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 > Your search for posts made by 'RLS7201' found 258 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: hOUSE wATER pUMP

The latching system on my Bounder water pump failed a couple of time. Both times it was a failed momentary switch, stuck in the closed position. Remove the wires from one switch and see if the system works, if not move on to the next switch until you find the switch that failed. Richard
RLS7201 08/26/15 05:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: adding door deadbolt

I added a Home Depot dead bolt to my Bounder. Most residential dead bolt locks have provisions for various door thickness. Richard
RLS7201 08/26/15 05:36pm Tech Issues
RE: hOUSE wATER pUMP

Here is an example of how the pump controller is wired. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p9MZQvlAwXI/VJxEFa9lqQI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/ah7cmTRr0-M/w775-h477-no/Intellitec%2BWP%2BController.JPG height=400 width=600 Richard
RLS7201 08/26/15 10:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: My Repower Adventure

Wanna hear a sob story? I purchased a supercharged 312 cam, new Paxton blower with all the goodies, brand new heads and a shortblock from Ford. Landlord stole it all in 1968. Came home from Lake Tahoe looked in the empty spare bedroom and it was cleaned out. Jerk demanded a set of keys to the door deadbolts two weeks earlier. Not many remember the Paxton equipped 312 or the dual quad equipped 312 of the 50s. Most every one was racing chebbies. Richard
RLS7201 08/26/15 10:22am Tech Issues
RE: My Repower Adventure

Day 9-15 Mostly the normal waiting for out side support to get their stuff done. IE Valve job, parts cleaning, tranny rebuild & some minor welding on my 10 year old Banks Headers. I did get the timing cover, seal sleeve, harmonic balancer, water pump, oil pump & lifters installed today. Hopefully the heads will be done tomorrow and I can check the hydraulic lifters for preload, check the valve springs for coil bind and check the valve to piston clearance. Not the normal thing you do with a stock engine but the pistons and cam are not to OEM specs. When all that is done, it will be time to hoist the big ol hunk of iron back in the hole. I'll have pix when the engine is ready to go in. Richard
RLS7201 08/25/15 07:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Engine Identification help pls

The 1996 model year, P series motorhome engine was up dated from throttle body to port injection and labeled Vortec. HP was increased by 45. Richard
RLS7201 08/25/15 05:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shift cable

http://www.push-pull.com/ Richard
RLS7201 08/24/15 08:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1996 Ford F53 Radiator ChangeOut to a Heavy Duty Radiator?

Bob I bought the same replacement radiator that JC Whitney is selling. Beware! It has 15 fins per inch instead of the 20 fins per inch on your OEM radiator, and smaller tubes. The same radiator is available on the internet for $470.00. http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/performance_radiator_oe_replacement_radiator/PERRA38918/performanceradiatorpfr2691cbr-.aspx All the replacements that fit your F53 will have 2691CBR as part of the part #. It will not cool properly. Your OEM radiator does an excellent job of cooling. Get it repaired. I am in the process of adapting brass end tanks to my OEM radiator and junking the replacement that I bought on the internet. Just one of the mistakes that I made with my F53. Richard
RLS7201 08/24/15 06:39pm Tech Issues
RE: My Repower Adventure

Thanks NinerBikes, I watched with great anticipation when Geocritter (Steve) was replacing the 460 in his 94 HR. I'm glad you and others are enjoying my very tiring project. :) I haven't built a fun engines since the late 60s. Back then I was pit crewing for my neighbors stock car. It was a 56 Ford, 312 "Y" block. We didn't make as much HP as the chebby guys but we handled better. For 3 years running we finished 1st place on the ΒΌ mile track and 3rd place on the 5/8 track. It became all too time consuming and my family suffered, so I returned to being just a fan in the bleachers. Richard
RLS7201 08/21/15 12:45pm Tech Issues
RE: F53 Drivability

The best steering improvement I made on my F53 was setting the toe-in on the strong side. 5/32 toe-in. Next best was a front track bar. Insulate the dog house and surrounding structure to reduce heat and noise. Richard
RLS7201 08/20/15 04:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane relay stays on and drain batteries?

It is in fact installed between the tank and the regulator. Ah....So the solenoid is for a remote fill and not a LP detector. I have a few RV friends with Monaco and Holiday Rambler DPs from the late 90s to the early 20s that have CCI systems. The reason I'm versed in CCI stuff is that I went into CCI detector repairs when CCI went out of business. I then turned it over to an Electrical Engineer friend, who continues to do the repair. Richard
RLS7201 08/20/15 01:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane relay stays on and drain batteries?

If you truly have a CCI propane detector, the solenoid is designed for low pressure and should be down stream from the regulator. If the system fails you can remove the solenoid valve from the system and replace the detector with an alert only detector. Or The detector can be repaired. There is a fellow (Larry) in Olathe Kansas that does CCI repair. You can contact him a ccirepairs@gmail.com Larry does good work and offers good customer service. Richard His system the solenoid is on the HI pressure side. Once it goes thru the solenoid the LP then goes into the LP regulator. Doug Interesting. I wonder who else made a LP detector in 2004 that controlled a solenoid beside CCI? CCI clearly states in their installation instructions to mount the solenoid down stream from the pressure regulator Also, noted on the solenoid is 0.4 PSI max. Could it be that Monaco installed it wrong? As we both know, Monaco did use CCI detectors in that era. Richard
RLS7201 08/20/15 09:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: My Repower Adventure

Just heads? No shortblock work? I would be looking at some aluminum SCJ heads or similar. Maybe the whole thing :B http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server4700/870uh/products/3632/images/2685/M_6007_Z460FFT__27115.1378844161.1280.1280.jpg?c=2 I my first post I mentioned the 528 stroker block that will be going in my MH. As for after market heads, none will work with Fords 460 EFI intake manifold. Ford changed the port configuration in 1988 with the introduction of fuel injection. I'm not looking for high RPM power, just low RPM torque. It would be a step backwards to change to a carb and then have to use a stand-alone computer for the E4OD tranny. Fuel injection is so drivable. I don't ever want to drive a carb again. If you ever feel the need to build a 385 series BBF, AFR has the latest & greatest heads. Thanks for your thoughts Richard
RLS7201 08/20/15 08:39am Tech Issues
RE: My Repower Adventure

Day 9 I'm learning that good radiator shops are getting few and far between. Not much creativity in radiator repair any more. Looks like I'm going to have to do the fitment of the new tanks on the OEM radiator. No one wants to think outside the box. I did get the old block off the engine stand and the new one on the stand and the garage semi-organized. Nothing else to do until the heads and accessories come home. My tired ol body needs a rest. Think I'll take in the air show here in K.C. this weekend. Safe travels. Richard
RLS7201 08/19/15 08:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Propane relay stays on and drain batteries?

If you truly have a CCI propane detector, the solenoid is designed for low pressure and should be down stream from the regulator. If the system fails you can remove the solenoid valve from the system and replace the detector with an alert only detector. Or The detector can be repaired. There is a fellow (Larry) in Olathe Kansas that does CCI repair. You can contact him a ccirepairs@gmail.com Larry does good work and offers good customer service. Richard
RLS7201 08/19/15 05:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane relay stays on and drain batteries?

If you have one of the old CCI II (7719) detector/solenoid units, the total current drain is 0.168 amp/hours or 168 ma. That is hardly noticeable and should be of no concern. Your fix-it guy give you unnecessary cause for concern. Richard
RLS7201 08/19/15 02:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: My Repower Adventure

Hi, Another thought about the radiator. My buddy recommends running a coolant filter - and I installed one on my new 97 Bounder. It also has the 460" engine. I put one on my 75 pickup with the 460 too. After 1 year, it had collected a lot of sand looking stuff, and I have changed it yearly on my motorhome. I did not drain the radiator or change the fluid, until at year 10, when I replaced all the larger diameter hoses, but not the heater hoses (still original) and replaced the fluid then. THe coolant filter is Napa # FIL 4070 while the holder is #FIL 4019. My guess is that Ford installed a slightly larger than required radiator, to reduce warranty problems? Also after the radiators are 10 years old, they can have a lot of fowling, or dirt inside that prevents heat transfer. I am glad that mine is clean as a whistle! I agree, I never overheat, have the Banks system, and that oil cooler is a HUGE help to keep the engine cooler. My guess is that the cool oil takes away about 20% of all the engine heat. . . My buddy's Mitsubishi Montero used to overheat, but he installed a industrial sized oil to air cooler in front of his radiator, and now it runs very cool. The cooler is about 18" tall,4 pass with 3/4" tubing. I think it belonged to a large hydraulic crane type of cooler. .. Have fun putting it all back together! Fred. Thanks Fred, I purchased the ol Bounder in Jan. 2003 and changed the anti-freeze that spring. When I pulled the block drain plugs, there was no build-up in the bottom of the water jacket. A couple of years later I had the radiator end tank gasket changed and the radiator was spotless. I suspect that I am one of the lucky ones with NO casting residue in the cooling system. With the replacement engine and radiator re-do, I suspect I'll not have to worry about crud in the cooling system. The whole trick to keeping a water filled system from oxidizing is to keep the pH above 8.5. Always mix the coolant with distilled water. I've had the privilege of some boiler maintenance training and access to high end pH meters and have had to clean up boilers that were not maintained properly. So I am aware. Richard
RLS7201 08/18/15 07:51pm Tech Issues
RE: My Repower Adventure

Day 8 Not much to report today. I have the old engine on the engine stand and stripped to a "short block". The heads and accessories are at the machine shop. Took the headers to a friend that runs a sheet metal shop. 3 of the AIR tubes are cracked and need to be welded. I'm also having him weld a O2 sensor bung to the "Y" pipe for the wide band A/F ratio meter. 2 or 3 years ago I purchased an after market radiator to replace the OEM radiator that kept leaking at the composite tank gasket. Big mistake! It had less fins per inch and the tubes were smaller but it did have brass end tanks. It did not cool the engine well. Hopefully the radiator shop will be able to solder the brass end tanks on the old radiator and get rid of the crimped on composite end tanks. OEM radiator is on the right. It is considerately heaver than the replacement. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3Rzs3Ic3n5A/VdPSBMGhCWI/AAAAAAAAAt4/dtksiNxUkAA/w1298-h865-no/100_1290.JPG height=400 width=600
RLS7201 08/18/15 06:52pm Tech Issues
RE: My Repower Adventure

Day 7 Just about ready to pull it. Had to cut 6" off the engine lift's fulcrum (no that's not a dirty word) to get it in the hole. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9XRS2MjH3lw/VdJ5i6GRJgI/AAAAAAAAAtI/zXlIszgc6QE/w1298-h865-no/100_1283.JPG height=400 width=600 Wide open spaces at last! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-blMLphxG67Q/VdJ5i3x4B_I/AAAAAAAAAtE/pbXx9ntBVVg/w1298-h865-no/100_1284.JPG height=400 width=600 I'm the young hanscum one. Grooooooaaaan! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8JTIk-ZFInQ/VdJ5iyHr3eI/AAAAAAAAAtM/9qtedhxy3hs/w1298-h865-no/100_1286.JPG height=400 width=600 Now it's time to disassemble the ol beast and take the heads in for a valve job and get the accessories cleaned. The garage is a disaster but that too will get fixed in time. Stay tuned, more to come Richard
RLS7201 08/17/15 06:39pm Tech Issues
RE: My Repower Adventure

When I was racing, CROWER cams in Chula Vista CA was the sole manufacturer that could grind a cam to make a Ford engine run it's best. Wonder if they're still in business? The owner of a L3 440 powered Vogue motorhome insisted on using that hunk of garbage for rebuilding instead of using the 440 Magnum engine for pure LPG use. He paid the price. Gutless, overheating and incurable detonation. Your 460 ought to run like a top! Yup, crower is still in business. My engine builder is a Lunati dealer so we used a Lunati RV cam for computer controlled engines. I'll get my hands slapped for this but Chrysler's "B" block is a boat anchor. Now on the other hand, the "A" block could be made to run. I purchased a new 1967 Plymouth Barracuda "S" package. IE 383, 4 spd., no power any thing! It would run on the big end but it took for ever to get there. Never could make it perform like the other brands. Had the privilege of using a couple of MH with 413P and 440P engines. No power and fuel mileage was about 4 MPG. YUCK! LPG in a 440 would be a real anchor. Thanks Mex for your comments and reading my post. I'll get day 7 posted some time this evening. Richard
RLS7201 08/17/15 06:07pm Tech Issues
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