The sun's UV rays are hard on rubber as evidenced by the need to keep tires covered while setting in the sun. I apply a UV protectant twice a year to the rubber roof and after 8 years it looks like new.
Which is fine. But there is a decided difference in the rubber used for tires and the rubber used for roofs.
CLEANING AND MAINTAINING THE ALPHA SYSTEMS ROOF MEMBRANE
Proper care and maintenance of your Alpha Systems roof membrane is critical for years of trouble-free performance. Normal maintenance is simple, easy and requires no special materials.
Periodic cleaning (three to four times per year) is the primary maintenance required. Alpha Systems recommends using a non-abrasive household cleaner, such as Top Job or Spic-N-Span, and a medium-bristled scrub brush. Do not use any harsh or highly-abrasive products during cleaning. When finished cleaning, remember to thoroughly rinse the roof and sidewalls in order to remove any soap residue and to prevent streaking. CARE SHOULD BE EXERCISED WHEN WORKING ON TOP OF YOUR UNIT! THE ROOF MAY BECOME SLIPPERY WHEN WET.
DO NOT USE ACETONE, OR ANY OTHER PRODUCTS CONTAINING PETROLEUM DISTILLATES, ON THE ALPHA SYSTEMS ROOF MEMBRANE. USE OF THESE PRODUCTS WILL DAMAGE THE MEMBRANE.
Periodic inspection of the roof, during cleaning, is highly recommended. Check the membrane for signs of damage. Check the caulk/lap sealant used in all termination areas, and around all accessories and fasteners, for signs of cracking or voids.
The roof membrane can be cut or punctured by sharp objects. Caution should be used when placing any articles on the roof. If damage does occur, the membrane can usually be patched.
Alpha's membrane is quite inert and will resist weathering well. It does not require the periodic application of products to protect it from ultra-violet light or ozone. In fact, these products can often cause damage to the roof membrane.
If you have any questions, please contact Alpha Systems at 574-295-5206.
I pulled a 24 ft bumper to ball trailer from Virginia to Los Angeles, CA with a 2005 F150 Supercab w/ 5.4, 3.73 rear w/ tow pkg earlier this year. I averaged 10.xx for the trip. One time I hit 12, but I was running on a flat highway with a trailing wind. I'd drop to 9.xx if most of the tank was used climbing hills and mountains.
On the back roads I'd drive between 55 & 60. When I was on interstates, I'd drive between 60 and 65.
Is this a good road pulling a 24ft trailer with a F150 5.4L 4x4 pickup? I like to avoid interstates when ever possible.
I would be driving it in the middle of May. Or due to possible snow, is it advisable to go down I-25 to I-40 and then up to Monument from AZ?
That's too hot for me.
DW really, really wants to be in Omaha, NE the first weekend in May. But considering all the responses so far, mid May seems a little early for the northern plains and especially Yellowstone/Grand Tetons. So, I'm now considering routes from Omaha down to Monument Valley and slowly working my way backwards from my original trip route.
Any preferred routes from Omaha to Monument Valley that uses interstates as little as possible. I like to drive the blue highways as much as possible.
To answer your question, If you consider mid 90's to 100 degrees plus too hot, then yes. It will be right at, or over 100 in Moab, and Monument Valley in June.
I'll be in Yellowstone near the end of May. I'll be in Omaha, NE the first weekend of May. Then we are heading to Yellowstone by way of the Blackhills, the Badlands, Little Bighorn, and other places.
Forgot to add, Grand Tetons, I guess you live in deep snow, so don't mind campgrounds with 5 or more feet of snow? If you are planning on visiting Grand Tetons first, expect that early May there can be deep snow there.
Check Weather.com first!
My buddy was working in Yellowstone in 92, 93 and 94. When I saw him in 94, he said that 92 was great, but in 93 they plowed out the campsites with a snow thrower, and piled it up high between the sites, so that he could look out his fifth wheel bedroom window and it was that high the first weekend of May. You might consider reversing the trip timing or direction.
A friend of mine recently bought a used 34ft Airstream. It has 30 amp service but has a second AC. The second AC has it's own dedicated 20 amp cord to plug into a pedestal.
Some folks will install the second A/C unit on a separate 120VAC 20AMP circuit that they can plug into the camp ground 20AMP Service which most have...
We use the 20AMP Service pedestal all the time with our trips. In the winter months this runs our extra oil-filled heaters...
The 20AMp Service from the pedestal does not take away from your 30AMP service. It has its own circuit breaker on the campground pedestal.
If you can't find a 20AMp service receptacle to plug-in to then go ahead and plug into one of your 15AMP receptacles and turn off alot of other things if you have too allowing you to run both air conditioners.
There is also another solution which is starting to become popular and that is one of those portable air conditioners. They just plug into your 15 AMP receptacle and need to have a close by window for the exhaust to go thru. These A/C units can be a 5K or bigger but are great for one room like the bed room...
A couple of choices here...
Something to also consider is getting off I-295 on US301. Go north on US301 until you get to Bowling Green, then jump over to I-95. Stay on I-95 until you get to US17 just north of Fredricksburg.
my next trip out that's going to be my plan.....figure out some alternate routes so we don't have to fight traffic for hours. Sounds like you have it figured out. I would want to avoid 95 too though.
Late May or very early June, we plan on leaving the Grand Tetons. Right now I thinking about driving down through Moab, Utah and visiting Arches and Canyon Lands National Parks. From here heading down to Monument Valley.
Has it gotten too hot to travel around Monument Valley in early June?
I'm planning our big trip through the northern plains to Yellowstone.
Normally this is no big deal for me since we usually don't make reservations, and just go with the flow. However, since we must have reservations for Yellowstone, it isn't possible on this trip.
We plan on visiting several national and state parks before getting to Yellowstone. I'd like to have some idea how much time to allow for each of these places.
We will be leaving from Omaha Nebraska on the 5th of May next year. We plan on stopping at Badlands National Park, Hot Springs, SD, Custer State Park (including both Mt Rushmore & Crazy Horse Memorial), and maybe an overnighter at Deadwood. Then we'll stop at Little Bighorn National Battlefield Monument in Montana. After leaving Little Bighorn, we'll stop in Cody, Wyoming before heading into Yellowstone. We plan on staying at Fishing Bridge while there.
I'm thinking up to 4 days in Yellowstone, and a day or two in Grand Tetons.
One thing to keep in mind. We will not be doing a lot of hiking. Easy trails we can do if they aren't extra long. Medium to hard trails we will not do at all.
Long story short, I'm trying to get a feel of how long to allow between the first weekend in May in Omaha and arranging reservations at Yellowstone.
Speaking of Bear Tooth Highway. I know its one of, if not the most scenic highways in America. Does it encompass sheer drops of hundreds or thousands of feet, with no shoulder and no guard rail?
Ditto on staying IN THE PARK. Yellowstone is HUGE and encompasses many miles. Don't waste any precious time having to drive into the park every day. Make sure on one of your days you drive the Beartooth Highway! Take your time and enjoy.
The maker of the EPDM roof on my trailer, Alpha Systems, does not recommend the use of a protectant. It says only to wash it with with Top Job or Spic N Span 3 or so times per year.
Mequiar's Cleaner Wax for RV. Been using it for years. Really cleans as it waxes. Do it twice a year. Meguiar's M5032 Marine/RV One Step Cleaner Wax - Liquid - 32 oz. by Meguiar's
Thanks. What type of protectant do you use on the EPDM rubber roof coating?
Seems like you are going backwards to most people. If it were me, I'd spend winter on the Gulf Cost, and summer in Colorado.
As for your TT and Pickup combo, the F150 eco boost is a very good platform. However, you must be very cognizant of the payload of the F150. I'm sure the Eco-Boost has a higher payload than my 2005 F150 w/ 5.4L Triton, but you need to subtract every pound from the payload limit. That includes you, the dog, any personal stuff in the truck, a hard top cap, or hard bed cover. cover, the weight od the hitch head, plus the tongue weight of what ever trailer.
Absent accurate hard numbers, I'd use 13% of the GVWR od any trailer you are considering. Subtract this number from the payload figure also. The payload number of your truck is on on a yellow sticker on the door jam on the driver side door.
We averaged $23.45 per night on our recent journey across America. We were on the road for 44 days. We stayed in a variety of different places, ranging from Walmart/Flying J/BLM/National Parks/ and regular private campgrounds. Off the top of my head, I'd say 75% of our time was in private camp grounds. The private camp grounds includes a week in City of LA campsites. These were $55 per night.
Do you need a genny for AC @ 8000 to 10000 ft?
We replaced our generator this spring and after checking with the companies, rental places and asking on line, I found that a 2800w generator is limited to around 8000-8500 ft when running the A/C. My 3500/4000 will do it at 10,000 ft but only if the converter is off.
Any generator looses 3.5% per 1000 ft and even more when it's hot. That's a easy 20% loss at a mile high and 40% where I camp. I'm pretty sure the Yamaha 4500 was the smallest inverter I could use.
My experience on our cross country trip earlier this year was across the board.
Some campgrounds had unlimited wifi throughout the campground. Others could only supply wifi in a central area. Still others had nothing any where.
At a KOA in Fredricksburg, TX, the wifi was down all 3 nights we were there.
I did a blog while on our 7900 mile trip to the Pacific ocean and return. Sometimes I'd be off line 5 or 6 days before getting wifi again.
All things considered, I don't really consider camping as a cheaper alternative then staying in a hotel. It's just different. You can't roast marshmallows over a campfire in the lobby of the Holiday Inn.
Was that why they asked that I leave.
Great advice. That's pretty much the same for any 1/2 ton. I know with my F150 I was running out of cargo capacity long before I was running out of "tow capacity".
Forget the "tow rating" of your Yukon....it's the payload capacity that you should be concerned with and keep in mind when buying a new TT. Tow ratings are a fictitious figure made up by the mfg to enhance the selling advertisements. You will max out your payload capacity long before you reach the max tow rating.
Best bet would be to get your Yukon weighed and subtract that weight from the posted GVWR of the SUV to get your "actual" payload capacity. Anything and everything you put in or on your Yukon will go against that payload capacity....including the tongue weight and the W/D unit of the trailer, you, passengers, equipment, tools, etc.
Typically, the mfg'ers "dry" weight of the trailer (including its dry tongue weight") will be much less than actual figures. Therefore, it's usually an accepted process to use 12% to 15% of the trailer's GVWR to come up with a max tongue weight that should be used in figuring it's effect on the tow vehicle.
Good luck in your quest.