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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 412 matches.

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RE: Tropi-cal Coach Battery Charging Problems

And, as far as generator (or shore power for that matter) charging the batteries, I assume all other 120 VAC stuff worked (like roof A/C's). If so, check that the breaker for your inverter/charger has not tripped (on main 120 VAC breaker panel).
wolfe10 05/20/18 01:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: wiring question

Voltmeter. X2
wolfe10 05/20/18 01:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tropi-cal Coach Battery Charging Problems

Very unusual that both the inverter/charger and the engine-driven alternator would both quit charging at the same time. Need to grab your voltmeter and see what is going on. For the engine part, start by taking readings at the BATTERY ISOLATOR with engine off and then running and with engine around 1000 RPM (use cruise to bump up idle speed). Write down readings at each of the lugs.
wolfe10 05/20/18 01:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Strange acrid smell coming from what...air conditioner?

A commercial evaporator cleaner will "play nicer" with the coils than chlorine. Any box store should have it.
wolfe10 05/20/18 07:19am Tech Issues
RE: Ceiling lift for handicapped individual

Actually, I was thinking the same thing-- support on the roof, through drill to track on ceiling. That is what I would do unless working with a heavily built coach. Walk on the roof. No give, there is STRUCTURE. Flex-- through bolt!
wolfe10 05/19/18 04:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Strange acrid smell coming from what...air conditioner?

The above posts pretty well have identified the potential sources. Let us now what you find. From a safety standpoint, I would start with batteries-- verify that the case(s) are not swollen, water level is correct, no cell dry.
wolfe10 05/19/18 02:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Workhorse or P-30 Chassis

From the Workhorse Manual: First three characters of a Chevrolet Motor Home Chassis VIN are 1GB. The first three characters of a Workhorse Custom Chassis VIN are 5B4. I suspect your 1996 was built by Chevrolet, but the VIN is definitive.
wolfe10 05/19/18 06:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: About As Technical As It Gets...

FYI, Dead Sea is 1412' BELOW sea level: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_Sea
wolfe10 05/18/18 03:55pm Tech Issues
RE: We're all tired of reading about 'wandering' problems....

A trac bar fixed mine Two are even better (Front and rear) 2017 Ford F53 already has a front track bar/panhard rod. Adding a rear one is a good idea.
wolfe10 05/18/18 09:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 01 Holiday Endeavor Diesel ignition problem

OK, two most likely suspects are: IGNITION SOLENOID Ignition Switch Start by locating the ignition solenoid and testing it (need a voltmeter-- even a cheap one).
wolfe10 05/17/18 04:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Invisibrake

Pretty much universal. I had mine removed from a previous vehicle and installed in another (different brand). No problem. But, if a question, give Roadmaster a call.
wolfe10 05/17/18 04:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: House batteries are charged but wont work.

Before concluding that the solenoid is bad, make sure it was receiving 12+ VDC to the signal terminal. Said another way, if voltage reaching the signal terminal is too low, it will not close the solenoid.
wolfe10 05/17/18 02:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Coolant service cost

On my '07 Cummins ISL the coolant change is every 72 months with an extender added at 36 months. A caution. Many of the OAT-based coolants call for an extender after 36 months. And, that advice is correct for an OTR truck piling up 100,000 miles a year. Is is NOT accurate for a motorhome only doing a few thousand miles a year. In fact, Caterpillar when back and changed their slide presentation on RV maintenance to omit the extender recommendation for Caterpillar ELC. So their ELC (and likely all other new-generation coolants of the same chemistry are "6 years, zero maintenance".
wolfe10 05/17/18 02:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Self-adjusting Drum Brakes

Disk brakes, by their very design ARE self-adjusting. Some disk brakes are better than others-- particularly in RV applications where they tend to sit for long periods of time (fixed caliper better than floating caliper).
wolfe10 05/16/18 03:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Storage Question

I am assuming this is a trailer and the jacks are mechanical. If so, yes, take most of the weight off the tires.
wolfe10 05/15/18 03:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Out of state purchase advice

1. Decide that the unit is worth driving to see (pictures, conversations with seller, etc). 2. Decide that you want to buy it (check it over and test drive and likely have it inspected by someone familiar with your choice). 3. Agree on price, closing date and get a copy of the title showing clear title in their name. If lien, you will be dealing with their banker-- not a problem, but changes how things will work. 4. Safest way to protect both buyer and seller is to wire transfer money to the seller. My suggestion is on closing date to physically go to where the unit is (make sure all is OK). Then, contact your banker (I always pre-arrange with my banker so they expect my call) to wire transfer money to seller (your banker to his banker if you are more comfortable that way). You take possession and title once seller confirms $$ in his account (usually less than one hour). 5. Paperwork needed depends on where it is registered and where you will register it. Have done exactly this process both buying and selling expensive motorhomes and boats.
wolfe10 05/15/18 12:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coolant service cost

Agree, change it yourself. Time consuming to do correctly, but very "low tech". From an article I wrote many years ago for the FMCA Magazine: Cooling System 101 I just changed out my coolant and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer’s instructions (usually every 3 years for regular low silicate for diesel with added SCA coolant). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use. When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant is installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to an Extended Life Coolant and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech. The new-generation OAT-based coolants such as Caterpillar ELC and Fleetguard ES Complet-OAT have a longer life-- generally in the 6 year range with no testing or adding of extenders unless over 300,000 miles have been driven. A big problem with these excellent coolants-- lots of techs are not chemists-- they see a coolant filter and automatically run grab a filter-- often with units of SCA. This is a good idea for the regular low silicate coolants, but are just a contaminant to OAT-based coolants. OK, so you are going to change coolant. First step is to determine your total cooling system capacity. Your chassis maker or coach maker, not your engine manufacturer is the proper source. Then buy enough coolant (concentrate, not pre-dilute) to make up 50% of that volume. If going back with a coolant that requires additional SCA, purchase that as well. Also purchase 1.5 times system capacity of distilled water for a final flush plus final fill (50%). Also a good idea to change the engine thermostat and thermostat gasket as these are a wearing component and it involves very little more work while you are there. I know Caterpillar recommends thermostat (they call them regulators) every 3 years. Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain ****. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. Two Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so they don’t get dirty work well. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free. Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes after regular temperature is reached. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the effluent color is clear. At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to “Last rinse”. For older systems, contaminated systems or when switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner. Follow the directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8” to ¾” lines) going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until it comes out clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water. If your hoses are over 5-6 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s). Last rinse is with distilled water. At $.85/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water. Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. So for a cooling system with 20 gallons capacity, add 10 gallons of Coolant CONCENTRATE (plus 1/2 overflow container capacity). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture—it doesn’t matter if you only have to add 1 gallon or 10 of distilled water, you KNOW you have the proper 50/50 mixture. This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter. Check belts while you are in there.
wolfe10 05/12/18 10:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coolant service cost

Both time and miles "wear" coolant. Again, we don't even know what kind/chemistry coolant we are discussing. With the "regular green stuff" (low silicate for diesel with added SCA) life is half or less of the newer generation OAT-based coolants. Guess my point is that coolant is a lot cheaper than chancing engine failure.
wolfe10 05/12/18 07:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coolant service cost

Doesn't sound like Cummins shop is interested in doing the job. Not really needed as far as I know and have been told and have found reading. Would be interested in reading recommendations that do not call for coolant change after 6-7 years, unless one of the new generation coolants AND it has been tested. Coolant is cheap compared with eroding cylinder liners.
wolfe10 05/11/18 06:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Unimog becomes an Off Road Class C

There is absolutely a very wide range of that counts as graded dirt road and therefore a wide range of what is a same speed. It can range from 5 mph is a little too fast to 50 MPH is just fine. Drove the Alcan 40 years ago (before it was paved). Admittedly many sections were graded gravel, but it was early in the season and quite a few areas were really dirt. Truckers were consistently driving 60+ MPH and I did not see a single accident on the 1500 miles of "unpaved" road.
wolfe10 05/11/18 10:42am Class C Motorhomes
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