistance of the loose connection and gets things back to normal.
Years ago, we had a Dodge van. Old enough to have a headlight dimmer "button" on the floorboard. It was held in by two sheet metal screws and the instrument cluster ground was held down by one of them. That screw worked loose and strange things happened to gauge readings.
Problem, I think a wiring diagram is schematic, not pictorial, so it will show that there IS a Ground, but won't say WHERE the Ground is made up.