On mine if I wished to replace it I will give you the entire process. Note mine is one of the harder models to replace.
First turn off water and open low point drain (cold line only) this is simply to prevent having to clean up the water.
Crack the plastic "Shroud' around the base of the toilet
Pull the cap off the top and pull the water jet line out of the bowel.. Let hang
Loosen belly band on toilet remove the clamps it holds remove bowel and remove it from RV.
Remove 4 bolts from base, disconnect water line from flush valve and remove base and set outside.
Set new base/pedistal in place and bolt in, re-conenct fresh water line, you may close the low point drain at this time but don't restore water yet.
Depending on the toilet you may need to re-attach the top half (Bowel) and the base shroud (optional, I tossed mine a long time ago) and once all assembled, restore water and check for leaks and operation.
I have this planned for next year.. Though the job will be a bit more invovled since I need to do some carpentry at the same time.
One thing about tinted windows... or half-slivered windows.
During the day, you can see out just fine and people have problems seeing in.
At night.. reverse that.. Thouse outside get a free show, unbeknownst to you since you can not see 'em.
I use a different propane fire but options are nice.
now in a CG, if I'm going to build a fire, in a fire ring, I use wood. (Alas, i do not do that so much since wife died)
But if I'm in a place where that might be a problem I have two choicoes. One is a "Pit-2-go" I got back in 2006 or 2007, this is a heavy duty steel box (Square shape) with a fire tray and grids for cooking also a spark arrestor screen (could be a bit bigger) you can set it up on a grassy space and it will not kill the grass (Tested it I did).
Option 2 is a propane fire.. Not the little red but an equivalent product.
I've used the Pit when I wanted a genuine wood fire for assorted things and the propane one when I need quick and again, no damage to the grass.
I recall an accident I was involved in once.. Taxi entering the freeway, I was in the far left (of like five) lanes, a Volkswagen Rabbit in the lane next to me.. Weather bad, Taxi lost it and ... and.... Rabbit sandwich.
I got the tow truck that towed in the rabbit to pull my fender off the wheel and continued on to work.. Had the young lady (Freddye) make me a copy of the accident report (Advantage of being a police dispatcher, Instant copies) and next morning drove past a body shop, picked up an estimate and off to the insurance agent about 100 miles west.
Turns out the adjuster was in.
He says "Get an estimate" I open my case and hand him the estimate
"Well when we get a copy of the accident report"... I hand him that too.
Here's your check.
I do not need this, Never walk barefoot on the small amount of tile I have and the carpeted floor is not cold.... BUT.. I bookmarked it because times do change and I know folks who can use it.
Also the Plug-buddy they showed on the page.. now that can be useful.. I often talk about products not much different.
I have seen this several times... (not always my rides however)
Best case: You need a new head gasket, If you do please have the head inspected for warping as if it's warped it will blow the new one fairly quickly.
Worst case: NEW ENGINE.
In between,, if the engine is sleeved, they can replace just one or 2 or however many you need replaced.
Let's hope for the best
Many use the jug of sand (or water) method but a hanging anything is not really a good choice..
Why is that? Well,, The hanging item can start swinging in the breeze and actually cause the tripod to tip over.
better yet a heavier weight (Say a 5 gallon bucket of water, or a jerry can) sitting on the ground with a shipping strap to the tripod to hold it.
or, if you are on the proper ground a "Claw" This is a 3 arm with 3 spikes thing that Harbor Freight used to have.. (I will check shortly). designed to hold airplanes to the ground when it gets windy.
Just did a quick search of their website, No joy. Found the company that makes it however
Have visited Grand Rapids and it's environs many times, Used to date a young lady from Wayland (Just south) Have relatives in Muskegon (just north) and Daugter went to Blue Lake Fine Arts Camp (Bit farther north) and was accepted into one of the international bands so we made many trips.. Many trips.
There are Marine deep cycle batteries and there are marine deep cycle/starting batteries. Two different applications.
Have never seen a true Deep Cycle battery with the word MARINE printed on it... Though I can see where there would be an advantage to DEEP CYCLE for many functions on the water.
I have seen true DEEP CYCLE 12 volt batteries in assorted sizes from around Group 27 up to you can't pick it up without a forklift.. But then it also POWERED said forklift.
All the Marine/Deep cycle (usually labeled exactly as I typed it with the slash) are starting batteries which can be SLIGHTLY discharged beyond what you would do with a common car battery.
The other claim I often see that I dispute is the claim of longer life for AGM's.
When I bought this MH, It came with a pair of GC-2 Flooded wet cells, I will be replacing them soon.
The following January I added a pair of AGM's. Replaced them 2 years ago.
I also slepped in some Maintenance Free Marine/Deep cycle types I had lying about, these are OLDER than the GC-2. Those I replaced over teh course of this last summer (2013) The last one last month
So the Maintenance free roughly lasted as long as the GC-2, but both of them long outlasted the far more expensive AGMs.
I will make two comments here.
First a few questions:
HOW are you measuring the charge on the batteries? And where are you measuring.
Next, What kind of batteries (Flooded wet cell (GC-2) Maintenance free, AGM, other).
The charge wizard is programmed to charge FLOODED WET CELLS, the "Full" Voltages for other types are very slightly different, and depending on the type, it might not do the job as programmed.. NO, I do not know how to modify the program (Well, actually I know how.. but there are some details missing) but it can be done.
Second.. There are several ways to measure the battey state of charge, ONE of them is very accurate (Hydrometer) the rest,,, Not so much. And even with Hydroometers. There are good ones and ... Not so good ones, and PURE JUNK ones.. I've seen/used all 3.
I have stayed out of this because I drive a Gasser, but... I used to work for a company that drove Diesels.. Several of 'em.
The answer varies depending on Diesel 1 or 2 and how high the quality is.. So keep a can of anti-gel stuff in the basement,, If you need it, use it.
Pros and cons of Sealed Valve Regulated Lead Acid over Flooded wet cell.
Pro: Little maintenance (They say Maintenance free but they still need some terminal cleaning every few years).
Cons: First, most MF batteries sold for RV use are Maine/Deep cycle, Marine/Deep cycle are NOT deep cycle, they are starting batteries, though they can safely go slightly deeper into discharge than a automotive starting battery. but 50 percent is a seriously deep discharge for them, it is the recommended minimum charge on the flooded wet cell GC-2 Deep cycle.
Cons: Higher cost
Cons: Lower overall life in many cases.
So for the best "Bang for your buck" GC-2's from Sam's Club may be the best buy.
There are in fact two problems using those splitters...
One is total current,, Now that likely will NOT be a problem but the dash oulet is liekly good for 10 amps max,, Perhaps a bit more.. The splitter can "Split" around 5-7 safely, then the plug starts to melt on many of 'em.
The second is the outlets.. They do not hold plugs well and can be a real pain in the operating system.
Alas, no simple way around that.
I do use some power distribution strips (need to workon one in fact) around here but they use a different connector that works much better.
Inside front and outside....
If you mean the light over the dash and headlights, marker lights and such (Assumesmotor home) Chassis battery isdead.
If you mean lights inside and outside the house part of a motor home, or on a trailer (Porch light as opposed to marker, Fuse or dead house system.
Benefits of LED lighting..
1: Lower current consumption, Florescent are better than Incandescent but LED's are better still.
2: Less likelyhood of breakage, and far easier to clean up if they break (I'm not so much worried about the tiny amount of mercury as I am the coated glass. that stuff is nasty)
3: A good LED assembly will outlast you.. Florcesent's a couple years if you are lucky.
Friend of mine (Brought me my computer when I was in Hospital).. Replaced the florcesent tubes in one of his Thin-Light brand twin tube fixtures with a surface mount LED back up light assembly from a store in MI,Oh,KY called Meijer's.. I suspect Wally World will have it and if not auto______ (almost any store with AUTO in it's name)
Till he pointed it I could not tell the difference.
And there is room for TWO of those back up lights in that housing, That would give you the option of a HIGH/LOW light level.
Fnally, YES you can dim florcesents, not easy though
You canalso DIM led's Much easier.
There is a slight issue with photos but that looks like one WELL BUILT device.
Nice heavy traces, good solder joints.
The only problem I've had with my 9180 with optional wizard is this:
It is a plug in model.. Won't work if it's not plugged in.