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 > Your search for posts made by 'bondebond' found 55 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Popup tires in Texas Heat (90+)

The issue is sidewall flexing. When the tires are not at full pressure and you are driving highway speeds, the sidewalls are flexing more than they should. The flexing causes heat and builds up, eventually leading to a higher likelihood of a blow out. While there is more than enough opinions on the matter, you'll have to decide what works for you. Two tire blow outs at lower pressure was enough to convince me to stay at max pressure. No problems after that when driving 65mph and under. That included a stint across the Texas panhandle in summer.
bondebond 07/31/15 07:46am Folding Trailers
RE: Wiring diagram for 07 Fleetwood Arcadia?

I'm trying to follow the terms you're using but when you say you used the test light at the outlet, just to be clear, you're talking about the bulb outlet and not some cigarette lighter type of outlet? What about the wires leading INTO the outlet? Do you get power from where those wires come in? Could be just a bad light fixture. And I do have a wiring diagram for 2005 and newer highwalls. Schematic just has a pair of wires labeled "To Ceiling Lights". It has never been helpful at all.
bondebond 07/24/15 01:10pm Folding Trailers
RE: How long should I keep the pop-up open after rain?

It doesn't take long to dry out the surface. The gotcha is when water is trapped in folds and along seams. THAT can take a while, days even, if you don't go out and ensure everything gets exposed to the air. I have left it popped up for three days in the warm weather of Arkansas, only to take it down and have water drip on me from where the vinyl roof was touching the underside of the hard roof, trapping water. That's disappointing.
bondebond 07/14/15 10:25am Folding Trailers
RE: generators?

Bite N Hold, that is a tenuous question, at best. The Honda EU2000i is a very strong unit but it depends on what capacitors are used in the AC units. Carrier AirV might be able to start and run on a single EU2000. The Coleman ACs are pretty much a no-go without changing out the capacitor and even you're running it at max load sustained. I would not chance a $1,000 generator burning out to run the AC. Get a Honda EU3000 and be in the safe zone. 3,000 watts is pretty much the safe minimum you need in either a single generator or in a paired generator setup.
bondebond 07/14/15 10:20am Folding Trailers
RE: Cranking up the top

I don't have any documentation to fall back on, so this is just my thoughts. I would leave it up fully. I do know some that lower theirs back down onto the bars. Either way, I don't think it should hurt anything. Personal preference of mine would be to have it all of the way up and have less possible wrinkles in the tenting that might lead to unintentional leaks. Highly unlikely, but taut is better than loose in this case. If it is resting on the door, that might cause it to warp some over time. And one are we don't need help with is warped doors and frames.
bondebond 07/13/15 03:17pm Folding Trailers
RE: generators?

I guess I need to say a generator to run a microwave and 13,500 ac In order to do so, you're going to need a generator at or in excess of 3,000 watts. Starting up the A/C is hard on the generators as the inrush of current is quite high. I can get my paired paired 2000 watt inverter-based generators to handle it and then have no problem under load. According to the information on the graphic, you could achieve this a couple of ways while using inverter-based generators (much quieter than the open-frame units on the right side of the graphic). You could purchase a Honda/Yamaha/Champion 3000 unit for $1000-21000 but the first two are over one hundred and thirty pounds each and all are difficult to maneuver when loading and unloading. In checking for the weight specs, I noticed actual street prices are even $200 cheaper for some units. Or, you could purchase a pair of smaller generators that have a method of joining them together to produce a higher output than they can individually. They are easier to handle by one person and also allow flexibility in only powering one smaller generator to recharge a deep cycle battery, or combined to power an air conditioner. So you're looking at $2,000 plus sync cable for Honda/Yamaha or $1,200 plus sync cable for Champion. With Champion sharing the same relative operating noise space as Yamaha and Honda for similarly sized capabilities, noise is less of a deciding factor. It comes down to fuel consumption, quality (real and/or perceived), price and other attributes. No generator is quiet and cannot match solar for noise to power generated. Solar has its own limitations and expenses but can be quite a viable alternative for folks NOT needing to power an air conditioner. In order to have air conditioning, a generator is required when shore power is not available. Someone please show me an alternative method for running an A/C when not on shore power. As you have alluded to, please stay away from the open frame generators that people commonly and mistakenly call "contractor generators". They have their place and use, but noise level restrictions in many campgrounds would eliminate most of them. Good luck and ask further questions as they arise. And just a little story to manage expectations - we were camping at almost 10,000 feet altitude and I was running the single 2,000 (1,600 running) watt generator. I'm on the other side of the TV when I hear the generator bog down and almost choke out. I run inside to see what's going on and discover that my wife has decided to take advantage of the generator to run the 1,500 watt microwave. Why the manufacturer put a microwave in the camper that has 500 more watts than my household microwave, I'll never know. Obviously, I stopped that right away. Know that high elevation will reduce the usable wattage due to the effects of less oxygen to feed the combustion of the engine. A 1,600 watt (running) generator won't handle that the higher you go. Of course, at that elevation, who needs an A/C anyway. ;)
bondebond 07/10/15 09:53am Folding Trailers
RE: Popup Conversion

Hiker_01, scary that our thoughts are so in sync.
bondebond 07/06/15 10:14am Folding Trailers
RE: Bear rips into sleeping family's tent trailer

Hard sided trailers are, in some people's minds, enough to stop a bear that is motivated. Hardly. From this thread on RV.net: http://i25.tinypic.com/2lau5bp.jpg or here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39284&thumb=1&d=1313976287 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3503/4044542804_95e5d12234.jpg Then, from elsewhere: Class C: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/uploads/monthly_06_2011/post-2482-130905093013_thumb.jpg Car doors seem to be structurally stronger than the aluminum skin and 1"x1" wood construction of most RVs but even that... (National Park Service picture) http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/images/beardamagetocar_2.jpg Visual evidence would suggest that anything with doors and windows seems to be a welcome mat to a bear with a heightened sense of smell and a hungry stomach or a curious mind.
bondebond 07/06/15 10:12am Folding Trailers
RE: Adding Carrying Rack Above LP Tank?

Adding that much weight isn't adding THAT much weight as not even 100% of what you add will be distributed to the tongue. I have found that my PUP rides much better if I get more towards 15% tongue weight than anything less. I have weighed my tongue and it is ~420 pounds, which is about 14% of GVWR. The actual percentage is technically higher because I don't load quite up to the GVWR of the PUP (3,200 pounds). Other than not making the bracket taller than the top of the wall of the PUP so your bed can slide forward, I don't see any problems. You would want to ensure an adequate bracing design to account for sudden changes in velocity and and direction. You wouldn't want an emergency action to cause it to break loose and go flying across the highway.
bondebond 07/06/15 09:42am Folding Trailers
RE: Using a drill to lift your popup

By the way, do NOT use the impact driver setting when raising the roof or deploying the stabilizer jacks. Others have relayed lift system issues attributed to the pounding of the gear mechanisms from impact drivers. It may be completely an urban myth but I'm not going to find out personally. I have a 19.2v Craftsman hammer drill (set to "drill" mode only) on the low speed setting and it powers through anything I've thrown at it. Not only does it raise the roof which requires a fair amount of power, it raises the BAL light trailer leveler which requires a good bit more power than raising the roof. I also use it to deploy the stabilizers and raise/lower the modified tongue jack. It does this two to three full trips before the LiIon battery needing recharging. I carry a second battery, of course, but have never had to use it. Keep everything well lubed and you should get years of service from a quality drill in this situation.
bondebond 07/01/15 02:23pm Folding Trailers
RE: Ordered Pop Up Gizmo's today...Updated with PICS

I've had them on both of PUPs and firmly believe in them. When I pulled them off of my first PUP to sell, the vinyl roof looked brand new. Good luck and I hope you find them useful. Don't forget that Reflectix in the windows is also a boost to keeping heat out during the summer and in during the winter.
bondebond 06/11/15 01:53pm Folding Trailers
RE: What roof rack do i install?

This is strictly looking at the weight aspect: My PUP's documentation states that the roof can support 150 pounds while raising and lowering the roof, and can carry 250 pounds while in the closed position. With my AC weighing 90 pounds per that manufacturer, that leaves about 160 pounds of cargo weight to be distributed while towing. Be sure to check with what your PUP manufacturer states. I would definitely look at moving the weight contact points towards the side edges as the middle of roof and even the front/rear ends are relatively under-supported for this kind of task.
bondebond 05/26/15 10:20am Folding Trailers
RE: Replacement Awning?

I have seen folks make weights to go on the bottom of their poles that drop to the ground or run rope down to the weights like you would when you could use stakes. This is especially helpful for when you're on asphalt or concrete and cannot drive a stake into the ground. Others have used empty containers for travelling but fill them up with water to make heavy weights. In my experience, there's two general manufacturers of bag awnings used by the industry: Dometic and Carefree Of Colorado. There are some other manufacturers. My first PUP had probably an 8' or 9' awning because it was a 10' box. I would say that it was fairly lightweight as far as quality and heft goes. I want to say it was a Dometic. All support legs were loose and the vertical legs came straight down to the ground, not attaching to the PUP body at all. My current PUP has a 14' box and a 13' awning and has a big difference in design and heft. The legs still come straight to the ground but are permanently attached to the front support bar. Only the horizontal supports (three instead of two due to the overall length) are loose. I would say that the perception of quality is higher with this one. Are they like what you would find on a travel trailer? Nope, not at all. Just remember that whatever weight that is added to the roof, such as a better awning, is weight that the lift system and the person running the crank handle have to deal with.
bondebond 05/21/15 03:04pm Folding Trailers
RE: Hitch Height

I am not sure how an A-frame changes the laws of physics, dynamic loading, weight distribution and other factors. Can you please elaborate on that or the source of the information? I just want to make sure I understand so I don't give out bad advice in the future.
bondebond 05/19/15 01:18pm Folding Trailers
RE: Hitch Height

pnspaces is correct. You are actually in the perfect configuration. You want the front lower than the back.
bondebond 05/18/15 07:36am Folding Trailers
RE: Loving this Pup

Sounds like you're getting the kinks all worked out. It's going to be a refining process for a while. As I was reading about the awning, I'm thinking to myself that you don't need to stow the awning while the PUP is deployed. Just put it away after you lower the PUP when taking it all down. Then I realized you mean while you're still camping. This has been a problem for me as well. We were camping in RMNP a couple of years ago and came back one afternoon to find the awning up on top of the PUP. Two legs were bent but I was able to get them back to usable condition. Since then, I have made straps that tie into stakes that I drive into the ground. I decided to have the straps and stakes come right down next to the legs instead of out at an angle like you see the guy wires on tents. That way, no one is tripping over them. It is not optimal for stability but I haven't encountered a situation that it hasn't worked for yet. I will say that I would not leave the awning up in a severe wind storm. So now we're still back to the problem of how to put the awning away when the weather is too bad to keep it deployed. Mine is particularly a pain as it is a highwall model that has a taller roof height than standard PUPs plus I did an over/under axle modification that added 5.5 additional inches of height overall. I have to stand on a few points of the PUP and hang onto other parts to try to reach the top. I even have a step stool that I bring along because the retractable door step is too high off of the ground. None of that really helps. What I've ended up doing is rolling the horizontal support bars that have the rubber cane tips on them that are against the roof side wall. This produces the action of rolling it forward until enough tension has been released and I can pull the pole down. Repeat for the other three tension poles until the awning can drop to the ground. Well great but I still have to get in and out of the door that's now covered up. A while back, I added velcro strips inside the bag as this one did not come with any. I can roll the awning up, stand on the door threshold and just reach up enough to secure the middle velcro straps around the rolled up awning. I can then get one or two more straps secured. Thus far, that has been enough to get the job done until the weather passes. Since the awning is rolled up into a heavy dense roll, it hasn't flapped around. Everyone's situation is different but there just isn't a perfect solution as currently designed. I've toyed around with the idea of using ropes looped around the awning to roll it up sort of like pulleys but haven't done anything with it as it is so infrequently a problem. Definitely get the Popup Gizmos and look at adding Reflectix in the windows that face the afternoon sun. I ended up with a less than perfect but very cheap solution of using the shiny aluminum car windshield shades stuffed between the clear vinyl windows and the outside mesh. I'm glad you're enjoying it and keep sharing the discoveries.
bondebond 05/11/15 10:40am Folding Trailers
RE: Popup lift handle question

That would be me (and several others) that have used a Dremel to a socket. I forget the size I ended up using but it was a deep socket plus 3/8" socket extension somewhere along 6 inches. This $3 adapter set from Harbor Freight plus an extension and a deep socket are all you need once you use the Dremel to cut opposing notches in the socket to allow for the pins. Obviously your existing crank is the perfect example of how to make it look.
bondebond 05/08/15 04:37pm Folding Trailers
RE: Storms

radio reports telling you to seek shelter A PUP is not shelter in this regard. Every RV is up off the ground, meaning wind can get under it. A PUP has wings in addition to being relatively light weight. Don't chance it - get out and seek real shelter. If your spidey sense is tingling and others are telling you to seek shelter, better not wait for the weather to say "told you so." We've ridden out some very strong thunderstorms in the PUP. Once, with the winds going but not enough to mess with the PUP, we got out because there were trees above us and branches do fall under those conditions. Everything was fine but there's no guarantee.
bondebond 05/01/15 08:33am Folding Trailers
RE: Storing your "stinky slinky"

I put mine in a customized storage compartment mounted on the rear bumper. http://www.pbase.com/ebond/image/144788496/medium.jpg Ok, so it's really just an ammo can but the bottom is lined with rubber to reduce wear and tear on the walls of the discharge hose. I rinse out the hose, stuff it in the box and snap the lid on. I just open up the lid when I get home and let it all dry out. How I place it in there keeps all of the liquids within the hose and nothing dribbling out. It's been working great for years. It handles the 20' section just fine but wouldn't work for anything longer.
bondebond 04/22/15 03:29pm Travel Trailers
RE: Radio doesn't really turn off in 07 Fleetwood Arcadia

I installed a switch under the galley right behind where the radio mounts. In fact, that's all of the wiring behind it that Fleetwood did. I just interrupted the full-time power wire with this switch. http://www.pbase.com/ebond/image/144788528/medium.jpg We have never used it when camping and I only turn it on when working on the PUP at home in the shop. The kids thought for the longest time that the radio was broken and quick asking me if we could turn it on, which was an extra bonus. This way, it does drain the battery.
bondebond 04/22/15 08:17am Folding Trailers
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