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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 988 matches.

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RE: Front Seat That Swivels Upgrade W/Pic

Clicky: http://shop4seats.com/rv-furniture/rv-bases/class-c-rv-bases/96-06-ford-swivel-base-oem-seat.html
wolfe10 02/13/16 05:16am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Caravans

No simple answer. Some people want everything planned for them. Others enjoy "free style". Neither is right or wrong. And, yes, there are differences in Caravan companies (itineraries,what is included, prices, etc). And then the "roll of the dice" with many Caravan companies as to who is the Rally Master. That has a lot to do with the dynamics of the Caravan.
wolfe10 02/12/16 03:38pm RVing in Mexico and South America
RE: using furnace while driving

Just make sure all is shut down while fueling. Absolutely correct. ALL sources of ignition should be off: Absorption refrigerator OFF Furnace OFF Water heater OFF Note: Just having propane turned off at the tank is NOT sufficient. All those devises have spark ignitors that can trigger whether the propane is on or not. Spark ignitors plus gasoline fumes.....
wolfe10 02/11/16 04:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: using furnace while driving

Lawyer speak: no. Reality: Risk is extremely low and well within risk tolerance of all but ambulance chasers. For the nay sayers, what are the issues (assuming basic maintenance is done)?
wolfe10 02/11/16 03:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorhome Alignment Houston Texas Area

From viewing other posts by the OP, looks like he has a 1996 P chassis. So the likely question is who in Houston is recommended for that chassis. VERY different than a DP or even Ford!
wolfe10 02/11/16 12:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorhome Alignment Houston Texas Area

What chassis?
wolfe10 02/11/16 07:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lights get bright and then dim

Start by verifying that the battery connections are clean and tight. If wet cell battery, verify water (distilled) level.
wolfe10 02/10/16 06:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2016 Subaru Forester flat tow

In a word, YES.
wolfe10 02/09/16 07:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What 22.5 tires are good and won't break the bank?

Also is there an validity in using wheel covers to prolong tire life? Most certainly. UV light (sunlight) speeds the aging of rubber. You will prolong the life of any tire that sits in the sun by keeping it out of UV light. And, white is the best color, as it is cooler and heat also speeds up the degradation of rubber.
wolfe10 02/09/16 08:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine temp wire/switich sending location?

The dash coolant temperature gauge sender is installed by your chassis maker. So, check with Monaco for location and part number. But, before replacing, be sure the connection at the sender is clean and tight.
wolfe10 02/07/16 07:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Newbie moving off trawler to motorhome.

Many, many of us have "graduated" from boating to motorhoming. If our case from sailing (mostly 6 roundtrips Texas to the Bahamas plus some local Texas sailing). While in the Kemah area, drive up to PPL on the SW side of Houston. You may find what you want, but it WILL give you an opportunity to look closely at dozens of coaches with no salesman hassling you. Can be a big help in starting to whittle down the "must haves", "desireables" and "no way's". Here is a link to just the diesel coaches: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/diesel/diesel-motorhomes.php What trawler did you have? BTW, we still keep a sailboat in Watergate.
wolfe10 02/07/16 10:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anti-Sway bar for Freightliner XC-chassis

Actually, the first thing to check is the SWAY BAR END LINK BUSHINGS. If you can see any clearance between bushings and bar/chassis rail, your sway bar is just along for the ride and not doing anything for you. Polyurethane bushings are available and a big improvement over the rubber ones.
wolfe10 02/07/16 06:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Heating problem

If you are talking about the air flow being plugged, then they will absolutely have to pull and clean the CAC as well-- that is where the vast majority of the dirt will be (front of CAC).
wolfe10 02/05/16 04:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel

Suggest you change both fuel filters-- sucking fuel off the bottom of the tank will tend to clog filters. And, your manual primer pump made priming/starting a LOT easier. BTW, this is also hard on the whole fuel system, as fuel is used to cool and lube injection and head components.
wolfe10 02/05/16 06:28am Tech Issues
RE: Loss of partial power

Most everything save the microwave and the opitonal RESIDENTIAL Fridge use 12 volt DC, this includes the water heater, and Air Conditioners.Fridge, water heater and Air conditioners use 12V DC? No. Actually, yes and no! Example: An absorption refrigerator absolutely does use 12 VDC for the control board. Not as a heat source (at least in recent decades), but without 12 VDC, it will not work on propane or 120 VAC.
wolfe10 02/02/16 07:30am Tech Issues
RE: Low gear appears to be gone..

There are view points on both sides of the "flush" discussion. I know in writing, Allison recommends AGAINST flushing. On cars/light trucks, I often dropped the pan, changed filter if present and filled. Then took loose the return line from cooler and idled engine until clean fluid came out. Lots of ways to do it with good reasoning behind each.
wolfe10 02/01/16 07:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: LOST POWER

There may be some confusion setting in here. 1. Are ONLY those circuits fed through the inverter/charger not working, or are other things like roof A/C not working. If only inverter/charger fed circuits not working, indeed look at the on-inverter breakers. But, if A/C's not working as well (i.e. whole 120 VAC system down) then the ATS OUT and breaker box IN connections are a good place to start. An, the "salesman switch" is 12 VDC. Unrelated to the 120 VAC system, unless the thermostats for the roof A/C are 12 VDC, etc.
wolfe10 01/31/16 12:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: LOST POWER

If you are safe working around 240 VAC, open the ATS and unplugged, generator off and inverter off, check the connections, particularly those going OUT from ATS to main breaker box. Since both generator and shore power are now inoperative, it suggests a problem on the OUT side of the ATS, main breaker box, etc. This assumes when you say nothing works, that no 120 VAC items work, not just outlets.
wolfe10 01/31/16 06:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesal filling

Most likely suspect is a poorly routed VENT hose. If there is a drip loop in it/sag in it fuel can cause the fill to back up. So, crawl under and verify that the small diameter vent hose goes only up hill from tank to vent port on the filler neck. If that hose was cut 4" too long (so it has a sag), it will add 10 minutes to your fill time!
wolfe10 01/27/16 04:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Heating problem

Actually the "oil from slobber tube" being pulled into the cooling package was universal to all diesels with open crankcase ventilation. But, let's address the OP's issue. VERY easy to check for blockage (BTW, the air flow blockage would not be in front of the radiator, but in front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) which is the first thing in the air flow. Access the top of the engine (bedroom or closet). You will need to be able to look inside the fan shroud/between fan blades. With a strong flashlight, look in the center. It will be clean (the blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter). Now, look at the perimeter- particularly the lower perimeter and make sure the fins are equally clean. If not, Simple Green EXTREME (formulated to degrease aluminum airplanes so will not harm the aluminum CAC)and a garden hose/garden nozzle should clean it up unless it is really plugged. THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE ANNUALLY ON A REAR RADIATOR COACH!!!!! If that is not the problem, then absolutely the first "repair" is to replace the thermostat(s). They are a wearing item. Some Cat 3126/C7's have two thermostats-- in the same housing. Be sure to get the correct gasket. Taking your engine serial number to any Caterpillar dealer should get you the proper parts. Other thing to check is the water pump belt. It is NOT on an automatic tensioner, but is a small V belt that drives only the water pump. Check it from under the coach-- driver's side of engine. Front of engine (toward back of coach). It has a manually adjusted idler pulley. Let us know what you find.
wolfe10 01/26/16 09:36am Class A Motorhomes
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