RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'RLS7201' found 239 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 12  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Can't find LED with a color temp you like?

Can someone experienced, tell me the Kelvin temp necessary to achieve artificial sunlight color equal to high noon in West Texas? Actually this is meant as a serious question. Pure, natural sunlight. Would it take the necessity of using a grow light? Mex, I worked in the ink and coating industry for several years and we considered 5000K as day light and used 5000K florescent tubes for our labs and color matching booths. Richard
RLS7201 04/17/15 08:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

If the AIR (Air Injection Reactor) is blowing into the exhaust manifolds, you should have the EFI manifolds. Older carb engines had the AIR blowing into the heads. Richard
RLS7201 04/12/15 08:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

This is the head Ford shipped your chassis with. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GvhEZ1EfRDmki7IfuxMwDkCOElbVVoCCw5UClSILFQ=w249-h187-p-no height=300 width=200 Richard
RLS7201 04/12/15 02:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

The correct cylinder head part number for your year MH is F3TE. The number is to be found between the two center exhaust ports on the head. E7TE heads will work but are for 1988-1993 EFI 460s. F3TE heads have bigger valves and redesigned ports. NO other part numbers will work correctly with your EFI manifolds. Richard
RLS7201 04/12/15 09:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

Steve, I don't have a HR. I have a 460 Bounder on a F53 chassis. Our chassis are identical. The chassis measurements that I offered are the same for both of our MHs. Those with 454s offering advice have not considered the fact that our 460 engines are taller and wider. So we have more of a challenge. Chevy 454 Block https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hWhv7bLfPZOxuCZOfDTap_dt4qq-YezOjbBIyZeaywU=w276-h207-p-no height=300 width=200 Ford 460 block https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/55HFBZ67EboLXUI7O_mHiXerXWYZJLttBN420u48fp4=w278-h207-p-no height=300 width=200 Hopefully you'll post pictures of your engine R&R. Then I'll know what challenges I'll face when I get ready to install my 528 stroker this fall. GRIN Richard
RLS7201 04/11/15 05:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Itasca Latitude Rear gas Pusher. Opinions

There was a water pump issue with the Workhorse gas pusher. Workhorse installed a redesigned fan clutch to correct the problem. Richard
RLS7201 04/11/15 10:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

If you remove the cross brace that the air cleaner box sits on, you should have about 3" of clearance for the engine to come forward. Measured from the bottom of the pan to the top of the valve covers. If you remove the upper manifold, valve covers and rocker arms, you should then have plenty of clearance for the cherry picker (engine crane). I'll be addressing the same issue this fall when I change out my 1995 F53 460. Keep us posted Richard
RLS7201 04/11/15 09:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Drive Shaft Brake/Parking Brake works only in one direction

It's probably a simple matter of adjusting the brake shoes. As already noted, you need to be able to turn the drive shaft to get a feel for the correct adjustment. I just lift the rear tires off the ground and support the MH with jack stands. Also you'll need to have the transmission in neutral for the brake to be in the released mode. If memory serves me correctly, you'll need to have the ignition key in the on position also. Look at the brake drum and you'll see a removable clip. Remove the clip and turn the slot to the top to see the adjusting star. I adjust the shoes as tight as I can and then back off the adjuster until the brake drum turns free. Richard
RLS7201 04/07/15 08:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Burned Diesel Pusher

Here's mine on a flatbed in Canada awaiting a 200 km trip to Winnepeg courtesy of Coachnet http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a499/dverstra/Breakdown_zps014edc61.jpg That's some pretty tough 2x4 ramps they used. GRIN
RLS7201 04/04/15 08:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1988 Gulf Stream. Auto Parking brake, not GM/Workhorse.

That chassis is now supported by Freightliner. Hopefully they can supply the info you need. Richard
RLS7201 04/01/15 06:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Computer Download Sequence - "Results"

You only need to fumble with 8.1 once. As soon as you fire up 8.1, figure out how to get on the Internet and install classic shell. Then you'll be able to see things like you are use to. Then transfer all you files. I went from XP to 8.1 and didn't want to deal with the learning curve of the new interface. Thus classic shell. Since then I have slowly started to learn the 8.1 interface. Still don't like it. Richard 8.1 w/classic shell
RLS7201 03/29/15 10:29am Technology Corner
RE: 1988 Fleetwood 32'

I'm not sure what they did in 1988, but my 1989 Ford E350, Fleetwood Jamboree, Class C had a 460 with throttle body injection, E40D transmission and a catalytic converter. It was a 27' and got about 8.5 mpg/7.5 mpg towing. The engine ran strong for the fourteen years/65000 miles that we owned it. We towed a 4500 pound boat most of time. On my model, Ford install what could best be described as a pair of small plastic trumpets in the air cleaner air box. They were designed to force feed air at low speeds. I cut those out and improved top end performance and mileage, but lost a little low end acceleration. I'm not sure about the Class A, but the Class C had a catalytic converter that was known to plug. Ford ran the exhaust out of the engine at 3", into a 2.5" converter and then back out to a 3" exhaust. You can cut the converter ends to 3" and weld the exhaust back on. This was another performance boost and allowed the converter to run cooler. Other than that, the drive train was solid and pulled hard in the hills. In that year model, mine had the rubber roof which was a pain over the years. That would be my biggest concern on a coach that old. Ford never used throttle body injection on a 460. While there was a two barrel throttle body in the center of the engine, the fuel was delivered to each port with 8 injectors. Thus port injection. Ford went straight from a carburetor to port fuel injection on the 460 in 1988. Richard
RLS7201 03/26/15 02:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refig temp adjustment

IF you have the adjustable tstat button on the control panel, then sliding the Thermister on the fins will have no affect at all. The sliding of the Thermister is for non adjustable Auto Temp refers. Doug WHY? If the Thermistor on both the adjustable and non-adjustable models read the fin temperature and the fin temperature is warmer at the top, why wouldn't moving the Thermistor on the adjustable models have an effect? Inquiring mind want to know. Thanks for your explanation of this phenonenom Richard
RLS7201 03/26/15 11:14am Tech Issues
RE: Tires on my Coachmen Classic

double post
RLS7201 03/24/15 05:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires on my Coachmen Classic

Its a 1987 Chevy chassis sorry i forgot to mention that piece of information. So the answer is a yes but the ride will feel different basically..I am ok with that as long as mechanically it is safe.. OK, I forgot about the lighter Chevy chassis having 16" tires. The same handling differences still apply. I don't see the tires you are looking at as being a safety hazard. Richard
RLS7201 03/24/15 05:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires on my Coachmen Classic

From the style of the tire you mention, I'll have to assume you have a 1988-1997 Ford F53 chassis with 235/85R16 tires. The Michelin XPS tire was OEM on that chassis. Due to the very tall side wall, the tire has a tendency to wallow from side to side in a turn. Thus Ford used an all steel ply construction tire. The only other all steel tire like the XPS is a Bridgestone R250. Other brands with different ply materials in the side wall will work but will not feel as solid as the Michelin XPS or Bridgestone R250. Some do not notice the difference and you may be one of those or not. I am very sensitive to the feel of a vehicle and did notice the difference when I tried a set of Coopers, which I returned under Cooper's satisfaction warranty and replaced with Michelin XPS tires. Richard 95 Bounder F53
RLS7201 03/24/15 05:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1988 Fleetwood 32'

I was looking at a 1988 fleetwood as well. After hours of research I decided against buying it for 1 main reason (caused by 2 sub-reasons). Basically, it brings a new meaning to the term gas guzzler. A 1988 wont be fuel injected, and as such will suck it back like beer on a hot summers day. Secondly, lack of a 4th (or overdrive) speed in transmission. Here is a comparison. My friend and I decided to go for one last trip in the fall, not far, only a few hours away. I got there and back for roughly $120. His trip cost him about $200-$220, for a ligher, smaller class c, versus my 20,000lb monster of a class a. In the end, if your not going far, or just looking for a fancy camper, then by all means, grab it up, but even if its only a few thousand (like the 1988 I was looking at), you will make up for that with terrible fuel economy. Not to mention that after 27 years, any rubber anywhere on the coach that hasnt been replaced, will most likely need replacing. If you want to go for it, here is a few things to make SURE about: Check the tires. Cracked or worn tires are about $2000 right off the top for decent ones. GO underneath and check for corrosion, specifically on brake and fuel lines. Chassis corrosion should be fairly noticable.While underneath, check your rubbers! Bushings, boots, seals all dry up. It can cost a few hundred dollars to change a seal worth about 5 bucks!Check the roof!!! Especially if its not rubber, it may also have corrosion or patched leaks. These are just the bare essentials, and I am sure someone else will chime in and add to the buyers beware checklist. Hope this helps! Just an FYI. Ford built their first F53 motor home chassis in 1988 with port fuel injection and E4OD 4 speed over drive transmission Richard
RLS7201 03/21/15 10:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Please help. 84 fleetwood southwind brakes

You may want to tell GM and many suppliers that there is no P-37 chassis. P-37 Sure. Show me a genuine GM catalog that lists a P37. Richard
RLS7201 03/19/15 04:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Please help. 84 fleetwood southwind brakes

Chev has always made a P-37 3 stands for 1 ton 7 stands for MH stripped chassis. P-37 info While the VIN coding does indeed give the specs for the chassis, I reiterate, Chevy never made a P37 chassis. If you want to split hairs, the chassis you reference is actually a P32 stripped RV chassis. A P30 is actually a commercial chassis, mistakenly referred to as an RV chassis. Most RVers have never had the chance to reference Chevy's parts manuals and see the difference. And you did not tell the whole story as told by "Gary RV Roamer". I quote the rest of Gary's comments. "You may see "P37" sequence in the VIN, but that does not mean it is a P37 chassis. Those are just how the code numbers in the VIN sometimes work out. A "P37" can be either a P30 or a p12 chassis" Richard
RLS7201 03/18/15 08:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Right LED tail light staying on

What you are experiencing is an electromagnetically induced voltage. I had the same problem on my MH when I added LED tail/stop lights. A little resistance between the hot leads and ground will bleed off the induced voltage. I added a 912 incandescent bulb to each side behind the tail lights to bleed of the stray voltage. In my case the stray voltage caused the cruse control and torque convert clutch to malfunction. Richard 95 Bounder LED's came with this trailer. Trailer has been sitting plugged in since the end of October. Problem didn't start until last week and only on the right taillight. I would agree with those here if more then one light was effected about a ground or stray voltage. It sure does sound like, as some have commented, that its a problem in the cable going to the truck or the box that cable is connected to. That will be my first place to start. I stand corrected. I misread your original post. Richard
RLS7201 03/18/15 03:16pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 12  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS