Couldn't have been US11 in Durham. US 11, like you said paralles I-81 until it gets to Tennessee. Eventually, in TN, US 11 parallels I-59 all the way to NOLA.
You may have picked us US 501 which goes slightly northwest and eventually crosses US 11 in the Shenandoah Valley.
I don't know that it is possible without touching some interstate.
We just got back in, picked up US 11 in I think Durham NC and took it and 15 to upstate NY. The only part that really sucked was from the VA/WVa line to Hagarstown MD the speed limit never breaks 45mph.
We found it a very pleasant drive for the most part. 11 parallels 81, often so close that both our GPS and S&T would jump the route onto 81.
We have a truck and 25Ft trailer and had no issues in towns we passed though.
Agree with this route. We did it in 2014, only in reverse. Drove up from Ft Stockton in Texas to Carlsbad on US285. Then up to Roswell and across US70 by Ruidoso and to Tularosa on US54. Drove south on US54/US70 to just below White Sands and continued on US70 to Las Cruses.
Was a great drive pulling our travel trailer.
You might consider US 70 to Ruidoso to Roswell and US 285 to Artesia and Carlsbad if you want to avoid El Paso. That route is fine for towing. And if you happen to be going to the Carlsbad KOA it is between Artesia and Carlsbad.
I knew why he wasn't active on the boards any longer, but I didn't think it was my place to say why.
In 2014, I was PMing him a lot during the time I was considering getting a F150 Ecoboost. I knew he had one of the first ones, and wanted to tape into his experience with Eco motor.
He mentioned to me then that his wife had passed away, and he had lost a lot of his enthusiasm for RVing, which I understood at the time.
We never had reservations over a day ahead during our cross country in 2014. Usually, DW would call ahead the day of our arrival to secure a site.
The biggest reason for this was our route and travel times were always subject to change. I didn't want to be tied to being in a particular place at such and such a date.
The only time we called ahead a week in advance was when we were staying in Los Angeles. There is a state owned, LA county run RV park right on the beach in LA called Dockweiler. This is one of two RV parks in LA that we made advance reservations. The other was Balboa RV Park in Van Nuys.
Otherwise, it was the day of arrival when we called ahead to make reservations.
Americamps off I95 at the Lewistown exit, is the best campground to use if you are in need of a overnight stopover.
The race track rv parking isn't open except for race weekends.
Anyone have any knowledge or know anything about camping at the Raceway during non event weekends? We are looking for a spot closer to downtown Richmond for an overnight stopover.
Not at the Americamps RV Park where I fill my propane bottles. Americamps is just off I-95 at the Lewis Town exit in Virginia. They charge me by the gallon.
convert to gal as a habit b'cuz no one charges me per pound only $ per gallon :)...Out west it's gallons. I think east is lbs. Nobody sells gasoline by the pound, except maybe at airports.
Very happy with mine. Bought my 2012 used in 2013. In 2014 pulled it on a 7,900+ mile cross country trip from VA to the Pacific Ocean in Los Angeles. Never gave us a hint of a problem.
If I can sell mine, I'm going to get another one, only just a little larger. If I don't sell it, I'm fine with that also.
That would be 48 contiguous states, but I understand your meaning. There is the broad Pacific ocean between the contiguous states and Hawaii, and a place called Canada :) between the lower 48 and Alaska.
Here you go Soundguy. Let me know what you think. I'll order today if it's legit
Progressive Industries PT30C 30 Amp Portable Electrical Management System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AL23TC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_Oa3hxb1EX5GH4
I don't see why it's not legit as the warranty info does say lifetime, just as it should for all Progressive Industries EMS units. That said, $245 US is $310 Cdn and shipping as far as I can tell is only free within the 50 contiguous states ... I'd be awfully cautious about not only additional freight charges to get it from the border to you but also import and brokerage charges which can be substantial. This is one of several reasons I bought a Progressive hard wire model instead of the portable version as the hard wire is field serviceable, meaning if I ever need to repair it Progressive will simply mail me the parts via USPS and I won't have to deal with any additional charges. Not an issue for those in the US but for those of us here in Canada it is, IMO.
Yesterday, coming back from a weekend outing at a spring football game, I went by the CAT scale at the local truck stop. I didn't have a chance to weight it before leaving. The FW tank was only 2/3 full, but the BW tank hadn't been dumped yet. Those weights offset each other, except for weight distribution. FW tank is slightly forward of the axles, and the BW tank is slightly behind the axles.
In any case, I went across the scales got my weight, and then swing around in order to go accross the scales with the WDH bars disconnected. I wanted to get a general idea of the tongue weight.
Cognizant of the fact what I'm doing is recreational, but what the truckers are doing is their lively hood, I didn't want to be in the way any more that possible. So I ran out, put the power hitch down in order to release the bars. I quickly got back in the truck and pulled to go on the scales again.
It didn't want to go, and I heard a scraping noise. Yep, I forgot to lift the hitch. Now, I had destroyed the post assembly on my Barker. Even worse, I couldn't move it enough to get it off the ground.
Finally two truckers came over, and helped me out. Through their brute force they were able to pull the bent post up through the hitch hole. They used some straps and bungie cords I carry to tie it into position so I could drive home, which is fortunately just 4 miles away.
In any event, these are the weights I got, and I'm well below all the top limits. My truck has a 4050# front axle and a 4800# rear axle and a GVWR of 8200# with a CCC of 2286#. and a GCWR of 17,100#
With out the trailer (weighted it before I left) but loaded with all the stuff I carry, including tools, 2 generators, 13.5 gallons of gasoline, a 2.25 ton floor jack, and small air compressor, but without DW who weighs 125#. The front axle weighed 3620#, rear axle was 3280# with total weight of 6900#. The combined truck/trailer with equalizer hitch was FA 3480#, RA 4040#, trailer 4440# for a total combined weight of 11,960#.
I still have to figure out what my tongue weight is.
But there is a hell of a lot of difference in what you are pulling, and what the OP is pulling.
If I were pulling what you are pulling, I'd like to have XPS ribs also.
But the OP is pulling roughly what I'm pulling, a 4950 GVWR TT. The ST tires I have, ST205/75R Maxxis, provide me with about a 25% margin of error. I feel I'm good as long as I don't run them under inflated, or sustained speeds at over 65 mph.
The OP shouldn't need E rated tires for his trailer.
ST Tires might get you 20 to 30,000 miles but thats not enough for me. I've been RVing for over 30 years and I would run nothing less than Michelin XPS RIB tires on my 41 foot 5ver. I have almost 60,000 miles on them and still have probably another 20,000 or so left on the tread. The good thing about these tires are they are re-groovable which means at least another 10,000 miles. They are 14 ply sidewall and made from the same rubber compound as over the road commercial truck tires. They are not cheap but after buying 3 sets of ST tires which might get you this kind of mileage combined you actually come out cheaper buying the Michelin tires. Thats just my opinion but if your gonna invest in a nice RV then don't go cheap on the tires that you depend on to get you where your going.
I will average at least 4k miles per year, the bulk of it in the fall during college football season.
Also, in 2014, we put over 7800 miles on the trailer during one cross country trip.
My trailer only weights 4950# loaded and has ST205/75R14 tires. I put 4 new Maxxis on it in July 2013. Knock on wood, I haven't had any trouble with them, and they still do not show much if any tread wear.
At this point, I'd put 4 more on the trailer. But I wouldn't be afraid of the new Carlisle tire.
Understand about wanting to extend the camping time as much as possible. On my next birthday, I will have completed 69 revolutions around the sun.
As for your question, as noted earlier, you will need to check out the strength of your trailer frame. It may, or may not (more than likely) be able to support leveling jacks on each corner.
I don't think most trailers have a strong enough frame to allow leveling the TT at the corners.
You must check out the trailer chassis very closely.
Just for the record, I have back issues and an operation last June. I am 67 and want to continue camping as log as I can as I have a severe cast of "Hitch Itch". Anything I can to Keep camping and diminish pain is well worth all the money in the world.
Are there any creditable reviews for the EZ- Filp system or any other TT leveler system?
I use one when plugged into an electric pedestal at a RV park. I consider mine insurance. Just like an insurance policy, if you never need it, you could view it as a waste. But if you ever need it, you'll be more than happy with the price you paid for the surge/low voltage protection.
I have never used one but was wondering if I should be or are they a waste of money.
Normally, I use the yellow three level ramp. Only put it under one tire, and either back on it, or pull forward on it, depending on the situation.
I also have two bags of 10 of the yellow Camco "lego" blocks, but normally just use them as support for the stabilizer jacks.
The best policy, IMO, is what's been mentioned already. If hooked to city water, cut it off at the outside faucet if leaving the RV. If you're using your fresh water tank, cut the pump off when ever water is no longer needed.
As for the waste tanks, I always keep both tanks closed. I want full, or nearly full tanks, when ever I dump. Let both acculumate as much as possible. When my black is full, I make sure the gray is at least 2/3 or more full. I then dump the black tank, and then dump the gray. I then leave both closed until I need to dump again.
I winterized by using forced air to blow out the system. We had no power outages that would have resulted in a major freezing period.
If we had had a long period of no electricity, we would have moved out to the trailer anyway, and used the propane furnace to keep ourselves warm.
Glad to hear the fix was simple.
Sounds like it froze to me as well.
When you mention you kept the heater hooked up all winter are you referring to an electric heater. A minor power outage could have been the culprit.
I use space heaters myself to extend the season. They are not foolproof and certainly no substitute for winterizing.
I suppose it's possible it froze but I don't think so. As far as I know, it never got below 32 in side. We kept a heater hooked up all winter, and this winter wasn't as bad as last winter. I know the natural gas usage this year is way down from the same period last winter.
What I found interesting was no O ring was to be found on the water valve I removed. There should have been one, and I would think there was one, but I didn't see it upon removal of the module.
The new module had a red O ring.
The typical failure of the vacuum breaker is a small amount of water seeping past the o rings in the valve and making it past the vacuum inlet. This results is a little water making it to the floor after filling the bowl and not so much from a quick flush. The fact yours sprayed water once put back in operation is most likely from freezing and cracking.
I did have to replace mine twice but the last one has been in there several years. In talking with Thetford several years ago when replacing for the second time I was told a change was made to address the problem. Since then it has been fine. Either way this does not seem to be what your problem was. Pink stuff is your friend.