The door sticker on my F150 says 55 psi in front and 65 psi in rear. My OEM tires are LT245/75R17 LRE.
I haven't found the need to change then when towing. It pulls my relatively light weight (4990 gvwr) trailer just fine.
If it fits, get a 3500# jack. Next choice is 3000# jack. I wouldn;t go as low as a 2500# jack.
You use the jack to lift up the tongue and rear of the truck, in order to attach the bars for your WDH bars.
Do I need a 2500 or a 3500# electric jack for my 23' Keystone Bobcat?
One note about the Freedom Express 204RD you mentioned. I drove a couple of hours just to see one. It's new for FE this year.
I loved every thing about it. It was short. Had no slide. Dinette in the rear with extended bench seat on the back wall, made it feel larger than it is. But a deal killer for this trailer was the size of the shower. I could not turn around in it without hitting the faucet. I can't imagine why any designer would put such a small shower pan in this trailer. Either the designer is thin as a straw, or it's just a thrown in because all TT's must have a shower or tub.
That Venture Sonic 210VRD will tow quite nicely behind your new F150 provided you use a correctly sized and adjusted weight distribution hitch such as an Equal-i-zer or Blue Ox Sway Pro. However, a couple of things I notice about that Sonic - it's only 90" wide and has no slide, a show stopper for many these days when most trailers have at least one slide. Secondly, it has a short queen bed when many manufacturers are now finally fitting full length 80" queen beds. Most trailers with just a sofa and no dinette usually come with a supplied stand alone table but we've found them to be way too big, way too heavy, and always in the way so we instead use a couple of light weight TV tables those times we may want to eat inside - much easier. Also, what appears to be not a lot of galley counter space we'd consider a negative as well. You might want to compare this trailer against similar models from other manufacturers, the Coachmen Freedom Express 204RD being an example - a full 8' wide, full length 80" queen bed, and a decent amount of galley counter space. Just food for thought. ;)
Plus one. You must decide what you want to see.
In 2014 we went from Richmond, VA area to Los Angeles and return of course.
I went the southern route, I-20 once we got to Mississippi. Of course, I was off the interstates when ever possible. I'd veer north and south from that general line, depending on what I decided to see.
Many times, if there was a decent US highway running parallel to the interstate, I'd drive the US highway. More and better things to see, and could drive at a perferred pace.
Has anyone traveled East coast to West coast, and if so, what was the route you took. Looking for the best way to go for new RVers
I suggest deciding where you want to visit and that will determine the route you need to take.
Nothing wrong with it, if you want to waste money.
Why pay for a night at a campground when all you need is a few hours sleep.
When I'm at my destination, I use campgrounds. When in route and need a few hours sleep, I stop at what every place will let me stay.
I pull in, get something to eat, sleep, and back on the road by 6 am.
Some highway rest areas allow overnighting or possibly Weigh Stations. What's wrong with staying at a campground?
For me, I'd rather have 4x4 and not need it, than to need 4x4 and not have it. I would not have a 4x2 truck.
On at least 2 occasions, I have needed 4x4 to get the trailer where it needed to be. Without 4x4, I would have been stuck, which happened to some folks who did not have 4x4.
It is possible. Can't speak for the roof in question, but it used to happen on the old HI-LO trailers. HI-LO used steel nails to secure the wooden roof panels. They then used aluminum sheets to cover the top. Unfortunately, in HI-Lo's case, the steel nails would react with the aluminum roof and a number of pin holes would develop on the roof. Hard to notice until the water had done it's damage.
water leaking thru an aluminum sheet? Really? all those airplanes sitting/flying outside in the rain must get very heavy with the water load. sure it wasn't leaking at the seams,etc.?
And only for the original owner. If it's sold within 2 years, the second buyer gets no warranty, what so ever.
That's why any warranty pass 2 years isn't worth much.
Exactly bumpy. The fact is that rubber or tpo roofs have a finite life. Period. They will eventually deteriorate to the point that you can't coat or seal them, etc. Is aluminum perfect? No it's not. It requires you to check/maintain your calk joints twice per year. If you do that it'll stay leak free. The roof on my Layton is one piece and remains uncoated and looks great yet.
I inquired at Jayco one time about ordering a tt with an aluminum roof and was told it was not possible. Tpo/rubber roofs come with a 12yr warranty. When that's up, the roof is about shot and the cost to install a new one is more than the trailer is worth.
and that 12 year "warranty" is for the materials only. not to remove and replace.
My weights will not vary much. I carry the same cargo in the bed, always. The only variable would be what's in the trailer. Almost always I have the same amount of clothes, food supplies, etc. The number of cans of food may vary by a few cans, and bottles or cans of beverages will vary by 3 or 4. I may through in an extra bag of chips.
The tv, which I take out at the end of the year, weights the same on every trip.
Now, currently, I'm in the planning stages for a big trip out to Utah, Yellowstone, and the Black Hills. For this trip, I will be the heaviest that I ever weight simply because we will be gone so long. But even here, I might weight a couple of hundred pounds heavier than normal.
All that said, once I load it in the spring, I run it across the scales to double check. But I don't continue to cross the scales every trip out.
Good post and makes my point with friends why it's better to go by the GVWR number and not the dry weight.
I guess it just depends.
No guessing needed, of course "it just depends" - not on GVWR but on the trailer's CCC. Use GVWR as a guide to what you can tow in a situation where CCC is so great there's no way GVW will come anywhere near to the trailer's GVWR and you could easily fool yourself into believing you need to spend a substantial amount upgrading to a 3/4 ton which in reality you don't need. :M It's not GVWR that matters but anticipated GVW, loaded and ready to camp ... and that can easily be estimated by adding anticipated cargo weight to the trailer's stickered dry weight, the result often being not anywhere near it's GVWR. :RI am always some what amazed at this thinking.
It seems that there are some here that think they always weigh the same for every trip.. My weight varies. A lot. Probably several thousand pounds depending on what/where I am going and doing.
Of course I may be an extreme case. But I am willing to wager that many peoples weights (that are trying to cut it close with this approach) also vary enough to put them over their TVs ratings at times.
TTs are a lot like people in that they tend to gain weight over time.
The difference is that people try to rationalize their way around the fact.
That's interesting. I've never seen that before. Every manufacturer that I've seen plays games with the brochure "dry" weight.
Here is how they do it. The brochure listed dry weight is without any options, period. I presume they build the first one without any options, then weight it. That's the brochure weight. However, all trailers I've seen have a list of "mandatory" options. "Mandatory" options are in reality part of the dry weight, but are not included in the dry weight because they are "options".
Good post and makes my point with friends why it's better to go by the GVWR number and not the dry weight. Your numbers are a perfect example. By doing so you can ensure you have some margin to play with hopefully and not be right up against your limits.
To each their own though.I guess it just depends. My trailer's listed brochure weight was 6,210, the sticker weight as shipped from the factory is 6,260, and as it rolls down the road I am at least 800 lbs. less then it's GVWR.
I understand it's better to leave the dog behind, and for you it's pretty easy to do that. Put the dog in a kennel for a week, and make a quick run to Yellowstone.
Unfortunately, for me, it is not that easy. I can't leave my dog in a kennel for a month and 182. That's how long we will be away from home on our trip this year, which includes a week in Yellowstone.
We must leave our dog in the trailer. I also understand it limits the amount of time we can stay away during the day.
Do yourself a favor, don't take dogs into Yellowstone. If left at camp, they will be alone for most of the day. If brought in a vehicle to explore, they won't be allowed on the trails and will hinder your ability to see the attractions - even the easy roadside ones.
We camp in Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks often and leave our dogs at home. It makes for a more pleasant experience. Like when we leave our teenagers at home!
Or is it a place to avoid?
I may be going up from the south of Utah to the Grand Tetons in Wyoming which will place me in the vicinity of Salt Lake City.
Just wondering if its best to drive around it, or is there any sites worth seeing in the city?
I will replace my current Maxxis tires with either Maxxis or the Carlisle HD's. I've read of no problems yet with the Carlisle HD's, and with their previous rep, I'm sure there would be lots of comments if folks were experiencing any major problems with them.
I would not be opposed to the new Goodyear Endurance ST tire, depending on reports between now and when I must replace.
I hope 70 isn't the limit. Otherwise this year will be my last.
Seriously, age itself shouldn't be the limiter. The limiter should be physical and mental condition. Some 80 year olds are probably younger mentally and physically than some 70 year olds.
I do believe that at some age, maybe 70, folks who drive any vehicle should go in for frequent written and driving tests. Maybe like every 2 years.
Physical and mental abilities can start to fall off much faster at that age.
What you say is true. However, I would not want to go fix something that should have been included at the factory. Also, if a manufacturer is pinching pennies WRT the Tub/shower surround, then I strongly suspect they are pinching pennies in other areas that will rule out getting that particular trailer.
For me it's just cheap penny pinching. That's a trailer that would be crossed off my list as soon as I saw it.
Of course it's cost control on the part of the manufacturer but if any trailer otherwise fits one's needs automatically "crossing it off one's list" would indeed be silly since it's so easy to simply add a surround yourself.
For me it's just cheap penny pinching. That's a trailer that would be crossed off my list as soon as I saw it.
I looked at a couple of 2017 Trailers recently and noticed that the showers don't have a surround on them. The walls in the shower look just like the walls in the trailer....What's up with that? I was thinking that if I got one I would add a surround, you think it would be easier for cleaning??????