Yea, I'm not sure what the deal with Ace Hardware and Craftsman tools. I was suprised to see a wall of sockets.. My 13mm 1/4 drive socket I bought the other day was clearly made in the USA but the tag said something like "distributed by Sears"...
So, if Sears goes down does that mean Craftsman will too?
It's a sad state for these once respectable department stores... Out of touch and they are dying.
Back to Ace hardware... They seem to be growing around here... Once small family hardware stores are being turned into Ace Hardware but they are wearing the old family name. On near me was once called Smiths hardware now it's Smiths Ace Hardware. Must be a franchise thing.
I have never tried to buy used hand tools, but I may have to start. Time to hit up some yard sales.
This thread is getting old!
X2 It was tired about a week ago.
Is NewS back?
That was NewsW buddy. But your right, sounds like the same person to me.:B
Kinda miss ole NewsW and his infatuation with the 6.0 PSD...LOTS OF FUN...
There is a huge difference in towing a flat utility trailer at 6,000 lbs and a Travel a Trailer at 4,000 lbs. the huge difference is aerodynamics. Aerodynamics require horse power to overcome, unfortunately for cars like yours and mine, our peak HP happens in the upper RPM band.
People get all worked up about towing uphill. That is only a small % of a typical RV trip...however you can face a strong headwind for DAYS depending on conditions and where you are towing, do you want to spend Days at 4500 RPM just to maintain speed because you are fighting aerodynamic drag.
Then there are other factors to consider.
How much weight is in the tow vehicle?
What is the rating on the receiver hitch itself?
Is the receiver even rated for weight distribution?
People here are not trying to discourage you, they are trying to help you understand the towing dynamics you are going to be dealing with when you tow a travel trailer.
I'm not saying you can't tow a travel trailer, I just want you to be informed of all the factors.
I have a 3,600 lb tow rating. What I found was the smaller single axle trailer can have a pretty high tongue weight. You likely have a 350 lb max tongue weight receiver hitch.
Basically, you are limited like I am to pop ups, A-Liners, small KZ sportsman's, and fiberglass egg trailers. 2400-2600 lbs dry was what I was looking for before deciding my family needs more trailer.
Good luck in your search.
You are absolutly correct. The new Titan will shake things up as well. I can't imagine 500 lb ft of TQ in a light duty truck. Heck, my old V10 only had 400 ish lb ft. If the story was true tap hat I read about the possibility of the Titan having a Heavy duty package that will up payload and tow rating... nissan may really have something good that the market will respond positively too.
GM has the NHT package
Ford has Max Tow and Max Payload packages
Now Nissan with a HD type package.
Toyota needs to get on the ball. Lol
Yep, compare the Tundra to a Ram 1500. The Tundra is a much more comfortable truck to drive, handles like a car. Otherwise check reliability ratings. That is, if reliability is what matters to you. I've driven Toyotas for the last 15 years and have yet to have a mechanical problem, not one. Pushing a million miles now, don't think you will find that with another brand.
I've driven both trucks, new Tundras are very comfortable as well as the Ram's. Back in 09 I nearly bought a Tundra. Earlier in the post I said Ram 1500 and it wasn't even close. I still agree with that statement, and it's not a slight against the Tundra, it's a dang good half ton. The problem with Tundra is that Toyota has done almost nothing since it came to Market nearly 9 years ago except a facelift last year. The Pentastar V6 is better than the now defunct Tundra V6, the EcoDiesel is a risk for Ram, they seem to be selling well, at least Ram took a risk. The Hemi has had constant improvements since it was introduced. In 07 I would say the I-force was better than the Hemi...now with MDS and the improved power and fuel Economy, the edge goes to Hemi Ram.
I've got well over a million miles logged in mostly domestic (loosely used term) cars and haven't had more than a water Pump fail... With the exception of an abused Firebird that I blew up the motor in.
My Current 2000 Town Car has 161k miles on it and is about to have the entire front end rebuilt. It's just time. Toyota's are great cars, but they need maintenence... If you keep any car long enough you will have to replace or rebuild parts.
Tundra is a good truck, I think Ram is the better buy. Of course, that's my opinion.... And it seems that the majority of truck buyers agree by not buying a Tundra. Now when the diesel Tundra shows up, the game will change.
Harbor Freight tools work just fine.
Limited Lifetime Warranty on Hand Tools
"Harbor Freight Tools makes every effort to ensure that our products meet high quality and durability standards and warrants to the original purchaser that eligible products are free from defects in material and workmanship for the life of the product. This warranty does not apply to damage due (directly or indirectly) to misuse, abuse-negligence, accidents, repairs, alterations outside our facilities or to lack of maintenance. We shall in no event be liable for death, injuries to persons or property or for incidental, contingent, special or consequential damages arising from the use of our product. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you.
To take advantage of this warranty, the product or part must be returned to us with transportation charges prepaid. Proof–of–purchase date and an explanation of the complaint must accompany the merchandise. If our inspection verifies the defect, we will either repair or replace the product at our election or we may elect to refund the purchase price if we cannot readily and quickly provide you with a replacement. We will return repaired products at our expense, but if we determine there is no defect, or that the defect resulted from causes not within the scope or our warranty, then you must bear the cost of storing and returning the product. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state. Harbor Freight's lifetime tool warranty is one of the strongest in the business, and one of the main reasons for millions of satisfied customers!"
I have some adjustable wrenches from Harbor Freight. It's pretty good stuff.
Just a note here.
My last trailer was a 95 Layton by Skyline. I'm trying to speak from experience here.
If you spend all your budget on the purchase you may find yourself in a lot of trouble. I bought my trailer for $3300.00. And everything worked when I purchased it.
I put the trailer into pretty hard use and over the next 18 months I had to buy
1) new propane regulator and connector hoses
2) new tires
3) misc. latches and doo dads
4) new awning
5) new water heater
6) generous amounts of caulking as the camper had little maintenance over the years.
7) new power tongue Jack
All in all the camper had around $2500 put into it after I bought it. The people who bought the camper from us got a much nicer camper than we bought due to the upgrades.
Not even close...
Tundra is not nearly the truck a Ram 3500 is.
Are you sure your comparing a Tundra to a one ton series Ram or are you comparing Half ton to half ton. That would be a Tundra to a Ram 1500? (Half to to half ton)
That one is easy too...Ram 1500 by a landslide. :D
The part of the Video that I dislike is the old argument that if you cause an accident and your overloaded it will make you more liable for the accident. Not to argue that point, but if your under capacity and you cause an accident...your still liable, negligent, etc etc.
Not calling you out. Just saying I do it and it's all within specs. Current F350 SRW's have about 3k of payload by the scale and Rams have 3500. You mention a lot of additional gear too which you might need to bring but the op could do without or place in his trailer storage to reduce weight on the truck. You also mention having a large family in the tv but the op is looking at what I would call a retirement floor plan that is a two person luxury trailer. I'm guessing it's a him and her situation in the truck. I do agree with you the a DRW gives more flexibility on loading etc. though.
Great points! Thanks for the discussion. It's amazing how people view these threads through the lens of their own circumstance. In my case it's my family since I have kids at home still. After my last response I had to run to the store to pick up a tool. On my way to te store I saw a BigHorn fiver being pulled by a SRW Superduty. Kinda made me chuckle to myself thinking about this thread.
Your 100% right, as long as it's in spec it doesn't matter if it's SRW or DRW. In my case it would have to be a DRW. But not everyone is in my situation and not everyone loads a trailer up to GVWR.
Not sure if this is the right place to post this or not.
I've been a big fan of Craftsman hand tools much of my adult life. As a matter of fact, my go-to sockets and wrenches are Craftsman. I do not own Snap-On or other 'premium' brand of wrenches and sockets. Always been pretty proud of the tools in my tool box. With the exception of some hand me down wrenches that were made in Tiawan
Today, I needed a specific socket so I went to my local Ace hardware and picked up my new Craftsman 13mm socket. One the way to the checkout counter I noticed a set of 7 metric Craftsman wrenches on sale for $9.99. I only had a few metric wrenches so on impulse I bought these new Craftsman wrenches.
Once home I opened them up and saw seven shiny new wrenches in a nice black roll. SWEET.
The wrenches look pretty good, then I noticed... "made in China" right there on the box.
As a light duty user, I am going to keep them, they seem to be pretty good quality. But, these are my first Craftsman hand tools that are Made in China.
Here are some pics comparing to my 16 year old Craftsman 1/2 and 9/16 wrench.
USA made on the top
The shiny one is the China made one
Here is all seven plus the USA made standard.
I know it wears the Craftsman name...the quality seems to be okay for general home owner use... but its pretty sad when you can ONLY say you are supporting American retail jobs.
Will I continue to willingly buy Craftsman hand tool? Will I discriminate the tool and only buy copies that are Made in the USA? Thats a great question. I would prefer USA Made tools. But the Chinese Craftsman seem okay for general use.
Thoughts? Discussion? Do you think these Chinese tools okay for general use?
Okay, the Amsoil OE is in the van along with the Wix oil filter. Of course its way to early to tell if there is a major difference.
The engine was noticeably quieter, the Pentastar is not the quietest motor in the world. Made a pretty significant difference in the sound. Even my wife commented that she "couldn't hear anything"
So, thats pretty cool, we will see how this oil works out. So far so good though.
This oil change has to be the easiest oil change I have ever done. The oil filter is on top of the motor and super easy to access.
Do the math of the added $4,000 cost of the Ecodiesel over the 2.7L Ecoboost. The added cost of maintenance where both are recomended to change the oil at 10,000 miles but the Ecoboost oil change will cost about $40-50 to where just the oil filter alone for the Ecodiesel cost about that much. Edmunds.com reported that the oil change for their long term test Ecodiesel costs them $154 here..
Not going to dispute the oil change cost, as that's the reality of many european diesels. Best price I could find the oil that the 3.0 calls for is 7 bucks a quart in the open market and the filter is especially heinous in price @ 50 bucks. However, you can't compare the $4k up-charge for the Ecodiesel against any other vehicle except the vehicles in its line (Hemi and Pentastar). I've personally optioned up an F-150 XLT against a RAM Bighorn (2.7 versus 3.0) and found that they nearly matched in price and several other automotive rags made the same observation (Motortrend).
However, maintenance costs for the Ecodiesel at this point will be higher. Still, I wonder how the hell they get away with a $25 fuel filter when the HD diesel guys have to spend roughly $100 for fuel filters... Well, I wonder what the ISV in the Nissan will do as many believe, for RAM, that's the engine that got away.
Then there is the added cost of diesel in the mix. Going by the EPA highway numbers and the most up to date average cost of gasoline versus diesel in the US of unleaded being $2.457 with diesel being $.40 higher, the 28 mpg of the Ecodiesel is equivalent to a gasoline engine getting 24 mpg which is well below the 2.7L Ecoboost EPA numbers so the Ecodiesel would cast more in fuel. If you go by the real world combined numbers that most review sites are getting for both engines(Ecodiesel 23 mpg and 2.7L Ecoboost 20 mpg) then you would still pay more in fuel for the Ecodiesel than the Ecoboost per year. So there's no added fuel cost benefit there either unless you were towing more than 15% of your annual mileage which most don't. There is also the factor that Ram only offers the Ecodiesel with a 27 gallon tank while the Ecoboost can be optioned with a 37 gallon tank giving you a longer or equal range for the most part even when towing.
Again, this depends on where you live and where you do the majority of driving. Diesel in the PNW has flipped flopped with Unleaded for the past few weeks and unleaded is only about a dime cheaper than Diesel as I type this. Where as in the northeast, Diesel is way more expensive than gas. Then for realistic fuel economy, I like to look at the fuel economy curve for the manufacturers. Ford 2.7's fuel economy really can't be determined because there isn't enough samples yet. But the sample base is building and in 6 months, we should get a clear picture of where the average is. As it stands, the distribution is from 16 to 21mpg with no curve to speak of. As for the Ecodiesel, it seems to have a great number of users posting between 21 and 26 mpg average (I'm ignoring the outliers on the high and low sides). That's a 5 mpg difference from lowest to lowest and highest to highest when comparing curve to curve (although the 2.7 will need more samples before we can firm-up an analysis between the two). But as it is, that's 25% fuel economy difference from Ecoboost to Ecodiesel.
So basically, this is what you get with the Ecodiesel over the 2.7L Ecoboost. You have to pay about $4,000 more for it up front. You have to pay over 3 times as much for maintenance. You have to pay more in fuel for most of the time unless you tow more than 15% of your annual mileage. All this for something that has less pulling power, less payload, and struggles to even keep within 10 mph of the speed limit going up hills. So where is the benefit in it?
I think people are being blinded by only looking at the MPG number and the fact that it is diesel, but neglect to look at the big picture and do the math. I can see paying more for the Ecodiesel if it had better towing performance and more capability along with its fuel mileage which is why I went with the Cummins over the 6.4L Hemi in my 2500. However, I can't see paying more all the way around and getting less performance and less capability. It just doesn't make sense.
Again, that's some broad generalization. Some people, the math works out, others it doesn't. Some people merely want the ability to carry bulky, but light items along with their family and many never hook a hitch up to a half ton truck. The Ecodiesel works well in that regard and those that occasionally tow something small. I'm not in that boat, and many on here are not in that boat.
Plus no matter what you do to the little EcoBoost the truck that it's wrapped in is UGGGGGLLLY...by far the worst looking F150 ever. IMHO :D
I would choose the EcoDiesl over the EcoBoost based on the personal preference of me hating the looks of the new F150 alone.
But, something I have said before is that the EcoDiesel has no real advantage over the Pentastar Ram. In sheer HP the Pentastar wins. In seat of the pants feel the Pentastar wins (IMHO again, I drove them back to back)
Now, how reliable will the EcoDiesel actually be once some users have logged serious towing miles? That remains to be seen.
The op never said his pin weight was 4k. It's more likely to be 3k. And like I said, fully loaded and ready to travel, a SRW is close to 8500. So, considering the trucks GVWR is 11.5k or more, completely within spec. So, what I disagree with is everything you wrote.
Yea, 20% of 16,000 is what 3,200 lbs...okay, I was off by 800 lbs. Kudos for calling me out on that. For me and my family that means we would be putting 5,000-5,000 lbs on the truck by the time we are in the truck and stuff is in the bed. There is not many if any SRW made that can handle that kind of weight.
My recommendation for a Dually still stands.
If the OP can get a SRW with 4,000 lbs of payload and keep his hitch, gear, and people under 800 lbs combined then it's workable. Otherwise he may be looking at an overload situation.
Can it be done with a SRW? Yep,
I still recommend a Dually for this load.
Ymmv enjoy your rig you have a very nice one.