Too later. We're on the road even now. 162 miles from Limon. I have had the awning flip up numerous times and keep meaning to add the Velcro. I will get that on this trip. I will hit DIA on Sunday and Thurs of this.coming week. I'll wave as I go by your house. Dang thin air!
Hello and welcome aboard.
It all depends upon your time and abilities in addition to some funds. There are a couple of options that I see and probably many, many more.
One is to forego the internal modifications and get a stand alone shower tent. You can use solar showers or the portable water heaters like the Coleman Hot Water On Demand water heater. You'll need a method of collecting the water runoff. Some folks use a household water heater overflow pan for that. We had a shower tent and used it on one trip then put it on the shelf. Works well for some folks.
For the shower/toilet combination units, it is tough to figure out if uses just their standard cassette toilet plus a specific base, i.e. shower pan or if it is a specific model cassette toilet that is fitted for the shower pan. You might just need to find the base that matches your model of toilet, which is probably the C400 series. A complete setup, pulled from an old PUP, sold for $300 with local pickup on ebay recently.
It wouldn't be too hard to build a shower pan yourself. There are lots of images that Google provided for inspiration. I did a Google search and found this for starters.
And using a laundry sink tub basin is another popular DIY option as they can fit inside the base cabinets for seating and then you're attaching a curtain to the ceiling, adding a faucet with detachable shower wand.
Everyone's experience and wants are different. I really wanted a shower and toilet in the first PUP we purchased. For my wife, it wasn't high on her priority list. That was ultimately the reason I sold it and bought the current PUP. Being a lot bigger inside and tons of amenities sure didn't hurt either.
Well, since getting one with a hard wall spacious toilet and shower (almost double the area provided by standard PUP shower/toilet configurations), I'm the only one to have used it and that was once. The toilet is invaluable, the shower not so much. The hard walls of the bathroom are dang useful for the obvious purpose but came with a mirror on the outside, makes an awesome place to put towel hangers, organizers, etc.
I would make the following suggestion: either buy the unit that you want with everything in it, which is called "buy your second PUP first" instead of settling for a great deal, OR buy one and immediately buy the parts to make the necessary changes. If not, probably you'll limp along for a few years and finally give up and sell it or just not be satisfied if you don't happen to ever get around to the major modifications.
BTW, I love doing mods to my PUP. It's a hobby in itself. I have not done any structural reconfigurations yet but lots of creature comfort or usability upgrades. See here for some of what I've done. Others on here done quite a few.
Good luck with the window unit. I think it will be one of those "better than nothing" situations. There doesn't seem to be many window units that will get close to the 13,500 or 15,000 BTU RV air conditioners, and the 12,000 BTU window units weigh a modest 60+ pounds and $300+. A Coleman Mach 3 13.5K costs $450 plus shipping gets you to $574 delivered to your front door. Or a Duo Therm Brisk Air II 15k BTU is $545 delivered.
Regardless, still do the Reflectix and Gizmos and other heat avoidance strategies.
Where I camp in Arkansas and Texas, it is a necessity to have air conditioning during the summer because of the heat but more so the humidity. Last week the heat index was 114 degrees in my shop. At least with an AC in the PUP, I can sleep in comfort. The rest of the time, it's get out and go.
I do believe you are fighting a tough battle with any recent (last decade or two) models if you've kicked out the Sylvan Sport and Quicksilver lines. Find something even within your requirements minus the A/C and then add a portable or window unit.
Rooftop units weigh around 100 pounds. Portables are around 60 pounds and window units range from 40 to 60 pounds. Specific models will vary.
J, I don't have any screws to keep my awning in the rail. They decided to let gravity do the job. I can slide it out of the rail from either end. At 14 feet, I don't do it very often. Only once, in fact.
And mine does have a bead of caulk as well as screws into the aluminum roof.
First, welcome aboard. We're glad to have you.
For an air conditioner, it is not too hard to install yourself, which will save you $300-400. You can go with either 13.5K BTU or 15K BTU. Even though at only a 10ft box, I would suggest the 15K if you can swing it.
A Coleman or Duotherm are brands to go with but my recomendation would be Coleman. I love my Carrier AirV but unfortunately, Carrier got out of the roof-top air conditioner business.
One of the most reputable and more affordable places to get an AC is at www.pplmotorhomes.com, and specifically here for air conditioners.
Your roof should already have a 14"x14" vent or hole in it that these air conditions utilize. Then, find the 20 amp 120v power outlet inside and plug in the AC.
Other options do exist but I have yet to hear of anyone who says they perform as well as or better than a roof top unit.
Shielding is very important as happybooker1 points out. Popup Gizmos found here are worth every penny. Finding shade will help greatly help keep the temps down inside.
I had to spend several weeks one year in Arkansas on a black, freshly laid asphalt surface when air temps were 102 and 107 degrees on the shady side of my PUP after it had soaked up heat all day. I also used a silvery tarp attached to the roof and anchored to the ground on the western side to provide some shaded relief.
With the Popup gizmos and tarp, the A/C was able to keep the interior in the low to mid 80s during the worst part of the day. Not cozy but tolerable. Thankfully, it pulled a lot of humidity out of the air.
On the front of Modifications (yes, I capitalized on purpose), check out a post of mine here and some additional photos here but be careful. It is also very addicting and can be expensive!
I'm sorry, but I have no experience with only using adhesive on that rail. My suggestion would be to use Liquid Nails construction adhesive. If it were me, I would lay down masking tape on either side of the rail lengthwise so that when the Liquid Nails or whatever adhesive you use oozes out of the side, it goes onto the tape and helps make a cleaner line after you remove the tape. There's a few sealants that might do the trick but it's probably the same thing Fleetwood used in the first place that failed. With that much length, you will still have to work fast and a partner with another tube starting from the other end will make for a more successful time of it.
If you're replacing the regulator already, go for an automatic switch-over two-stage regulator like this, assuming you have dual LP tanks. Life is just a little easier with one of these. It does require you to look at the red/green indicator occasionally to see when the primary tank is empty.
Sorry to hear about the cancer but glad you're pursuing the good life.
There's a couple of "it depends" on replacing just a section of canvas. If you have access to a local upholstery place, they'll charge a pretty penny but could sew in a new section. If the existing canvas has zippered sections, then Bear Creek Canvas could make you just the section as much of what they do is made upon order. You might have to ship them the damaged section so they can use it as a pattern.
Failing those or other possible options, replacing the whole thing is a last resort and adds $1,000 to your PUP costs. Unless you are just smitten with the floor plan, I would keep looking at $6k as is. It took me many months to find a suitable PUP.
As for the slide out, I really want a dinette slide out. It gets that blasted table out of the main walk-way. That's about the one major thing I would change about mine. Of course, an outside kitchen would also be on the Nice-to-Have list.
You are mostly wired for air conditioning. My only concern would be if roof bracing is needed or is it already present (visible or not).
I would take the box and have a 20 amp recepticle installed. The one outlet you show is 20 amps but is it wired to the 20 amp circuit breaker labeled "AC" or the 15 amp circuit breaker labeled "110"? I would use a tester or a light to determine which breaker controlled that outlet. I sure hope it's not a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp breaker...
You will have a number of choices when wiring in the new A/C. You can go to the silver service box and hard wire it in with those wire nuts. You can also turn that service box into a proper 120v 20 amp outlet with box so you can plug and unplug the A/C as needed. I would say this is how most of the A/C units are set up - 20 amp outlets even if they're dedicated/not duplex.
There's a very good chance that your PUP is pre-wired for AC. One quick check would be to look into the power distribution center/power converter where the 12v fuses and 120v breakers are located. Hopefully, there is a 120v circuit break that is A) labeled "A/C" or "Air Conditioner" and B) is 20 amps.
If those are true, you're in luck and just have to find where the outlet is hiding. It will look similar to this:
Notice the T-shaped slot on the left. This indicates that it can handle 15 amps (typical household outlet style) or 20 amps, needed for the A/C.
Look for this outlet inside cabinets if it is not visible on the front of the furniture.
If none of the above is true, then you're in for a little more fun. There are options, but I would suggest taking a picture of the power center first and posting it here if you are unsure.
The owners manuals are pretty generic, but yours is found here. You will have to create an accout to access the PDF. It will have general information about the pop up but is helpful if you are new to campers.
As donn0128 said, most of the appliance manuals will come directly from the manufacturer. You'll end up using Google for things like "Dometic RM4934 user manual pdf" and similar. Most all of the campers (pop-ups, travel trailers, etc) use appliances from a hand full of manufacturers, like Atwood, Dometic, Suburban, WFCO and so forth.
If you are having trouble finding a specific item, please let us know.
BTW, one helpful source of information is the Fleetwood parts manuals is here. It has line drawings and part numbers of the different components of your pop-up.
Sealing up the underside of a Fleetwood or Coleman would go against what Fleetwood and Weyerhaeuser (actual manufacturer) say for the Structurwood used. Sealing it would actually trap moisture in the wood.
I quote the 2008 Fleetwood folding trailer brochure:
"Weyerhaeuser agrees with Fleetwood's practice of not coating the exposed bottom surface of the Structurwood panels used in their trailers. In our opinion, moisture from occupancy load, or from other internal or external sources may become trapped in the Structurwood substrate if it is coated on the underside with a system that impairs the ability of the substrate to dry thoroughly. Trapped moisture, over time, may cause premature decay or rot." Weyerhaeuser
I had a Jayco that had OSB wood for the underside. I don't know if it was Structurwood or not. It had a coating on it. Several wafers had peeled and warped. You could tell it had not come that way from Jayco as there was no coating underneath the wafers that had warped. I am left with only the conclusion that water was the cause and might not have had that effect if it were allowed to pass through unimpeded.
I don't see anything wrong with putting a breathable membrane underneath but I sure wouldn't seal it up.
I used Eternabond on the two outside trim strips on the roof of my Jayco before I found a leak. The roof was a one piece so there was no center seam to deal with, thankfully. But those outside edges need attention. That's why I did the Eternabond and never had to worry about it again. Get a good sealant (NOTHING from Home Depot or Lowes, etc) from an RV dealer or supplier online, something like Dicor. The silicone and other sealants at big box stores are not designed for the stresses and flexing of RVs and will fail in shorter periods of time. Surface prep, no matter what you use, is critical in getting a good seal.
Check the plywood for signs of actual damage beyond just being wet, namely, rot. It doesn't take long or much to ruin a good roof.
Nope. Nothing easier to get around it.
The only ways I can think to get around having to pop back up is to:
A) run some water in the black holding tank's vent and subsequent hose on the road side (impractical at best)
B) install a gravity water fill outlet that runs to the holding tank. Just make sure it is water tight as you want those gasses going out the vent stack and not right below your window area.
With the fold-down hard walls of the bathroom on the Avalon, there's not really any way to access the bathroom unless you pop up. Those walls effectively cut off the bathroom doorway when folded down.
Fleetwood/Coleman changed up the plumbing configuration just about every other year but if it's like mine, the gray water (no holding tank) and black water holding tank terminated at the same 4" bayonet outlet. That's a disaster waiting to happen.
I wouldn't recommend the Hydroflush as there's no way to get chemicals back up into the tank.
I have been dumping my black tank and leaving it like that between summer trips for years. There's no need to use chemicals in the first place, at least in my experience. I bought some and used them a time or two but found them to be of no value. YMMV.
Sorry, I just have to roll back to this one.
The risk goes beyond a crack in the vinyl tent!! You could cause serious injury or even death to yourself or others! As a test, send a message or note to the unit's manufacture and ask them if they would recommend it. BB
How do you risk serious injury or even death?
I have camped in snow and wintry conditions before and cannot see how anything I've done could induce injury or death. If you've seen that happening, then I suspect something is being done seriously incorrectly.
How I do it and wonder where the risk is: one to two 120v electric heaters (auto turn off if knocked over) if shore power is available backed up by the onboard furnace. Silver reflective materials stuffed in all windows, extra insulation stuffed in the usual gaps around doors, etc, Popup Gizmos on the bunk ends. We can keep it at 65 degrees inside when it is 30 degrees outside with minimal furnace usage if at all. The heaters are plugged into different 120v AC circuits and nothing have ever given an indication (I've purposefully checked) of overloading or overheating. And even buttoning it up as much as I can, I have never had a condensation issue inside the PUP.
Like others, I will turn on the furnace before taking the PUP down. You have to move quickly as the vinyl will cool down quickly.
And in all of these situations, I have winterized all of the water system. We use containers of water for whatever needs we have.
Posting a picture of the stain could be helpful along with the source of the stain, if known. Different stains can be treated differently. And was that L.A.'s Totally Awesome or Simple Green that you used. For the toughest of stains, L.A.'s Totally Awesome usually does a great job but has it's limitations.
I would be tempted to use lighter fluid (not charcoal starter fluid) as it is a mild petroleum distillate and safe on every plastic I've ever used it on. Failing that, try a light rubbing of acetone on a discrete area to see if it will dissolve the plastic before going after the affected area.
Indeed, painting with Krylon Fusion or other paint designed for plastic would be acceptable after a good surface prep/wash.
We took our first kid camping in Wisconsin in February when he was about 5 months old. It was in a tent with no heat source other than sleeping between Mom and Dad. We would have gone sooner but you just can't drive a tent stake into frozen ground too easily.
We still love telling the story about how our dear daughter, when age 2, reached down as we're packing up the PUP after weekend of camping and picked up an earthworm and popped it into her mouth. She ate half of it before I saw anything. Me, being a father of two now, was about to yell "Stop" when I realized "two birds, one stone"...one less meal to feed and boosting the immune system. Mom, on the other hand, had no problem rapidly encouraging her to spit it out! Ahh, the joys of parenthood. This kind of stuff will happen whether you're camping or not. But make it while you're camping - it's more fun that way.
Go for it as soon as Mom and baby are ready to go. Each kid is different as to when they are sleeping through the night. I would say that's probably the biggest determining factor in my mind. You probably will be very tired for a while with one or both of you getting up for multiple nighttime feedings. Camping is not exactly a most restful time for me, so couple that with additional lack of sleep from baby and you could be really exhausted and not enjoy the time. Or your wife may be the one dealing with exhaustion. Just be aware of each other's situation and make accommodations.
Welcome to the forum and PUP ownership. Sorry I'm late joining the discussion. There's lots of good advice above and you'll find more as you ask additional questions.
For your PUP's manual, go to this link at Popupportal.com. You'll have to create an account to view the manual but also a site full of good advice and information.
This link is to the 2000 Coleman Repair Parts catalog with description and part numbers. It can be very helpful as a troubleshooting reference as well.
Here's a link to Coleman's 2000 Accessories manual. Nice to know what an option was or if you want to add something "original".
The rest of the manuals you might need are going to come from the manufacturer of that component. The lift system will have a manual, if ever needed but the appliances all came from other manufacturers, such as Suburban, Atwood, Shurflo, etc. Do specific searches for them as needed.
A couple of thoughts on the Centurion converter in your PUP. First, it is not a three stage "smart" charger for your battery. Second, every time I hear people mention Centurion, it is usually in reference to having to replace it because it has partially or fully failed. My suggestion is to be prepared at some point in the future to replace it and certainly be on the lookout for any abhorrent electrical behavior.
Welcome aboard and good luck this weekend. Come back and tell us if you had any opportunities to learn something new, either the hard way or the easy way ;) Most of what I learned came via the hard way.