What is the biggest converter that it will be able to handle when charging 3 pair of depleted GC 6v batteries...
Theoretically the EU2000i should be able to power a 125A power factor corrected converter long enough to charge that ~600Ah battery bank or a 150A PFC converter for a few minutes. The issue is that most converters are not PFC.
I don't own a "converter", but my Honda has no problem charging my batteries at a true 100A via my (PFC=0.99) inverter/charger, even at 6000ft.
It's the stock axle. I assumed it was the 60 since that used to be the common axle.
Dodge stopped using Dana front axles in '02. The stock axle in your truck is an AAM 9.25 without a center axle disconnect… Unfortunately, in stock form it's undersized for our trucks, especially those tiny little ball joints and unserviceable unit bearings. The lousy factory steering linkage doesn't help either. However, if you throw a ton of money at the AAM (ball joints, u-joints, locking hubs, etc, etc) it can be made to do the job well.
A Dana 60 swap would be awesome, both on and off-road... though it'd be a lot of work and very expensive. Not worth the $$ IMO.
True, our Ram trucks are definitely not wheelers… but your rig looks awesome!
It's already got a dana60 front end...
Wow, did you replace your AAM 9.25 with the Dana 60? If so, that's very cool (well, except for the CAD maybe)!!
I'm interested to hear about this upgrade and why you chose an axle with CAD instead of going with locking hubs.
Let's say you had 3k to spend. What mods would you do to improve your truck's on road ability and why?
Hmmm, well the answers depend largely upon your definition of "on road ability", and you haven't told us much about your other truck mods so far... other than the airbags & overload bump stops.
This is what I'd do if it was my $3k, listed in the order I'd choose to do them:
• EGT & boost gauges. (~$175)
• '08 steering linkage upgrade (IF it hasn't already been done under recall, ~$375), a DSS steering stabilizer (~$200) and a heavy duty track bar ($325). These items will significantly improve the handling/steering and eliminate "death wobble"
• RoadMaster rear anti-sway bar (~$300).
• Since you're hauling & towing, the 48RE transmission is a weak link and unfortunately a complete rebuild is well over your $3k budget…. however you could upgrade the valve body (~$600) & tripple disk torque converter (~$1,295) which would make a huge improvment in the performance & longevity of the trans'.
All that adds up to around $3,270, depending upon where you shop.
Maybe Santa will feel extra generous this year ;)
They are not going to warranty tires it's not there problem.
The warranty is from the tire manufacturer, not the shop… as long as you have a sales receipt the manufacturer should honor the warranty. Dynatrac tires are imported/sold by American Tire Distributors (Heafner Tire Group)… Suggest you give them a call, they have a distribution center in Indianapolis (317-396-5601)
What's the best change you've made to your TC?
I do certainly get a lot of benefit from the electrical system mod's I've done, and I always enjoy reading about these upgrades by fellow TC owners... solar, batteries, inverter, etc... all very handy! But we could still travel & camp comfortably without those niceties; e.g. We have a small battery powered LED lantern for light and a down comforter to snuggle under when it's cold.
But we are a family of four, and that means lots of stuff in the TC. So the "best change" I made to the TC was to make a place for all the stuff by building out the wardrobe in the cabover area. This storage solution has worked out so well that this winter I'll be building a similar set of cubbies on the driver's side. :D
I purchased a DC Volt/Ammeter from the same eBay seller about a year ago... suspect it's from the exact same manufacturer too.
Of course, since it's DC, it uses a shunt to measure current.
I installed it in the dash of my truck... works great... plenty accurate... inexpensive... very handy!
I have been using Lynx Levelers for many years.... carry 'em on the TC bumper (see pics below)
- I use them a lot... almost every time I camp
- Very happy with their performace and ease of use
- They are plenty big, just the right height too
- It's hard to imagine "sliding off" of them (since other tires would also be sliding), but I have had them slide forward on smooth concrete when attempting to drive up them... easily remedied by engaging 4WD
- They have never collapsed and I've stacked 'me up pretty tall, even on soft terrain
- Worth every penny
- Yep, I'd buy 'em again
- Nothing wrong with home made blocks... But it would be hard to make something as light/easy/versatile/simple/cheap as the Lynx Levelers
- I never level with my jacks! but occasionally I'll lower them just until they touch the ground to add stability
Question is, what should be my cut off voltage charge setting in my solar controller?.... I have it currently set at 14.2 volts
Hi Mr. E
14.2V is too low for bulk/absorption charging and too high for float.
For best performance and long service life, those DieHard Platinums (EnerSys/Odyssey AGM's) should be charged like this:
They tried to rebalance and then took all the external weights off and used something call balancing beads.
DynaBeads are a band-aid for fixing issues that can't be corrected by match-mounting and proper balancing... There is no way I'd use them in my brand new tires until I'd exhausted every other possible option. If a wheel/tire combo can't be made to balance with conventional weights (or even weight patches) then the manufacturer should warranty the tire and give you a free replacement.
As I stated previously; I suggest that you find a shop that knows how to mount truck tires.
Is Force balance the same as computer balance?
No, "road force balancing" is not the same as computer spin balancing. A road force balancer has the ability to apply a load (1250 lbs!) to the tire while it is rotating and can detect out of round conditions, hard spots, or other defects in the tire... and ensure that the least amount of weight is used to achieve a perfect balance. In addition these balancers can measure tire pull and indicate where to position each wheel on your truck so that it tracks straight.
I suggest that you find an experienced local shop with a Hunter 9700 balancer, understands how to use it correctly, and knows how to match-mount truck tires.
I have a 100 watt solar panel. I want to use this 1 panel to charge 2 separate batteries in different locations.
Have you done a power budget? Are you charging or just maintaining these 2 batteries?
Do you need more than 100W?? If so then add a second panel and controller.
If 100W is enough then just get a Morningstar SunSaver Duo and call it a day.
I have Vision 19.5's on my '05 Ram 3500 and the ride is smooth as glass!!
You definitely need to have them match-mounted and road force balanced by a shop that knows how to balance truck wheels/tires... most don't! A qualified shop will be able to tell you if the tires have uncorrectable road force and if so the manufacturer should warranty the tire(s) for you.
Stud centering is fine, you don't need a centering ring if your truck is SRW. Centramatics and/or DynaBeads may reduce/eliminate the vibration, but they are band-aids for wheels that cannot be balanced with conventional wheel weights or tire weight-patches.
Also if your wheels are not seated against the hubs you are at serious risk of shearing off studs! You should remedy that issue ASAP! (Note: my truck doesn't have "wheel stud clips", so I'm not sure what you're talking about)
I don't know where Wheel Rack is located, but if you're anywhere near Northern California, I suggest you pay a visit to Custom Alignment in Mountain View.
Hope this helps,
I built a small fan-in-a-box and installed it (along with a speed control) into the toe-kick area below my cabinetry... then ran a 2" duct from there into the basement. Works great...
I was looking for info on trying to charge, recharge AGM Batteries. If a convenional automatic charger is set to the deep cycle 2 amp setting, will this over charge the AGM Battery?
You didn't state which charger you are using and what brand/capacity batteries you have... As a result, it's difficult to give you a hard and fast answer. However, there is a good chance that your 2A "automatic charger" will over charge your batteries if it isn't designed to charge AGM's. I suggest that you look for a charger with a charging profile that is similar to the one shown below (from Odyssey). Having temperature compensation is also beneficial, especially if you intend to keep the charger connected for a long period of time.
Hope this helps.
I own two EU2000i's and I fail to see any benefit to having a "Companion" model.
The ONLY thing that the Companion has to offer is a 30A (L5-30R) twist lock receptacle which still needs a $20 adaptor to connect to a 30A RV plug... and it has a single 20A (5-20R) receptacle and no 12V charge outlet. For $100 more, you get less utility.
IMO the "better option" is to own two regular EU2000i's. This gives you two discrete generators each with a pair of 20A receptacles (note: the EU2K's max output is 16.7A) and 12V battery charge outlet**. A simple paralleling box like the one I made (photo below) can be easily assembled with $30 worth of parts from your local hardware store... Then you can plug in your shore power cord and get the full 30A output.
If you're only buying one, get a regular EU2000i and a pick up a $3 15A to 30A-RV adaptor !
**There are lots of people who like to complain about the EU2000's measly 12V 8A charging circuit. Granted you're not going to do much actual charging with that :M But I have successfully used my Honda's to charge a dozen or more times to charge a dead car's battery enough to get the engine started... Sometimes an 8A charger is all you need.
I have a 2011 F350 6.7 diesel with dual alternators. Has anyone on this forum done this? Is there a source of premade cables and ancillary hardware to accomplish this?
I don't have a F350, but I do have a high output DC Power alternator in my RAM that is wired to the batteries in my TC with 2Ga cable. I regularly see 100+A charge current @ 14.7V from truck to camper when I drive or engage high idle (1100 motor RPMs)... so that's ~1.5kW with just one alternator. It seems reasonable enough, with a big budget, the right alternators, wiring, inverter, and a load to operate... that you could have yourself a 3.7kW "generator".
The real benefit of a high current (and/or dual) alternator set up is the ability to re-charge a large house battery bank very quickly while driving. Personally, I wouldn't choose to use my truck as a stationary "generator" on a daily basis, though I'd certainly high-idle the engine long enough to cook dinner in the microwave if I ever needed to.
With regard to the hardware you need to make it work;
- You will need a way to isolate the truck and camper electrical systems... You can use a simple high current solenoid or manual disconnect switch, or you can choose a battery isolator like the ones manufactured by Hellroaring. I went the manual disconnect route:
- There are several online businesses that will make custom cables for you, for example; Custom Battery Cables and 2X Power... but you can also go to a local reputable welding supply shop to get them made up.
- Assuming you intend to remove the TC from your truck from time to time, you'll also need a connector that is rated for the amount of current you plan to pass through it. Anderson PowerPole connectors are popular with TC owners, but I chose to use a 200A "lift gate connector":
- And finally, don't forget to install some circuit protection on each end of the cabling. VTE is a good source for fuses, fuse holders, and cable boots.
Anybody look into these sear die hard Advanced Gold AGM batteries?
Those do appear to be re-badged Deka AGM' and at the $123 sale price they're a good buy! But IMHO, if I were buying AGM batteries at Sears I'd spend the extra $$ to get the Platinum's in a Group 31 size (assuming they'll fit). They are manufactured by EnerSys and identical to the Odyssey line of batteries.
I like the Gold/Deka spec better than the Platinum/Enersys. It should have 79AH rating where the Platinum is by Enersys(Oddysey) and only has 68AH for the same weight.
I think Deka makes very high quality batteries! That said, That Deka Gp34M battery is rated at 55Ah, 775CCA, and weighs 42.5lbs.
The Odyssey PC1400 (Platinum Gp34) is rated at 68Ah, 880CCA, and weighs 49.5lbs
Flooded Electrolyte Advantages:
Lowest initial cost - True!!
Higher cranking amps so excellent for starting applications - False. In many cases AGM's offer higher CCA than FLA's do
Water can be added when over charged - True
Tolerant of improper recharge voltage - True, as long as electrolyte level is monitored. IMHO, this is the #1 FLA advantage!
Certain designs are good for deep cycle applications - True, but not more so than AGM's
Replacements readily available True, but not more so than AGM's. For example, the DieHard Platinum's are available at hundreds of Sears stores across the country.
Good under extreme cold conditions when fully charged. True, but given the same temp' & SOC, AGM's outperform FLA's