RE: Thetford toilet leak
I have used a thin coat of olive oil on all of the seals and o rings in my Thetford cassette and toilet for the 5 seasons I have had it. Other than having to apply it a little more frequently (maybe), it seems to work perfectly. The seals seal, the cover slides and the valve holds water. I'm not particularly a big fan of silicone.
I would definitely recommend a good cleaning of the tank, seals, vent valve and the drain vent. They can get gummed up pretty easy. I usually only have to do it once a season to keep them free and working.
RE: Digital Thermostat Install Question
I'm in the move the thermostat where you can reach it club. I installed a jack to plug in my LUX thermostat and used an old cell phone coiled charging cable with a plug on one end and the T'stat on the other end. Mounted the T'stat on a piece of lexan plastic I had laying around and drilled a hole for one of those Carabiner keychain clips. Just hang it next to the bed at human height - vs. knee height for the factory T'stat. Roll over and switch it on or off without getting out of my sleeping bag. If the battery or T'stat takes a dump, the jack is wired in parallel with the factory stat, so it will serve as a backup by simply turning it on.
RE: potty chemicals usage
We've been using the cassette toilet in our PUP since we bought it in 2004 and have had no problems. We have used the Thetford chemicals, both Aqua-Kem and Campa-Chem/Campa-Chem Natural in the holding tank, and nothing but fresh clean water in the flushing water tank (As said above, the chemical for the flushing water tank mentioned in the instructions is not available in the US - I checked that directly with Thetford.)
We like the Campa-Chem Natural best, it is a non-formaldehyde formula that seems to have less odor of it's own and does a good job of controlling odor from the cassette tank. I seem to remember that when I first checked out the Thetford chemicals, the Campa-Chem products were sold only at Wally World, but no longer see that on the website. The Aqua-Kem was the everywhere else product with formaldehyde, and the Campa-Chem was the Wally World product with formaldehyde. I haven't shopped for any for awhile.
As for dosage, Mike is right on,the cassette is 20 liters, about 5.25 gallons. 8 oz. of the liquid is good for 30-40 gallons, so 5.25/30=1.4 oz. for the cassette tank. I have found in use, and again verified with Thetford that 2 oz. of Campa-Chem Natural works very well under all conditions that I have used it. You can actually use a little less of the Aqua-Kem, it seems to me to be stronger, at least smelling and tends to give you a "chemical" smell if you don't use a little less (1.5 oz. seems to work good.) Overall, the Campa-Chem seems to be much better smelling and less odorous on its own. I put in the chemical (the cassette cap has measuring marks on it) and then add just enough water to allow the chemical to coat the inside of the cassette when I shake it around.
RE: Possitioning travel trailer in garage with wheel dollies
I don't personally, but recall a post sometime back by someone who used this Harbor Freight wheel dollie:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/94600-94699/94682.gif
RE: Starcraft RT 13 - Install AC
I have one installed in my '04 11RT, which should be very similar to the 13RT install. I did not do it, but I have some photos of the installation. PM me if you want copies of them.
Basically, the AC is installed in the roof, and there are two steel cross brackets that bolt to the ceiling to help support it. The power for the AC is not pre-installed in the roof, but is done via a 20 amp cord unit that attaches to the AC on one end, and has a plug on the other end. The exposed part of the cord that runs on the ceiling is enclosed in a plastic "wire moulding" that has adhesive on the back to stick it to the ceiling. The rest of the cord is hidden behind the cloth valence around the ceiling, and stores on a couple of cable clamps with velcro when not connected.
The power from the 20A circuit breaker in the converter is run to a receptacle in a cabinet under the seat, one piece of the plywood under the cusion lifts up to allow the cord to be dropped into the cabinet and has a cutout in the corner for the cord to go through. The cord is unfolded and dropped down to the receptacle and plugged in. If you used the AC a lot (we don't) I don't see why it wouldn't be ok to just leave it plugged in and fold it up with the canvas when popping down.
RE: UPDATE/SOLVED Constant noise when dry camped 07 Coleman Utah
Has this PUP been his since new? Check inside the top fridge cover - has someone added a cooling fan for the fridge condenser coil? It could have been connected to the water pump circuit.
RE: Rebent axle problem?
Well I can safely say they did a lousy job. ....
There's no fixing that one.
I would say it's more like "they really did a job on that one!" WOW! I guess if you live long enough you get to see just about everything. Whoever did that did not even remotely understand how trailer axles work.
RE: What brand Deep Cycle battery do you use?
I have two Costco Group 27 Marine/deep cycle batteries. Not true Deep Cycle, but one is on it's 5th season, the other it's 4th. I abuse them pretty badly by discharging pretty deep. I also charge them right back up with a smart charger too! If you really want true deep cycle batteries with lots of amp hrs, then 2 6 volt golf cart batteries are really the way to go. I will probably go that route when the Costco batteries fail.
RE: Quick ? about jacks just to ease my mind
My TV jack rises to 18 inches, and will lift more weight than my PUP. However, it's labeled 'Use only on specified vehicles.' Should I be concerned? (And yes, at some point in time I'd like to get a better jack.)
That label is a product of our society's proclivity to litigate at every turn, a "cover our butt" for the auto maker.
However, I would recommend that, if you wish to use it for the PUP, you test it out in your driveway or other safe, level place and determine on your own whether or not it is appropriate for the task. Along side a highway, on a sloping dirt shoulder is not the time to try figuring that out (that really isn't the place to try chainging a tire either.) If it works, then I say use it.
Remember coming across a couple of young men from Canada one trip - they had a flat on their PUP, and were trying to use a floor jack with wheels on a rather steeply inclined gravel road. Needless to say it wasn't going very well. Used my truck's bottle jack and some lego spacers to get the tire changed.
RE: Where to hang an exterior stove
As far as I know, the low pressure gas hookups were for the RVQ gas grill, not for a stove, although I do recall seeing an indoor/outdoor stove offered, just not sure on what mfr/model. The high pressure connections were for the outdoor stove option.
The original RVQ is not made, but an RVQ II is available, and it runs on low pressure propane. It is available at:
RVQ II BBQ I have also seen them on E-bay from time to time.
RE: WARNING: Almost a Horrible Accident
Very glad that he didn't get injured. It sounds like you have taken this as a very good example to stress to him, and the rest of the family, how important teamwork and communication is to safety, even at the campsite.
I agree with what some others have said, help from someone not known our out of the normal routine can be dangerous. If someone new is doing anything with me, rather than just "letting them help," I usually take them with me on my part of the routine, and demonstrate what I am doing and then work them into doing it under my supervision. Only after someone is familar with what, when, why, how, and even more importantly, how not to do it am I comfortable with working with them.
RE: odor
Propane leak?:E I would trace the propane lines and test each and every joint with soapy water. Bubbles=leak. For your own safety DO NOT run any gas appliances until this is done and any leaks repaired. JMHO
I would also recommend that you don't have shore power or the battery connected while you are leak checking either. A spark while there is a propane mixture in the air would not be good. Also if the smell is that strong - although a little propane smell goes a long way - you probably have an easily detectable leak. I personally would open all of the tent flaps and the door while working inside so that I had plenty of fresh air for myself.
If you don't find any joints/connections that are leaking, check anywhere there is tubing that is going through a hole or held down with a strap or clamp. Also check the regulator - they can go bad too and vent.
RE: 20amp to 30 amp Adaptor Plug
Depending on which converter you have, and what exactly "my converter recently went bad on me" is describing, you could also just disconnect the 120 vac wiring that goes from the shore power into the converter section and simply use the 120 vac distribution circuit breakers without any additional pigtails or connectors. The plugs for these can get pricy. Most converters have a hot wire that goes from the AC circuit breaker section into the converter section, and a neutral wire from the neutral bar/bus that also goes into the converter. If you disconnect these, you will isolate the converter from the shore power but still power the AC distribution circuit breakers, including the 20A A/C.
BTW - if you want or need to build the pigtail anyway, PPL Motorhomes has a 30 amp male 18" 10/3 pigtail for $13.89. I doubt you could buy the male plug for that. I have not been able to find the correct 30A male plug at either Lowes or Home depot. You could then even temporarily relocate your 20A A/C receptacle and box onto the pigtail to save having to buy the 20A female connector.
RE: Our last tent camping trip
What are you waiting for? Chloe really NEEDS a PUP! :)
Because a lot of our camping is done at/near the beach on the west coast, my wife and pretty much given up tent camping as too painful. Now that we have a PUP, she is go, go, go!
RE: can 1 set it up?
As others have said, you can do it by yourself. A "Check List" would be benefical, particularly at first, but will be usefull in making sure you didn't forget something even after you are and "old pro" at it. Since there are a lot of little things to do - nothing very hard our daunting by itself - I would suggest you have whoever you buy it from do a "park and level" through "make up the bed" setup, and then a "fold and hitch up" for you while you video tape it. You can then go back through the vidoe tape and learn all the details, and use it to make your check list.
Don't forget, your "perfect PUP" is one YOU can set up solo - just in case.
RE: 15 amp service
PUPs by design generally don't use very much shore power - they are meant to operate on 12volt batteries for the basic needs. The added attractions are what start using the juice - A/C, microwave, electric heater, etc. The biggie being the A/C - 20+ amps for starting. As you can see if you NEED 20 amps for the A/C, most everything else should get by on 10 amps if a 30 amp service will work. While it isn't quite that simple, it gives you the picture. Unless you want to run A/C or some electric heaters, you should be fine with 15A shore power.
RE: Looking at 2003 a Coleman Sedona
We ended up buying it last Saturday for $3400. We've set it up in our driveway now and we all love it. It seems brand new and hardly used.
Right now it's in the shop getting the wheel bearings repacked and the brakes checked just to be safe. I'm also having them put in a transmission cooler and hooking up the brake controller to my TV.
We have a camping trip planned for the week after next!
Congratulations! Nothing like a "New to You!" PUP. Sounds like you're getting it properly prepared too! Have fun, and KEEP ON CAMPING! :)
RE: Battery life
Your fridge does indeed draw more amps than you realize. It has a heating element, and on 12V, it will draw your battery down in the time frame you describe. Operate the fridge on propane when you do not have hookups - it is the most efficient mode for the fridge and actually uses very little propane. Use 120 AC to run it when you have hook ups.
The only time you MAY want to run the fridge on 12 volts is when it is hooked up to the TV, and even then, if you don't have large enough wiring between the TV and the PUP, it can draw from the battery.
RE: In the home of wolves and bears...
I/ve camped in tents and PUPs in bear country and never had any problems. Wolves we don't have around here. I pretty much always check with the rangers (camp hosts if I happen to be going into a for real campground) about recent bear activity. While pretty much all of the truly wild bears don't care much for people, and making enough noise so that they know you are there before you know they are there will do the trick, juvenile bears or ones who have figured out that people = food can be localized problems - best to know before you camp. Pretty much the only bears I have seen camping are the problem bears, and they are problems because they are lazy and go for the unlatched dumpsters and the food that people leave out and easy to get.
Iknow out here, if there are problems, then the campground usually lets you know, over and over, and has bear boxes for food/toiletries.
In all my camping, I'd have to say mosquitos have been a far, far bigger problem than bears. :)
RE: Back that thing up
I don't have pup anymore I have a 27'TT if I don't get it in on the first time I get myself so messed up the campers around me start passing the popcorn..:B
More truth than fiction there! :)
