I needed short extenders to fasten the tire pressure monitor to the inner dual. I bought the size I needed from this place:
Not cheap, but they seal well (better than the Monkey Grip extenders I was using). Very quick shipping from this vendor.
The "small box-like fuses" are probably self-resetting circuit breakers. They are often found in circuits that need to have power restored automatically after an overload, such as headlight circuits. If your problem is one of those, replace it but look further to find if there is an intermittent short that's tripping it, or if the window motor is binding or otherwise causing an overload.
All nice places. However, many areas do not allow dogs on the beach. An exception is Dauphin Island, Alabama. We spent a few days there recently and really enjoyed it. Kinda out of the way, very quiet. It is a bit pricey at $40 per night. The beach is about a quarter-mile hike from the campground.
UPDATE: I made an appointment with a service facility to let them look at the AC. I brought the coach to the house yesterday, to prepare for the trip to service facility today. I decided to give it one more look myself.
I got the correct documents for my AC model from the Airxcel site. There is an 8-amp fuse inline in the condensor blower high-speed wire. That fuse was blown. I replaced it and everything now works correctly. I cancelled the service appointment this morning.
That fuse is optional, and not shown on all the wiring diagrams, even for my model. Apparently, what happens is that the condensor fan motor has two totally seperate circuits for high and low speeds. When the thermostat set point is one degree lower than ambient, only AC circuit #1 is called for and the condensor fan runs on low speed. When the thermostat set point is two or more degrees below ambient, both cooling circuits #1 & #2 are demanded. The condensor fan low-speed circuit shuts off, there is a brief delay, then the high-speed circuit is activated. Since the fuse was blown, there was no high speed available so the fan just stopped. If the inside ambient temperature dropped to within one degree of the thermostat set point, the high-speed circuit dropped out and low-speed was re-activated. That would make the condensor fan come on again. Strange way to setup a fan, but I guess it was designed to minimize electrical load.
Thanks to all who replied and helped me with this problem. I hope this info helps someone else with a problem someday.
UPDATE: Got home without too much trouble. Spent a couple of days in Vicksburg; temps very pleasant and the AC unit worked part of the time. Spent Friday night in Shreveport; it was miserable. Hot and humid, and not much breeze. The AC wouldn't work a minute.
Drove on home on Saturday. As soon as I hooked up to electric at my house, I turned on the AC and it would run about 75% of the time. The condensor fan still is intermittent. I'm gonna try replacing the relay(s) and all the capacitors as soon as I can get them. Will post update when I become an expert on this system!
I had a capacitor go bad and short out, taking the circuit board with it. I replaced both the capacitors and the board, and my unit did the same as yours. I replaced the relays and it solved the problems. I'd try that first, they're only about $10 each if you order direct from Airexcel. They're easy to replace, located right above the circuit board on my model.
I don't find any "order parts" link on Airexcel's Web page. Can you provide a link, or send me a PM with ordering info? Thanks a million for your help.
Basement air conditioner quit working on our 2000 Itasca Horizon. AC blower works. Compressors run, but condensor blower doesn't run. It will sometimes start and run a few seconds, then shuts off. Compressors continue to run until (probably) the high-pressure switch shuts them off because there is no cooling air. Sometimes when I turn on the AC, nothing runs except the inside blower. Sometimes, it works as described above.
The condensor blower spins freely, so it's not bound up. I suspect a circuit board problem, or a sensor switch problem, but can't say for sure. Any help appreciated.
Interesting post, as I had a generator issue a couple of days ago. Like Dennis, I try to avoid driving in the rain. But we hit one of those gulf coast showers on I-10 between Biloxi and Pascagoula, MS. We were running the genny to provide air conditioning. My fuel supply was getting a bit low. We stopped in a rest area for a few minutes to wait out the rain, then continued on I-10. We hit another downpour, and as I started up the slope on one of those tall bridges, my genny quit.
I tried to start it when we stopped for fuel; no luck. We continued to our destination. Next morning I checked everything on the genny -- circuit breakers, oil & coolant level, etc. -- everything was good. I held down the prime for a few seconds, then tried starting. It sputtered once, but died. I repeated this procedure several times, each time getting the genny to run for a few seconds. It finally started and ran rough for a few seconds, then smoothed out and has been fine since.
My belief is that, due to my low fuel condiiton, the genny ran out of fuel and sucked the filter and fuel lines dry as I was on the upslope of the bridge. With a full fuel tank on the coach, and repeated priming, the genny started. I believe it didn't have anything to do with the rain -- but I will still avoid rain whenever possible. I also try to avoid driving at night. So far, I've been successful in avoiding driving at night in the rain.
Just a suggestion: unless you're locked in to a Blue Ox, download and read the installation instructions for Blue Ox, Roadmaster, and any others you may consider. See which one looks simpler to install. I know that smlranger said there's no drilling required for the Blue Ox on your CRV. That was not the case on my 2006 CRV; Blue Ox required drilling and chiseling off a couple of brackets. For that reason, I went with Roadmaster. No drill/chisel required.
Like others have said, it ain't rocket science, just basic mechanical work. It took me quite a bit longer than the installation instructions said, but then I read everything twice and verify multiple times. And, these days everything takes me a lot longer than it used to.
If you do decide to replace it, iMarine on the west coast, sells Magnum factory remanufactured units every so often, for very reasonable prices. I think they have a contract with Magnum to sell all their factory remanufactured stock and get them in several times a year. I know that the price is so low, that they do not last long. I bought my upgrade 2800 from them.
Thanks for the link. I will check them out. I've never been a big fan of reman stuff, but if it's done by the factory it should be Ok.
Did you run a high wattage appliance such as a electric heater on a 120 outlet from the inverter? Long time usage. That may be the cause of inverter failure.
No, I haven't run anything from the inverter for a long time. Maybe long periods of non-use, plus the unit's age (12 - 13 years) caused failure.
Don and Dick, thanks for the replies. I may get a small pure sine wave inverter, as Don recommends, to power the electric throw cover that my wife likes to use when traveling. That's about the only thing I've ever used the inverter function for. Also, a built-in battery charger would be nice, and those items don't cost an arm and leg.
I don't know when, why, or how it happened but my inverter is fried. I noticed recently that, on the remote panel, the Overload light was on steady and the Battery light was flashing. No output from the inverter, which is a Heart Interface 1500 watt.
I replaced all my batteries, then started troubleshooting. Yesterday I took the inverter out and took the cover off.
There is a Bypass and Switching Control Board (PN 60-7321-00 Rev E) in the front which has three relays; one of them shows burning and arcing, which extended through the PC board.
I can't find a source for that Bypass & Switching Control Board. The individual relays are available, but the board itself looks too bad to try replacing individual components. I can't afford a new inverter at this time.
I disconnected the inverter and bypassed it, connecting the AC Input to the AC Output. Everything (except the inverter) works fine. I setup a place where I can connect a battery charger to the DC cables (now disconnected and secured) from the inverter to the battery. I can plug the charger into the receptacle for the engine block heater, and turn it on/off inside the coach using the engine heater switch that controls the receptacle (the engine heater plug is disconnected from the receptacle at this time). When the weather gets cool enough that I need the block heater, I'll have to make other arrangements for the charger. Maybe the DW will win the lotto and I can buy a new inverter/charger.
Since we normally stay in parks/campsites with electric hookup, I think we're OK for now -- don't normally use the Inverter function, but will miss the automatic battery charging feature.
I tried really hard to ignore this post, really I did...
But it's Friday, and late into a 2 margarita lunch (27 oz, not those wimpy things...) and I just cannot help myself...
Karma is the answer. Really. A good positive attitude is all it takes. People just don't f*** with people with good karma.
I live outside of chicago, and have worked as a field service engineer for 30 years...
There is no place I won't go.
I rarely lock my car.
I treat everyone as my potential friend, and am treated likewise by everyone I meet.
I know this is particularly hard for former LEO's, who've chosen to deal with society in a different way than most of us, but still...
No one has ever f***ed with me. Except for that day in 1986 when my brand new /monte Carlo SS was stolen...
But that is another story for another day.
Talked to an old retiree down here in Texas the other day, who told a similar story of working in Chicago for forty years. Said he worked all shifts, in all areas of town, and never had a problem. I asked him what he did all those years. He said, "I was a tailgunner on a bread truck."
ok we just got our new old dp it is a winnabago vectra 40fd and it is a2005 we would like to know do u bring the slides in with the jacks down and do u run the slides out with the jacks up need to know what way is the best
I don't know if you have the Operator's Manual for your coach. If not, you can find it here:
2005 Vectra Operator's Manual
The manual states that you level the coach before moving the slideout. All Winnebago products I've looked at state the same thing. Other brands of coaches are different.
When I'm working on my coach here at the house, I often run one or both slideouts out, without extending the jacks first. My driveway is pretty much level front-to-back, and has a slight slope away from the house. Slides work fine in this situation.
You will see in the Op Manual that Winnebago recommends using the jacks to raise the side of the coach opposite the slide, to force water runoff if there is water on the slides, before retracting the slides. That implies to me that Winnebago doesn't consider it a great sin to move the jacks while the slides are out.
This post provided for information only.
Look for a tranny power wire near the batteries, with an inline fuse. Some coaches have that setup that powers the transmission computer. If you have it, you will find a wire connected directly to the battery positive terminal, with the inline fuse nearby.
I'm wondering how you found an rv that was smoked in. Every ad I've seen says never smoked in and no pets every allowed inside. I didn't think rver's smoked or had dogs.
I think the darn dogs are sneaking a smoke!