twobachs
Michigan
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Joined: 02/23/2005
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I'm thinking to build a storage building of my 40' MoHo and I'm trying to get some ideas, costs, etc. from someone that has gone through the process. Your input would be helpful.
Jim & Jule
2004 Fleetwood Revolution 40 DP
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Wildflower
Michigan
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Joined: 02/10/2008
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We built one about 10 years ago. We priced "pole barns" as well as a custom "stick built"; we opted for the later when we realized it was very competitive. First suggestion is build it bigger than you need. We assumed a 40' barn was that length and soon found out it wasn't the actual inside measurement. We ended up extending out the back for our current MH. Also, it's a known phenomenom - you have a barn you find lots more to put in it. A HUGE consideration is door height. Make sure you can pull your unit in without dumping air. It just saves a great deal on nerves. We're so happy to have it and believe it's well worth the money. Not sure with today's costs but 10 years ago it was about $23,000 - but we also used siding to match our house. We felt that if we were spending that much money on a MH it was worth it to have a good place to store it. Good luck.
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Mikeeg
Freehold New Jersey
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Joined: 04/25/2007
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I had a RV port installed last fall which is galvanized trusses and metal side wall and roof. The Rv port has held up to snow and wind and cost is very reasonable. This is the company www.Gaport.com I used, they where very professional and there installation was great. The cost for a 12x36 with 12'legs and two side panels and door openning was $3200.00 GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!
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Musicman
Wenatchee, WA
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Joined: 02/28/2002
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Be sure to build bigger than you think you need at this time. I'm speaking from the position of being limited by the size of my garage. I didn't build my garage myself. I bought the place with it already in place. It fits our current rig, but will no allow for any "up-sizing".
Musicman
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'97 Winnebago Vectra
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dontay
Mims, Florida
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Joined: 03/22/2003
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Ours is steel 20x50 on a 6" concrete floor with 16" footers around the perimeter. The sidewalls are 15' and the peak of the roof is 18' It uses 4x4 steel trusses on 5' centers and is wind rated to 130mph.
I had the windows raised so the bottoms are 6' off the floor. This puts them at the correct height so one can see out from the MH. It also would make it difficult to climb into them from the ground. 20' may seem wide but when the LR slide is out and a storage compartment is opened there is just room to squeeze by.
Our roll up door is 12' wide and 14' high. While the height is fine I would like it if it was 14' wide. When backing in the mirrors sure seem close to the door frame.
Ours required 36" of fill so we put in a 20x20 apron also 6" thick to get it down to ground level. I ran a string from the back wheels to the drop hitch to calculate how long the apron had to be to avoid dragging the rear.
I can walk on the roof at the center of the garage almost without bending over which makes it nice for maint on both the coach and the building.
If I remember correctly it was mid 30's with dirt work, concrete, building, and erection. I put in 50 amp service, water, and telephone myself. I did not put in sewer because it is 200' from the house and would have required its own septic tank. The permitting alone was enough not to want to fool with the septic system. I used a Sewer Solution while we lived in it as the new house was built.
It is a very nice addition to the property and I'm glad we put it in. There are pictures in the website in my signature.
Good Luck.
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2006 Allegro Bay 34XB with Freightliner FRED chassis, 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4x4
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA USA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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Go bigger then you planned on.
Insure the floor is thick enough and the contractor compacts the sub floor. Mason contractor on mine didn't know that a 2X6 is only 5 1/2 inches.
Install lighting along the sides of your rig, not right over the top.
Thick about installing the electrical on the correct side. Mark it good for the contractor. Figure on a 50 ampere setup even if you are only 30 amp.
If possible install water connection inside so it can be used without running too many hoses.
The garage door needs to be 14 foot min.
I had one built a couple years ago. The contractor was suppose to know what he was doing. The structural did good, but the mason, plumber and electrician didn't know much.
Bud
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w4phj
Vero Beach, FL
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Joined: 09/13/2001
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I'm current building a 43Wx45D CBS on 6" slab using rebar and 3000psi cement. 24"X24" footer. Will have 2 ports each with a 14X14 door. One rear 36" door. Estimated total expense is 62K built to hurricane specs....Not much worried about snow load on roof.
2005 Bounder 37U Cat C7 Engine
2007 Dodge 2500 4X4 5.9 Cummins Laramie
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OkStateRV'er
Oklahoma
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Joined: 11/04/2004
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We built a 30X50 steel insulated RV barn last September. Send me a PM with your email address and I can send a link to a Flickr photo website with 50 photos from start to finish.
2008 Dutchstar 4304
2008 Honda CR-V EX-L, M&G brake system, Falcon 2 tow-bar, Garmin nuvi 350 GPS
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352
Oxfofd, Fl
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Joined: 04/20/2004
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24x42', 13' entry,2 bays,12' and 9' wide,4" monolithic slab with fiber,entry has 20"x20" footer with 2 #5 re bar.If you need more particulars PM me
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dcbrewer
kentucky
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Joined: 01/17/2006
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I built mine 2 years ago, 28x48 with 16.5 ft ceiling, and 14x14 door. I would not go any smaller with door. It may be overkill, but I poured 8 inch concrete floor with rebar so jacks could be used. still use plywood between jacks and floor. Also put in 50 Amp and sewer drain and water hookup. Stud framed with OSB and vinyl siding with 30 yr singles on roof. I have about 20,000 in it and done a lot of the work myself. Think about what you need and do it right.
H.B.
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