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RE: Dual Battery Chargers
The Peukert effect can somewhat effect battery longevity but more important is the total discharge percentage that your batteries attain before at least a partial recharge. If you boondock a lot and consistently discharge to 20% SOC than you need to add more battery capacity or your battery replacement cost will be much higher than the cost of a larger bank. On the other hand if you only occasionally need to run down to 20%, there is probably no point in adding more batteries.
As far as multi stage chargers using current for anything other than there max output, no RV charger(not stand alone) on the market does it that I'm aware of. Why they don't do it is simple, they can't because none of them have a shunt on the battery so they don't know where the current is going...RV or battery.
The other interesting point brought up is will 13.8 volts fully charge a battery and the answer is under most cases yes but if it below freezing than probably not. Charge voltage is totally temperature dependent.
And finally back to the OP's ?. Heck ya, run both chargers when you are boondocking and want to minimize gen runtime. However the first thing I would recommend is you install is a battery monitor or at the minimum a current meter. You really need to know that charge current in order to make an informed decision. In my book a battery monitor is one of the most important tools you can have on an RV.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/26/09 02:36am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Big Charger, Small Generator
Your numbers (as well as others) just don't add up. The gen is RATED at 300W, 350W is PEAK power. The converter has an efficiency of 85% and form factor of 0.7.
Max current = P * efficiency * form factor / V_converter
Max current = 300W * 0.85 * 0.7 / 14.2V
Max current = 12.6A
There's no point in using this converter. It would be a hassle to always pre-charge the batteries using other methods before you can use the PD9245. I would use a 10A or perhaps 15A battery charger. I think you'll get a much faster charge. After all, you want to minimize gen time.
Sal
So I could program it to limit charge rate to 21 amps, and stay below the 350 watt output rating.
Sal, I know you love formulas but they don't always work. In this case as the gen voltage gets dragged down the converter output amps go right down with it. That and the the bad sine wave further reduce the output. On my 1000 watt you can't overload it as it just reduces its speed until the voltage drops enough that the converter can no longer put out enough amps to overload it. Of course you better not be running anything else as the voltage is sometimes below 100. It's pretty crude but it does work. Of course this same scenario on an inverter gen will result in an overload just as your formula suggests.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/14/09 12:59pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: converter/battery
Gees, disconnect the battery and check the converter output, If it has no output check the fuses at the converter. They will generally only blow when you hook the battery up back wards but a severely shorted battery will also do it.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/14/09 12:46pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Big Charger, Small Generator
If I were in your situation I'd just try it and see what happens. You've got 2 things in your favor here: (1) With the EX350's MSW output the PD9245 will likely not be able to develop its full output power, and (2) If you've got the pendant on the 9245, you can kick it out of boost mode before powering it with the generator. But because of the MSW power, there's a chance it will work even in boost mode. I think Wayne is right here. I'm not sure if the EX is a MSW but even a standard gen will get its voltage dragged down so much and the sine wave is so poor that it will limit the output current of the converter. I have an old Kawasaki 1000 watt and it will run my 9180 with no problem, of course it will only put out 35 amps.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/13/09 09:02pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Help - slides stuck extended
It was a piece of left over construction 12ga wire that I picked up some time back. It's stranded and not solid but fairly stiff. Each end has a non insulated alligator clip - insulated would be better...
You wouldn't want to use that on a hydraulic pump, too much juice. A jumper cable would work.
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Hurricaner
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11/13/09 08:34pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How do I splice into a propane line?
I found that high pressure lines are in fact used in some RVs so that is what I based my previous statement on. However, the trouble of running a high pressure line is not worth it to me in this case and I will be exchanging this heater for the Big Buddy which also has a low pressure connection.
Not by any manufacture that I know of. All RV appliances are low pressure propane, no exceptions.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/13/09 06:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How do I splice into a propane line?
Thanks for all the warnings, glad someone is looking out for me. Let me rephrase the question then:
What is the best way to supply propane to the catalytic heater inside the camper?Install a flare tee as was said earlier then attach the appropriate length premade hose. A propane dealer can make the hose and you will need a flaring tool to make the flares.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/13/09 01:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Thanks in advance!! 12v power question
This is a no brainier. You can run a #8 power cord protected by a 15 amp circuit and that will supply plenty of power for basic needs. You will still need one small battery as the magnetek needs a battery for filtering but this is going to be far cheaper than the alternative. If you want to do it right run a 30 amp 120 volt circuit with #4 copper or #2 aluminum. That should run everything in the RV provided it is a 30 amp RV.
Don't replace the reefer those small units only use 1 to 2 amps when running and gas reefers start at a grand.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/12/09 03:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Thanks in advance!! 12v power question
If you are going to full time on batteries you need solar and a gen backup. You cannot maintain batteries with a gen unless you want to run it 8 hours a day. If you don't fully charge those batteries at least once a week than you will be replacing them in 6 months.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/12/09 10:50am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Converter Question
Disconnect the battery negative lead at the battery. Now turn on your lights and other 12 volt devices, if everything functions normally than your battery is toast, if not it is time for a new converter.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/04/09 11:28am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Magnetek converter charger issue
I think that it's the battery charger cutting in and out. If the batteries are being charged the DC volts are higher than when the batteries are fully charged and the charged has switched off.
DustyAll RV converters that charge do it 100% of the time, none of them cut off unless something is wrong. Check your batteries.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/04/09 11:23am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electric Shock
Ok all you electrical people or think you are. My trailer would tingle you when pluged into 30amp. shore service with a good ground and trip the 50amp. circuit breaker at the shore pedestal instantly when turned on. What is the problem? Oh yes the wiring was pinched between frame and floor with the two hot leads touching each other and just a stray strand touching the frame. Not enough current flow to trip 30amp. shore power c/b, but get you bit if bare footed and steped on steps and ground or touched frame laying on ground. A Keystone dealer fixed under warrenty after they first told me they did't find problem. They only checked it at 30amp. service not the 50amp. problem as I told them. After a very serious face to face chat they pluged into a 50amp. service and found problem real fast. I don't think you can get a 2 pole 50amp. Gfi circuit breaker and 30amp. circuit breakers are expensive but availabe. 30 amp. gfi recepticals are not made also. This is my experince with a tingling frame. Just grounding does not make all well.
Your example is an exception to what we see on this site about 10-15 times per year, that is being an floating AC ground "tingle". Your circumstances were obviously much more serious in that the short was able to generate a voltage on the chassis with a ground path intact, weak maybe, but intact to some degree. I too would question the integrity of the ground. Normally a stray strand that goes to ground will instantly disintegrate and either clear the short or make a bigger one.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/04/09 11:18am |
Tech Issues
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RE: GFI not tripping
deleted, double post.
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Hurricaner
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11/03/09 09:25pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: GFI not tripping
I want to thank all of you! Unfortunately it was not as simple as I had thought. The ground is fine and the load and line were not reversed it is something down stream that is affecting the GFI. There were wires there we had no idea what they belonged to. I had to have an electrician over this eve. and the problem will be corrected when he returns, he only had a few minutes to spend so he is rewiring the circuit tomorrow.
Again thanks!If it is something downstream the GFI has to be already tripped or the test button would work.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/03/09 09:24pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: No lights inside Fema Trailer
There is no battery in the box behind the propane tanks. There are cables to hook one up but no battery. There are no holding tanks at all. It is described as a park model, but apparently it does require a battery. I assume all the lights overhead are going to be 12volt and they will require a battery. Hopefully, I can get one put in today and see if everything works. If not then I can troubleshoot with all the ideas that you guys gave me.
ThanksIt does not require a battery, however it is possible the converter could be disconnected at the battery. You need to find the converter and see if it is working, you are probably just wasting your time hooking up a battery as was said earlier the fema trailers don't require a battery to operate the 12 volt stuff and most RVs don't. If it does work when you put in the battery it won't for long because there is nothing charging the battery.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/03/09 10:27am |
Tech Issues
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RE: GFI not tripping
Just checked here http://www.rhtubs.com/GFCI/GFCI.htm and I see how they do it without the ground. The test button is tied to the neutral before the gfi so it leaks the current to the neutral before the gfi sees it and fools the gfi that there is an actual ground fault. So... no ground is necessary for the GFI test circuit.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/03/09 08:56am |
Tech Issues
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RE: GFI not tripping
I have understood that a GFI works differently. It measures current flow in the black wire and also in the white wire. If they are not identical, it is assumed that somewhere along the line there's a 'leak' and something (like a person) is conducting current to ground. It then shuts the power off. You do not need a ground connection at the GFI. (unless it and the following outlets have a ground pin) In fact, you can buy a GFI outlet without a connection for ground. Some older homes with no ground pin at the outlets are thusly GFI protected.
You need a ground for the test button to work. Other wise there's no place for the stray current to go to create an unbalance.
DustyNever really thought about that before but I think you might be right. The GFI will work without a ground but I don't see how the test button could function because as you say there is nothing to leak the current to.
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Hurricaner
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11/03/09 08:25am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Age of RV and Electronics using SHORE POWER-THANKS FOR THE HELP!
what laws are broken if you do some rewiring of a RV?
bumpyYou never violate the law by doing wiring, you might violate a city code or an ordnance but never is it against the law. Now that's not to say you couldn't be charged for negligence but that's a whole other thread!
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/02/09 04:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Xantrex Inverter Repair
At the price of inverter/chargers on the market today, I would be tempted to just buy a new one.
A replacement is $2355.00. I think I would like to explore a repair option.
Thanks,
MattThe 458 is an antique. You can probably pick up a used one on ebay for under 300 bucks. Here is a new 2000 watt for 1160 http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/freedom_inverter_charger.html
Here is a used 2000 for 550 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Xantrex-Freedom-458-2000-Watt-Inverter-Charger-100AMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45eef71be9QQitemZ300361915369QQptZMotorsQ5fRVQ5fTrailerQ5fCamperQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/02/09 12:24pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing Engine
I believe it has to come out from below even if you have to remove the axle.
Sam
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Hurricaner
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11/02/09 08:33am |
Tech Issues
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