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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 1000 matches.

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RE: Is 360 hp enough for for 38-40 ft class A

I am hesitant to even comment on what could become a "HP vs Torque" discussion. BUT, here goes. HP is what moves you. 380 HP is 380 HP, be it a gasoline engine, diesel engine, gas turbine, etc. Torque (read that high torque at low RPM) is what allows you to climb a grade at an RPM that won't hurt your ears or your engine. Said another way, a current Ford V10/F53 chassis produces 362 HP. But, look up the RPM. Our new coach has 400 HP (not much more than 362) but has 1200 lb-ft torque at 1300 RPM. Bottom line, it can generate the same HP at SUBSTANTIALLY lower/sustainable RPM.
wolfe10 10/20/14 04:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can you wax the decals or avoid them

Use 303 aerospace on the decals. Do NOT wax them.
wolfe10 10/20/14 02:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Furnace blowing cold air

Ya, had a cold front blow through here today-- it is down to 78 degrees.
wolfe10 10/19/14 04:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Furnace blowing cold air

First "suspect" is low voltage at the furnace. Low voltage= slower fan speed= sail switch does not close= fan runs, but ignitor and propane valve don't open. Of course restrictions in air return or vents will cause the same low air flow and symptoms.
wolfe10 10/19/14 04:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: PacBraKE

Idea is OK, but, be sure to disconnect the wire from solenoid going forward before applying 12 VDC positive. Without a lot of research into the effects, you do not want to back- feed the relays/transmission ECM.
wolfe10 10/19/14 11:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: PacBraKE

Mike, There are several relays involved in activating the exhaust brake. I would start by checking for good voltage at them. If so, I would buy one extra relay and start swapping the new one for the existing ones.
wolfe10 10/19/14 06:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Exhaust parts

Clicky: http://www.walkerheavyduty.com/en-US/
wolfe10 10/19/14 06:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Exhaust parts

Exhaust brake? Check carefully. It is likely that an exhaust brake is bolted to the turbo, so the pipe would go from exhaust brake, not turbo.
wolfe10 10/18/14 05:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tire rotation

No! I was told that by Michelin and my local tire shop! I've been RVing since 1976 and never have rotated a RV tire! Why? As long as you don't change the direction of rotation, why would there be a problem. You could be right! I'm just following instructions from my tire shop! Actually there are VERY few RV tires that are directionally sensitive. Unless you have arrows on the sidewalls indicating direction of rotation, you are "free to do anything you want" as far as rotation. Not changing direction of rotation on a modern radial is AN OLD WIFE'S TALE". If in doubt, go to Michelin's RV tire guide and read it for yourself.
wolfe10 10/18/14 05:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tire rotation

I am not aware of any tire manufacturer who recommends rotating tires on a Class A UNLESS there is uneven tire wear. Tire wear is much less an issue then on a car. You will very likely replace tires due to age, not tread wear.
wolfe10 10/17/14 11:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: PacBraKE

Brett, didn't you say the same thing I said, except maybe a little more detailed???? Duh, or were you answering the original poster's question, not responding to my response? ED, Sorry, I was not clearer. The OP was incorrect. You were correct.
wolfe10 10/16/14 12:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: PacBraKE

NO, that will not test your exhaust brake. Drive the coach. Down arrow to 3rd or 4th gear. Accelerate to the higher RPM range for your engine. Turn on/off/on the exhaust brake. Since the transmission remains in the same gear, you have eliminated it as a cause of additional braking. You should feel a real difference in braking with the exhaust brake on. BTW, the Allison ECM is the first place your exhaust brake signal goes, causing your transmission to begin downshifting toward the pre-select gear. So, if your transmission window does not change from "6" to what ever your pre-select gear is (2nd and 4th being common choices), the brake is not working electrically.
wolfe10 10/15/14 06:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins ISC 350hp Valve Adjustment Schedule

Valve clearances do not change based on time. The change based on miles/wear of mechanical components. And, yes 150,000 miles is the official answer from Cummins with the additional statement that these engines tolerate a WIDE range of clearances with no adverse affect on performance.
wolfe10 10/15/14 10:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winter Storage Questions

Storing a diesel coach for 6 months: If you filled up (full tank is a must, as it minimizes condensation) in the summer or fall (i.e. #2 diesel), adding an anti-gel is a good idea. And for storing that long, I would also add a Biocide (available from any marine store, as boats storing diesel have the same issues).
wolfe10 10/15/14 07:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Over Priced Used Motorhomes.

Yes, you are correct-- many are very poorly maintained and prices IRRATIONALLY. In fact, we have been looking for a coach for the last 3 weeks-- very frustrating, since I DO know what I am looking at. Finally found one that was owned by "another anal" owner. And priced in NADA retail range. Keep looking-- and for rust free, you may need to look further south!
wolfe10 10/10/14 05:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: how do i tell if 50 amps is coming through plug.

50 amp RV service is really two separate 120 volt, 25 amp circuits, as I understand it. This would suggest you only need a tester capable of drawing 25 amps. 25 amps at 120 volts is 3,000 watts. So get two 1500 watt heaters (probably run you $15-$20 at Wallys -- or heck, you probably have a couple laying around already, as that is the "standard" small space heater wattage). Plug 'em in together on one branch of the circuit, then the other, and if the circuits both support the heaters going full blast for, oh, say, one minute, you got 50 amp service. Totally INCORRECT. An RV 50 amp outlet has TWO, repeat TWO, 50 amp breakers. So 50 amps on L1 and 50 amps on L2. Check with voltmeter: Two outer straights are hots, center straight is neutral and center round is ground. SO: From either outer straight to center straight or center round is 120 VAC. Outer straight to outer straight is 240 VAC. Center straight to center round is 0 VAC. THEN, and an important THEN, monitor voltage while he turns on loads-- he will NOT exceed the 50 amp RV capacity with a "regular" RV (excluding some bus conversions).
wolfe10 10/07/14 04:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: AGM Battery Question

Are Deep Cycle - non marine flooded batteries really available? Sure, golf cart batteries for example.
wolfe10 10/05/14 10:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hankook tire inflation question

I recently read somewhere on another RV website that the coach mfg. recommended PSI stated on that coach label should be used at all times. I currently am back to 80 PSI. Hope that is bad advice. The coach label shows PSI based on each axle loaded to its GAWR. Hopefully, you are under that so PSI can be less. Only weighing will tell you.
wolfe10 10/04/14 09:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire air pressure

Sorry, our GUESSING at the correct PSI is not going to help you. You need to find a scales (many truck stops) and at least weight each axle. Better, weigh the individual wheel positions and use the heavier wheel position to go to your tire manufacturers inflation table to find the correct MINIMUM PSI for all tires on that axle. In many states, contact your local DOT office-- the ones who weight trucks. Ask if you can meet them at their office at beginning or end of shift to have your coach weighted. I PROMISE you they will be ecstatic that you are interested in safety and will be happy to do it.
wolfe10 10/04/14 08:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins CAC

Oil cooler may (not likely) be in the radiator. Never, never seen one in the CAC. MUCH more likely the cooler is for the transmission. And it will very likely be in the RADIATOR.
wolfe10 10/03/14 06:46pm Class A Motorhomes
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