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RE: Propane bleed valve
and I do realize that there will be air trapped in the tank?
Thanks
There is no air in the tank now, and none can enter if the tecnician does his job correctly so what makes you think air will be trapped in the tank?
I recently (2 days ago) found out the proper name of that valve, this may not be exact but "Automatic fill level indicator" or some such. It has nothing to do with bleeding the tank and everything to do with letting the refill tecnician know the tank is full. That is it's only job.
Now to answer your question about what to do about it.
Go to a propane tank recertification facility, often this will be at a propane wholesaler (Someplace with a big tank farm, not your local dealer/gas station type operation but the place they buy from).
Talk to them.
Oh, how did I find out... Well there was a propane tecnician training class in session about 20 feet from me in a very quiet room (We were only ones there)
One question they had to answer:
If you get the proper mixture of propane vapor and air and add a spark what happens....
I could not resist and said "You land one county over"
After the instructor got done laughing... He confirmed my answer.
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wa8yxm
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05/23/13 06:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: step question
I would turn off the batteries when in long term storage to prevent parasitic loads from haulling them down. If the step switch is where it should be (Easily reached from outside the coach) I'd turn it off too.. No sense sending power where it's not needed.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: BATTERIESFOR HOUSE
Lowest cost is a pair of six volt Wet cells (GC-2) From San's club
Least worry but most expensive is AGM
In between is a maintenance free "Trolling battery" if you can find one. Wal-mart advertises but I've never laid eyes on. This should not be a Marine/Deep cycle, but a true deep cycle.
Note also that with proper maintenance, Life expectancy (Total battery life not time between recharges) is the opposite of price, Lower lasts longer in my experience. (Assumes all are of equal quality for their class)
I put AGM's in on their own loop back in 2006, Replaced them 2012, The original (2005) Wet cells are still going strong.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rip in Slide Boot how to Fix.
That looks like a fabric cover "Slide topper" type thing, if that is the case, I'd sew it and coat the seam with fabric cement. (Read that I sewed it and coated the seam with fabric cement) Let dry (Extended) for a day before closing.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:51am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: "Pocket Hose" reviewed on Consumer Reports
Ok, the one I have was a Wal-mart purchase.. That is as far as I can go at IDing it.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:43am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Sewer solution - worth it?
My complaint about the sewer solution is that it uses gallons and gallons of fresh water to do a job that can be done by a few watts of electricity
That's why I use a macerator pump when I need one.
Some folks talk about the "Woosh Factor" when dumping via the 3" hose.
You loose that too with both the sewer solution and the macerator.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:41am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: RV Parks w/older RV restrictions
Many parks have so much business they have to turn older rigs away, I always figure they do not need my business so I avoid them
In Las Vegas try Oasis or Main Street Casino (Call the hotel) there are many other parks too that are not restrictive.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:39am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Yamaha EF2000iS Generators
What I know of Yahama's comes from a sales rep. but, it's enough to convince me I want a 1200.. (Just enough to charge batteries with my PDI 9180+Wizard)
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:34am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Converter/charger trips breaker
I'll make it easy.. Though in theory it should not matter at all. Connect the batt to Batt and everything else to aux.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:32am |
Tech Issues
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RE: No water, what am I missing
Let me get this straight.. The cold water system is working but your problem is the hot.. When you opened the valve you did not hear water enter the water heater, And water came out of the lines till they cleared, then air came out?
If the above is right what you are missing is six minutes.
Leave the hot water faucet open for six to 10 minutes or till water comes out.
This is, by the way 100% normal (if it works).
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:31am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery life
Is that normal ? I do not think the hydrometer is temperature compensated.
If you are testing with a Hydrometer, and it is NOT temperature compensated then there is a "conversion" chart either in/on the barrel or in the manual that came with it..
Without temperature compensation, be it automatic or via said chart, the reading is meaningless.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:28am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Converter ?
I just re-read the original post. Magnetek 6300 You need a converter upgrade.
Now , on to page 2.
Where are you.. I'm in the Detroit/Port huron/Flint area this summer and this kind of trouble shooting is .. Within my hands on skill set.
I'm sure others can do it as well
NOTE: When I say in the area.. I do not mean I'll be spending more than a few minutes in any of those cities.. .Just in the area. (Within 50 miles of)
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:26am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Time for a new A/C ?
Swapping (I had pros do it) is fairly easy from a description point of view.
There are 3 swaps.
1: Same/same
2: Adapt-a-kit
3: Different make or model
I will cover the first two since they are basically identical, Mine was a type 2 (Adapt-a-kit).
They replaced a Carrier Air V with an Advent top unit, In this type of conversion you do NOT replace anything else save for one electrical connector (This may not always be the case either) I do not know why they did not design the adapt-a-kit so you did not have to replace that connector.
Remove inner cover (4 screw) and unplug cables to roof unit from control box
Remove 4 larger bolts that hold the roof unit on
REmove roof unit, if necessary remove and replace gasket
Position new roof unit, replace 4 bolts tightening as per instructions
Adapt-a-kit special step: Replace the one socket and harness, NOTE: the instructions said to do it, not now to replace a MOlex connector. thankfully I know that one (It's obvious if you look at it properly)
RE-connect harness to top unnit (in this case with an adapter cable)
TEST
Replace inner cover
That is all there was to it.
NOTE: This is for a ducted system,, If you have a non-ducted system go ahead and replace the inner parts as well (inner = indoors = ceiling)
NOTE that I did not mess with the duct work or the duct adapter (the part actually IN the ceiling) save for replacing that one elctrical connector.
Sounds easy doesen't it.
Now for the kicker... Check the shipping weight of that roof unit, Now, as it happens it is possible I MIGHT be able to horse that sucker up a ladder.. I'm big, I'm strong, I have climbed a ladder with that kind of weight in the past.. The far distant past.
That is why I hired it done.
The man who lifted it up to the roof needed but a couple fingers.... On the hydraulic valve of the tractor mounted front end loader.. To lift the new one up and the old one down.. TWO strong men on the roof positioned it.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:23am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Power Awning?
I have an older A&E Weather pro power awning, I understand they have made some improvements to the wind sensor system but I can not recommend the one I have.. Like the poster who said "I'd go manual in a second" I fully agree with him.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:13am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery disconnect when plugged in at home?
The same converters that do not work properly without a battery are the same ones that tend to overcharge in my research.
HOWEVER. if you are worried about it visit a high end car audio shop and pick up a "hardening Condenser" or "Hardening capacitor" (Same thing, different name is all)
Hook it up on the HOUSE side of the disconnect switch.
Magnetek used to sell these as a "Battery Simulator" (Again the same thing under a different name) they do work. You need not disconnect them when you re-connect the batteries. It is basically a one amp-second battery.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:11am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Taking advantage of the stupid!
On the other hand Car and Driver does an annual "Bang for your Buck" Contest.
They compare cars like Mustangas, corvetts, and the hyper expensive imports.. And who usually beats them. JEEP of course.
Lots and lots of "Bang" (Fun) not many (by comparison) Bucks.
So when you put FUN/Money.. Jeep is the clear winner every time.
Of course the folks who just have to have a jeep (ME for example) Do not care about a smooth ride, They don't care about.. All the things Consumer's Reports biases testers care about.
C.R. by the way has been known to say praise a Mercury Tracer for several features while, in the same review Slamming a Ford Escort on the same items.
Same car, different paint job.
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wa8yxm
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05/22/13 11:02am |
Around the Campfire
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RE: No Sanicon
Sounds like you popped a fuse to me too.
I have a FLo-Jet I do not use often.. Every time it blows the dang fuse. EVERY TIME, till I remember I need to clean and lube the stupid thing.
This time I did the clean and lube before I put it away and will check it before I plug in.
I understand both Flo-Jet and Sanicon use the same pump motor. .IF so then on the non-plumbing end should be a short shaft with a screwdriver slot in it.
Note which way the thing should turn (toward the discharge port) and try to turn that shaft using a flat blade screwdriver. If it's hard to turn, you need to clean and lube.
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wa8yxm
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05/21/13 10:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: generator wierdness
After not using for several months
There is your problem, Directions say 1/2 hour under 1/2 load every month. You did not do that and as a result the generator now has issues.
Suspects are fuel filter, carb and air filter, though that last one is down the list a bit, There are some other possible issues too but.. Those are the prime suspects.
I have seen fuel lines, and fuel pumps cause a loss of power in an engine too. But those are less likely.
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wa8yxm
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05/21/13 10:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Filling MH Propane...
AS I type this they are conducting a LP refill class here in the campground.. YES, if the campground lists LP then they should be able to refill your MH tank.
However: You pay "Campground prices" (kind of like a soda at a movie theater) as a general rule.
I like to shop around. I have on occasion saved as much as a dollar a gallon by visiting the right propane store (Usually a wholesale outlet). and sometimes it requires I go out of my way,, Like 50 yards out of my way :) (I'm not kidding)
Not this year but last (2012) on my semi-annula 800 Mile Hike back north (The other semi-annual hike is south) since I had to go to the west side of the state I came up the middle and turned left on I-94... on the way I stopped at the farm I grew up on, Now a propane tank farm. 2.69/gallon v/s 3/17 at the park I next visited. And since I know the roads in that area rather well, it was like 50 yards (all on the farm) out of my way from the road to the pump house to the turn around and 50 yards back to the road.
I had absolutely NO problem finding the farm :)
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wa8yxm
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05/21/13 10:05am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Vin and Serial number versus title
Some companies use the chassis VIN and it is quite possible the chassis is older than the body.. HOWEVER... You checked with the body builder so that should cover it.
If the dealer blows you off.. Notify the department of motor vehicles.
If the dealer blows THEM off... They return the favor, with warrants and padlocks.
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wa8yxm
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05/21/13 09:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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