RE: Attention All Electron Chasers
Well, I may have found the culprit. The element for the refrigerator checked out OK with a multi meter. But I checked out the element uninstalled with power. I noticed a small pinhole at the far end of the element that was shooting out vapor as the element was heating up. This vapor was probably allowing the element to ground when installed in the trailer. So I ordered a new element that should be here on Monday. Can’t wait to install it. It will be nice to get back to normal! We’ve got to get ready to make a trip to Oklahoma City to have Turkey with my daughter. I’ll post the results with the new element.
RE: Attention All Electron Chasers
Ok,Ok, Ok, Now it's getting fun.....I just went out to do a visual inspection of the element while waiting for responses. I pulled the element out and disconnected it from the circuit board. A resistance check of the element showed 38 ohms which some web sites state a 110v 325w element should be. Just for grins I turned on the power after connecting it back to the circuit board but with the element still removed from the burner assy. The element heated up but it did not trip the breaker. What the heck?! So I reinstalled the element back into the burner assy. and powered up the unit and it tripped the GFI.
Several of you have stated I just need to not power up the trailer on a GFI circuit. I understand the reasons behind that and would if I could. But all the outlets close to the trailer are GFI. Also something has changed in the trailer because it never was a problem before. Something electrical is amiss and for safety sake I'd like to find out what it is. I may just splurge and go buy a new element, plug it in and see what happens.
Harvard you mentioned measuring the capacitance in the element. Are you implying the element is storing an electrical charge?
All of you have been most helpful and I've understood pretty much all of your advice except for a couple posts that have left me a little perplexed. But that gives me something to think about when I wake up at 3am and can't get back to sleep. If you're old enough you'll understand that last statement. If not, you eventually will.
If you have 2 conductors spaced close to each other but separated by an insulator you have a capacitator.
When you had the metal case of the heating element touch the metal mounting you had GROUNDED one side of the capacitator providing a path for leakage current.
When you did NOT have the case of the heating element connected to the mounting this one side of the capacitator was OPEN and did not connect to GROUND there by opening the leakage path.
Did you try the Converter OFF and Fridge Heater ON test?
Ok, now that makes sense. It's been about 35 years since last electronics schooling and use.
Haven't tried the Converter off test yet but will this morning.
I'm using the same cords as before. Everything used now is the same as in the begining. I try to keep all power lines as short as possible.
RE: Attention All Electron Chasers
Ok,Ok, Ok, Now it's getting fun.....I just went out to do a visual inspection of the element while waiting for responses. I pulled the element out and disconnected it from the circuit board. A resistance check of the element showed 38 ohms which some web sites state a 110v 325w element should be. Just for grins I turned on the power after connecting it back to the circuit board but with the element still removed from the burner assy. The element heated up but it did not trip the breaker. What the heck?! So I reinstalled the element back into the burner assy. and powered up the unit and it tripped the GFI.
Several of you have stated I just need to not power up the trailer on a GFI circuit. I understand the reasons behind that and would if I could. But all the outlets close to the trailer are GFI. Also something has changed in the trailer because it never was a problem before. Something electrical is amiss and for safety sake I'd like to find out what it is. I may just splurge and go buy a new element, plug it in and see what happens.
Harvard you mentioned measuring the capacitance in the element. Are you implying the element is storing an electrical charge?
All of you have been most helpful and I've understood pretty much all of your advice except for a couple posts that have left me a little perplexed. But that gives me something to think about when I wake up at 3am and can't get back to sleep. If you're old enough you'll understand that last statement. If not, you eventually will.
RE: Attention All Electron Chasers
Well I'm back at the GFI thingie problem. As you can see I don't rush things. Actually I've been extremely busy and I’m finally getting a chance to get to the bottom of this.
With the refrigerator unplugged from its outlet on the trailer and power supplied to the trailer the GFI doesn’t trip. When I plugged in the refrigerator the GFI tripped. I then disconnected the refrigerator heating element leads from the circuit board and powered up the trailer. The GFI didn’t trip. This should mean that the heating element for the refrigerator is the problem – I think. So.....I took a continuity check from one lead of the heating element to the other. It’s a complete circuit as it should be. I then checked for a short from the element leads to ground and also to the element housing. There was no continuity. Any ideas? What am I missing? I really thought I was on to something – Darn!
