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 > Your search for posts made by 'rk911' found 579 matches.

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RE: Wrangler TJ

I was curious if anyone was towing 4-down a TJ Wrangler with the venerable 4.0L Strait 6 (automatic). Any thoughts comments appreciated. Thanks, Vince yes, we used to (and still occasionally do) tow our 2003 TJ (6 cyl/automatic). key to unlocked OFF position, txfr case to neutral, tranny to park.
rk911 02/07/17 09:54am Dinghy Towing
RE: Satellite radio

Hi all, Looking for advice on how to route an antenna cable from the roof on my motorhome. I'll be using a portable radio but the antenna will stay put. Also would be interested in alternative antenna options. The radio will be on or near the dash panel. Thanks in our previous motorhome we had a multi-disc CD player in the overhead cabinet in front of and above the driver's seat. our magnetic base satellite antenna was placed on top of the CD player. no significant issues.
rk911 02/07/17 09:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Been thinking...need advice...

From the O.P.: Here's what I've found so far: The GCWR for the '17 Gemini is: 13,500 The coach weighs 10,360 The Honda CRV 3,400 Total 13,760 Sooo, I'm already over the stated GCWR without including weight of passengers, dogs, food, clothing, etc.etc. Am I right?? If so, the deal for the Gemini is out. I pulled up the specs for the '17 Gemini and see that the GVWR of the coach is 10,360. that's the total weight the chassis can support (including itself). it would be a very strange coincidence if that's what your Gemini actually weighs. since you don't own it you need to see if the dealer will weigh it for you (get weights on each axle); then compute the extra weight of full fuel, water and LP tanks on the affected axle (usually the rear). i'll bet you won't have more than 2000-lbs of payload after that. and you'll need to know the payload on each axle to be sure neither is overweight. assuming that neither axle is overweight when FULLY loaded then your max towing capacity is 3140-lbs. and for every pound the FULLY loaded MH weighs adds a pound to the max towing weight up to a GCWR of 13,500 (the total weight the MH can propel including itself).
rk911 02/06/17 10:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Been thinking...need advice...

From the O.P.: Here's what I've found so far: The GCWR for the '17 Gemini is: 13,500 The coach weighs 10,360 The Honda CRV 3,400 Total 13,760 Sooo, I'm already over the stated GCWR without including weight of passengers, dogs, food, clothing, etc.etc. Am I right?? If so, the deal for the Gemini is out. Their website states GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT is 10,360..I'm sure they mean GVWR.
rk911 02/06/17 10:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Been thinking...need advice...

From the O.P.: Here's what I've found so far: The GCWR for the '17 Gemini is: 13,500 The coach weighs 10,360 The Honda CRV 3,400 Total 13,760 Sooo, I'm already over the stated GCWR without including weight of passengers, dogs, food, clothing, etc.etc. Am I right?? If so, the deal for the Gemini is out. I pulled up the specs for the '17 Gemini and see that the GVWR of the coach is 10,360. that's the total weight the chassis can support (including itself). it would be a very strange coincidence if that's what your Gemini actually weighs. since you don't own it you need to see if the dealer will weigh it for you (get weights on each axle); then compute the extra weight of full fuel, water and LP tanks on the affected axle (usually the rear). i'll bet you won't have more than 2000-lbs of payload after that. and you'll need to know the payload on each axle to be sure neither is overweight. assuming that neither axle is overweight when loaded then your max towing capacity is 3140-lbs.
rk911 02/06/17 09:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: AXESS TV

Considering buying an AXESS 19" ac/dc LED TV with built-in DVD. Only $126. Many of the reviews don't speak well of the DVD option. Any here have experience with the AXESS brand? Would another brand perhaps be better? Built-in DVD is a must. just curious...why must it be a built-in DVD? if either the TV or DVD goes toes up you're looking at either a repair or replacement. in my experience and circle of friends the odds are the DVD will go bad.
rk911 02/06/17 09:48am Technology Corner
RE: Been thinking...need advice...

I've posted other requests for information regarding this subject and received good replies. The subject is downsizing from a Class A to a Class C. We're right on the cusp of signing a contract but I have one remaining concern. We're looking at a '17 Thor Gemini. It's on a Ford chassis with a 5 cyl. diesel engine. Now the question: Our toad is a 3200# CRV. Will the 5 cyl. engine be adequate to pull the CRV even on mtn. grades? Most of our travel is in flat-land but occasionally will hit grades in Wesern N.C. / Will appreciate any thoughts or advice regarding this. / Thanks. , Larry you need to know the various weights and weight ratings (by axle) of the MH. in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following: - the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.) - the weight rating of your tow bar - the weight rating of your hitch this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs as it is loaded and configured for travel before spending dollar 1. Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc.
rk911 02/05/17 06:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing a GMC 2500HD silly?

I have a chance at buying a 2500 at a great price. I tow a Wrangler Unlimited now. Is it just to big? Rig is a 42 American with 450plus HP. Thanks what does the GMC weigh with a full tank of gas but otherwise empty? what does your MH weigh (by axle) when fully loaded for travel? in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following: - the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.) - the weight rating of your tow bar - the weight rating of your hitch this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad. Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc.
rk911 02/04/17 11:07am Dinghy Towing
RE: The real cost of camping vs not

We just had our 5th totaled by the Ins. co. due to a roof tear that happened unnoticed during the season last season, causing 3 of the walls to delaminate. Big bummer for something that had only seen 4 summers. So the question came up, how much does a camping trip actually cost? Should we just take the money and do more conventional travel? I won't get into all the nitty gritty, as everyone's actual use and numbers vary by a huge amount. But for us (2 people), camping generally meant long road trips, for weeks at a time. Not worrying about being frugal on campsites (we did a lot of KOA's, for example). Taking the dogs. Eating out when we felt like it. Doing some tourist tours/attractions. Non-camping meant 2 week trips, some with airfare, some driving, dogs in a kennel. We did not have to pay for hotel/motel at our destinations (stayed with family, etc.) We never rented a car. Very few admissions/fees to see things. We did, however have to dine out a LOT more. The only thing not counted in either were groceries - we'd do that even if we just stayed home! So comparing all up expenses for the two types of travel, including the front loaded loss on the camper due to depreciation (and maint. and storage, etc.) we averaged $242 per day for 126 days of the lifestyle. For non-RV, we averaged $298 per day over 42 days. Throw in an extra at least $100 per day if we had to pay for lodging, let alone car rental, and it seems pretty clear which way is more cost effective. Of course if we could have used the 5th for it's full depreciation life, the cost of ownership per camping day would have dropped. And there are lots of ways to economize that we didn't worry about - so it is easy to come in under our amount. Probably by a LOT. But given what appears to be the low side number for conventional travel, and how it only can get more complex/costly to see many of the same places it is easy to go camping at..... Looks like we are making the reinvestment in a new RV! there's just the two of us as well, plus Maggie the Super Beagle. for us it's not about what it costs in $...it's about relaxing and living on our schedule and to us that's priceless. airline schedules, the TSA, rental cars, hotels, restaurants....yikes. for us that's anything but relaxing and living on our schedule.
rk911 02/03/17 09:58am General RVing Issues
RE: 120 volt outlets not working, need help!

Hi all, I purchased a 2005 Dolphin class A motorhome last year and it has been great. However today while cleaning it I noticed the tv cabinet had no power. My motorhome is plugged into a 30 amp outlet at my home. I used a tester and I am getting full power at the breaker box. No breakers are tripped. I thought for sure it was going to be a GFI, however I checked all of them and they are not tripped and all have power. There are 3 unless I missed one, but I don't think so. The outlets not working are in the tv cabinet above the passenger seat, one outlet down by the floor next to the passenger seat, the rear bedroom outlet for the rear tv, and oddly enough, the refrigerator outlet. There was a 2nd, unused outlet in the refrigerator panel that worked, so I replugged into that. I don't know what else to check? Thanks, Mike you probably missed a GFI. check your storage bays for one. plan b...if the TV outlet is the only outlet affected you might pull the plate and make sure the wiring hasn't disconnected from the rear.
rk911 02/01/17 10:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gas or Electric (residential) Refrigerator?

Six months ago we were in a head on accident that destroyed our RV and despite still being shell shocked we're now considering having a new one built to our specs. The last 3 trips in the old Beast had multiple 3-4 week boondocking periods (no connections of any type) and the new coach needs to allow us to do the same. The wife firmly wants the same old propane fridge we used for years, but everyone seems to be buying residential fridges today. Is it practical to boondock for 3-4 weeks with a residential R in New England/Canada? Obviously 8 6 volts minimum, possibly 12, but initially we'd have no solar and rely on gen and inverter. We'll have 180 A of DC charging capability. Later we'll travel to the high sun lands of the Southwest, and probably add solar then. I've read lots of comments, but I've had the smartest advice from this forum. I'll admit I also lean towards propane, as I've had good luck over the last 45 years using it, but I've read of many with problems, and those selling the coach seem kind of shocked we're putting a propane R in this type of coach. Comments welcome. in your case an 2-way RV fridge makes sense. our boondocking days are pretty much over and the one thing we had to have in the new MH we purchased last year was a residential fridge. it is sooooo much nicer and a whole lot less stressful for me than that *&*%&*( RV fridge.
rk911 02/01/17 09:38am Tech Issues
RE: Home Base for Winter or Summer

I have been having a discussion with a co-worker regarding retirement and RVing (Camping). My thoughts are to have a home base(sticks and Bricks) located in the north for use in the summer months and traveling south to warmer climates for some of the colder months. My co-worker believes the opposite, live in the warmer south and travel northerly during the warmer months. Curious as to what other forum members think regarding the pros and cons of each scenario. The home base necessity has already been determined. sunbirds vs snowbirds...my wife and I have had this same conversation. we're still yaking about it but I see it this way. if something should happen that would require us to stay off the road either permanently or temporarily where would we want to call home? sure, you can always move but I'm looking at it as a sudden onset of illness. we're both sick and tired of snow and hope to never see it again.
rk911 02/01/17 09:36am Snowbirds
RE: Buying a used Class A Repairs to Expect?

Hi There! I'm looking at an older Class A RV to renovate for a 1-2 year adventure with my family. Right now I'm looking at a 1998 Fleetwood Southwind (30' with a Ford engine and 35K miles.) I could get this for just over 10K. I've researched these Southwind's and have mostly found people saying they loved them and that they ran great for them. Now I realize that I will need to budget some funds for repairs/renovations but I would love some input on what I may be looking at for tuning a vehicle like this up. Any advice on what I should consider when purchasing a vehicle would be appreciated. Thanks! James first off, anything made of rubber should be thoroughly examined...tires, gaskets, hoses, belts, etc. next, change ALL the fluids and i might have the drained oil analyzed. next, the battery(ies) should all be load tested and if older than, say, 48-60 months replace them. but unless you're a really good mechanic i'd have the unit professionally examined and vetted before purchase.
rk911 01/31/17 09:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Life Expectancy of new RV

For a new 5th wheel (or TT) can I expect to get 10 - 15 years from it? We will not be full-timing, just using it for weekend getaways and the week long vacation 1 or 2 times a year. I plan on keeping it under a cover when not in use, and staying on top of maintenance items such as roof and axles. I realize there will probably be some initial warranty work in the first year, but after that is done, can I reasonably expect my RV to last a while? Looking around Facebook and Craigslist, I see a lot of 10 - 15 year old RV's for sale, that look like junk now. 10-15 years is easy...IF you keep up with maintenance and not let the little things go unchecked. we've kept our two previous motorhomes 15-years each and made the change not because they were run down but because we just wanted something new.
rk911 01/30/17 04:41pm General RVing Issues
RE: Staying Clean

We're just getting into RV life in a Class A with plans to be full-time in 5-7 years (depends on how long the teens take to be on their own once they graduate HS!). I am looking for some good suggestions in keeping the RV clean. First & foremost, I am interested to know what kind of vacuum would be best for the RV. I know to watch for extra weight and space, but the tiny vacuum I bought for this past summer did not keep up with the dirt that came in (no matter how many times I remind everyone to take their shoes off, they don't remember). Also, how often do you find it necessary to actually clean windows, fridge, and the like? Thanks in advance for any advice! BTW: We camped in a pop up for a few years and then moved to a TT & got the Class A last summer, so adjusting to space isn't an issue for me (I've already started downsizing in preparation for full-timing!). we had carried a 12-amp Dirt Devil upright up until last fall when we had a built-in Dirt Devil installed in the new MH.
rk911 01/28/17 05:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: WiFi when cable other availabldE.

This spring and summer we will be staying at a park that does not have cable nor wifi. We stream alot of movies and other programs using Roku. What would be a good way to access the Internet? Unlimited cell phone packages are very expensive for the amount of data I think we'll be using. Any suggestions? the basic ways to access the net are limited to: cellular, wifi, satellite, cable and DSL (phone company landline). T-Mobile has some sort of unlimited data plan going on now. if the park offers landline hookups at their sites you could look into a DSL connection. what about a DISH pay-as-you-go account coupled with a portable dish antenna for your movies?
rk911 01/26/17 01:17pm Technology Corner
RE: Thoughts on oil change intervals (time, not mileage)

It seems to me that most everything you read talks about changing your oil every so many miles or every twelve months. I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my Ford V10 motorhome and typically change it every 5,000 miles. Upon occasion, more than a year will pass without me racking up 5,000 miles. However, since I drive the rig often and it gets up to operating temperature for extended periods of time, I'm thinking that the one year "limit" is essentially meaningless. Thoughts? it may be overkill but i change oil in our gasser every 6-mos/5000 miles, whichever comes first. it's not a bad thing to change your oil frequently.
rk911 01/25/17 09:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Dish Pay as You Go confusion

When done you pay 5.00.00 and they put your acct on hold till you pay the next payment.And everything can be done online or by text DO NOT let them put your Pay as you go account on PAUSE. DO NOT ASK FOR PAUSE OR SYSPEND. When you are done using your Pay as you go monthly service you can either just let it lapse or call them and ask that it be terminated or cancelled. If terminated or cancelled, Dish WILL credit your account and the next time you start a 30 day Pay as you go session they should credit a pro-rated Amount from your previously unfinished 30 day period. This is what they have done for me and others. xCaveat - the customer service reps do tend to be totally ignorant on Pay as you go accounts....you may have to ask for a supervisor if you have difficulty with our telephone rep. that's true, however, the special channel discounts will disappear and you may have a re-activation fee. if you just stop paying your bill the account will remain in force but inactive until such time as you pay the equivalent of one month. Sorry but this is incorrect. The Pay-As-You-GO payment option operates exactly as Ed Gee described. You prepay for 30 days of service. You can CANCEL or DISCONNECT your service at any time and the remaining unused balance remains as a credit until you restart your service. I began using this plan over 8 years ago when PACE Communications helped develop this payment plan option for the RV industry in conjunction with DISH Network. i'm not wrong...and neither is ed. re-read my reply and you'll see thst my first two words in response to ed were...that's true mean g ed is correct but with a caveat. if you cancel or disconnect you will lose any special channel discounts. and there may be re-connect charges when you start up again (depending on the CSR you get and policies in effect at that time.
rk911 01/25/17 07:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dish Pay as You Go confusion

When done you pay 5.00.00 and they put your acct on hold till you pay the next payment.And everything can be done online or by text DO NOT let them put your Pay as you go account on PAUSE. DO NOT ASK FOR PAUSE OR SYSPEND. When you are done using your Pay as you go monthly service you can either just let it lapse or call them and ask that it be terminated or cancelled. If terminated or cancelled, Dish WILL credit your account and the next time you start a 30 day Pay as you go session they should credit a pro-rated Amount from your previously unfinished 30 day period. This is what they have done for me and others. xCaveat - the customer service reps do tend to be totally ignorant on Pay as you go accounts....you may have to ask for a supervisor if you have difficulty with our telephone rep. that's true, however, the special channel discounts will disappear and you may have a re-activation fee. if you just stop paying your bill the account will remain in force but inactive until such time as you pay the equivalent of one month.
rk911 01/25/17 06:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dish Pay as You Go confusion

When done you pay 5.00.00 and they put your acct on hold till you pay the next payment.And everything can be done online or by text that's one way. the other way is to just don't pay the bill. the account will go dormant until you pay the equivalent of one month. if you put the account on hold you will lose whatever special channel discounts you might have. for example, we get HBO for $10 per month...that was a special they were running back in 2015. if we put the account on "hold" and pay the $5 per month that HBO discount disappears. by simply not paying the bill the HBO discount is preserved.
rk911 01/25/17 06:36pm Class A Motorhomes
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