We finally got a call from the dealerships manager today, and it looks like we might be getting somewhere. He seemed to be quite eager to resolve this issue and replace the trailer at no cost to us.
Not to be scepticle ... but I am. :W The dealer didn't sell your trailer to you on consignment from the factory, he purchased it from the factory, covered all the upfront costs of transporting it to his dealership and preparing it for sale, and you purchased it from the dealer, with the title being transferred to your name, also at a cost. No dealer that runs a business effectively can afford to simply take back any trailer they've sold and offer you another new one in it's place ... there has to be more to this story. :R
And that would be the dealer's problem, not the OP's. I can believe that a good dealer would take back a trailer to salvage a reputation.
50 miles? How about leaving the motorhome sit, drive a car to get a new battery, bring it back and swap batteries yourself? Then, when you can, take the old one back to the store for your "core credit"?
That way you take no chances for electrical damage.
A lot of what you need to do depends on if you will be using the trailer in the winter, and what type of heat it has.
I would pay someone to come pump out the tanks rather than tote to the outhouse, at least the black tank.
You are right, the first thing you need to address is the roof leaks. DO NOT use silicone caulk. Use something called Dicor self-leveling and follow the instructions. It would be a good idea to do some preventive maintenance, and apply it to every roof penetration and seam. For vertical seams use the non-leveling version.
You will also have to address the issue of your water supply freezing in the winter.
Talk to the some of the other owners and see how they manage waste and water, they clearly would know more than the property owner, LOL.
You might want to consider getting the entire roof recoated at some point. There are lots of threads on here about roof care--cleaning, UV protection, re-coating. But for now, address the obvious leaks first!
Get some shelf liner that is kind of non-skid. There is a Rubbermaid version that has little bumps on it, that helps a lot.
No need to pack/unpack. Just don't put heavy thinks--like a gallon of water--next to your crackers or bread. Kind of keep like items together. Get some plastic or Corelle plates, and mostly plastic drinking glasses, etc.
Anything that's glass and relatively fragile, like the glass portion of a coffeepot, should be in a cabinet with some towels or something wrapped around the glass portion so it doesn't slide around much.
Electronics travel nicely in the middle of the bed, for anything you don't want/need in your tow vehicle.
Make sure your liquids in the fridge are closed tightly. You may find that a few small things in the fridge slide around but it's not generally a big deal.
Go to the dealer owner, or at least manager if it is a chain. Don't wait for the sales rep to help you out, just go and do it.
You can also do some googling around and find the head honchos of your trailer brand, and send them a letter directly.
Tires were 6 months old and had not been on the road at all. I checked the roof before purchase, is there an r-vision specific roof issue? I have had 6 travel trailers so I am familiar with leaks, this is my first motor home.
I'm not aware of a specific R-vision problem. Just saying, in general, be paranoid about leaks. Seems like you know that.
Looks very nice!
First things you need to do:
*check around EVERY roof and wall penetration for cracked/leaking caulking or sealant
*Get new tires if you haven't done so already. If those are the originals, they are definitely dry-rotted.
In general for used RVs, but most especially at this sort of price point, look at condition above brand and year. A "poorer" motorhome (older or lesser brand or whatever) in great shape will be much more satisfactory than a "better" one that has not been well maintained.
Your number one priority is to look for signs of water intrusion. Musty smells, the faintest hint of dampness, any discoloration. Open all the cabinets, drawers, and closets and look hard.
My garage door opener uses ONE Lithium CR2032 3V coin sized cell.
It is obvious that the opener is a "smart" device but it has, of late, been intermittent. I measured the cell to be 3.08V which I thought would be OK...
A fresh cell measures 3.24V.
So, the question, how much capacity might a Lithium 3.08V have remaining when compared to the fresh cell at 3.24V ?
The answer is... not enough to run your door remote. Just change it. Which you could already have done in the time you made this post.
I think you're looking at this wrong. It's not which mfg builds a good TT.
Look at cars, every mfg builds a complete line of cars from some little cheap bucket of bolts to Cadillacs. The same with tennis shoe mfgs. They all build from really cheap ones (just so some kid can show of the brand name) to a really good shoe.
Look at tire mfgs, they all build from really cheap tires that you might get 20,000 miles on to really good tires that they'll guarantee 60,000 miles on. Some guy who bought the cheapest tire is going to cuss them and the guy who bought the 60,000 mile tire will probably give a good report on the same brand.
So just asking who builds a good or bad RV isn't going to produce good / usable information. Someone who bought brand Xs top of the line RV will most likely report they were pleased with it vs someone who bought the same mfgs low end entry RV probably isn't going to be pleased with it.
So in addition to asking which company builds a good TT, I think you need to be asking people to include the model line.
Go look at the Northwoods TTs.
Not exactly true. The cheapest Honda, Toyota, or Michelin is far better than the cheapest Kia, Chrysler, or Nanking.
I suspect the cheapest Lance or Northwoods RV is better than the cheapest Forest River or Thor product.
There's no reason to go solar to do what you want to do, because it is not cost effective. I'm not even sure you could put enough panels on the roof to do it. You need a good quiet generator, like a Honda or Yamaha, or you need plug-in sites.
However, if you have situations with lower demand, like no AC needed, you could greatly reduce your generator usage or plug-in dependency with a solar system and good battery bank.
Just put a data plan on your cell phone. Use the "Mobile Hotspot" app, and turn it into a "mifi". No need for a separate device.
Mobile Hotspot does suck your battery, so keep a big backup battery or charger/outlet nearby.
Towing mpg will be much more speed dependent than the weight or size of the trailer (within reason), I believe. Have had 2 - 6.2 Fords and pulled several different trailers with them from small stuff to 14klb tag trailer with steel on it to 32' enclosed trailer, similar to a TT.
Pretty much didn't matter what went on the hook, once it was there, mileage was 10mpg or less. 8ish if I had my foot in it. Closer to 10 if going 55mph.
Frontal area can be reduced with some variety of pop up trailer. Other than that, you can't control any important factor other than your speed. Climbing grades and a headwind are factors mostly out of your control.
I have towed travel trailers with a variety of vehicles, all over the country. MPG from 6 to 14, overall average 10.
Generally stay at or under 80% of your tow ratin6, for a good experience.