To get a softer ride without sacrificing handling means more $$. The Koni FSD has two sets of valves in it. That allows quite a lot less dampening over small, sharp bumps yet more dampening over the large ones. No rocket science, but they are more expensive to make that way.
Might ask others with same chassis on Class C section of the forum who have upgraded to either Bilstein or Koni for their observations. Ask them to tell you what shocks they had before and what difference they have experienced.
No one shock company makes the best shock for all applications.
Said another way, I like Bilsteins on some applications, Koni FSD's on others.
What vehicle are you shopping for? Looking more for comfort or handling/performance?
No doubt. I was more curious about the dealership than the quality of the MH. And yes from what I have been reading on this site and others it does matter where you buy.
I would slightly modify that statement. Sure, if the dealer is selling a unit they own and guaranteeing it, dealer matters.
But the majority of PPL's coaches are CONSIGNMENT. Meaning that the dealership has not gone through them and is not responsible for their condition.
You will find a wide range from "very well cared for" to "parked it outside and just drove it-- selling before we have to do any maintenance". And, it is up to the buyer to verify condition and determine a price based on what they find.
Again, consignment IS different than dealer owned.
Do you you mean 50" inches
Awful big RV to have a 50 ft wire run for the converter to batteries
Sadly, I have seen installations where the batteries were 25' from the batteries (25' for positive plus 25' for negative means those little electrons have to travel 50 feet round trip).
Like you, I hope this is not the case, and if it were, would sure look at relocating it.
Clean and check connections first.
Yes 50' (assume that is "round trip" or is it 100' is a LONG run for 60 amp output converter.
Any location closer to the battery bank where you could install the converter? Any closer very large gauge wire that you can connect to (something like cables to jack motor)?
I have no idea what voltage I am charging to. I have a battery tender to trickle charge them is there more I need to do beside checking water level monthly?
YES. You need to verify that charging voltage, particularly float voltage is what Crown calls for.
A digital voltmeter is your (and your battery's) friend.
From an article I wrote for the FMCA Magazine several years ago:
ALLISON TRANSMISSION MODE BUTTON
BY BRETT WOLFE, F252125
The Allison transmission control module (TCM), which is the "electronic brain" that controls shifting and other functions of the transmission, has two different automatic gear-selection modes/programs.
In Economy Mode, the transmission will not downshift even at wide-open throttle until the engine pulls down to peak torque rpm in some applications and 200 rpm lower than Performance Mode in others. In Performance Mode, the transmission will downshift much earlier to maintain higher engine rpm.
Only at higher throttle positions is there any difference, so on flat ground you will not notice any variation between the two modes, except when accelerating from a stop if you are at or close to wide-open throttle.
However, mode selection can make a big difference when traveling over rolling hills. If you drive in such areas while in Performance Mode (particularly with the cruise control on), it is common for the transmission to shift down to fifth gear on the uphill and back to sixth gear on the downhill, repeating this process hundreds of times. In Economy Mode, the transmission will stay in sixth gear unless the hill is so steep or so long that the engine cannot pull it without dropping below peak torque rpm. According to engine manufacturers, the most economical way to climb a hill with a modern turbocharged diesel engine is in a higher gear (lower engine rpm), provided the engine doesn’t overheat.
If, while driving in Economy Mode, you know you will need a lower gear because of the steepness of the grade and/or the engine temperature is rising higher than the thermostatically controlled temperature, use the down arrow to drop a gear (this is what I do) or switch out of Economy Mode. Be sure to switch back into Economy Mode when past the steep section or you will be stopping at a service station for fuel sooner than you expected.
While you are driving in hilly terrain, if your engine begins to overheat, the engine’s horsepower-to-weight ratio is low, or it irritates you to lose a few mph in the name of saving fuel, by all means drive in Performance Mode.
It confuses me to hear people advocate driving in Economy Mode only on flat ground, as there is not 1 percent difference in shift rpm between Performance and Economy modes on flat ground, except when accelerating from a stop if you use wide-open throttle.
Every time you start the motorhome, the transmission is in Performance Mode. This is the default setting. If you push the mode button, it goes to Economy Mode and the light illuminates.
There is no absolute number that can be given to illustrate the difference in fuel economy that will result when driving in Economy Mode. On flat ground where you will be in sixth gear no matter what mode you are in, there will be zero difference. The most significant difference in mileage will occur in rolling hills, where in Performance Mode, particularly if on cruise control, you will start up a hill in sixth gear, go to wide-open throttle in that gear, and downshift to fifth gear still at wide-open throttle, where it is using a lot more fuel. After the hill is crested, the transmission will upshift to sixth, then likely coast a little in that gear unless you are driving with the exhaust brake on. If you are, the exhaust brake will be applied and the transmission will downshift toward the preselected gear, which is generally either second gear or fourth gear. And so the process will continue, with the transmission shifting up to sixth gear on the downhill, back down to fifth gear on the uphill, etc. The problem with this is that a modern turbocharged diesel engine is much more efficient at low rpm with high throttle settings.
Note: In either mode, you are free to use the up and down arrows to proactively choose the correct gear. You cannot screw anything up, even if you downshift to first gear at 70 mph. The transmission circuitry understands that you want to downshift to the next lower gear as soon as the engine rpm will not exceed the preset amount. Then it will downshift again when safe.
By the same token, you can shift between Performance and Economy modes as often as you want with the transmission in any gear when you make the change.
I drive in Economy Mode 99 percent of the time, including in the mountains. I use the up and down shifting arrows to choose the proper gear. I use Performance Mode only to pass another vehicle on a two-lane road, when I am willing to sacrifice a little fuel economy to gain a short-term burst of speed.
The smaller of the two haves often cracks. Good luck. If it is cracked, there are some after market manifolds that look to be better built.
Have only seen the "larger (cylinders 3-6) cracked between 3 and 4. Would appreciate info on cracks on cylinders 1 and 2 manifold.
Also, a suggestion on a "better design" for the exhaust manifold. There are LOT of ISL's in RV's out there.
Have never seen an external filter on their system.
But, changing fluid is pretty simple.
4' of cheap clear plastic hose. Stick one end into the reservoir. Suck on the other end until you see fluid coming up. Lower your end and siphon out the fluid. Move the tank end around the bottom of the tank to "vacuum" any debris off the bottom.
If a lot of debris, you can use a screwdriver to "stir" the fluid.
No real substitute for a small house-type dehumidifier (shore power required).
The chemical dehumidifiers can remove less in total than a small house-type dehumidifier can in a couple of days, then you are back where you started.
If no way to have shore power, best answer is to rig solar powered vents. They only work during the day (when humidity lower), and pull in outside air and vent inside air. Have done this on several boats-- no shore power at anchor.