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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 639 matches.

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RE: Splicing 30A plug to 50 amp cord

Another option if your 30 male to 50 female dog bone has a good male end: Cut off the female end of the 30 amp cord and also the male end of the 50 amp cord. Splice the two together. No parts other than butt connectors and hopefully some shrink wrap to cover the spliced area. If no shrink wrap, find an old scrap of hose with the same ID as the OD of the 50 amp cord. Use it to cover the splices. Silicone the ends of the hose to make water resistant (would not say water tight). And all correct answers on wiring: 30 amp black to BOTH 50 red and black 30 amp white to 50 amp white 30 amp green to 50 amp green
wolfe10 01/20/17 02:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator is not charging house batteries

Yes, your inverter/charger works the same to charge the batteries (normally only house batteries) from EITHER shore power or generator. It doesn't know the difference.
wolfe10 01/20/17 12:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leaving unit plugged in 24/7

Please, do not base your decision on what WE do. Absolutely, my motorhomes stay plugged in 24/7. BUT (large but) they have all had smart inverter/chargers what were properly programmed. Were I to do the same with a regular/stupid converter, I would have gone through many sets of batteries in the last 19 years.
wolfe10 01/20/17 07:50am Tech Issues
RE: Oil Change

Two choices: 1. Follow the recommendations of your engine manufacturer for your engine AND MODEL YEAR. I know both Caterpillar and Cummins recommend once a year irrespective of mileage. 2. Do oil analysis to determine if your oil is still in good condition.
wolfe10 01/19/17 08:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wheel base to length ratio

WB/OL is probably the most important determinant of handling under adverse conditions. But, certainly there are others: Weight distribution is important-- an under-loaded front axle really degrades handling. Suspension components come into play. Our front shocks are Koni 99 series (double the piston area of Koni 88 series and in a very different league than most OE shocks). Sway bars, track bars, on air suspension 4 vs 3 ride height valves-- all these are contributors to both ride and handling.
wolfe10 01/14/17 06:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: inverter/converter problems?

So I turned the powershare dow to 20 amps and they are charging fine. Is this okay or is it a sign of coming issues? Not really. 20 amps times 120 VAC= 240 watts divided by 12 volts would give just under 200 amps of battery charge! It would take a SERIOUSLY discharged large battery bank to accept more than 200 amps of charging. How many amps are you showing on your remote panel for charge rate? My guess is that you are WAY, WAY under 200, so a power share of 20 would have no effect.
wolfe10 01/14/17 03:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wheel base to length ratio

Drive it and find out for yourself. A VERY tough assignment. As with no cross wind and/or 18 wheelers flying buy, you really can't check out the conditions under which handling "flaws" will reveal themselves. Physics is physics. The longer the wheelbase for a given overall length of coach, the better the handling under adverse conditions. Absolutely something we considered in buying our coach. Coach length 38.5'. Wheelbase 260". WB/OL= 56.3
wolfe10 01/14/17 02:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins ISL Oil recommendation

Brett: I cannot believe that you have not heard of the 2 new oils! I usually look to you for info! FA4 ( was once called PC11) is the oil for newer engines. Not backwards compatible. Apparently the labeling will be different. CK4 is the replacement for CJ4 and can be used in all of the previous diesels. Dig around on the Chevron website and you will see lots of info. Moisheh Sorry, still have a couple of cases of "good old" Shell Rotella T, so have not paid any attention to oils recently. Since it was first licensed a little over one month ago, I don't feel too "left out". Probably one of the more concise explanations: http://rotella.shell.com/products/pc-11.html?gclid=CKjHub3NwNECFeNsMgod83QDPw&gclsrc=ds What you need to know about CK-4 and FA-4 The new PC 11 category is being driven by changes to fuel economy and emissions regulations that are prompting changes to engine components/sizes and often resulting in hotter operating temperatures. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and major engine manufacturers have agreed on ambitious new goals for fuel economy and emissions in future medium- and heavy-duty vehicles. To meet these goals without any compromise in engine protection, a new generation of diesel engine oils is required. First licensing is December 1, 2016. What is PC-11? PC-11 stands for Proposed Category 11. The new PC-11 Heavy Duty Engine Oils (HDEO), now called CK-4 and FA-4, due in December of 2016, will surpass current CJ-4 oil technology. Why do we need a new oil standard? Oil technology and engine technology go hand in hand. Changing regulatory limits challenge engine manufacturers to reduce emissions. As engine manufacturers begin to create a new generation of cleaner, more fuel-efficient diesel engines, they need a new generation of higher-performing diesel engine oils to protect them. And they need to know those oils will be available throughout the country to every diesel engine owner. What’s the difference between CK-4/FA-4 heavy duty engine oils and current engine oils? In order to meet goals for more fuel-efficient engines and fewer emissions, many next-generation engines will run at higher operating temperatures. This will require changes in engine oil composition, so they can withstand more heat without sacrificing engine protection. It will also mean that instead of one category of engine oils, we’ll have two – CK-4 and FA-4. CK-4 engine oils will be a direct replacement for the engine oils you’re using now. You’ll be able to buy the same viscosity grades and oil types (conventional, full synthetic, synthetic blend) you’re using now, and they’ll be “backwards compatible” to ALL current vehicles. They’ll just also conform to the new PC-11 standards. The new FA-4 engine oils will be offered in lower viscosity grades and are designed primarily for next-generation engines to help maximize fuel economy without sacrificing engine protection. These FA-4 oils may have limited backwards compatibility2 and would be labeled as such. Oil companies and OEMs are currently testing these products in a range of applications to demonstrate without sacrificing engine protection.
wolfe10 01/13/17 07:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Freedom 458 inverter not charging/no pass thru

There is a power sharing feature when AC is turned on when generator is activated. Is this a possibility ? Power sharing merely limits the amount of 120 VAC (whether from generator or shore power) that may be used by the inverter/charger for battery charging. Most common use is when plugged in to 15 amp shore power, so you can have some power for other things. It slows the rate of charge, as it limits how much 120 VAC can be used for charging.
wolfe10 01/13/17 07:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking to buy Allegro 36LA Opinions Please

IF you like to run the fridge while driving, you will be using the battery to run the fridge so may not be as cold etc. IF you dry camp at all more than overnight, you want the fridge with Elec/Propane, if never dry camp, then household fridge is ok as long as you know about the battery usage while driving down the road, if battery goes bad, food will too if not fixed immediately. A little more detail. While driving, your absorption refrigerator will either be on propane (more common), or if you have an inverter AND the refrigerator is plugged into an inverter powered outlet, your engine can power the alternator to power to inverter to power the electric heat element in the refrigerator (less common). It would be an unusual alternator/charging system that would not keep up with the power needs of a residential refrigerator while driving (from the alternator). Not suggesting that a residential refrigerator is the way to go, but amount of dry camping is more critical for the decision than what happens while driving.
wolfe10 01/13/17 07:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Guadalajara - San Jose del Taco

Ya, that pink Sultana bus was a classic and probably the largest bus we have ever seen. TWO FRONT AXLES as well as drive and tag. https://www.google.com/search?q=sultana+bus&tbm=isch&imgil=CLtfUO1xWhzhhM%253A%253BTs6pfLr4tefprM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fmyntransportblog.com%25252F2014%25252F10%25252F21%25252Fsultana-by-ramirez-trailers-de-monterey-sa-1952-present-monterey-nuevo-leon-mexico%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=CLtfUO1xWhzhhM%253A%252CTs6pfLr4tefprM%252C_&usg=__sprQ5168Ql81s0ZF5flO49CFru8%3D&biw=1366&bih=628&ved=0ahUKEwj-nqqhub_RAhVny1QKHUCECN4QyjcIJw&ei=rPN4WP6YHeeW0wLAiKLwDQ#imgrc=CLtfUO1xWhzhhM%3A
wolfe10 01/13/17 08:34am RVing in Mexico and South America
RE: Workhorse Allison Jumped from 5 to 6 Speed (on its own)

I will say that I've always noted that the transmission seems to subtly shift twice in 2nd gear but never sought to see if this was true or my imagination. The transmission torque converter is locking up in higher speeds in 2nd gear. It is always locked in higher gears. Feels like a "mini-shift" when it locks up in 2nd gear.
wolfe10 01/13/17 08:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins ISL Oil recommendation

CJ4 is the oil that was made for DPF equipped vehicles. The previous type, CI4, is probably not available anymore. Or it is not common. Everyone should be prepared for the new oils that are just coming to marketplace. One of them is backwards compatible. The other is only for the newer diesel engines. Moisheh Interested in more information on the "oil for diesels" that is NOT backwards compatible.
wolfe10 01/13/17 08:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins ISL Oil recommendation

I shot an e-mail to Tom Johnson (JG Lubricant Services) referencing this thread. This is what he did/does for a living. Here is his response: The latest oil specification for Diesel Engines, as defined by API (the American Petroleum Institute), is CK-4. The “C” means compression ignition, the “K” is the latest revision, and the “4” means 4-stroke. Here’s a link to the definition: http://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_diesel-c-categories. I suggest that forum members on this thread read the definitions and use the correct API Category oil shown in their Owner’s Manual. And, concerning use of synthetics: With regard to posts, in this thread, that refer to the use of synthetics, I suggest that you pass on a link to one of my blog pages on synthetics. The word “synthetic” means different things to different people and I cover some of that in my blog. Here’s the link: http://www.jglubricantservices.com/blog/should-i-purchase-or-use-synthetic-oils-my-buddy-says-theyre-great/
wolfe10 01/12/17 04:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: No power from shore or generator, ok on inverter, need help

Yes, your choices are to replace the inverter/CHARGER. OR Install a smart charger or converter AND tie the inverter IN 120 VAC wires (all three) to the Inverter OUT 120 VAC wires. Clearly the first is the better answer.
wolfe10 01/12/17 06:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: No power from shore or generator, ok on inverter, need help

Yup, Doug and the previous few posts are the answer. The "big appliances" such as A/C and water heater electric element are directly supplied from the main breaker box, not the inverter. So, in order from breaker box, here are the potential issues: 1. 120 VAC from main breaker box not getting to inverter/charger. On edit: if this is the issue, the charger function of the inverter/charger would not be working either. If charger function working, move on to #2. 2. Transfer switch in the inverter/charger bad. 3. GFI tripped or bad-- again you have one or more GFI's that protect most of the outlets in the coach-- certainly those near any water (galley and bathroom).
wolfe10 01/11/17 08:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: No power from shore or generator, ok on inverter, need help

Yup ATS fine. So power is getting to the 120 VAC main breaker box. But we need to look closely at what is not getting power from that breaker box: Roof A/C's? Inverter/charger? Microwave? Outlet-- detail what works/doesn't work on with inverter OFF
wolfe10 01/10/17 03:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: No power from shore or generator, ok on inverter, need help

I would not conclude that the ATS is bad until verified. If you are safe working around 240 VAC: remove the lid to the ATS. Check for power IN as well as power out: Red to white= 120 VAC Black to white= 120 VAC Red to black (on 50 amp connection)= 240 VAC Sure, if you find the proper readings on the IN side, but not OUT side, the ATS is bad. But I would check, not assume.
wolfe10 01/10/17 07:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A body roll

We are shooting all around the facts. Can shocks AID in controlling sway-- absolutely. Any dampening will help. Are shocks the first "line of defense" against sway-- absolutely NOT. No question-- replacing worn shocks with good ones will help with sway, but have an even more significant affect on porpoising. No one would suggest that shocks don't dampen. But side to side sway is much better controlled by sway bars.
wolfe10 01/09/17 06:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What determines battery cable size?

Since you suggest no heavy loads, the heaviest load (i.e. most amps that will need to be carried) is your charger/converter (up to 75 amps) I agree, #4 fine strand wire direct from battery with fuse to converter output. Also upgrade the ground connection at the battery. Chassis is OK to use for ground, but make sure the metal is clean and shiny and you have a good connection there. If in doubt, use two grounds from chassis to battery.
wolfe10 01/09/17 02:38pm Tech Issues
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