We've upgraded our RV from an '06 Savoy to a '12 Rockwood. But I'm still driving my 2004 F250 Diesel.
It's got 150,000 miles on it. I know the engine will run forever, but I'm concerned about other things, like body integrety, rear axle, transmission, etc.
I've recently replaced the running boards because of rust, but an not aware of any other rust problems.
My A/C went out during the last trip for the second time in a month.
The dealer told me I may need to replace my brakes during the last oil change.
All little stuff, so far.
So any thoughts on the safe, useable life of RV towing for a truck?
Thanks,
-WM
Rockwood Signature Ultra Light 5th Wheel 8280WS
2004 F250 CC, PSD, SB
B&W Companion Hitch
Wife: Kathy (not property, but she didn't want to be left out)
2 doxies: PD & Frank
We took our 3 month old Fiver on it's 4th a trip last week. We got about 20 miles north of home when a guy in an old pick-up sideswiped our truck and the trailer.
Everyone was fine, but the truck and trailer both need body work. Then the A/C broke down in the 95+ heat of central and south Texas. And the mud flap opposite the side of the wreck fell off.
This, after our third trip in which I managed to poke a hole in the rubber roof, and the deadbolt broke.
It just felt like nothing was working, and the urge is to abandon everything and start new!
Rational thought tells me to hang in there, and just fix stuff. But I'm not real rational this week, so I thought I'd do some reality testing by way of this forum!
My 32 year old 1980 Silverado listed in my sig continues to run...even after
towing a +14K lb utility trailer that bent the Silverado's frame rail during a
hellish ride coming down a windfarm in the Tehachapi Pass (Pajeula Peak, former Arbutus).
It weighed well over 7K lbs, that for a 'heavy half' of it's day with a 6,200 lb GVWR
Praise Dyno Braking shoes and pads with a larger MC & double chamber power assist
Built 5.7L (SS valves, 280 cam, head work, 4 bolt, Edelbrock Performer intake &
carb, etc) along with a built automatic. 3.73's with 33/12.5R15LT load range C's on alloy 15x8's...can still beat up many 'cars' out
on the boulevard when out there cruising after a run to the hardware store...
Think on it's 3rd AC compressor. Also it's 2nd radiator.
HD U-Joints and shocks. 1 ton coil helper springs on the rear axle.
40,000 lb rated ATF cooler in front of the main radiator. Cold, ram air into the
OEM filter canister, which has the OEM over sized air filter.
Silverado was the highest trim level back then...not the model line it is today.
No power anything (crank windows).
It is approaching 500K miles. Sig is old and can't change it...else have to par
it down as the new rules limits the number of characters allowed
Works for me, but most here would have tossed it decades ago. Plus it
has sentimental value...dad gave it to me after abusing it for years
as their mom'n pop grocery/butcher shop truck.
Current TV is a 1996 GMT400 8.6K GVWR Suburban K3500/4x4/7.4L/4.1/SLT (highest
trim level)/etc.
Now in the shop getting a new steering box because I wore out the OEM one.
Was looking at going to diesel, but after reading the futures back in the
early 2000's, decided to avoid the EPA mandated SMOG freight train coming down
the road.
Most likely will NEVER buy new again, as the fashion statement crowd has driven
the new trucks into pure luxury with little of the 'truckness' I like/love/demand
Plus can't work on the new trucks, as the OEMs have dumbed it down by ever increasing
complexity with computer controlled everything.
If me, I'd just keep it and fix whatever till the wheels fall off or
can't/won't fix it anymore. Would still have my 1973 K5 Blazer, but
the body rusted badly and the now Ex said I had to sell it...
Sold my 1970 FJ40 for the K5 because of her...should'a kept the FJ40
and dumped her...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
neighbor has a F250 7.3 Power stroke, almost 300K miles on it virtually all of it towing a 30' cargo trailer. Other than some normal wear and tear and regualar maintence it's going strong.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
Wanderingman wrote: It's got 150,000 miles on it. I know the engine will run forever, but I'm concerned about other things, like body integrety, rear axle, transmission, etc.
You worry too much.
...and people vastly under estimate vehicle life today.
I have a 1996 tacoma, 300k miles, factory clutch.
It's been used hard all it's life: towing, hauling stone, dirt, overloaded etc.
This last year the head gasket failed and I had them replaced.
While they had the heads off I had them measure all 6 cylinders: TDC, BDC and mid travel; six points at each location.
All wearing in spec and round (ie not oval requiring bore over).
Also no sludge, etc and I do 10k mile oil changes.
basically, that tells me if I need a clutch or a transmission and the clock says less than 600k, I'm doing it.
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