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 > Your search for posts made by 'rk911' found 530 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 50A Idea

Thank you everyone. I get it. 50A plug with adapter helps me none. well, actually it might. if the 50-amp outlet is mostly unused you may actually get a better connection than on the more often used 30-amp connection. a better connection = better flow of electrons. our MH has 30-amp service but in parks where there are both 30 and 50 amp hookups we will sometimes connect to the 50-amp if we experience low voltage on the 30-amp connection. sometimes that "solves" the problem, sometimes no.
rk911 08/26/14 04:56pm General RVing Issues
RE: 50A Idea

We spend the summer in an old park in Colorado. They have 30s and 120s. We get their early and get a 30. We can use 1A/C, and have learned when to tour off A/C, to run microwave and etc. It's just something you learn. I would not fiddle with the power,just learn what to turn off. 120's???? :h 15/20A receptacle (120's....regular outlet) okaaaay. the 30s, as well as the 50s are also 120-volts.
rk911 08/26/14 04:52pm General RVing Issues
RE: 50A Idea

We spend the summer in an old park in Colorado. They have 30s and 120s. We get their early and get a 30. We can use 1A/C, and have learned when to tour off A/C, to run microwave and etc. It's just something you learn. I would not fiddle with the power,just learn what to turn off. 120's???? :h
rk911 08/26/14 01:25pm General RVing Issues
RE: 50A Idea

The biggest difference (And this may help) is that instead of having to get dressed and to out and reset the PARK breaker, You will trip your own 30 amp Main breaker inside the RV. YOU DO NOT WANT TO DRAW more than 30 amps through your shore cord else you may get a visit from the local fire dept.. They still make house calls you know. if his RV has 30-amp service I don't see how he could draw more than that without tripping the main RV breaker. He can only draw what he can draw.
rk911 08/26/14 01:24pm General RVing Issues
RE: 50A Idea

I am by NO means an electrical engineer. I still don't know 100% what the true difference is between amps and watts and volts. But I had a recent idea and I wonder if this would help us out with our Work & Play (30amps). We've taken the camper out three times so far. The first was to Willow Tree. During the weekend, the breaker at Willow Tree's pole tripped twice. We were on the 30A plug and both times, the AC was running and the water heater was on. At our recent race, we were on the generator power. My generator puts out gobs of power. 10.5KW rated with 13KW surge watts. The only issue we had was the AC tripped its own breaker one time. When the water heater is on, the AC is running, the TV is on, and maybe Mama decides to dry her hair or make some toast, we're pulling a lot of power. So the question. If I start plugging into a 50A outlet with a 30A adapter, would this help us out at all? In other words, would we be getting the same 110 volts but 50amps? I still have a 30A cord so that may reduce it. But does this make sense or will it not help us out at all? As I said, I'm not sure about electrical stuff but I'm hoping this could be a help. if your camper has 30-amp service it matters not if you connect to a 30-amp or 50-amp receptacle you'll still get the same 110/120-volts. just be sure to use a proper 50-amp/30-amp adapter.
rk911 08/26/14 12:09pm General RVing Issues
RE: Design Layout - Individual Space Class A Resort

I am working on the design and layout of a small class A type resort along the shoreline of a Lake. There will be about 20 spaces. My plan is to layout the spaces where the shoreline is on the right side as you travel along the 12' wide one way access road. The angle of spaces would deflect about 30-degrees with a nose first configuration. The nose of the rig would face the lake - at an angle. The concrete parking space would be 12'x 50'. An additional space area of 12'x 50' would adjoin along the curb side (lake side) of the parking space. The rear two thirds of this area (12'x32')would be concrete for toad parking and picnic table. The front third of this area would be divided equally with a concrete pad (under the awning) and lawn area. Looking for input from the folks that would stay in resorts for the summer months and if the layout I'm considering would need some modifications. Thanks for any input. plant shubbery between the spaces to increase privacy.
rk911 08/26/14 10:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can we tow a Honda CR-V with a Fleetwood 3500 max capacity?

:)
rk911 08/25/14 01:50pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Can we tow a Honda CR-V with a Fleetwood 3500 max capacity?

Okay. Now I get it. You are very kind. I just remembered for the first time in many decades that my grandma used to call me a "dunderhead". Maybe she was right! Thanks to you and to all. Now I understand. you're most welcome and don't beat yourself up. ain't no shame in asking. :)
rk911 08/25/14 12:00pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Can we tow a Honda CR-V with a Fleetwood 3500 max capacity?

But wait! Maybe the light just went on for me. Are you saying even if we put an elephant in the MH it doesn't change the amount we can tow? Susan no. think of it this way. for this example lets say the MH has a GVWR of 25,000-lbs, has a GCWR of 30,000-lbs and actually weighs 24,000-lbs. and we'll say that the hitch has a weight rating of 5,000-lbs and the tow-bar has a weight rating of 10,000-lbs. and finally your pet elephant weighs 2,000-lbs. remember the test...in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following: * the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.) * the weight rating of your tow bar * the weight rating of your hitch without the elephant your maximum weight to safely tow would be 5,000-lbs (the weight rating of your hitch). apply the tests and find the lowest number: - the GCWR (30,000-lbs) minus the actual weight of the MH (24,000-lbs) is 6,000-lbs - the weight rating of the hitch is 5,000-lbs - the weight rating of the tow-bar is 10,000-lbs with the elephant on board the MH now weighs 26,000-lbs. apply the same tests. which test gives the lowest number? 4,000-lbs is the max you can tow (GCWR minus the actual weight of the MH). get the idea? it gets a little more complicated because you shouldn't just weigh the MH with all axles on the scale simultaneously. you really need separate axle weights and then compare them to the GAWR for that axle. the sum of the GAWR's should equal the GVWR; the sum of the actual axle weights will be the total weight of the MH.
rk911 08/25/14 11:33am Dinghy Towing
RE: Class A Towing capacity

I apologize as I'm sure this topic has been discussed in the past! We are looking at buying our 1st Class A motorhome(33ft-36ft) but not sure if we should go diesel or gas. At times we will be pulling 5,000-6,000lb trailer and not sure if the gas RV will be able to handle that much. Pretty much just traveling through flatland and smaller hills(no mountains). Thanks for any advice! a Class III hitch has a max weight load of 5,000-lbs while a Class IV hitch is rated at 10,000-lbs. I don't know of any Class A gassers that have a Class IV hitch but some diesels do.
rk911 08/25/14 11:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can we tow a Honda CR-V with a Fleetwood 3500 max capacity?

Thank you so much. I guess I'd better put all those pots and pans in the darn thing and ask DH to take it to the scales. And make sure we have the correct weight with a toad. Too bad, I really liked the CR-V, but I bet it won't work. Susan again, the CR-V won't add to the weight OF the MH, just the amount of weight the MH can pull. be sure to get separate axle weights on the MH and then compare to the gross axle weight ratings. also detrermine if you have a Class II hitch (3500-lb rating) or a Class III (5000-lb rating).
rk911 08/25/14 11:16am Dinghy Towing
RE: Can we tow a Honda CR-V with a Fleetwood 3500 max capacity?

Hi, everyone. We've narrowed down our choices to a Honda CR-V or a Ford Focus. We like the CR-V best but the weight is right at what can be towed with our 1999 Fleetwood Storm MH. I know DH has calc'd the GVWR, and the CR-V is right at the limit, but I'm worried this will give us a poor experience. I put a lot of pots and pans in the MH. What is a very, very conservative number to put in the calculations as far as the load of stuff in the MH? We're out in the country; no scales around as far as I know, and I don't want to have to load it up with a "pretend" load and ask DH to go weigh it unless I have to. Thanks, everyone. You've been very helpful. towing any vehicle does not add to the GVWR. the GVWR is the maximum amount of weight that the MH chassis can support, including itself. The GCWR (gross combination weight rating) is the total amount of weight the MH can propel, including itself. generally speaking, the GCWR minus the GVWR will give you an idea of how much weight the MH is designed to propel. but in reality the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following: * the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.) * the weight rating of your tow bar * the weight rating of your hitch this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad. Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc. IF your MH as loaded for travel is right at the GVWR (more importantly, is each axle less than or equal to it's GAWR?) there's not much you can do except offload some weight, usually from the rear axle. IF the hitch has a max weight rating of 3500-lbs you're only option will be to use a lighter toad. some folks may tell you to just replace the hitch with one rated at 5000-lbs (Class III) but there is more to it than that. check with a professional about that. good luck.
rk911 08/25/14 10:13am Dinghy Towing
RE: Black & Grey tank chemicals - What do you use ?

I'm using Calgon & deorderizer in the black tank now. What else can I do ? RV Trine after each black tank dump and the same every now and then in the gray.
rk911 08/25/14 07:01am General RVing Issues
RE: New to Dingy Towing - Need help?

Thank you all for the very insightful remarks on this subject. After a lot of research we have come to the conclusion that dolly towing provides the most flexible and cost effective solution to our needs. Although flat tow might be a little easier it seems to be much more costly especially if we trade "toads" after spending $4,000 to $5,000 for set up (that is what we have been quoted by two different RV shops). We have found very few vehicles that we like that can be flat towed and then there is the hassle of running the vehicle every six hours even if we did find one. Its obvious from the number of flat tows that we see out there that many have found a way to deal with all the issues but we just don't see it as a solution to our application. just so you know...Jeeps have no time/distance/mileage restrictions. most models can be flat towed as long as it has a manually selectable neutral position in the transfer case. but if you're going to go with a dolly be sure to know your weights and weight ratings before you commit to buy.
rk911 08/22/14 10:33am Dinghy Towing
RE: New to Dingy Towing - Need help?

We recently traded our Dually and 5th Wheel for a 32' Class C Mini-Motorhome. Of course now we are faced with towing a "toad" and do we go 4 down or dolly? When I try to analyze which is best they come out pretty much even but maybe I am missing something? It seems that the costs are about $1,600 for a dolly vs about $4,500-5,000 for parts and hook up for flat tow. My F-150 is probably a little heavy to tow and my wife's Volvo is completely untowable at least according to her owners manual. We also have a 2004 Buick Century that weighs about 3,400 but the manual says no flat towing. So it appears we either need to trade the wife's Volvo for something that can be flat towed or go the dolly route. It seems to me that the dolly route might be better anyway considering the costs difference and the utility of the dolly for any vehicle that can be dolly towed. Here are some of my questions: 1. When dolly towing are the lights on the dolly sufficient or do we need additional lights on the vehicle being towed? 2. Surge brakes or electric brakes? 3. Do we need a brake controller in the vehicle being towed? 4. If we always go for pull-thru sites is storing the dolly really an issue? 5. Should we can the whole "toad" idea and just get a scooter to carry on the back of the motorhome? We are probably missing something so any help will be appreciated. Thank you, Jerry let me take a whack at this. 1) If by 'sufficient' you mean legal that will depend on the state. while we don't tow on a dolly when we looked into that option back in '03 we decided that having extra magnetic lights on the back of the toad was not a bad thing. 2) I prefer a brake system that utilizes the toad's own power brake system and which is not dependent on a cigarette lighter plug for power. we use the Unified Tow Brake from US Gear. 4) The dolly will always be at least a minor issue. with a long enough pull thru you should be able to back the toad off the dolly and leave the dolly attached to the MH. 5) I wouldn't. Scooters are fine in their place but you may run into situations where you'll wish you had doors and a roof. weight is your enemy and a dolly will add weight. in my opinion before you do anything you need to determine the GVWR, GCWR and GAWR's of your class C. pay special attention to the gross axle weight ratings. then load up your class C as you would for a trip...food, fuel, water, LP, supplies, clothing, pets, people and other stuff...and take it to a certified scale. get individual axle weights. next, compare the individual axle weights to the GAWR for each axle. as long as the axle weights are less then or equal to the GAWR you'll be good to go otherwise you'll need to offload weight from that axle. the sum of the GAWRs should be less than or equal to the GVWR. next, determine the weight rating of your hitch...it's likely to be rated at 5000-lbs but double check. now you're ready to determine how much weight you can safely tow. in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following: * the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.) * the weight rating of your tow bar * the weight rating of your hitch good luck.
rk911 08/21/14 10:07am Dinghy Towing
RE: Am I special or what?

Took our "Bus" in for repair about 3 weeks ago, to find and repair a water leak, and repair air ride in divers seat. Also while it was there, I decided to have the front T.V. replaced and add a satellite dish, and repairs to sound system. I wanted a certain dish system, and gave them a copy off the internet of what I wanted, (a cheaper system)portable, that could be mounted on top. Got a call to pick up the unit, and everything was repaired/installed. Now, does everyone have this problem, or is it just me? The jobs were not done. The leak was not found or repaired, the dish was not installed and was different than what I wanted, it was only portable. Now, this is not the first time we have had this happen. Seems there is a communication problem between me and the service writer and between him and the technicians. Two of the problems are: the dish I wanted is no longer available and they didn't know we had shut valve under the sink to top the leak when we were camping. A simple phone call would have helped them and me. Hopefully we will get everything corrected but can't believe this only happens to me. haven't had that problem. maybe it's because every time I take the MH in for service I provide the shop with detailed, numbered written instructions.
rk911 08/20/14 04:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV INSURANCE

as long as you are not full timing look at state farm. we've been happy with the coverage and rates.
rk911 08/20/14 04:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Listings in Good Sam campground guide

We are finishing up a 12,000 mile trip and used the GS book a lot. We found a lot of campgrounds that were not in the book. The latest campground had been in business since the 70's. It was a nice campground with a very nice pool and a large split lake with catfish in one side and trout in the other. With a nice babbling brook running down one side of the park. My question is how do parks get listed in the book??? Plus why are parks shown as having wi-fi and cable and you have to pay for these amenities.......especially when the per night cost is over the top..... Why are there so many nice parks that are not listed and so many crappy parks that have a good listing? some of the former may not want to pay for the listing or have been overlooked. as for the latter, crappy is in the eye of the beholder.
rk911 08/19/14 07:01am General RVing Issues
RE: Pulling a "Toad" on a Trailer?

As mentioned you need to know all your other MH's weights and where you stand. Including the GCWR & GAWR ... more weight in the rear hitch could put you over. " EVEN " if it's within the towable amount for the hitch. correct. in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following: * the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.) * the weight rating of your tow bar * the weight rating of your hitch
rk911 08/18/14 08:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pulling a "Toad" on a Trailer?

Has anyone tried pulling their "Toad" vehicle on a trailer? I'm talking about a Class A Gasser with the Triton V-10... The reason that I ask is that I have a Subaru Outback.. All Wheel Drive means that I can't tow either 2 down or 4 down. I don't really want to go and purchase a dedicated Toad, but would like to have a transportation option. Looking at potentially buying a 1000lb trailer (weight, not capacity), and loading my 3,386lb (Curb Weight) Outback on it. Total weight: 4386 -- which won't put me over GCWR for the Class A. Do I need electric brakes? Surge brakes? Thoughts? Thanks! unless you've already weighed the MH you're assuming that it weighs at or less than it's GVWR. more importantly you're assuming that the weight on each axle is less than or equal to it's gross axle weight rating. before you do anything I strongly suggest you load up the MH as you would for travel...don't forget pets and people...and get certified weights on each axle. then compare to GAWR.
rk911 08/17/14 01:09pm Class A Motorhomes
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