RE: DIY Insulating with spray foam kit
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IMO, stay away from the diluted DIY Spray foam kits. Hire a contractor and ask them to use Closed Cell 2 lbs (aka: Medium density) Professional grade stuff. The DIY kits is water compared to the professional grade formula.
Note: Spray foam now comes in fire resistant version. Great for inside TT walls and roof cavity area.
If wondering, I got professional grade Spray Foam under my TT. Before and after is like comparing night and day. IMO, all RVs should be use Spray Foam (instead of water sucking / water holding fibreglass bat) insulation. Contractor Grade Spray Foam is amazing stuff.
RE: Converter upgrade question
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Do keep in mind the factory 40A unit and next size up 45A unit is the MAX output of the each unit. If all 12V items are ON are under 40 Amp "load", then full benefits of next higher size Convertor will never be used. I went next size up (40 to 45 Amp) because I like running things below 80% load. Thus, having 20% comfort buffer "when" (and only "when") all 12V consumption items are ON at the same time.
Long mumblings short... If no additional 12V items (like 12V power jack) are installed, the MAX Amp power output of next large size convertor won't be used. Thus, no need for a thicker wire that needs to support 45A load...
Hope this helps..This is not always the case.
If you boondock, and run the battery low, then charge it via generator or shore power....It will likely see the full output.
If Factory Convertor is 40 Amp and one replaces with "next size up" 45 Amp and NO additional 12V items are added to factory configuration, please explain how a 45 Amp replacement would need to "delivery" more then 40 Amps. If needing to delivery more than 40 Amps (which is factory configuration), it would have over stressed the factory 40 amp converter multiple times.
Since I don't understand your statement (of needing more than factory), please explain.
RE: Converter upgrade question
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Regarding your 12 Volt Wire Gauge size question, surf chart within - Click Here -
Since 45 Amp isn't listed, split the average between 40 and 50 Amp. Or, use 50 Amp load for some extra buffer. And for total length, remember to use combined length of + and - wires. re: 5 + 5 = 10 feet within the chart. re: 10 Gauge wire size.
Hope this helps...
RE: Converter upgrade question
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My previous 1993 19ft Prowler TT had a factory 40A convertor and it blew (during a lightning storm and CG power grid endured power surge). I replaced with next size up PD9145AV (45 Amp unit). Simple out with the old and install the new - with NO wire changes. And it worked great. On the good side, the new technology PD9145AV was smaller size and even had a near silent fan. win-win on many fronts.
If wondering, my current TT now uses 2 x Tier Surge Protection. But, that's a topic for a different post.
Do keep in mind the factory 40A unit and next size up 45A unit is the MAX output of the each unit. If all 12V items are ON are under 40 Amp "load", then full benefits of next higher size Convertor will never be used. I went next size up (40 to 45 Amp) because I like running things below 80% load. Thus, having 20% comfort buffer "when" (and only "when") all 12V consumption items are ON at the same time.
Long mumblings short... If no additional 12V items (like 12V power jack) are installed, the MAX Amp power output of next large size convertor won't be used. Thus, no need for a thicker wire that needs to support 45A load...
Hope this helps..
RE: Dexter Axle upgrade 3500 to 5200
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Yes. Replacing "at max weight edge" 3500 lbs axles with higher rated axles is a great idea. Actually, it's a very smart idea. Remember to measure Hub Fact to Hub face and if needed, order axle 1" longer (giving 1/2" wider on each side). If wondering, my one trailer's factory axle tires would rub. I replaced axle with higher rated axle that was 1" longer and it worked great. No more rubbing (because the factory axle was too short).
For hub face to hub face measuring, surf: - click here -
Also remember that going up size axle haz stronger electric brakes as well. Having more brakes than needed is a great thing as well.
Hope this helps.
RE: Considering getting a travel trailer in the future
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If you call any local GM dealer and provide them your vehicle's VIN number, they will provide the vehicle's pulling power (built at factory).
Subtract all Tow Vehicle internal passenger and rear cargo weight items. Subtract this total weight number from your provided Towing Weight "empty vehicle" MAX towing power weight number. Thus, giving you the real MAX towing weight number - for your "average loaded" vehicle. Then, subtract 10% of this weight number for towing against strong head wind and up steep hills. Thus, creating the "most comfortable" MAX towing weight number. Especially for an older 2000 age vehicle (being used as a Tow Vehicle). Remember... A vehicle consistently towed at this max numbers has a high risk of blowing a transmission or having some other high stress problem.
Being a pickup, one can then decide if you want a TT or a 5er. A 5er is a friendlier towing shape (due to position of its pin weight) but one looses the rear space of their pickup. The same floor level TT shape is great for someone with bad legs. re: No stairs into the master bedroom area.
Then, one must decide if they want a slide or NO slide. Some folks love slides and some folks hate slides. If wondering, slides do add extra weight (of same length of TT). Which may also mean shorter length in TT or 5er design.
For any Trailer (TT or 5er design), one then decides on floor plan. Some trailer's have better layout for watching TV (like on rainy / bad weather days) and others have better bathroom location. For me, I like bathroom near the main door and bedrooms at both ends of the TT. And, middle area of kitchen and living room area. For others, they like living room in rear with large sofa chairs - looking out large rear windows.
After good floor plan is finalized, decide if brand new or pre-owned. If wondering, I buy 1.5-3 years pre-owned. I get great financial deal and do NOT get extended warranty. I've yet to encounter a problem that I couldn't fix myself. And when I do fix it myself, I make better than factory (so it won't break again). Remember that brand new doesn't mean problem free. Being 1.5 - 2 years old means the 1st owner mostly likely got the little warranty repair items fixed (under their hassle and time).
The above might work for you as well...
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RE: What method do you use to jack up your 5er or trailer?
I use a bottle jack on the axle, between the U bolts.
This method works for me as well. And best of all, I only need to lift the tire 1" (or so) off the ground. No need to lift the entire chassis 6" high - to get the wheel 1" off the ground. Less chassis twist the better...
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RE: Was I miss informed
GeoCel ProFlexRV makes an RV specific type of sealer and it's good stuff! WoodGlue
+1.
I love - click here - as well. Its expensive. But, well worth it.
RE: Roof Type Question
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When my 2006 Jayco's EDPM roof needs a good "top surface" re-coating (and its base is still solid), I'll be focusing on EDPM Liquid rubber roof. Don't know which exact product but something like - click here -
Good DIY video @ - Click Here -
If wondering, I'd probably buy 2 x 1 gallon cans and "pace myself" around the edges and around the roof vents (and under AC unit). And when my older age body is ready for more physical work, I'd probably use their 5 gallon can do perform entire roof flat surface. Slow and steady (over 5-7 day time period) - like that old age racing turtle. LOL!
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RE: Window leak
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Best to 100% remove the window. If foam seal behind the window lip, simply remove it. Then, apply butyl tape on the inside of window lip. Then, reinstall the window.
To make the window's outer lip look cosmetically good afterwards, simply apply clear ProflexRV (clear @ - Click Here - ) around the window's lip / RV wall (using masking tape to make its edges look smooth).
For a good video, surf: - Click Here -
As shown in above Video, very simple DIY using common home maintenance tools...
RE: Any Experience With Insulation?
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Before spaying the E450 cargo box van with spray foam insulation, I highly recommend the install of a ceiling vent (variable speed) and small side windows as well. Get the small RV rated side windows that can open up. When roof top fan pushes air out, the OPEN side windows allow air to come into the large cavity. Variable speed fan motor to adjust both CFMs and sound as well. re: - click here - And, remember to install the roof cover over it. re: - click here - Note: Pick black over bedroom areas and white over living room area. Thus, control light entry as well.
For good video to install vent and Maxx air cover, surf: - click here -
Note: before screwing down the vent assembly to the roof, add some dicor sealer between the roof and vent flange. Give vent assembly a few small 1/2" twists (to squeeze some of the dicor out of the touching layers), then suck down the roof vent using screws. Thus, sealing the roof vent to the roof surface even better.
If not into large roof top fans with covers (and travel in NO snow regions), do investigate - click here -
If wondering, sealing a home, RV or even a box van cavity too much does allow moisture to be trapped inside it. Thus, best to install a power fan and "you" can manually control its air flow behavior. Just like folks install a power fan inside a RV & home's bathroom.
Hope this helps as well...
RE: Seasonal Campsite expectations
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If that specific seasonal site isn't for you, then do chat with the CG Owner. Some places (like my seasonal site private owner) allows credit for remaining months of the year. He only gives credit if a different person wants to rent the exact same lot. And, he rounds to the nearest month - before charging each Trailer owner. Some seasonal site owners don't allow credit (rebate - or return dollars) on remaining months. Others do. Doesn't hurt to ask...
Hope this helps..
RE: Seasonal Campsite expectations
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Forgot to mention...
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If you do build a large deck, do not design / build its base and top boards like a normal home deck. Simply build its based boards in sections and lay down its top boards in the opposite direction. The foundation 5ft x 9.5ft sections are bolted together using horizontal galvanized bolts. And its top boards are screwed down to each section. When you want to move this deck to a different seasonal site, simply undo the underside horizontal bolts and slide each section into a 6x10 landscape trailer. And, ensure its posts and stars are bolted in and can be easily removed as well. If wondering, my seasonal site's deck in built in sections and when we want to move to a different seasonal site, we simply "un-bold" and move the sections to a different seasonal camp site.
Hope this helps as well...
RE: Seasonal Campsite expectations
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My current seasonal site had a "shared" 15A outlet (yes, not even a "dedicated" 15A outlet), lot is slopped ground and tree branches at eye level. Very raw and ver dangerous (especially to the eyes). During year 1, I simply trimmed the branches away, put boards under the one set of tires (to level the trailer) and build a small 4x4 "landing" at a RV door. Tried the seasonal site for 1 full year. Since we liked it, I then build the proper deck. If it didn't work out, I would have sold the little landing (in the fall) and recovered most of my dollars. If wondering, the stair from year 1 4x4 landing is now bolted on our large deck. And its under boards were used to build the much larger deck as well. re: Reuse boards - where possible.
Lots can be made safer and "look pretty". Lots can get another layer of top soil and some grass seed as well. Stairs (landing or full size decks) can be built as well. And, Service Post electrical outlets (which was upgraded to dedicated 30A on year 2) can be upgraded as well. Always remember "location, location, location" saying...
Today, our seasonal site with full size deck and little tin shed is, surf: - click here -
IMO, seasonal trailer lots are like a raw chunk of clay. re: An opportunity for one to be creative and to make your own.... Especially in the long run....
RE: Any Experience With Insulation?
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For a good comparison of fibreglass batt insulation vs. "inner cavity" foam, surf: - click here -
This RV foam video is worth watching as well.
Hope this helps as well..
RE: Any Experience With Insulation?
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Forgot to mention...
If spray foam is burned, its killer smoke instantly knocks down humans. Many spray foam companies recommended a fire protection covering "over" their spray foam as well. Especially where humans might sleep.
If their fire protection spray (over the spray foam layer) is too expensive, and your inner walls are flat surface, do investigate cement board covering as well. Same cement board (with proper galvanized screws) that folks install in their bathroom shower walls (before tiling the walls). re: - click here - If wondering, this cement board is available at home hardware type stores as well.
When my RV/TTs inner walls needs spray foam, I'll be applying cement board in the bedrooms. Then, install the normal 1/4" wall paneling sheets over the cement wall board. And, installing a smoke detector in each RV/TT bedroom as well. Thus, increasing human safety (from killer smoke) protection as well.
Hope this helps as well..
RE: Any Experience With Insulation?
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Spray Foam (2 lbs / medium density) Closed Cell "contractor grade" within RV walls, ceiling and underbelly is an amazing product. If wondering, I applied 3-4" under my 2006 TT and am very impressed with its before and after results. Not only did it create 7.5 R "per inch" with vapour barrier, Contractor Grade spray foam also tightened up its floor movement. IMO, Spray Foam insulation should be minimum factory build in all RVs - just like housing industry is realizing that Spray Foam in outside house walls is a great thing as well.
Lessons learned:
- Stay away from those diluted DIY Kits - like Tiger and other companies. Only use Contractor Grade foam.
- You can tow your RV/TV to their spray booth. Or, you can ask them to visit your RV location with their mobile truck. Either method works great.
- To reduce costs, do as much before preparation tasks yourself. Simple DIY stuff like taping plastic sheets on the over spray areas. And, ensure inner wall wires / PEX piping is in excellent condition (before spraying). And where needed, created access door boxes - where one might need access (like behind the tail light assemblies (to change a blown bulb from the inside).
- To reduce costs, do offer clean-up tasks as well. For example, you remove overspray plastic sheets, you clean up the over spray droppings, etc. etc.
- Ensure all needed speaker wiring, 12 volt wiring, electrical wiring, etc. etc. are installed - before Spray Foaming task as well. If you think wiring might be replaced or pulled in later on, simply install some 1/2" flexible PEX or PVC plastic piping and if needed, use wide smooth corners. Thus, one can "fish" replacement wires to that specific spot (like TV/DVD/Media Player) later on.
For a good video showing contractor spray foam in a Sprinter van, surf: - click here -
For good video showing contractor spray foam in large box van, surf: - Click Here -
To view the spray foam (contractor grade with their mobile truck) under my 2006 Jayco, surf many pictures within: - Click Here -
Would I install "contractor grade" Closed Cell Spray Foam 3"-4" thick under my RV/TT again? YES. Without hesitation!!! Amazing upgrade with amazing results. Especially since we plan to keep our 2006 Jayco 29ft RV/TT for 5+ years.
Note: Do shop around because prices for same contractor grade spray foam does dramatically vary. I found one local company at nearly 1/2 the cost of others. And, he didn't charge me travel time (because my RV location was on the way to a very large job).
If there's a wide 18" inner wall cavity that has smooth surface (re: no spots for the liquid foam to stick to), simply install some galvanized wire mesh. Same galvanized wire mesh (available at many home hardware type stores) that's used on rabbit cages. Then, spray foam over this wire mesh. Vision same effect as steel re-bars in a cement floor - before pouring the liquid cement on the floor.
Hope this helps.
RE: Running wire under TT
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Drilling hole from inner floor to underbelly area is very scary. One doesn't know if one is drilling into a frame support, into a hidden underbelly tank or into an existing underbelly wire. Blind drilling is very scary. Thus, its best to remove the underbelly plastic layer, its underbelly insulation and double/triple visual check - before drilling downward. Been there, done that and blind drilling is very scary.
Let's assume you did dill downward and its vertical hole is good. To run the wire "horizontally" under the trailer, I would simply secure some plastic PVC tubing to its underbelly area (under the plastic layer). For example, use some 3/4" PEX "plastic" plumbing and use 1/2" PVC electrical U clamps. Yes. 3/4" PEX with 1/2" PVC clamps is proper sizing. After the horizontal support tubing is secured, then fish the thick cable into the tubing. Or, if your wiring is thick and needs larger tubing hole, simply use 3/4" PVC tubing (for larger size inner hole and smooth round corners) and 3/4" PVC u clamps.
For a visual of the 3/4" PVC horizontal piping secured with galvanized strapping under my "spray foam underbelly" TT (for its STAR brake wiring) and its rear corner 12V manual off/on lighting), surf: - click here -
Hope this helps...
RE: Need reading light above the sofa???
Is there anyone within your family / friends or CG buddies who are comfortable with 12V wiring? If YES, simply buy an RV ceiling light at RV dealer or ebay or ??? (re: - click here - ), fish the 2 x 12V wires (+ and - wires) from existing ceiling light, then turn it on. Ensure you get RV ceiling light with its own built-in off/on switch.
If wondering, I installed a similar RV ceiling light above our TV/DVD/Media Player cabinet by simply fishing the 12V wires and connecting to existing 12V ceiling light (which was approx 4 feet away). Very easy using a coat hanger wire as a fish wire and 14 gauge 12V wiring.
Note: If nobody can help, suggest visiting your local high schools and ask if their electrical students can do the install as a "special project". They get a little project (and get graded and supervised) and you get the job done. This might help as well...
Hope this helps.
