FWIW we have an 350 HP 8.3 in our Dynasty. We weigh 33k down the road. Without towed my 20k mpg was~8.3 with a 1500 Silverado 4x4 and 500 lb motorcycle in the bed over 10k mile we averaged 7.2. Plenty of HP with out towed. With towed it is adequate. Over Eisenhower tunnel at 11k ft we were about 30 mph. We are about 39k with towed.
The 8.3 was offered in versions to 380 HP from the factory. The transmission is the limiter on most of the 8.3 drive trains. We have the Allison 3066 which is rated to 350 HP and 1050 TQ. The ISL is an 8.3 block with a bigger stroke. It is also a fine engine. The ISL has some years with a bad wrist pin. There is a list of ESN's on this site.o
On my Revolution at around a CGW of 34,000lbs I've average 7.8 mpg in the 14,000 miles I've driven it, all in the western states. It will pull a 6% grade, like the Grapevine north of Los Angeles at +/-45mph and that's without the pedal massed to the metal. I usually back off just a little from full power when pulling a grade, I typically set the cruz for around 57mph.
Two Jayhawks you are correct. I dislike the frameless windows because they open very little and we are wide open window campers when possible. They are attractive. We bought our 2015 DP new last May . In less than 4 months we had 5 of 9 of the dual pane frameless windows lose their seal. All were replaced under warranty. One of the replacements has failed and another has lost its seal. That is 7 out of 9 in 8 months. Is it because they are frameless ? Don't know, but my last DP which we had 11 years did not have a seal failure for the first 9 years.
We were going to order this MH so we could eliminate the dual pane windows but let the good deal we got dissuade us.
The frame less windows I've seen are a poor design, The outer pane seals up against the outside of the motor home, while the inner pane is attached to the mechanism that moves the windows in and out........so when you close them, the inner frame is essentially pulling against the outer window. Very poor. I have dual pane frame windows in my 04 Revolution. Dual panes are a waste, when they get foggy, I'll replace them with single panes that more and more companies are doing......the insulation factor is about the same, and no more foggy windows. Look at that BIG single pane window you have across the front (the windshield), you actually think you're gaining much by having dual windows. Besides, motor homes are not the best insulated homes anyway.
Went from a gasser to a DP then back to a gasser (regretted going back to a gasser. I now have a DP and this is the motor home I will stick with, love it. In fact, just got home from a 3 1/2 week outting, including a week at Quartzsite.
Canadian Rainbirds, all I can say is the tech that finally got my odometer reset said, that "sometimes on motorhomes it works". The final tech that worked on it, did have a different mind set then the previous tech and service writer. Both of them said it couldn't be done. So boiled down to getting the right person that knew what he was doing. They also mentioned that if this hadn't worked, that they would look into sending the odometer over to a shop and have it set....luckily we didn't get that far. My odometer is a separate round, about 2" diameter gauge.
Follow up: Redlands Truck and RV who did the install of the ECM finally convinced Cummins to take another look at the programming of the ECM (ECM was purchased and programmed by Cummins) Took the motorhome over to Cummins this morning, one of the Service writers said this was a waste of time, but had one of the techs come out. Tech told the service writer that in some cases you can program the mileage back in. Anyway, after a few minutes loading the computer, the tech programmed the mileage in and "presto" mileage was showing correctly. So from Friday morning to Tuesday morning, finally got the right tech at Cummins who got the job done. Was a frustrating problem, for me and for Redlands Truck and RV, trying to get someone at Cummins who could fix the problem. Redlands Truck and RV were great in helping solve the problem. Thanks to everyone....especially Rolando at Redlands.
I've had both gas motorhomes and diesel pushers. I'd go Diesel for sure. For your price you can get a very nice low mileage diesel. A couple years ago, I sold an 07 near the top of the line gas unit, and took that money plus a couple thousand dollars more and bought my current motorhome, an 04 Revolution 38' 350hp cummins loaded and in excellent condition with less then 30,000 miles. Great ride and nice low noise level when driving. Look around and you'll find some nice DP for under $100K
For Sale : 04 Fleetwood Revolution -- VERY LOW MILES --:B:B:B:B....Dennis
Exactly...........except, I don't want to sell it. I told a saleman the other day at Quartzsite that I have the lowest mileage 04 Rev in the world.
I have an 04 Fleetwood Revolution with a Cummins 8.3 ISC 350hp engine. I took it to an RV shop because I was getting a check engine light. They determined that the ECM was bad. The local Cummins shop had one and they did the reprogramming of the new unit. The trouble is, the odometer in the motorhome went to zero. It does record the mileage when I drive, but instead of showing around 40,000 miles, it's showing a few miles LOL. Took it back to the RV shop that did the work, and they have contacted Cummins. Cummins says the ECM has nothing to do with the odometer mileage in the motorhome. So, the local RV shop is trying to track down more info. Anyone have a similar problem, or any ideas?? Thanks
You may want to consider going to a single pane window. Dual panes will always leak with time, even the honest companies that reseal dual windows will tell you that. Dual pane in RV's is not very practical. I can't recall the name of the company, but I believe they're in Colburg OR in the old Monaco facotry. They can reseal dual panes, or replace them with thicker single pane. The cost is about the same, and you never have to worry about sinle panes getting foggy. As far as insulating value, there's not a lot of difference either. Let's face it, you have one huge non dual pane window going across the front of your motorhome, so all these little windows that are dual pane aren't really accomplishing a lot.
You should be able to test drive a unit without signing a contract. I've test driven several different units, at several different dealers over the years, and have never signed any contract. It's just like test driving a car. If you see something you're interested in, ask for a test drive.
Don't just test drive one, and think that's the coach. Test drive several different makes and models, preferably on different manufactured chassis. If you've never driven a class A, don't be concerned, sales people deal with first timers frequently. We've all been there.
As for what to watch and listen for:
1. Drive on a highway at highway speeds, drive on rough roads, and if possible, find a long grade several miles) to drive up and down. You'll want to see how it climbs a grade as well as descends if it has some kind of engine braking sytem. Don't just take it around the block, your spending BIG $$ for this item, make sure you like how it handles. Trust me, they're no all the same, some ride rough, while others ride nicely. Some take constant correction's on the wheel, while other tract with minimal corrections.
2. Listen for noise, wind, rattles, etc. They all have noise and rattles to some degree.
3. Pay attention to how it rides, again, some ride rough, some ride like a car.
4. If you find something you like, have a 3rd party (reputable RV garage) do a pre buy inspection.
The more you drive different motor homes, over different road conditions, the more knowledgeable you'll become, and you'll eventually will find something that you like. DON'T get in a big hurry, again, drive lots of different motor homes. Visit lots of different dealers.
Talked to 2 different recommended company's today. Prices for 400 watt, which both recommended varied from $1500 to $4000. For the 15 days or so a year I dry camp, I don't think it's worth the cost. Thanks for the info everyone.
Looking for recommendation to have solar panels installed at Quartzsite during the RV event. I know there's several vendors in the big tent and some in town. Anyone have experience with any of them. Thanks
I have an 09 Ford Escape Hybrid for a tow vehicle.
I have to turn the ignition switch to unlock the steering wheel for towing. My question is, instead of using the factory key that has a chip in it for anti theft. Can I have a key made for just unlocking the wheel? If so, will it hurt anything on the car not to have a key in the ignition that doesn't have the chip? I only want to use the key when towing. Thanks
Thinking of installing a ceiling fan in the bedroom. Looking for some help.
Is 12V or 110 fans better? I'm thinking 12v so will be able to run it without invertor or generator or shore power. Any pros and cons on 12v fans vs 110 fans?
Do they make one with a remote control?
How are they attached to the ceiling? I have an 04 Fleetwood Revolution and the ceiling is a vinyl or ultra leather. I have no idea how you get above this covering to the sold ceiling. Any idea?
For those with ceiling fans in the bedroom, are they worth it? Do they help? I'm primarily looking to help move the air around on those calm warm/hot nights when dry camping. If I'm plugged into shore power, I'll run the AC's if needed.
Thanks for your help.
Like Don said, the R4R Roadmaster rides very rough. I know, I had one. I also installed the ride enhancement kit, it made very little difference in my opinion............still rode rough. Stick with an R8R chassis, Sparten or Freightliner.