The tops of the bunk ends are vinyl. It will feel like plastic on the outside (has a slight leather-like texture) but look like woven plastic fabric on the inside. The sides are indeed Sunbrella.
While I am not familiar with the performance or other aspects of that product, looking at the details/specs, Type B is what you want.
Once fabrics no longer maintain water repellency on their own, you can use 303's High Tech Fabric Guard, found here.
I just did this on my Fleetwood's Sunbrella, which is a woven fabric and is in fact specified for use by Fleetwood and Sunbrella for restoring and maintaining canvas and other materials water proof.
Unlike other products, this will not affect the breathability of the canvas and does not suffer many of the undesirable effects of silicone based waterproofers.
The trick I found when applying it and not having overspray is to gently pull the trigger on the spray bottle, slowly and steadily.
I had a good validation of its effectiveness when I was interrupted during application and had a rain the following day. I was half-way through a panel when I had to stop. The half without HTFG was wet, wicking moisture into it but not all the way through it, as you would expect canvas or similar material to perform. The section that had the 303 HTFG had water balling up on the outside with no signs of absorbing any moisture at all, shedding it at the slightest bump but it still is breathable. I was convinced and am now thinking about using it on my tent, my rain ponchos (fabric), etc.
The downside - it is expensive. I went through four 16 oz. bottles at $15 ea. from my local Ace Hardware. I bought out their stock and had them order another bottle so I could finish. But now I have every confidence that the material sections will not leak.
On the vinyl sections, I had previously used 303's Aerospace Protectant and those sections look brand new and have UV protection for a couple of months.
For me ,to get a new axle, brake controller(which I hate the thought of mounting in my vehicle), battery and mounting and all the wiring and my time, I think I will stick with what is working now.
This is the kind of thinking that gets us in trouble more often than not. It's the times when it all goes wrong and I don't have all of the safety or backup equipment I need that is the worst kinds of situations. It is similar to insurance - you never expect to need it but when you do, you are thankful you DO have it. The big difference here is that having or not having insurance generally does not affect other people in the heat of the moment. Having or not having trailer brakes CAN harm other people beyond the occupants of our TVs.
As for what brake setup you need, you will have to verify the model number and subsequent capacity of the axle. There's a better than good chance that it is a Dexter axle. It should have a label on the axle tube, often on the top side of the axle tube. My guess is that it is a 3,500 pound axle. If so, the appropriate kit for you would be a 10" assembly, Dexter Brake Assemblies PDF, K23-454-00 and K23-455-00 but verify, along with a hub-drum kit if your hub does not already have an integrated drum, Hub PDF, like K-08-247-94. Again, verify all of these are the proper items for your particular set up.
See https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Brakes-sf-Electric_Drum_Brakes.aspx for a list of brake parts. Since my hubs already have drums, I just needed the 10" LH and RH brake assemblies (Code 23-26 and 23-27 respectively, $36 each). If you need hubs with drums, see http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Hubs_and_Drums.aspx
Add to it a break-away switch (if you have a PUP battery already) for $7-$10, or one with a dedicated battery ($30-$50), brake controller like a Prodigy P2 and appropriate wiring.
With all of that above, you're about $325 with shipping plus misc. supplies.
If I hadn't sold my first PUP before realizing the importance of trailer brakes, I would have added them, and it was a relatively light weight trailer at 1,600 pounds. There's no guarantee in life that this will or won't save me in a bad situation, but age is teaching me to at least set myself up for success instead of hoping "as is" works well enough, especially with my precious cargo aboard, let alone thinking of others' safety.
With a GVWR of almost 3,000 pounds, I would definitely look to see if there are the square mounting plates right next to the axle hubs that are for brakes. If they exist on your current axle, it is a fairly simple matter, DIY, to add them. If the mounting plates are not there, I would consider fixing that as well. A trailer/axle shop can resolve that.
Regardless, I would put brakes on - without a doubt.
Sounds like you had quite a good time. We're just starting to get back into camping as the summers around here are so oppressive with the humidity. We love fall camping and even into overnight lows in the 30s. I still sweated around the campfire last weekend.
Eventually, probably around Thanksgiving, we'll turn it in for the winter but we've been known to pull it out and just go water-free for a spontaneous weekender.
I would strongly suggest a new, recent model converter rather than trying to find anything like the original equipment.
Best Converter would be an excellent source for a new one. They have great pre- and post-sales support so don't be afraid to use the "Ask Randy" button anything.
My suggestion would be a WFCO model WF-8715 (15 amps) or WF-8725 (25 amps) for $100.
I replaced an Elixir 12 with a WF-8715 and really liked the upgrade to a three-stage smart charger.
Of course, more capacity for circuits and charging can be found in the WF-8935 but you're into $150 at that point.
My Jayco had not onboard storage options for the travel door, so I just leaned it against the rear bump with the "inside" of the door facing under the PUP so that if any rain and dirt splattered, it most hit the outside.
Occasionally, I left the travel door on but the screen door would hit it and caused a hole in the screening to develop. I stopped doing that right away and stored the door.
You may be new, here BB, but not to the world of PUPing.
I've seen a goodly number of front storage box rebuilds or even cutting off the rotting box and turning it into a cargo deck due to lid and weatherproofing failures leading to water damage. It would be nice to have one but I would take steps to ensure it stays dry, just as I did with my roof.
I would only recommend using brakes, never suggesting otherwise. I only wish I had put them on my "lightweight" PUP as I had a couple of close calls thanks to other folks not realizing what it takes to stop short.
It is a combination of adjusting the brake controller voltage AND the brake gap adjustment. If you are locking up the brakes with a relatively low voltage, then open up the adjustment on the brake a little.
In my current situation, I cannot get the brakes to lock up for anything. Of course, Prodigy says that can be the case and it is normal. I can most definitely tell that the trailer brakes work and work well.
Also look intently at the ceiling and the side walls of the roof for any bubbling of the vinyl cover, any signs of rot or water intrusion on the wood. Underneath whatever exterior covering is on the outside (typically aluminum or fiberglass of some sort) is usually plywood to make up the side walls of the roof. Check over all of that.
Look for water leaks around any plumbing under the sink and other water fixtures, including the pump and water heater.
Look for signs of mold in the corners, under the beds on the OSB/plywood bottoms, any place there is canvas/vinyl.
Walk on all areas of the floor and look for any place that gives. There will flexing and that is natural, but if something feels a bit squishy, check it out on the underside as well.
BTW, if you're not sensing it - water damage is often the biggest factor in longevity of PUPs.
Look for holes in the vinyl or canvas fabric.
Make sure all appliances work, demonstrated.
Overall condition and then some specifics to pay attention to. Tires are a commodity and need replacing every 4-5 years regardless of use. Brakes, if equipped need inspection. Bearings need greasing - when was the last time the seller did this?
Check the roof - is it sloping towards the middle, either front-to-back or side-to-side?
There's a host of other things to consider but you just have look at it closely and as best you can. Like I said, water is the most common failure reason of many aspects of a PUP.
My favorite answer from vendors trying to answer my questions about their product: "It depends".
What kind of axle do you currently have on your PUP? What Make, model and year is your PUP?
It is possible to easily add brakes yourself if the small, square mounting plate is already there. Look just behind the wheel for about a 6"x6" plate on the axle mounted parallel to the wheel and has four holes in the corners.
If not, you'll need to probably take it to a trailer shop and have them weld on the mount and might as well have them install the brakes while they're at it.
We appreciate your awareness of the safety factor, as would anyone with you during a "situation".
Y'all need to leave this ole country boy alone 'fore I get up and go Ozark on you. (Around here, that doesn't mean anything but it sounded cool.)
Oh I love it, just don't like calling it that since no axle was flipped in the raising of this PUP.
(muttering about flipped axle...grrr)
Having towed a standard height PUP and high wall PUP, there are definitely some differences. I cannot see over or around the high wall whereas I could use my rear and side mirrors on the standard height. Only the A/C blocked any views at that time.
Now, with HW, I have to use mirror extensions and see nothing but white paneling when looking at the rear view mirror.
If your TV is the same one from towing the HTT, you may like it again. As BigBaron mentioned, my HW PUP is taller than the profile of my 4Runner (thank goodness it's a V8). I took a hit on gas mileage due to more wind resistance and nearly 1,000 pounds heavier than my first PUP.
But I must say - it is WELL worth it for the major and minor differences. I pretty much have most all of the features of an HTT except overhead cabinets and a tub. I have more storage capacity than I have stuff.
And nicely enough, it fits in my garage. Anyway, a HW is quite a viable option. You're already familiar with canvas/vinyl bunks. You just have to add some cranking up and down, depending on the options and floor plan.
I can't point you at anything directly but I can say that, in my opinion, it is one of the easiest designs to work with. Jayco does route the cables through the walls, so if you're pulling old ones out, attach the new ones to the old as you pull. The four cables terminate at a plate that is attached to the crank. You can buy the crank if that needs replacing, or take it to a metal shop for repairs.
Here's a picture of the Jayco lift.
Let us know what you find out.
For the $1,000 asking price, 1996 year model and an iffy crank, I would probably pass. They want you to call, so do not reveal much, if any, personal ID. It's not too far from Calgary but have them send you pictures to your phone. Since they used a Kijiji mobile app, they certainly have the ability.
Check it out, but be paranoid. I would go with a name that people recognize for a reason...they made enough trailers to make an impression (Coleman/Fleetwood, Rockwood, Palomino, etc).
And every time I find anything about Haycocks that has a picture, it is of a vintage Jayco.