I have a 05' Laredo BHS, the grey tank has two cracks , one on each side of the exit hole. I'm trying to decide if replacing it is a job I want to do. From the underside it looks pretty straight forward, and as best I can see the tank is right under my shower.
1-So my queastion is how do the drain pipes secure into the top of the tank are they generally a glued joint or some sort of slip joint?
2- My grey water valve has always had a little leak, is there a rebuild kit or should I just put a whole new gate/valve in while I'm in there?
Any info would surely be appreciated.
Thanks, G.
* This post was
edited 11/29/09 07:51pm by Grimace *
I can't speak from experience, but I'd think that the top is connected with a slip joint/rubber collar. This would allow for movement, without cracking a glued fitting between the shower and tank.
If it has a screw clamp or not....I just don't know.
I would replace the valve....cheaper in the long run. You can buy a rebuild kit, and fix the old one, as a spare, but why bother...unless you find that you are hard on these valves for some reason??
Remember, the shower isn't the only drain going into the tank, so check out the other drain lines...you may be able to tell how they connect from those.
Have you considered an epoxy patch to repair the old tank? Just be sure to rough sand around the fitting, so that the epoxy has better adhesion. I'd also drill a "end hole" to stop the crack from getting any worse. Just drill a very small hole at the end of the crack, to relieve any stresses. Then puddy patch.
Lots cheaper, and will last several years...if not longer. By then, you will probably be upgrading anyway.
Bill & Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris Dogs: Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie, Annie, Maggie & Beau RIP: Cookie (Sheltie) & Gidget (Lab-mix) over the Rainbow Bridge.
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April 2008 FMCA# F407293 The Pets
they vary how they are fitted. some have pvc male pipe threads that screw into the tank. some have a "welded" plastic fitting that a pvc pipe fits into. regardless, you will have to cut the pipes for the inlet and the vent. i hope you have some access from the side to be able to do this, or you will have to partially lower the tank n support it till you can use a sawsall to cut the pipes. when you go back you may have to cut the pipe down stream from the tank and install a boot there, and just go ahead and glue the fittings at the tank.
it took me 8 hrs to do one tank by myself, it helps if YOU have help. its a job, but you can do it or you wouldn't even be thinking of tryin. any more q's give me a yell.
steve
steve sandidge
RVIA certified rv tech
camping world rv university
class 54
fix-it rv service
USMC 1982-1994
91 holiday rambler imperial 37'
Thanks guys, initially I was thinking a repair( epoxy tank repair and eternabond) would work, but then I saw the second crack, both are more than 2" long. My concern with a large repair is will it become to rigid to expand and contract with the tank? Also, it looks like the factory spread a yellow glue / epoxy around this area already, would the existing glue have any ill effect on the repair?
You might be able to find a tank just about the same size as your current ones, and they sell the fittings you will need to add to the tanks. You could also call them and ask about repair techniques.
A wire brush that attaches to a portable drill might come in handy to clean the tank, in preparations to put on a glue on patch.
Thanks guys. I think I'm going to try the repair first. To access the plumbing on top of the tank I would need to cut open a wall, doable but not really desireable. I'll report back when my ducks are in a row.
Replacing the tank is asking for a lot of work when there are a couple of alternatives to look at first. There is now a process for welding these plastic tanks both clear and black.
My preferred approach is to purchase one or more holding tank repair kits made by an outfit called SYON. Usually available at RV supply and parts places. They make kits for all the different plastic holding tanks including fuel tanks, rv shower stalls, freshwater tanks,etc. By following the directions carefully you will have a successful repair and save yourself a whole lot of grief trying to remove a tank from a built and complete unit that the tank was installed in probably before much else; if not first.
Also definitely drill the small holes at each end of the cracks as others have suggested.
jwmII wrote: Replacing the tank is asking for a lot of work when there are a couple of alternatives to look at first. There is now a process for welding these plastic tanks both clear and black.
My preferred approach is to purchase one or more holding tank repair kits made by an outfit called SYON. Usually available at RV supply and parts places. They make kits for all the different plastic holding tanks including fuel tanks, rv shower stalls, freshwater tanks,etc. By following the directions carefully you will have a successful repair and save yourself a whole lot of grief trying to remove a tank from a built and complete unit that the tank was installed in probably before much else; if not first.
Also definitely drill the small holes at each end of the cracks as others have suggested.
Thats the stuff I was trying to find locally today. I think Versa-Chem and Syon are of one now. I noticed they have one specific to Holding tanks too. I will drill the holes as mentioned. Thanks a bunch gentlmen.
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