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 > Your search for posts made by 'bondebond' found 63 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Popup Conversion

Hiker_01, scary that our thoughts are so in sync.
bondebond 07/06/15 10:14am Folding Trailers
RE: Bear rips into sleeping family's tent trailer

Hard sided trailers are, in some people's minds, enough to stop a bear that is motivated. Hardly. From this thread on RV.net: http://i25.tinypic.com/2lau5bp.jpg or here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39284&thumb=1&d=1313976287 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3503/4044542804_95e5d12234.jpg Then, from elsewhere: Class C: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/uploads/monthly_06_2011/post-2482-130905093013_thumb.jpg Car doors seem to be structurally stronger than the aluminum skin and 1"x1" wood construction of most RVs but even that... (National Park Service picture) http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/images/beardamagetocar_2.jpg Visual evidence would suggest that anything with doors and windows seems to be a welcome mat to a bear with a heightened sense of smell and a hungry stomach or a curious mind.
bondebond 07/06/15 10:12am Folding Trailers
RE: Adding Carrying Rack Above LP Tank?

Adding that much weight isn't adding THAT much weight as not even 100% of what you add will be distributed to the tongue. I have found that my PUP rides much better if I get more towards 15% tongue weight than anything less. I have weighed my tongue and it is ~420 pounds, which is about 14% of GVWR. The actual percentage is technically higher because I don't load quite up to the GVWR of the PUP (3,200 pounds). Other than not making the bracket taller than the top of the wall of the PUP so your bed can slide forward, I don't see any problems. You would want to ensure an adequate bracing design to account for sudden changes in velocity and and direction. You wouldn't want an emergency action to cause it to break loose and go flying across the highway.
bondebond 07/06/15 09:42am Folding Trailers
RE: Using a drill to lift your popup

By the way, do NOT use the impact driver setting when raising the roof or deploying the stabilizer jacks. Others have relayed lift system issues attributed to the pounding of the gear mechanisms from impact drivers. It may be completely an urban myth but I'm not going to find out personally. I have a 19.2v Craftsman hammer drill (set to "drill" mode only) on the low speed setting and it powers through anything I've thrown at it. Not only does it raise the roof which requires a fair amount of power, it raises the BAL light trailer leveler which requires a good bit more power than raising the roof. I also use it to deploy the stabilizers and raise/lower the modified tongue jack. It does this two to three full trips before the LiIon battery needing recharging. I carry a second battery, of course, but have never had to use it. Keep everything well lubed and you should get years of service from a quality drill in this situation.
bondebond 07/01/15 02:23pm Folding Trailers
RE: Ordered Pop Up Gizmo's today...Updated with PICS

I've had them on both of PUPs and firmly believe in them. When I pulled them off of my first PUP to sell, the vinyl roof looked brand new. Good luck and I hope you find them useful. Don't forget that Reflectix in the windows is also a boost to keeping heat out during the summer and in during the winter.
bondebond 06/11/15 01:53pm Folding Trailers
RE: What roof rack do i install?

This is strictly looking at the weight aspect: My PUP's documentation states that the roof can support 150 pounds while raising and lowering the roof, and can carry 250 pounds while in the closed position. With my AC weighing 90 pounds per that manufacturer, that leaves about 160 pounds of cargo weight to be distributed while towing. Be sure to check with what your PUP manufacturer states. I would definitely look at moving the weight contact points towards the side edges as the middle of roof and even the front/rear ends are relatively under-supported for this kind of task.
bondebond 05/26/15 10:20am Folding Trailers
RE: Replacement Awning?

I have seen folks make weights to go on the bottom of their poles that drop to the ground or run rope down to the weights like you would when you could use stakes. This is especially helpful for when you're on asphalt or concrete and cannot drive a stake into the ground. Others have used empty containers for travelling but fill them up with water to make heavy weights. In my experience, there's two general manufacturers of bag awnings used by the industry: Dometic and Carefree Of Colorado. There are some other manufacturers. My first PUP had probably an 8' or 9' awning because it was a 10' box. I would say that it was fairly lightweight as far as quality and heft goes. I want to say it was a Dometic. All support legs were loose and the vertical legs came straight down to the ground, not attaching to the PUP body at all. My current PUP has a 14' box and a 13' awning and has a big difference in design and heft. The legs still come straight to the ground but are permanently attached to the front support bar. Only the horizontal supports (three instead of two due to the overall length) are loose. I would say that the perception of quality is higher with this one. Are they like what you would find on a travel trailer? Nope, not at all. Just remember that whatever weight that is added to the roof, such as a better awning, is weight that the lift system and the person running the crank handle have to deal with.
bondebond 05/21/15 03:04pm Folding Trailers
RE: Hitch Height

I am not sure how an A-frame changes the laws of physics, dynamic loading, weight distribution and other factors. Can you please elaborate on that or the source of the information? I just want to make sure I understand so I don't give out bad advice in the future.
bondebond 05/19/15 01:18pm Folding Trailers
RE: Hitch Height

pnspaces is correct. You are actually in the perfect configuration. You want the front lower than the back.
bondebond 05/18/15 07:36am Folding Trailers
RE: Loving this Pup

Sounds like you're getting the kinks all worked out. It's going to be a refining process for a while. As I was reading about the awning, I'm thinking to myself that you don't need to stow the awning while the PUP is deployed. Just put it away after you lower the PUP when taking it all down. Then I realized you mean while you're still camping. This has been a problem for me as well. We were camping in RMNP a couple of years ago and came back one afternoon to find the awning up on top of the PUP. Two legs were bent but I was able to get them back to usable condition. Since then, I have made straps that tie into stakes that I drive into the ground. I decided to have the straps and stakes come right down next to the legs instead of out at an angle like you see the guy wires on tents. That way, no one is tripping over them. It is not optimal for stability but I haven't encountered a situation that it hasn't worked for yet. I will say that I would not leave the awning up in a severe wind storm. So now we're still back to the problem of how to put the awning away when the weather is too bad to keep it deployed. Mine is particularly a pain as it is a highwall model that has a taller roof height than standard PUPs plus I did an over/under axle modification that added 5.5 additional inches of height overall. I have to stand on a few points of the PUP and hang onto other parts to try to reach the top. I even have a step stool that I bring along because the retractable door step is too high off of the ground. None of that really helps. What I've ended up doing is rolling the horizontal support bars that have the rubber cane tips on them that are against the roof side wall. This produces the action of rolling it forward until enough tension has been released and I can pull the pole down. Repeat for the other three tension poles until the awning can drop to the ground. Well great but I still have to get in and out of the door that's now covered up. A while back, I added velcro strips inside the bag as this one did not come with any. I can roll the awning up, stand on the door threshold and just reach up enough to secure the middle velcro straps around the rolled up awning. I can then get one or two more straps secured. Thus far, that has been enough to get the job done until the weather passes. Since the awning is rolled up into a heavy dense roll, it hasn't flapped around. Everyone's situation is different but there just isn't a perfect solution as currently designed. I've toyed around with the idea of using ropes looped around the awning to roll it up sort of like pulleys but haven't done anything with it as it is so infrequently a problem. Definitely get the Popup Gizmos and look at adding Reflectix in the windows that face the afternoon sun. I ended up with a less than perfect but very cheap solution of using the shiny aluminum car windshield shades stuffed between the clear vinyl windows and the outside mesh. I'm glad you're enjoying it and keep sharing the discoveries.
bondebond 05/11/15 10:40am Folding Trailers
RE: Popup lift handle question

That would be me (and several others) that have used a Dremel to a socket. I forget the size I ended up using but it was a deep socket plus 3/8" socket extension somewhere along 6 inches. This $3 adapter set from Harbor Freight plus an extension and a deep socket are all you need once you use the Dremel to cut opposing notches in the socket to allow for the pins. Obviously your existing crank is the perfect example of how to make it look.
bondebond 05/08/15 04:37pm Folding Trailers
RE: Storms

radio reports telling you to seek shelter A PUP is not shelter in this regard. Every RV is up off the ground, meaning wind can get under it. A PUP has wings in addition to being relatively light weight. Don't chance it - get out and seek real shelter. If your spidey sense is tingling and others are telling you to seek shelter, better not wait for the weather to say "told you so." We've ridden out some very strong thunderstorms in the PUP. Once, with the winds going but not enough to mess with the PUP, we got out because there were trees above us and branches do fall under those conditions. Everything was fine but there's no guarantee.
bondebond 05/01/15 08:33am Folding Trailers
RE: Storing your "stinky slinky"

I put mine in a customized storage compartment mounted on the rear bumper. http://www.pbase.com/ebond/image/144788496/medium.jpg Ok, so it's really just an ammo can but the bottom is lined with rubber to reduce wear and tear on the walls of the discharge hose. I rinse out the hose, stuff it in the box and snap the lid on. I just open up the lid when I get home and let it all dry out. How I place it in there keeps all of the liquids within the hose and nothing dribbling out. It's been working great for years. It handles the 20' section just fine but wouldn't work for anything longer.
bondebond 04/22/15 03:29pm Travel Trailers
RE: Radio doesn't really turn off in 07 Fleetwood Arcadia

I installed a switch under the galley right behind where the radio mounts. In fact, that's all of the wiring behind it that Fleetwood did. I just interrupted the full-time power wire with this switch. http://www.pbase.com/ebond/image/144788528/medium.jpg We have never used it when camping and I only turn it on when working on the PUP at home in the shop. The kids thought for the longest time that the radio was broken and quick asking me if we could turn it on, which was an extra bonus. This way, it does drain the battery.
bondebond 04/22/15 08:17am Folding Trailers
RE: Need to have two holes in my roof repaired - Jayco 1206

I used Dicor to fill in a couple of holes I put in my baby. I used the self-leveling lap sealant. Then I put Eternabond over the spot. I can be reasonably sure that NO water is getting in there. Surface prep is everything though.
bondebond 04/21/15 11:03am Folding Trailers
RE: Loving this Pup

Welcome to the fold (pun intended). Various folks like to make a big deal about taking down in the rain and having to set it back up at home. It has happened to me a few times and thus far, hasn't been a big deal. I'll either raise it up as far as I can in the garage and pull out all of the tenting or actually set it fully up in the driveway. Either way, a couple of days later and it is dry. If you do this inside the garage, realize that folds of the tenting can trap water so you need to move things around a big to expose all surfaces so they can dry properly. My preferred method is to set it up in the driveway, weather permitting. Enjoy the process of thinning out the stuff you bring and prioritizing. When I switched PUPs, I made an exercise of evaluating everything from the old PUP before just stuffing it into the new one. I ended up with a pile in the corner of the garage of stuff that should have been useful or neat but ended up never being used. A couple of years later, that stuff is still in the corner of the garage. I guess I need to send it on its way. We enjoy cooking and eating outside so we make use of the indoor/outdoor table, the attachable grill and awning (if I've paid attention to the forecast and deployed it during set up). We do always bring along an EZup for over the picnic table but often just gets stored under the PUP when camping until needed. With reducing what we bring and having a PUP with too much storage (strange to say but true), we no longer have to shuffle duffle bags around inside much and certainly do not make any trips to and from the TV while camping. This was a HUGE difference between our first PUP and this one. In the first one, we were always, constantly and frustratingly having to move bags around inside and make runs to/from the TV. Getting the right set up makes all the difference in enjoyment. Most important to enjoyment are your attitude and preparations. Prepare things in advance and decide to enjoy the experience even when it goes sour is a great way to ensure a good time. Happy camping and let us know how your first camping in the PUP turns out.
bondebond 04/21/15 08:40am Folding Trailers
RE: Fleetwood arcadia power lift wiring help needed

Please do point out the "snarky" comment(s) . I see nothing above that was said with anything other than useful and helpful suggestions intended. While I may have misunderstood what the particular issue the OP was asking about, it hardly was "snarky" or useless based on the information provided in the one post, all of which is filtered by our own understanding of that information. You have the benefit of reading the follow up posts with clarifying comments. I am questioning the usefulness of your particular post. How is your comment not the very thing you complain about?
bondebond 04/15/15 07:58am Folding Trailers
RE: Fleetwood arcadia power lift wiring help needed

I can't give you the direct answer but a trip just about any store with an automotive section, electrical section or household hardware will give you the option to buy a multi-tester, usually $25 to $40 for digital. Doing anything electrical on the PUP will greatly benefit from the use of a multi-tester, aka multi-meter. With that in your had, you will know which wire is which. And it is useful for troubleshooting numerous other electrical issues, especially problem with a ground wire shorting out which is all too common. On the tester, red is positive, black is negative. If you get a negative value on the display, then you know that your red tester lead is connected to a negative wire and your black tester lead is connected to a positive wire. I keep a Harbor Freight $8 special in the tool box inside the PUP. I've checked it against high end multi-testers and it is accurate enough for what I need on the PUP.
bondebond 04/09/15 10:51am Folding Trailers
RE: Fleetwood manual crank parts question

The hose clamp idea was the first thing to come to mind when I saw a better detailed picture. I'd say run with it until you can't and keep a couple of spare clamps with you in case you need them in the field. I assume this isn't the primary method for you to raise and lower the roof. If so, I would definitely buy the replacement part.
bondebond 04/02/15 08:37am Folding Trailers
RE: New to me Fleetwood Arcadia- Power roof problme solved

Oh yes, please do not raise or lower the roof plugged into 120v AC power, according to the manufacturer. The official warning label from Fleetwood that was added to PUPs after the issue was firmly documented reads: DO NOT OPERATE THE POWERED ROOF LIFT WITH THE TRAILER'S POWER CORD PLUGGED INTO ANY 110VAC POWER SOURCE. USE A 12VDC BATTERY SOURCE ONLY TO OPERATE THE POWERED ROOF LIFT ACCESSORY. IF OPERATED WITH 110VAC, THE TRAILER CONVERTER WILL NOT SUPPLY SUFFICIENT VOLTAGE WHICH COULD DAMAGE COMPONENTS IN THE LIFT MECHANISM; RESULTING IN THE POTENTIAL FALL OF THE ROOF. FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH THIS OPERATION REQUIREMENT MAY RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY, VEHICLE AND/OR OTHER PROPERTY DAMAGE." (Part # 4768-191) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cZ4-z26X1fY/TgFgCkYpwGI/AAAAAAAAAUA/TDQHT-HXGEw/s400/DSCN0731.JPG
bondebond 03/26/15 02:25pm Folding Trailers
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