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 > Your search for posts made by 'rk911' found 548 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Do I really need a RV Garmin?

OK Let's reword the question and try again for us non-smart phone people. If you were buying a stand alone GPS unit do you need to spend the extra for an"RV" model or will a regular "Automobile" version work? the only reason to have the RV version is for underpass clearance and weight restricted roads. given the size of your RV I'd say the auto version would be sufficient but if you plan on actually using it then I'd spring for the RV version. you won't need it until you do.
rk911 08/06/17 03:06pm Technology Corner
RE: Do I really need a RV Garmin?

need as in absotively, posilutely, don't-leave-home-without-it? no. we traveled for years without any sort of GPS in the MH and managed quite well. is it a good idea? I think so especially those that are RV specific in terms of knowing the dimensions, weight and whether you have a toad or not. our Rand McNally GPS is now part of the infotainment system in the MH and while I don't think it's as useful as our old Street Atlas I still use it on every trip. as you mentioned putting complete trust in a GPS...or a set of maps for that matter...is not wise. if I was buying a stand alone system I would want to make sure what if any cost is associated with updating the maps and database before I purchase.
rk911 08/06/17 01:07pm Technology Corner
RE: Old motorhome. Newbie RVer

What other gadgets do I need for a trip? Water filter? Water pressure gauge? Electric tester thingy? How much propane do you travel with for a weekend? Do you travel el with two 20s? Please share your tips and favorite add ons - we did quite nicely for the first 15-yrs without a water filter until our second MH came equipped with one. i don't consider one a 'must'. - a water pressure regulator is a good idea as long as it's a real regulator. the cheapies fir <$10 don't do a proper job. look into a Watts pressure regulator. - if by electric tester thingy you mean a meter to check the voltage and polarity at the post BEFORE you hookup then yes i would get a VOM...volt ohm meter. - suggest you fill your LP tanks rather than trying to guess how much you'll need.
rk911 08/05/17 11:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Toad and auxiliary brake stop and go testing

First time going to tow my jeep, I have roadmaster auxiliary brake. Before starting to tow I plug everything and do the brake test and start to tow, what about I stop in rest area or pull over during night, do I need to test everything again and go or is it ok not to do that? Any inputs are appreciated. Smokey we call that a "light check". the wife sits behind the wheel of the MH and I stand back behind the toad. using walkie-talkies we test everything...brake lights, turn signals, 4-way flashers and tail lights...ensuring that each functions correctly on both the toad and MH. she then pulls the MH/toad forward a few feet to ensure that the toad wheels are turning freely. this is always the next to last thing we do before leaving a campground or park (the final thing being a final walk-around the MH and campsite). and we may do it again depending on where we stop for lunch on a travel day. there's no right or wrong way to do it or a rule on when and how often you need to do it other than a daily check before you break camp. if it makes you comfortable to check it more often then by all means do it. I know that when we first started to tow back in 2003 I did it everytime we stopped for more than a few minutes...nervous, I guess. but over time I've become comfortable towing...comfortable but not complacent. every now and then when we're doing our 'light check' I discover a problem. that's happened often enough after 14-yrs of towing to keep me from becoming complacent. Thanks for your reply my question was more towards do I need to retest the auxiliary brake system, e.g. If I stop for lunch or bathroom brake. Smokey and i answered you. our light test IS a test of our toads aux braking system as well as the connectivity of the electrical umbillical. when the driver of the MH steps on the MH brakes the brake lights on your toad should light up as well indicating that your aux brake is working. we check it before leaving in the morning which is suffcient for us. checking it as often as you feel necessary is up to you.
rk911 08/04/17 08:49pm General RVing Issues
RE: Toad and auxiliary brake stop and go testing

First time going to tow my jeep, I have roadmaster auxiliary brake. Before starting to tow I plug everything and do the brake test and start to tow, what about I stop in rest area or pull over during night, do I need to test everything again and go or is it ok not to do that? Any inputs are appreciated. Smokey we call that a "light check". the wife sits behind the wheel of the MH and I stand back behind the toad. using walkie-talkies we test everything...brake lights, turn signals, 4-way flashers and tail lights...ensuring that each functions correctly on both the toad and MH. she then pulls the MH/toad forward a few feet to ensure that the toad wheels are turning freely. this is always the next to last thing we do before leaving a campground or park (the final thing being a final walk-around the MH and campsite). and we may do it again depending on where we stop for lunch on a travel day. there's no right or wrong way to do it or a rule on when and how often you need to do it other than a daily check before you break camp. if it makes you comfortable to check it more often then by all means do it. I know that when we first started to tow back in 2003 I did it everytime we stopped for more than a few minutes...nervous, I guess. but over time I've become comfortable towing...comfortable but not complacent. every now and then when we're doing our 'light check' I discover a problem. that's happened often enough after 14-yrs of towing to keep me from becoming complacent. Thanks for your reply my question was more towards do I need to retest the auxiliary brake system, e.g. If I stop for lunch or bathroom brake. Smokey and i answered you. our light test IS a text of our toads aux braking system as well as the connectivity of the electrical umbillical. when the driver of the MH steps on the MH brakes the brake lights on your toad should light up as well indicating that your aux brake is working.
rk911 08/04/17 08:47pm General RVing Issues
RE: Toad and auxiliary brake stop and go testing

First time going to tow my jeep, I have roadmaster auxiliary brake. Before starting to tow I plug everything and do the brake test and start to tow, what about I stop in rest area or pull over during night, do I need to test everything again and go or is it ok not to do that? Any inputs are appreciated. Smokey we call that a "light check". the wife sits behind the wheel of the MH and I stand back behind the toad. using walkie-talkies we test everything...brake lights, turn signals, 4-way flashers and tail lights...ensuring that each functions correctly on both the toad and MH. she then pulls the MH/toad forward a few feet to ensure that the toad wheels are turning freely. this is always the next to last thing we do before leaving a campground or park (the final thing being a final walk-around the MH and campsite). and we may do it again depending on where we stop for lunch on a travel day. there's no right or wrong way to do it or a rule on when and how often you need to do it other than a daily check before you break camp. if it makes you comfortable to check it more often then by all means do it. I know that when we first started to tow back in 2003 I did it everytime we stopped for more than a few minutes...nervous, I guess. but over time I've become comfortable towing...comfortable but not complacent. every now and then when we're doing our 'light check' I discover a problem. that's happened often enough after 14-yrs of towing to keep me from becoming complacent.
rk911 08/04/17 04:57pm General RVing Issues
RE: Hot Water Heater Just stopped working

...The thing that has me worried is that the gas flame sputters quite a bit, almost like maybe getting too much air. I will try adjusted the sleeve that controls air flow. Now, back to that bad/blown Therm-custoff fuse, I do not see a reason for it just blowing unless it is getting too much heat back-blow from the burner. Is it possible that the flame being out of adjustment could have caused the issue? Or might the t-stat also be bad and have something to do with it? that's exactly what happened with our WH (same model as yours). the thermal cutoff (TC) had blown and once I bypassed it the WH worked again. I picked up a couple of new TC units, used one to replace the bad one and kept the other as a spare. they are very inexpensive and EZ to replace. beyond that I would adjust the flame as needed. and you don't need a by-pass wire...just connect the brown wire from the control board to the TSTAT terminal. Would it be wise to replace the t-stat and the thermal cutoff fuse at the same time, or is that overkill? overkill in my estimation. the gas flame can be adjusted so replace the TC, adjust the flame and go from there.
rk911 08/03/17 09:11am Tech Issues
RE: Water Heater

...bad thermal cutoff (TC) essentially a fusible link that protects the heater from a flashback.... http://bananaboatbytes.com/images/Suncruiser/thermal_cutoff.jpg Above info and picture are for an Atwood water heater. OP says his is Suburban. They don't use that fusible link. Maybe should, but they don't. OP - Can you furnish the Model of this Suburban? Should be visible from outside, lower right corner of the mounting frame. oops...posted this to the wrong thread. sorry.
rk911 08/03/17 09:02am Tech Issues
RE: Water Heater

we have the same water heater (WH) and had the same problem on our spring trip. long story short the problem for us was a bad thermal cutoff (TC) essentially a fusible link that protects the heater from a flashback. the water heater can operate without the TC but if the TC is bad it should be replaced. it is easily removed for testing and bypassed if needed. check out the photo below which shows the location of the thermal cutoff. your WH should be exactly the same. - be sure both the electric and LP switches to the WH are off - note where the TC is connected at both ends. there should be a brown wire running from the control board to the right end of the TC. carefully remove it...it's held in place by push-on connectors. the other (left) end of the TC is connected by another push-on connector to the BRN TSTAT terminal. carefully remove the TC from that terminal. - using a Volt-Ohm meter check for continuity like you would a fuse. if continuity is present then replace the TC as this is not your problem but if continuity is missing then just replace the TC. - to bypass the now removed TC simply connect the brown wire from the control board to the BRN TSTAT terminal. your water heater should now function properly. replacement TCs can be found at RV parts dealers or online. they run a couple of dollars each. I now carry a spare in my toolbox. good luck. http://bananaboatbytes.com/images/Suncruiser/thermal_cutoff.jpg
rk911 08/03/17 08:16am Tech Issues
RE: EZ Pass

True, some charge $1 per month. In the grand scheme of things, I'm not going to sweat $12 per year. ok but why pay it if you can get the same device elsewhere for no monthly cost?
rk911 08/02/17 07:14pm Technology Corner
RE: EZ Pass

Illinois also has no monthly fees and you do not need to be a resident to get one. Illinois does require you maintain a balance of $40 which is refunded when the account is closed. there is also a $10 deposit also refunded if the transponder is returned. the Illinois I-Pass is accepted in Indiana and in all EZ Pass states.
rk911 08/02/17 06:44pm Technology Corner
RE: Satellite or other choices

I am moving on up now and know nothing about what I am doing. Took the old 19 inch monster out of the living room and planning on replacing it with a 28 on a swivel mount. The bed room has a shelve for a tv which I had a small flat screen there. I have taken the shelve out and putting a 24 inch on a swivel there. All the wiring is in place and everything works of the free air. I am looking at Dish satellite which I have in my home and am wondering what is the way to go to have both tv's at the same time. My DW and I watch different programs, lol. I hear people talk about cutting the cord but that is Greek to my old butt. you'll need an antenna and receiver capable of dual-mode reception (different pgms on two tv sets). I had many of the same questions a few years ago so I called Solid Signals. they are an authorized DISH and DirecTV re-seller and can answer all your questions and set you up with service and provide anything else you need. give them a call at 877-312-4547.
rk911 08/01/17 11:26am Technology Corner
RE: CD PLAYER door problem???

found an online manual for the unit by searching 'cd player qx-3201'. manual is for a model qx-3202 but appears to be the same unit. manual says if cd door won't open to press the button a second time. manual
rk911 08/01/17 05:32am Tech Issues
RE: CD PLAYER door problem???

joelyn, i took a look at all of our CD players and all but one had an ejector hole. take another look at the front of your player, not just on the door but at the entire front.
rk911 07/31/17 09:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Creeping slide

My 1997 Winnebago Chieftain has one living room slide. Even when I have the 2 floor latches locked the slide will move out an inch or two. Thoughts on fixing this? Thank you in advance. we had a similar problem on our '00 Itasca MH. problem was a bad solenoid.
rk911 07/31/17 05:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: CD PLAYER door problem???

DID CHECK IT RICH BUT NOTHING THERE. THANKS hmmm. you might check the owner's manual. sorry i can't be more help.
rk911 07/31/17 06:27am Tech Issues
RE: CD PLAYER door problem???

have one of those built in radio CD players in the TT and i haven't played the CD for awhile... today i decided to play one and i pushed the door button and the CD door will not open... i tried to push on it and wiggle the door but still nothing. Any tricks to get the door open to play a CD??? look closely at the door. you should see a tiny hole. straighten a small paperclip and insert it gently into the hole and push. the door should open.
rk911 07/29/17 10:16pm Tech Issues
RE: This kinda thing can't help but keep fuel prices down.

Yes to all the above but remember. Tesla is not a car company, it is a technology company. Cars are just one thing they do. Tesla is also the single biggest driver of this kind of technology in North America right now, meaning that what they do also drives other companies to develop technology marketable the world over. Although there are many who would like to see Tesla fail for various reasons there is currently no other players in the north American market that will easily fill the void. Many analysts feel that if it does fail the technology leadership role will pass to the Chinese and Europe and never come back. At least three European countries have been tempting Tesla with offers to move the operation to various EU locations. As well the Chinese will be exporting electric vehicles into the North American market place within two to three years. There is political pressure to see them succeed on this side of the pond. I'm not a share holder and both our EV's are built by other companies but I can understand the reasoning for "enabling" there success. Just saying. Tesla talks about being a technology company but they haven't sold anything else but cars, so that makes them a car company until they start selling other things. They also aren't pushing the other car companies. The other car companies are reacting to govt mandates or they wouldn't be bothering. Notice, Ford didn't get caught up in the govt bailout is also much less interested in pure electric. GM who was essentially taken over by the Govt, fast tracked a pure electric car. If you want to point to autonomous systems, everyone does variations on those and for years has had programs developing them. Only difference is as a small start up, Tesla is taking far riskier approach and not vetting the systems as well. Large mature companies take a more circumspect approach as they have seen the issues with moving too quickly. Mike I think I'll respectfully disagree on this one. I see lots of spinoff industry developing. There is also powerwall sales, EV roof sales, solar panel manufacturing, even supercharger network and infrastructure development all generating jobs and exports. About half of their cars are built for export and although I'm not an American I catch snippets of news that indicate that is an important issue in your country right now. As well , every S and X sold in the US is a BMW or Benz not imported. JMHO Mike. Safe travels. Tesla is a car company that tries to be a technology company. It pretty much fails miserably at both. CR does not recommend Tesla. Too many problems. This is a $120,000 dollar luxury car! Or tries to be! Remember, Tesla had this same car for many, many years now and it still has all of these problems. Now lets look at how many solar panels they make: Link Do you see Tesla on this chart? And some listed make less than 1%. I have already showed you that they don't make a profit in the other post. They don't make reliable cars. They don't make a profit. They only make a few solar panels a year. I have to ask: what do they do well? :? You do realize that CR bit is from two years back,right!? Right now Tesla has 500.000 customers preordered model 3 that tells me more then anti Tesla propaganda by CR and other EV haters They dont need to make a profit,they reinvest expand their factories..to be bigger.. Btw Tesla co.is worth more then GM.. Id even wager Tesla will become worlds biggest EV maker soon,,they even have Tesla semi truck coming out soon https://electrek.co umm, just because some of us have expressed an opinion differing from yours regarding EV's doesn't make us "haters" and i for one resent that. the word hater like racist & homophobe are tossed around pretty loosely and irresponsibly these days. btw, an article in the paper this morning put the pre-orders for the model 3 closer to 300k. the $35,0000 price tag is expected to rise to between $40-$45k with options. in the US only the first 200,000 may get the $7500 tax credit.
rk911 07/29/17 08:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Indoor Amplified HDTV Antenna's

"Do they work" is totally subjective. There is no substitute for an obstruction free REAL directional antenna mounted off the roof. These indoor antennas are last resort only. Well for me it is NOT a last resort. If was my first choice and very happy with results. BTW: When I bought my Florida winter house and was remodeling it I ran a coax cable from the TV inside the house to the inside of the MH and plugged into booster. Then I bought the inside antenna and mounted it on inside wall. Which is several feet 'lower' than the batwing on MH. I actually get more channels with the indoor antenna. Mounted exactly across from MH batwing and as mentioned mounted significantly lower. I too was very surprised of the results. It was purchased as a temporary situation but in light of results I will not be replacing it with an outdoor antenna. Does anyone have any experience with these types of TV antenna's To the OP, yes they do work if you buy the best one available.there is simply no way an inside or stick-on antenna of any kind will perform as well as any working external antenna, especially a working Batwing and there's no amount of talk that will change the fact that an in the open and elevated antenna is simply a better solution. These antennas, just like the old Rabbit Ears ARE a last resort when you cannot use an outside antenna, and you get what you get... simple as that. There should be no reason to go into what obstructions of any kind do to RF, and THAT is what kills these cheap little antennas. If you claim this panel antenna works better than your Batwing, then it's broken, period. So to the OP: and they any good? NO! Just like Rabbit Ears, if it's that's all there is then obviously it's your only choice Should probably just let this go BUT. I respectively take offense when you refer to my post as "no amount of talk will change the fact". Have you tried it? Do you have one? I do. My neighbor has an outdoor antenna that is 2 times the height of his house and he gets the same exact channels I do using an indoor amplified antenna. Who are you to say they don't work when a forum member is using one and states that it does. :? :? It DOES matter WHICH one you purchase. Have a nice day. :C in an ueban/suburban environment it's not at all surprising to see the results you mention. before i re-did all of the cablingin our house i was able to receive all of the metro chicago hdtv broadcasts with a broken amateur radio vhf ground plane antenna... 18" tall with 2 missing radials. and just for kicks i disconnected that and stuck a large straightened paperclip into the RF antenna port and still received most stations. but my house is located 30-air miles fm downtown chicago...in the primary service zone. again...what most of us have been saying is that the farther out you are the more important HAAT (height above avg terrain) is. meaning your tv antenna. the higher the better. if the OP has a malfunctioning batwing before i'd do anything i would replace the coax between the antenna and roof connection. coax does wear out from uv rays and water can invade the coax jacket.
rk911 07/29/17 07:09pm Technology Corner
RE: Worst dealer offer ever?

They are giving you 31K to pay off your old camper. You get nothing. Numbers are right. the op has a 15-yr old trailer and still owes 31k??? when you find yourself in a hole best stop digging. I think it was a 1.5 year old trailer. my mistake. apologies.
rk911 07/29/17 07:52am General RVing Issues
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