I have reflective material under my mattresses year round on both bunks and have never noticed a moisture problem above or below the reflective material. I do seasonal checks looking for signs of moisture damage throughout and have noted no changes in the OSB below. That isn't saying we don't have moisture build up, but not that I can feel personally nor see in the bed components.
A lot mileage varies here but I've also never had any condensation build-up overall inside either one of our PUPs, and I don't open anything for ventilation. In fact, I've made efforts to seal up the holes and crevices especially for the cooler weather camping we like to do. But moisture is obviously getting out somehow. I know others have had to open windows quite commonly.
I use High Wind PUGs on the bunk ends, reflective material under each mattresses and the car windshield shades in the windows (mostly to darken the sleeping areas for DS who wakes up at the slightest sign of light) depending on hot or cold weather conditions. For winter camping, I use one to two electric heaters on separate circuits that can maintain an inside temperature of 65 with outside temps in the 30s. I do keep the onboard furnace turned on but the thermostat is set to 50 just in case the electric heaters can't keep up. I've never had the furnace need to do that in this configuration. I'd rather be using the electricity I paid for as part of the site than the LP I have to refill as needed.
My Toyota 4Runner is no better with a 7,000 pound tow capacity. Even loading up presents and luggage for Christmas this year makes it sag, much less actually towing anything. I definitely think of it as the Sag Wagon.
I did the same at Brad T and installed the rear coil air bags. They worked great for a while and actually gave the rear a lift of about 2" when not towing. Unfortunately, a leak has developed somewhere and I haven't had time nor inclination to track it down yet.
That door is definitely wider. The angle of the ramp is pretty steep and I was curious about the interior layout so I followed the link to the listing. It looks like Coleman left an area just to the right of the door between the door and the front bunk for wheelchair storage. Pretty nice.
Do us a favor and slow down long enough to organize your thoughts. Your last post was quite all over the map without the map.
Which one is new "09/15/14" and which one is new "10/15/15"?
Model year.. and delivery year are ...The same??? having researched as best I can...Quite tired of it.. I can say with a smile.. Have a wife ..kids ..and delivery.. with them....fit and finish. Excellent... !
I am sorry but I cannot follow what it is you're going for here. I'm not trying to be mean spirited but I cannot figure out how to help because I cannot figure out the message.
Owning a camper is quite a different situation than backpack or tent camping. I still enjoy all of them and just had a great weekend with my son last weekend, backpacking and camping on some beautiful land. You really look to minimize weight and complexity when you have to carry it on your own back.
Campers are a whole other beast. Your "adventures" are only just beginning. Just getting the RV off of the dealer's lot is only the beginning. Expect to make a few dealership visits within the first year to have various things corrected unless you decide to handle them yourself. Then you will definitely be bemoaning the "dog and pony show". Hang in there. Relax. It will be a bumpy but hopefully an enjoyable ride.
1 1/2 hours should have been plenty of time/opportunity for 'how does this work, how does that work, show me.......etc.
Buyer beware/entry level......has nothing to do with whether it is a 'decent' unit or not.
Buyer beware..means ask/inquire PRIOR to purchase
Entry level....means it is a basic functional unit lacking all the bells and whistles.
Using a entry level Newmar Class A as reference when talking pop-up tent camper is disingenuous
You bought a basic functional camper and are now unhappy with some of it's features......upgrade the fridge to the Dometic fridge that is an 'option'
Course that will cost more.
Many "first time buyers" of an RV don't even know what questions to ask & the Dealer (sales person) isn't going to mention the negative features of what they are selling, entry level or not. I think the 12 volt system is probably the most misunderstood feature of an RV. Many of us that have owned one for a while, didn't really learn about it, but through experience.
OP is NOT a 'first time RV buyer".....just a first time pop-up.
They had a Newmar Class A previously.
And a quick glance at that 'cooler' would have been a clue that there isn't much in the way of controls........only knob on it is a thermostat setting. PeriodI still don't see how any of that justifies being rude. You provide a lot of good information and bring a lot to the forums. I don't see how ridiculing someone is beneficial to them or the forum at large. It creates a hostile environment and quickly runs off people. If not to help and share information, why post?
JLTN_James, who are you calling a senior??? Wait, nevermind.
Let's dial back the inter-generational angst, folks. Everyone looks at the other age groups and are baffled by the decisions of all. It's the nature of life but doesn't call for ridicule or sarcasm.
It has long frustrated me that there are a number of folks on RV.net that will make a negative comment or observation about a post and others just pile on.
Especially if the person is asking an honest question, don't ridicule or belittle them. They wouldn't have posted if they weren't seeking help. Those with superior experience and knowledge can provide it without having an attitude of superiority. It used to be called common courtesy. I'm not sure it's called anything anymore.
I have to agree with lfloom. When I had to do mine, I used heavy duty upholstery thread and the speedy awl. I'd rather lengthen the time between repairs by using the longest lasting components.
And I too have had fishing line supported picture frames come down after a while. I had to buy a new custom frame and glass. Grrr.
Thanks to RoyB for inspiring me to start a thread so I will share a little about last weekend's camping.
Issues prevented us from pulling out to go camping Friday evening, so up and at it Saturday morning.
With less time to do the usual "camping things" I pulled out all of the stops on making set up time go as quickly as possible. We backed in the long highwall without getting out. We hopped out of the TV, deployed the kids on their tasks, used the drill for the tongue jack, the BAL leveler, the roof and the stabilizers. I pulled the blue tote out from the carrier I built under the rear bumper and hooked it up to the gray water discharge. DW hooks up the electrical. I tossed the isle junk out the door and the DW, DS and DD squared it away outside. We were like busy little ants situating everything around the camp site. We were done, including setting up the inside, in under 30 minutes.
The whole time this is going on, I notice that our neighbor (PUP owner) and his three grown sons were watching, sometimes out of the corner of their eyes, sometimes full-on. They were enjoying a nice, leisurely pace to their weekend so we had to look like a circus. Their camp site was set up with a nice but smaller and simpler PUP, tripod over the fire, percolator on it making coffee. It felt nice and relaxed. I was a bit wistful.
Anyway, we struck up a conversation that evening when the father asked me to take their picture. The boys were wearing swords and everyone was dressed up in some period costume. Turns out the youngest had recently turned 18 and they were performing a coming of age ritual as found in the book "Raising A Modern Day Night". The boys were all very respectful, ranging in age 22 to 18. It was very encouraging to see a father spending his life to instruct his sons in how to become men with honor and integrity and for it to be evident in their lives.
Ok, that was quite a bit of rambling but you just never know who you're going to run into while camping.
What stories do you have of being out camping?
While forum participation is seasonal even for me, the Folding Trailers section has seen an overall drop in usage in the last year or two. We used to spill over into the second page of threads with new posts within a day. It was a little hard to keep up when I first joined years ago. Now, we get maybe 5 to 10 threads updated in a day during the summer height.
Not that I don't have questions but I more often take to fixing something and trying it out than so much research. I guess increased confidence can be a dangerous thing.
I've also taken to posting less about things I don't know directly or have read about sufficiently. So I guess my overall postings have dropped dramatically.
It would be most helpful if you could at least provide the year, make and model of the PUP. There are so many possibilities that it's like walking into an auto parts store and asking for "the rubber piece for the old car sitting out on my back 40 acres."
Taking a quick look at 2014 actual specifications reveals the following manufacturer-supplied information using the two largest producing manufacturers:
Rockwood highwall series: 2,806-3,738 pounds dry; 3,741-6,055 pounds GVWR
4 models: all are above 3,500 GVWR
Rockwood hard side series: 1,893-2186 pounds dry; 2,898-3,816 pounds GVWR
9 models: 7 of which have GVWR of 3,200 or less
Rockwood Premier series: 2,445-2,555 pounds dry; 3,339-3,351 pounds GVWR
4 models: all are less than 3,400 GVWR
Rockwood Freedom series: 1,344-2,975 pounds dry; 2,027-5,292 pounds GVWR
13 models: 9 of which have GVWR of around 3,000 or less
Jayco Jay Series: 1,800-2,415 pounds dry; 2,550-4,550 pounds GVWR
4 models: 2 less than 3,000 GVWR and another at 3,450 GVWR
Jayco Jay Series Sport: 1,200-2,385 pounds dry; 1,995-4,150 pounds GVWR
7 models: 6 less than 3,300 GVWR
Of the models above, 22 were 2,050 pounds or less dry. More than half of the new PUP models are around or below 2,000.
I use my Craftsman 19.2V cordless drill (465 in. pounds of torque), a deep socket from my local hardware store with notches cut in it to match the end of the manual hand crank, a 6" socket extension and this $3 set of socket adapters for a drill from Harbor Freight. I don't have to have the secondary handle on the drill to use it but it is helpful and since I already have it, I use it.
It is used to crank the tongue jack for hitching, crank the roof up and down, run the stabilizers and the biggest workout: the BAL light trailer leveler. The leveler requires the most torque by far, even with a 14' roof with air conditioner on it. Lithium batteries are best. And the BAL does require a switch in socket size but I have a deep socket unmodified just for it that rides in the utility storage compartment. I should take a picture sometime...
I've always captured my water but I don't see a technical problem using the cap with a garden hose. I've thought about a much smaller version of a gray water tote (like a 6 gal Aquatainer) and the garden hose adapter.
I only got those caps because that's all that was available at the time.
Look up under before spending much time researching holding tanks to add on. There's cables, floor braces, fresh water tank and the roof lift mechanism that are all blocking areas that you could install a gray holding tank. The hinges of that carrier I show above is actually anchored to the cover of the whiffletree box. That's all that was available.
I have a 2006 Fleetwood Highlander Sequoya so let me speak from experience.
Yes, there is a 6 gallon black holding tank. A real one with real 4" bayonet fitted drain outlet.
You are correct in that the gray water line also terminates at this same outlet and there is no gray water holding tank. Your blue tote IS the gray water holding tank.
When setting up at camp, pull your blue tote around and connect it via typical sewer hose to the outlet and open the blade valve for the smaller gray line that feeds into the outlet. That gray line is supplied by the kitchen sink and the shower drain. Just leave the blade valve open all of the time until it comes time to dump your blue tote. Close the valve and take the tote somewhere appropriate for dumping. While that is gone, the sink can be used for a minimal amount but not recommended. The plumbing holds about half a gallon before it will start to come up through the floor drain of the shower. Yes, I've seen it happen.
When you're ready to dump the black tank, you have two options. 1) unhook and take down the PUP and tow it to the dump station and dump like a regular TT does or 2) use the blue tote or other container to drain the black holding tank and take that to the dump station.
I just dump on the day we're leaving just like everyone else with a TT. My process is much faster than most others because I don't have a large black tank and I don't have a gray water tank to dump. Cleaning out the black holding tank is challenging and different because you cannot access it when dumping as the roof is down and the folding bathroom walls block access to it anyway. I just use the water hose and spray up in there gently and catch all of the run off with the sewer hose held under the outlet.
Now the rub for me that really motivated me to make a change up was that I do not want my blue tote being filled with black water. It's a whole different ballgame on how I might handle something that contains gray water (sink water 99%, shower 1% of the time) versus black water. A very small amount of black water would dribble out of the holding tank during camping and get into the blue tote. No thanks. Even if it was sealed up tightly, there would be residual gunk on the outlet from previous black tank dumpings that I didn't want to connect the blue tote back up to.
I cut the gray water line off of the black water outlet, capped it off with a rubber cap and hose clamp. I then installed a second 4" bayonet outlet right next to the black water outlet and ran the gray water lines to it. I carry two sewer hoses now: one standard 20' length for dumping the black water at the dump station and one 10" length for connecting the gray outlet to the blue tote that sits directly under it.
It works like a champ and eliminates cross contamination. I will include a picture. The outlet on the right is the new one I added. I had to get a few fittings from Lowes to make the transitions from 2.5" dia gray to the 4" outlet but it was straightforward.
In between the outlets, you can barely see the silver hose clamp holding the rubber cap on where the gray line originally joined into the 4" outlet.
Here's another view so you can see what is going on with the plumbing.
Original sizes can be viewed here.
This works but it's not as good as it should have been from Fleetwood. My opinion is that they should have gone with two holding tanks like typical TTs have or they should have gone with a cassette potty and no holding tank like typical PUPs. This half of one, half of the other business is quite bothersome. Fleetwood got the picture as I don't think they did it this way in the follow model years. It is my understanding for what I've read of other Highlander owners that they have gray holding tanks. Adding one is on my way-down-the-road list of things to do but I doubt it will ever happen. There's just not enough clear area under the subflooring for a tank of any sort.
Also, because the outlet is so low to the ground, I decided to get the Barker 15 gallon Tote-Along made for folding trailers. It is low profile and does the trick. Since then, I've done an axle over/under conversion and have an additional 6" of clearance (I HIGHLY recommend doing this for Highlander PUPs) and could use any tote I wanted. Below is a picture of the carrier I built to store the tote under the rear bumper of the PUP.
And on "flipping" the axle, which is a misnomer, I have some before and after pictures to share.
I am one for security wherever you can make it happen. What do you currently have for a lock and/or door latch. A picture would be most helpful since there are a number of variations.
With that said, I do lean towards the idea of not drawing attention by placing a heavy lock on it unless it really looks fairly benign. I would put the valuables in a container in the PUP but bring the container with you if you're leaving it unattended overnight at a hotel or something. A PUP is not a traveling vault.
People have installed permanently attached strong boxes inside their units and that works if the valuables are small. But if you're talking things like a generator then you'll have to look at a security cable anchored inside the PUP.
Throw up a picture so we can see what the door has and offers for reinforcement. You can always just add a locking hasp installed with with rivets then use your own padlock.
While I agree and it makes sense to do it that way, Jayco had placed the vent hole and therefore the AC on the curb side of my first PUP's roof. I will say that it was nice to be able to see directly behind me in traffic for moving through different lanes, etc.
Bubbles can indicate water intrusion but not always. Have you inspected for any other signs of water and/or rot? I would be all over that roof inside and out just to be sure.
Otherwise, how large are the bubbles? I've been able to poke small holes or cut short slits and insert glue behind similar issues.
What you're likely to find is a thin plywood like Luan behind the vinyl covering. You can try peeling it all off of the plywood or replace the plywood. Just realize that there is likely styrofoam insulation glued to the backside of that plywood. It's not the easiest thing to deal with.
Be sure to eliminate any possible water issue before fixing the roof. Otherwise you will have a repeat performance.