new to camping have a 94 skamper 26ft pull behind, dometic fridge works good for 2 days then goes to check light and thaws out, on elec or gas, reset and within 3 min back to check light, let it set off few days turm back on then its good for a day or so, please help, changed batterys, no difference ???
1992 thru 1997, the Dometic control boards had a check light problem. The ONLY fix is to replace the control board with the current board that had the problem fixed internally. You also need to install a "ground Loop" wiring kit for this problem in addition to a new control board. To determine IF you have the original control board, remove the black cover and IF the board epoxy is yellow/Beige, the board is defective. If greenish, you have a current updated board and look at the Reignitor or spark electrode for the failure. Doug
yea mine is the yellow board, fuse prongs seem weak to barely squeeze fuse, had a rv service come here to lake look at it but i was gone he called me said he brought a board and that wasnt the problem, he said he thought a wire issue low voltage, but i dunno, i think its board, its so erratic, may work a hour, may work 2 days, when goes to check i unplug it at the access panel outside and just wiggle things around, come in play with power button until locks back onto ac, then as asais may work a hour or 2 days, service guy wanted 199$ new board but doesnt thoink thats it, who knows!
* This post was
edited 07/15/12 04:13pm by glw165 *
Same situation with mine....
I am surprised to see so few answers...and no real cure to this well known defect.
Ok, lets try again !
99 Chinook Concourse 13000 miles
Y2K Silverado 1/2 ton...Whipple Supercharger,SuperSprings Airlifts (I know...)
97 Bigfoot 15C9.5FS ,FastGuns, 2 x 75w Solar
77 Chevy 1 Ton C30 (I love this truck)
2000 Chinook concourse (uncomfortable , badly designed rv ,must get rid of it :-( )
There are indeed cures for this- enough so that I have not seen one do this in years.The first service bulletin is http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/R704B.pdf- the basic thrust of this is that the grounds were bad.
A bit of background on the many problems- the first boards were double layered, and the connection between the layers would get intermittent- they went through several versions of the potted board- all had problems.
Along with these bad boards, the ground scheme was bad- worked OK when new, but corrosion would take its toll. The board senses the flame via a thermocouple- the thermocouple generates around 30 millivolts DC, and 15 millivolts is the "drop out" voltage. The original problem was the thermocouple was grounded the a ground strip as reference, and when the board would open the gas valve, the ground would "float" above true ground, thus the board would not see the full thermocouple voltage. A rewiring solves this problem (connecting the gas valve to the ground strip, hooking the thermocouple ground to the board, and hooking the ignition module to the gas valve, so it is energized whenever the gas valve is).
Later models suffered from a batch of bad thermocouples- for a while I saw a ton that would put out right at 15 mv.
Of course- all of this is after doing the basics- clean burner, good LP pressure. Good voltages, etc.
Neverhappy wrote: Same situation with mine....
I am surprised to see so few answers...and no real cure to this well known defect.
Ok, lets try again !
99 Chinook Concourse 13000 miles
The Cure is as I stated. IF you have the beige Epoxy Board the ONLY fix is to replace the board with the current updated board and install the ground loop kit. IF you have the current Greenish epoxy board, then you look at the Thermocoupler and the reignitor. The original defective boards would work for weeks/months or days and then turn off the LP flame and throw the check light. The older the boards got the faster it went to check. Doug
Neverhappy wrote: Same situation with mine....
I am surprised to see so few answers...and no real cure to this well known defect.
Ok, lets try again !
99 Chinook Concourse 13000 miles
The Cure is as I stated. IF you have the beige Epoxy Board the ONLY fix is to replace the board with the current updated board and install the ground loop kit. IF you have the current Greenish epoxy board, then you look at the Thermocoupler and the reignitor. The original defective boards would work for weeks/months or days and then turn off the LP flame and throw the check light. The older the boards got the faster it went to check. Doug
"Neverhappy" -- If you go to the Chinook discussion forum you'll get the same answer that Doug above and others have stated.
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