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Topic: Rewind Awning Spring?

Posted By: md2lgyk on 10/14/08 12:48pm

Anybody ever tried this? Do you need to wind from both ends or just one? Yes, I know it's potentially dangerous.


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Posted By: BillArf on 10/14/08 01:15pm

When you change awning fabric, replace a worn rt. torsion assembly, etc. you always in the replacement procedure have to re-tension the spring in the torsion assembly. (the assembly on the end where the awning flip lock is) This is common place/the normal procedure. Basically, you grasp the end piece with vice grips and have your helper be ready to re-insert the cotter pin. Wind the spring by the number of turns indicated for your model, in the direction indicated on the end cap. Insert the cotter pin to hold the spring tension. Replace the awning arm on the end piece and replace the bolt. Yes, you have to be careful. I have seen RV Techs replace the rt. torsion assembly, re-torsion the spring and doing so alone/with out any assist. They make it look easy to boot. Personally, I would not try to do it by myself. Care must be taken to control the spring tension at all times. Considerable force is stored in the spring and this force is easily able to break a wrist or inflict a severe cut or other injury.






Posted By: RVman3252 on 10/14/08 02:37pm

javaseuf wrote:

Most awnings have a spring on both ends of the tube.

On the left spring (rear), turn clockwise about 8 turns. On the front spring, counter-clockwise 8 turns.


I just had the fabric on my awning replaced by my Dealer. This is exactly the way he did it. Both sides must have close to the same tension on both ends, or your fabric will not roll up straight.

RVman / John


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Posted By: davelinde on 10/14/08 03:04pm

javaseuf wrote:

Most awnings have a spring on both ends of the tube.

On the left spring (rear), turn clockwise about 8 turns. On the front spring, counter-clockwise 8 turns.


This will depend on the spring and tube length. I just had mine apart and unwound the old spring. Both sides had 14 turns on them. The new assembly was pre-tensioned so I just installed it and pulled the cotter pins and it worked.

On my design (A&E Sunchaser II) it would not be hard to add or adjust the tension with two people. Vice-grips on the end, take out one bolt, add/subtract the turns and re-install one bolt. Then repeat on the other side.


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Posted By: javaseuf on 10/14/08 01:36pm

Most awnings have a spring on both ends of the tube.

On the left spring (rear), turn clockwise about 8 turns. On the front spring, counter-clockwise 8 turns.






Posted By: Hornet28BHDS on 10/14/08 03:44pm

Be careful!


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Posted By: 96Bounder30E on 10/14/08 03:50pm

I replaced the arms on a CareFree of Colorado awning one time.....arms came with new springs.........each side required 17 turns........

I used 2 6 foot ladders to set the awning tube on and then used motorcyle staps around the tube to keep it secured to the ladder.......then one arm at a time put 17 revolutions on.......wasn't a big deal.......


Posted By: BillArf on 10/14/08 04:43pm

javaseuf wrote:

Most awnings have a spring on both ends of the tube.

On the left spring (rear), turn clockwise about 8 turns. On the front spring, counter-clockwise 8 turns.


Indeed two springs, I did not mean to imply otherwise. I did mention I have seen the rt. torsion easily replaced. How many turns is based on brand, how long the awning is, etc.


Posted By: BillArf on 10/16/08 06:25am

How many turns..



To wind/tension..



For those 22' plus long awnings..



Posted By: BillArf on 10/16/08 07:46am

RVnRobin wrote:

I hope this is not too far off topic... Do I need to unwind the tension spring to work on the ratchet for the up/down function to my awning? My ratchet has not worked for some time now. The end cap on the roller tube is cocked out of alignment, and I am thinking the gears no longer line up. Any suggestions?


Yes, both end assemblies are under spring tension. The side with the locking pawl is the right side. Undoubtedly, you will end up replacing the rt. torsion assembly if the locking pawl is broken. You use to be able to get replacement parts in regard to the locking pawl but now you have to buy the whole rt. torsion assembly. By the way, the newer rt. torsion assembly is improved/works better. You know you have a newer rt. torsion assembly if when you put the awning up you hear as click, click, click from the rt. torsion assembly as you put the awning up. Oh, I believe a new rt torsion assembly (the part itself) runs about $70 these days.


Posted By: RVnRobin on 10/16/08 07:35am

I hope this is not too far off topic... Do I need to unwind the tension spring to work on the ratchet for the up/down function to my awning? My ratchet has not worked for some time now. The end cap on the roller tube is cocked out of alignment, and I am thinking the gears no longer line up. Any suggestions?


So much to experience, so little time.



Posted By: md2lgyk on 10/16/08 07:41am

BillArf: One more question - Is the winding done while the awning is fully extended, or nearly stowed as the illustration?


Posted By: md2lgyk on 10/16/08 07:30am

Excellent! Thanks much.


Posted By: md2lgyk on 10/16/08 05:57am

Thanks for all the information! The awning is an A&E 8500 series. I need to rewind because I had to replace both support arms (bent in the wind). I had no instructions of any kind, so of course when I disconnected the roller from the arms all the tension unwound. There are no arrows I can find showing which way to wind.


Posted By: JoeH on 10/19/08 12:00pm

F550-4X4 wrote:

I just recently added a little tension to mine but I cheated. With the awning fully extended I removed the top part of the arm by removing a set screw in the channel that it slides in on the lower arm. Then with someone holding the end of the awning up I released the lower arm from the camper like you would if you were putting it in carport mode. Now all you have to do is spin the whole lower arm around to tension the spring. Repeat on the other end to wind both springs. I didn't like the idea of drilling out pop rivets and using channel locks. This was on a Carefree and I've also helped a friend do the same thing to an A&E 8500.

May not be the recommended method but it works.


I've been thinking about doing the same thing as the awning needs a little help to retract. How many additional turns did you put on it ?


Posted By: JJBIRISH on 10/19/08 12:57pm

I wouldn't add more than one turn that is recommended for your awning... to many turns and it will become coil bound and break the spring anyway...

if it isn't retracting properly you may want to make sure one spring isn't already broken resulting in mot enough tension to properly roll it up...


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Posted By: F550-4X4 on 10/20/08 04:16am

JoeH wrote:

I've been thinking about doing the same thing as the awning needs a little help to retract. How many additional turns did you put on it ?


I added 2 turns to each end of mine when it started rolling up slow.

Good luck and happy camping!


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Posted By: F550-4X4 on 10/16/08 09:26am

I just recently added a little tension to mine but I cheated. With the awning fully extended I removed the top part of the arm by removing a set screw in the channel that it slides in on the lower arm. Then with someone holding the end of the awning up I released the lower arm from the camper like you would if you were putting it in carport mode. Now all you have to do is spin the whole lower arm around to tension the spring. Repeat on the other end to wind both springs. I didn't like the idea of drilling out pop rivets and using channel locks. This was on a Carefree and I've also helped a friend do the same thing to an A&E 8500.

May not be the recommended method but it works.


Posted By: BillArf on 10/16/08 07:48am

md2lgyk wrote:

BillArf: One more question - Is the winding done while the awning is fully extended, or nearly stowed as the illustration?


Everytime I have seen it done, the awning was down/open/extended.


Posted By: md2lgyk on 10/16/08 09:01am

Great, thanks.


Posted By: md2lgyk on 10/16/08 09:56am

Now THAT'S a good idea. I'll give it a try.


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