I accessed the drain tube from the outside and discovered there is a little plug on the end. It's purpose to to prevent creepy crawlers from getting to the inside of the refer. It is designed to let water pass, but in mat case was plugged. I removed it and blew the line with an air compressor to verify it was clear. No trouble since.
X2. The plug can be removed and cleaned. It has a small drainage hole that you'll be able to see once removed. I just cleaned that, didn't have to blow out the line.
Because of the vast number of adjustments possible, most problems seem to be lack of understanding and or lack of correct setup.
I'll agree with donn, these don't operate the way the after market ones do. If you're expecting the "tug" from the trailer brakes, you won't get it. The IBC is much smoother and works in concert with the truck brakes. I've never had a problem stopping with them or felt the trailer brakes weren't doing what they should.
I bought the Tripod, going to give it a shot.
The X chock between the tires worked wonders on our TT, BUT the tires are so close together on my new Wildcat, that you cannot use them! Sucks.
They make a set just for that. Think they fold down to less than 2", if you're interested.
Just a few "pages" into The Last Season, by Eric Blehm, about Sierra Nevada back country ranger Randy Morgenson's career and mysterious death.
Quick review: this was an excellent book for anyone interested in a mystery, but also insight into the life and work of back country rangers. Best I've read in a while.
Now on to William Least Heat-Moon's Blue Highways: A Journey into America.
Yeah, I've been on the receiving end of the guys who stand, watch, and critique your ability to back up. Had a time or two when I suppose I looked pretty silly and provided great entertainment. It happens, not much fun for me, but I guess it's great for the guy watching. Since I've been there, I make it a point to not stand and stare when someone is having a hard time backing, and find other ways to amuse myself. But that's just me.
So how did the dealership get the pink antifreeze into the plumbing lines if they didn't put it in through the fresh holding tank?
A winterizing kit, which you probably have on your system. If you do, near the pump you'll have a "T" in the line. One line goes down, into the fresh water tank, the other is a short line that just seems to be there, going nowhere. These will be on the intake side of the pump. Each should have a valve. When you close the one going to the tank, and open the other, when you turn on the pump you'll be able to draw antifreeze directly from the bottle when you winterize. Should only take a few gallons to do it. None in the tank. If you don't have the kit, you can add one, purchased or homemade. But that's something you don't have to deal with till you winterize.
Tanks don't need to be winterized, as when empty they only contain air, which doesn't freeze. Only water lines, including the pump and city water connection, are winterized. As for sanitizing, it is *best* to sanitize the system, especially since you don't know how it's been treated in the past. Many people don't, and carry bottled water for drinking, cooking, etc. Your choice, but sanitizing is another process to deal with right now. It's not hard, but takes a bit of time.
We have a well water head nearby I can use to fill and flush tanks, but I'm not sure where to start. That will serve as your "city water", so hook it to that connector on the trailer. The camper is currently without power as well but can be hooked up. Plug it in. Battery needs to be charged. I'm also unsure what to do with the black and grey tanks as they fill during this process. Shouldn't fill enough to worry about if you're only dewinterizing. The dealer who winterized also provided a new rod, but I'm unsure where that goes or when to install. That's your anode rod. It keeps your water heater from rusting. You can change it if necessary by removing the same sized bolt on the outside of the heater. TAKE PRESSURE OFF THE WATER HEATER BEFORE REMOVING, or you'll have a projectile. Then slide the new one in and tighten, after putting a couple rounds of Teflon tape around the threads. Pressure relief valve should be near the rod. If the old one is add thick SD the new one, or nearly, it doesn't need to be replaced yet. Do this before you fill the water heater, if possible, as it will also drain your heater.
I know all this is second-nature to many here; please help a newbie out! We've all been there!
First, welcome. We'll all get you through this. Not as difficult as you think. To dewinterize, open low point drains (should be 2 lines dropping below trailer). Open any faucets, hot and cold. The antifreeze won't hurt your lawn, but you can catch it in a bucket, either way. You'll know when it's drained. Close the low point drains. Hook up the city water, open each faucet until no pink antifreeze comes out. Turn off the city water. Next, set the valves on the water heater. You should have 2 lines, one going in, one out. You probably have a line between them. Open the 2 going in and out (valve handle in line with pipe). Close the one in between the 2 (handle at 90 degree angle). Are you drinking from the water system? If not, I wouldn't bother worrying about sanitizing the system at this time until you're more familiar and confident. When you turn on the water again the water heater should fill. Open a hot water faucet near it. It will take a while to fill, and when it does the water will sputter. Let it run until it runs smooth. ONLY THEN turn on the water heater. NEVER turn on heater unless you know the water heater is full. You really don't need to do anything with black and gray tanks except empty them. More questions or things look different? Post them here. Have fun!
Just went through that last week. Pulled into the campground after dark, having driven the last 20 miles or so on a 2 lae, twisty foothill road. Too late and tired to set up, we got into the site, hooked up, went to bed without unhitching. Next morning went to unhitch, stepped up on the outside tire, no air in it whatsoever. Wouldn't even hold any air from the compressor. Turns out I had a puncture to the sidewall. Not sure when it happened, but the dually may have saved me from a real problem, or worse. Broke my own cardinal rule of being in camp before sunset.
...My 5th wheel had Goodyear ST tires put on at the factory. Build date was August 1998 and I replaced those tires in June of 2010 to make a trip out west with three other rigs...
Think I'd go buy a lottery ticket; you seem like a lucky man! :) Your time frames are definitely outliers for any tire discussions I've seen. Glad you've not had any problems.