Ok guys, I need some help. Atwood Model # GCH10A-4E. installed in Class A. Tech Reps at Winnebago have told me it's either the element or the thermostat. (I'm very familiar with electric water heaters as we have one on our stick home). Tech Rep states to get to the element you crawl under the water heater and get to the back side. There, one will see an access panel with screws holding it in place. Access panel should be large enough for access, for what I'm being told. (I've got an ohm meter and the socket adaptor to remove the screw in element). I'll first check for continuity of the element. Let's hope that is it. If the elements checks out OK, I'll then replace the two thermostat's (purchased at Atwood dealer). I also understand there is a "relay" push button switch that could be tripped (that would be wonderful if that's all it is).
Any and all suggestions/experiences are appreciated as how to accomplish this task in the LEAST frustrating way.
Happy Holidays.
Could be more than those items given to you by tech.
Some have 12 volt control to the 120 volt relay. It is possible the control board or relay is bad. Have you checked to insure both the switches are on?
If yes, have you checked the thermal cutout on the thermostat? Large red button. Atwood
This is more like the one you have. Look at wiring diagram 12.Atwood DSI
I found that the cheap on/off switch located on the water heater had fallen apart so the unit wasn't getting any 120VAC. I hard wired around the switch and now use the breaker to turn on/off the 120VAC
1. In 2003 Atwood stopped installing the REAR 120 ECO (which has the reset button) AND the rear 120 Tstat. You have a 2006 model still? Prior to 2003 you have a set of tstats/ECO for the 120 and a set for the LP. After 2003, The outside tstat and ECO control BOTH the LP and 120 heat. The ONLY thing accessed at the rear is the 120 element and the 12 volt relay that the 12 volt control board closes to supply power to the heat element. So, from MY experiance, the relay never fails and if it does you will see it burnt up. The YELLOW wire on the outside control module sends 12 volt power to the 120 relay. So, the FIRST thing is to see if you have 12 volts on that yellow wire when you turn on the 120 switch. IF you do, then you have a 99% probability the 120 element is burnt out. The other possibility would be that relay or NO 120 power to the back of the W/H. Doug
dons2346 wrote: I found that the cheap on/off switch located on the water heater had fallen apart so the unit wasn't getting any 120VAC. I hard wired around the switch and now use the breaker to turn on/off the 120VAC
Might want to rethink that and install another switch. Unless the breaker is a 'SWD' (switch duty) breaker you should not use a circuit breaker as a switch. Every time you open or close that breaker a small arc occurs (especially if under load at the time)at the contacts. A switch or SWD breaker is designed with this in mind. IF you use a breaker that isn't an SWD type, the breaker may fail. It may fail to close (turn on), or more dangerously, it may fail to open, because the contacts have arc-welded themselves together.
dougrainer wrote: 1. In 2003 Atwood stopped installing the REAR 120 ECO (which has the reset button) AND the rear 120 Tstat. You have a 2006 model still? Prior to 2003 you have a set of tstats/ECO for the 120 and a set for the LP. After 2003, The outside tstat and ECO control BOTH the LP and 120 heat. The ONLY thing accessed at the rear is the 120 element and the 12 volt relay that the 12 volt control board closes to supply power to the heat element. So, from MY experiance, the relay never fails and if it does you will see it burnt up. The YELLOW wire on the outside control module sends 12 volt power to the 120 relay. So, the FIRST thing is to see if you have 12 volts on that yellow wire when you turn on the 120 switch. IF you do, then you have a 99% probability the 120 element is burnt out. The other possibility would be that relay or NO 120 power to the back of the W/H. Doug
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