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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 360 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: GPS for steep grades

Actually, once you have learned how to drive your coach on grades (speed, use of transmission, comfortable RPM, etc), this becomes MUCH less of an issue. Been on grades from zero (like across Louisiana on I 10) to 22% for 3 miles to a friends home in the mountains above Durango, CO. Never overheated, always got there, and the majority of that was in a 1993 Foretravel 36' with 250HP Caterpillar and Allison 6 speed.
wolfe10 02/26/18 01:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: rvtires

On plywood is a good idea.
wolfe10 02/25/18 09:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Older DP's with drum brakes

Drum brakes have been used very successfully on heavy vehicles for many, many decades. They are actually less problematic than disk brakes in an RV application, as RV's tend to sit for long periods of time and if sliding caliper design tend to seize so that the "lazy pad" does not retract from the disk, resulting in expensive failures.
wolfe10 02/25/18 06:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Going Over The Grape Vine

And, if it would make you more comfortable, disconnect and drive the toad up the grade separately.
wolfe10 02/23/18 10:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Jersey Shore to San Antonio to Tucson via Rt10.

Brett, the route you suggest around El Paso, does it have more mountains then staying on I 10 or less? Roland Slightly LESS. And almost no traffic. Google Earth it! No way to avoid all the grades, as you have to go "uphill" into N Mexico. But, the grade on 404 is mostly "high gear". Do NOT take 375/transmountain-- 8-9% up and down.
wolfe10 02/20/18 02:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Antifreeze

Yup, you need it, but what you are driving determines WHAT KIND of COOLANT you need.
wolfe10 02/20/18 02:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Antifreeze

OP, you need to tell us WHAT you are driving. Gas? Diesel????????
wolfe10 02/20/18 11:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air system external charging

Yes, most tow trucks have AIR DRYERS. But your tanks will have drains. So, to do a "belts and suspenders" when you are back ready to go, open the tank drains to check for contaminates.
wolfe10 02/20/18 11:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Jersey Shore to San Antonio to Tucson via Rt10.

An excellent option around El Paso from I 10 on the east side of El Paso is north on 375, north on U.S.54, northwest on 3255 which turns into NM 213, then west on 404 back to I10. MUCH less hassle.
wolfe10 02/19/18 08:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Why 30a (120v) at Home?

We could be getting into semantics here. I know Bill is very familiar with 120/240 VAC wiring. He is correct that very, very few RV's use both hots to power a single appliance. Said another way, the appliances are wired to use 120 VAC= one hot, one neutral and ground. BUT, a proper 50 amp RV outlet does have TWO hots. Between L1 and L2 (the two outer straights) DOES READ 240 VAC.
wolfe10 02/08/18 10:18am Tech Issues
RE: Gas water heater noisemakers

Start by using compressed air to blow out the burner tube. If that doesn't cure it, next step is to verify that the other propane appliances (furnace) is working as it should. If not, your propane regulator may be bad-- under $25. And, lastly, many water heaters have a slide to allow for adjustment of amount of air.
wolfe10 02/08/18 07:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Spongy breaks

Start by changing the brake fluid. Probably need to clean and lube the brake caliper slides.
wolfe10 02/07/18 03:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: When on inverter am I using the batteries?

See my post above. Can you switch under load, YES. Does it pit/burn the contacts, YES. Amount of damage depends on size of contacts, material they are made of and amount of current and(IMPORTANT)how frequently you do it. There is always a point where the contacts are not yet in full physical contact, but the air gap has diminished to a point that electricity arcs across the gap.
wolfe10 02/07/18 03:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: When on inverter am I using the batteries?

What Mr Wizard states is TRUE. But not for the reason he stated. You ALWAYS disconnect Shore Power before starting the Genset AND turn off the Interior MAIN Breaker/s. You NEVER Transfer with a LOAD. This prevents arc'ing of the Transfer relay points, which causes wear and premature failure. Read posts from people that state they have multiple failures of Transfer boxes. Caused by transferring under load. You also Turne Loads OFF when turning the Genset OFF. Some Transfer boxes close a relay when connecting either Shore or Genset. Some, the Shore relay stays closed. Unless you know for sure which style you have always have NO LOAD when engaging various Power supplies. Doug I'm sorry to have to disagree with you. Proper transfer switches are designed to switch "under load". I have experience with RV type transfer switches but also automatic emergency generator systems. These systems routinely transfer "under load" by definition. The same is true for UPS systems which I have specified in my job. While it is true that the relays can wear out over time due to arcing that should be minimal as these devices are specifically designed to be operated in this manner. In fact, properly designed and implemented transfer switches should be completely transparent to any connected system i.e. the dropout should be less than a fraction of a phase cycle. The capacitors in most equipment should bridge that short of a mid cycle dropout. More advanced transfer equipment common in UPSes can actually use phase drift to wait until both sources are in phase prior to switching over. RV switch gear usually isn't that advanced unfortunately. Bottom line is with a properly wired and designed system (RVIA and NEC codes) in no case should anything bad happen if you have all three sources of power available at the same time. It CAN happen with a mis-wired coach or with defective equipment however the underlying problem MUST be corrected rather than masking it by turning off all sources of power prior to switching over. All this said if a person wants to cut all power and then start up the new source go ahead but it will only be a marginal at best savings on the transfer switch(s). Here we are getting into "best practices" vs "what I got away with". Both statements are correct. YOU have to decide which philosophy you want to follow.
wolfe10 02/07/18 11:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins 330 ISC

Since this is a linered engine, coolant is important. Be sure you know what technology coolant you have and maintain/change it properly!
wolfe10 02/07/18 09:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: battery charging

Depending on your inverter/charger's size (how many amps of charging available), you may have to go in and reduce the amps of 120 VAC it can use. Often called "power share/power save". This can be done in a few seconds from your inverter/charger remote. Obviously, verify that all other 120 VAC loads are OFF. If residential refrigerator tries to start and inverter/charger is in high-amp bulk mode, you may be exceeding the Honda's capability. If this happens, might turn off the refrigerator breaker until charge amp rate tappers off a little.
wolfe10 02/07/18 07:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: When on inverter am I using the batteries?

It is still advisable to switch off the inverter, power appliances directly from shore power. Inverters are not 100% energy efficient, use more power than they produce, as well as just plain wear and tear on it and the converter. Inverters are expensive, in my experience, finicky. With the Xantrex inverter/charger, makes no difference is inverter is on or off. When there is an alternate VAC source, it does NOT invert. It does two things (again with switch either on or off): passes through the 120 VAC and activates the battery charger portion of the inverter/charger. That switch only makes a difference when there is no external source of VAC.
wolfe10 02/05/18 06:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: When on inverter am I using the batteries?

Your inverter has an internal transfer switch. When it "sees" power from shore or generator, it "PASSES THROUGH" THAT source to everything downstream of it.
wolfe10 02/05/18 01:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solenoid as Battery Disconnect?

Yes, absolutely continuous duty and rated for well more than max amps you will run.
wolfe10 02/04/18 08:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Solenoid as relay question- install inverter

So, in the Born Free, how difficult would it be to run new 120 VAC wires from the inverter to the one or two outlets you want to be able to power off the inverter. Again, could install an additional "inverter-fed" outlet OR just wire it to, say, the upper half of the outlet.
wolfe10 02/04/18 02:19pm Tech Issues
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