My 2014 did what you describe just once. Immediately took it to the Ford store. They diagnosed a bad throttle body. It was fixed, at a cost of approximately $750. My extended warranty is now half paid for.
Mine has run fine since then.
I have a Ford F-150 Ecoboost 3.5 engine with 55,000 miles that is junk! First of all it just stalls without warning in the middle of freeway, highway, road, parking lot wherever it feels like it with out any warning anytime which make it very dangerous. I have a screen comes up with a large wrench on it but no check engine light. You have to come to a complete stop, put it in Park and start it back up, runs fine for a day or two or maybe just an hour, it varies. I took it to the dealership and they ran a diagnosis on it and nothing came up. They ran a history on it and still nothing. It's not under warranty anymore, they said its probably the fuel throttle body but without a code showing it could be several different things. Going back tomorrow spending 400.00 dollars hoping it fixes it.
Oh also the serviceman drove it to see if he could get the light to come back on, when he came back hes like, you don't feel that shaking when you apply the brakes? I'm like yeah but right now I'm just trying to keep it running not worried about stopping. He then said that my rotors were warped and more than likely will have to be replaced. He then asked me if I towed a travel trailer and told him a lite one and he said there's your problem. I'm like what? he said we've had several come in that had to be replaced caused they were warped. I'm like well what good is a tow package and a heavy payload package if it's going to warp the rotors? He just shrugged his shoulders.
What ya'll think? anyone else out there with this problem, I'm surprised no one has gotten killed from it just stalling like that, oh it goes into a limp mode but it want go, it just lets you turn and apply the brakes. very dangerous!!
I generally use the length, bumper to end of hitch. I use this number because that's what I have to pull behind my TV. My wife will say it's 21 feet since that roughly the length of the box we live in.
I have a 2014 F150 with HD pkg. It came with LT245/75R17 LRE tires OEM. The door sticker says 55 front and 60 rear, and that's what I run. I haven't found the need yet to add air to either the rear or front tires when towing.
What is the major advantage to LED's for the taillights and the running lights? I understand the desire to change out the interior lights, due to energy savings, but energy is no problem for taillights and running lights.
To switch out my old TT tailights to LED's, I assume I would have to get a new socket. Correct ?
When in Vicksburg in Feb 2014, we stayed at the Ameristar RV Park.
It is owned/run by the Ameristar Casino folks. We fould it to be nice, quiet, clean park. Rates seemed to be reasonable at the time. And obviously, they had shuttles to the casino.
We want to stay near Vicksburg but I can't find a place I like. Suggestions?
Please don't go by what the "dealer" said concerning the tow ability of your truck. At this point I don't whether your truck can or can not tow your proposed trailer. But I do know almost all "dealers" have no clue. By the way, when you said dealer did you mean the owner, GM, or salesman? If you meant salesman, take anything he/she says with a large grain of salt. That also goes for salesmen at RV dealers.
I have towed with nothing but 1/2 ton trucks. Previously, I had a regular 1/2 ton, now have a "heavy" 1/2 ton. Experience tells me, you will run out of cargo capacity long before you run out of tow capacity. What you need to do at a minimum is check the yellow sticker on the door jam of your pickup to determine what the cargo capacity of your truck is. Weighing it full of what you plan on carrying in it when on a camping trip is much, much better.
Also, don't go by the tongue weight listed in the brochure. That number is fiction. It's based on the "dry weight" listed in the brochure, and that "dry weight" is almost always fiction. And on top of that, no one goes camping with an empty trailer.
Bottom line, don't assume you can or can not tow that trailer with your current truck, based on all the guesstimated numbers you have so far. You need to get real numbers.
Just got back from the Chevy dealer where I bought the truck. He says 9200 lbs max trailer weight. Asks me the dry weight of the trailer I am considering. I tell him 5,592 lbs. Says no problem. Ask him about payload. Says I'll be fine. The trailer I have been towing for the last 2 yrs with a 15 Silverado(same specs)GVWR 6378 lbs and dry weight of 3965 lbs and tounge weight of 378 lbs has towed with no problems at all. Felt like there was nothing back there.
Because sometimes "attractions" within the National Park also have an entrance fee. Case in point. Within Death Valley NP, Scotty's Castle also requires an entrance fee. So, both my wife and I had to have the Geezer Pass for each of us to get the discount.
Why would a husband and wife "both" need a pass? The pass is good for everyone in the vehicle(at a per vehicle rate park) or up to the driver and 4 passengers in a per person park.
Your map, your rules.
For me, my current map has states on it that I've camped in and driven through in pursuit of camping with my current trailer. For example, I've never spent the night in West Virginia, but I pass through it all the time.
That said, I didn't put my map on the skin of my trailer. I put in on the glass that's in large picture frame. The map is on the outside of the glass. I can hang it in doors or outdoors. Because of this, if I should change trailers, I will take the glass map with me and then add states the new TT has been in.
These Carlisle's are speed rated for 81 mph. These are made in China. As long as Carlisle does a proper job of enforcing QC in their Chinese tire plants, they should be fine. I hope so. Anecdotal evidence might suggest that. I remember, when I first got involved with this board and other TT related boards, there were stories about the poor quality of Carlisle's all the time. That has not been the case with the Radial Trail RH and HD lines.
That was the problem of the early Chinese tires, and why I will not trust any Chinese owned and operated tire plant even now. Goodyear Marathons had that problem. I believe Goodyear just sold, or rented Goodyear molds to Chinese plants, and that was their extent of involvement.
Whats speed rating on them?
I inquired to the dealer on what tires are being put on my coachmen sbx 261bh thats being built.
There are called king somethings... Chinese for sure but he said all coachmen tires are 81 mph rated on thier TT line...
Put on a set of new trailer tires today. I replaced my Maxxis, which were not real old, but did have over 30k miles on them.
I had to replace because one of the Maxxis developed a broken belt, according to the tire store manager.
It all happened two weeks ago when coming back from Florida. I was on US 15 in lower SC because the traffic on I-95 was so horrendous. I was just north of Waltersboro, SC when I needed to make an emergency pit stop. Walking back to the trailer to use the facilities, I noticed the front right tire didn't look right. Closer inspection revealed a bulge in the center of the tread, and worn smooth, and slightly sculpted inside 1/3 of the tread. The outside 1/3 was worn, but not like the inside.
I was very lucky 1) that I needed to stop, and 2) that I noticed it. If that space had been resting on the ground, I would not have notice it. It was going to blow, it was just a matter of when. Even traveling at just 55 mph on a secondary road would have cause huge damage to the trailer.
I replaced with 5 brand new Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires. The spare was original with the trailer, and according to the date on it, was 7 years old.
Now we'll see if the new Carlisle is up to snuff.
I'm happy that I don't need to go to California again to see stuff. Did that in 2013. Only regret was not getting up to Yosemite, but we were in California to early for that.
Going to see Death Valley was more important to me than going to Yosemite. Had to be in Death Valley early in the year.
My 24' Koala is a tad to small to me. If it were about 3 feet longer, with a dinette, I'd be as happy as a clam at high tide.
I do not want anything much over 28' at the max. Don't want anything smaller than my current 24 footer.
When approaching a gas station, I look first for one that has pumps that run parallel to the front of the store. These are harder to find in today's world.
If I have to use pumps that run perpendicular to the store, I try to always use the outside pumps. Much easier to pull away from them with less problems.
If I have to use an inside pump, I look for those that have a decent distance between the pumps and the store.
If I can't find any of the above, I go to another store.
I'm sure mine trade up doesn't much count, but here goes. Went from a 2005 F150 XLT Supercab/6.5 ft box with 5.4 Triton to a HD packaged 2014 F150 XLT Supercab/8 ft box with 3.5L Ecoboost.
Outside of the payment, I've been more than satisfied. And going from a 26 gal tank to the 37 gal tank has been wonderful.
The door sticker on my F150 says 55 psi in front and 65 psi in rear. My OEM tires are LT245/75R17 LRE.
I haven't found the need to change then when towing. It pulls my relatively light weight (4990 gvwr) trailer just fine.
If it fits, get a 3500# jack. Next choice is 3000# jack. I wouldn;t go as low as a 2500# jack.
You use the jack to lift up the tongue and rear of the truck, in order to attach the bars for your WDH bars.
Do I need a 2500 or a 3500# electric jack for my 23' Keystone Bobcat?
One note about the Freedom Express 204RD you mentioned. I drove a couple of hours just to see one. It's new for FE this year.
I loved every thing about it. It was short. Had no slide. Dinette in the rear with extended bench seat on the back wall, made it feel larger than it is. But a deal killer for this trailer was the size of the shower. I could not turn around in it without hitting the faucet. I can't imagine why any designer would put such a small shower pan in this trailer. Either the designer is thin as a straw, or it's just a thrown in because all TT's must have a shower or tub.
That Venture Sonic 210VRD will tow quite nicely behind your new F150 provided you use a correctly sized and adjusted weight distribution hitch such as an Equal-i-zer or Blue Ox Sway Pro. However, a couple of things I notice about that Sonic - it's only 90" wide and has no slide, a show stopper for many these days when most trailers have at least one slide. Secondly, it has a short queen bed when many manufacturers are now finally fitting full length 80" queen beds. Most trailers with just a sofa and no dinette usually come with a supplied stand alone table but we've found them to be way too big, way too heavy, and always in the way so we instead use a couple of light weight TV tables those times we may want to eat inside - much easier. Also, what appears to be not a lot of galley counter space we'd consider a negative as well. You might want to compare this trailer against similar models from other manufacturers, the Coachmen Freedom Express 204RD being an example - a full 8' wide, full length 80" queen bed, and a decent amount of galley counter space. Just food for thought. ;)
Plus one. You must decide what you want to see.
In 2014 we went from Richmond, VA area to Los Angeles and return of course.
I went the southern route, I-20 once we got to Mississippi. Of course, I was off the interstates when ever possible. I'd veer north and south from that general line, depending on what I decided to see.
Many times, if there was a decent US highway running parallel to the interstate, I'd drive the US highway. More and better things to see, and could drive at a perferred pace.
Has anyone traveled East coast to West coast, and if so, what was the route you took. Looking for the best way to go for new RVers
I suggest deciding where you want to visit and that will determine the route you need to take.