My base plate broke a few years back, lucky the safety cables held the car. Did a little research and found out others with similar cars had the same failure happen. Called Blue Ox and they replaced it with a better design that included a gusset to prevent side to side motion which eliminated the stress points.
I'm only guessing, but can you take the arm off, is there a nut on the bottom so you can take the arm off. then perhaps that will allow you to take the black housing off to expose mounting nuts underneath.
Or does that black housing pop off, maybe with a screw driver, carefully prying it?
I've driven my motor home over 88 several times towing my car, I would be very careful doing it during the winter. Snow mounds along the road makes an already narrow road even more narrow. Can you do it during the winter yes, but like others have said, keep an eye on the weather and road conditions. 395 heading south can be the same way. Personally, I'd plan on taking the southern route, better and safer road conditions during the winter. Might take a couple hours longer, but what the heck. Enjoy your trip.
I have a piece of trim coming loose on the side of my motorhome. It appears to be held on by adhesive. It's an 04 Fleetwood Revolution. Any idea what kind of adhesive to use to glue it back. It's a trim strip that is about 2 inches high, about 1/2 inch thick and runs most of the length of the motor home. It appears to be the same material as the side of the motorhome. An area about 3 inches is lifting. Thanks
I was giving some serious thought to carrying a spare tire awhile back. I called a truck tire store and the manager told me, he wouldn't spend the money on a used tire, that I may never need. His reasoning was, I may never need it, and it will deteriorate in 7 years or so. Plus my tire size is very common and he said I shouldn't have a problem with any road side service having one. After talking to him, I decided against it. I thank him for his honesty.
Make sure you test drive it over various road conditions. If it's on the R4R chassis, they're known for a very rough ride. Don't think that just because it has air suspension it will ride nicely. They typically ride very harsh. As mentioned above, make sure you check that the trailing arms have been upgraded also. The replacement arms should look like this. http://sourcerv.com/trailing_arm
If it has the R4R chassis, it will ride very rough. I would test drive it over a variety of road surfaces. Ride is very harsh, to put it mildly. Yes, make sure the trailing arms have been replaced, and not replaced with Roadmaster arms, but with the Source Engineering Trailing Arms. They also offer a ride enhancement kit for the R4R Chassis. My experience was it still rode very rough.
Best thing to do, is replace the dual panes with a thicker single pane. There's a company that does that now. The price is about the same as having the dual panes redone, and the insulation factor is nearly the same. The best part, they won't ever fog. Dual panes in an RV will eventually leak. The biggest window we have is single pane..........the windshield.
For what it's worth.
I seldom if ever down shift my DP when going down a hill. I just turn the exhaust brake on and usually will hold the desire speed.
If needed you can select the "down" arrow and down shift. I believe the gear you have selected is displayed.
As others have mentioned, once at the bottom of the hill if you have down shifted just push the "D" button and you're transmission will be back to automatic.
Sometimes going up a hill, if the transmission keeps going back and forth between gears, usually 4th and 5th, I'll use the keypad and select a gear, usually 4th, but it depends. When at the top, just select "D" and you'll be set again, in automatic.
The exhaust brake is your best friend when descending. Just click it on when you start down a grade and you'll feel it kick in, might take a few seconds. Some people leave the exhaust brake on all the time. Personally, I turn it on when I need it. If you leave it on, every time you take your foot off the accelerator it will engage and start slowing you down.
I'll turn it on at the top of a grade, usually at the speed I want to maintain, and it seems to keep you in the vicinity, speed wise. If I'm in the flats, I'll turn it on as I'm approaching a stop sign or signal light to slow down. As mentioned in another posting, if planned right, you'll probably only need to use your brakes below about 15 mph or so to complete the stop.
With an exhaust brake, regular brakes use is minimized. Turn it on when driving in various conditions, and you'll feel how it works, and you'll end up loving it. I don't think you'll ever wear brakes out on a motor home if used properly.
One more item, if descending a grade, and you do need to use your regular brakes, press on them some what firmly for about 5 seconds and then ease off, this will typically slow you down 5-10 mph and will aid in avoiding over heating the brake. Don't use the brakes for long period of times, what is commonly called riding the brakes. Good Luck, and don't be overly concerned about the grades, your diesel pusher will do fine. Might slow down going up a hill, but you'll get there, and the exhaust brake will minimize the need for braking going down the other side. Enjoy your trip.
I use to have a 30 amp motor home. Under "just the right conditions" you could run both AC's, but that was rare, you certainly couldn't count on it. I did some research and found a box to install that allowed both AC's to run. I can't remember the name, but do some searching and I'm sure you'll find it. If I remember right the generator is wired like a 50 amp service so there's separate legs to each AC, and you split off one of those lines into this box and then plug into two separate outlets. I believe that's how it was, like I said can't remember, but it did work, and was somewhat easy to install.