RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'joe0508' found 34 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: air conditioner

I'm curious - is there a control panel with thermostat knob on the A/C itself, and what position it is in? Because on my A/C there is such a knob.This is a separate thermostat on the wall.
joe0508 01/10/16 10:54pm Tech Issues
RE: air conditioner

Is the thermostat near the kitchen? Does it have a separate off setting, or did you just turn the temperature knob all the way up? Perhaps it was getting warm enough from the cooking to turn on. It's also possible that the thermostat is just plain broken/malfunctioning. One sure way to prevent the air conditioner from running is to manually flip the air conditioner breaker in your electrical distribution panel. Usually there will not be anything else on that circuit.The thermostat is near the kitchen and i had a lot of moisture in the air from cooking because the windows were steaming up.It does have a separate off switch.When you turn it on their is a green light that will come on.Just the opposite i turned it all the way down.The funny thing is the unit wasnt even in use when it happened.Are they supposed to kick on automatic like this when it get to warm even without a heating element? The nature of an air conditioner is that it is SUPPOSED to kick on when the room temp gets warm. Not if thermostat is set to heat and furnace is running Your t-stat was being shorted due to the moisture. Pull cover off t-stat and check connections. Spray with some WD-40 to get rid of the moisture.Will time clear out the moisture?
joe0508 01/08/16 08:32pm Tech Issues
RE: air conditioner

Is the thermostat near the kitchen? Does it have a separate off setting, or did you just turn the temperature knob all the way up? Perhaps it was getting warm enough from the cooking to turn on. It's also possible that the thermostat is just plain broken/malfunctioning. One sure way to prevent the air conditioner from running is to manually flip the air conditioner breaker in your electrical distribution panel. Usually there will not be anything else on that circuit.The thermostat is near the kitchen and i had a lot of moisture in the air from cooking because the windows were steaming up.It does have a separate off switch.When you turn it on their is a green light that will come on.Just the opposite i turned it all the way down.The funny thing is the unit wasnt even in use when it happened.Are they supposed to kick on automatic like this when it get to warm even without a heating element?
joe0508 01/08/16 05:34pm Tech Issues
air conditioner

I have a ducted rv air conditioner.Its an air conditioner only no heating element.It has the thermostant on the wall.I was at the rv today doing some cooking.I had the generator running with the furnace going.The air conditioner was off not being used.I was at the stove and kept hearing a blower come on for a few seconds and stop.At first i thought it was the furnace blower kicking on and off but after investigating i noticed the air condioner was on.It came on all by itself.While it was running i manually turned it on and than back off and it went off.Moments later it came back on all by itself.This time it stayed on and when i went to try the same thing it wouldnt go off.The only way i could get it to turn off was to turn the generator off.I had to leave so i couldnt do much to figure it out but does anyone have any idea what it could be?
joe0508 01/08/16 04:57pm Tech Issues
RE: rv taxes

You list 'knoxville' as your location..........which I take is Tennessee Are you registering RV in TN or KY? TN INFO (NOT OFFICIAL) KY INFO (NOT OFFICIAL)I originally had it registered and tagged in north carolina and i paid my taxes for a couple of years untill the registration ran out and i didnt renew it because i had it in storage and wasnt using it.I than moved it to a cheaper storage facility in tennesee.I called the dmv in north carolina because it was coming around time to pay my next annual tax payment.They said they had no record of a payment since my registration had ran out so i thought i was good.I now wont to move it to kentucky and get it legal but i am concerned about the taxes that i am pretty certain is gonna come up.I have proof of the couple of yares that i did pay and did make an attempt to keep the payments up but not certain how i could make a payment when they didnt have a record of one.
joe0508 12/10/15 09:22pm Tech Issues
rv taxes

Quick question.I own an rv that has been in storage for the last three years in kentucky.It has been unregistered and not driven the whole time.Now i am ready to register it and tag it.Will i still have to pay the taxes for the time that it has not been driven or registered?
joe0508 12/10/15 01:42am Tech Issues
wipers

I have a 92 p30 motorhome.The wiper motors are rocking back and forth when the wipers are on.It seems their are smoething that has came loose that is keeping them from being in a stationary position.Has anyone had this condition or might know what to do about it?
joe0508 11/27/15 10:25pm Tech Issues
RE: brake bleeder tool

Speed bleeders would NOT be the way I would do it on an old master cylinder. They rely on the master cylinder being pumped many, many times, with the seals running into areas that are likely rough. Far better to suck the fluid from the wheels and not use the master cylinder at all for the job.Yea this is the way i am gonna go.I will see if it will help if not i guess my next step will be to take it to a shop and get a complete inspection.Thanks for all yor help.
joe0508 11/26/15 11:24pm Tech Issues
RE: brake bleeder tool

Yes, I believe it will do the same job as long as you push sufficient fluid through the system. I like to push enough fluid through to replace the fluid, instead of just bleeding the brakes.Yea i had the same idea.I will siphon all the the fluid from the the reservoir.Than fill it with fresh fluid.Than use the bleeder tool to siphon all the air and contaminated fluid from the system.I figure this should take care of any air that would be trapped in the bore of the mc.Correct me if i am wrong.
joe0508 11/25/15 11:22pm Tech Issues
RE: brake bleeder tool

To bleed a master cylinder, rig two connections at the outlets of the master cylinder to two tubes that go back up and over down into the reservoirs. Make sure they are full. Have an assistant slowly push down the brake pedal several times until there are no air bubbles. Having said that, I have only bled master cylinders when I was replacing them. The normal routine of bleeding the brake lines is probably sufficient, unless you have some reason to believe that there is a problem with the master cylinder.I am just trying to get an idea if bleeding the the breaks from the calipers will do the same trick of getting the air from the mc?
joe0508 11/25/15 10:48pm Tech Issues
RE: brake bleeder tool

Check master cylinder level......needs to be full Then starting at the brake farthest away from MC bleed brake fluid thru it. If you have a vacuum pump........follow directions that came with that pump Keep MC topped off.....if it goes empty/sucks air into system you have to start all over Changing fluid completely.....suck old out of MC with turkey baster then fill with new. Bleed each wheel position until new fluid shows up (Keep that MC full) Start at farthest postionThis is what i am prepared to do.I am just wondering if it is necessary to bleed the mc first?
joe0508 11/25/15 10:30pm Tech Issues
brake bleeder tool

Can you use a brake bleeder tool to bleed the master cylinder while it is still on the vehicle?How would you do it?I know i can do the calibers with one and plan to but i have read to do a brake bleed correctly you should do the mc first before going to the calibers.
joe0508 11/25/15 09:29pm Tech Issues
RE: hydroboost diagnosis test

Do you think i should bleed the mc before i bleed the calipers?
joe0508 11/25/15 09:04pm Tech Issues
RE: hydroboost diagnosis test

I am thinking about flushing the brake fluid myself and bleeding the calipers to see if that helps before taking it in but i have a question.It seems the breaks will pump up with the engine running but wont with the off.Will it hurt anything to bleed the breaks with the engine running or is that a bad idea?I just dont see how i am worried if it wont come off the floor no further than what it does i might damage the mc if not already.
joe0508 11/24/15 10:56pm Tech Issues
RE: hydroboost diagnosis test

You either have a rear wheel cylinder leaking, rear shoes that need adjusted or a failing master cylinder. The light coming on under a hard brake press is telling you that the differential switch is seeing more pressure in the front than the rear at that moment. Brakes are set up to have the rears apply just before the fronts do.Does all this apply to front and rear disc brakes just the same?
joe0508 11/24/15 10:18pm Tech Issues
RE: hydroboost diagnosis test

What model year is the RV? WHat brand? Do you have GM or Ford chassis? Have you changed the brake fluid recently? Or ever? Is there a front caliper flex line with a bubble on it when the brake pedal is pressed really hard? That can cause really spongy brakes. Normally once the RV is over 20 years old, the front flex lines should be replaced, regardless of how 'great' they look.. . If it is a class C, is there transmission fluid behind the drivers side carpet on the inside? This would indicate a bad hydroboost, and they can be really expensive. Mine cost $950 from a truck supply place in Long Beach where I used to work, and they gave me the fleet price - back in 1994 or something, so with inflation, they probably run $1,500 or more now. . . What fluid is dark? power steering or brake fluid? Both can get dark when they are older. While at it, check out the transmission fluid. If that is dark too, then start saving for a new $3000 transmission. .. Change the transmission fluid as soon as possible if it is dark or smells bad. You will still be leaving about 1 gallon of fluid in the torque converter. Then only way to get all out is flush it, but still some will remain, say 15% or 10%. The only true way to get rid of most all of it is to change it twice in a row. Then 75% or more is replaced the first time, and the additional 3 gallons of fluid will dilute anything that remains. Changing it again within say 1,000 miles will get ride of most of the old stuff, leaving the new stuff to 'dilute' some not so dirty transmission fluid. . . Fred.It is a class a gm 92 thor pinnacle.I have never changed the brake fluid but i have recently changed the power steering pump because i was getting a lot of noise from it and that cured that but i have always had a problem with the brakes that seem to take a lot of effort to stop and a lot of travel before getting any feel.I have not really been to worried about it untill the light started coming on which to me indicates a problem.Not sure if it should come on when there is air in the system?I am not sure what a flex line with a bubble on it is or if i have ever seen one but sounds like something i should check for.
joe0508 11/24/15 08:17pm Tech Issues
RE: hydroboost diagnosis test

Sounds to me like you have air in the brake lines. Have you ever had the brake system bled? or Brake Fluid Contamination Over time, brake fluid will absorb moisture and this can also cause spongy pedal problems. Water can get into the system through the rubber brake lines. It will lower the boiling point of the fluid so that, under heavy braking, the heat forms bubbles of gas in the fluid itself. This gas is compressible (whereas brake fluid is not); hence the spongy feel in the brakes. Brake fluid needs to be changed every so often. It was news to me when m mechanic told me but he was right. MAKES A DifferenceThanks for the info.The fluid does seem to look pretty dark.Those two items will be on my top list bleed all for corners and change the fluid.Do you know on the hydrobooster when you change the brake fluid do you have to change the power steering fluid also?I know the two work together.I hope not because i here their is a special technique for bleeding the power steering system and im not sure if most techs is gonna know this.
joe0508 11/24/15 07:31pm Tech Issues
RE: hydroboost diagnosis test

I hope that is all it is and to aswer your question i havent done anything to the brakes since i got it except turn the front rotors and change the front pads.I had problems before i did these items with the brakes but the light is recent.I dont think the items i had repaired had anything to do with it because the light issue started happening long after.
joe0508 11/24/15 07:14pm Tech Issues
RE: hydroboost diagnosis test

I hope that is all it is and to aswer your question i havent done anything to the brakes since i got it except turn the front rotors and change the front pads.I had problems before i did these items with the brakes but the light light is recent.I dont think the items i had repaired had anything to do with it because the light issue started happening long after.
joe0508 11/24/15 07:13pm Tech Issues
hydroboost diagnosis test

I have been having a problem with my brakes here lately and i am in the process of taking it in for a diagnosis.The problem is the brakes doesnt seem to have the stopping power they should have and they are spongy.They seem to go the better part of the way to the floor before i get any response.If i hit them hard the brake light will ficker on the dash.One time it came on and stayed on and wouldnt go off untill one day i was missing around and while it was idling i pumped the brake very lightly a couple of times and it went out i thought that was strange.I have checked the fluid in the master cylinder and it is full almost to full.The power steering fluid is good.The belts and dont see any leaks.I have tryed a diagnosis test on the hydrobooster that i found on the net and when i turn the engine off and pump the brakes to discharge the accumulator it says the pedal should harden noticeably but it doesnt make a difference although when the motor is running it will pump up.At least when im going down the road.Havnt tryed it at a stand still yet.Anybody have any ideas?I dont wont to replace the booster if it is the master cylinder.
joe0508 11/24/15 06:50pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2016 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS