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 > Your search for posts made by 'RLS7201' found 258 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Leak and click, click noise?

There are a couple of problems with not fixing the leak. It is theoretically possible for the leaking exhaust gasses to etch the exhaust port in the head, making head replacement necessary. Also the leaking exhaust gasses will contribute to lesser turbo performance, which contributes to poorer engine performance. The exhaust leak needs to be repaired as soon as possible. Richard
RLS7201 04/19/18 08:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1997 Southwind ignition key

Sorry, I should have added that it's a Freightliner chassis. Don't believe Fleetwood made a 1997 Southwind on a diesel Freightliner chassis. It should be a gas chassis, which would have to be a Ford or Chevrolet. Richard
RLS7201 04/16/18 08:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Beaver Patriot house batteries

I have friend with about the same energy usage as you. He continually discharges his batteries below 50 percent and has to replace his GC1 batteries every two years. Replace your 400 amp hour batteries with the same and avoid headaches down the road. Beaver originally installed the necessary batteries. Richard
RLS7201 04/14/18 11:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V-10 Sparkplugs

bEEN TOLD THE hELICOILS ARE sTEEL INTO AN aLUMINIUM HEAD. Steel and Aluminium don't mix well. Corrosion of each other. Aluminum heads with steel spark plugs. Cast iron block with aluminum heads. Think about it. Richard
RLS7201 04/13/18 08:01pm Class A Motorhomes

Well shucky darn! I hope you get the oil leak repaired in short order and get back on the road. Richard
RLS7201 04/12/18 08:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V-10 Sparkplugs

A very small percentage of Ford's early modular (4.6 5.4 6.8) engines had plug blow out problems. The problem has been blown out of proportion on the Internet. Your later model V10 does not have the problem. Fill your tank with gas and drive on, knowing your plugs won't blow out. Richard
RLS7201 04/11/18 04:24pm Class A Motorhomes

Here's something to think about. About a month ago I had my motorhome transmission rebuilt at Al's Transmission in El Centro,CA. About 60 miles west of Yuma. I was very impressed with their quality service and PRICING! The transmission performed flawlessly on the way back to KC,MO. I spent my working career in the skilled trades and recognize quality when I see it. I just called Al's and they said they could handle your engine oil leak. They have a lift that will lift your MH. If you elect to try Al's, call in advance. Al's Transmission Services Transmission shop in El Centro, California Address: 401 W Commercial Ave, El Centro, CA 92243 Hours: Open ? Closes 5PM Phone: (760) 353-5785 Richard
RLS7201 04/11/18 04:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: odd camper

Coach entrance door would indicate it was designed for driving on the left (wrong :B) side of the road. Steering wheel is for driving on the right side of the road. Looks like a photo shop pic. Richard
RLS7201 04/11/18 10:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake Job on 95 F53 ***Update***

So much mis-information. There are 5 brake hoses on your chassis, not 3. It was the chevy P32 chassis that had the brake hose problem, not the Ford F53 chassis. The brake hoses are still in good shape on my 95 F53. I suspect you'll find the dust boots on the rear calipers have been over heated and are cracked. The OEM phenolic caliper pistons can swell and drag in their bores. You can buy metal pistons and caliper rebuild kits or exchange your calipers for complete units. Before you attach the new outer pads to the calipers, check fit them in the axle bracket. They needs to float freely in the axle brackets. Most outer pads are a touch too long and need to ground down a little. As already noted, clean or replace the slide pins and the surfaces they press in to. Use the synthetic grease labeled for brakes on the pins and mounting surfaces. The front slide pins, are much easier to remove if you un-screw the steering stops first. Cleaning and greasing the slide pins is an every other year maintenance item, according to Ford. Also change the brake fluid on a two year schedule. Unless the rotors are warped or have been scored by metal from the pads, leave them alone. No need to turn them. Don't go cheap on the pads. $39.95 per axle is not enough to get quality pads. More like $100.00 per axle. :(:( Not sure why others experience poor braking problems. On one panic stop, my wife got seat belt bruises. Bad brakes won't do that. Richard
RLS7201 04/10/18 08:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gasoline Smell in Cabin

If your Betty is carbureted, she may have a bad float in the carburetor. Over time foam floats will soak up gas and sink, allowing the fuel level to be high and run out of the carburetor. Richard
RLS7201 04/05/18 09:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Halogen to LED Headlights?

For my 4x6" head light system, I went with these lenses and added these bulbs I'm very happy with the results. Richard
RLS7201 04/04/18 04:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: "Tuner" for a V-10

To those that don't need "more power". If I have to explain, you wouldn't understand. Unless you're a Harley rider, they get it. See my signature.
RLS7201 04/01/18 11:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Whadda ya think? Should I expand these just a little bit, like some of the older travel trailers, (canned hams), and have a pair of wings on the back? Lol. Yea, probably not. http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/wings.jpg Shasta wings.
RLS7201 04/01/18 11:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Whining brake pedal

RLS7201 04/01/18 11:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1990 GB Cruise Master structure

Be aware that your GB might be an Oshkosh chassis or Ford chassis with 460, in 1990. So your MH could be a Ford F53 chassis or a Oshkosh chassis. Ford chassis will have EFI, E4OD transmission, with over drive and 16" tires. Oshkosh will have a carb, C6 3 speed tranny and 19.5 tires. Freightliner now owns Oshkosh. Richard
RLS7201 04/01/18 11:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing rear 13,500btu with 15,000btu A/C?

I am NOT suggesting anything. I never stated anything about the wire gauge of the 30 amp shore cord. What I am stating is simple. I have worked on RV's for 38 years and NEVER has a lower amp draw been suggested for a 30 amp rated system in an RV. Remember, I am old enough to have worked on RV's for almost 20 years BEFORE 50 amp was even an option or available. I have seen numerous 30 amp ends pitted and melted and that was caused by using a 30 to 15 amp adapter. NOT really low voltage, but when you adapt down and most RV'ers are pretty ignorant about adapting down and the problems that causes, the voltage does drop and the AMP draw goes up and that generates HEAT. That causes the pitting and melting of the adapter and if on a regular 30 amp shore CG plug and you do indeed draw MORE than 30 amps, which a LOT of RV'ers do, will cause the melting and pitting on the 30 amp shore cord ends. I have customers(probably thousands over the years), come into my service center and the 50 to 30 adapter is pitted and melted on the 30 amp end and rarely will I find one not damaged from running MORE amps than 30 thru that adapter. A LOT of RV'ers think that if they overload the system the breakers will protect the system. THEY DO NOT. You must have knowledge and manage your amp draw when connected to 30 amp service or when connected with a 50 to 30 dogbone if you do NOT have a onboard EMS system. Doug If a 30 amp breaker does not trip at a continuous load over 30 amps, then what is its purpose? Why is it RATED at 30 amps? Are not these devices there to protect those who don't know or understand electrical loads? Never mind. Here is a chart that shows circuit breaker trip time delay. Which would support your comment for up to 125 percent over load. Trip Time Delay Curve And this formula also supports your comments. Multiply the amps by the volts. In most circuits, this will be 20 x 120 = 2400 or 15 x 120 = 1800. The number resulting from this equation is the maximum wattage load you can place on the circuit before tripping the breaker. Richard
RLS7201 03/30/18 09:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing rear 13,500btu with 15,000btu A/C?

Currently, not cool enough to our liking. The front was struggling last year. Both units are 14 years old. Has the condensers ever been cleaned? You might be spending money replacing perfectly good units that just need cleaning. ACs don't work well if they can't dissipate the heat. My 23 years old OEM ACs are still performing like new. Richard
RLS7201 03/29/18 08:15pm Class A Motorhomes
Proper Weight Distribution

Proper Weight Distribution Richard
RLS7201 03/26/18 04:19pm Towing
RE: Disconnect my battery

Your Brake Buddy should not be running down your battery. I've used a Brake Buddy for years with out a battery problem. Maybe your BB has an air leak, causing the compressor to run excessively. Does your CR-V have a navigation system and are you removing the necessary fuse? There is really no need to run a charge line if you find and fix what is draining your battery. Richard
RLS7201 03/20/18 04:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Upgrade tail lights to led?

I have the Bargman up grade LEDs on my 95 Bounder. No flasher problems but I did have cruse control and torque converter clutch problems. I spliced in 4 194 incandescent bulbs, with sockets, behind the tail/stop lights and all the problems went away. The Bargman LED assembles are great. You will be seen! I paid $119 for the 3 lens pair from PPL motorhomes, delivered. Richard
RLS7201 03/19/18 08:00pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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