Have a Soils Engineering do a boring in the area where the slab will go. It will cost you a couple of hundred dollars, but that is what these guys do. He should be able to tell you the type of slab to use for the load you will place on it. As said many time above the slab is a variant of the soil conditions and no one can guess that.
I have no experience with fiber mesh, so cannot comment on that, however, if I go to the trouble and expense to pour concrete it will have steel re-bar in it and it will be engineered. I currently have a 4" thick drive and 6X6X6 WW mesh in that. When the ground is wet down here the coach (42 ft 38,000lbs) will squish the mud from under the broken concrete and the concrete is spalling of the edges where I have to have it patched every year. All concrete will crack, but if engineered properly it will remain in place and continue to support the load it was engineered for. Spend a little extra and do it once. Taking shortcuts and guessing will have you repairing the drive like mine all the time.
ctc
Thanks,
lunch surfer
My Santa Cruz Superlite is my best vehicle, but my Mandalay 40e is a close 2nd.
Traveling USA looking for the best bike trails and campsites.
Rodz wrote: Properly compacted soil and cured 4" concrete is all you need. Anything else is overkill. I poured a 3 1/2" slab for a customer over 15 yrs. ago with no issues. All concrete cracks even with no weight on it.
Bob
Agreed except all concrete cracks is incorrect and if the releif lines are cut properly with a self driven wet cutter the cracks if any will only follow those releif lines
Rodz wrote: Properly compacted soil and cured 4" concrete is all you need. Anything else is overkill. I poured a 3 1/2" slab for a customer over 15 yrs. ago with no issues. All concrete cracks even with no weight on it.
Bob
Agreed except is incorrect and if the releif lines are cut properly with a self driven wet cutter the cracks if any will only follow those releif lines
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