fuzzbutt
Pittsburgh
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Joined: 11/17/2006
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While changing the oil for next weekends trip, I unplugged my shore power and my coach lights went out. When I hit my dash switch, it didn't make the loud click it normally does and the lights didn't come on like they should have. I disconnected the cables and put the charger on one of the batteries and meter showed they are charged. I will test the voltage tomorrow. There is a solenoid mounted inside the battery box. I'm guessing I had a bad connection or a bad solenoid. Is there a way to test it? Would someone like NAPA carry a replacement? I might just replace it once I have the terminals off. All my lights function fine when plugged in to shore power. I'm thinking the solenoid should make noise when the dash switch it cycled. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
John, Sherry & Sabrina
+ Mowgli (Keeshond) Shane (Border Collie) Sunny (Sun Conure) & Lily (Cockatiel)
94 Winnebago Adventurer 34'
04 Nissan Murano
05 Acura TL
92 Honda Gold Wing
Now.....bring me that horizon.
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Son of Norway
Denver, Colorado
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One way to test a solenoid is to check the voltage of the battery cables at the main lugs of the solenoid. Normally they should be a little different with one side being the house battery and the other side being the chassis battery. Then turn on the solenoid switch and you should hear a "click". Check the voltage on both sides of the solenoid again. With current flowing through the solenoid, the voltage should be the same on either side. Even with a "click" the solenoid can still be bad. Unless you need some specific kind, you can usually find a new solenoid at any RV or auto parts supplier like NAPA. They aren't very expensive and they are easy to replace. Just make sure to disconnect all power before doing so.
Miles
Miles and Darcey
1989 Holiday Rambler Crown Imperial
Denver, CO
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wolfe10
Texas
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Lights work off the house battery bank, So, no light: showed dead.
The ignition/engine start works off the chassis battery bank: showed dead.
If you check voltage at each battery bank and it is 12.2+ (a 50% discharged battery as measured with the battery at rest) start by removing, cleaning and tightening the ground and positive wires at batteries and chassis, starter, etc.
* This post was
edited 05/19/12 08:21pm by wolfe10 *
Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
EX: 1993 Foretravel 36' U-240
FMCA Forum: www.community.fmca.com/index
Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/
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1995brave
San Antonio, TX
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Here is the link to the wiring diagrams for youir Winne. There are two solenoids used on Winnebagos. One to turn the house batteries on and off and the other to charge the house batteries while driving and the boost start. The battery on/off is a dual coil latching solenoid and the voltage applied is momentary to latch or release the contacts.
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helperzack
Florida - Tennessee
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I recently had the same type of problem. Found that it was the 12v battery disconnect solenoid.
If you look at this link and this is like yours, to test it you disconnect the batteries, then remove to two connectors on the + and - on the solenoid. Using an ohm meter check the resistance across that coil (+/-) If it reads less than 4ohms then the solenoid is bad. Mine read zero!
I ordered from the factory and had the replacement in a few days.
Note that the KIB factory will want to know the mfg and model of your RV as they needed more than the part number on the actual solenoid to get the correct one.
Happy Camping!
Coachmen Mirada 310DS
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Clay L
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
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Below are a couple of diagrams showing the typical Winnebago battery disconnect solenoid wiring.
The first one shows how the battery disconnect switch reverses polarity of the two wires to switch the latching solenoid. Voltage only appears on the two wires switching wires - LG and LH - on the solenoid when the switch is pressed.
I drew the first to make it easier to see how the switching is done without having to go from one diagram to another.
Clay (WA5NMR), Lee (Wife), Katie (cat).
Full Timing in a 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N, Workhorse chassis, Honda Accord toad
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fuzzbutt
Pittsburgh
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Thanks for the info guys. This morning I disconnected all the wires and pulled out the batteries. I put the voltmeter on the 1st one and it was putting out 12.7 volts. I put it on the second one it it was only putting out 11 volts. I tested the specific gravity and had a bad cell. I did some calling around and Costco seemed to have the best price on a group 27 deep cycle. I cleaned all my connections and installed the new battery. Everything now works fine. What I thought was a solenoid on the side of the battery box seem to be just a terminal block. What is really strange is my hydraulic levelers wouldn't work either. I had lights on the control box but no power to the pump when I moved the levers. That also works fine now. I will change out the other deep cycle the next time I go to Costco who they are even. Any clue where the master disconnect solenoid is mounted? I can buy Cole Hersey direct so if I can get some numbers off the old solenoid I'm sure they can interchange it.
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Clay L
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
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Both solenoids are usually mounted close to the batteries. Sometimes in a box under the steps, sometimes in a box in a compartment next to the steps.
The solenoids can be bought at a number of places.
A couple are:
Lichtsinn Motors a dealer a couple of miles from the Winnebago factory or MURCAL a Thrombeta distributor.
If you go to the Winnebago web site you can download a parts catalog for your specific motor home.
If you have your VIN Lichtsinn can cross it to your Winnebago ID number and give you the part number.
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fuzzbutt
Pittsburgh
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Clay L wrote:Both solenoids are usually mounted close to the batteries. Sometimes in a box under the steps, sometimes in a box in a compartment next to the steps.
The solenoids can be bought at a number of places.
A couple are:
Lichtsinn Motors a dealer a couple of miles from the Winnebago factory or MURCAL a Thrombeta distributor.
If you go to the Winnebago web site you can download a parts catalog for your specific motor home.
If you have your VIN Lichtsinn can cross it to your Winnebago ID number and give you the part number. . Thanks Clay. I will be crawling under there soon to clean and lube the hydraulic levelers. I will look for them while I am under there.
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427435
Rochester, Mn
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Joined: 11/12/2005
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I've replaced the "booster" relay twice on my MH. First time was when I first got the MH 7 years ago, and it wouldn't work. It quit working again last fall. They are available for anywhere from $8 to $20 depending on where you shop. With Fords, it's probably a good idea to carry a spare, as the same kind of solenoid is also used in the engine starting circuit.
Mark
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis, 74,000 miles
2003 Ford Explorer toad with Ready Brake supplemental brakes,
Ready Brute tow bar, and Demco base plate.
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