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 > Your search for posts made by 'RLS7201' found 237 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Fleetwood Discovery windows fogging

Bumpy: The fogging window problem is present in entry level units right up to luxury units. Almost any RV with dual pane windows will have that problem. To the poster with the Expedition: Our 05 Bounder has dual pane windows as did almost every Bounder from 02 to 09. Maybe even more. I have seen Discoveries of that era with dual pane windows. Moisheh Dual pane windows became standard items on all Bounders in 1994. Richard
RLS7201 04/19/14 06:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash HVAC controls not working

First off you need to know who the manufacture of you AC system is. Evens Tempcon is pneumatic control. Denso is all electrical control. Richard
RLS7201 04/18/14 08:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Piezo Electric Add On

96Bounder30E did the same mod. I think he posted pix. Richard
RLS7201 04/18/14 05:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: FORD EBRAKE TRANSMISSION FAILURE

Thanks FIREUP, since it is so difficult to locate the part numbers for the gasket, shoes, and seals, can you help us along with that info? It would save us a lot of time and trouble. Maybe Fireup has a different source. This is my source. http://www.allstategear.com/ZFParkingBrake.htm Richard
RLS7201 04/18/14 05:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: FORD EBRAKE TRANSMISSION FAILURE

...snip...My first chore for the weekend is two check the fluid level in mine. Slowly undo the plug, if some fluid starts to appear run the plug right back in. They were overfilled when built, and you'll never get that much fluid in them again. The're not over filled when built. The front lip seal is designed to keep the ATF in. Most lip seals only form a positive seal one way, thus allowing some transmission fluid to migrate into the e-brake assy. Drain your e-brake assy to the bottom of the hole. Come back 6 months later and you will find it over full again. Just the nature of the beast. Richard
RLS7201 04/18/14 08:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine Alternator/Voltage regulator charging problem

Here's a little food for thought. When you need to run your generator to charge the chassis battery while driving. Why monkey around with jumper cables or change wire locations on the isolator relay. When you start your coach engine, the isolator relay is energized. Or in some cases the the chassis battery will start charging when the coach batteries get to 13.3 volts. So the converter should charge the chassis battery while running down the road. KISS Richard
RLS7201 04/17/14 10:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: best clear sealant for painted rv sidewalls

Try Dap ALEX PLUS 35 year from Home Depot. I started using it 10 years ago on my MH. It sticks, seals and stays pliable and it's cheap. The clear works much better than the colors. Had an old time RV body repair guy tell me about it. Richard
RLS7201 04/15/14 06:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: First time buyers considering a 1997 Four Winds class A

The Ford 460 is a very durable engine. Major fault is the exhaust manifold bolts. Headers are the only permanent cure. Put a Banks Transcommander on the E4OD transmission and it will live as long as the engine. Radiator is subject to leaking at the end tank gaskets. The ZF emergency brake assembly is subject to leaking. May require a seal job. Don't let it run dry or it will get expensive. As designed, the service brakes are good but require bi-annual maintenance. i.e. Remove calipers, clean and lube slide pins, flush brake fluid. Some have never got the brakes to meet their needs, mine have always worked well. Front end can be made to drive well. i.e. Install front track bar and set toe-in a little strong. Keep all front end components well lubed. I have the same chassis (460 F53) that you are looking at. It has 130,000 miles on it with only minor failures. Resealed the ZF emergency brake at approx. 70,000 miles. Water pump at approx. 80,000 miles. Plug wires at 112,000 miles. Headers at 40,000 miles. Radiator gaskets at 65,000 miles. Richard
RLS7201 04/15/14 06:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine Alternator/Voltage regulator charging problem

Running the engine (and alternator) with the battery disconnected will likely blow the diodes in the alternator. I'd like to see further discussion, as to why this is true or not. My thoughts are, the diodes do no more that rectify AC to DC and pass the electrons along to the system. The batteries do smooth the ripple but the system should tolerate that. The regulator will still control the rotor field strength. So voltage should be stable. So why would the diodes be compromised with no battery in the system? Richard
RLS7201 04/14/14 03:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: FORD EBRAKE TRANSMISSION FAILURE

There are a lot of us that have had leaking ZF emergency brakes. Some of us have learned to look underneath the coach for oil spots on the ground. Ford says the brake assembly is not repairable but All State Gear Has rebuilt units and parts. $4000 is a little pricey for a new ZF brake assembly installed. I suspect around $2000 is the current retail price and 2-3 hours labor to change it. There are some of us on this forum that have resealed their own E brake assembles. Richard
RLS7201 04/14/14 07:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Remote LP Shut-Off and Battery Usage

You probably have a CCI propane detector with solenoid. It draws 0.168 milliamp when holding the solenoid valve open. That's 4 amps in 24 hours. The solenoid has a 9 volt coil and is maintained with 1.5-2 volts. Very economical. CCI is out of business but there is a guy repairing the detectors. If you need repair you can contact Larry at ccirepairs@gmail.com Richard
RLS7201 04/10/14 07:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Can you jump the coach to chassi batteries to charge

Thanks, Richard-- learn something new every day. Is this ignition/battery combine solenoid in front or in back in these DP's? That is what confuses me. You sure would not want to run very heavy gauge wire/amps (to start the engine when the chassis battery is down) from the back all the way to the front and then to the back again. And, would not want to power the dash HVAC fan and all the other "front of coach" ignition hot items from the back. The combiner/isolator relay is usually positioned close to the battery banks. So its location could be front, middle or rear. In most cases it closes when the ignition switch is turned on or the E start switch is engaged. In a few cases the isolator relay will close when the chassis battery get to approx 13.3 volts. Usually the house and chassis battery banks are in close proximity. Thus only one isolator relay and one heavy cable to the engine are required. Most gassers with approx 200 amp hour house battery banks use a 100 amp continuous duty relay, while most DPs with 400 amp hour or larger house battery banks use a 200 amp continuous duty relay. In almost all instances the frame provides the return path for the ground. Interesting to note, all but the very entry level Fleetwood class A MH since 1995 have a battery charging system that is designed to charge all batteries, no matter what the source. i.e. All batteries charge with the engine running when chassis battery exceeds 13.3 volts. All batteries charge with shore power or generator when coach batteries exceeds 13.3 volts. A RV custom Products Battery Control Center, with smart circuit board is responsible for this feature. It has taken the RV industry many years to catch up with Fleetwood. Some still have not. The after market BIRD's have been a blessing to many higher end class A MH owners. Richard 95 Bounder with factory installed RV Custom Product's BCC
RLS7201 04/09/14 08:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can you jump the coach to chassi batteries to charge

Many MHs have a button on the dash to connect and start. Correct. But, many are momentary switches controlling intermittent duty solenoids. This configuration is not designed to be left on 24/7. That's momentary switch controls the same relay that is engaged when the ignition switch is turned on, which is a continuous duty relay. Richard Richard, Perhaps true on some rigs, but on every DP I have worked on the ignition solenoid is up front, the battery combine/dual switch in the back near the batteries. Gas coaches may certainly be different. Guess you haven't work on any Monaco or Fleetwood Diesel pushers. They are as I described. Richard
RLS7201 04/08/14 01:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can you jump the coach to chassi batteries to charge

Many MHs have a button on the dash to connect and start. Correct. But, many are momentary switches controlling intermittent duty solenoids. This configuration is not designed to be left on 24/7. That's momentary switch controls the same relay that is engaged when the ignition switch is turned on, which is a continuous duty relay. Richard
RLS7201 04/08/14 08:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel pump replacement

No problem. Rock Auto has what you need. They even show the part numbers. Richard
RLS7201 04/07/14 04:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Jack antenna question

Here is a performance test of the two antennas. The Jack did not finish first. Richard
RLS7201 04/07/14 11:53am Technology Corner
RE: Wheel bearings

You can use a little logical thinking in the case of wheel bearings. In some places, tapered roller bearings DO require a slight preload, such as pinion bearings. And that is tolerable only because they run in oil. Any greased bearing w/ zero clearance or preload on it, in theory has no room for grease, therefore will suffer an early failure. This was proven when disc brakes first came out, and a preload was called for to keep the brakes from dragging. But there was massive bearing failure because of the "NO ROOM FOR GREASE" A year (or less) later the preload spec was dropped, and so did the bearing failure. NEVER run a preload on a greased bearing, it will fail from lack of lubrication. Over 100 ft. lbs of torque on a pinion bearing is not slight. As an example of your no grease theory, my F53 with grease packed front wheel bearings has been running for 92K miles with preloaded bearings. The OEM bearings failed at 38K miles, they were loose. You are right about over torqued bearings on the new disk brakes. I was working in the auto industry when that happened. Ford specked the torque at 15 ft. lbs. and they failed. As you indicated, the specs was DROPPED, but you didn't include the whole story. The specs was DROPPED to a lesser number, but still preloaded and all was well. Your mileage may vary. Richard
RLS7201 04/03/14 09:56am Tech Issues
RE: Wheel bearings

Hold the bearing up to the sun light and look for sparkles in the grease. Sparkles indicate metal in the grease. If they pass that test, wash them, look them over carefully for defects, repack if good and reinstall. Tapered roller require a slight preload to keep the rollers in full contact with the races. If left loose, they hammer themselves to death. Ball bearings from the pre 60s did require a slight clearance and that ideology carried over to tapered rollers. Roller bearings have run many thousands of miles with no preload but would have run longer if installed properly. Seals also last longer if they don't have to tolerate movement between components. If you ever have the opportunity to talk to a real bearing engineer, he will concur with my statement. Richard
RLS7201 04/02/14 07:58pm Tech Issues
RE: And where are YOU headed this summer???

Hopefully I'll be lounging around the sticks & bricks, getting acquainted with my new knees. Spent too many years on an enduro bike, seeing the back woods. Richard
RLS7201 03/29/14 04:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pump grey tank into black tank?

I installed a gray tank to black tank transfer pump on my 95 Bounder, over 10 years ago. Seeing how I have 100 gallons of fresh water and 2 50 gallon waste tanks, it allows me to use all my fresh water when boon docking and help flush out the black tank when dumping. I used a Little Giant magnetic drive acid pump that needs no shaft seal. The pump discharges into the black tank vent stack. No back flow possible. It is also set up to pump the gray water to a garden hose, if necessary. Richard
RLS7201 03/28/14 02:42pm Class A Motorhomes
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